Connecting DRL Megane 2. Installing Daytime Running Lights (DRL) on Renault Megane. Passive safety requirements

As many people know, Renault Megan 3 has DRL lamps in the headlight, but not all of them are connected and working. In some trim levels, DRL can be turned on through the on-board computer.

There are several ways to connect DRLs to Renault Megane - you can connect them in parallel with the dimensions or using a separate relay so that the DRL lamps on Megane turn on after the ignition is turned on.

In this photo report, we will consider connection of DRL using a relay and installing LED lamps.

DRL lamps have a base - P21W

The relay is required like this (in any parts store)

5 pin

You will also need:

terminal
power cord and corrugation - about 2 meters
female-male connector
fuse
soldering iron and how to use it

Relay connection diagram:

The fuse and relay housing itself can be hidden in the relay box under the hood on the left side. In the same place, take the main one (+), first check that it is after the ignition is turned on. Then you assemble and solder according to the scheme. You check your work.

Red indicates "plus" from the dimensions to the DRL. Also in the photo is marked in blue "signal", it is "pick up" on the left side.

Red - Power supply "+ 12V" for DRL - we carry out from the right headlight to the left headlight (to the connector), Blue - in the photo is the right headlight (it was inconvenient to take a picture of the left one), but we take the contact from the dimensions to the relay and hook it from the LEFT headlight!

We lead the bare end of the wire (+ 12V for DRL) from the RIGHT headlight through the radiator panel and hook it to the LEFT headlight according to the same principle. And the same wire will go to the relay, only from the LEFT headlight we take the signal wire from the dimensions and lead to the relay, see the diagram below.

Relay connection diagram:

You can take the mass even from the battery, but keep in mind that you still need to lead this wire to the relay.

The fuse and relay case itself in this report, the author "hid" in the relay box, black, on the left side. In it, we take the main plus, having previously called, so that it turns on only when the ignition is turned on.

And now the procedure for working with the block is more detailed:

Green dotted line - The wiring that enters the block is laid by us, it hides in the cable channel, only "+ 12V" going to the DRL and "+ 12V" signal from the dimensions, taken by us from the stamp of the LEFT headlight. We're taking them to the relay!

We hide the relay and fuse box in the relay and fuse box

By the numbers: 1. Green — "+12V" from the running engine, yellow wiring from the white terminal, solder and pull through the fuse to the relay; 2. Blue - "-", we also take the ground from the terminals and pull it to the relay; 3. Lilac - signal "+" from the dimensions, pull to the relay, so that when the dimensions or the near DRL are turned on, they turn off; 4. Red - supply "+ 12V" we lead from the relay to the DRL lamps.

For comparison, the light of a simple lamp and LED

In this case, LED lamps are everywhere.

Photo and diagram: Lomaker01 (Drive2.ru)

So, today the first and, I hope, not the last (I think there will be improvements) box for daylight (navigation lights) was assembled as a result. Shim (bought ready-made) but redid it, so it is not suitable for a car, the circuit turned out to be its own, but this has nothing to do with installation.

The algorithm is the following.

1. The car is turned on (it’s light outside, the dimensions are turned off), the main beam is automatically turned on in the “full light” (Actually, much less). Dimensions, license plate lights, instrument panels, buttons do not light up.

2. The car was turned off, everything went out.

3. If the dimensions (near) are turned on or the light sensor turns on the dipped (with dimensions), the entire head light switches to normal operation.

4. Blinking high beam mode saved.

+(pros)
1. The main beam is set parallel to the ground (unlike the low beam and PTF), that is, it can be seen at a greater distance
2. The resource of low beam lamps is higher, since they are used only at night.
3. The life of high beam lamps is high, as they burn at reduced voltage.
4. Everything works in the machine, nothing needs to be turned on / off.
5. The probability of melting low beam lenses is small
6. etc

-(minuses)
1. Must be installed
2. The price is quite high

The device is a black plastic box approximately 40*70*20mm in size. There are 6 wires coming out of it.
1. +12V after ignition, through a fuse
2. +12V dimensions
3. low voltage on high beam (there are 2 of them)
4. mass.
5. Oil pressure sensor (or handbrake)

Connection
Open the hood and unscrew the two bolts (torx T30). Remove the black cover (latch on the side of the battery) and see 2 connectors (white and gray)

White connector R436 (pinout may differ depending on the configuration and year of manufacture)

1 black (2 wires)
3 purple (2 wires)
5 black (2 wires)
7 green (2 wires)
9 beige
10 white
11 black (2 wires)
12 orange (for glass washer)
13 green (for glass washer)
14 beige
15 orange
16 beige (2 wires)
17 green

The gray connector is R9 there should be 4 wires
1 0.35 LPD + RIGHT SIDE LIGHT R/W FUSE
2 0.5 8E FOG LIGHT "+" LEFT > RESISTOR
3 0.5 8F "+" RIGHT FOGLIGHT > RESISTOR
4 0.35 LPG + LEFT SIDE LIGHT R/W FUSE
+12 Volts after ignition, we take according to the electrical circuit here:

Here is the yellow wire we need (red arrow) and the oil pressure sensor (blue arrow). I myself did not get the block 1337 (black box), but picked up the wire like this. True, I had to unscrew and move the platform under the battery.

