We clean the engine from carbon deposits with our own hands. How to clean the engine from carbon deposits How to clean the engine from oil deposits inside

Decoking of piston rings and cleaning of carbon deposits from the engine and combustion chamber is an operation that requires regular use and can be done with your own hands without the help of a car service. Incomplete combustion of fuel leads to aging of the oil, affects its characteristics, and also forms carbon deposits, sludge, and deposits.

Reasons for the formation of deposits in the engine:

Heavy fractions of fuel;
Driving on a cold engine;
Short distance trips;
Long-term idling;
Operation at low and medium speeds;
Engine stops after a long trip at high speeds.

Coke and sludge are formed in places of the highest temperature, i.e. on the rings, valves, in the piston grooves, which causes coking of the piston rings, as a result of which the rings lose their mobility, which in turn leads to a decrease in power, increased oil consumption due to waste, increased fuel consumption, and the appearance of smoke from the exhaust pipe.

These same symptoms may indicate mechanical faults in the power unit and its wear. To make a diagnosis and identify the cause, it is necessary to do diagnostics. Most auto repair shops will ask you to check the compression.

Based on this parameter alone, it is not possible to say with certainty that the rings are coked or there is mechanical wear and needs to be repaired. Deviation from the norm of compression has its reasons and more than one. But, as a rule, it all comes down to one thing - high compression due to the presence of oil in the cylinders, small compression due to wear of the cylinder-piston group. In both cases, they will offer to disassemble the engine. Determining a state and passing a verdict based on one parameter is like pointing a finger at the sky and is reminiscent of fortune telling using coffee grounds. Let's look at an example. The rings got stuck in the piston groove and lost mobility. In this case, the compression will be less than normal, but the rings themselves are in good condition. In another case, coke clogged the groove and the rings lay directly on it and also lost mobility. In this case, the compression value will be higher than normal, and the rings will be subject to mechanical wear on the cylinder walls. Both cases do not imply intervention in the power unit by disassembling and troubleshooting, and decoking of the piston rings will come in handy. With this operation, it will be possible to remove carbon deposits and restore the mobility of the rings, as a result of which the pneumatic tightness of the cylinders will return to normal, and at the same time power, fuel and oil consumption.

Means for decoking piston rings and cleaning engine carbon deposits

Cleaning carbon deposits from the engine, valves, and combustion chamber indiscriminately using auto chemical agents, additives, and kerosene allows you to carry out this operation yourself. But not everything is so rosy. We will not describe how to do this with the help of laurel, or the use of liquid moth, kerosene and similar preparations, which usually contain kerosene and acetone. The design of the power unit and the arrangement of the cylinders do not always allow this to be done efficiently and without removing the engine. The row arrangement is the most favorable for this operation. You can also set the pistons to a central position and achieve distribution of the product over all surfaces. The same cannot be said in the case of a V-shaped, and even more so an opposed, arrangement of cylinders. The decoking and deposit cleaning agent will always act only on one side - the side of the inclination of the cylinder angle. In addition, we must not forget that if the rings are tightly and deeply embedded in the piston groove, then most of the chemicals, when introduced into the cylinder through the spark plug hole, will slip past the rings, along the cylinder walls into the pan. In this case there will be no effect. In addition, some pallets are painted on the inside, and chemical compounds can react and corrode the paint, as a result of which flakes of peeling paint can clog the oil receiver mesh, which in turn will lead to a drop in pressure in the oil system and failure of the entire power unit . Thus, harmless at first glance, independent decoking of piston rings and cleaning the engine of carbon deposits using auto chemicals can lead to disastrous results.

The next method is old-fashioned and proven, without adding liquids and additives, to allow the engine to run under load at high speeds.

This safe method helps in case of mild carbon formation and restores the mobility of the rings. The disadvantages include a possible photo as a souvenir for exceeding the speed limit.

If flushing, getting into the oil, allows you to clean the engine of all types of deposits, while recycling them, and not spreading them throughout the entire oil system, restoring the elasticity of oil seals and rubber seals, on the one hand, then the catalyst, entering the combustion chamber along with the fuel, ensures complete combustion of fuel, including heavy fractions, as a result of which the combustion rate and its temperature increase, which allows you to burn out those deposits and carbon deposits that no chemical agent can clean, on the other hand. The result of the complex effect is complete decoking of the piston rings and cleaning of the engine, pistons, combustion chamber and valves from carbon deposits. Both products are safe. Their effectiveness has been proven in practice. The Service-S-Auto technical center shared the results of using products for cleaning the engine and combustion chamber using the example of a 2006 Subaru Impreza, with a 1.5-liter boxer engine, mileage 76,000 km. At the time of the visit, the Subaru had increased oil and fuel consumption and smoke. The compression results were: 8, 11, 11, 8. After applying the flush and catalyst, the compression became 12, 11.5, 11.5, 12. An alternative for the boxer engine is only with removing the engine.

