January 15th, 2013

To soften reverse impacts during strong shocks, rubber buffers 3 are installed in the lower part.

The IZH-49 motorcycle uses an elastic rear wheel suspension with hydraulic shock absorbers; This type of suspension is the most modern. It provides a smooth ride even on rough terrain.

The rear wheel suspension of the IZH-49 motorcycle (Fig. 273) consists of a fixed part connected to the rear fork of the frame, and a moving part connected to the rear wheel. The fixed part consists of two brackets located at the ends of the rear fork; Each of the brackets has two split ends with coupling bolts. Tubular steel suspension rods are fixed in the tips of the brackets; in addition, the upper tips contain spring support bushings with a worm thread on the outer surface onto which the upper ends of the suspension springs are screwed. Tubular steel rods also serve as a body ( cylinder) hydraulic shock absorber. The shock absorber body is filled with 30 cm 3 of low-viscosity oil (automobile), the level of which should be below the upper end of the rod.

The moving part of the suspension consists of a housing 1, springs 2, a hydraulic shock absorber rod 13 with a jet 4 and cuffs 12, and a stiffening fork 8.

The suspension body has the shape of a long bushing with a thread along the outer surface for attaching the lower end of the spring.

The hydraulic shock absorber rod 13 is inserted into the tubular shock absorber housing and at the same time into the suspension housing 1, to which it is connected via a bolt.

The suspension springs are installed between the upper support bushing and the suspension body.

The stiffening fork connects the rear wheel of the motorcycle to the suspension and to the motorcycle frame in such a way that both shock absorbers work simultaneously. This fork is hinged at the front end to the motorcycle frame; At the bottom of the other end of the fork is the rear wheel axle. By means of bolt 9 and connecting sleeve 10, the stiffening fork is connected to the suspension body.

When hitting an obstacle, the rear wheel will move up along with the moving parts of the suspension. Due to the fact that the oil is in the lower part of the shock absorber, its rod will move up without resistance, and the shock will be softened only due to elasticity springs. Thanks to the small passage hole of the nozzle, the oil slowly flows upward and the movement occurs slowly.

Owners of IZH 49 motorcycles, who do not want to part with these old, but, in their words, “wonderful machines,” ask to tell us what and how to replace the failed wheels. This is what the designer of the Izhevsk plant, Viktor Aleksandrovich Starkov, recommends doing.

On the IZH 49 motorcycle you can install a rear wheel (IZH-56 - sb. 4-2) together with a braking device and a driven sprocket (IZH-56 - sb. 4-21-2), currently produced as a spare for the IZH-56 models , IZ Planet, IZ Jupiter. To do this, you need to make several additional parts and remake some components.

1 — bushing (2 pcs.):
2 — bushing (6 pcs.);
3 — hairpin;
4 - bolt;
5, 6 - studs.
The bolt and studs are made of steel 35 or 40, the bushings are made of steel 20 or 30.

We expand the rear part of the frame (Fig. 1) by 22 mm by installing new bushings 1 and 2, studs 3, 5 and 6, bolt 4. We extend the stays of the swinging fork (Fig. 2) of the wheels to a size of 212 mm (heating them with a burner in places circled in the figure) and cut grooves for the axle and axle shaft (on the left side to a size of 17.2 mm, on the right - up to 20.2 mm), the axis passing through these grooves must be parallel to the fork suspension axis, otherwise the wheel will not lie in the plane of the motorcycle, which will disrupt the stability and controllability of the machine. The test can be carried out on a slab or glass using a gauge or templates.

To fasten the right shock absorber, we make a bolt according to Fig. 3 and screw it in so that the long edges of the head (fitted into the groove of the sprocket cover) are located along the axis of the fork, preventing rotation of the sprocket casing.

The axle shaft (Fig. 4) and the washer (Fig. 5) are needed to install the rear wheel sprocket casing (IZH-56 - sb.4-21-2). For this unit we also purchase an axle with a chain tension nut, an axle nut and a spacer sleeve from the IZH-56 motorcycle (IZH Planet, IZH Jupiter).

To protect the chain from dirt, you can use the rubber covers used on the latest IZh models, while simultaneously replacing the left and right crankcase covers. At the same time, we dismantle the manual gear shift mechanism.
In the rear wheel brake drive, shorten the rod to 185 mm and install the adapter bracket, as shown in Fig. 6.

