How, when and how often should engine oil be changed? If you are a happy owner of a car, then you probably asked these questions. Car designs are becoming more and more perfect every year, which is due to the tightening of environmental requirements and the ever-increasing demands of buyers for the technical characteristics of cars. More advanced powertrains require higher quality lubricants. Currently, there are a huge number of different oils that meet these requirements, but it’s better to buy them from official distributors, because there are many fakes on the car oil market. Having saved on the purchase of oil, you can then pay for engine repairs for a long time.

Choosing the right oil for your car

Car manufacturers in the service book indicate the minimum requirements for oil characteristics. It should lubricate the engine under heavy loads and high temperatures and ensure engine start at low temperatures, because at -30 ° C the oil becomes jelly-like. And in the latter case, it would not hurt the driver to use it to warm up the engine to operating temperature: the engine is happy, and you didn’t have to jump around the car in the cold. In specialized stores, according to special catalogs, you will select the oil of the required viscosity and type.

As an educational program, I inform you (just in case) that there are three types of oil: synthetic, mineral and semi-synthetic. Using the wrong type of oil can shorten the life of the engine and cause it to be repaired sooner.

The higher the viscosity of the oil, the better the piston rings and other engine components are lubricated, and the thicker the residual oil film that the piston rings leave in the cylinder and the higher the compression. Therefore, the higher the viscosity, the higher the resource of the motor, but the greater the waste. Therefore, automakers need to find a compromise when determining the viscosity grade of the recommended oil: either an increase in engine life or a decrease in oil waste. As for used cars with a worn out engine, they should choose a thicker oil, for example, 15W-40, and put up with constant topping up.

Service interval selection

The frequency of changing the engine oil is also determined by the manufacturer. This period is calculated based on average operating conditions of the engine, such as:

• Air pollution
• Fuel quality
• Engine oil quality
• Regional features of operation (temperature characteristics, relief, etc.)
• Vehicle class, etc.

When choosing an oil change interval in the engine, some features of the operating conditions should be taken into account, which shorten this interval. These features include the following:

• In Russia, fuel is not of the highest quality, one of its features (apart from the fact that the octane (for gasoline) and cetane (for diesel) number is lower than it should be according to the standards) is the presence of sulfur. By the way, automakers calculate replacement intervals based on the properties of European fuel ...
• Traffic jams and difficult traffic when the vehicle is in start-stop mode, as well as when driving uphill or with a trailer. In this case, the load on the engine increases many times, and, consequently, the oil burns out more intensively.
• Irregular use of the car (for example, trips once a week in the summer to the country): a break of 3-4 days is already considered significant for a car, because. during idle time, condensate forms in the engine, which, mixing with the combustion products of the fuel, forms acid. Because of this, the oil quickly loses its alkaline properties, due to which it neutralizes the acidic environment.
• Continuous short distance driving also contributes to the formation of condensation, especially if the engine does not warm up to operating temperature.
• Dusty and polluted air (under this condition, you should also change the air filter more often, which will reduce fuel consumption and increase engine life)
• Idle operation of the engine - when there is no airflow to the engine and the efficiency of the cooling system decreases, as a result of which the engine oil heats up. But in our climate it is simply necessary

If we take into account all the factors listed above, we can conclude that it costs most drivers to reduce the oil change interval by at least a third, if not twice.

If you purchased a car from your hands and are not sure about the quality of its maintenance, then make the first 2 replacements at an interval halved. So you better flush the engine from deposits formed on the walls of the cylinders.

If you decide to save from 200 to 1000 rubles (this is the average cost of an oil change in car services for different car models, although we are not talking about official dealers, of course) and change the engine oil yourself, then first make sure you have the necessary tools, wipes , canisters for draining waste oil. It is also better to choose a spacious area where you will not interfere with anyone. Be sure to apply the handbrake to prevent the vehicle from rolling back.

• Warm up the engine for 15 minutes - this will drain more used oil, because. its viscosity decreases; in addition, it will release a larger amount of suspended particles formed during the combustion of the fuel-air mixture (in other words, dirt)
• Drain the used oil into a container prepared in advance, the approximate volume of which you can determine based on the amount of oil needed.
• After you have drained the used oil, screw the plug into the pan. Then change the oil filter. When replacing, do not fill the filter with oil, lubricate only its sealing ring. It is better to twist it simply by hand, without using any tools, without overtightening.
• Pour in enough fresh oil so that the level on the dipstick is between the maximum and minimum marks.
• After that, start the engine, let it idle for five minutes. The oil filter will take the required amount at this time. Check the oil level on the dipstick, top up if necessary.

For more information on oil change technology, see the video.

After changing the oil in the engine sometimes changes color. This means that it realizes its detergent and dispersant properties well, i.e. Washes out and holds in suspension the products of oxidation and combustion, keeping engine surfaces clean.

After the first trip, it is worth checking the oil level. This should be done on a flat surface 10 minutes after the car stops. In no case do not check the oil level of a cold engine - it will show the wrong level.

Popular oil change myths

Currently, there are many myths that can confuse not only the layman, but also the specialist. Let's try to dispel some of them.

Myth #1. Absolutely any quality oil can be bought at any market and in any garage.

Counterfeit oil is even more common these days than gasoline. Cases of detention of such batches of oils have become more frequent even in chain hypermarkets, to say nothing of car markets and dubious kiosks. Therefore, it is better, when coming to the store, to ask for a certificate of the company whose oil you want to purchase - it is issued by official distributors. You won't be in a suspicious place, so why aren't you worried about quality assurance when buying your pet's "blood"?

Myth #2. Before switching to another oil, it is necessary to flush the engine using a special flushing agent - this is perhaps one of the most popular myths.

If this were true, then oil manufacturers would certainly indicate this requirement in the operating instructions for cars. Flushing the engine is not recommended! Firstly, by the fact that modern oils have very good detergent properties. Engine oil cleans the engine of old deposits and prevents the formation of new ones. Secondly, detergents (washes) are not certified, they are not oils, and this “chemistry”, which, having reacted with oil additives, can quickly lead you to engine repair.

If you think that there is a need for additional engine cleaning, reduce the oil change interval.

Myth #3. Mixing different motor oils is acceptable, it does not harm the engine.

Mixing oils of different types is a harmful occupation, because each oil contains a complex of specific additives, even if you use oils with the same tolerances, but produced by different brands. After all, each company uses its own specific formula, so even the characteristics of oils with similar specifications can differ dramatically. As a result of mixing, an incomprehensible mixture is formed in which any chemical reaction can occur. In an emergency, for example on a highway, you can add another oil, but it is not recommended to drive on such a mixture for a long time, it should be replaced.

