The question of the need to flush the engine is one of the most acute, relevant and often discussed by motorists. The main purpose of flushing is to clean the engine of various deposits that should not be in it. Accordingly, washing the motor is not only possible, but also necessary. How to flush the engine when changing the oil?

Carrying out flushing only because it was advised in second-rate car services is impractical and pointless at best, and at worst it can cause serious engine damage. This procedure is relevant to carry out in the following cases:

1. The car previously belonged to another owner, and the new one has no idea what kind of engine oil was used. In this case, washing is carried out necessarily, but very carefully and delicately. In most cases, they resort to flushing the engine with new oil.
2. The car owner is changing the lubricant, for example, switching from synthetics to mineral water. Flushing the engine in this case is desirable, but not necessary.
3. Absolutely new car, its owner takes care of the condition of components and assemblies. In this case, flushing procedures are carried out regularly.
4. Turbocharged engine or heavily used car.
5. An old car with deposits under the valve covers and in the pan. The diagnostics carried out will indicate the need for a thorough flushing, and the procedure in this case is carried out with the removal of the cover and pan.

In the first situation, when the new owner of the car does not know which oil was previously used, flushing is mandatory and is associated with the presence of additives in the lubricant. Such additives are not found in cheap and low-quality compounds, respectively, they do not protect the engine from the formation of deposits.

If engine oil is changed when switching from synthetic to mineral water or vice versa, then flushing oil is first poured. In this way, old additives are disposed of: it is likely that they will completely leave the system and will not react with new ones.

Regular flushing of the engine of a new car helps to avoid deposits on parts. If the car is used actively and in difficult conditions, then it is advised to flush the engine even for cars.

Engine requiring urgent flushing

Experts do not advise flushing the engine in only two cases:

• if the car is under warranty (since it does not provide for such procedures, in case of violation, the car can be removed from service);
• if high-quality synthetics or semi-synthetics are poured into the engine.

The difference in flushing gasoline and diesel engines

Diesel engines differ from gasoline counterparts not only in their design, but also in the features of the flushing process and the materials used for this purpose. Only special products are used to flush them: the usual “five-minute” and “long-playing” flushes and other compounds used to clean gasoline engines, in this case, not only will not work, but will also cause irreparable harm.

The oil pump delivers an insufficient amount of oil for the full functioning of the diesel engine. This leads to the need to create a so-called oil wedge, when the rubbing parts of the engine go into a "floating" state. The use of detergent additives, "five minutes" and ordinary oil when flushing can lead to increased friction between parts. The addition of such solutions dilutes the engine oil, due to which it loses all its properties. Deposits that build up on engine walls can vary in composition, so each requires a specific composition to dissolve.

Therefore, when flushing a diesel engine, experts advise car owners to go to a specialized store and purchase compounds designed for power units of this type. In all other respects, the process of cleaning the motor is no different from that carried out with a gasoline engine.

How to flush the motor: oil compounds, cleaners and other chemicals

Today, when changing the oil or when carrying out complex repairs, they resort to four main methods of flushing the engine:

The easiest and least expensive way to keep your car engine running is to change the oil and oil filter regularly.

Flushing oil Liqui Moly

Liqui Moly is one of the most common and popular engine flush products available in a wide range.

Oilsystem Spulung

Oilsystem Spulung is a cleaner that can be used to clean the engine and oil system.

Flushing oil Liqui Moly Oilsystem Spulung for cleaning internal combustion engines

The most effective result is achieved when used in vehicles that are operated:

• in conditions of aggressive and hard driving;
• in regular traffic jams;
• in case of untimely replacement of engine oil.

Separately, it is worth noting that this type of Liqui Moly cleaner can be used for both gasoline and diesel power units. Regular use of the composition allows you to extend the life of the motor and keep its parts and components clean. The manufacturer guarantees the following benefits:

1. The composition gently dissolves deposits and contaminants that have eaten into the walls of the engine without clogging oil filters and pipes.
2. Extends the life of filled engine oil.
3. Additives added to the flushing oil not only clean the engine, but also form a protective film on its walls that reduces the friction of parts.
4. The composition includes additional additives that protect rubber parts from wear and corrosion.
5. Completely exits the system after flushing is complete.

Oilsystem Spulung High Performance

Available in two versions: for gasoline and diesel engines.

Oilsystem Spulung High Performance flushing fluid for petrol and diesel engines

• motor overheating;
• power reduction;
• loss of compression;
• untimely replacement of engine oil;
• use of low-quality gasoline or diesel fuel.