The front fork and wheel from the IZH 56 motorcycle (IZH Planet, IZH Jupiter) can be installed on the IZH 49 motorcycle along with the following parts: brake drum cover, mud shield, speedometer gear, wheel axle and handbrake cable.

V. STARKOV, engineer

Izhevsk

I’ll add here a post about my favorite motorcycle IZH-49. At the time of restoration, I had no experience in repairing and restoring motorcycles, and I have no time, I work on business trips. Therefore, do not judge strictly! I am aware of all the shortcomings and inconsistencies with the original.
The review was written in 2014 and posted on another Internet resource. Go…
]
I knew what an IZH-49 was, but I didn’t even think about buying it; the owners of these motorcycles, out of delusions of grandeur and from the realization of owning a rarity, outdid the owners of all IZHs combined. Moreover, the condition of the motorcycle does not mean anything to them. It doesn’t matter whether it’s a hodgepodge of all the Planets of the local collective farm + a tractor magneto, or a rusty carcass that was left on the advice of a drunk neighbor, who, in turn, is very knowledgeable about retro and convinced the owner not to give it away cheaply, but to wait until they come for this trash from Moscow itself.
Look through the ads and you will understand what I mean...

After hesitating, he decided to call. There was no photo of the motorcycle in the ad. The voice on the phone announced the price of 10 thousand rubles.
All I knew at that time was that the IZH-49 should have a gear change on the tank and mufflers with fish at the end. Having found out that all this is there and the motorcycle seems to be running, but without documents, it is located 50 km from us. – I said that I’ll take it and come for it tomorrow.
It was January, time 15:00. I called my father and asked for Gazelle for tomorrow. The father says, “Let’s go and pick it up today, so wait.” And they did the right thing, while they were on the road, two more called the owner and wanted to pick it up, but didn’t have time.
We negotiated down to 8 tr, loaded it into the Gazelle and drove back home. I was happy like a child whose very, very dream has come true, and you won’t believe it, 1.5 years have passed, I’m still happy about it, I can’t resist driving it on the weekends.

In the morning, run to it and examine it. They picked him up in the dark, there was an Ilyich light bulb in the garage, there wasn’t much to see. It looks intact, it runs conditionally - “someone, once, recently, drove it with a magneto attached.” Rust, bruises, all in accordance with its age and living conditions.
It was completely stripped of all electrical and wiring. It turned out to be painted dark blue, but it was obviously repainted at some point, and with high quality, not with a brush in the garage and completely. But apparently it was a very long time ago, and for everyone it was a piece of old iron, but not for me.
Having surfed the Internet, I immediately found myself on a forum about IZH-49 motorcycles and a little about motorcycles of those years that were close in age, and from that time on I never left it. They will always help with advice, details, links, a very friendly and friendly forum.

This is where the Lyrics end.
Practice.
Let me start with the fact that at the age of 30, I had never repaired or operated a motorcycle. Jupiter 2 at 16 years old doesn’t count, it’s only been ridden, picking with a screwdriver and a wrench at 10 doesn’t count.
Again, I’ll make a reservation: no with motorcycles, but yes with cars. Everything a man needs to be able to do with a domestic car, he did everything and did not cause any difficulties. Serving in the army in a UAZ complemented my skills, and life in general did not spoil me with the presence of new cars, much less foreign cars. Anyway.
Armed with a book and printouts from the Internet, I sat down in the garage in subzero conditions from the forum. Before completely disassembling it, I decided to start it and take it for a ride down the street.
I consider the distribution board to be the heart of the IZH-49 motorcycle. box. This is a small black box in which the ignition coil, relay regulator, ignition switch and charging indicator light are hidden. All this is turned on with a bizarrely shaped key. On the following models of the Izhevsk Motor Plant, there was nothing like this.
I assembled an electrical circuit from IZ Planet for a test run. Ignition coil 6V + PP1 + battery + generator. It took time to search through friends, gave something as a gift, bought something in a store (a waste of money, nothing works, because it was made in China and of very poor quality).
Finally the day came when he started up by some miracle! Having sat down in the yard, I tried to turn on the speed, it turned on, but the motorcycle went...... backwards.