Myth number 4. If the oil turns black and the service interval is not completed, then this indicates a low quality of the oil, it should be replaced.

As mentioned in the article, oil discoloration is not a cause for concern. On the contrary, this is an indicator of the good implementation of its washing properties. On the contrary, if the oil does not darken during operation, then this indicates that the oil does not cope with one of its main functions - maintaining the engine in working condition and protecting against deposits.

Myth number 5. The presence of engine oil consumption for waste is an indicator of poor oil quality.

During the operation of the engine there is a natural loss of oil for waste. Each automaker has standards for such losses for each model. Although these rates may vary depending on the following indicators: operating mode and driving style, proper selection of oil, condition of clearances in the cylinder-piston group, engine settings, compliance with the correct oil change intervals. In addition, consumption may increase due to malfunctions in the engine, turbocharger, injection pump, etc.

The engine oil must be changed on all vehicles without exception in accordance with the frequency specified by the vehicle manufacturer. Some car owners do it themselves, while others use the services of service stations. The first option is preferable, since it allows you to save a lot of money. However, before performing the corresponding procedure, it is necessary to decide on the answers to the following questions - when to change the engine oil, what filling volume to use, what oil to fill in the engine, how to change the oil filter, whether to flush the engine, and how to change the oil yourself. We will give detailed answers to all these questions, as well as give you the prices of the corresponding consumables and the final cost as of autumn 2017.

When to change engine oil

A presumptive answer to the question of when to change engine oil is given by the manufacturer of your car in the manual for the car. On average, this gap for cars with a gasoline engine, is approximately 10 ... 15 thousand kilometers(although sometimes it reaches 20-30 thousand). For most new cars, this procedure is performed at the first MOT, which coincides in mileage with the specified distance.

As for diesel engines, they are replaced more often. Approximately every 7-8 thousand. This is due to the fact that diesel fuel (especially the one sold at gas stations in the post-Soviet space) does not differ in its quality, respectively, because of this, the engine and the oil in it deteriorate faster.

It is better to change the oil in the autumn, so that in winter, at low temperatures, the engine is as protected as possible.

Severe operating conditions significantly reduce engine life. Oil at the same time also loses its properties faster.

Severe operating conditions

What threatens to change the oil according to the regulations in difficult conditions

If the engine is operated under severe operating conditions, the oil in it wears out much faster. Accordingly, the following situations should be avoided whenever possible. So, under severe operating conditions of the machine are meant:

1. Long driving at low speed in the hot season in city traffic, long downtime in traffic jams. At the same time, the engine cooling system often does not cope with its tasks, so the engine and the oil in it overheat. Similar reasoning is valid for long engine idling, especially during a hot period. Therefore, try not to leave the car running for a long time in the summer.
2. Engine operation at maximum permissible loads in continuous mode(for example, carrying or towing heavy loads, driving in mountainous areas, and so on). At the same time, a similar picture is observed - the engine and oil experience significant temperature loads.
3. Infrequent trips over short distances, especially in low temperatures. The fact is that in such situations, the oil simply does not have time to warm up in order to fully fulfill its lubricating and protective functions. And this leads to additional engine wear. In addition, if the car stays in the garage for a long time during the cold season, then condensation forms on the surface of engine parts. When it mixes with the products of fuel combustion, it forms an acidic compound that negatively affects the engine from the inside.
4. Driving in dusty or very polluted air. This causes the air filter to become clogged, allowing less air to pass through than is needed to form a normal fuel mixture. Accordingly, it becomes enriched. And this is harmful to the engine, and, accordingly, the oil poured into it.
5. A similar situation occurs if clogged fuel filter. The only difference is that now the fuel mixture will be lean. But it's also bad for the engine.

Therefore, in order to extend the life of the power unit, as well as the interval between oil changes, you should not operate the machine in the conditions described above, but also replace the fuel and air filters on time.

Refueling volumes

Many owners are interested in the question - how much oil is needed to replace the engine of their car. Unfortunately, it is impossible to give an unambiguous answer in this case, since each car model (and even each engine if the car is equipped with different motors) requires its own amount of lubricant.

Remember that you need to measure the oil level only with the engine not running!

However, the average infographic looks like this:

1. Passenger cars with an engine capacity of 1.2 ... 1.8 liters. The volume of oil in this case will be 3.5 to 4 liters. As mentioned above, you will find the exact data in the manual. If there is no reference literature, then experts recommend in this case to fill in about 3 liters, and then check the level with a dipstick. Top up some more if necessary. The main thing is that its level does not exceed the MAX mark on the dipstick.
2. As for cars with engine size from 2 to 2.4 liters, then the volume of oil to be filled will be no more than 4.5 liters.
3. If you have a powerful machine with a volume 3 to 5 liters, then the volume of lubricant will be 5 ... 6.5 liters.

Remember to check the engine oil level regularly. This procedure should be performed once every one to two weeks, in extreme cases once a month. After all, if you miss the moment when the oil level drops critically, you risk facing costly repairs caused by a critical level of lubrication.

What oil to fill in the engine

The next important question regarding the replacement is what kind of oil to fill in the engine. The answer to it also depends only on the manufacturer's recommendations, respectively, you will find the exact information in the manual. The first thing you need to know is that there are three types of oil -, and. Each of these types has its own characteristics, which you can read about at the links provided.

Currently, mineral oils are rarely used. The most common are semi-synthetic and fully synthetic formulations. They provide better engine protection, especially under severe operating conditions. There are several classifications of motor oils. However, the most common of them are two - by viscosity (SAE) and by API classification. Most often, the choice is based precisely on viscosity, since this parameter is selected taking into account the climatic region of operation of the machine.

Let us briefly dwell on the decoding of the designations of this standard. It looks like this - XW-Y, where X is an indicator of low-temperature viscosity, and Y is a high-temperature one. Let us give the notation of the first indicator.

As for high-temperature viscosity, the higher its value, the higher temperatures the composition can work. You can read more detailed information about this in the article on our website about the differences between the popular ones, as the most common in our country.

Remember that the choice of oil should always be based on the recommendations of the car manufacturer!

Also, when choosing, consider API standard. Its designation begins with the letters S or C. The former are designed for gasoline engines, the latter for diesel engines. In addition, there are a few more nuances:

1. Abbreviation EC, which is located immediately after the API, denote energy-saving oils.
2. Roman numerals after this abbreviation they talk about the level of fuel economy.
3. One of these letters is followed by performance level, indicated by letters from A (lowest level) to N and beyond (the higher the alphabetical order of the second letter in the designation, the higher the oil class).
4. Universal oil has letters of both categories through an oblique line (for example: API SL / CF, at present there are more and more such oils).
5. API marking for diesel engines, they are divided into two-stroke (number 2 at the end) and 4-stroke (number 4, respectively).