The benefits of flushing oil include:

1. Quick cleaning of the entire system.
2. Neutrality with respect to various materials, including aluminum and rubber, often used in the internal combustion engine system.
3. The oil has an absolutely harmless composition that does not react with other substances.
4. The oil does not pollute the environment.

Oil-Schlamm-Spulug

Flushing fluid Liqui Moly, designed to clean the internal combustion engine from sludge, the causes of which are:

• rare replacement of lubricant;
• frequent and prolonged overheating of the motor;
• ingress of moisture or condensate into the system;
• the use of low-quality oils and fuels.

The manufacturer guarantees that the use of such additives can reduce noise in the engine and eliminate the knocks of hydraulic lifters.

Flushing liquid Oil-Schlamm-Spulug for cleaning internal combustion engines

It is most effective and expedient to use such a washing liquid in cars whose mileage has exceeded 100 thousand kilometers. The advantages of the composition include:

1. Elimination of soot and black deposits on the pipes of the oil system.
2. Elimination of deposits accumulating on engine pistons, especially on ring parts.
3. Cleaning of valves and openings of the oil system.
4. Cleaning the engine walls from lacquer deposits.
5. Prevention of oil starvation and costly repairs in the future.

Pro-Line motorspulung

Cleaning liquid from Liqui Moly, which includes additives that quickly and effectively eliminate contaminants located in the most inaccessible places in the oil system. At the same time, the liquid helps to remove carbon deposits accumulated in the piston group. Often Pro-Line Motorspulung is used to clean a manual transmission.

Flushing liquid Pro-Line Motorspulung with special additives for the removal of hard-to-reach dirt

The advantages of flushing liquid:

1. Reducing the amount of deposits that cannot be completely eliminated from the internal combustion engine.
2. Extending the life of new engine oil.
3. Safe cleaning of the engine thanks to the additives included in the fluid.

HI Gear Flushing Fluid

HI Gear is an American-made flushing composition, which contains special additives that do not harm the engine even with regular use for one year. Effectively removes most of the deposits from candles, valves and from the combustion chamber.

HI Gear flushing composition with special additives for effective cleaning of internal combustion engines

Adding liquid to the fuel increases engine power and reduces exhaust emissions. Since the composition of the product does not include aggressive substances, its frequent use does not harm the motor.

Flushing liquid BBF

BBF is a domestic fuel system flushing agent that effectively removes tar deposits and prevents clogging of fuel filters.

Domestic flushing fluid BBF for the engine

It also helps to remove carbon deposits from the valves and combustion chamber. It has an anti-corrosion effect, eliminates fuel detonation, reduces fuel consumption and exhaust toxicity.

Runway Quality Rinse Additive

Runway is a special composition that cleans the engine oil system from spats, soot and other contaminants.

Runway engine oil additive for car engine flush

Improves heat dissipation and oil circulation, restores the mobility of compression and oil scraper rings. Does not harm gaskets, oil seals and valve stem seals.

Washes - "five minutes"

Flushing - "five-minute" are highly concentrated formulations, sold either in small containers or in bulk canisters (already diluted with conventional motor oil). The use of such products, on the one hand, reassures the car owner, because it is impossible to cause much damage to the engine in 5–10 minutes, and on the other hand, it makes one wonder: what can be washed in such a short time?

Some manufacturers refer to such flushes as full-fledged means for decoking the engine.

Five-minute engine cleaning flushes allow you to quickly clean the engine

The composition of the "five minutes" includes special additives that form a protective film on the seals, protecting the rubber from destruction. At the same time, a rather high concentration of aggressive chemicals removes deposits from metal parts.

Danger of "five-minute" washes

Such flushing agents turned out to be so good that they ruined more than a dozen engines. The diagnosis of all power units was oil starvation, which led to damage to the oil pumps, as well as defects in camshafts, crankshaft knocks and piston wedges. After such a motor, it is almost impossible to restore - only if a major overhaul is carried out.

Consequences of engine oil starvation

The reason for this is low-quality motor oils, which leave deposits in the engine system in the form of paraffin deposits and clots. Expensive lubricants do not sin like this, taking all the precipitation with them when changing, but untimely replacement of low-quality materials can lead to the formation of a mass that is more reminiscent of plasticine in consistency.

