Toyota Carolla II and others are equipped with 4E type engines. To replace the timing belt on this type of engine, you can do without special tools. It is enough to have a standard set of tools and a great desire. Below is information on replacing the timing belt on a 4E-FE engine.

Vehicle: Toyota Tercel EL41
Year of release: 1992.
Mileage: more than 70.000 km.

We remove the belts from the generator, air conditioner and power steering pump. We unscrew the four bolts of the pulley. We remove the pulley. Then we unscrew the central bolt of the drive pulley.

It is necessary to make sure that the crankshaft does not rotate, otherwise it will not work to unscrew anything. On the box can be blocked by switching speeds. But what if the car is automatic? There is a slot on the machines, which is located behind the engine in the flywheel and serves to remove the converter (fluid coupling). The fastening bolts are unscrewed with a special tool. But we got out with an improvised collar.

The drive pulley is easily screwed using a mounting lever, or using a special puller.

When removing the timing belt cover and fasteners, be careful not to break the plastic. Then remove the "sloth", the tension roller and the timing belt itself.

Install the drive pulley with the new belt as shown in the diagram. Move the pulley axis with a slot horizontally upwards.

Slightly move the tension roller to the left. When installing the belt, loosen the idler axle bolt. Rotate the crankshaft a quarter of a turn to remove any slack in the timing belt. Then tighten the bolt, turn the crankshaft pulley two turns to check the stability of the belt. Then replace the timing belt cover.

We return the belts of the generator, air conditioner and hydraulic steering drive to their place.

This time everything turned out without the use of any tricked-out devices, almost manually. The whole thing took about an hour and a half. Like this.

Toyota 4E-FE - 4-cylinder 16-valve engine made in Japan. The working volume of this motor is 1.3 liters. Fuel - gasoline (AI-92, AI-95). The engine was produced from 1989 to 1999.

For the motor, a 5-bearing crankshaft was selected with special counterweights to unload the bearings. At the assembly stage, holes are made in the shaft to supply oil to the rubbing structural elements. Aluminum is used for the cylinder head. The spark plugs are placed in the inner cavity of the cylinders. The crankshaft drives the camshaft through the timing belt. Replacing the timing belt 4E-FE is mandatory when passing 70-80 thousand kilometers. The cylinder block is made of cast iron.

Generations 4E-FE

ATTENTION! Found a completely simple way to reduce fuel consumption! Don't believe? An auto mechanic with 15 years of experience also did not believe until he tried it. And now he saves 35,000 rubles a year on gasoline!

Generation	1	2	3
Year of release	1989-1996	1994	1997-1999
Volume	1.3 liters
Power	88 HP	74 hp	82-85 HP
Torque	117 Nm at 5200 rpm	118 Nm at 4400 rpm
Compression ratio	9.6:1	9.6:1
Cylinder diameter	74 mm	74.3 mm
piston stroke	77.4 mm	77.4 mm

The first generation 4E-FE engines were produced from 1989 to 1996. They were installed in the Toyota Starlet and Corolla models. Their maximum power reached 88 hp. at 6600 rpm and 117 N/m at 5200 rpm. The compression ratio was 9.6:1. In parallel, a more powerful analogue was being produced.

The characteristics of the second generation 4E-FE have been significantly changed. First of all, it touched power. The motor was put into operation in 1996. He gave out power of 88 hp. at 5500 rpm. Thanks to the new collector installation system and their mode of operation, the manufacturer was able to significantly reduce emissions of exhaust gases into the atmosphere.

The third generation of engines was installed on the Toyota Corolla and Starlet brands from 1997 to 1999. Their maximum power was 82 hp. For installation in the Starlet model range, a modernization was carried out, which contributed to an increase in power to 85 hp. The main difference from the second generation was a modified intake manifold. In 1999, the production of 4E-FE was completely stopped.

Where did you install

For 10 years, the motor has been part of such cars:

• Starlet;
• Tercel;
• Corolla
• paseo;
• Cynos;
• corsa.

The 4E-FE engine did not find popularity in Russia and the world. The reason for this was a small resource and low power, limiting the scope of its use.