According to the API standard for gasoline engines (letter S), the following classes are currently relevant.

As for diesel engines (letter C), the relevant classes for them are:

A few words about ACEA standard. It indicates the performance properties, purposes and category of engine oil. ACEA classes are also divided into diesel and gasoline. The latest edition of the standard provides for the division of oils into 3 categories and 12 classes:

1. A/B - petrol and diesel engines of cars, vans, minibuses (A1/B1...12, A3/B3...12, A3/B4...12, A5/B5...12).
2. C - petrol and diesel engines with exhaust gas catalyst (C1...12, C2...12, C3...12, C4...12).
3. E - diesel engines of trucks (E4...12, E6...12, E7...12, E9...12).

The so-called tolerances are also characteristic of motor oils. It should be noted that the tolerances are indicated by car manufacturers, or rather engines for them, and not by oil manufacturers. The latter only adapt to the former. You will find exact information about the tolerances of engine oil that can be used in your car engine in the service book or manual. As an example, here are some of them with a brief explanation.

• VW 500.00- this is the designation of all-season motor oils with viscosity SAE 5W-* and 10W-*, used only in gasoline engines. This is one of the old VAG approvals. Such oil is acceptable for use in car engines manufactured before August 1999. For cars of a newer model range, new tolerances have also been developed. Essentially the same as ACEA A3-96.
• VW 501.01- also one of the “old” VAG approvals. Denotes engine oils suitable for VW gasoline and diesel engines (models manufactured after August 1999). Specification 501.01 is found on oils with a viscosity of 10w-40 and 15w-40. The tolerance is close to the 500th, but may be inferior in terms of fuel economy. Conforms to the ACEA A2 class (accordingly, such oils can be used in machines for which ACEA A2 is prescribed). Please note that turbodiesels also require approval 505.00.
• VW 502.00- oils exclusively for gasoline engines. First successor to VW 501.01 and VW 500.00 approvals. A notable difference is that it is recommended for an engine operating in difficult conditions, at increased loads. However, it is not recommended for vehicles with irregular and extended drain intervals. Complies with ACEA A3 requirements.
• VW 503.00- the so-called "Longlife" oils (English Longlife) for gasoline engines produced since May 1999. An increased replacement interval is allowed - up to 30,000 km or two years of operation (however, it is worth making an allowance for domestic "features" of operation). Specification 503.00 can be found on the labels of oils with a viscosity of 0W-30 and 5W-30. The approval completely exceeds the requirements of approval 502.00 and meets all ACEA A1 requirements. Please note that the use of such oils in earlier models is FORBIDDEN, as a lower high temperature viscosity can lead to engine damage and repair.
• VW 503.01- Longlife oils (mileage up to 30,000 km or two years of operation), specially designed for highly loaded engines of the Audi RS4, Audi TT, S3 and Audi A8 6.0 V12 (models with a power of more than 180 BHP, power taking into account transmission losses), Passat W8 and Phaeton W12. To date, it has been replaced by VW 504.00 approval.
• VW 504.00- came to replace the tolerances VW 503.00 and VW 503.01. In addition to all the Longlife benefits mentioned above, 504.00 is suitable for engines meeting the Euro 4 emission standard (in fact, it covers all previous gasoline approvals and can be used in all types of gasoline engines).
• VW 505.00- approval of diesel engine oils (5W-50, 10W-50/60, 15W-40/50, 20W-40/50, 5W-30/40 SAE, 10W-30/40). Applicable for passenger diesel cars (with and without turbocharging) - models no later than August 1999 of release. Meets ACEA B3 requirements.
• VW 505.01- special oils 5W-40 for engines with pump-injector, V8 Common Rail systems of turbodiesel engines. The replacement interval is standard. Conforms to the ACEA B4 class.
• VW 506.00- Diesel Longlife oils 0W-30 - service interval up to 50,000 km or two years of operation (naturally, within reasonable limits - see VW 503.00). Please note that it is not suitable for engines with a unit injector. Also remember that the use of such oils in earlier models is PROHIBITED, as a lower high temperature viscosity can lead to damage and unscheduled engine repairs.
• VW 506.01- Longlife oil (30 ... 50 thousand kilometers or two years of operation) for diesel engines with a pump injector. Complies with ACEA B4.
• VW 507.00- overlaps all previous tolerances of diesel motor oils. These are Longlife oils for almost any diesel engine, including engines that meet the Euro 4 standard with a diesel particulate filter (DPF). Please note that the exceptions are V10, R5 engines, as well as truck and bus engines without a diesel particulate filter. For such engines, an oil corresponding to VW 506.01 is used.
• VW 508.00- these are most likely to be low-ash oils with an extended drain interval with high energy-saving properties. To date, VW 508.00 approval is only in development.

Oil filter replacement

Every car owner should know that When changing the oil, the oil filter is always changed as well.. This requirement is relevant for both gasoline and diesel engines. Otherwise, all the dirt and soot that is in the filter will quickly contaminate the new oil, and in fact the replacement procedure will be reduced to nothing.

To unscrew the filters, special pullers are used.

Remember that the mentioned pullers are only used to unscrew the filters. You need to twist them only by hand(This is especially true for cars with gasoline engines). Another important point concerns the difference between filters for gasoline and diesel engines. The fact is that diesel oil works in more difficult conditions. Accordingly, the filter is heavily loaded. If you do not go into details, then in general terms we can say that a filter from a diesel engine can be put on a gasoline one, but vice versa - you can’t! In this case, of course, it is necessary to take into account the filter models, their mounting dimensions, mounting, characteristics, and so on. All this information can be found in the manual. And it's best to use filter recommended by the manufacturer your car.

A couple more tips for changing the oil filter:

1. During the replacement process, be sure to lubricate the O-ring with new oil. So you soften the rubber, reduce the pressure on it, and thus increase the life of the ring. And as mentioned above, screw the filter only by hand, without the use of pullers!
2. Some auto mechanics during the replacement process recommend pouring a little oil into the filter. There are many controversies and opinions about this. Omitting the details, we will only say that it is worth doing this if you change the oil in winter and / or your car engine is used in difficult (described above) conditions. Otherwise, this recommendation can be neglected.

Engine flush

In some cases, car owners flush individual engine parts from oil deposits on their surfaces. In particular, flushing is recommended in the following situations:

1. When switching from one brand of oil to another, and both depending on their types (mineral water, synthetics or semi-synthetics) and on their viscosity characteristics.
2. After buying a used car, since you do not know or are only aware, according to the seller, about the brand of lubricant and the frequency of replacement. And this means that you cannot be sure of the good condition of the car engine.
3. Under severe operating conditions to better wash out the remnants of soot products.
4. With a complete overhaul of the engine as a result of the overhaul.

