To be honest, I didn’t notice any particular problem - but yes, the engine takes a relatively long time to warm up, several times longer than on the same Hyundai SantaFe.

And once again the frost hit, -25 degrees - no, the Chinese car starts up like crazy and just runs, but the slow warming up began to bother me. So I dove into the topic, found a suspicious pipe and circuit in the cooling system, which, when the thermostat is closed, drives hot liquid into the radiator (what a bastard!) - and suddenly found out that the Chinese had already solved the problem for several years. This is not a VAZ, yes.

So, the crux of the problem:

This hose is needed to eliminate air pockets in the small cooling circuit. This is done by connecting the highest point of the small cooling circuit to the neck of the radiator (in fact, to the top of the cooling radiator, because the neck is located directly on it).

The Chinese, when they tore apart the cooling system from a Mitsubishi engine, did not notice that this hose was not connected directly to the thermostat housing (as it seemed to them), but that there was a check valve ball inside the housing. As a result, valuable hot liquid constantly flows into the radiator through the hose when the thermostat is closed - which could warm us in the cabin.

In general, the Chinese quickly found the problem and installed the valve directly in this hose:

Cars that have already been sold have undergone modifications at service centers - but my car is one of the very first ones, produced in 2008, and I almost didn’t have time for modifications until the end of the warranty, and since then I haven’t visited Chery’s service centers, there was no reason. In general, this is the valve you can buy at Exist for 50 rubles and install it yourself:

However, the smartest people do this:

Yes, yes - instead of a valve they put a tap. And this valve is always closed; it is opened only when replacing the coolant or, if you are tormented by paranoia and you regularly overheat the engine - in the summer.

With the tap - after starting the car, within a couple of minutes there was already a breath of warmth in the cabin, after driving a couple of kilometers - it began to heat properly, complete delight. The valve does not do this job so well, but it is also much better with it.

Japanese drivers complain that their check valve is dying and the car becomes cold - but it is tightly packed into the housing. You have to either change the entire body - or rip out (usually drill out) the fitting for the hose, pick out the dead ball, clean everything, drill it out, install a new larger ball, make a new fitting. It’s good if the ball is stuck in the open position - then you can also plug in an external tap, but if it’s stuck in the closed position - trouble, you can’t get rid of the air pockets, the result is that the engine overheats, but the heater doesn’t really heat up.

PS. I see people complaining about the weakness of the stove. OK, let's look at the diagram of Cherie Kimo's cooling system - I wasn't even too lazy to draw something here:

What a beauty. You see, Kimo even has a heated throttle body, so it’s not like some people.

In this diagram, number 5, we see the notorious air tube into which you need to install a faucet or valve.

But we see something else interesting on it - tube 9, which is the “return”. As is easy to see, the small coolant circuit is formed by two parallel circuits, one is the heater circuit (and the throttle valve heating, they are connected in parallel), and the second circuit is a straight return pipe through which the hot coolant, bypassing the heater, immediately returns to the engine.

It is not difficult to guess that if the flow in tube 9 is reduced, more hot liquid will flow into the heater, and it will become hotter. You can put, for example, a plug with a hole in tube 9—8 millimeters to start with—and look at the result. I believe that the result will more than satisfy you.

I genuinely had fun watching how some idiots for some reason switched the heater into the circuit of this tube, and turned off the old circuit. What for - when is it the same chain, just run in parallel? In addition, they take a big risk - if in the cold their heater radiator becomes clogged with gel, which their antifreeze that has not been changed for many years has turned into, then with good gas flow, their heater or supply pipes will simply burst. Actually, the Chinese made the circuit through tube 9 precisely to prevent this from happening. Therefore, there is no need to completely turn off this tube.

Today a very relevant article (especially in winter) is that the car’s heater does not heat, or heats very poorly! Why does this happen and what are the main reasons for this? After all, a normal working car should warm up the interior within 10 - 15 minutes (unless, of course, you have a turbocharged engine, according to it). If after 15 minutes you have barely warm air (or not at all), and all the glass inside is frozen, then this is not “good”! Read my tips below...