1. Remove the alternator drive belt by loosening the axle bolt nut and adjusting bolt.

2. Turn out spark plugs, having disconnected high-voltage wires.

3. Remove the cylinder head cover.

4. Remove the #2 timing belt cover and gasket by removing the four bolts.

5. Set the piston of the 1st cylinder to the TDC of the compression stroke,

A) Turn the crankshaft pulley and align it with the alignment mark "O" on the timing belt cover No. 1.

Note: Always turn the crankshaft clockwise.

b) Check that the timing hole of the camshaft sprocket is aligned with the timing mark of the bearing cover. If not, turn the crankshaft one revolution (360°).

6. Remove the crankshaft pulley by removing the pulley bolt.

7. Remove timing belt cover #3.

8. Remove the #1 timing belt cover and gasket by unscrewing the three bolts.

9. Remove the timing belt guide.

10. Remove the timing belt and tension roller.

When reusing the timing belt, draw a direction arrow on the belt and mark the pulleys as shown.

A) Remove the tensioner spring.

b) Loosen the tension roller bolt and push it to the left as far as possible, and then temporarily tighten the bolt.

B) Remove the timing belt.

D) Unscrew the tension roller bolt and remove the roller.

11. Remove the intermediate pulley by unscrewing the bolt.

12. Remove a gear pulley of a cranked shaft.

If the pulley cannot be removed by hand, use two screwdrivers.

Note: Lay the rags as shown in the illustration to prevent damage.

13. Holding the camshaft with one wrench, unscrew the pulley mounting bolt with another wrench and remove the camshaft sprocket.

Note: Be careful not to damage the cylinder head with the wrench.

14. Turn away a nut and remove a pulley of the oil pump.
1. Install the oil pump pulley

A) Align the pulley and shaft profiles and install the pulley.

b) Tighten the oil pump pulley nut.

Tightening torque ........................ 36 N m

2. Install the camshaft sprocket.

A) Align the camshaft guide pin with the groove in the pulley and install the pulley.

b) Temporarily tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt.

c) While holding the camshaft with one wrench, tighten the pulley set bolt with another wrench.

Torque.
50 N m

3. Install the crankshaft sprocket.

A) Align the dowel pin on the crankshaft with the recess in the pulley.

b) Install the crankshaft sprocket, belt guide inward.

C) Turn the crankshaft by the pulley bolt and align the timing marks on the crankshaft toothed pulley and the oil pump housing.

4. Install the intermediate pulley by tightening the bolt. (M3=27 Nm).

5. Temporarily install the tension roller and spring,

A) Install the roller and bolt. Do not tighten the bolt.

b) Install the tension spring.

B) Press the roller to the left as far as possible and tighten the bolt

Remove oil or water from the crankshaft pulley, oil pump pulley, idler pulley and idler pulley.

The engine must be hungry.

6. Install the timing belt on the crankshaft sprocket, oil pump iiikhr, idler pulley and idler pulley. Note: When reusing the timing belt, align the marks made during removal and install the belt orienting it in the direction of the arrow indicating the direction of rotation of the crankshaft.

7. Install the timing belt guide facing out.

8. Install timing belt cover #1.

A) Install the gasket on the timing belt cover.

b) Install the timing belt cover by tightening the three bolts.

9. Install the crankshaft pulley.

a) Align the pulley key with the pulley keyway and install the pulley.

b) Tighten the pulley bolt.

Tightening torque ..................... 152 N.m

10. Set the piston of the 1st cylinder to B MT of the compression stroke.

A) Turn the crankshaft pulley and align it with the alignment mark "O" on the cover No. 1 of the timing belt.

b) Rotate the camshaft and align the camshaft sprocket hole with the bearing cover alignment space.

11. Install the timing belt. Note: When reusing the timing belt, first align the marks on the belt and camshaft sprocket.

Install the timing belt and check that there is tension between the crankshaft sprocket, oil pump sprocket and camshaft sprocket.

12. Check the valve timing.

A) Loosen the idler pulley bolt until the pulley moves under the action of the spring.

b) Rotate the crankshaft pulley two turns from TDC to TDC. Note: Always turn the crankshaft clockwise.

c) Check that the timing marks have been aligned on each pulley as shown in the figure.