1. Cleaning by hand on a disassembled engine.
2. A fairly popular method of pumping diesel fuel through the engine (this is how contract engines are cleaned).
3. Use of flushing oil before adding new grease. This is a conventional mineral oil without additives and is often used when switching from one oil to another.
4. Five minute wash. A special agent is poured into the old oil before draining, after which it is “run” through the system for 5 minutes, then the slurry is drained. Remember that this flushing method is the most aggressive!
5. Flushing with conventional motor oil (the cheapest). The point is to let the engine run for about 500 km, drain it and fill it with the one that is planned to be used on an ongoing basis. Although such flushing is mild and does not harm the motor, the technique itself is expensive and largely meaningless.

Also, flushing is recommended in case. if you used old oil much longer than its expected life (for example, you simply forgot about the regulations). Or in the case when the oil has become very thick and turned into a jelly-like mass.

How to change the oil yourself

Typically, car dealers always inform customers that oil changes must be carried out at service centers. Otherwise, the manufacturer's warranty will be void. Therefore, in the case of an oil change on a new car, the decision on where it is better to perform this procedure lies entirely with the car owner. As for cars that have traveled over 30 thousand kilometers (after the second MOT), the driver can change the oil himself. This is how you save money. And the procedure itself is not something complicated.

What you need before replacing

Just before changing, you will need not only new oil, but also some other tools. Also take care of where you will perform the procedure. So, to replace you will need the following tools and materials:

1. New oil. Use manufacturer recommended lubricant. We also think it will be useful for you to familiarize yourself with the video regarding the issue of for the car.
2. New oil filter. You will find its brand in the manual for your car. Using original filters or their analogues is the choice of the car owner, and depends largely on the brand of the car and the cost of the filters.
3. Oil filter puller. Its type depends not only on the design of your car's engine, but also on how often you plan to use it. For example, an inexpensive puller is also suitable for a private trader. If you work at a service station, then it is better to purchase high-quality universal pullers.
4. New sealing washer/ring. Their replacement is made depending on how worn out the old consumables are. However, it is better to replace them. If the drain plug is damaged, then it must also be replaced.
5. Wrench for unscrewing the drain plug. Its size and shape depend on the make and model of the machine.
6. Container for old oil. In this capacity, any vessel of medium volume is suitable (depending on the engine size, but it is better to take it with a margin). In addition, please note that in the future, the vessel cannot be used for pure liquids, especially food!
7. Drain funnel(optional). If the container has a thin neck, then you will need a funnel.
8. Rags and gloves. They are necessary in order, firstly, not to get your hands dirty (including to prevent the appearance of an unpleasant skin odor as a result of the procedure), and secondly, to remove possible dirt and / or oil drops that have fallen on nearby surfaces.

Work must be carried out in a specially prepared place. It can be a viewing hole, a flyover, a small mound or a bump. The main thing is that the car owner has access to the oil drain cock, which is usually located at the bottom of the engine, under the bottom of the car. You can also use a jack to raise the car.

The replacement process on most modern cars is performed according to the same algorithm. The differences are only in the location of individual parts, for example, the oil drain cock.

Remember that the replacement must be carried out at a low oil temperature! Ideally, you need to start a cold engine and let it run for 5-10 minutes, depending on the ambient temperature. This is done to make the oil less viscous.

The procedure consists of the following steps:

1. Prepare your work space. That is, drive into a viewing hole, an overpass, raise the car on a jack.
2. Keep yourself and your car safe. That is, securely immobilize it by putting the car on the handbrake and insuring the wheels with wheel chocks.
3. Find a drain hole. To do this, inspect the bottom of the car. As a rule, it is located at the bottom of the engine. Also evaluate and correctly select the necessary set of wrenches for unscrewing the cork.
4. With a rag clean the surface near the drain plug, as well as the oil filter.
5. Substitute a dish for draining to the right place.
6. Unscrew the drain plug and oil filter. This must be done carefully and slowly so that the oil does not begin to flow out in a powerful stream.
7. Wait until the oil is completely drained, tighten the drain plug and install a new filter element (do not forget to lubricate the new sealing gum if you need to fill the filter with oil).
8. Fill in new oil into the filler neck of the engine in the required amount.
9. Check dipstick level. It should be about ⅔ closer to the maximum mark.
10. Clean up oil spills on the working surfaces of parts, if any.

As you can see, the procedure is simple, and even a novice car owner can handle it. The main thing, follow the safety rules when working!

Express oil change

There are two main ways to change engine oil:

• traditional (drain plug is unscrewed);
• express replacement (carried out at the service using a special vacuum apparatus).

Most experienced car owners are accustomed to changing the engine oil in the traditional way, crawling under the car and unscrewing the drain plug in the crankcase. However, the design of the engines of new machines is also designed for express replacement. What is the procedure?

Its algorithm involves the use of a special vacuum apparatus, with the help of which the used oil is sucked out of the engine through the hole of the dipstick to check its level. The main advantages of express replacement are high speed and efficiency of replacement, as well as convenience (the driver does not need to get under the car).

In the same way as with the usual method, with an express replacement, the engine must be warmed up to operating temperature, and then the hose of the vacuum apparatus should be inserted into the hole of the oil dipstick as far inward as possible so that the end touches the bottom of the pan. After that, the oil is quickly pumped out. It begins to flow into the capacity of the pumping unit due to the formation of reduced pressure (vacuum).

Currently, many car owners are afraid of express replacements, since there is a myth that after performing the procedure, a lot of old oil remains in the pan. However, it is not! As many tests have shown, even less of it remains there than after a traditional drain. The only disadvantage of a quick oil change is that the vacuum method does not completely get rid of metal dust and / or burnt residues that accumulate in the bottom of the sump during long operation. Therefore, express replacement is not recommended for systematic use or during an engine flush procedure. However, it saves a little time and money, because the cost of an express engine oil change is less. And besides, you do not have to change the sealing washer of the drain bolt, as it is recommended to do on some cars.

Engine oil change cost

Many car owners are interested in the question - how much will it cost to change the oil in the service and with your own hands. In this section, we will try to answer it, and present for you the price of consumables and the work of service station employees as of autumn 2017.

Let's start with a simpler option - oil change in car service. We’ll clarify right away that the final value will depend on several factors - the model of the car, the brand and volume of oil used, prices directly set by the owners of the service station. We give you the average prices for Moscow and the Moscow region.