Ignition too early, the crankshaft has turned in the opposite direction! It was not going to start again and the frost outside, at -18, did not add to my desire.
The next weekend, I started it up again and tried to drive it out, but the chain broke. The chain turned out to be larger than usual, either from a combine harvester or from a conveyor belt, it doesn’t matter. A new chain costs 300 rubles, I installed it. Forward! But no, after driving another 2 meters, the throttle cable broke.
All! Enough! Disassembled for repair!
I decided to clean off the old paint using a brush attachment on an angle grinder. This is HELL! Only thanks to enthusiasm and the desire to ride it in the spring, I was urged on. The process is absolutely disgusting. The wire from the brush is flying in all directions, digging into the clothes (I worked strictly with glasses), the paint turns into dust, the grinder tries to pull out of my hands at every uneven part of the part.
And the number of frame and body parts! During painting, I counted - about 60 pieces and mostly small things!.. All sorts of subframes, spacers for the center step, spacers for the signal, spacers, seats disassembled into components, etc.

I will never do this again. It’s better to pay, wait, negotiate for sandblasting, but not this!
Through an acquaintance, the engine was sent to the Balakovo speedway club “Turbina” for major repairs. To mechanic Vitaly - Thank you!
Despite its 60-year age, only bearings, seals and rings were replaced.

I took the tank and fenders to a car paint shop, and painted everything else myself, mastering this craft for the first time. Repainted, re-cleaned, re-painted. It turned out fine.

The most difficult thing is to draw the digits (thin lines on the frame, tank, wings).
At the factory, this was done by women who, with a steady hand and a brush with a long end made of natural hair, applied the standard lines the first time, apparently approved by the State Commission of the RSFSR. Nowadays, this is an art and is called pinstriping and is popular in America along with airbrushing.
Since there are no pinstripes among Izha owners, everyone does what they can. The best method in terms of results is gluing the contours of the markings with ZM contour tape, covering the rest of the surface and painting with a spray gun.
In my case, it was electrical tape cut across and painted with a brush. The results were different. In some places it’s very good, in others it’s a bit crooked.

First experience in painting with auto enamel.

Motorcycle assembly

"Izh-49" is a middle-class motorcycle for paved roads, produced by the Izhmash plant from 1951 to 1958. A total of 507,603 two-wheeled vehicles rolled off the assembly line. Since the Izh-49 is a motorcycle with a long history, it became an exhibit of the antique motor vehicle museum in Vladivostok. The exhibition site in the Primorsky Territory is not the only place where this centenarian is demonstrated. The classic lines of the legendary two-wheeled car can be found in Moscow, St. Petersburg, Riga, and Minsk. The regions in which the motorcycle appeared cannot be counted; in fact, this is most of the territory of the former USSR.

Story

After the end of the Great Patriotic War, machine tools from the Dampf Kraft Wagen (DKW) motorcycle plant were removed from defeated Germany as part of reparation agreements. The action was large-scale, entire production lines came to the USSR, and at one time Soviet engineers did not know what to do with the unique German equipment. In the end, it was decided to send all technical equipment to Izhevsk, to the Izhmash plant.

After several years of development and production of a trial model of the DKW NZ 350, it became clear: German equipment is quite viable. Factory specialists began to prepare a production line for the production of a middle-class road motorcycle. Enthusiasts of the Soviet automobile industry tried to create an exclusive copy with domestic characteristics. However, German equipment one way or another forced specialists to follow German technologies.

Start of release

In 1951, the Izh-49 model, a motorcycle created on the basis of a German prototype, was launched into mass production. The car as a whole turned out to be successful; over seven years of continuous production it won wide recognition. The 49th “Izh”, a motorcycle with excellent characteristics, was discontinued in 1958, since the production of a new generation of motorcycles, the “Izh-56”, had already begun. And soon the last 49 rolled off the assembly line.

It is characteristic that for a long time Izh-49 dominated the market. Its successor, the 56th, was not successful. In addition, the new motorcycle was poorly designed and literally bogged down in endless modifications.

Characteristics of the motorcycle "Izh-49"

Dimensions and weight parameters:

• 2120 mm - motorcycle length;
• 980 mm - height;
• 770 mm - width; dry weight - 150 kg;
• full loaded weight - 165 kg;
• maximum load capacity - 160 kg.

Driving performance:

• without a passenger - 90 km/h;
• cruising range on the highway with one refueling - 170-180 kilometers;
• ford depth - 300 millimeters;
• fuel consumption when driving on the highway - 4.5 liters per 100 km;
• - drum mechanisms on both wheels;
• telescopic front fork, spring, with hydraulic shock absorption;
• pendulum, spring, with hydraulic shock absorbers;
• multi-disc clutch, in oil bath;
• transmission - four-speed gearbox with foot shift;
• tire size - 3.25/19";
• drive to the rear wheel via a roller chain with a gear ratio of 2.33.