First, let's think about how a car warms up? As we all know, during operation the internal combustion engine heats up very much, this happens from the friction of the pistons against the cylinder walls, as well as from the combustion of the fuel mixture. If you do not cool the engine, it will quickly fail (the pistons will simply jam). A whole cooling system has been made from pipes, pipes and radiators, which prevents the power unit from overheating. So one of the radiators is located inside the cabin, under the instrument panel. Without going into complex technical details, this heater radiator (warmed up by engine coolant) warms up your interior. And in order for the heating efficiency to increase significantly, there is a fan nearby (which has several operating modes, faster - slower) that blows on this radiator, due to which warm air flows intensely into the cabin (both on the windows and on passengers). And if something disrupts this work process, then cold air enters the cabin, that is, the stove does not heat. Now let's talk about the main reasons

There are about five reasons for poor warming up.

Fan doesn't work

The most common reason, it happens, is that the fan does not work, it simply does not blow, and, accordingly, warm air does not flow well into the cabin, or rather does not flow at all. Of course, the heater radiator will heat up, but for heating the entire cabin, this is extremely insufficient.

The fan or the electronics that control it need to be replaced. Or look at the fuse, often it just blows and that too.

Insufficient coolant level

This is now unlikely, because many modern cars have antifreeze level sensors. However, such cases do occur (say, in cars of previous generations). Imagine - it’s gone (maybe due to leaking radiators or pipes), the heater doesn’t receive enough heated liquid, and it’s practically cold, the fan is blowing, and the air is cold (it simply doesn’t heat). You need to add coolant to the level (like this). Also, if radiators or pipes are leaking, then the leak must be eliminated.

It is worth noting that if the cooling compound leaks, “air plugs” may form, so even if you add antifreeze - antifreeze, you need to wait a while for the air to come out.

Heater radiator is clogged

There may be several reasons:

The first one is . For example, in G13 you filled in, say, G11 or even antifreeze, then a sediment may appear that will quickly clog all the thin radiator pipes.

Secondly, they poured water. Water not only causes rusting of metals in the system, but also forms scale on the walls.

Third, they eliminated leaks in the heater radiator or main radiator using all kinds of sealants. On the one hand we heal, on the other we cripple. The passages in the radiator can become clogged with excess of this sealant; the liquid cannot circulate normally in it and, accordingly, heat it up, which means it will not really heat it. True, your engine may show high temperatures, at the limit level (the main thing is not to overheat it). You need to either flush the system, clean the radiator, or simply replace the radiator.

Engine thermostat faulty

Now about more complex breakdowns. If everything is fine with the stove itself, the fan works, but does not heat well, then the problem may be in the engine thermostat.

The thermostat serves to regulate the so-called “cooling circles”. When we start the engine, the coolant circulates in a “small circle”; the engine and the interior heater are involved here. Thus, warming up occurs much faster. After the coolant has warmed up, the thermostat opens a “large circle” and the heated liquid has already flowed to the main radiator, which is located under the hood. This is done in order not to overheat the motor if there is excessive overheating.

BUT, depending on time or the quality of the coolant, the thermostat may fail and not close the “big circle”, but always drive around it. Sometimes an absurd situation even happens when the small circle is (even) slightly blocked and weakly heated antifreeze flows into the stove (which should warm up the interior). It is blown to the maximum (maximum speed), but the air flows cold or barely warm. And since at -20, -30 degrees it takes a very long time to wait for the “big circle” to warm up (and it may not warm up thoroughly at all), the interior will not warm up.

The only solution is to replace the thermostat! Moreover, the faster, the better; nevertheless, the glass in your cabin will also not thaw, which is fraught in winter, because visibility deteriorates.

Engine pump faulty

A pump is essentially a mechanical (sometimes electric) engine pump that pumps hot liquid through the system. That is, from the power unit block, through the pipes and further into the radiators for cooling. And in our case, for heating the interior.

It is an “impeller” that is inserted into a metal cylinder through which liquid passes. The impeller rotates, thereby pushing antifreeze (TOSOL) through the system. If there were no pump, then cooling the motor would be extremely ineffective, it would quickly overheat.

Very often, the pump is driven by a belt drive from the crankshaft of the power unit.