Please note that some garages provide oil changes free of charge, provided you buy it locally.

Now consider a more complex option - do-it-yourself oil change. When calculating the final cost of the procedure, in this case it is also necessary to take into account the model of the machine and the price of the oil used, but also add to them the cost of all consumables used. Here are the average prices for autumn 2017:

Consumables and tools	Price, rubles
Motul Specific DEXOS2 5w30, synthetic motor oil, 5 liter canister catalog number - 102898	3700
SHELL Helix HX8 5W/30, synthetic motor oil, 4 liter canister catalog number - 550040542	1500
Lukoil Lux 5W40 SN/CF oil, synthetic engine oil, 4 liter canister catalog number - 207465	1300
MOBIL Ultra 10W-40, semi-synthetic oil, 4 liter canister number - 152197	950
ZIC A+, 5W30, semi-synthetic oil, 1 liter can number - ZIC A 5W30	400
Castrol Magnatec SAE 10W 40, semi-synthetic oil, 4 liter can number - 156EB4	1200
Oil filter VAZ 2110-12, Granta, Kalina, 2108 JS Asakashi art. C0065, Car make: LADA, Manufacturer: JS Asakashi	160
Oil filter Ford Focus II, Bosch art. 0451103363. Car make: Ford, Manufacturer: Bosch	300
Oil filter RENAULT LOGAN/CLIO/MEGANE/LAGUNA, Car make: Renault, Manufacturer: Knecht	300
Oil filter Hyundai Accent, KIA Cee`d, Rio II Filtron, art. OE6742, Car make: Kia, Manufacturer: FILTRON	200
Oil filter / filter assy-oil NISSAN art. 1520865F0E, Car make: Nissan, Manufacturer: Nissan	350
Crab-type oil filter remover has 3 fingers.	600
JTC 4736 oil filter belt puller. Type: belt; Capture diameter: 60-260 mm.	1700
Oil filter puller belt grip - 55-100 mm AIRLINE art. ak-f-02	300
Oil filter puller FIT, chain. Article - 64791.	300

In one case or another, the car owner can use various consumables. This applies to both names and brands and models. Therefore, based on the information above, you can independently calculate the approximate cost of the procedure.

Results

As you can see, changing the oil with your own hands is a simple task, and most, even inexperienced, car owners can handle it. However, it is necessary to take into account the nuances and follow the above algorithm of actions. And do not forget to choose those consumables (oil and filters) that are recommended by the manufacturer of your car.

Changing the oil in the engine is a fairly simple procedure that any car owner can do if desired. This article will describe in detail how to change the oil in the engine with your own hands, what tools you will need for this and describe some points that will be useful even to an experienced car owner.

How much does an engine oil change cost?

Engine oil change at a specialized service station will cost the owner from 200 to 500 rubles. This is the average price and it varies by 100 up or down. It all depends on the "arrogance" and the high cost of the service. Depends engine oil change price on several factors, such as the need to remove the engine protection, the use of flushing, and simply on the model of the car. The factor of "arrogance" of the service also depends on the latter. In most cases, if a person arrives in an expensive car for a service in order to change oil, then they will take money from him an order of magnitude more than from a person who arrived in a budget car. Though oil change procedure there will be no difference in both cases. If there is a protection under the engine, and there are no technological holes for changing the oil in it, then when changing the engine oil, this protection will have to be dismantled. Removing and installing protection will increase the cost of replacing engine oil by about 50-150 rubles. And if the owner plans to use flushing when replacing engine oil, then the service will still take about 100-150 rubles from him. When all points are met, the owner gives a "good" amount that could be spent on something more important by changing the engine oil yourself.

What do you need to change the engine oil yourself?

The first thing to decide - this is the place to change the oil. Ideally, this should be a garage, but not everyone has a garage these days. If there is a garage, then we have already dealt with the first point. If not, then that's okay too. Surely, everyone has an acquaintance, relative or friend who has a garage. You can ask to the garage for half an hour to change the engine oil. I am sure that if there is such a friend or acquaintance, then he will definitely not refuse your request to use his garage to change the engine oil. Well, if absolutely no one from your environment has a garage, then you can change the oil in the fresh air. In this case, the ideal season would be summer, but in winter it is also possible to change the oil in the engine without a garage. Many garage co-ops have an overpass or pit in the street that we can use to change motor oil. Ask your friends, for sure there will be one among them who knows such a place. Well, if this is tight, then you can use a regular jack. Do you have him???

So, we have decided on the place. Buy engine oil and filter. There is a tool. Straight arms and gloves are also available. We're going to change the oil. On the way, do not forget to take a container for used oil with you. In this case, a pelvis will work well. Also take a container for transporting used oil with you. An ordinary 5-liter plastic bottle will work well here. Both the basin and the bottle can be purchased at any hardware store.

How to start changing engine oil?

The first thing to do is look under the car and investigate where the drain plug is located, how it is more convenient to get to it, which key is suitable, is there an engine protection. As a rule, the drain plug wrench is the usual 17. But there are other options - an asterisk, a hexagon, etc. If the first time change the oil in the engine yourself, it is better to know this and have a suitable key. If engine protection is installed, then pay attention to whether there are technological holes in it and it will be necessary to remove it when changing engine oil. If there are no such holes, then pay attention to the protection fastening and what keys may be required. After we have studied the lower part of the engine, we move on to the next item.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for changing engine oil with photos

1. We warm up the engine to operating temperature, i.e. up to 90 degrees. You can ride or just stand still with the engine running and wait. This is necessary in order for the engine oil to become more liquid (when heated, the oil becomes more liquid). Also, engine oil holds particles well when shaken. Depending on the quality of the oil, it is able to retain particles from half an hour to 2x. Then the particles settle. Do you now understand why it is necessary to warm up the engine when changing engine oil?

If you change the oil on a flyover or a pit, then we drive into place, turn off the engine and put the car on the handbrake. If we carry out the procedure for changing engine oil on the streets or in a garage without a pit, then turn off the engine, put the car on the hand brake. Then we take out the jack and raise as much as possible the side from which it will be convenient to crawl to the drain plug.



We are preparing containers for collecting used engine oil and tools. We make way for the drain plug and unscrew it. CAREFULLY. The oil in a hot engine is hot and can burn you. So be careful. In any case, part of the used oil will fall into your hands and nothing can be done about it. As soon as the oil has poured, substitute the container and wait for the oil to drain. If the car is on a jack, then lower it and raise the other side. Oil should begin to flow more intensively. Play around and lowering and raising the car to drain the used engine oil as much as possible. In any case, when changing engine oil, some of the old oil will remain in the engine. It is impossible to completely drain the engine oil when changing, but you should strive to drain as much as possible.