Such a mass can accumulate in the oil pan for years without causing much harm to the entire system, however, when using “five-minute” flushes, it begins to erode, the resulting paraffin clots clog all the filters of the fuel and oil systems, the oil receiver, which leads to disastrous consequences for the engine.

Solar oil is a gentle and safe remedy

Flushing the engine with diesel fuel is a common old-fashioned way to clean the power unit from deposits and dirt. Despite the fact that today most car owners are trying to use special auto chemicals, many advise using diesel fuel: this method of washing the engine is the most gentle and safe.

The process of flushing the engine with diesel fuel using a homemade "dropper"

Advantages of the method:

• diesel fuel cleans the engine of slag and pollution;
• extends the life of the engine and the car as a whole;
• protects against the appearance of new deposits;
• creates a favorable environment for the further use of engine oil.

Many car owners do not classify diesel fuel as flushing materials, considering it to be fuel. Despite this, it is a very effective engine cleaner that can even be used to service older ICEs.

How to properly clean the engine with diesel fuel - video

Acetone is a popular car engine cleaner.

The use of acetone is an equally common and used method for flushing an engine.

Acetone is one of the most common engine flushing compounds.

The addition of such a composition to the engine increases the octane number of gasoline, cleans metal parts from soot and deposits, and removes moisture from the fuel. However, experts and car owners with many years of experience in operating a car do not advise pouring a large amount of acetone in order to avoid engine breakdowns.

Kerosene

Flushing the engine with kerosene is a very controversial method: many car owners are of the opinion that it can lead to scuffing. Add a small amount of kerosene to the old oil and leave the engine to idle for a few minutes. After draining the kerosene, it is advisable to completely fill the system with oil and leave the engine to idle again.

Kerosene - no less common composition for cleaning the engine from pollution

The disadvantage of this method is that kerosene, due to its fluidity, can enter the intake manifold. The subsequent start of the engine with kerosene in the manifold can lead to serious damage.

Kerosene washes away all contaminants and slag formations in the fuel and oil systems, but it does not dissolve them, which is why all the dirt remains in the oil, in a suspended state. Accordingly, after starting the engine, this suspension will go through the system and can clog the filters and oil receiver.

transformer oil

Cleaning with transformer oil is the oldest method of washing engines, which was mainly used on GAZ-51 cars.

Transformer oil - the old way to flush an engine

Today, some car owners resort to it, claiming that the composition washes away all engine deposits in a few minutes and prevents the appearance of new ones. However, experts do not recommend using transformer oil, arguing that it can damage the internal combustion engine.

Solvent

The engine can be washed with a solvent both in service conditions and independently. To carry out the procedure with your own hands, you need to purchase the tool itself and additional tools - a fuel filter, hoses and a fuel pump.

Flushing the engine with solvent is a rare cleaning of the internal combustion engine

When flushing in this way, it should be remembered that the cleaning compound can adversely affect engine oil, despite the fact that manufacturers say that the properties of the lubricant are preserved even after solvent enters it. For this reason, such flushing is carried out only before changing the oil. In addition, the solvent can lead to the failure of spark plugs, so after using it, the entire kit is changed.

Petrol

Another way to flush the engine, which, despite its effectiveness, is often perceived with hostility by car owners. In this case, several liters of gasoline are poured into the engine and left for 10-30 minutes, then the fuel is drained and a new portion is poured. The procedure is repeated until the drained gasoline is clean.

Under no circumstances should the engine be started during such flushing!

The remaining gasoline in the system evaporates without mixing with the new oil and without causing any harm to the internal combustion engine. Experts do not advise using this method, and if you resort to it, then only if you switch to another type of engine oil.

Engine flush process

Flushing the engine is a sensitive procedure, during which you can seriously damage the power unit and the oil and fuel systems. Before proceeding with it, it is necessary to consult with a specialist in a car service and diagnose the vehicle. Such a check allows you to assess the condition of the car and the need to change the engine oil.

Engine flushing is carried out as follows:

It is pointless to flush the engine without changing the oil filters: all the carbon deposits and dirt that will be washed off will accumulate in the filter, and when new engine oil is filled in, they will again enter the system. Therefore, after carrying out this procedure, it is advised to change all filters in the system.

Engine flush - video

Gentle flush - a gentle way to flush the engine

The most preferred option for cleaning the engine from accumulated deposits and soot. With a gentle method, special flushing agents are poured into the engine, and then the car travels 100-150 kilometers. During this time, the flushing will have time to gently and carefully clean the engine without causing any harm to it.

