Do you experience an unpleasant crunching noise when you turn the steering wheel to one side as much as possible? In this material we will look at the main reason for the appearance of a crunch when turning and do not forget to indicate the secondary ones, which are less common.

In 95% of cases, the cause of the crunch is the CV joint - a constant velocity joint (in slang it can be called a grenade).

As we have already described above, the cause of the crunching in most cases is the CV joint. Let's figure out why it starts to crunch.

The device of this spare part is shown in the photo below. In the widest part there are balls (as in bearings) and each such ball has its own seat, which breaks due to wear over time. Therefore, in certain positions of the wheel, the ball leaves its seat, which causes contact with the rotating parts with a characteristic crunch, and sometimes the wheel jams.

Is the crunch critical?

Of course it is critical. It is highly undesirable to continue driving with such a malfunction. If you get carried away, you can wait until the CV joint falls apart completely and you can lose one of the drives. Another problem can be a wheel wedge. If this happens at speed, you risk losing control and getting into an accident. Therefore, we recommend that if a crunching noise is detected, you immediately begin repairing the problem.

Fault repair

The CV joint is a non-repairable part, and therefore repair consists only of complete replacement. In general, for most cars, CV joints cost reasonable money; premium brands may be exceptions.

Previously we described the process with step-by-step photographs. These instructions will help you understand the main replacement steps.

What else can cause crunching?

There are also more rare cases when the crunch is created not by the CV joint, but by other parts of the chassis, we list them:

• wheel bearings;
• steering rack;
• the wheel touches the arch (unlikely, but also worth paying attention to).

Bearing failure is quite easy to identify. It is necessary to hang the front wheels one by one and rotate them. If the bearings are faulty and jammed, the wheel will slow down and sometimes make a characteristic “grazing” sound. The moment of knocking, as a rule, appears in the same position of the wheel.

It is worth noting! When they break, the bearings hum and whistle more often than they do a crunching sound.

Diagnosing a faulty steering rack is much more difficult. In this case, the crunch must be looked for precisely at the moment of turning the steering wheel or rotating in place. It is also worth observing changes in the steering behavior: does the car also respond well to steering wheel turns or not, are there times when turning the steering wheel becomes difficult or, on the contrary, easy.

If any of these symptoms are observed, then most likely you should resort to more detailed disassembly and diagnosis of the problem, since the steering is not a system that you can turn a blind eye to. It directly affects safety.

The steering control of a car plays an important role, since its serviceability determines which direction you will go or not go ;-). Problems with the steering wheel can cost you dearly, and now we are not talking about money...

A faulty steering system must be repaired immediately at the first symptoms that indicate a breakdown. One of the most common breakdowns of the control unit is a crunching sound when turning the steering wheel; if you find such a breakdown, do not delay in diagnosing and repairing it. How to diagnose a steering failure? Everyone has their own answer to this question - for some it is easier to use a service, for others they prefer to do any service. Both are right in their own way; both cases have their own “pros” and “cons.” As for the diagnosis and repair of the helmsman at the station, the main advantage can be considered the presence of a professional. equipment, as well as extensive experience among the “servicemen”, which will allow you to quickly and efficiently not only diagnose the breakdown, but also eliminate it in the shortest possible time. The only drawback is that the service is not free, and steering repair is not just changing the pads; the price tag will be appropriate. Therefore, it is up to you to decide how to deal with the problem.

The difficulty of diagnosing a faulty steering wheel lies in the fact that when turning the steering wheel, you “address” not only the steering rack; many components are involved in the work: tie rods and ends, CV joints, wheels and more. Therefore, it is impossible to say exactly what causes the crunch when turning the steering wheel; moreover, it may not be related to the steering mechanism at all.

This failure is very similar to a CV joint crunching, so you should use the method of elimination, checking this failure first. If you notice a crunching sound while driving, most likely the reason will be related to the CV joint. “”, which is what the constant velocity joint (CV joint) is also called, is directly connected to the steering mechanism, so if this part malfunctions, you may feel a crunching sound while driving when turning the steering wheel. When you turn as much as possible, the faulty “grenade” begins to make clicking sounds; if this breakdown is not repaired in time, the crunching will intensify.

Steering rack

A crunch when turning the steering wheel can also be caused by a faulty steering rack, although this is not so common, and the crunch itself is significantly different from the crunch of a CV joint.

Signs include the following symptoms:

• The appearance of an extraneous sound when turning the steering wheel in any direction, even when the car is stationary;
• Vibration is felt, knocks are heard that are heard on the steering wheel;
• When the engine is turned off, a knock or play is felt at the extreme free travel of the steering wheel;
• When turning the steering wheel, excessive tightness appears or, conversely, abnormal lightness;
• The wheels react poorly to the steering wheel, turning is difficult.