If the timing marks are not aligned, remove the timing belt and reinstall it.

D) Tighten the tensioner pulley #1 bolt.

Tightening torque ........................19 N.m

13. Install timing belt cover #3.

14. Install the #2 timing belt cover by installing the gasket and tighten the four bolts.

15. Install the cylinder head cover

A) Apply sealant to the cylinder head as shown.

b) Install the gasket on the cylinder head cover,

B) Install the cylinder head cover and tighten the five nuts.

Tightening torque .......................... 7 N.m

16. Install spark plugs and connect high voltage wires.

17. Install the alternator drive belt by tightening the axle bolt nut and adjusting bolt.

18. If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning and/or power steering, install the drive belts.

19. Adjust drive belts. Adjust the deflection of the drive belt by pressing the belts at the points indicated in the figure with a force of 98 N

Drive Belt Deflection: New Belt:

A..................................................3.5-4.5 mm

H.................................9.0 - 10.5 mm

C..............................5.5 - 7.0 mm

D..................................... 8.0-10.0 mm

belt used

A.................................................5.0-6.5 mm

H.................................12.0 - 15.0 mm

C..............................7.5 - 9.5 mm

D.................................9.0 - 11.0 mm

If necessary, adjust the deflection of the drive belt.

After installing the belt, run the engine for 5 minutes and recheck the belt deflection.

. 1 - air duct, 2 - intake manifold, 3 - gasket, 4 - throttle body, 5 - upper intake manifold bracket, 6 - distributor assembly with high voltage wires, 7 - vacuum hose, 8 - engine lift bracket #2, 9 - cylinder head cover, 10 - gasket, 11 - intake camshaft, 12 - bearing cover No. 4 of the camshaft, 13 - bearing cover No. 3 of the camshaft, 14 - adjusting washer, 15 - pusher, 16 - crackers, 17 - spring plate, 18 - valve spring, 19 - valve stem seal, 20 - spring seat, 21 - valve, 22 - segment plug, 23 - thermostat housing, 24 - coolant bypass hose, 25 - exhaust manifold heat shield, 26 - exhaust manifold , 27 - timing belt cover No. 3, 28 - cylinder head gasket, 29 - engine lift bracket No. 1, 30 - insulator, 31 - cylinder head, 32 - spacer, 33 - gasket, 34 - fuel manifold assembly with injectors, 35 - valve guide, 36 - fuel supply hose, 37 - exhaust camshaft, 38 - oil seal, 39 - bearing cover No. 1 of the camshaft, 40 - camshaft gear leaf spring, 41 - camshaft auxiliary gear shaft, 42 - retaining ring, 43 - spring washer, 44 - inlet camshaft plug, 45 - camshaft bearing cap No. 2, 46 - gasket, 47 - intake manifold bracket, 48 - oil filler cap, 49 - forced air system hose crankcase ventilation, 50 - gasket, 51 - exhaust air bypass valve, 52 - exhaust air bypass valve (ACV), 53 - O-ring, 54 - EGR vacuum modulator, 55 - EGR pipe assembly, 56 - EGR valve, 57 - gasket.

Question: Replacing a timing belt with a 4E-FE (photo report)

Please do not kick for inaccuracies and spelling errors. Because there is very little time. PhotoShop did not save intermediate files. I had to lay out the drawings in draft form.
I did everything in the viewing hole. But you can do this operation without a pit by removing the front right wheel. In the pit, it will also be better to remove it, it will be more convenient.
And so the comics begin.

Miniatures

Answer:

Very educational!! My respect!!

Question: Need advice on converting 4E carb to injector

There is a 4e engine on the starlet Ep-82 mechanka, I want to make an injection engine out of it, i.e. convert to 4E-Fe. Is it realistic to do this, i.e. buy an intake manifold, a fuel rail with nozzles, a braid with a computer, etc. and modify it to injector. :)
Are there any significant differences in the blocks (4E from 4E-FE), maybe some additional sensors are screwed into the head?
Has anyone done this already? :)

Answer:

It will get on the box, for wiring work the exact same as 4e-fe.
In general, then put FTE, well, or FHE nakroynyak :)

