Has your car stopped pulling or is having trouble starting? And do you think that the time has come to repair the VAZ 2107 carburetor? Then I recommend that you read this article, here you will find useful information on repairing, removing, installing and overhauling the VAZ 2107 carburetor.
Carburetor diagram for VAZ 2107: 1-leading lever for driving the second chamber; 2 - adjusting screw for the amount of idle mixture: 3 - carburetor heating unit; 4 — engine crankcase ventilation pipe; 5 — accelerator pump drive lever; 6 - solenoid shut-off valve; 7 — air damper lever; 8 — carburetor cover; 9 — bolt for fastening the liquid chamber; 10—liquid chamber body; 11 — carburetor body; 12 - throttle lever of the second chamber; 13 - sector of the throttle control lever: 14 - marks for correct installation of the bimetallic spring of the starting device
Relative values of fuel jets for Solex carburetors
Ratio | Diametersdiffuser |
||||
| 23,0 | 24,0 | ||||
| Economical | 95.0 | 102,0 | 107,0 | ||
| Economical power | 98 5 | 105,8 | 111,0 | ||
| Power moderate | 102,3 | 109,8 | 115,2 | ||
| Power normal | 106,4 | 114,2 | 119,8 | ||
| Powerful dynamic | 110,8 | 119,0 | 124,8 | ||
| Sport | 115,7 | 124,2 | 130,3 | ||
| Factory values | 95,0 | 102,0 | 107,0 | ||
| Air quantity in diffuser | 1428,0 | 1498,0 | |||
Step 1. Removing the carburetor from a VAZ 2107 car
If you need to replace the carburetor on a VAZ 2107 or repair the carburetor yourself, first you need to remove the carburetor from the VAZ 2107 car, because it will be much more convenient to repair the carburetor.
Therefore, let's move on to removing the carburetor:
1.1. We remove the air filter housing, disconnect the crankcase gas recirculation system tubes, unscrew the starter drive and fuel line, disconnect the gas drive, return spring and vacuum ignition timing tube. We disconnect the power supply to the solenoid valve and the connectors of the EPHH system (if it is installed on a carburetor VAZ 2107).
1.2. We disconnect the telescopic rod of the starting system, unscrew the upper part of the carburetor body and remove it from the car.
1.3. Unscrew the 4 carburetor mounting nuts and remove the lower and middle parts from the car.
1.4. After removing the carburetor, remove the manifold gasket and cover the manifold with a spacer made of cardboard (or other material), thereby protecting the intake manifold from foreign objects!
The process for installing a new carburetor occurs in the reverse order of removal.
Important: Do not tighten the bolts too much, the approximate force is (6.6–15.4 N m). Also, if possible, change all the gaskets on the carburetor with new ones, because they quickly become unusable from the effects of gasoline and other negative factors, and you yourself know first-hand about the quality of Russian spare parts. Although if the gasket under the 2107 carburetor is still in order, you can leave it, but it is better, of course, to change all the gaskets on the 2107 carburetor.
Step 2. Disassembling the VAZ 2107 carburetor
2.1. We disassemble the upper part of the carburetor, remove the starting diaphragm, its rod and housing, remove the float and needle valve, unscrew the filter plug and remove it.
2.2. Dismantling the middle and lower parts of the carburetor can begin by removing the vacuum drive of the second chamber, then remove the jets of the main and auxiliary systems and emulsion tubes, remove the accelerator pump diaphragm (be careful not to lose the springs), remove the accelerator pump nozzle and small diffusers.
Important: If you have little experience in repairing carburetors on a VAZ 2107, then I recommend writing down the digital designations of the jets and their installation locations.
2.3. We disconnect the throttle valves and the middle part, be careful not to lose the starting rod and spring when disassembling this unit!
2.4. Remove the idle quantity assembly (“bullet”) and unscrew the quality screw. This concludes the disassembly; also during disassembly, the VAZ 2107 carburetor gaskets and rubber seals of the screws and connections are removed.
Here is an excellent video from Nail Poroshin about complete maintenance, disassembly and assembly of the Ozone 2107-1107010 carburetor:
Step 3. Cleaning the VAZ 2107 carburetor
3.1. Place small parts and jets, emulsion tubes, nozzles, quality screws in a jar of acetone for 15-20 minutes, then take them out with tweezers and clean them with toothpicks (remove carbon deposits from the air jets of the main system), blow them with compressed air.
Place the washed parts on a clean surface, preferably light cotton fabric.
3.2. Place the carburetor body parts, diaphragm caps and nozzles in a container with solvent or gasoline for 15-20 minutes, then rinse with a brush and blow with compressed air, then also place in a clean container.
3.3. We place the fasteners and hardware in a specially prepared container and rinse them too, drain the solvent, then leave them in the container until assembly.
3.4. We check the vacuum drive mechanism of the 2nd chamber for leaks and do not disassemble it; to wash it, just wash it in gasoline and wipe it with a rag.
Useful video on cleaning the carburetor from dirt and carbon deposits:
Step 4. “Puncture” the carburetor
This operation is designed to check for blockages in the channels of the main and auxiliary carburetor systems. The puncture is done with a 10-20 cc syringe filled with gasoline. For example, gasoline is supplied to the idle channel under pressure from a syringe and after the gasoline has flowed out of the channel, we can judge its throughput and cleanliness. In order to understand how the “puncture” of the VAZ 2107 carburetor occurs, you should familiarize yourself in detail with the structure of this carburetor in specialized literature.
Step 5. How to assemble a VAZ 2107 carburetor
5.1. I recommend starting the carburetor assembly from the middle part with the installation of emulsion tubes and fuel and air jets, nozzles and small diffusers. You can connect all the elements of the carburetor without any problems by watching the video that you will find below.
5.2. The lower part of the throttle bodies is attached to the partially assembled middle section. Do not forget to install the starting rod and spring, between the lower and middle parts, the rod is installed just before connecting these parts.
5.3. After connecting the lower and upper parts, we install the accelerating diaphragm and the vacuum drive of the second chamber, screws for the quality and quantity of the mixture.
5.4. We start assembling the upper part by installing a cardboard gasket, then screw on the needle valve and install the float, install the filter, screw it on, and plug the filter.
5.5. We assemble the starting diaphragm assembly and install it, not forgetting to put the starting rod and rubber seal between the body and the part, and hang the telescopic rod.
5.6. All diaphragm seals and gaskets are replaced with new ones, with the exception of the vacuum drive of the second chamber (if it is working properly).
Step 6. Checking the carburetor starting system
6.1. Checking the starting system is carried out with the assembled carburetor removed (the screws of the top cover do not need to be tightened, just hold them with your hands). We remove the trigger manually and check the width of the gap to which the shutter of the first chamber opens, the distance should be 0.8 mm, this gap is adjusted by the trigger rod, bending or straightening it, we can achieve a change in this gap. Next, we simulate the operation of the starting diaphragm and move it manually to the extreme position, while the starting flap (upper part of the carburetor) should open a gap of approximately 5 mm.