Gentle engine flush - pouring special compounds

After the desired effect is achieved, the old oil is drained, the oil filter is changed and new grease is poured. The result of such a procedure will be obvious: the engine will start to run softer, the car will become more dynamic and obedient.

Fast engine flush

It is carried out in cases where engine cleaning and oil change must be carried out immediately, however, it is not the most preferable and safe option. They resort to it when there is metal shavings in the engine oil, when it is heavily contaminated, or in other situations when it is impossible to carry out a gentle flush.

Fast flushing of the engine is carried out by filling flushing fluids

The disadvantage of fast flushing is the negative effect it has on engine parts. In its effect, it is very similar to the result of using acid: it not only destroys carbon deposits and dirt, but also removes a thin layer from parts. Such regular exposure, of course, will not lead to anything good, therefore, quick flushing is resorted to in the most extreme cases.

Do-it-yourself engine decarbonization

Car engine decarbonization is a method of cleaning the system from carbon deposits formed as a result of operation. In car services, it is called a major overhaul of the internal combustion engine and, accordingly, they charge round sums for it. However, you can do the decarbonization with your own hands: the main thing is to know what exactly and how to do it.

Consequences of the carried out decoking of the engine

There are several ways to deal with deposits, the most effective of which are:

• cleaning with water or steam;
• cleaning using special compounds - for example, "Lavra";
• cleaning with a mixture of kerosene and acetone.

Such procedures can be carried out with your own hands, without resorting to the help of specialists.

Myths about engine decarbonization

For all the time of its existence, this procedure has acquired a huge number of prejudices and myths, the most common of which are:

1. Using a cleaning agent will give the pistons a shine. This is far from the case: of course, it is possible to achieve mirror purity, but no one will guarantee that the car will then start.
2. You can decarbonize without changing the engine oil. One of the most dangerous misconceptions: after cleaning the engine, the oil must be changed without fail, otherwise such a procedure is fraught with breakdown of the internal combustion engine.
3. It is impossible to carry out decarbonization on your own. The whole procedure can be carried out in an hour and a half without much effort on the part of the car owner.

Method for cleaning engine parts with water

The following materials are needed to decoke the engine with water:

• dropper;
• tee;
• hose;
• distilled water.

The dropper is connected to a bottle of distilled water, after which the resulting system is connected by a hose to the BDZ. The liquid from the bottle should only flow when the suction is on, and the dripping frequency should be about three drops per second.

Carrying out engine decarbonization with water

After installing an impromptu dropper, the engine is idling, after which the bottle is attached under the hood and the car is driven for several kilometers. In most cases, the car is very sluggish at first, but then accelerates significantly.

The first effect should appear after 100-150 kilometers with a dropper. To achieve a complete cleaning of the engine, it is necessary to drive with a bottle of water at least 500 kilometers. A side effect of this decoking is a reduction in fuel consumption.

Is it possible to decoke the engine with water - video

Cleaning the engine with Laurel before changing the oil

Laurel is a special liquid for decarbonizing. You can get it at any automotive store for a bargain price.

Special liquid Lavr for engine decoking

Decarbonization with this tool is carried out only before changing the oil and consists of the following steps:

1. All spark plugs are removed.
2. The valves are set to one position. You can use a piece of thick wire for more accurate measurements.
3. About 45 ml of Lavra is poured into each cylinder.
4. The candles are back. Inside, it is desirable to create conditions similar to a steam bath.
5. The fluid stays in the engine for 4-6 hours.
6. After the specified time, the candles are unscrewed and the starter is started. It is advisable to carry out three or four starts lasting 10–15 seconds with the accelerator pedal fully depressed. This removes excess liquid.
7. All parts return to their place, the engine starts.
8. The used oil is drained from the system, everything is thoroughly washed and new oil is poured in, air and oil filters are installed.

To evaluate the change in compression, it is enough to drive about one to two kilometers. If everything remains the same, then the problem lies in the engine seals. And if the compression increased, then the decarbonization was carried out successfully.

We decoke the engine with Laurels - video

Decarbonizing with a mixture of acetone and kerosene

A similar composition is used to decoke the engine in the most extreme cases, when the car's mileage is more than 400 thousand kilometers and the thrust is completely gone.

Decarbonization of the engine with acetone and kerosene

Acetone and kerosene are mixed in a ratio of 2:1. For a 4-cylinder engine, 300 ml of mixture will be enough.

