If you are accustomed to "turning the nuts" since childhood, the best gift for you was a designer, and you prefer to repair a bicycle-moped-motorcycle or a car with your own hands, then this article will most likely reveal quite a bit new for you. Assembling a radio-controlled car is not particularly difficult, in particular, if you have an idea of ​​what and where it should be, and how to work.

For those beginners who only roughly understand how both a large car and its smaller copy work, this article will be extremely useful.

First of all, you need to decide on the purchase of the chassis. As mentioned in one of our articles, cars are supplied in RTR configuration - fully assembled and prepared for travel and in KIT-kits for construction (which, in turn, are divided into three types, according to the professional level).

Those who choose the RTR kit, do not think that the assembly is "over" for you and you can safely ride. Not at all. Optimally, you need to disassemble and reassemble your car! The fact is that the factory assembly is often "uneven" - somewhere the bolt is not enough, somewhere there is no lock (Thread-Lock), it is possible that the camber is made incorrectly or the gearbox gears are not exposed. Driving an untested typewriter is the risk of breaking it on the very first day. Besides, disassembling-assembling the model is the best way to study it thoroughly. Therefore, be patient and carefully read this article, perhaps the information contained in it will be useful to you.

Study the instructions and packaging!

Please read the instructions supplied with your model carefully. We will proceed from the assumption that we have a KIT set, while the owners of the RTR model will simply disassemble (in reverse order) and then assemble. Make sure you understand all names and terms. Check the package, all parts in stock must be within specification.

Pay attention to the length of the bolts and screws where they are located. They must be long enough for a secure fit. Remember, the manufacturer does not supply bolts or screws that are too long or too short. If the bolt is longer than you need at the attachment point, then it's not from here! And somewhere, in another place, he will be missed.

Do not confuse left and right side, front and back knots. You need to watch along the way of the car, then all sides and parts will correspond to their correct installation.

For assembly, it is best to allocate a spacious table and a desk lamp for bright local lighting.

It is better to spread a light dense fabric on the table - all small details are clearly visible on it. In addition, we recommend stocking a low box with small compartments, into which you can put small parts. Protect your assembly area from the sudden interference of small children and animals.

To work you need a set of tools:

Small pliers.

A set of cross-head and straight-head screwdrivers. You will need small to medium sized screwdrivers.

Small side pliers. Pliers, side cutters, nail file, knife can replace a high-quality multitool.

Scalpel or special knife with replaceable blades.

Hexagon set.

Caliper.

The assembly of the model should be carried out according to the instructions. It's not very difficult, but there are some subtleties.

1. Parts from the printed circuit board should be bite off with side cutters, after which the attachment point should be cleaned up with a scalpel.

2.Bolts and screws should be tightened without overstressing. If you have difficulty in screwing in a screw, lubricate it with soap (for this, get yourself a technical block).

3.Use Thread-Lock to prevent screws and bolts from loosening. As a rule, the instructions indicate where it is applied without fail. But, if you feel that some not specified node can unwind, it is better to fix it. Typically, all bolt-nut connections are secured with Thread-Lock.

4. Lubricate the gears, but wisely! Do not lubricate bare gears, as dirt will immediately adhere to them.

5.Check and adjust, if necessary, the gap in the main pair.

To check the gap between the gears, put a piece of paper between them and rotate the gear (should make a full circle). If all the teeth are printed on the sheet, then the gap is set correctly. If there are gaps, you need to tighten the gears a little.

After assembling the chassis (assembling the model - chassis, engine, transmission, etc.), proceed with the installation of the equipment. Center the servos. To do this, you need to set the neutral position of the trims and turn on the transmitter and receiver (with the steering servos connected to it). The servos will immediately move to the center position.

When installing the receiver, try to install it as far as possible from the battery, governor, power circuits. Move the antenna as far away as possible from possible sources of radio interference.

Having decided to purchase a battery for on-board power supply, do not miss the voltage, size, number of cans.

When gluing rubber to discs, be sure to wash off the factory preservative! Wash the rubber with soap and dry. Before gluing the rubber, apply risks to the discs (in the places of gluing), for example, with coarse sandpaper.

If you have directional rubber, make sure it is glued in the correct orientation.

In my youth, like any kid, I was very interested in radio-controlled cars. I remember how the neighbor's guy had such a car, how there was a line of the same guys on the street who wanted to try to steer at least a little. It is clear that very few people could afford such a luxury, but almost each of us attended the circle of a young technician, where they were taught to design and create some models of technology. Do you remember how they subscribed home the editions "Yuniy Tekhnik" and "Tekhnika Molodezhi", I still have packs of magazines in my dacha that I once read up and down ... covers, it is simply impossible to contain emotions ...