The formation of soot and coke in a gasoline or diesel engine is a natural process under conditions of high combustion temperatures of the fuel-air mixture in a closed chamber. In fact, soot is a layer of unburnt deposits on the walls of the combustion chamber of the power unit. Over time, carbon formation and coking of the engine progresses, at a certain point becoming the cause of a number of malfunctions and malfunctions.

Next, we will look at the main symptoms by which you can determine the coking of the engine and the need for further cleaning of the cylinders from coke, and we will also talk about how and how to clean the engine from carbon deposits with your own hands.

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Carbon deposits in the engine: main signs

As already mentioned, carbon deposits and coke are formed in the combustion chamber during fuel combustion. Coke in the engine is dense deposits on the surface of the walls of the working chamber. Such deposits occur under the influence of high temperatures in the absence of sufficient air.

Soot is small crumbly fractions of the same coke, which are separated from the total mass. In addition to engine coking, engine oil enters the combustion chamber. Typically, lubricant can enter the cylinder through the piston rings, and also in the event of certain problems. In the second case, valve seals (oil seals) become a common problem.

In the list of main malfunctions that occur when the engine becomes coked, experts note the following:

the engine does not start well when cold;
after starting, the motor and/or is observed;
in some cases, the exhaust has a specific burning smell;
oil consumption increases;
the engine loses power;
excessive fuel consumption is observed;
At high speeds, engine overheating may occur;

During gas changes, especially on a car with a faulty or removed catalyst, you may notice burning particles flying out of the exhaust pipe. Also, the car reacts sluggishly to pressing the gas pedal, the engine “does not pull” under load, etc.

Engine coking: possible consequences

It is quite obvious that carbon deposits reduce efficiency and deteriorate the overall performance of the engine. In parallel with this, there is a risk of serious damage to the internal combustion engine. For example, critical situations can be considered those when the rings are heavily coked or the short-circuit effect () occurs. In the first case, the valve cannot close completely due to a thick layer of carbon deposits, a decrease in compression in the engine occurs, the engine begins to stall and starts poorly. Quite often, which leads to expensive repairs.

As for short circuit, this phenomenon causes uncontrolled ignition of the mixture in the engine cylinders from smoldering carbon deposits. In other words, the charge will ignite not from an ignition spark in a gasoline engine or from contact with air heated by compression, but spontaneously. As a result, the motor overheats, causing significant damage, etc.

To prevent negative consequences, it is recommended to carry out periodic cleaning for preventive purposes, that is, to prevent heavy accumulation of deposits. Also, after the first symptoms appear, you can clean an already coked engine from carbon deposits, that is, carry out the procedure for decoking the engine. Let's take a closer look at how to clean carbon deposits in the engine yourself.

Methods for flushing the engine from soot and coke

Let's start with the fact that the engine can be cleaned in two ways, which can be divided into the following:

cleaning the engine using active chemicals;
mechanical removal of coke deposits after disassembling the internal combustion engine and subsequent washing;

Let us immediately note that we will not focus on flushing oils and various fuel additives (even to the point of connecting the engine to a separate tank with a special cleaning agent to bypass the fuel tank). The fact is that these solutions help keep the fuel system, lubrication system, combustion chamber and other “insides” of the engine relatively clean only in the case of new or initially clean engines (for example, units after a complete overhaul). If the engine has already been coked, then such methods will not bring the desired effect and can only worsen the situation.

To clean the internal combustion engine from carbon deposits, it is necessary to carry out a more “strict” procedure for decoking the piston rings and the engine, clean the combustion chamber as efficiently as possible, etc. Let us add that this method of cleaning the engine from coke and deposits is very popular among car enthusiasts due to the fact that it avoids disassembling the engine.

First, you will need to unscrew the spark plugs on gasoline or diesel engines.
Next, you need to pour a special liquid (the so-called decarbonizer) into the engine cylinders through the spark plug wells.
Then the unit with the cleaning solution filled is left for several hours. The result is a coke and carbon cleaner that softens engine deposits.
After screwing in the spark plugs and further starting the engine after decoking, the washed soot simply burns out in the cylinders.