6.2. Checking the fuel level and tightness of the needle valve and accelerator pump.
6.2.1. We install the assembled middle and lower parts of the carburetor on the car (without tightening), install the upper part (without tightening), connect the fuel line and pump in gasoline with a fuel pump. We fill the float chamber and remove the upper part and monitor the fuel level; if the fuel level is higher or lower, then we bring it back to normal. We set the throttle valve in motion and check the operation of the accelerator injector and the tightness of the fuel pump, and if necessary, eliminate leaks.
Step 7. Installing a carburetor on a VAZ 2107
7.1. We also begin installing the carburetor on a VAZ 2107 by installing the middle and lower parts on a new manifold gasket, then we pull the carburetor to the manifold, install the recirculation pipes and the vacuum ignition timing drive (EPHH system), the throttle valve drive and the return spring.
7.2. We install the upper part of the carburetor, connect the telescopic rod, fuel line and starting device.
Step 8. Starting and adjusting the carburetor
8.1. Before starting and adjusting, you need to be 100% sure of the serviceability of the ignition system and the correct setting of the ignition timing!
8.2. We turn on the carburetor starting mechanism (the mixture quantity screw is in the middle position, the quality screw is unscrewed 3 turns).
8.3. As it warms up, we push back the starter damper to its maximum value. A warm engine should run steadily at 850-900 rpm.
8.4. We adjust the carburetor of the VAZ 2107 using the idle speed screw, if the speed is not even, then we add the quality screw until the idle speed is leveled, if the speed is even initially, then we try to reduce the quality of the mixture, achieving slight unevenness of operation, then we even out the speed. The carburetor should be adjustable; if this does not happen, drill out the plug in the middle part and make additional adjustments with the second quality screw.
8.5. To make precise adjustments, we use a CO gas analyzer; for a working carburetor, the CO value at idle is from 1% to 2.5%.
Photo instructions for repairing a carburetor on a VAZ 2107
Checking the needle valve for functionality
This photo instruction shows the process of removing and checking the needle valve; I recommend following it in order to easily check the valve for functionality.
How to disassemble and check carburetor cover parts for malfunctions
If you need to check the carburetor cover parts, this photo instruction is for you!
How to repair the pneumatic throttle actuator on a VAZ 2107 carburetor
Has your pneumatic throttle valve on your carburetor broken? Then this instruction is for you!
Repair of the body and the process of disassembling the carburetor for a VAZ
Is it time for a hull repair? Then I recommend following the instructions below and you will not have any problems with disassembling and repairing the carburetor body.
Carburetor repair with your own hands or at a service may be required after a certain mileage of any car, or after its careless disassembly and cleaning. In this article we will look at the main malfunctions of the fuel system and carburetor, and how to get rid of them, and in general, how to repair a car carburetor with your own hands (or adjust) without resorting to the services of a car service center, and what you will need for this.
Of course, in one article it is impossible to describe the repair of carburetors of all models, and this is not necessary, since the principle of operation and restoration of most carburetors of many cars is almost the same, with the exception of some nuances (for quite rare cars).
Therefore, this article will describe the repair of the most common Solex carburetor (or DAAZ-2108), which is installed at the factory on VAZ front-wheel drive cars, but many craftsmen install them on other cars (for example, UAZ, Volga and other cars with With a standard carburetor, quite high fuel consumption). And using the example of repairing this carburetor, you will be able to learn the skills of diagnostics (troubleshooting, troubleshooting parts) and repair of almost any carburetor, including foreign cars.
But before removing the carburetor from the engine, prepare a place on the workbench or table that should be free and clean. Cover the surface of the table or workbench with a sheet of clean white paper, on which small details will be clearly visible. And remember that the key to success in this matter is cleanliness. It is also necessary to stock up on clean containers (boxes) for small parts.
It should be noted that screwdrivers intended for unscrewing jets, etc., must have normal (not torn) edges; it is better to use new screwdrivers for disassembling the carburetor, which should be kept specifically for carburetor repair. The carburetor itself should be removed from the engine and thoroughly washed to remove dirt from the outside. Only after this can it be disassembled. And below we will describe the diagnosis and repair of the carburetor in parts, this is easier for beginners.
Do-it-yourself carburetor repair - inspection and diagnostics of parts.
In carburetors such as Solex and DAAZ 2108, the throttle valves are opened sequentially, by a common mechanical lever drive, from the carburetor drive control pedal. The carburetor contains:
Main parts of the carburetor.
1 - Air pipe (diffuser) of the secondary mixing chamber, 2 - air nozzle of the main dosing system of the primary chamber; 3 — air damper of the primary chamber; 4 — accelerator pump nozzles; 5 — diaphragm of the starting device; 6 — adjusting screw; 7 — adjusting screw for the amount of idle fuel mixture; 8 — vacuum supply pipe to the vacuum ignition timing regulator; 9 — adjusting screw for mixture quality (toxicity) at idle; 10 — throttle valve of the primary chamber; 11 — crankcase gas suction fitting; 12 — accelerator pump diaphragm drive lever; 13 — accelerator pump drive cam; 14 - diaphragm; 15 — economizer jet; 16 — economizer; 17 — power mode economizer diaphragm; 18 — electromagnetic valve EPHH; 19 — idle fuel jet; 20 — fitting for supplying fuel to the float chamber; 21 — fitting for returning fuel to the tank; 22 - carburetor cover
The diaphragm economizer of power modes, with a significant opening of the throttle valves, injects additional fuel with diaphragm 17 through nozzle 15 (see Fig. 1. left) into the nozzle well of the main dosing system of the primary chamber and this contributes to the enrichment of the fuel mixture.
Float mechanism.
First, let's start diagnostics and repairs with the simplest thing: the float mechanism, which is responsible for the fuel level, which is very important. Indeed, when the fuel level increases or, conversely, decreases from that required by the plant, the carburetor will enrich or deplete the composition of the working mixture in all engine operating modes.
The float mechanism of the Solex and the new DAAZ (for eights) is not at all different in principle from previous models, but has a slightly different design solution. Due to the fact that the float chamber covers the mixing chambers on both sides, instead of one float made of sheet brass on Ozone, the new float mechanism has two floats made of foamed (porous) ebonite. This design (similar to motorcycle carburetors) ensures a normal fuel level and its supply to the emulsion wells of the main metering systems, even with a significant tilt of the vehicle.
In addition, instead of a separate seat and cone needle (on older models), the new carburetor has a one-piece fuel shut-off valve.