Before decoking, it is advisable to warm up the motor and cool it down a bit - it should be warm, but not hot, otherwise the acetone will start to boil.

Decoking is carried out very simply:

1. Candles are unscrewed, the prepared mixture is poured into their holes.
2. Then the candles are returned to their place, and in this form the engine is left for 10-12 hours.
3. After the specified time, the mixture of kerosene and acetone is blown out of the motor by starting the starter.

Before proceeding with the distillation of the mixture from the engine, several conditions must be met:

1. Any devices and wires that can spark when starting the starter are turned off.
2. The engine is lined with rags - they will protect other components and parts from dirt.
3. A test drive at high speeds is being carried out.

After the decarbonization, the engine oil must be changed, and it is advisable to do this several times. New filters are also installed.

Engine decarbonization with kerosene and acetone - video

Risk of decarbonization

Cleaning the engine from soot allows not only to eliminate all impurities, slag and dirt, but also washes away a thin oil film on the cylinder walls. The first start-up of the engine after decoking occurs almost “dry”, which can lead to rapid wear of the piston rings and to the so-called scuffing. The use of special compounds will help to avoid this - the same Lavra, which creates a thin protective film on the cylinder walls, which reduces the re-formation of soot and prevents scuffing.

The nuance of the decarbonization is the location of the cylinders. It is easiest to carry it out on conventional in-line internal combustion engines, but in the case of opposed or V-shaped valves, the procedure becomes more complicated: access to spark plugs in such engines is more difficult, and the piston must be almost completely covered with liquid.

The biggest and most unpleasant disadvantage of this procedure is its duration. Of course, you can resort to a quick engine flush, but it is not always safe for combustion chambers and cylinders and often cannot completely remove all deposits.

In general, flushing a car engine is a very effective procedure. However, it is only useful when it is really needed. In other situations, flushing “for prevention” and “for the beauty of the engine” can lead to not the most pleasant consequences.

Good afternoon. My name is Michael.

During the operation of the car, carbon compounds are formed on the internal surfaces of the engine and in the channels of the lubrication system. Their appearance is inevitable, and this problem cannot be solved simply by using high quality engine oil. Also, do not forget that when draining old, used oil, some of it remains inside the engine. What does this mean for the car?

When you pour new oil into the engine, the additives contained in it will immediately begin to interact with deposits and contaminants. This can lead to various negative impacts, including:

• partial clogging of the oil filter;
• premature production of an additive package, loss of performance properties of recently filled oil.

How to be in this situation? It is necessary to use special flushing agents, thanks to which the engine will run efficiently and smoothly after changing the engine oil.

How often should flushing be done? This should be done every time you change your oil or oil filter.

How to choose an engine flush? The obvious option is to use fresh engine oil. In this case, everything is simple: you need to drain the old oil and fill in new. After the engine has been running for a while, the oil used as a flush is drained and fresh again. This approach provides a good result, but it has a serious drawback - high cost. Using oil as an engine flush means you pay twice for it.

The next option is to use a special flushing oil. Such a flush is poured into the car engine after draining the old oil, after which it needs to run for about 15-20 minutes at idle. Usually this product is created on a mineral basis, which makes it affordable. Then you change the filter and drain the used engine flush, replacing it with fresh oil. Unfortunately, such products cannot be drained completely, some part inevitably remains in the internal cavities, mixes with fresh oil, worsens its viscosity and other performance properties.

The best option is flushing, which is called the "five-minute", as well as other similar products. This tool is a set of additives that is poured into old oil, mixed with it and effectively removes contaminants and deposits formed in the engine. This wash has many advantages. She:

• restores the mobility of compression and oil scraper piston rings;
• improves heat dissipation;
• minimizes engine wear, increases its resource;
• makes it easier to drain old oil.

Separately, it is worth noting the safety of such flushes for rubber seals, oil seals, valve stem seals.

In some cases, it is necessary to use the so-called professional flushes that can cope with the most difficult tasks of cleaning engines from contamination. How are they different from regular products? In professional washing, the content of active ingredients is increased. They are recommended for use in the following cases:

• the constant use of mineral oils of insufficient quality (flushing should be used at least once every three oil changes);
• severe overheating of the engine and the resulting formation of soot;
• frequent use of fuel of dubious quality;
• obvious engine malfunctions - poor start-up, loss of compression, smoke, and so on;
• significant excess of the oil change interval;
• constant strong knock of hydraulic lifters caused by clogging of the oil supply line.