My labor teacher was able to do many things and gave us a lot, for which he is very grateful. I still remember our lessons - it would seem that we were given the most elementary knowledge, but how much they meant then! It is modern youth who do not appreciate what they are given at school and at the university - gaining knowledge has become something insipid and not at all valuable.

In the light of the innovative ideas of our teacher, some of us still tried to do something like a self-propelled apparatus. It turned out not bad, though few reached the victorious end. But I, without realizing the idea, decided with my son to make a typewriter on the control panel. True, again, we did not reach the victorious one ...

Our goal was:
1. Make yourself a radio-controlled model.
2. Use available tools.

Here's where we left off:

A steering wheel was also planned here, as you can see, control with an independent suspension, a completely homemade unit (wood, cardboard, wire, screw, rubber, glue were used). The son left, and we never made the typewriter. Just recently, again with nostalgia, I took it out of a deep box and thought that it would be worthwhile to do what I had started. True, the entire mechanism is beyond my power, and there is no point in taking a steam bath - the modern possibilities have been decided for us - you can buy ready-made spare parts. So there is little left to do - the motor, radio control and you're done! Soon it will be similar to this model)))))))))))))

I took the photo from here: hobbyostrov.ru/automodels/, from where, in fact, I plan to buy radio-controlled parts for implementation in my car. Only now vague doubts gnaw at me ... Should I take a hand-made unit as a basis or buy a ready-made - not radio-controlled car and make a radio-controlled one. Or, more simply, go to the above site and buy a ready-made car with radio control - is it worth bothering? Because I have order with the guiding elastic elements, but there can be real problems with depreciation, durability, and all-terrain vehicles.

Therefore, for now, I am leaning towards the second option - as a basis, you can buy a designer and build a model to your liking, in which you can implement radio control. Still, the cardboard model is not so durable, and where can the transmission be lubricated in it?)))))) Moreover, you can buy all the necessary spare parts on the same hobbyostrov.ru/.

In general, I'll do it - I'll show you what happened. In the meantime, I would like to hear / see the experience of creating radio-controlled models, I'm sure that I'm not the only one who bothers like that. Maybe there will be specific advice? ..

Do it yourself - for many, this phrase is associated primarily with a jigsaw for metal, a soldering iron and other hand-made tools. It is really possible to make your own model from absolute scratch - grinding every detail yourself - but it is a rather complicated, time-consuming and very demanding process on your own skills. Therefore, now we will talk about a simpler and more accessible option: how to collect radio-controlled car at home.

How it works?

Modern radio-controlled models can be divided into two large groups:

• RTR. Fully ready-to-use cars,. That is, took the model out of the box, put the battery in - and off you go to the races;
• Kit. Delivery option for advanced users: instead of the assembled machine, a set of spare parts comes, to which you add your own - custom - spare parts, eventually assembling the model of your dreams yourself.

Note : the option in which you buy all spare parts separately is not much different from. You just do not use ready-made kits, but, nevertheless, you use factory spare parts.

Why do you need a DIY RC model at all? Exactly the same as any custom: to stand out in the crowd, to make your car unique. Moreover, assembly from ready-made parts is less demanding on skill than “working with a file”.

What parts do you need?

As a rule, if you have chosen a Kit, then only the chassis and case are included in its package. Additionally, you will need ( we are considering an option with an electric machine):

• Engine;
• Radio equipment: control panel, receiver, telemetry;
• Wheels;
• Battery;
• Discs, inserts, etc.

Ultimately, it all depends on the specific kit for assembling a radio-controlled model of a car with your own hands: some, for example, do not have a body, and it is purchased separately.

Is it difficult to build a Kit?

It is at the stage of assembling Kit'a that difficulties usually arise: the parts are numbered, detailed instructions are included with them - do everything carefully, and there will be no problems. Difficulties most often arise when combining the chassis with the rest of the components, so we advise again: before buying an engine and other spare parts attentively study the selected Kit and its characteristics. An excellent choice would be to read thematic forums: surely someone has already worked with this Kit - and, most likely, this someone will willingly share their experience.

Plastic or aluminum?