The final stage of flushing the internal combustion engine is the mandatory replacement of the engine oil and oil filter, since the aggressive composition enters the engine crankcase and makes the filled oil unsuitable for use.

You can read more about the engine decarbonization procedure in, where the process of cleaning the engine from carbon deposits is described in detail using the example of a diesel engine. We also note that various products for decoking piston rings and cleaning the combustion chamber are available for sale. Among domestic consumers, a composition called “Lavr” has gained wide popularity.

Now let's talk about mechanical cleaning. This method allows you to achieve maximum engine cleanliness, and also does not have the disadvantages that are present when cleaning with “chemicals”. In other words, the motor is disassembled, after which coke and carbon deposits are removed from the surfaces manually, using tools, grinding, and also using active detergents. This approach allows you to clean not only rings and individual sections of the combustion chamber, but also valves, as well as other hard-to-reach elements. At the same time, the oil channels of the engine lubrication system are washed, the cavities in the crankcase, the oil receiver, the oil receiver mesh filter, etc. are cleaned.

What's the result?

It is quite obvious that the main disadvantage of the mechanical method is the complexity and impressive amount of work. For this reason, drivers rarely agree to disassemble the engine only to clean the unit from carbon deposits and coke deposits. More often, this procedure is performed during an engine overhaul.

Finally, I would like to add that it is highly advisable to consult with engine mechanics before you decide to clean the engine of coke and flush the combustion chambers of carbon deposits. The fact is that even the most aggressive chemistry does not completely remove deposits.

As a result, there is a risk of clogging the channels with particles separated from the total mass. Otherwise, in some cases it is better not to clean the engine at all, which will allow it to continue to be used for some time. If you try to clean such an engine from carbon deposits with special cleaners, then the likelihood of its immediate subsequent repair greatly increases.

Main signs of engine deposits

Carbon deposits and coke are the main products during the combustion of low-quality fuel. Under the influence of high temperature, when the amount of air is not enough to completely burn the fuel-air mixture, coke is formed. It settles in the form of dense deposits on the surface of the walls of the combustion chamber. Small particles separated from the coke form carbon deposits.

An important role in carbon formation is played by motor oil, which, if the tightness of the engine components (piston rings, valve seals) is insufficient, enters the combustion chamber. By burning with fuel, oil accelerates the process of deposit formation.

Carbon deposits in the engine lead to the following main malfunctions:

problems with cold starting of the engine;
when the engine is running, it smokes and runs unstable;
exhaust gases mixed with burning;
increased oil consumption;
loss of power;
increased fuel consumption;
engine detonation and overheating at high speeds

Possible consequences of carbon deposits in the engine

It not only reduces operating efficiency, deteriorates overall performance, leads to high consumption of fuels and lubricants, but also increases the risk of serious engine damage and, as a result, expensive repairs. Main possible examples of such consequences:

Formation of carbon deposits on the valves - the valve cannot close completely.
deposits on the rings - ring bedding occurs.
potassium ignition effect - uncontrolled ignition of the mixture from smoldering.

All of these examples can lead to critical situations. If the valves and rings are heavily coked, the valve does not close completely, the rings become stuck, and compression in the engine decreases. As a result, the engine starts poorly, malfunctions, valves burn out - there is a need for expensive repairs.

Potassium ignition provokes uncontrolled ignition of the fuel-air mixture in the cylinders. Fuel ignites uncontrollably; the reason for this behavior is smoldering carbon deposits that ignite gasoline or diesel fuel. The engine overheats, causing increased wear on parts of the power unit, fuel system, and exhaust system.

To protect the engine from negative consequences, it is necessary to periodically flush it from accumulated deposits and toxins. After characteristic signs appear, you can clean the already clogged motor. Let's look at how to clean carbon deposits in the engine yourself.

Carbon deposits and coke are the main ways to get rid of them from an engine

There are two main options that can be used to clean the motor, let's look at each of them:

clean the power unit with any flushing agent;
disassemble the engine and mechanically remove deposits

As for flushing oils and fuel additives, this cleaning will remove small deposits in the fuel system, lubrication system, combustion chamber and other places only if the contamination is insignificant. Otherwise, in case of severe contamination, such additives will not wash away the deposits and the cleaning effect will not be achieved. Sometimes you can even make the situation worse and cause harm.

Many motorists are interested in the question of how to flush the engine from carbon deposits without disassembling it? Therefore, we will consider a method in which the unit does not need to be disassembled.

We unscrew the spark plugs on gasoline cars, or potassium plugs on diesel cars.
We pour a special “decarbonization” liquid into the cylinders through the spark plug wells.
We wait several hours - the cleaner softens the deposits.
We screw in the spark plugs and start the engine. The softened carbon burns out and is removed from the cylinders.