When checking and adjusting the required fuel level, it should be taken into account that the new float mechanism is adjusted differently from the old DAAZ and Ozone. Only the measurement of the gap between the float and the connector plane on the cover with the gasket is the same. But it should be noted that new carburetors have two floats and the gap must be checked under each.
If the gaps are different, then the float holders should be bent and equal gaps between each float and the connector plane on the cover should be achieved, and then these gaps should be adjusted to the values described in the factory instructions. We achieve the required gap of 1±0.25 mm by bending tongue 6 in Figure 3 (more on this below). By the way, it wouldn’t hurt to unscrew the fitting and wash the mesh 11 shown in Figure 3.
Carburetor float chamber.
a — float mechanism, b — device for draining fuel into the gas tank;
1 — needle (shut-off) valve, 2 — gasoline supply channel, 3 — shut-off valve body, 4 — ball spring, 5 — needle valve damper ball, 6 — tongue, 7 — bracket, 8 — float chamber, 9 — float, 10 — balancing hole, 11 — strainer, 12 — drain fitting with jet.
When adjusting the gasoline level in the float chamber, there is an important nuance that is not described in the instructions. If on older carburetors, for example "Ozone", the gap is fixed in a position where the float tongue just begins to touch the spring-loaded ball (in the locking cone needle), then on new DAAZs (for eights) when the required gap is fixed, the ball must be recessed by the tongue all the way (by the way, if you turn the carburetor over, the ball is recessed all the way due to the weight of the floats).
Few people know this, and when adjusting the fuel level, the gap is set incorrectly, and as a result, the level differs significantly from that recommended by the factory. The working mixture becomes leaner and many drivers begin to rejoice that the engine is becoming more economical.
But the mixture also becomes leaner in those modes where it should be, on the contrary, richer: starting the engine, starting the car, dynamic acceleration with the secondary chamber turned on.
As a result, starting a cold engine significantly worsens, failures appear during engine operation, while fuel economy is minimal.
Required clearance of the float mechanism.
Therefore, when adjusting the fuel level, special accuracy should be achieved in accordance with the required factory recommendations (deviation from the required clearance shown in Figure 4 is allowed only ±0.25 mm). Over time, the shut-off valve of the float chamber begins to lose its tightness and the fuel level rises, which leads to an enrichment of the working mixture. Naturally, you need to get rid of this, but more on that below. First, I will describe how to check its tightness.
To do this, you can use a regular rubber bulb purchased at the pharmacy. We cut the nipple of the pear so that it fits tightly onto the fuel inlet fitting of the float chamber cover (you can not cut the pear, but use an adapter made of a rubber hose of suitable diameter).
The float chamber cover is removed and turned upside down with the detachable plane facing up, while closing the bypass fitting with your finger (the fuel bypass fitting is smaller in outer diameter than that of the inlet fitting). Now all that remains is to crush the pear with your fingers and observe it: if it restores its shape (that is, it takes in air), then this means that the shut-off valve is faulty.
A common cause of malfunction (leaking) of the shut-off valve is dirt getting between the cone of the needle and its seat. Therefore, before doing anything, you should thoroughly rinse the shut-off valve itself and the fuel channels in the lid, and, of course, rinse the fuel strainer under the plug, which often becomes clogged with dirt.
Scheme for reducing exhaust gas toxicity.
1 - primary mixing chamber, 2 - throttle valve drive, 3 - screw for adjusting the quality of the working mixture, 4 - thrust screw, 5 - idle speed system nozzle channel, 6 - solenoid valve, 7 - ignition switch, 8 - battery, 9 - electronic switch, 10 — ignition coil, 11 — distributor sensor, 12 — control unit.
The performance testing of this system is based on how it should perform when in good working order. When the ignition is turned on before starting the engine with lock 7 (see Figure 2), when the throttle valve of the primary chamber of the carburetor is closed, the thrust screw 4, in contact with the throttle valve drive lever 2, closes the circuit between terminal number 5 of the electronic control unit 12 and ground (body) car.
In this case, the on-board voltage should be supplied (check) to the economizer solenoid valve 6 (EPVH), which should open the fuel supply through the idle fuel nozzle. When starting the car engine and when it is idling, voltage must be present at the solenoid valve 6 (more precisely at its terminal 18, see Figure 1), conducted through the wire from the control unit 12 (Figure 2).
When closing the throttle valves sharply, that is, during forced idling, lever 2 should rest against the thrust screw 4 and shunt terminal number 5 to the ground (body) of the car. In this case, the voltage on the solenoid valve 6 (or 18 in Fig. 1) should be turned off, and the needle closes the idle fuel jet, thereby cutting off the gasoline supply.
And when the engine crankshaft speed decreases to 1650 rpm, solenoid valve 6 should again receive voltage from the control unit, while the fuel nozzle opens again and the supply of the combustible mixture from the idle system is resumed and the engine runs confidently at idle speed.
The functionality of this system is checked quite simply, using a tester set to voltmeter mode and measuring constant voltage (within 0 - 12 V) and an assistant who monitors the tachometer and when the speed drops to 1650, the assistant notifies you about this, and you in turn, the appearance of voltage at the solenoid valve terminal is checked by connecting the positive probe of the tester to the valve terminal, and the negative probe to the ground of the machine. If voltage does not appear, you should check the integrity of the wires and the cleanliness of the terminals.
Well, if voltage appears at the terminal, but the valve itself does not work, then you should set the tester to ohmmeter or buzzer mode and check the integrity of the valve solenoid coil. In this case, we connect one probe of the tester to the valve terminal, and the second to ground. If the tester shows a break, the solenoid valve should be replaced. But often the valve does not work due to dirt (its nozzle becomes clogged).
Below we will describe the most common malfunctions of most carburetors and the power system in general, and methods for eliminating them.
Common malfunctions of the carburetor (and not only it) and their elimination.
Formation of a lean working mixture.
Signs of the engine running on a lean fuel mixture are: popping sounds (shots) from the carburetor (in the air filter), and loss of power (if it pulls poorly). It must be borne in mind that the same symptoms occur when the engine operates with early ignition. Therefore, before looking for a fault in the power system, it is necessary to check the ignition installation.
Shots from the carburetor occur due to the fact that the lean mixture burns slowly, and at the same time, when the intake stroke begins in the cylinder after exhaust gases are released, the combustion of the working mixture continues in the combustion chamber. Therefore, the incoming combustible mixture ignites and combustion spreads through the intake pipe to the carburetor. Also, shots from the carburetor can also be a consequence of the intake valve not closing tightly. To eliminate a malfunction in each specific case, it is necessary to accurately determine the cause that caused it.
The listed faults must be identified and eliminated in the following order::
check the fuel supply using the methods indicated above; When the fuel supply is normal, check for air leaks in the connections. To do this, with the engine running, close the air damper and turn off the ignition, then inspect the junction of the carburetor and the intake manifold.