For washing heavily worn engines, special products are used that are designed for effective and at the same time gentle cleaning. The fact is that during cleaning, large fragments of deposits can form that can harm interacting parts. The use of special flushes allows deposits and contaminants to be transferred into low-dispersion phases that cannot damage the engine.

High quality washes from Liqui Moly

Liqui Moly manufactures high quality products to help control engine deposits and contaminants. They make oil changes easier and more efficient.

The following washes are examples:

• Engine Flush - a fast-acting substance, "five-minute", with which you can flush the engine during a regular oil change;
• Oilsystem Spulung Light is a gentle oil system cleaner, easy to use and extremely effective;
• Oil-Schlamm-Spulung - a product of enhanced action, which makes it possible to flush the engine with strong contamination and get rid of sludge formed in the system after prolonged overheating;
• Oilsystem Spulung High Performance Diesel is a powerful cleaner designed to remove contaminants from a diesel engine.

Every Liqui Moly rinse is carefully formulated, tested and proven to work. A wide range allows you to find a solution for each specific case.

A dirty motor, stained with dirt and oil, is not only unpleasant in appearance. Contaminants on the engine crankcase and its attachments can lead to serious negative consequences. In the article we will talk about engine cleaners from oil and dirt and appreciate how important it is to keep the engine clean.

Why do you need to clean the engine?

There are several negative consequences that can occur in the event of critical engine contamination.

1. Deterioration of heat transfer. Initially, when designing the engine, part of the heat removal is laid down for the natural cooling of the motor by ambient air. And with the expectation of this, the cooling system is already being designed. The so-called "coat" of oil and dirt reduces the thermal conductivity of the crankcase. Reducing the intensity of heat removal from the crankcase will at least cause an increase in its average operating temperature by several degrees, and on hot days it can lead to overheating.
2. The likelihood of a fire. Mud and oil deposits on the engine can ignite from a small spark and grow into a serious fire in a matter of seconds.

1. Negative impact on attachments. Oil and dirt on drive belts, wiring, fittings and attachments can cause these items to malfunction.
2. The appearance of an unpleasant smell in the cabin. The heated oil on the crankcase creates an unpleasant odor that penetrates the passenger compartment and causes discomfort.
3. Unpleasant appearance of the motor, difficulties in the production of repair work under the hood.

Therefore, washing the engine is not just a cosmetic operation, but an important procedure.

An overview of popular products for cleaning internal combustion engines from oil and dirt

There are quite a few different chemical engine cleaners on the Russian market. Consider the most popular of them.

1. Hi-Gear Engine Shine, Foaming Degreaser. One of the most popular means in the Russian Federation. Available in 454 ml bottles. It is a foam emulsion, a mixture of various penetrating dispersants capable of dissolving even old oil deposits. Apply to a warm engine, rinse with water. Not aggressive towards plastic and rubber. It has positive feedback from motorists in terms of efficiency. More expensive than most other engine cleaners.
2. ABRO Masters Engine Degreaser. This cleaner is a 450 ml pressurized spray. Consists of surfactants, alkaline dispersants and light solvents. It is sprayed on the engine, after a short wait (impregnation and splitting of mud deposits) it is washed off with water. It has a peculiar smell, which some motorists call unpleasant. However, after a few hours after processing the motor, this smell almost completely disappears.

1. Grass Engine Cleaner. Also a popular remedy in the Russian Federation. It is distinguished by its low cost and at the same time good efficiency. It copes well with fresh oil smudges and small deposits of dust. Has a large amount of surfactants in the composition. Effectively removes old deposits. Sold as a ready-to-use product in 500 ml containers with a mechanical spray or as a concentrate. The spray is applied in a non-contact way to the engine, the concentrate is mixed with water and can be applied with contact and non-contact. In terms of the ratio of price and washing abilities, motorists recognize it as one of the best offers.

1. Runway Engine Cleaner. Aerosol engine cleaner, available in 650 ml metal cans. Has an average efficiency. With a low price among such products, it copes well with relatively fresh pollution. Not suitable for removing dried oil and dust crusts.
2. Foam Engine Cleaner 3ton. Inexpensive and effective tool. It has a subjectively pleasant smell. Efficiency and price are average for the market.

These are the most common products in the chemical engine cleaner category. There are several folk remedies for cleaning the engine of contaminants. However, not all of them are safe and accessible to ordinary motorists. Therefore, we will not consider them here.

Which purifier is better to choose?