After this procedure, you cannot use the oil and oil filter remaining in the engine; they must be replaced. Getting into the engine crankcase, the washed composition saturates the oil and filter with abrasive particles that are aggressive towards the cylinders.

To achieve the maximum effect of engine cleanliness, it is necessary to use a mechanical cleaning method. Its principle is simple - the motor is disassembled and cleaned of carbon deposits and coke manually using an abrasive tool. Then it is washed with detergents with high surface activity. This method allows you to clean all hard-to-reach engine elements, including lubricant supply channels and other elements.

Advantages of engine cleaning without disassembly

Obviously, the main advantage is the absence of the need to disassemble the power unit. Mechanical disassembly is a complex and time-consuming process that requires an impressive amount of work. Carrying it out just for the sake of removing carbon deposits is inappropriate. This procedure is typical when performing major engine repairs.

It is worth noting that before performing the cleaning procedure, you should seek advice from professional mechanics. A completely cleaned engine is beyond the power of even very strong chemicals, and its incorrect use can cause damage.

The most common risk is clogging of the channels with particles separated from carbon deposits. Sometimes, in such a development of events, it is better not to touch the engine - this will allow it to be used for some more time. Otherwise, when you try to wash it, the likelihood of subsequent repairs is very high.

During operation of a car engine, carbon deposits gradually form on its valves, the piston bottom, on the walls of the combustion chambers and other places. It is almost impossible to avoid this process, but, under certain conditions, carbon deposits form especially intensively. The reason for this may be the use of, incorrect carburetor adjustment, poor filtration of air entering the carburetor, engine malfunctions, etc.

What is soot and its consequences

Carbon deposits are unburnt particles of fuel, dust, or motor oil that have entered the combustion chambers. Particularly dangerous is carbon deposits, which are deposited in the form of a thick layer. The fact is that it has a rather low thermal conductivity, and a thick soot crust can significantly worsen the process of removing excess heat from engine parts, thereby disrupting the normal thermal regime of its operation.

At the same time, engine parts begin to wear out much more intensively, which shortens their service life. Also, carbon deposits in combustion chambers can cause such a dangerous phenomenon for the engine as glow ignition, when the fuel-air mixture is ignited not by a spark plug spark at a given moment, but in a random order, by overheated carbon particles, which increases the risk of breakdown engine.

How to remove carbon deposits

It should be noted that in most cases, under conditions that are close to ideal, carbon deposits in the engine are removed spontaneously; to do this, you need to periodically drive the car for about 100 km at high speed, having previously filled it with high-quality gasoline. When the engine operates in such an intensive mode, carbon deposits will be removed. Of course, it will not be possible to remove large deposits of carbon deposits, especially old ones, in this way, and in this case, you can resort to other methods that do not involve disassembling the engine.

Plaque removal solution

One of these methods can be called chemical, and it is advisable to time the removal of carbon deposits using this method to coincide with the next engine oil change. You need to prepare a solution by mixing two parts acetone, one part kerosene and one part motor oil. This solution is poured into all engine cylinders through the spark plug holes. Next, the spark plugs are installed in place, and the engine crankshaft is turned several times, for example, using the starting handle. The solution remains in the cylinders for 24 hours, after which the spark plugs are unscrewed and the engine crankshaft is turned again about 10 times in order to “blow out” the cylinders. After this, the spark plugs are washed with gasoline, dried and installed on the engine. Next, replace the engine oil in the engine, as well as the oil filter, in the usual manner, in accordance with the instructions in the vehicle’s operating instructions. The car is filled with high-quality fuel and driven at high speed on a good road. Usually, after driving the first 100 km, carbon deposits from the engine are almost completely removed. It should be taken into account that in this case, the engine oil may become heavily contaminated with carbon deposits, and it will be necessary to replace it again after a run of 500 km. from the moment of carbon deposit removal.

Rubber tube method

There are other ways to remove carbon deposits. For example, you need to insert a needle from an injection system into a rubber tube that runs from the vacuum regulator to the carburetor, with a tube from the same system put on it. Dip the other end of this tube into a small container of water. Due to the vacuum formed in the vacuum regulator, water from the container will be sucked into the carburetor and will enter the engine cylinders along with the fuel mixture. It is better to perform this operation with the engine running so that there are no difficulties starting it. Water vapor will help soften the carbon deposits and quickly remove them from the engine; it is enough to let the engine run for about 10 minutes “on the water”.