The appearance of wet fuel spots indicates that there are leaks in these places. To eliminate malfunctions, you need to tighten the nuts and bolts. Only without fanaticism, a little bit at a time, since the flange of a Solex or DAAZ 2108 carburetor is noticeably thinner than the flange on Ozone, and often the plane of the flange turns out to be distorted by excessive tightening of the fasteners. And to eliminate this malfunction, you will need to tinker with grinding the flange plane on a plate with abrasive paste. Sometimes the plane is strongly bent and before displaying it on a slab with paste, you will need to display the plane first on an abrasive flat stone.
If no air leaks are detected, check the fuel level in the float chamber and adjust it if necessary.
The level adjustment on the carburetors of most cars is done by bending the tongue 6 (Fig. 3) of the bracket 7 of the float 9 from the needle shut-off valve 1 to increase the level or in the opposite direction to decrease it. Only, as I already said, (unlike Ozone), when adjusting the fuel level on Solex and DAAZ 2108, their valve ball must be completely recessed. Simultaneously with the adjustment, the ease of movement of the float and needle valve is checked, as well as the tightness of its closure and the valve seat 3 is tightened. Naturally, the floats should not touch the walls of the float chamber.
Formation of a rich working mixture.
Signs of the engine running on a rich working mixture are: loss of power, shots in the muffler and black smoke from it, engine overheating, increased fuel consumption and dilution of the engine oil in the crankcase (in the sump), and formation on the spark plugs, pistons and combustion chambers. black soot. By the way, confirmation of a rich mixture (as well as a lean mixture) can be determined by the carbon deposits on the spark plugs, and I advise you to read in detail what the color of the carbon deposits on the electrodes and the spark plug insulator means.
The release of black smoke from the exhaust system with a rich mixture is explained by the presence of incompletely burned, charred gasoline particles. And shots in the muffler occur because some part of the gasoline (due to lack of air in the mixture) does not burn in the combustion chambers of the engine. And when leaving the exhaust pipe and combining with oxygen in the air, the unburned part of the gasoline instantly ignites and a pop occurs.
But it should be borne in mind that shots from the muffler may occur due to loose closure of some exhaust valve. Therefore, before you blame the carburetor for preparing a rich mixture, check and adjust if necessary.
And the loss of power with a rich mixture is explained by the fact that the rich working mixture burns too slowly. Well, the dilution of engine oil in the engine sump occurs from the condensation of unburned gasoline vapors, which appears on the walls of the engine cylinders and then flows down the walls into the sump, or is removed by oil scraper rings along with the engine oil.
The reasons for the formation of a rich working mixture may be:
loss of tightness of the shut-off valve of the float chamber (I wrote above how to restore tightness) or loosening of the valve seat. From wear or sticking of the economizer valve, or from sticking of the power mode economizer diaphragm drive lever.
From the float touching the walls of the float chamber, from exhaustion of the jets or cleaning them with steel wire, from incomplete opening of the air damper, from increasing the fuel level in the float chamber above the level recommended by the factory (as mentioned above, this is eliminated by bending the tongue).
We replace the damaged jets with new ones from the repair kit, and restore the normal closure of the air damper as follows. We remove the air filter from the carburetor, loosen the cable fastening screw in the articulated coupling of the air damper axis lever, then pull out the air damper drive handle 1.5 - 2 mm from its extreme forward position and now fasten the cable screw.
In this case, the air damper must be completely closed (it must completely block the diffuser). Well, what should the fuel level be and how to regulate it, I wrote above. If everything is normal with the fuel level, but the mixture is still rich, then you should check the tightness of the shut-off needle valve (I wrote above how to do this using a rubber bulb). You should also check the tightness of the closure of the economizer valve; if this does not help, then you need to replace the jets with new ones; perhaps they are worn out or have scratches in the calibration hole (checked using a lens).
Leaking gasoline.
This occurs when the inlet plugs of the float chamber are not tightly screwed in, as well as wear or loose rubber hoses, due to wear of the rubber rings. Any leakage of gasoline must be immediately eliminated (determined visually and treated by replacing seals or hoses), since when fuel leaks, there is a danger of a fire in the engine compartment. And of course, when gasoline leaks, excess consumption is inevitable.
Difficulty starting a hot engine.
This malfunction can be caused by incomplete opening of the air damper in the carburetor diffuser, by an increased fuel level in the float chamber (overflow) and, in general, by a rich working mixture. To start the engine, you should press the gas pedal all the way, and if this does not help, then check and adjust (as described above) the length of the air damper cable to ensure its full opening and closing by moving the handle in the cabin. Well, how to check and adjust the gasoline level was described above.
A cold engine will not start.
This may be due to the fact that the air damper does not close completely when the handle of the manual drive (choke) is extended - how to check and adjust it was described above. Also, a cold engine may not start due to a lack of gasoline supply to the carburetor (checked by disconnecting the hose from the carburetor inlet fitting and then manually pumping) if there is no gasoline supply, then you should check the fuel pump (there is a detailed article on how to do this, the link to it is above in the text - fuel pump malfunction).
If it turns out that the fuel pump is working normally, then you should check the normal flow of the fuel hose from the tank to the pump. This is done using a tire pump connected to a hose; when pumping, you should hear a gurgling sound in the fuel tank. But after blowing the hose, it is advisable to rinse the tank and the fuel receiver screen in the tank from dirt.
The engine runs erratically or stalls at idle.
In general, this malfunction can be caused by several reasons, which can occur even with a working carburetor and power system. For example, if the ignition timing is incorrectly set, if the spark plugs or one of the spark plugs are contaminated with soot, the engine will fail (read how to identify a non-working spark plug, how to check it and clean it correctly).
Also, such a malfunction can be due to a violation or incorrect adjustment of the valve clearances (the link is above about their adjustment), due to a decrease (I advise you to read how to restore engine compression without disassembling it), due to air leaks through the gaskets between the head of the block and the intake manifold, or through the gasket between the head and the block. Read how to replace the manifold gasket, and replacing the head gasket is described
And before you get into the carburetor and check the power system, you should check and, if necessary, eliminate the malfunctions described above. After this, you should check that the throttle valve drive (and the valves themselves) are not jammed, and if everything is in order, then you should adjust the carburetor, or rather its idle system.
Adjusting the idle system.
To adjust it, most carburetors have two screws, which are usually closed with plastic restrictive plugs (seals), shown in Figure 5. These screws allow you to achieve normal idle speed with a normal ratio of air to fuel.