Question: replacing 4e with 5efhe starlet 4vd AT

available toyota starlet 4wd reflet f 1998 reel ICE 4e-fe (in need of capital), as I understand from the forums and catalogs, the box A244f is on the car (I won’t tell you what it is, because 1. I haven’t figured it out yet, 2. is on the car).
The dead end has already been passed, the decision has been made, the engine has been ordered. Namely 5efhe distributor. As I understand it, they were not put on 4wd at all ...
While waiting for the arrival of the engine, as well as a lot of hemorrhoids with its installation, please tell me what's what, what to expect, where what will have to be changed when reinstalling, etc. Maybe someone else has experienced something similar...
The main problem, as I see it, is the docking of the box itself and the new engine ... will it fit ... Tell me. Where to dig, what to change, redo.
Next is the brain. as I understand it (maybe wrong - correct) our box on the starlet is controlled through a computer from the internal combustion engine. those. when changing the internal combustion engine, the computer will need to be left native (from 4E), respectively, with all the consequences (what I heard from others, I read earlier - replacing injectors from 4e, crankshaft position sensor, crankshaft gear (where the timing drive is) and the coils themselves, right?
stand up normally on the pillows?
Will a 4E starter work?

Answer:

Message from YNI

The machine is not controlled by the brain. You have a brainless hydraulic box, you need to install brains from 5efhe + a motor scythe from 5efhe. It will be necessary to make friends with the new motor wiring with its cabin wiring. on pillows the motor will rise as a native. I can’t tell you how to make friends with a motor with an automatic transmission, it is known that on 5efhe the flywheel is larger than on 4e. can ask a question in the starlet club in VKontakte (). Many starlets hang out there

Understood! thanks for the info! I'm glad for her in any form))

Question: Replacing the timing belt with 3s-fe

Repair guru, please tell me that in addition to the belt itself and the rollers, it is recommended to replace it when replacing the timing at 275,000 km
(3rd change) ? Tnh!

UPD 01-03-2013
- Excellent photo report on replacing the timing belt from Alex27104

Answer:
_________________
Toyota Carina E 92 3S-FE, purple. Sold.
Golden Avik, 2001 1.6 3ZZFE.

Question: Literature on the engine

Good evening, I came across the book "Toyota engines 4e-fe, 5e-fe", I have a carburetor and a 4e-f engine, I tried to find the same book only for my engine, it did not work. Is there such a book? If there is, then someone can throw a link to a book in access, and not for money. Thank you very much in advance.

Answer:

See iotechniq.ru in the file archive, everything is corso-shaped.

Question: Valve adjustment on 4e-fe

Are the valves adjustable on 4e-fe and how much does this service cost approximately?

Answer:

Message from Al77

The ISCV still clicks. But this is regardless of the load. Take the food out of him - see if it gets better or not.

It didn’t (lay out a photo of the connector that you turn off, maybe I turned off the wrong one). although from the side of the efi return to the air, a knock is periodically heard, not strong, even when it is running at idle.

Message from Sledge

why a cracker?

Wrongly expressed, meant the puller.

The clatter is heard from the engine when driving in 3 gears in an interference uphill.

Question: Gas equipment

Has anyone installed gas on a 4E-FE injector?
Is the game worth the candle?

Answer:

Is this scientifically cognitive dissonance?

I informed the public that the calorie content (specific) of liquefied gas is lower than gasoline
you said the opposite
I gave the data that this is gas below gasoline
you gave the same data, but however gasoline is lower than gas)

I even have a 5-year-old child who understands that 42 is more than 36

And without even delving into the numbers,
it is obvious that the components of oil, for example, during the simplest pyrolysis
will be more energy intensive from light to darker oil products
with fuel oil it's not so obvious
because molecules are complex and the oxidation process during combustion is not complete

Look no methanol versus ethanol.
the whole difference in the amount of carbon in the molecule, and the output is different calorie content

You do not work as an assistant judge in the most honest court in the world?

Question: 4e-f documentary

Good afternoon, evening. I bought myself a 1991 starlet typewriter, ep82 body, 4e-f carburetor engine. Recently I ran into a vibration problem, they said the pillows were in the trash, they changed it, it got better, but the problem remained. Yuzal Google found a lot of useful for this reason. I decided to find a manual on the engine, but alas, there is one crap and decided to create a topic. Hence the question, does anyone have an electronic manual for this engine or car? The only thing that happened was to dig out the documentation for the 4e-fe, 5e-fe series engines.