Engine

• The Izh-49 engine is two-stroke, single-cylinder;
• piston stroke - 85 mm;
• cylinder diameter - 72 mm;
• cylinder volume - 346 cubic meters. cm;
• compression degree - 5.8;
• maximum power - at 4000 rpm 11.5 hp;
• lubrication system - a mixture of oil and fuel in a ratio of 1:25 for a run-in engine;
• air cooling.

The design of the engine allowed its operation in any conditions: the unit worked smoothly and measuredly.

The Izh-49 engine crankcase is block-type, consists of two longitudinal halves, the front section houses the crank chamber with the crankshaft, and the rear section houses the gearbox. The kick starter and gear shift lever are located on the same axis, on the left side of the engine.

Chassis

The telescopic fork is combined with a protective shield, which is usually called a fender, and the brakes are also mounted there. At the top of the steering wheel there is a parabolic headlight with a built-in speedometer. There are also two light bulbs, red and green, that react to changes in the electrical network. "Izh-49" is a motorcycle that does not require a battery; the entire circuit can be powered by a magneto.

The steering wheel can be moved within 35 degrees both to the left and to the right. The steering bar is adjustable in height and is fixed taking into account the height of the motorcyclist. On the right side of the gas tank there is a manual gear shift lever, which duplicates the foot shift lever. Both methods of changing gears are equivalent; the motorcycle driver chooses the most convenient one for himself.

Seats

Since the 49th "Izh" is not a high-speed motorcycle, its seats are designed for a comfortable ride, the saddle area is quite large, the surface is corrugated, with good shock-absorbing properties, springs are mounted under the plate, which take the load and significantly soften the shaking. On some motorcycles, the rear passenger seat is the same shape and with the same parameters, but smaller in size. On other specimens, ordinary foam cushions covered with thick fabric are installed.

Some owners customize the rear seat to suit the tastes of their regular passengers to make friends and family comfortable. For a child who regularly rides in the back seat, it is necessary to make a backrest that is approximately the same as that of a chair, but it should be stronger. The material can be a metal rod with a cross section of 8-10 millimeters. Several posts are welded to the base, and a horizontal ligament is created along the top, which will act as a support.

Of course, the improvised child seat must be removable so that, if necessary, an adult can sit in the passenger seat. There can be many options for arranging the rear part, it all depends on the creative approach of the owner.

Rare value

The Izh-49 motorcycle (the photos presented on the page show it in all its glory) is a rather elegant machine from the distant past, and it can decorate any collection of motor vehicles. The model is practically absent on the market. If you manage to find a copy, then most often it cannot be restored. The Izh-49 motorcycle, the price of which today reaches three thousand dollars, is the dream of many connoisseurs of two-wheeled rarities.

In most cases, tuning is not applied to the Izh-49, since this is a car of a class where it is better to restore the motorcycle than to modify it to suit the owner’s imagination. The best reward for the owner will be a skillfully restored Izh-49 motorcycle. Photos of the car, which received a second life, will become a memory for posterity.

>> Telescopic fork. Telescopic fork - removal, disassembly, assembly and installation. Replacing shock absorber fluid

LLC "World of Autobooks"

Telescopic fork - removal, disassembly, assembly and installation. Replacing shock absorber fluid

Removal

The telescopic fork has to be removed and disassembled when there are knocking noises during movement, deterioration of vibration damping, leaks, as well as a planned replacement of shock absorber fluid.

1. Remove the front wheel with the brake drum cover (see p. 98).

2. Disconnect the front wheel mud shield from the left sliding pipe of the fork.

3. Using a 14 mm wrench, loosen the tightening of the nut of the coupling bolt of the upper yoke of the steering column.

4. Using a 27 mm wrench, unscrew the shock absorber plug a few turns.

5. Using a 17 mm wrench, loosen the tightening of the nut of the lower bridge (cross beam) coupling bolt.

6. Using light blows of a hammer through a wooden spacer, knock out the supporting pipe from the upper and lower traverses.

7. Remove the fork leg from the lower crossbar.

Similarly, remove the second fork leg.

Installation

Install the plug in reverse order.