If you encounter a familiar problem in the list of symptoms of a malfunction, you need to repair the steering rack. As a rule, on most new cars the rack is not serviceable, that is, it is completely replaced in the event of a breakdown, although there are craftsmen who manage to completely rebuild the steering rack and restore its operation.

Chassis: bearings and other rare causes of crunching when turning

If, when checking the components described above, you were unable to detect a malfunction, you should pay attention to other possible causes, which are much less common, but can also cause an unpleasant crunching or grinding noise. One thing is for sure: if it is not a CV joint or a steering rack, then most likely the reason lies in the chassis. It is certainly quite difficult, since the chassis includes a large number of parts, each of which can creak, click, knock, and much more. The point is that at home it is not easy to find what exactly and where you are “covered”, so to diagnose chassis malfunctions it is better to go to a diagnostic stand or, as the drivers also call it among themselves, “shaking”.

In the case of a chassis, extraneous sounds may come from the wheel bearing. Although, on the other hand, the hub bearing does not crunch at all at speed; it gives itself away with a characteristic hum, which intensifies with increasing speed. It is rare, but still occurs, when the cause of the crunching lies in the support bearings, which, due to a malfunction or sand getting inside, begin to crunch when you turn the steering wheel.

In conclusion I will add...

If home diagnostics do not lead to anything, seek help from specialists; you don’t have to repair your “swallow” there, you can do it at home, the main thing is to find the cause of the crunching sound when turning the steering wheel. And you can do the “treatment” yourself or with the help of some familiar car mechanic. I also advise you not to expect miracles from the machine and hope for the magical “Or maybe it will go away on its own?”, as practice shows, not only will it not go away, but it will also get worse. And if today you only hear a crunching sound, then in a week or a month, depending on the intensity of use, you will face more serious and expensive repairs. For example, if you didn’t change the release bearing in time, you’ll have to replace the clutch and basket assembly in a month. The difference in money is very big, so remember the golden rule: “Prevention is always cheaper than treatment”, the same goes with a car, it’s better to spend money today and change something less expensive than to “cost a penny” later by replacing the entire unit. Think, decide, and draw the right conclusions! Thank you for your attention and good luck on the roads! Bye.

This often happens when one or another problem occurs in the car. Extraneous sounds in the car from the steering system should immediately be perceived by the driver as a threat to his safety and other road users. It is important not to delay contacting auto mechanics. It will also not be superfluous to conduct computer diagnostics, which will help determine one or another malfunction of the car.

A creaking sound in the steering wheel is a possible sign of serious problems.

Extraneous sounds from the steering system can occur in various situations. It is important to take into account the complexity of the steering mechanism, especially when it works with hydraulic or electric power steering. The presence of these elements increases the number of causes of noise when turning the steering wheel. For high-quality diagnostics, it is necessary to attract a highly qualified specialist who must clearly determine the place from which the extraneous noise is coming. It is important to tell the mechanic under what circumstances the noise occurs - while driving or at a standstill.

You also need to describe the frequency of the squeak, when you turn the steering wheel in which direction it gets stronger, and whether it is related to the road surface, cold or hot weather.

Why does the steering wheel squeak when turning?

Extraneous noise when turning the steering wheel may be caused by faults in the steering, braking system, suspension or chassis.

The most common breakdowns are the steering column and steering rack. If the first one malfunctions, you can feel superficial but noticeable vibrations and impacts on the steering wheel. It may begin to make sounds when it hits the steering wheel during braking or an accident. In this case, there is a risk of bending the steering column. Extraneous sounds may come from the steering column coupling.

You can eliminate the noise by adding some lubricant. In addition, it is worth paying attention to the steering column cross. The driveshaft should be treated with a small amount of reliable WD-40 lubricant.

The best solution to all problems is to purchase and install a new steering column.

The steering wheel creaks when turning due to the steering rack

The steering rack may have the following problems:

• Wear of parts and mechanisms;
• Rupture of anthers and dirt getting onto the rail;
• Friction of steering tips on rods;
• Deformation of the steering rack housing.

Extraneous sounds can also come from the junction of the steering column and rack. To do this, they need to be properly adjusted. This adjustment may vary on different car models.

Why else does creaking occur when turning the steering wheel in place?

A car's steering wheel creaking can occur when the tie rod boots are damaged. Moreover, an extraneous sound is produced almost always: during turns in place, while driving and overcoming uneven road surfaces. Debris that gets into them contributes to the occurrence of squeaking. Therefore, it is necessary to inspect the condition of the anthers and replace them if worn.