Typically, such adjustment is carried out at a service station, since accurate adjustment requires a device for measuring CO (gas analyzer). In this case, the adjustment is first made within the limiting bushings, and if this fails, then by unscrewing the adjusting screws, break the stops of the bushings, then remove them, and by tightening the adjusting screws back, make the adjustment described below. If someone has a gas analyzer, then you can make the adjustment yourself.
Idle air system adjustment screws.
a - location of screws, b - design and action of screws;
1 - screw for adjusting the amount of combustible mixture, 2 - screw for adjusting the quality, 3 and 4 - restrictive plastic bushings (seals).
We start the engine and warm it up to operating temperature (of course, when warming up, we give it more gas if the engine does not hold idle speed). Next, we install a gas analyzer sampler on the exhaust pipe and now by rotating the mixture quantity screw 1 (see Fig. 5) we achieve an engine speed of approximately 820 - 900 rpm (check the required idle speed in the manual of your car). At the same time, by rotating the toxicity screw 2 (mixture quality screw), we achieve the permissible (according to GOST up to 1.5%) CO content in the exhaust gases.
After turning the toxicity screw 2 and achieving the CO standard, you should again adjust the required idle speed (as a rule, they change) required for your engine with screw 1 (amount of mixture). As a result, it is necessary to achieve with two screws both normal toxicity and at the same time the required engine idle speed. And after adjustment, it is advisable to press in new seal bushings.
By the way, a simple device invented back in Soviet times is useful for adjusting the mixture - a transparent spark plug, which is shown in the video below.
If there are no such spark plugs or a gas analyzer, and the nearest service station is far away, then you can try adjusting the carburetor as described below.
With the warm engine running, you need to unscrew the mixture quality screw 2 all the way into the bushing (seal), and use the quantity screw 1 to achieve the required value of stable idle speed. Next, to check the adjustment, press the gas pedal and then immediately release it. In this case, the engine should increase crankshaft speed smoothly and without interruption, and after releasing the gas pedal, the engine should operate steadily at the minimum crankshaft speed required for your engine.
If the engine stalls, then by unscrewing the quantity screw 1, you should slightly increase the speed and check again using the gas pedal. If such an adjustment fails to achieve stable operation of the engine at idle, then the reason may be clogging of the carburetor channels or jets, or due to a malfunction of the forced idling economizer (I described above how to check the ESP using a tester).
But it’s best to start checking by checking the cleanliness of the idle jet, which should be unscrewed and blown out, as well as blowing out the idle channels with compressed air. After purging (cleaning) the nozzle and channels of the idle air system, the adjustment should be repeated as described above.
And lastly: in order to avoid problems with the power system, do not skimp on fuel and air filters and change them before the time recommended by the factory, especially if you drive on dusty country roads. After all, the manufacturer of cars (especially imported ones) gives recommendations for replacing consumables based on the fact that the car will drive on normal and clean European roads, which are periodically washed with soapy water (in Europe they wash roads).
And imported car manufacturers expect that their cars will run on normal fuel, without any water or dirt. Our fuel is far from ideal (I advise you to check the quality of gasoline yourself, without a laboratory), so don’t skimp on filters.
And thanks to the reduction in the time required to replace consumables (filters), do-it-yourself carburetor repair or adjustment, I hope you won’t need it for a long time, good luck with that.
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Moscow, 2nd Perova Polya passage, 9 - 5
Moscow, Kashirskoe highway, 67с5 - 5
Dydyldino village, Dydyldino village, 54 - 5
Vidnoye, Shkolnaya street, 51 - 5
Mytishchi, Yaroslavskoe highway, 115 - 5
Moscow, Sosnovaya Alley, 4с3 - 5
Zelenograd, Panfilova street, 28B - 5
Moscow, Varshavskoe highway, 45 - 5
Lyubertsy, Yuzhnaya street, 25Ac2 - 5
Mytishchi, 1st Rupasovsky Lane, 6k6 - 5
Moscow, Aviatorov street, 13с6 - 5
Moscow, Vrachebny proezd, 3 - 5
Moscow, Starovatutinsky proezd, 10с2 - 5
Moscow, Nizhnie Polya street, 29с16 - 5
Moscow, Michurinsky prospect, 31k7 - 5
Mytishchi, Novomytishchisky prospect, vl5 - 5
Balashikha, microdistrict Zheleznodorozhny, Prigorodnaya street, 131 - 5
Balashikha, Prigorodnaya street, 131 to Auto - 5
Moscow, Prichalny proezd, 8с17 - 5
Balashikha, Sovetskaya street, 50 - 5
Moscow, Varshavskoe highway, 170G, Box No. 30 - 5
Moscow, Fergana street, 13с1 - 5
Korolev, Pionerskaya street, 1k1 - 5
Shcherbinka, Simferopol highway, 16 - 5
Moscow, Varshavskoe highway, 56 - 5
Shcherbinka, Lyublinskaya street, 7A - 5
Moscow, Shosseyny proezd, 10k1 - 5
Balashikha, Prigorodnaya street, 131 - 5
Moscow, Dubninskaya street, 83 - 5
Balashikha, Avtozavodskaya street, 50A - 5
Balashikha, Ryabinovaya street, 3с3 - 5
Moscow region, Barvikha village, Podushkinskoe highway, 41 - 5
Milkovo village - 5
Moscow, Gorbunova street, 12k2s2 - 5
Moscow, Sadovniki street, 11Ak1 - 5
Mytishchi, Strelkovaya street, Box 88 - 5
Moscow, Ostapovsky proezd, 6с1 - 5
Balashikha, Nosovikhinskoe highway, 26 - 5
Balashikha, Keramicheskaya street, 2A - 5
Moscow, Festivalnaya street, 50с1 - 5
Moscow, Polyarnaya street, 39 - 5
Moscow, Tashkentskaya street, 30с2 - 5
Odintsovo district, Odintsovo, Molodezhnaya street, 14k1 - 5
Moscow, Profsoyuznaya street, 145 - 5
Balashikha, Lenin Avenue, 73 - 5
Moscow, Varshavskoe highway, 265/90 - 5
Kotelniki, Industrial Zone Silikat Street, 9/1 - 5
Moscow, Novoostapovskaya street, 6Ас12 - 5
Moscow, Koshtoyants street, 22 - 5
Moscow, Ozernaya street, 46k2
- ← Previous
VAZ carburetor repair in Moscow - prices
- Bring it in, we'll figure it out.
- Repair from 1000 rub.
- Good afternoon.
Most likely the switch.
Need to watch.
You can bring it to Veshniye Vody, 4, building 48.