The main breakdowns are:

• Sometimes the crankshaft belt breaks, the pump does not rotate and does not circulate the coolant through the system. Accordingly, the stove does not heat. However, the power unit will also overheat.
• The pump itself is jamming. It does not rotate, or the internal part of the “impeller” does not rotate.
• Eats the inside. Due to the “crappy” quality of the metal, the internal impeller can be eaten away by aggressive antifreeze or antifreeze. Therefore, purely physically, the pump pulley rotates, but the liquid pumps through the system very poorly. Again, the stove does not heat.

For all reasons, the pump needs to be changed. I’ll say right away that the first “bells” may be a whistling sound in the engine compartment, a hot hose before the pump or heater, but a cold one after.

Blown engine head gasket

The thing is that the motor is not a monolithic structure; it has a block head and the block itself. They are connected through a special gasket. If this gasket is broken (and this happens, for example, due to poor broaching), then the coolant will go into the cylinders or muffler (from the muffler will be ). Thus, there will not be enough coolant in the system (possible air pockets) and therefore the stove will heat poorly! It is urgent to change the head gasket, otherwise you can kill the engine through overheating.

If several decades ago only domestic cars, of which there were not so many varieties, confidently ran along the roads, now the highways are simply filled with foreign cars. It is difficult to have an idea about all the varieties of foreign cars; it is even more problematic to understand their technical equipment and what causes problems, worsening their performance.

However, if you have purchased an elegant foreign car Chery Fora, then you will have to delve into its features in order to ensure its long-term playfulness, and for you, as the driver, a comfortable stay inside the cabin. Of course, it is useful to study the technical manual for this car, in which the manufacturer already orients the driver to possible problems and also provides ready-made ways to solve them.

Unfortunately, lately specialized forums have been full of questions and requests for help from those who recently became the owner of a Cherie Fora. Basically they complain that it's a Cherie Fora, so it's terribly cold in the cabin. At the same time, they, of course, would like to receive comprehensive information on how to eliminate such a problem. We will make your task easier and provide ready-made solutions, using which you will be able to restore the excellent performance of the heater, as a result of which the interior will become hot again.

Troubleshooting

Those who have already tested the Chery Fora in practice claim that the vehicle most often faces three main problems:

• excessive fogging of windows;
• loss of power.

Such troubles await the car due to the fact that the injectors are very fast. For this reason, throwing aside the next portion of your unreasonable fear and laziness, simply carry out a thorough cleaning of these elements. We are ready to provide you with informational support in performing certain actions that will make the interior of your Cherie Fora car no worse than at the equator.

Algorithm of actions

Initially, we suggest that you pay attention to that part of the outer surface that comes into contact with the installation site of the wipers. Unfortunately, even after a thorough search, you will not find a filter here. A little further, almost under the glove compartment, there is a fine filter. It is he who has to bear the brunt of the flow of dirt, leaves and other debris. For this reason, it quickly becomes dirty, and subsequently it will not be able to properly pass air flows.

Many Chery Fora car owners decide to replace the pump, borrowing it from the Gazelle. However, most craftsmen consider this a waste of time and money, so they recommend turning on circulation in the cabin to improve the quality of heating.

And also on such a car, the diameter of the hoses connected to the hose is small, so they become dirty too quickly. In this regard, another recommendation arises - to clean the hoses and pipes that are components of the heating system more often. By the way, to clean the pipes, it is not at all necessary to remove the radiator; just drain the coolant and then connect the pipes to the compressor. Clean them under high pressure, blowing out accumulated debris. You will instantly notice how an incredible number of pieces of dirt will fly out of them.

If you are itching to upgrade something in order to improve the operation of the heater in order to increase the temperature in the cabin, then we recommend installing a second filter in the place where the wipers are located, and you can also install a non-original radiator, the channels of which will have a larger diameter , accordingly, they are less likely to retain dirt.

Don't forget to check the thermostat as it could also be the culprit. To check it, first start the engine and touch the outlet pipe. He should be cold at this moment. Now open the valve and observe the change in the temperature of this pipe. It should heat up quickly, but gradually. If it immediately heats up or remains cold, then your thermostat needs repair or replacement.

So, if you have purchased a Chery Fora car, try not only to make friends with it, but also to find out all its ins and outs, then it will be easier for you to extend a “helping hand” to it, eliminating the identified problems. We are absolutely confident that by following our recommendations, you will be able to create conditions under which it will be hot inside the cabin.