The answer to this question largely depends on which brand we are talking about, but more on that below. If we compare "in a vacuum" - and good plastic with good aluminum - the picture looks like this:

• Plastic: lighter, better absorbing impact, regains its shape after collisions. But, at the same time, with too strong a blow, the plastic cracks and breaks, it will be almost impossible to repair it - a part for replacement. In addition, over time, the seats of the shafts and bearings loosen on plastic parts, which causes backlash - again you have to change the part;
• Aluminum... It is repairable and practically does not deform over time, but good aluminum costs more than good plastic. Bad aluminum is usually quite fragile and literally crumbles at a level of stress that high-quality plastic will not even notice. And it costs about the same.

Parts manufacturers

There are three most interesting brands:

• RPM. The best plastic on the market. Perfect quality, high strength, exceptional durability - what you need to make an indestructible rc model with your own hands. There are only two drawbacks to the brand: the high price and obvious imprisonment for American cars, like, most likely, RPM spare parts cannot be supplied to the "Chinese";
• Integy. Aluminum parts, good balance between price and quality. If you still prefer metal to plastic, you may well think about choosing this brand. Well, yes: aluminum looks great!
• Pro-Line... Another great - and quite versatile - brand. The best choice if you are going to work with non-American Kit. Among the advantages of the brand: 5 years on the market, a bunch of awards, a very wide range and an acceptable pricing policy.

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General conclusions on do-it-yourself typewriters

If you carefully follow the instructions and take your time, there is nothing prohibitively difficult in assembling an RC model yourself. The main thing is to use high-quality components from a well-known brand, they fall into place without problems. Well, we recommend starting with Kit'a simpler, and then, having received the first experience, raise the bar of custom.

I got this from my nephew radio-controlled car a toy. The range is only about 15 meters, the weak electronic part, i.e. the front wheels barely toss and turn and the drive pulls very weakly.

Having nothing to do, I decided not to pump a lot of this radio-controlled machine. Digging through the bins, I found a 40MHz receiver and two servos, one HS-311 in working order and one powerful digital MG946R with a burnt-out engine. The HS-311 was adapted to the steering wheel to replace the original, frail design, and the MG946R took only the electronic control board. For the place of the engine, the servos connected the traction motor of a radio-controlled car, and in the place of the variable, the servos soldered a 4.7kOhm trimmer resistor.

Setting up a radio-controlled car

When you turn on the transmitter for the first time, the converted radio-controlled toy starts to spin the wheels, to stop them, you need to:

• Connect the gas servo to channel 2 (channel RV)
• Adjust if you want to reverse the channel
• Stop the rotation of the wheels with a trimmer

Then we rebuild the expans (we set 100% on the gas), the costs and trim the steering wheel. For power, I used 5 cans of NICD batteries, reworked radio-controlled car received powerful and nimble. It was not without problems, the native traction engine turned out to be rather weak, it gets very hot and stinks, I think it won't have to live long. But in general, the alteration was a success, now the machine drives from under the remote control

1. Introduction
2. Types of car models
3. Internal combustion engine versus Electro. Comparison.

5. Batteries
6. Fuel
7. Body models
8. List of necessary things

1. Introduction

So, you are interested in radio-controlled car models. Whether it's a model with an internal combustion engine (ICE) or a model with an electric motor, this article will help you determine what you prefer, understand some of the general principles of the model and radio control, and buy everything you need for further operation.

First, let's take a look at the different types of car models.

2. Types of car models

Radio controlled car models can be classified as follows:

• by scale (size): 1:12, 1:10, 1: 8
• by engine type: ICE (or nitro) (internal combustion engine) or Electric (electric motor)
• by chassis type: Road, Formula 1, Buggy, Truck, Monster trucks (or Monsters)

Let's look at everything in order:

Scale

The scale of the model is indicated as for example 1:10 (or 1/10). The most common scales are 1:10 and 1: 8. The 1:12 scale is getting pretty rare. The 1:18 scale is gaining popularity (very popular among conventional, bench car models), new models of both road cars and monsters appear in it.

There are also 1:24 and 1:28 scales in which the Japanese company Kyosho makes the Mini-Z series, but these scales are approximate, they are indicated as an average for the series.
And finally, at the other extreme - scale 1: 5 - these are huge cars (about a meter long) with gasoline engines.