Let's do it. - Good afternoon, dear Client. We are glad that you contacted FIT Service about this issue! Your request has been processed, and we are ready to provide all the services that interest you. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that before performing any work on the car, we recommend that you diagnose all components and identify only what really needs repair or replacement, this will allow you to save money and time. We remind you that we provide a 1-year warranty on all spare parts purchased and installed from us. Please tell us your phone number so that we can reserve a date and time convenient for you. There is also the option to sign up on our website yourself and receive an additional 3% discount. We are also always happy to receive your phone call. Looking forward to cooperation, a team of FIT Service professionals
- No mixture ignition, engine diagnostics needed, come
VAZ 2107 2006, carburetor repair
Alexey: We need to clean the carburetor
- Good afternoon
We do not deal with carburetor cars. Best regards, AutoHERMES group of companies!
- Good afternoon
VAZ 2104 1998, carburetor repair
Denis: gasoline flows into the manifold and overflows
- Good afternoon. The cost of diagnostics is 620 rubles. Cost of repairs after diagnosis as agreed.
- Hello Denis, come to us, we will help you solve your problem.
- Denis: Please write the address
- Panfilova Street 28B, behind the centurion, or behind the Iridium
- Good afternoon Come, let's figure it out...
- Good afternoon
VAZ 2109 1996, carburetor repair
Nikita: You need to adjust the carburetor well so that you can drive quickly and not consume too much fuel.
- Good afternoon. First, we suggest you do a diagnostic of your car. The cost of diagnostics is 650 rubles.
- Good afternoon. Can. Call.
- You are setting two mutually exclusive conditions.
Carburetor engine. Driving fast = high consumption. If you want sports performance from the "nine", then this is an expensive and not very necessary pleasure.
And if the engine simply doesn’t want to work normally because of the carburetor, then there are plenty of reasons. Come, we'll cure you.
VAZ 2115 1999, carburetor repair
Yusif: works well at low speed and often stalls
- Good afternoon, dear Client. We are glad that you contacted FIT Service about this issue! Your request has been processed, and we are ready to provide all the services that interest you. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that before performing any work on the car, we recommend that you diagnose all components and identify only what really needs repair or replacement, this will allow you to save money and time. We remind you that we provide a 1-year warranty on all spare parts purchased and installed from us. Please tell us your phone number so that we can reserve a date and time convenient for you. There is also the option to sign up on our website yourself and receive an additional 3% discount. We are also always happy to receive your phone call. Looking forward to cooperation, a team of FIT Service professionals.
- 20 years old car... what do you want?
there can be many reasons.
-
Andrey: adjusting the fuel mixture with the carburetor, preparing for technical inspection.
- We do not do carburetor repairs or adjustments, I advise you to contact Mikhail, he works near a spare parts store on Khabarovskaya Street, Gazelle is parked there (on a backup opposite the traffic police post), he will definitely help you and do everything efficiently.
- Andrey: Thank you.
- Hello, dear Andrey!
Thank you for your interest in the AutoHERMES company!The entrance cost of diagnostics for your VAZ 2106 1995 car will be 2,500 rubles, depending on the complexity of the work, the cost may increase.
The cost of work to obtain a diagnostic card will be 720 rubles.
Have documents with you: the owner’s civil passport, registration certificate.
Fire extinguisher, warning triangle, windshield without chips or cracks, lighting fixtures should all be on.We will try to make you a favorable offer and will be glad to see you in our company.
We invite you to visit our dealership center "LADA AutoHERMES", located at the address: Moscow, Entuziastov Highway 59.
To ensure a guaranteed visit to our dealership on a day and time convenient for you, we suggest you use the service of pre-registration for service by calling the general telephone number of the AutoHERMES company. - Do they exist
- Sorry we can't help
- Sorry we can't help
- Good afternoon
Our Company does not carry out this work. Best regards, AutoHERMES group of companies! VAZ Oka 2003, carburetor repair
Andrey: Carburetor repair, ignition adjustment
- Good afternoon, dear client. We are glad that you contacted FIT Service about this issue! Your request has been processed, and we are ready to provide all the services that interest you. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that before performing any work on the car, we recommend that you diagnose all components and identify only what really needs repair or replacement, this will allow you to save money and time. We remind you that we provide a 1-year warranty on all spare parts purchased and installed from us. Please tell us your phone number so that we can reserve a date and time convenient for you. There is also the option to sign up on our website yourself and receive an additional 3% discount. We are also always happy to receive your phone call. Looking forward to cooperation, a team of FIT Service professionals.
VAZ 2106 1995, carburetor repair
Kirill: carburetor adjustment
- We do not deal with carburetors.
- Good afternoon, Kirill, unfortunately, we do not carry out such work, we do not have the equipment.
- Kirill, hello!
From 500 to 1500 rubles
Call me, tell me what you have, I’ll give you a more accurate priceMy name is Maxim
Car service center on Vavilova Street 21 - Good afternoon To clarify the possibility and cost of performing the work, call our acceptance specialist
Please note that prices may differ from those shown on the website. The final cost is calculated individually and depends on the condition of the car, additional work and additional components.
And also visit our website and VK group for more information
https://xn----7sbbi1a3brl.xn--p1ai/
VAZ 2108 1996, carburetor repair
Sasha: The spark plugs are flooded and the car won’t start
VAZ 2104 2001, carburetor repair
Salavat: How much does carburetor repair cost?
VAZ 2108 1997, carburetor repair
Andrey: Carburetor adjustment
Very often, complaints from owners of gasoline trimmers are related to various types of carburetor malfunctions. Of course, in this case, it is best to seek help from specialists in this field, for whom repairing carburetors of gasoline trimmers is an integral part of their profession. However, if you are still familiar with the basic principles of how a trimmer carburetor works, you can try to figure out the problem yourself so as not to overpay for service, since sometimes the breakdown can be really minor.
This article is intended to help you deal with the problem.
The first step is to inspect the carburetor as a whole and find out if there is any fuel leakage.
If it turns out that there are no problems with the fuel, you need to remove the carburetor from the engine and check the condition of the gasket located next to the carburetor.
If no malfunctions are observed here, you can try checking the carburetor for the degree of tightness.
To do this, you can purchase a special device, which is included in the tool kits for repairing the carburetor of brush cutters and is a special pressure gauge, which, in fact, checks the tightness.
If you don’t want to spend money on purchasing it, you can use a regular medical tonometer, on which you just need to change the pressure gauge.
When using this device, pay attention to the indication.
If the pressure does not drop and remains the same for a long time, you can rest assured, as this indicates that the carburetor is tight.
If the pressure begins to decrease after a certain time, then there are still problems.
They may be associated with damage to any carburetor parts.
Before running to the nearest repair shop or specialized store selling trimmers and spare parts, try to figure out the problem yourself. Sorry for the banality, but the carburetor of a lawn mower is not a spaceship of an extraterrestrial civilization, and it is quite possible to repair it yourself. To be confident in your actions, read the step-by-step instructions presented in this article.