About connection.

I connected using slotted couplers (red boxes in the photo). They allow you to connect to passing wires quickly and reliably. Next, we connect the mass, 2 distant and dimensions. Putting everything neatly

We check everything works. (distance about 25m, crouched):

1 - near (almost invisible), 2 - standard far (with near), 3 - reduced voltage, 4 - even less (3 Volts)

I am satisfied with the result, everything works as planned, so as not to blind, we set the voltage to 3 Volts (last photo), then the power of 2 lamps is only about 7 watts.

I also liked that when you turn off the engine, the "walkers" immediately go out, unlike the neighbor, which turns off only when you open the door.

Scheme

End.

Mileage on DRL ~ 25 thousand km flight is excellent.

By law, daytime running lights (DRLs) must be present on all vehicles. If they are not, then the driver is obliged to use the light of the dipped or fog lights.

Traffic police officers are fined for non-compliance with the provisions on the use of DRLs, and they also have the right to punish you for non-compliance of navigation lights with regulatory requirements.

Since 2011, European cars have been equipped with regular DRLs. What to do with cars that were produced earlier? There are two ways to solve the problem. The first is to contact a service station or car repair shop, the second is to do the installation yourself. How to install daytime running lights on a Renault Logan car yourself?

The use of additional optics primarily solves the problem of traffic safety on roads. Cars with headlights on are more noticeable, which helps drivers better navigate the traffic situation and avoid a traffic accident.

The main difference between DRLs and car headlights is the use of LEDs.. They are more durable and economical. Structurally, they are performed differently. From 4 to 8 LEDs are placed in a rectangular or round case. Running lights of any shape are easy to install on a car.

After reviewing the pages of automotive forums, we conclude: daytime LED headlights are more aesthetically pleasing than the light from incandescent lamps. Fuel economy and other benefits that the authors talk about in their posts are so minimal that you should not pay attention to it.

The choice of DRL for Renault Logan

If you decide to install DRL on your Renault Logan, then go to a car dealership and choose a kit. A large number of manufacturers are represented in the market for automotive parts and accessories. The price for a set ranges from 1400 to 7000 rubles. All sets can be divided into three categories:

A budget option. Make your own running lights. To do this, we buy a strip with LEDs plus 5 meters of wire and make DRLs with handles. But this is the most extreme case, and such lights will not last long.
The best option. We offer you to pay attention to the running lights from Sho Me DRL series. The name of the company has been known to Russian motorists for a long time. Its products have positive reviews, in the presence of different kits. They cost from 1400 to 3000 rubles. Installation requires minimal knowledge of vehicle electrical equipment.
Luxury option. There are also expensive kits on the shelves of car accessories stores. Their cost is from 3000 rubles. A distinctive feature is the presence of an intelligent module. It controls the on and off of the LEDs. The installation of such a kit is best done at a specialized service station.

Below we will analyze in detail the process of installing DRL on Renault Logan with our own hands. We will upgrade the car according to the best option.

Installation

There are no fog lights in the basic configuration of the French car, but there is a place for them in the front bumper. For Renault Logan, a round body is ideal. Installing such DRLs is not difficult.

There are several options for connecting to the electrical circuit of the car. The main thing is to ensure that the DRLs work when the engine is started and the lights turn off when the headlights are turned on. More expensive models are equipped with an intelligent on/off switch. Consider connecting without a module. Such a scheme will ensure that the engine is turned on when the engine is started, and it will be necessary to turn it off manually using a button installed in the passenger compartment.

There are requirements for the location of additional LED lights. They must be observed. According to the regulations, running lights are placed at a height of 200 to 1300 mm. from the earth. The minimum distance between them is 600 mm. From the overall edge, the lights are located at a distance of 400 mm.

Necessary tools and materials

To upgrade the car, prepare:

thermal insulation;
screwdriver;
self-tapping screws;
sealant;
insulating tape;
plastic clamps;
on/off button;
5-pin relay (it is often used when installing an alarm);
car fuse with wires;
installation kit for daytime running lights.