Cleaning method using highly effective additives

If you don’t have time to deal with solutions and use various tubes, you can always use auto chemicals from Germany, in a full range, presented in the window of our store. You will always find the right fuel additive and once and for all get rid of problems associated with soot and deposits in your car’s engine. The additives have very high cleaning power and can handle even the most contaminated areas of gasoline systems without any problems.

Effective engine flushing. Engine cleaning methods that actually work

How to keep the engine lubrication system clean for many years. After all, this factor is one of the most important for the health of the engine when operating a car. Why is this needed, let's figure it out. Sludge, slag, carbon - all this is the result of the combustion process in the engine. When we buy a car, due to lack of time, money, etc., we simply forget about proper car maintenance. And this drags on for a long time, during which sediment in the form of combustion products settles on the engine parts. Due to this, their friction increases - metal on metal, and destruction occurs accordingly.

The oil filter does not always cope with its task and microparticles that do not fall under the filter begin to circulate in the engine, causing microscopic scratches and damage to the cylinder walls and bearings. Valves begin to stick, hydraulic compensators knock, and the operation of the pistons is disrupted, causing engine vibrations. Then the car owner wonders why the engine consumes liters of oil per 1000 km. Where does such high fuel consumption come from? Here is the result of the car owner’s inaction, see the picture below. This motor has not even completed 30,000 km. Look at the condition it's in.

Why flush the engine?

What should I do, you ask?! You don’t have to do anything, you just have to wash it, that’s all.
Many people are skeptical about engine flushing, for good reason. A lot of junk has appeared on the market, supposedly washing products that contain an ultra-high solvent and are in no way suitable for the engine. Don't pay attention to cheap washes.

DO NOT grab the first one you see off the store shelf.
A good flush is a product that will restore compression in the engine cylinders, effectively remove sludge and dirt, and not only allow it to fall off, but also dissolve it, so that it does not clog the channels and is easily removed from the mixture system.
Also, a good flush should cover all microscopic defects in the engine, and restore both the oil seals and all rubber seals.

Pros and cons of engine flushes.

Poor flushing:
- Corrosion of the oil seal as a result of engine leakage
- Loss of compression
- Increased oil consumption
- loss of power
- clogged channels in the engine

Pros of a good flush:
- Restored engine compression (You can do a test before and after use)
- reduction of fuel and oil consumption
- Sludge removal
- The car becomes more accommodating and lighter
- Engine noise is reduced
- Has TUV RUF ROHS approval

Methods for cleaning a car engine

Let's look at several ways to effectively clean the engine of carbon deposits and sludge.

1. In spare parts stores you can find a product such as, for example, motor oil with a viscosity of SAE 40. This is a seasonal summer product that has a fairly high cleaning power and effectively cleans the engine.

Drain the used engine oil and refill with this oil without changing the oil filter. Start the engine and idle for about 15-30 minutes, you can take it for a ride a little.
Then drain the oil, most likely it will be black, as it will collect all the dirt that has collected on the walls, parts, etc. Repeat everything done previously until the color of the oil is the same as you poured it.

This is one of the best ways to flush the engine, and after the clean oil is drained, you will be sure that the engine is clean.
Result. After this method of flushing the engine of a problematic 1992 Ford Explorer, oil and fuel consumption decreased, the engine began to run quieter, the car became smoother and more responsive.

2. The second way is to wash the engine well.
Flushing from Liqui Moly Engine flush is popular among the common people and has long deserved recognition. It is poured into the engine with used oil, the engine warms up for about 10 minutes and then drained. Excellent product, easy to use, and most importantly effective.

Always take it as a consumable when changing engine oil. Long-term flushing is also suitable here if everything is really bad.

Fill it up 300 km away. before the shift, the cleaning will already begin.

Lambda Oil Primer.

Here is another interesting and super effective thing for flushing a car engine - Lambda Oil Primer.

This product is approved by TUV, ROHS and VAG. Works well in restoring engine compression. Many who used it were simply eager to do a compression test before and after use. The results were great after washing. Ideal cleanliness and operation of the motor, as well as its subsequent protection.
Used in gasoline and diesel engines. One of the best premium washes in the world.

As for the product characteristics:
Effectively cleans the oil lubrication system, preventing problems associated with the accumulation of sludge, dirt, and deposits. After cleaning, clean oil in a clean engine is guaranteed for many kilometers.
It is used in both engines and gearboxes and differentials. Contains a lubricant that protects mechanical parts during the cleaning process.
Suitable for all types of modern and old gasoline engines. and design engines. added to any motor oil.