Step-by-step instructions for repairing a lawn mower carburetor
Disassembling the carburetor
A visual inspection of the carburetor will help identify fuel leaks and air intake, but the main reasons for device failure lie internally. Therefore, in order to determine and, most importantly, correct the breakdown, the carburetor must be disassembled.
It doesn’t take much effort to disassemble the carburetor of a lawn mower.
Just unscrew the four screws on one side
and two on the other. This can be done using a regular Phillips screwdriver. Carefully unscrew the screws and put them aside. They may be needed during assembly. It is advisable to cover the table with a white cloth before disassembling so that everything can be seen, even the smallest parts that may fall out during disassembly.
Step #1
We begin disassembly from the side of the fuel supply system.
We remove the primer - the pumping bottle, which is noteworthy; during assembly it is simply impossible to install the carburetor parts incorrectly. The products have characteristic ebbs and holes.
Step #2
Remove the pump cover.
Step #3
Now remove the membrane. It is she who performs the function of pumping fuel into the carburetor.
When the membrane vibrates, the other side exerts pressure on the rocker arm of the mechanism and the needle rises, which, in turn, opens the hole and fuel is supplied.
Step #4
Remove the carburetor cover with the injection mechanism.
Step #5
Step #6
There is another gasket under the membrane. We also carefully remove it, without damaging it in any way.
Step #7
There is a valve here, which, when adding gas, opens and increases the flow of air into the engine.
After removing it, you are left with a bare body in your hands. The carburetor is disassembled.
Troubleshooting and Troubleshooting
Now it’s worth paying attention to the problems that occur during carburetor operation and how to fix them.
Problem 1: Clogged holes, channels and jets with dirt
The first thing that happens is that the holes and jets in the fuel supply system become clogged with dirt. Filters installed in the tank and directly in the carburetor do not help. They still allow small particles to pass through, which cause the mower to fail.
Step #8
Now we need to get the needle.
To do this, unscrew the bolt on the mechanism, holding it with your finger. The fact is, there is a spring there and careless action will lead to it being lost.
We take out the needle (see photo) and the spring.
Step #9
What to do with purging. The most effective way is to use an ultrasonic bath.
It is filled with either a special liquid or gasoline, a carburetor is placed there and under the influence of ultrasound, the so-called cavitation effect, the channels are cleared of contaminants.
The second cleaning option is compressed air.
You can use a compressor available on the farm and clean the carburetor channels. However, this method is effective if the contamination is not very large.
If there is neither an ultrasonic bath nor a compressor at hand, then cleaning can be done in a third way using a special cylinder for cleaning the carburetor. They are sold in almost all auto stores and supermarkets. The price is low and is approximately 2-3 $. This cylinder is enough for 4 or 5 purges.
Step #10
Now we need to blow out the channels in the carburetor body and cover. See photo.
Step #11
Another particle of dirt may get stuck under the needle. See photo. This will also lead to failure of the brush cutter.
Important! When cleaning the carburetor, under no circumstances should you use needles, pins or wires. Even the slightest scratch will damage the carburetor. It will have to be changed entirely.
Problem 2: clogged fine filter
It is located on the carburetor cover and is a fine metal mesh. Its contamination occurs very often. This is due to the deposition of oil, additives, and dirt on it.
Step #12
Sometimes, when disassembling into meshes, a certain film is discovered. This carburetor does not have enough fuel and the brush cutter either does not start or works intermittently. The cleaning methods are identical to the first reason: an ultrasonic bath, a compressor, or a can of a special solution. In addition, if the mesh is thoroughly clogged, you need to take a soft brush for watercolor paints, dip it in gasoline and carefully rinse it without damaging it.
Problem 3: membrane failure
Step #13
They have the ability to wear out during use. From prolonged use, they become deformed, stretch, lose elasticity, low-quality fuel corrodes them, and can no longer perform their functions well. This also applies to the needle itself. The fact is that it is covered with a thin layer of rubber, which wears out during operation and can no longer fit tightly into the hole. The lawn mower begins to work intermittently. To eliminate such a breakdown, it is necessary to replace all worn parts. Where can I get them?
Specialized garden equipment stores sell a repair kit for the carburetor of a certain model of brush cutter. The cost of such a repair kit ranges from 40 to 60 hryvnia.
It includes two diaphragms, a gasket, a needle valve and a spring.
All carburetor wear parts can be replaced. Therefore, you should not rush and buy a new one, and you also don’t need to run to the workshop; repairs can be done by any user of a brush cutter. Professionals claim that the quality of the components in the repair kit even exceeds the characteristics of the original carburetor parts. Therefore, a well-repaired unit will work better than a new one.
Problem 4: the bubble button for manual fuel pumping is worn out
Step#14
In addition, the bubble button for manually pumping fuel may fail. Exposure to gasoline leads to the fact that during long-term use, the rubber is corroded and it begins to stick together or, under the influence of low temperatures, for example, during storage, it bursts. The button should also be replaced if necessary. In addition, its cost is small and will not in any way affect the size of the repair budget.
Based on the above, we can conclude that there are only three main carburetor malfunctions: clogged channels, contamination of the fine filter and failure of components. In the first two cases, cleaning is enough, and in the third, a repair kit will help.
Carburetor assembly
Assembling the carburetor of a brush cutter is not difficult at all. You must perform all the steps in reverse order:
Step #15
Install a spring and a needle valve in the carburetor cover. Holding the spring with your finger, tighten the fastening bolt.
Step #16
Screw the air supply system valve to the product body with two screws.
Step #17
Turn the carburetor over and proceed to the fuel system assembly. First you need to install the gasket.
Step #18
Install the membrane.
Step #19
Place the carburetor cap.
Step #20
Install the main membrane.
Step #21
Place the pump cover.
Step #22
Install the plate with the manual fuel pumping button and tighten the four screws.
The carburetor is assembled and ready for further use.
Repairing a lawn mower carburetor may seem like a complicated process for the first time, but if you have to disassemble it a second time, this procedure will not cause any particular difficulties.
If you do not find any of the listed problems in your carburetor, it is recommended to seek help from a specialized service.
And you can also watch a video of repairing a brush cutter (trimmer) (part 1 - disassembly)
https://youtu.be/z5o48ZsL2jY
Repair of brush cutters (trimmer) (part 2 - assembly)
https://youtu.be/03Gi12j8wK0
Selected for you:When carrying out maintenance and repairs, it becomes necessary to completely disassemble it. The order of disassembly is arbitrary, but it is still worth adhering to a certain algorithm. Let's look at the disassembly and assembly of the 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex carburetor, which was installed on the engines of VAZ 2108, 21081, 21083, 2109, 21091, 21093, 21099, etc.
Required Tools
You will need almost the entire set of tools presented on the page. It is the simplest, no complex devices are required. The second condition is the cleanliness of the workplace, since even the slightest contamination can create big problems.