ICE (left) and electric motor. The proportions are not met! Usually the electric motor is much smaller than the internal combustion engine.

engine's type

Engines on the models are as follows: Internal combustion engine (ICE, also the term Nitro is used) and Electric motors.
Internal combustion engines (in the picture on the left) run on a mixture of methanol, nitromethane and oil. This fuel is sold in canisters at model stores. It is better to use high quality branded fuel so that the engine works well and lasts a long time. ICEs are divided into classes according to their working volume:

Grade 12 (2.11cc) - 1:10 scale road models
15th grade (2.5cc) - road models 1:10, buggies, trucks, monsters 1:10
18th grade (3.0 cc) - buggies, trucks, monsters 1:10
21st class (3.5cc) - road 1: 8, buggies and monsters 1: 8
25th class (4.1 cc) - buggies and monsters 1: 8

The name of the classes comes from the American classification of volume in cubic inches. So, for example, the 15th class means that the engine volume is 0.15 cubic meters. inch. When converted to cubic centimeters, it turns out: 0.15 * 2.543 = 2.458 cubic meters. cm, i.e. about 2.5.

The higher the class, the larger the engine displacement, the higher the power. For example: the power of the 15th class engines is about 0.6 hp. up to 1.2 HP Engines of the 25th class already develop 2.5 hp. and more.

Electric motors (pictured to the right) are usually powered by 7.2 V or higher batteries. Batteries are soldered from elements of 1.2 V. They also sell separate elements for soldering and ready-made batteries.
Electric motors are classified by the length of the wire wound inside (by the number of turns) - 10 turns, 11 turns, 16 turns, 24 turns, etc. The fewer the number of turns, the faster the engine.

Chassis type

The chassis is the foundation of the model. All important elements are attached to it - engine, electronics, etc. Different chassis types serve different purposes and are designed based on the application.

Formula 1- designed for the development of high speeds and races on an absolutely flat surface. The drive is rear-wheel drive (2WD), although there are models with all-wheel drive (4WD).

Buggy- for off-road racing (sand, clay, gravel, mud), can jump from trampolines. Drive - full (4WD) or rear (2WD).

Tracks- similar in design to the buggy, but have a higher ground clearance and larger wheels. Drive - full (4WD) or rear (2WD).

Monsters- have huge wheels and are able to overcome any obstacles and ride on any surface. The long suspension travel allows you to jump from high jumps and do whatever you want. Drive - full (4WD) or rear (2WD).

Road models- are able to ride on a flat surface and have high speed and good handling. Drive - full (4WD), less often rear (2WD).

3. Internal combustion engine (internal combustion engine) versus Electro. Comparison

Before making a choice, you need to weigh the pros and cons of each type of engine. A correct understanding of the advantages and disadvantages of models with an electric motor and with an internal combustion engine will help to rationally spend money and avoid problems and disappointments. So:

ICE models

Many ICE models are faster than electric models and can exceed speeds of 70-80 km / h. Be that as it may, hitting a curb or wall at 70 km / h can completely destroy the model or cause costly repairs.

ICEs for car models are single-cylinder two-stroke engines, which means they need fuel (not gasoline, but special fuel). This means that you will have to regularly buy fuel for the model (the approximate price of 4 liters of good fuel is $ 45, however, the canister lasts quite a long time). The advantage of a model with an internal combustion engine is that you can drive it as long as you like - the main thing is to fill the tank with fuel. As a rule, models with internal combustion engines are more expensive than models with an electric motor (due to the higher cost of the engine itself). Among the significant advantages of models with internal combustion engines is realistic sound.

Models with electric motor

The main disadvantage of electric models is that the battery runs out quickly. You are unlikely to be able to drive continuously for more than 15 minutes on a single charge. But apart from a short ride time and a slightly lower top speed in all other respects, the models with an electric motor turn out to be better. The main advantage of models with an electric motor is their silence, environmental friendliness and much better acceleration compared to models with an internal combustion engine.

Be that as it may, you still have to buy some additional equipment for the model - batteries and a charger. Batteries cost from $ 15 and differ in capacity and current output. The better the batteries, the higher the price, and it increases non-linearly. The chargers work either from 12V (powered by a cigarette lighter or a conventional car battery), or 220V (mains). There are chargers that can work from 12 and from 220V.

4. Radio control (equipment)

No matter what type of chassis and what scale you choose, you need a radio control system for the model. Many companies make models part of their models in the form of RTR (Ready To Run) - ready to use right out of the box - they are usually already assembled and include everything you need, including a control panel. However, some of the models are still sold as an assembly kit and control equipment will have to be purchased additionally. Let's take a look at the principle of model driving.

Radio control system for a car model with an electric motor:

3. If the driver turns the steering wheel, the Receiver will send a signal to the Servo (also called Servo), forcing it to turn in the right direction. Through the linkage system, this servo turn causes the model's wheels to turn.