Question: timing. Part number 3s-fe

Hi all! For a very long time and tediously I searched the forums for the numbers of spare parts needed to replace the timing belt and pump on the 3S-FE engine (Edeshka ST-202 :-))))) I found something, but I still want to clarify. For some reason, the data on part numbers diverge. I'm afraid to buy the wrong one. Please tell me if anyone knows.

By the way, at the same time I will lay out everything that I found with a photo report:
Pump replacement
Replacing the timing photo

Do not remain indifferent - help Edekhovod!!! :-)

Answer:

2 WR_STALKER
help me

Question: Replacing the timing belt on HARRIER 1MZ-FE

Good day! I would like to discuss such a problem as replacing a timing belt on a 1mz-fe motor, namely which rollers to change and how it is done, how to reproduce the replacement of oil seals and which brand to choose a belt, and all possible nuances!

Answer:

I changed it a week ago at Kluger 1 MZ.

Question: Good afternoon kamrivody. Help with the dragonfly!!!

This is the situation!!!
I own a Camry ACV30 1MZ-FE V6
The other day I decided to do a big maintenance with the replacement of: a fuel filter, a mesh in the tank, cleaning the throttle, washing nozzles, replacing cylinder head gaskets, candle well gaskets, replacing a timing belt with all rollers and a tensioner, replacing hinged belts, replacing camshaft and crankshaft oil seals, changing spark plugs.
So, after these manipulations, the car started up perfectly, it works fine, but when driving, namely when pressing on the gas at the start, when the speed is more than 1500 or more, there is a sound like ABS (similar sound), but it is quieter. I started the car into a skid so there ABS sounds different than this sound. In general, it seems to me that the sound comes from the throttle, and the service station says it's ABS. Arrived at the service station, there were no such sounds. Yes, and at a speed you go, let’s say, along the highway 100-110, you press on the gas and again this incomprehensible sound of roofing felts rumbles roofing felts, hisses, I can’t determine. Under the hood everything is clean and dry, all hoses are in place. (During the trials, the stabilization system turned off) Maybe someone came across?

Answer:

Question: Replacing oil seals and timing rollers with 3S-FE (Photo report) *

Prehistory: I noticed that lately the engine behind and from the side of the timing belt has become constantly in oil. Plus the level slowly started to go away.
It all started after I began to use fully synthetic oil (Mobil1 0W-40).
Apparently, the synthetics washed away some deposits and began to slowly flow out through the seals.
I decided to start with a simple one - replacing the rubber under the valve cover. which was done last fall - but to no avail.
After replacing and wiping the engine from oil in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe cover, everything remained so dry there. That is, oil does not flow out from under the cover.
Then there is one thing left - seals.
Initially, only the crankshaft oil seal was purchased, for some reason. I just didn’t know about the oil seal and rubber band of the fuel pump, and didn’t buy them.

Now the replacement itself:
1. Remove the front right wheel.

2. We unscrew the protection from below, which is mounted on several self-tapping screws and on a couple of bolts
3. Remove the starter and air conditioning belts. Starter - loosen a pair of screws on top and the generator goes down.
I did not touch the air conditioning compressor, because it is located in a terribly uncomfortable place. I decided that I would remove the pulley from the crankshaft - the belt itself would be removed. And how I will put it back - it will be seen there.
For seed, I sprayed a bolt on the pulley with a bucket. But when he began to twist it - then a bummer. The engine spins along with it.