Procedure for disassembling carburetors 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex
— Remove the carburetor from the car engine.
— Remove the upper part (cover) of the carburetor, having previously unscrewed, using a Phillips screwdriver, the five screws securing it to the body.
five screws securing the carburetor cover 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex Let's take it apart first.
removing the upper part (cover) of the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex — Using a thin drift (2.5 mm) and a light hammer, knock out the float axis.
removing the float axis on the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex We take it out and remove the floats. We work carefully so as not to damage the cover posts into which this axis is threaded, and also to prevent deformation of the float bracket.
— Remove the cardboard gasket from the “lid.”
floats, needle valve and cardboard gasket removed from the carburetor cover — Turn out the needle valve body.
To do this, we use an open-end or socket wrench size 11. Disconnect the housing and its copper (or aluminum) sealing ring.
unscrewing the needle valve body from the carburetor cover 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex — We turn the electromagnetic valve of the EPHH system with a key to 13.
removing the solenoid valve from the carburetor cover Remove the rubber o-ring and metal cup from it. We take out the fuel jet of the idle system.
— Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the carburetor fuel filter plug.
We take it out along with the copper o-ring and the mesh filter.
— We unscrew the fuel supply fitting.
We do this with a 13 key. We take out the fitting and its copper sealing ring.
fuel supply fitting and fuel strainer removed from the Solex carburetor cover — Remove the air damper control lever.
To do this, unscrew the bolt securing it to the “cover” with a 14mm wrench and carefully, trying not to lose it, separate the fixing ball located underneath it. Then we take out the ball and the spring located under it.
Removing the Solex carburetor choke control lever — We disassemble the starting device.
Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the four screws securing its cover. We move it back, simultaneously removing the rod on the diaphragm from engagement with the pin on the lever and then from the grooves in the device body. It is most convenient to keep the air damper open. Remove the cover, the diaphragm with the rod and the spring located under it.
elements of the carburetor starting device 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex — Remove the spring of the air damper mechanism.
— Remove the carburetor air damper , using a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the two screws that secure it to the axle. If the screws do not come off, file their ends. After this, the axle is freely removed from the cover.
removing the air damper opener spring, removing the air damper itself and removing its axis All the lids are disassembled.
We disassemble the housing of carburetors 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex
— Remove the rubber sealing ring on the idle air system channel tube.
rubber o-ring on the fuel channel tube of the idle air system — Remove the bracket for fastening the air damper drive rod (“choke”) , unscrewing the screw securing it with a Phillips screwdriver.
Removing the bracket for fastening the shell of the air damper drive rod of the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex — We remove the air jets of the main dosing systems along with the emulsion tubes.
On carburetors of the 2108 Solex family, they are structurally combined. Therefore, we turn them out of the emulsion wells with a slotted screwdriver.
removing the air jets of the GDS with emulsion tubes from the emulsion wells of the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex — Take out the accelerator pump nozzle.
To do this, use a slotted screwdriver to pry it under its upper spout and gently push it up. Remove the rubber O-ring from the sprayer body.
Removing the accelerator pump nozzle for carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex — Using a thin slotted screwdriver, unscrew the fuel jets of the main metering systems.
They are located at the bottom of emulsion wells. After turning them inside out, you can remove them with a toothpick or simply shake them out.
removing fuel jets from emulsion wells — We take out the small diffusers from both chambers of the carburetor.
The easiest way to get them out is with pliers.
removing diffusers — We disassemble the accelerator pump.
Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the four screws securing its cover. We remove it along with the diaphragm and return spring. If the parts are difficult to separate, you can try to separate them with a knife.
— We disassemble the economizer of power modes.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the carburetor cover to the carburetor body. We remove it, as well as the diaphragm and spring. Using a slotted screwdriver, unscrew the economizer nozzle and remove it. We do not touch the economizer valve unless necessary.
economizer elements of power modes of carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex — Remove the screw for adjusting the “amount” of the fuel mixture.
Using a slotted screwdriver, we disconnect the wire contact from the screw tip. We unscrew the screw and remove it and the spring located on it. Using a slotted screwdriver, unscrew the screw of the plastic wire holder and remove the wire from the carburetor body.
removing the screw for adjusting the “amount” of the fuel mixture from the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex — Remove the throttle valve control sector.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the screw that secures it. We remove the bracket located on the sector, pry the sector with a screwdriver, and forcefully separate it from the throttle valve drive lever.
Removing the throttle control sector of the first chamber — Use a thin slotted screwdriver to unscrew the “quality” screw of the fuel mixture from the channel in the carburetor body and grab it with tweezers and remove it from there.
Remove the rubber o-ring from it. Sometimes when the screw is removed, the ring remains in the carburetor body channel. From there you can get it out with an awl.
— Remove the accelerator pump drive cam from the throttle valve axis of the first chamber , unscrewing the nut securing it with a size 11 wrench. There is a special washer under the cam, remove that too.
remove the accelerator pump drive cam — Remove the throttle valves of both carburetor chambers.
Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the screws securing them to the axles. If the screws do not come out, then their ends are riveted. We grind them down a little with a file.
removing the throttle valves of both chambers of the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex — We take out the damper axes.
Remove the spring and plastic bushing from the axis of the first chamber. To remove the axle of the second chamber, pry it with a screwdriver and remove the axle lock washer.
removed throttle shafts 1. Carburetor body 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex.
2. Throttle valve axis of the first carburetor chamber.
3. Throttle axis of the second carburetor chamber.
4. Throttle valves of the first and second chambers.
5. Throttle valve mounting screws.
6. Return spring of the first chamber axis.
7. Plastic washer.
8. Metal washer.
9. Carburetor accelerator pump pressure cam.
10. Cam fastening nut UN.
11. Lock washer for the throttle valve axis of the first chamber.
The entire carburetor has been disassembled.
We assemble the Solex carburetor in the reverse order.
When tightening screw connections, do not apply much force to avoid deformation or damage to the thread.
Notes and additions
— Do not unnecessarily press out the air jet of the idle system from the carburetor cover, as well as the fuel intake pipes of the econostat and the transition system of the second chamber. Their mounting sockets can be damaged. The same applies to pressing out the air jet, the starting device jet, the power mode economizer valve, the fittings of the crankcase ventilation system and the vacuum intake to the vacuum corrector, and draining the fuel into the tank.
— If there is no need to remove the carburetor choke, do not remove it. When removing screws with cut threads, the threads in the axles can be damaged. In addition, when installing the damper back, it may shift relative to its previous position, which will lead to its incomplete opening or closing, which can lead to disruption of the carburetor and the impossibility of its normal adjustment.
— Everything written above also applies to the removal and installation of the throttle valves of both chambers. If you still have to remove them, mark their original position just in case.