Mounting

Open the hood, find the relay mounting block. It is located on the right, next to the battery.
Disconnect the minus terminal from the battery.
Connect the prepared relay to the fuel pump circuit. Apply 12 volts to the relay through the fuse from the positive battery terminal.
Connect ground to relay.
Install DRL in the front bumper.
On a note. Before installing navigation lights, treat the housing with a sealant - this will increase their resistance to moisture and extend their service life.
Connect the wires from the LED lights to the relay.
Lay the wiring for the button from the engine compartment to the passenger compartment through the rubber plug.
Install the button in the front panel and connect the wiring.

Installation video

We suggest watching a video on installing DRL on a Renault Logan car so that there are no problems during installation. It will help you get the job done right.

Other connection schemes

Alternative circuits are used to connect LED lights to Renault Logan. For example, connection through the steering column switch for low beam, high beam and ignition switch. In this case, it will not be necessary to manually turn off the running lights when the headlights are turned on.

The DRL off button is often placed under the parking brake lever. This method is popular among fans of logans.

Operation and maintenance

Ready-made kits do not need special maintenance, and their service life is long. Correct switching of the daytime running lights will not cause a conflict in the car's electrical circuit. Carefully insulate the connections and securely fasten the wiring with plastic clamps.

In conclusion, I would like to note that the use of additional LED lighting does not affect the wear of high and low beam headlights and does not reduce the life of expensive xenon lamps. Installing additional LEDs is more optional than mandatory. And installing DRLs with your own hands does not violate the current traffic rules if it is carried out in accordance with regulatory requirements.

On the territory of the Russian Federation, for more than 8 years, amendments to the rules of the road (SDA) have been in force, according to which a moving vehicle during daylight hours must be indicated by dipped beam headlights, fog lights (PTF) or daytime running lights (DRL). The use of head and fog lamps for these purposes has a number of disadvantages. Therefore, drivers prefer to buy ready-made navigation light modules and install them on their own in their car. How to properly connect daytime running lights so that their operation is safe and does not contradict applicable laws?

The nuances of turning on running lights

The main requirements regarding the installation, technical parameters and connection of navigation lights are listed in paragraph 6.19 of GOST R 41.48-2004. In particular, the electrical functional diagram of the DRL must be assembled in such a way that the running lights automatically turn on when the ignition key is turned (engine start). At the same time, they should automatically turn off if the headlights are turned on.

Paragraph 5.12 of this standard states that the headlights (FGS) should be turned on only after the dimensions are turned on, with the exception of short-term warning signals. When connecting DRLs independently, this feature must be taken into account.

The correct connection of DRL is not limited to a well-thought-out functional diagram. It's time to think about the stabilization unit for LEDs. In the running lights themselves, the resistors act as a current limiter, however, due to voltage drops, the resistors cannot limit the current at the same level. That is why a voltage stabilizer in the navigation lights connection circuit is essential. Otherwise, the service life of LED DRL modules is significantly reduced due to constant changes in on-board voltage. Some motorists say that you can connect running lights without a stabilizer.

Connecting and installing an LED driver is a waste of time, because DRLs on LEDs regularly shine for months without any stabilization ...

However, this assertion is easy to dispute. The fact is that with each power surge, more than 12 V appears on the LED module, the direct current through the LEDs exceeds the nominal value, which leads to overheating of the radiating crystal. The brightness of the LEDs decreases, such DRLs will no longer be able to fulfill their immediate task - to warn drivers of oncoming vehicles from afar, and over time they will completely flicker and fail.

Using LED DRLs without a voltage stabilizer means throwing away at least a few hundred rubles every year on new modules and wasting time replacing them.

For ease of understanding, the circuits below are shown without the use of a stabilizer.

The simplest circuit

The simplest scheme for switching on DRL when starting the engine is shown in the figure. The positive wire is connected to the "+" terminal of the ignition switch. The negative wire is attached to the machine body in a convenient place. In this form, the scheme has a significant drawback. LED daytime running lights will emit light as long as the ignition key is turned. In addition, their work is not coordinated with the work of the other headlights, which means that they do not meet the requirements of GOST.

Switching on through the dimensions or dipped beam

The second version of the DRL connection scheme involves using the power supply circuit of the marker light bulb. To do this, the positive wire from the navigation lights is directly connected to the "+" from the battery. In turn, the negative wire is connected to the "+" side light, which is currently electrically neutral. As a result, the following current flow path is formed: from the “+” battery through the LEDs to the size, and then through the light bulb to the case, which serves as the minus of the entire circuit. Due to the low current consumption (tens of mA), the LEDs begin to glow, and the lamp coil remains extinguished.
If the driver turns on the side lights, then +12 V appears on the plus side of the marker, the potentials on the DRL wires are equalized and the LEDs go out. The circuit goes into normal mode, that is, current flows through the side light bulbs.