Disassembly

1. Remove the fork leg from the motorcycle (see above).

2. Turn out the shock absorber plug completely.

3. Turning the fork blade over, drain the shock-absorbing fluid.

4. Holding the pen in a vice by the lower tip, use an 11 mm socket wrench with an extension to remove the bolt securing the hydraulic shock absorber.

5. Take out the shock absorber along with the spring.

6. Use a special ring or “gas” wrench to unscrew the oil seal housing.

7. Remove the sliding pipe from the supporting pipe.

8. Clamp the shock absorber in a vice through the gasket at the lower tip.

9. Using a 13 mm wrench, unscrew the nut and locknut of the rod, having previously remembered (written down) the size of the protruding threaded part of the rod.

10. Remove the nuts, washer and spring.

11. Using a 12 mm spanner, unscrew the rod tip.

12. Remove the rod assembly from the shock absorber strut.

13. We wash all parts of the removed shock absorber in kerosene or white spirit.

14. After washing, inspect the shock absorber parts. We replace damaged parts.

15. Check the condition of the rubber seals. There should be no significant wear on their edges, cracks or loss of elasticity.

If any malfunctions are found, replace the oil seal housing assembly.

16. Use a screwdriver to pry up the felt seal (the seal has an oblique cut) and remove it from the housing.

17. Using a caliper or micrometer, measure the outer diameter of the support pipe.

18. Using a bore gauge, measure the internal diameter of the sliding pipe ring.

The difference between the outer diameter of the support pipe (see paragraph 17) and the inner diameter of the ring (gap) should not exceed 0.3 mm.

19. Measure the outer diameter of the ring.

20. Using a bore gauge, measure the internal diameter of the sliding pipe. The difference in diameters (see clause 19) of these parts (gap) should not exceed 0.25 mm.

In case of increased wear (increased clearances), we replace the worn parts or the fork leg assembly.

Attention!

The chrome-plated surface of the sliding pipe (mirror) must be completely smooth. In case of scuffs, nicks and other damage to the surface layer, we replace the pipe or fork leg assembly.

Assembly

1. Assemble the shock absorber in the reverse order, paying attention to the position of the rod tip pin. The pin should fit into the hole in the bottom of the sliding pipe.

To do this, rotate the shock absorber by hand, grasping the rod nuts. Only after this can you tighten the bolt with an 11 mm socket wrench.

2. We wash the felt seal in gasoline, wring it out, then soak it in engine oil, lightly wring it out again and install it in the body.

Replacing shock absorption fluid

We replace the fluid in both fork legs at the same time.

Place the motorcycle on the center stand. We take out the front wheel axle (see p. 98). It is not necessary to disconnect the brake and speedometer cables from the wheel.

1. Using a 14 mm wrench, loosen the tightening of the nuts of the coupling bolts on both sides of the upper crossmember of the fork.

6. Tighten the bolts.

7. Pour 200 cm3 of kerosene or white spirit into the upper part of each shock absorber and tighten the plugs. We place a wooden block under the lower ends of the fork.

8. Using vigorous movements, pressing the steering wheel from top to bottom several times, pump the shock absorbers, washing them.

9. Having unscrewed the lower bolts, drain the flushing fluid (if it is very dirty, you should fill in clean fluid again and repeat the flushing).

10. We tighten the lower bolts and fill the shock absorbers with 175 cc. see fresh shock absorber fluid. As a shock absorber fluid, you can use power steering oil, automatic transmission oil (ATF) or spindle oil (AU). The first two types are preferable due to the content of anti-friction and anti-foam additives. This allows you to increase the time required to replace the fluid and reduces wear on parts. Engine oil, and especially transmission oil, is unsuitable for the front fork; it is too viscous, which will make the suspension stiff, especially in cold weather. Attention!

The shock absorbers must be filled with liquid of the same type (brand).

11. We tighten the shock absorber plugs and the nuts of the upper crossmember coupling bolts in the reverse order.

12. Check the tightness of the shock absorber. Even the slightest leak of shock absorber fluid is unacceptable! If necessary, you can “put” the lower bolts on an oil-resistant sealant, but so that the sealant particles do not get inside the shock absorber.

13. Similarly, replace the fluid in the other shock absorber.

14. After assembling and installing the telescopic fork (see above), we test its operation when the motorcycle is moving at low speed on an uneven road. The shock absorbers should move smoothly, without knocking, clicking or jamming. Damping of vibrations should occur quickly and completely, the front wheel of the motorcycle should not bounce on uneven surfaces.