If the steering wheel not only creaks when rotating, but also plays and vibrates, this may indicate wear on the steering joints that need to be replaced.

The next reason that the steering wheel squeaks when turning is a lack of power steering fluid. Usually the creaking appears when turning while stopping - extraneous noise is heard. In order to solve this problem, you should add fluid to the power steering reservoir yourself. If an extraneous squeak remains, then you should pay attention to the power steering pump and belt; they may be faulty.

It is recommended to repair power steering parts at specialized service stations.
Another answer to the car owner’s question “what can squeak when turning the steering wheel?” is incorrect wheel alignment. It can be done in service centers with special equipment and computers. This will allow you to set the most accurate wheel alignment angles. Incorrect wheel alignment can have such bad consequences as accelerated and uneven tire wear. A dangerous call can be a characteristic crunch and squeak when turning the steering wheel of a car while it is moving.

This may indicate wear of the ball joints, which need to be properly diagnosed and immediately replaced in the event of a malfunction. A worn ball joint can cause a wheel to come off at high speed, putting the vehicle and driver at increased risk.

Also, a sound when turning the steering wheel is produced when the support bearing of the strut wears out (pictured above). A temporary solution to this problem is lubrication. To do this, you need to dismantle the bearings, inspect them for the presence of sand and other dirt and damage. If there are no problems with the bearing, then you just need to lubricate it and install it back and adjust it correctly. But a more reliable option is to replace the bearings with new ones.

In hot weather, when turning the steering wheel, silent blocks may begin to creak. High air temperature promotes drying and shrinkage of rubber silent blocks. A visual inspection by dismantling will allow you to assess the nature of their wear. Polyurethane can be a good alternative to rubber silent blocks. It does not deform when exposed to elevated air temperatures
A grinding noise in the steering wheel can also occur when braking. The problem lies in a malfunction of the brake system, namely worn pads. Installing new brake pads will solve this problem. In addition, you need to pay attention to the condition of the brake discs.

Extraneous noise can also arise from the interior trim, i.e. steering casing, which is made of plastic. In inexpensive cars of modest configuration there is a tendency to the so-called. crickets. The solution to this problem depends on the make and model of the car.
From this video you will learn how to solve the problem of squeaking steering wheel due to the upper support bearing:

Bottom line

Problems that are associated with the fact that the car's steering wheel creaks when rotating are recommended to be solved at a service station, where highly qualified auto mechanics work. They are the ones who will be able to carry out high-quality troubleshooting. However, not all car enthusiasts can afford such luxury as professional technical service stations. Therefore, drivers try to carry out repairs on their own. But work with spare parts, such as a steering rack or column, should be carried out by experienced auto repairmen.

All this is due to the fact that your safety or even life is at stake, because repairing a car’s steering is not only difficult, but also responsible work.

The situation, characterized by the occurrence of a “crunch” when turning the steering wheel, is familiar to a fairly large number of domestic motorists. We will consider the reasons that initiate this defect in the article we bring to your attention. However, here, as in any technical problem, there are certain nuances.

Causes of crunching noise when turning the steering wheel

For example, if the steering wheel crunches when turning, the source of the crunch may be the loosening of the clamp screw connecting the steering shaft to the steering rack.

Thus, in extreme positions, the steering shaft splines disengaged (slipped) with the rack teeth, thereby causing a knocking sound.

Another source of knocking can be a needle bearing whose wear has exceeded the permissible values. As a rule, this occurs when there is insufficient lubricant inside the bearing.

Elimination of these defects comes down to replacing the worn bearing and tightening the clamp screw that secures the connection between the steering rack and the steering shaft.

Wear of the support bearing or support bushing of the steering rack can also cause knocking, and the only way to restore the functionality of these elements is to replace them.

When diagnosing the problem described, it is very important to test the steering not only in place, but also in motion. The presence of a crunching sound while driving is a clear indication of a malfunction of the constant velocity joint, or CV joint. The importance of this unit and the rather serious consequences of untimely elimination of the defect require a more detailed familiarization with this problem.

CV joint malfunctions and repair methods

The importance of such a unit as the CV joint can hardly be overestimated, since it is with its help that torque is transmitted from the vehicle’s power unit to its wheels. This allows the car wheels to turn at fairly large angles - up to 70 0 .

The engineering design of the hinge allows it to have a fairly long service life, but one design flaw still exists. This is to protect the element from penetration, dust, moisture, dirt, etc. It is the rubber boot of the CV joint, or rather its damage, that causes a malfunction of the joint, the main symptom of which is “crunching”.