4. If the rider pulls the trigger, the Receiver sends a signal to the Regulator (Speed ​​Regulator).

5. The speed controller (also called the Stroke controller, Speed ​​controller) changes the speed of the electric motor and, therefore, the speed of the model (the engine is connected to the wheels by a system of belts and / or cardan shafts).

6. The battery is used to power the Motor, Servo 1, Receiver and ESC. If the model has an electronic speed controller, then the battery is connected to it, and the controller distributes power to the motor, receiver and servo.

Radio control system for a car model with an internal combustion engine:

1. When the rider pulls the trigger or turns the steering wheel on the Control Panel, a signal is sent to the Model Receiver.

2. The receiver receives the signal, processes it and sends the signal to the appropriate devices in the model.

3. If the driver turns the steering wheel, the Receiver will send a signal to Servo 1, forcing it to turn in the desired direction. Through the linkage system, this servo turn causes the model's wheels to turn.

4. If the rider pulls the trigger, the Receiver sends a signal to Servo 2.

5. Servo 2 moves the carburetor choke, which changes the flow of the fuel / air mixture and therefore the engine RPM and model speed.

6. The battery is used to power the Receiver, Servo 1 and Servo 2.

The items shown above constitute a complete list of the model's radio equipment. All of these elements are required to drive the model. ESCs are usually sold separately, while the remote control, receiver and servos are sold separately or all in one kit.

5. Batteries

If you decide to buy a model with an electric motor, you will need batteries. Car models usually use 7.2V batteries, which are soldered from 6 1.2V cells. There are currently two types of batteries in widespread use - Nickel Cadmium (NiCd) and Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH). Each type has its own advantages and disadvantages, but NiMHs provide a large battery capacity and have little or no memory effect.

How batteries differ.

Batteries are characterized by many parameters - internal resistance, average voltage, discharge current, etc. The exact values ​​of these parameters are given for expensive batteries for serious sports, for hobbies and amateur racing you can not focus on them and buy batteries more affordable. In this case, the most important parameters are the type of battery (NiCd or NiMH) and its capacity (measured in mAh, for example 2400 mAh), it is indicated on the batteries in large numbers. The higher the capacity, the longer you can ride the model. The price, however, also increases ...

How many batteries should I buy?

For a start, it would be good to buy 2-3 batteries, which will allow you to ride with battery replacement for a long time. As for the capacity, it is better not to buy batteries with a capacity of less than 1500mAh, otherwise the driving time will be very short.

6. Fuel

Internal combustion engines for models cannot run on regular gasoline. They require a special fuel based on methanol and with varying amounts of nitromethane and oil. Nitromethane improves engine performance, and its content in car fuels is typically 16 to 25%. The oil in the fuel helps lubricate the engine and protect it from damage. Fuel cans usually indicate the nitromethane content and the type of model for which the fuel is applicable.

7. Body models

Bodies for car models are made of special plastic - polycarbonate (Lexan). The bodies are fairly light and flexible so as not to break when struck. Models can be sold with or without a body. But you can always buy a body separately - fortunately, a great variety of bodies are available, copying a huge number of real cars.
Bodies are sold already painted or unpainted (transparent). The transparent body is painted from the inside with a special paint for polycarbonate, which can be found in any store for modelers.

Bodies of different manufacturers may differ in the degree of detail and strength: some bodies are well-designed, accurately copy the original, but at the same time they are quite fragile. Other bodies contain less detail, but are more resilient and impact resistant. If you are a beginner, then try to choose more flexible bodies, because accidents are inevitable in the beginning and happen more often than it seems at first glance.

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8. List of necessary things

And, finally, a complete list of what you should buy for the model for its full functioning, start and maintenance.

For model with electric motor:

• Chassis (with electric motor)
• Radio control (the kit must contain 1 remote control, 1 receiver and 1 servo)
• Speed ​​controller (depends on the motor model, consult your dealer)
• Batteries (buy at least 2 batteries with a capacity of at least 1500mAh)
• Charger

For model with ICE:

• Chassis (with engine)
• Radio control (the kit must contain 1 remote control, 1 receiver and 2 servos)
• Rechargeable batteries or batteries (for powering the receiver and servos, usually 4 pieces of AA type)
• Body (if it was not included with the chassis)
• Body paint (it is better to buy 2 spray cans)
• Fuel
• A bottle for filling fuel into the model's tank
• Glow plug device (called glowstart in English)

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