If you do not use flushing oil, then immediately proceed to the next step. Whether or not to use flushing oil is up to you. If you are interested in my opinion, then I am ready to tell you about it in a nutshell. So, if you change the oil at a normal interval of up to 10 thousand km, then flushing is not necessary. If the oil is very dirty, then flushing can be used. It is described in great detail about the use of washes. Flushing oil in its composition resembles motor oil, but with a large addition of detergent additives. Before using flushing oil, you should read the instructions. As a rule, manufacturers write step-by-step instructions on the back of the canister. Most often, it is necessary to drain the old engine oil, fill in flushing oil at the minimum mark. Start the engine and let it idle for 10-15 minutes. Then drain the flushing oil, change the filter and fill in new engine oil.

When the oil is drained, without twisting the drain plug, unscrew the oil filter. If there is not enough strength to unscrew the filter by hand, then we pierce it with a screwdriver and unscrew it. You can use a special puller, but personally, having owned various cars, I have never used an oil filter puller in 10 years. If the filter was not unscrewed by hand, then a screwdriver and a hammer were used. If you don’t know how to unscrew the oil filter, then read the article:. The article describes 5 good ways to easily unscrew the oil filter. When you unscrew the oil filter, some more oil will flow out of it.



We twist the drain plug into place, wipe the attachment plane of the oil filter with an unnecessary rag and install a new oil filter. Do not forget to lubricate the O-ring with oil before installing the oil filter. The oil filter must be changed every time the engine oil is changed! There is an opinion that before installing the oil filter, it must be filled with oil. This is not necessary in 99% of cases. No air lock is formed. This can be verified by examining . And the volume of oil entering the oil filter itself is so small that at the first start, the oil pump will pump it through so quickly that the engine will not have time to “notice” it. Therefore, you may not be the case of "experienced" car owners who advise you to fill the filter with oil before installing it. Other than spilled oil, you won't feel any difference.

When the oil filter is installed (detail) and the drain plug is tightened, you can fill in new engine oil. For convenience, you can use a funnel. If it is not at hand, then you can take a plastic bottle and make a funnel out of it. If there is neither a funnel nor a bottle, then the oil can be poured directly from the canister directly into the filler neck. The main thing is not to rush and do it carefully. To prevent oil from splashing out and pouring past the neck, hold the canister flat on the ground. That will be much more convenient.

Wrong:



Right:

And do not forget about the quality of engine oil. Try not to run into a fake. We are gradually posting articles about the difference between fake oils and original ones. Dismantled recently. If interested, please follow the link.

How to determine how much oil to fill in the engine when replacing?

Ideally, the oil level should be between the Min and Max marks on the dipstick in the engine. On some probes, these marks are not signed, but there are risks in the form of dashes, dots, slots, etc. After you have poured most of the required oil into the engine, wait until it drains into the crankcase. After a couple of minutes, pull out the dipstick and check the level. If the level is at least at the minimum mark, then close the filler neck and start the engine. When the light bulb in the form of an oil can on the dashboard goes out, the engine can be turned off. This is necessary in order for the pump to pump oil throughout the system and the oil filter to fill with oil. Now you need to wait a few minutes again and check the engine oil level. Add oil if necessary. If the level is above the maximum mark, then the excess oil must be drained! Excess oil in the engine lubrication system can damage the oil seals as excess pressure will build up during engine operation.

It is important to remember that the oil level is checked ten minutes after the trip. During this time, the oil has time to drain into the crankcase and then the readings will be as correct as possible. In this case, the machine must be level. Checking the oil on a cold engine is also not entirely correct, since at low temperatures the oil will shrink and the readings will be incorrect.

So the engine oil has been changed. The level is set between the minimum and maximum marks. It remains to remove spilled oil from the engine and other parts and pour the used oil from the basin into the prepared container. After that, the oil can be handed over for further disposal or donated to friends who need it. Yes, used oil is still used for various purposes. For example, for heating rooms in which furnaces are used for mining. Or for timber impregnation during construction. There are many ways to use used oil. These are just the most common ways.

So, the engine oil has been changed, the waste has been poured into a container. The keys are in place. Having completed such an important procedure as engine oil change, you get not only moral satisfaction from the work done, but also save your own money! And do not forget, all oils and filters can be bought from us at!

In order to keep your car running longer, it is necessary to carry out regular maintenance. And one of the main procedures for such maintenance is changing the oil in the vehicle engine. Let's try to figure out why it is needed, how often it should be produced, and what methods exist for replacing fuel and lubricants.

No matter how trite the question of changing the oil in the engine sounds, it causes difficulty for a good third of novice motorists. Let's try to figure out why the engine oil is changed.

Motor oil

The main function that any motor fluid performs is, of course, the protection of operating mechanisms from premature wear. Enveloping the entire surface of the parts involved, the oil reduces the friction force between them. This feature allows you to increase the resource of the motor and extend its service life.

Daily vehicle operation causes constant temperature fluctuations within the propulsion system. The oil “softens” this effect, preventing the working mechanisms from overheating or freezing, but the oil itself loses its properties over time. The liquid begins to lose viscosity, its structure worsens, soot and soot formed during engine operation pollute its composition. As a result, fuel and lubricants no longer help the car, but, on the contrary, slowly disable it. Old oil will not be able to provide the proper level of anti-corrosion and wear-resistant protection, in addition, a large content of contaminants and deposits on engine mechanisms will simply make their work difficult. That is why it is so important to change the engine fluid on time.

Untimely oil change: is it dangerous?

A single violation of the frequency of changing the oil in the engine (within reasonable limits) can go unnoticed by the car. But this does not mean that the subsequent repetition of the situation will not lead to serious results. In most cases, non-compliance with the interval between changes of oil fluids causes:

• the formation of a large amount of pollution and deposits. The aging components of the oily fluid gradually begin to break down and leave behind unrecycled combustion products. As a result, the motor loses its former power, and the content of harmful impurities in the exhaust gases increases.
• wear parts. Oil loses its viscosity over time and begins to flow out of the engine through gaskets and seals. The "defenseless" parts of the operating unit begin to rub against each other with great force, raise the temperature inside the working area and deform all adjacent structural elements.

On a note! Some categories of oils do not lose, but, on the contrary, increase their viscosity over time. This fact is explained by the excessive oxidation process and the violation of the polymerization of additives, due to the wrong selection of motor oil. High density can make it difficult to start the engine, prevent efficient oil circulation, and also lead to failure of the entire propulsion system.