A noteworthy fact: most Motor Cleaners on the market work with approximately the same efficiency. Better than others, according to motorists, Hi-gear and Grass work. However, much depends on the nature of the pollution and the personal, not always objective, assessment of car owners.

For household, one-time cleaning of the motor from slightly abundant contaminants, it is better to use inexpensive foam sprayers, such as 3ton, Runway or ABRO. They do a good job of cleaning light dust deposits or smudges of working fluids that have not had time to dry.

To remove more serious contaminants, it is better to use a more expensive tool, for example, from Hi-Gear. This tool has a more powerful penetrating and splitting ability. But it is not able to cope with chronic raids.

It is easier to remove abundant dirt using the contact method. To facilitate this task, it is better to use a spray or apply a contact (brush or brush) cleaner. In this situation, the Grass Engine Cleaner is an excellent solution in terms of price and effectiveness.

When cleaning the motor from dirt and oil, do not forget about safety precautions. Cover cavities vulnerable to liquids with rags or plastic wrap. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Work in a well ventilated area. And most importantly - always carefully apply the product and think about whether the treatment of a particular area with a cleaner will harm the motor.

The formation of soot and coke on engine parts and the internal surfaces of its blocks is a natural process that cannot be avoided. At the same time, the appearance of soot increases the wear of the power unit and contributes to its failure. Is there a way to remove deposits without disassembling the engine? Certainly! Next, we'll show you how to do it.

1 When to remove carbon deposits - the first symptoms

First of all, let's figure out how to determine that the engine needs to be cleaned of soot formed inside the cylinders and on its other parts. Fortunately, the problem manifests itself by the occurrence of the following symptoms:

• an unheated engine does not start well;
• after starting, strong smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe, the engine troit for some time;
• exhaust gases have a specific smell of burning;
• the dynamics of the car decreases, the engine “pulls” poorly;
• there is an excessive consumption of fuel;
• when the ignition is turned off, the fuel in the cylinders continues to ignite for some time, and strong vibrations occur. This phenomenon is called glow ignition, since the ignition of the combustible mixture occurs from hot soot, and not from a spark;
• The engine gets very hot.

If these signs appear, do not delay cleaning the motor, since the presence of soot can lead to more unpleasant consequences, such as burnt valves, failure of the connecting rod and piston group. To prevent deposits from forming on engine parts for as long as possible, use high-quality synthetic or semi-synthetic oils and be sure to change them on time.

2 We start with the combustion chamber - flushing the piston system

Cleaning the engine with chemical compounds is of two types:

• soft - involves the addition of various additives and cleaning agents to the fuel;
• hard - carried out by flushing the combustion chambers.

Soft washing can only be useful as a preventive measure, so we will not consider it. If you need to wash off the carbon deposits that have accumulated in the engine in large quantities (you have noticed that the above symptoms have appeared), a tough cleaning is required. To produce it, you need a special decoking liquid. Often it is sold as a set with compressed air in a canister, a syringe and a tube. In this case, you will not need any other devices. If only liquid is included, the syringe and compressed air must be purchased separately.

We start flushing by warming up the engine to a temperature of at least 70 degrees. Then you need to unscrew all the candles, and also disconnect the central wire from the distributor. Be sure to label the high voltage spark plug wires so you don't forget the order in which they are connected to the cylinders. Next, you need to turn the crankshaft so that all the pistons are approximately at the same level. To do this, turn the pulley nut (below in the photo) or the drive wheel, after jacking it up.

Then it is necessary to pour liquid for decoking into each cylinder using a syringe and tube. The volume of fluid required for each cylinder is indicated by manufacturers in the instructions. Next, tighten the spark plugs and leave the engine for a few hours. If the combustion chambers are heavily coked, wait 12 hours (periodically it is advisable to crank the crankshaft).

Next, pump out the remaining fluid from the cylinders using a tube and syringe. Then blow out each cylinder with compressed air. Then you should press the gas pedal all the way and crank the crankshaft with the starter for five to ten seconds. At the end of the work, connect all the ignition wires and start the engine. Let the motor run for five or ten minutes. At first, slight smoke is possible, but do not be alarmed, this will burn out the cleaning agent that remains in the engine.

Keep in mind that the above operation allows you to get rid of carbon deposits only in the combustion chambers. However, deposits also appear on other engine parts. To get rid of them, it is necessary to flush the lubrication system.