Ingress of dust, moisture, dirt, etc. on the moving elements of the hinge (balls, grooves) significantly increase their wear, leading to a loss of strength of the structure as a whole. A “crunchy” CV joint is a joint that has not only become unusable, but also requires immediate replacement. Ignoring the “crunch” is fraught with jamming of the CV joint and breakage of the associated suspension elements. Replacing a hinge is not an easy task, however, with some technical skills and patience it is quite possible.

So, a “crunch” when turning the steering wheel requires the immediate implementation of the following measures:

• Preparation for repair and restoration work includes:

Reliable fixation of the car using the parking brake, engaging fourth gear, installing wheel chocks (wedges);

Removing the protective cap;

Loosening the wheel hub nut.

• Loosening the bolts securing the wheel and hanging it (the wheel) using a jack.
• Unscrewing the bolts and dismantling the thrust washer of the hub nut.
• Unscrewing the bolts that secure the steering knuckle of the lower ball joint.
• Installing the steering wheel in the extreme position opposite the side where the CV joint is being replaced.
• Pull back the steering knuckle with the strut enough to remove the splined end of the outer CV joint from the hub.
• Removing the inner joint from the gearbox using a pry bar.
• Reliable fixation of the drive shaft, for example, using a vice.
• Removing the inner and outer clamps securing the hinge boots.
• Inspection of the condition of the anthers.
• Removing the CV joint from the shaft. To facilitate the procedure, it is advisable to use a hammer and a tool made of soft material (for example, wood or bronze).

Installation of new constant velocity joints is carried out in the reverse order to that described above.

Video - what to do if the steering wheel crunches

In conclusion of our article, we draw the readers’ attention to some nuances, knowledge of which will allow you to make the most efficient use of the service life of the replaced hinges:

• Replace the hub nut with a new one whose edge is securely locked.
• During installation of the internal CV joint, a special plastic plug is installed at the end of the shaft.
• Before installing the hinges, fill them with a sufficient amount of CV joint-4 lubricant.
• Experts recommend replacing the retaining ring with a new one before installing the mechanism on the car.
• When installing the drive into the gearbox, check the fit (with full fixation) of the side gear. You can use a hammer and a wooden tool for this process.

Dedicated to all owners of front-wheel drive cars. Sooner or later, with front-wheel drive, you can hear a crunch when turning. That is, you are turning at speed, and something crunches and knocks on your right or left. What is this and why does this happen, let's figure it out.....

A crunch when turning means one thing, your wheel drive CV joint has broken or, in simple terms, a “grenade”. Why don’t you know what a grenade / CV joint is? Let's start with a definition.

– constant velocity joint, transmits torque from the engine to the car wheel, 90% is used in front-wheel drive cars, and only 10% in rear-wheel drive. The creation in the automotive industry was necessary, because with its help a car can turn its wheels at an angle of up to 70 degrees. Before front CV joints, automakers used a driveline drive, namely a universal joint. But the universal joint has significant shortcomings in its structure. Firstly, this is a rotation angle of only 35 degrees; a larger rotation angle loaded the cardan joint, many times more, so this design often failed. Secondly, another weak link in the cardan drive is the crosspieces, complex needle bearings, which are also not durable. Thirdly, the cardan transmission is expensive to manufacture. Therefore, the appearance was received with a bang, as they say. There are four types of CV joints in total (ball, tripod, CV joints and twin cardan shafts). But it is ball bearings that are most widely used; they are used in front-wheel drive cars. In order for you to imagine the work of a ball CV joint, I am posting this animation.

The only and, perhaps, one of the most significant disadvantages of such a “grenade” is protection from dirt. The CV joint is enclosed in a rubber, and now also a silicone boot; if it breaks, the device will very quickly fail (crunch).

And now we gradually come to why the CV joint crunches. One of the prerequisites for failure is a blow of the boot,

Since this system must be closed, dust and dirt, if they get on the moving parts themselves (balls and their grooves), provoke additional wear, and accordingly, with great wear, the structure itself breaks and loses strength. Therefore, check the anthers at least once a month. If you still hear a crunch when turning, you know that your “grenade” has already broken and needs to be replaced; if this is not done, the CV joint will simply jam.

It is very easy to check the CV joint, as they say for a “crunch”, when buying a car. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right and drive off; if you hear a crunch when turning, it is better to refuse to buy such a car. Do the same with the left side. Remember - a crunch when turning means a breakdown of a very important part of a front-wheel drive car, the CV joint or popularly known as a “grenade”. If you have the skills and abilities, then change the “grenade” yourself; if not, then urgently go to the station.

That's all I think, I helped determine the problem, sincerely yours