This circuit solution has several disadvantages:

running lights remain in operation when the engine is turned off, which is contrary to current regulations;
the circuit will not work if LEDs are also installed in the dimensions;
the circuit will not work correctly if powerful SMD LEDs are placed in the DRL, the rated current of which is commensurate with the current of the light bulb;
for safety reasons, an additional fuse must be installed.

This connection method can be improved by connecting the positive wire of the LED module not to the “+” of the battery, but to the “+” of the ignition switch, thereby getting rid of the first drawback.
Some motorists use circuits for switching on running lights through a low beam lamp. That is, when the dipped beam is turned on, the DRLs automatically go out, and in other cases they work. In addition to the above disadvantages, this method does not comply with GOST R 41.48-2004 and traffic regulations.

When the car is parked at night, parking lights are used to indicate it, the use of DRL traffic rules is prohibited.

Connection via 4 contact relay from generator or oil sensor

The two following methods have a common basis and involve the operation of daytime running lights only after the engine is started. The DRL switching circuit from the generator is based on switching four contact relays and a reed switch.
DRL relay contacts are connected as follows:

85 - on the positive wire to the dimensions;
86 - to any output of the reed switch;
87 and the second output of the reed switch - to the "+" of the battery.

After checking the reliability of all contacts, proceed to the setting. To do this, start the engine and, moving the reed switch near the generator, achieve its operation and a stable glow of the DRL. Then the reed switch is hidden in a thermotube and fixed in the found place with the help of nylon ties.

At the moment of starting the engine, and then the generator, the contacts of the reed switch and the relay are closed, supplying voltage to the LEDs of the running lights. At the same time, the indicator lamps remain off, since the current through the relay coil is small to ignite them.

In the absence of a reed switch, it is possible to power the DRL from the oil pressure sensor. In this case, the 86th contact is connected to an oil pressure lamp. The rest of the circuitry is duplicated.
Both schemes have a common drawback. They cannot be used if LEDs are installed in the dimensions.

Connection via 5 pin relay

Now it's time to learn how to connect running lights through a five-pin relay. The scheme is the most universal, and is assembled in order to eliminate the shortcomings of the previous options.
First, about connecting the relay for DRL:

30 - to the positive terminals of the LED modules;
85 - on the positive wire of the marker lamp;
86 - on the car body;
87a - to "+" from the ignition switch;
87 - do not connect (isolate).

The circuit with five contact relays works as follows. When the key is turned, +12 V is supplied to the DRL, thereby turning them on. If you turn on the side lights or headlights, the relay will open contact 87a and close the inactive contact 87. As a result, the DRL will go out and the dimensions will turn on. The circuit fully complies with the requirements of GOST and SDA and can work with side lights even based on LEDs.

However, the scheme still has one negative point - DRLs will turn on immediately after turning the ignition switch. That is, if you turn the key in the ignition, but do not start the car, the DRLs will burn.

Despite the existing drawback, the circuit is quite successful, but in order to properly connect the DRL through a five-pin relay, it will be necessary to supplement the circuit with a voltage stabilizer.

This switching option is interesting in that the current flow path through the running lights is independent. This allows you to install light sources of any type and power in the headlights and DRLs.

DRL control unit

The most reliable and simplest is the option of connecting DRLs without a relay, but using a special running lights control unit. It ensures that the DRL is turned on after starting the engine, guarantees safe operation, protects against overloads and can be installed on cars with any type of lamps, including LED ones.

Unfortunately, among the whole variety of industrially manufactured DRL blocks, the vast majority does not comply with GOST and has a mediocre build quality.

This concerns, first of all, products from AliExpress, which do not meet the requirements in almost all respects.

Among all the variety, only 2 options can be noted: the Russian DayLight + DRL control unit and German products from Philips and Osram. The DayLight+ control unit was developed by the Russian radio engineer Fedor Isachenkov, taking into account all the features of the car's on-board network and has a number of positive aspects:

there is a built-in voltage stabilization;
full compliance with GOST;
the maximum long-term load power is 36 watts (significantly less is required for DRL);
the simplest wiring diagram.

In addition to the above points, the DayLight + block is universal and fits all cars with a 12-volt on-board network, and also has good build quality and a high degree of protection against moisture and dust.
German products from Philips and Osram also have all the advantages of the DayLight + unit described above, however, German control units are only supplied with daytime running lights and are more expensive.

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