3 Cleaning the lubrication system - let's not leave carbon deposits a chance

Flushing the lubrication system can be done in several ways:

• additive "five-minute";
• oil "five minutes";

The easiest way to flush the engine is the so-called five-minutes. If an additive is used for these purposes, then it is simply added to the engine, and then the engine runs for 5 minutes at idle, after which the old oil with the additive is drained, the filter is changed, and new fluid is poured. Approximately the engine is also flushed with five-minute oil, but it must not be mixed with old oil. Those. first you need to drain the old oil and only after that fill in the flushing oil. The motor should run on it for 5 minutes in idle mode, after which the flush is drained and new grease is poured. Please note that in no case can you ride a five-minute ride.

A better result can be achieved with flushing oil, on which the car must drive about a hundred kilometers. This composition is poured in place of the old oil. Please note that this lubricant must be driven in break-in mode, as it has weak protective properties. Then the flushing oil is drained and the usual one is poured.

As you can see, it is not at all difficult to clean the engine of carbon deposits, at the same time, this procedure can significantly extend the life of the internal combustion engine. She should not be neglected!

During the operation of the car engine, on its valves, the piston crown, on the walls of the combustion chambers and other places, carbon deposits are gradually formed. It is almost impossible to avoid this process, but, under certain conditions, carbon deposits are formed especially intensively. The reason for this may be the use, incorrect adjustment of the carburetor, poor filtering of the air entering the carburetor, engine malfunctions, etc.

What is soot and its consequences

Carbon deposits are unburned particles of fuel, dust, or engine oil that have entered the combustion chambers. A particular danger is carbon deposits, which are deposited in the form of a thick layer. The fact is that it has a rather low thermal conductivity, and a thick crust of soot can significantly impair the process of removing excess heat from engine parts, thereby disrupting the normal thermal regime of its operation.

At the same time, engine parts begin to wear out much more intensively, which reduces their service life. Also, carbon deposits in the combustion chambers can cause such a dangerous phenomenon for the engine as glow ignition, when the fuel-air mixture ignites not from a spark plug at a given moment, but randomly, from overheated carbon particles, which increases the risk of breakdown engine.

How to remove soot

It should be noted that in most cases, under conditions that are close to ideal, carbon deposits in the engine are removed spontaneously, for this you need to periodically drive a car for about 100 km at high speed, after filling it with high-quality gasoline. When the engine is running in such an intensive mode, carbon deposits will be removed. Of course, it will not be possible to remove large carbon deposits, especially old ones, in this way, and, in this case, you can resort to other methods that do not involve disassembling the engine.

Plaque removal solution

One of these methods can be called chemical, and it is desirable to coincide with the cleaning of carbon deposits by this method for the next change of engine oil. You need to prepare a solution by mixing two parts of acetone, one part of kerosene and one part of motor oil. This solution is poured into all engine cylinders through the spark plug holes. Next, the spark plugs are installed in place, and the engine crankshaft is rotated several times, for example, using the starting handle. The solution remains in the cylinders for a day, after which the spark plugs are unscrewed, and the engine crankshaft is again turned about 10 times in order to “blow out” the cylinders. After that, the candles are washed with gasoline, dried and installed on the engine. Next, the engine oil in the engine is replaced, as well as the oil filter, in the usual manner, in accordance with the instructions in the car's operating instructions. The car is refueled with quality fuel, and travel at high speed on a good road. Usually, after running the first 100 km, carbon deposits are removed from the engine almost completely. It should be taken into account that in this case the engine oil can be heavily contaminated with soot, and it will be necessary to change it again after a run of 500 km. since the removal of soot.

rubber tube method

There are other ways to remove soot. For example, you need to insert a needle from an injection system into a rubber tube that runs from a vacuum regulator to a carburetor, with a tube from the same system put on it. Dip the other end of this tube into a small container of water. Due to the vacuum formed in the vacuum regulator, water from the tank will be sucked into the carburetor, and along with the fuel mixture will enter the engine cylinders. It is better to do this operation on a running engine so that there are no difficulties with starting it. Water vapor will help soften carbon deposits and quickly remove them from the engine; it is enough to let the engine run for about 10 minutes “on the water”.

Cleaning method with high-performance additives

If you have no time to deal with solutions and use different tubes, you can always use auto chemical goods from Germany, in full range, presented in the window of our store. You will always find the right fuel additive and once and for all get rid of the problems associated with soot and deposits in your car engine. Additives have a very high detergency, without any problems they can cope with even the most polluted areas for gasoline systems.