• failure of the turbocharger (if any) and rotor. Recycled oil has a detrimental effect on the condition of the compressor shaft and bearings. During long-term operation in "uncomfortable conditions", severe scratches and cracks appear on them, which significantly reduces their resource. Also, containing a large amount of harmful impurities and deposits, the liquid clogs the lubrication channels of the compressor unit, as a result of which it may jam.

The problems described above are far from a complete list of possible problems with outdated oil. All cases are individual, but they have one main similarity - an untimely oil change is fraught with costly repairs.

Is it necessary to change the oil filter?

Why do we need an oil change in the engine figured out, but why should it be accompanied by a filter change? At first glance, it may seem that this whim is nothing more than a marketing solution to generate more revenue. But it's not.

Proper oil change in the engine involves changing the filter. The engine is the center of the car, its heart. It is subject to serious overloads, without which the “life activity” of the car is simply impossible. At the time of temperature "jumps" on the engine, a small amount of soot is formed, which can cause serious repairs. Oil removes this soot, protecting the engine from contamination. But where does this dirt settle? In the filter.

The oil pumped through the filter is cleaned and again taken for “cleaning” carbon deposits. But if the oil filter has served its time and is heavily contaminated, then harmful impurities no longer settle in the safe zone, but accumulate in the lubricating film itself. As a result, the oil quickly becomes obsolete, and the propulsion system wears out quickly.

It is impossible to check the condition of the old filter, and its contamination can only be assessed after removal. Even if its visual inspection gives reason to believe that it is in working order, it cannot be put back. Imagine for a second that you decide to give the filter a second chance and screw it back in. Clogged, suppose, after a couple of thousand kilometers (you won’t know about it), the filter will stop collecting dirt, but will begin to deteriorate the freshly filled oil. As a result, the beneficial properties of an expensive lubricant will instantly disappear, giving way to serious engine malfunctions.

Based on the above facts, the answer to this question becomes obvious: it is necessary to change the filter at every oil change.

Frequency of engine fluid replacement

Checking the oil level

How often to change the oil in the engine is impossible to say. The frequency of changing the engine oil for each car is unique. And it is installed by vehicle manufacturers. The frequency of changing the oil in the engine is determined not only on the basis of mileage, but also on a time scale.

Take, for example, highway and city driving. It will be wrong to focus only on the mileage: you will “roll” along the highway - 10-15 thousand km in a shorter period than you will drive the same distance in urban traffic jams. The timeline helps prevent oil obsolescence and replace oil on time.

By the way, it is worth noting that the more often you pour a new lubricant under the hood, the better the car “feels”. Unfortunately, due to the cost of the procedure, not all motorists can afford it. Make it a rule to change the fluid at least once a year.

Important! If you use your car on a daily basis, do not skimp on its maintenance and strictly follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

Many motorists are mistaken, thinking that if the car has not been used for a long time, then an oil change is not needed. Even if your vehicle has stood all winter in the garage with (as you thought) new oil under the hood, you will have to change it. The fact is that if the engine has not been started for a long time, condensate forms in it, which, getting into the working mixture, increases the acidity of the environment. Such measures contribute to the rapid destruction of structural elements.

You can think about changing the oil even after buying a used car. Sellers will probably claim to have serviced the motor "literally last week," but there's no need to risk it. After draining the old fluid, be sure to flush the entire system. It would not be superfluous to ask the previous owner about the company and the marking of the oil that was poured under the hood before you.

What factors affect replacement frequency?

The frequency of changing the oil in the engine directly depends on the following factors:

• vehicle condition. Has your car left the assembly line not so long ago and is at the break-in stage? This means that its first replacement will be made within the time specified by the manufacturer. Those. about 3-5 thousand kilometers. Until the first maintenance, you should refrain from an aggressive driving style (sudden starts, braking, excessive pressing on the gas pedal). All that a car needs during the break-in period is careful gear shifting, smooth pedaling and a complete rejection of sports driving.
• driving style. By "squeezing" all the power that it is capable of out of the car, you are squeezing all the useful properties out of the oil that circulates inside the engine at breakneck speed. The jerkier and sharper your driving habits, the faster the fuel resource decreases. Those. fans of the "hot start" will have to change the engine oil more often. Otherwise, they risk being left without wheels.

• fuel quality. The condition of the oil also depends on the quality of gasoline or diesel poured into the fuel tank. A low-quality mixture burns out poorly, leaving behind a large amount of deposits, which eventually mix with the lubricating fluid and clog the engine. Filling cheap fuel at dubious gas stations is prohibited.
• the chemical basis of the liquid. The frequency of oil changes also depends on its chemical base. Low-quality mineral water needs to be replaced every 5-7 thousand kilometers, semi-synthetics should be updated every 8-9 thousand kilometers, synthetics - 10-15. Such frameworks are set by manufacturers not in order to provide themselves with guaranteed revenue, but in order to maintain the efficiency of the entire propulsion system. The more natural ingredients in the oil (as, for example, in mineral water), the faster they lose their consumer properties.
• seasonality. If you are a supporter of seasonal oils, then you need to monitor their change with special care, because you won’t be able to ride on summer grease in harsh low-temperature conditions (the engine simply won’t be able to start).
• manufacturer's recommendations. You should not neglect the requirements of the vehicle manufacturer, because the oil change interval indicated in the service book was not set at random, but was calculated based on the results of multi-stage tests.

Engine oil change procedure

With the theoretical side of the issue, everything is clear, so let's move on to the practical. The procedure itself is not complicated, the main thing is to be patient and have all the necessary tools.

If your goal is a quick engine oil change without flushing, then you should be guided by the following sequence of actions:

• We put the car on a flat surface, providing unhindered access to its lower part. The ideal option is a garage with a pit. If there is no such garage, a flyover or a room equipped with lifting mechanisms will do.

Important! The vehicle engine must be maintained at operating temperature. Those. beforehand, it is better to drive the vehicle around the city for 30-40 minutes.

• We prepare a container for draining. An old bucket can play its role. It is also recommended to prepare a canister, where the used liquid will be poured for disposal in the future.
• Remove the engine protection (if any). It is attached with 3-4 bolts.
• We unscrew the oil filler cap, the filter and take out the drain plug at the bottom of the vehicle. To dismantle and install the oil filter, it is advisable to use a special wrench with a chain.

On a note! On some plugs, an o-ring is additionally installed, which is recommended to be changed every time the engine oil is changed.

• After the drain cap is removed, wait until all the old grease has poured out. By its condition, you can understand how dirty your engine is and whether it is advisable to change the lubricant.