Then he took the head, the knob, rested the knob on the floor of the garage and clicked the starter for a second (having previously disconnected the fuel pump from the power supply and started the engine without it, so that all the gasoline left the line).
The bolt loosened (more precisely, it didn’t even unscrew, but moved a little). The next step was already a matter of technology - he twisted the bolt. Easy enough (fortunately), removed the pulley.
Then I unscrewed all the bolts at the lower timing belt cover and removed it (on the top I had to loosen the bolts a little).
4. After that, the sprocket, which turns the belt, was removed very easily from the crankshaft.
Initially, it was planned that I would not put anything on the marks, but I would make it a corrector, with which schoolchildren, and not only marks, cover up letters in notebooks.
When setting the marks, a mistake was made - I decided that the belt, with the timing cover on, could not fly off the camshaft pulley, and I did not put marks there.
So, we have an engine with the bottom of the timing belt removed:

5. Next, the old crankshaft oil seal was carefully pulled out. He seemed to be quite alive.
But since I got it - we put a new one. Just in case, I smeared the outer edge of the stuffing box with a thin layer of sealant and pressed it in. It turned out quite well.
6. Since the old stuffing box looked quite alive, I decided that the oil was not pressing from under it. So the oil pump needs to be removed.
7. The pump itself is located to the left of the crankshaft oil seal and is fastened with 8 bolts, it seems.
Carefully unscrew the bolts and remove the pump. We see that the rubber gasket is all cracked, when removed, it was torn and the rubber there was already all oak.
In general, I had to run to the store and buy a new gum. Before the heap, an oil pump seal and a bypass roller were purchased (the old one was noisy. And when I changed the timing belt, I did not change the rollers).
Pump cover:

The counterpart of the pump on the engine. I lubricated the contacting surfaces with a thin layer of sealant and a rubber gasket is visible here

After removing the oil sprocket, it is possible to change the oil seal - which was done.

After installing the pump in place, we put on the belt, put it on the marks.
We put on the belts of the generator / air conditioner, put the protection.
We are waiting for the sealant to dry and you can start.

Answer:

thank you all, but somehow ambiguous. Kotofeich said to equal one mark, and uncleIGOR and StarX- to another...

And the round tide (in the second photo from above it is clearly visible) - it’s big, you definitely won’t set the crankshaft pulley on it ...

Question: is it possible to put a 4-speed on 4E-FE?

Hi all!!! Is it possible to put a 4-speed on a 4E-FE? And then my 3-speed ochchch is not enough. And what? In general, it makes sense to bother, who faced this? If there is a similar topic, please redirect.

Answer:

Fly in time for 1500 rubles, automatic transmission A244L-01A

P.S moped is not mine..

Question: trosik-speedometra!!!

Hi all! The speedometer cable has screwed up, tell me how long it is to order it for disassembly, and in general, what is it suitable for ?? 4E-FE, EL51-02

Answer:

so automatic transmission and manual transmission are different cables. manual transmission fit 41-51. I don't know about acp

Question: Ne-zapuskaetsya-4e-fe,-starter-ne-krutit,-nasos-ne-zhuzhzhit-i-ne-kachaet,-

The 4e-fe engine, after the capital, decided to start, but it doesn’t give life when the key is turned to start, the fuses are in order, the tidy is on, the check on the ignition is on, the radio tape recorder, the backlight works, the clock goes out when the key is turned, the starter is working (when the capital moves it checked, just as if the power is not going to the starter and the fuel pump, help me figure it out

Car: Toyota Tercel EL41, we will change the timing belt.

First of all, you need to remove the belts from the air conditioner, power steering pump and generator.

As the belts are removed, we begin to unscrew the pulley bolts, there are four of them, after the pulley is removed, now we have to unscrew the central bolt of the drive pulley. Everything is done carefully, as you can accidentally turn the crankshaft. If you have a manual transmission, then we turn on any gear, and if you have an automatic transmission, you will have to look for a slot, it is located behind the engine in the flywheel, it is designed to remove the fluid coupling.

The fastening bolts are designed to be unscrewed with a special tool, but they are easily unscrewed with a wrench. We begin to remove the drive pulley, use the mounting lever, or you can use a special puller.

When you wake up to remove the timing belt cover, you need to be careful, in order not to accidentally break the plastic, after the cover you need to remove the tension roller, the “sloth” and the timing belt itself.

When you install the belt, make sure that the slot is horizontally up. Now move the tension roller a little to the left.

When the belt is installed, the axle bolt must be loosened.

Turn the crankshaft about a quarter of a turn, this is done in order to tension the timing belt. Then we screw in the bolt and make two turns with the crankshaft pulley, this will check the stability of the belt. Now we put back the cover, straps, in general, everything that you took off.