• Once all the engine oil has drained, we begin installing a new filter. Before screwing it, it is recommended to lubricate its o-ring. Such manipulation will ensure maximum contact of the filter with the motor system at the point of its attachment.
• Close the drain plug.
• Pour fresh grease into the neck. How much oil you need is hard to say. The amount required for the system varies from vehicle to vehicle. Most often it ranges from 3 to 5 liters. But you can’t overfill the liquid, so constantly check its level with an oil dipstick. The oil must be between the min and max marks. It is not necessary to immediately fill the engine with the required volume of oil: first reach the min mark, then leave the car alone for 10-15 minutes. During this time, the protective film will spread over the work surface and take its usual place. After this procedure, add the required amount of fluid, checking its level with a dipstick.
• Screw on the filler cap and start the engine. The first few seconds of engine operation, the oil pressure light on the dashboard will be on, but then, when the oil pump is fully operational, it will turn off. While the car is idling, carefully inspect the filter and plug installation sites for smudges. If all is well, then you can go to the road. After a couple of tens of kilometers, it is recommended to re-look under the vehicle and make sure that the structure is tight.

Express change of engine oil in the engine

If you don’t like the traditional way of changing the oil, you can use another way. It is called an express engine oil change. Its essence lies in the use of an autonomous oil pump that pumps fluid through the dipstick hole.

Most often, this method is used by service stations. The main difference between manual devices and professional ones is the volume of pumped liquid. Manual devices, as a rule, have a small volume and are designed for one procedure, professional containers can hold up to 45 liters and allow 10-12 procedures.

Self-changing engine oil using stand-alone equipment has the following advantages:

• time saving,
• no need to crawl under the car,
• ease of procedure.

Flaws:

• high risk of breaking the tube inside the motor,
• the impossibility of completely pumping out the oily liquid.

The traditional drain of the liquid allows you to remove it in full, while the express replacement does not present such an opportunity.

Engine flush

It is recommended to flush the motor when it is planned to use products with other technical properties. In other words, if you decide to change the manufacturer, chemical base, or bought an oil with a higher or lower viscosity, then you need to familiarize yourself with the flushing procedure.

It consists of the following steps:

1. unscrew the oil filler cap and remove the drain plug.
2. We are waiting for all the grease to pour out of the engine. We do not remove the filter, but put the plug back in its place.
3. fill under the hood with flushing oil or solarium, as always, focusing on the level of the dipstick.
4. start the engine and wait 10-15 minutes. At the same time, it is impossible to gas: the flushing material, although it has some resemblance to ordinary grease, cannot provide the proper level of protection to the mechanisms.
5. after the time has elapsed, drain the liquid, change the filter and fill in the oil you already need.

Summing up

Maintenance of a diesel or gasoline engine requires special care from the car owner. If you follow the manufacturer's recommendations, change your engine oil regularly, and avoid aggressive driving, your iron horse will not be in debt. Only high-quality fuels and lubricants can increase the resource of a vehicle, therefore, when choosing mineral water, semi-synthetics or synthetics, do not focus on price and do not look for benefits. One-time savings can lead to costly repairs.

An important factor in the durability of car engine components is the timely and correct oil change. How difficult is it to change the oil in the engine without the involvement of car service employees? Almost any car owner can do it on their own.

A motorist who independently decides to change the oil in the engine must have a number of simple skills. The manufacturer's instructions and this article will help fill the gap in knowledge.

We buy consumables

Read the instructions carefully before starting work. Stock up on consumables and the necessary amount of engine oil. If you do not know your car, then we specify the oil marking recommended for this car by the manufacturer from the instruction manual.

Video - how to change the oil in the engine yourself:

You should not buy it at random points, as there is a high risk of buying a low-quality product. Pay attention to specialized car dealerships, where they can document the quality of their goods. In addition to oil, you will also need an oil filter.

Where to begin

Changing the oil will be problematic, without checking into a viewing hole, overpass or lift. It is necessary to stock up on a container suitable for collecting used oil.

You will also need to change the oil:

• oil filter wrench;
• cleaning materials;
• rubber gloves;
• lighting device (lantern, lamp-carrying);
• wrench for the drain nut.

On the oil pan we find a hole for draining the oil. A key is prepared, according to the size of the nut that closes the drain hole. A pre-stocked container is installed under the hole.

Draining old oil from a car engine

Before starting work, you need to securely fix the car. The car must be on the handbrake or parked (for cars with "automatic"). The plane on which the car is installed must be flat and solid, preventing the car from sliding to the side.

The car engine is turned off. It is worth waiting a while for the oil and engine parts to cool, this will help to avoid burns when changing it. Next, the protective panels are removed that block access to the oil pan. All the necessary tools and a container for draining “working out” are placed in an accessible place.

Then the container is installed directly under the pallet. The wrench (counterclockwise) loosens the nut that closes the drain hole. A loose nut is unscrewed by hand. It is worth checking that the o-ring located on the nut does not fall into the oil container.

Video - changing the oil in the VAZ 2114 engine:

After completely unscrewing the nut, remove it with a quick movement of the hand. We make sure that the oil flows into the container in order to avoid excessive pollution of our workplace. It is good to use fabric or paper as a bedding under the container.

After completely draining the oil, tighten the drain plug again.

Oil filter replacement

Find the location of the oil filter. We wipe its body with cleaning material. We loosen the filter manually (if possible) or with a key by turning it a couple of centimeters. We wait until the oil stops flowing. We install the drain plug exactly along the thread (to avoid damage if the plug is crooked), then tighten it tightly.

We unscrew the filter with a key, then, as it loosens, remove it by hand. We wipe the smudges with a cleaning material. We take a new filter. Having previously checked it for defects in the place of the seat. We make sure that the sealing ring from the old filter does not remain in the seat.

Video - oil change in the Audi A6 engine:

Before installing a new filter, be sure to fill it with fresh oil. The oil pump needs some time to pump fresh engine oil through the system. By pouring oil into the filter, you partially do this work for him and reduce with insufficient lubrication. The new filter is carefully placed into place. Tighten the filter with a hand and then with a wrench. We remove smudges with rags.

Pouring engine oil into the engine

We are looking for a filler neck on the engine. Unscrew the cap and pour engine oil with a funnel. The required amount of oil is indicated in the instruction manual for each specific brand of car. Let the oil sit for a while.

Video - oil change in the BMW N52 / N54 / N55 engine:

We collect all items under the car. We start the engine at low speeds. Using a flashlight or portable lamp, check the engine for oil leaks. After that, the car is carefully removed from the overpass or viewing hole.

You should not check the oil level if the car is at an angle, which is often the case on overpasses. To correctly display the oil level on the dipstick, you must install the car on a strictly horizontal surface. If the oil level is low, add it to the required mark. That's actually the whole procedure for changing the oil in a car engine.

Video - how to change the oil in the engine yourself: