Flushing a car's cooling system is an important and, at the same time, very rare event for most motorists. And as it shows, it is very in vain, because the performance of the entire power unit depends on how the engine will function. In addition, cooling the engine does not allow it to overheat, thereby preventing the need to “overhaul” the engine. What is overheating and why is it dangerous?

What is the best way to flush the cooling system at a service station or do it yourself?

The first option is certainly simpler, but it is also more expensive, the second is less pleasant, but you will gain invaluable experience and also get good savings. If you are not short on time and have a little understanding of what SOD is, then I recommend flushing the cooling system yourself. Read on to find out how to do this.

Features and methods of flushing the cooling system

As I already said, unfortunately, the vast majority of car owners do not even know about the need to carry out such a procedure, perhaps you do the same - just top up the level and that’s it. However, this will not always be the case, and at one unpleasant moment the cooling system will simply stop functioning, and you will get overheating with all the consequences... I recommend monitoring the condition of the antifreeze, and not adding it, but making a complete replacement, then during draining you will be able to see the what condition it is in. If you have drained the coolant and it is black or dark brown, you know that your cooling system has big problems.

There are two types of SOD purification:

External - when insects, dust, oily stains, dirt and other nasty things are removed from the surface of the radiator. Typically, this cleaning is done using a jet and car shampoo.

Dirty radiator - poor cooling

Internal - provides for the removal of deposits consisting of rust, scale, antifreeze decomposition products and rubber parts from the engine cooling jacket and radiator. In addition, contamination and scale are possible in cases where the car owner uses ordinary tap water as coolant. This should not be done under any circumstances, since such water contains a huge amount of salts, impurities and various substances, which, when heated, are deposited on the walls of the cooling system in the form of plaque, complicating heat transfer and reducing the cross-section of the SOD passages.

Where does scale and deposits come from in the cooling system?

As you know, antifreeze does not form scale, however, if you do not completely replace it, but constantly add it, then over time its concentration will consist of more than half of water, and the additives that are included in its composition will begin to disintegrate, depositing on the walls thick layer of plaque. Read above about what happens next. Dust, oil, dirt, rubber waste and rust also contribute to contamination and can create a blockage in the cooling system or simply deposit as deposits on the walls.

How to rinse SOD?

• Water.
• Water with vinegar and acid.
• Special liquid for flushing the cooling system.

Flushing the cooling system with water

Although it is possible to flush the system with water, I would strongly advise against doing so. As I already said, it contains a large amount of impurities and salts that form scale. If there is no other option, then at least use distilled water. Flushing the cooling system using distilled water is done as follows:

1. Pour water into the SOD.
2. Start the engine and let it run for about half an hour.
3. Then turn off the engine and drain the water from the system. Repeat the procedure until your flushing fluid is the same as before flushing. The disadvantages of this method include: scale formation, low efficiency (boiling water is not able to dissolve and wash scale and other deposits).

Flushing the cooling system with water, acid and vinegar

Water with vinegar and acid is a little better than just water, because thanks to acids you can remove scale and partially clean the cooling system. In order to flush the system using this method, prepare: caustic soda, lactic acid and vinegar. The acid is added carefully and a little at a time; if you overdo it, you can say goodbye to the plastic and rubber parts of the cooling system. To completely remove scale and dirt, it takes 5-10 hours, during which it is necessary to periodically warm up the engine to operating temperature. At the end, all the liquid is drained and distillate is poured in, which is used for the final flushing of the cooling system.

Washing SOD using special chemicals

Specialist. means are the most effective and expensive option. However, the effectiveness of such a procedure is worth the overpayment. Cleaning products contain special cleaning agents that actively remove scale, grease, organic matter, etc.

Flushing specials products are divided into four types: acidic, alkaline, two-component, neutral.

Acid and alkaline are considered the least popular; moreover, they are almost impossible to find undiluted. This is explained by their aggressive effect on the entire cooling system, essentially plastic and rubber products.

Two-component products- very popular and in great demand. Their 2-component solution consisting of alkali and acid copes well with the task. Each of the components is poured into the radiator in turn.

Included neutral means When cleaning the cooling system, there are no aggressive substances, such as acids or alkalis, and they are used exclusively for preventive purposes.

Summing up

As you can see, there are quite a few ways and means to clean the cooling system and each of them has its own characteristics. If you do not want to spend money on expensive cleaning products, follow basic rules that will prevent the formation of plaque and scale. Namely:

• Fill only with high-quality antifreeze.
• Monitor its condition regularly and replace it on time.
• From time to time, wash the SOD using special. facilities.

That's all for me, thank you all for your attention and for visiting our

With constant use of the car, the cooling system becomes clogged over time. Plaque forms on the conductive tubes, deposits of various substances appear and the engine ceases to be fully cooled. This happens because this very coating has limited thermal conductivity and cooling is simply physically impossible through its layer. Plaque forms for various reasons, but in general terms we can say that this is the same scale that appears in the kettle after boiling. In addition to low thermal conductivity, another negative effect is a narrowing of the diameters of the tubes. Over time, the coolant itself changes its chemical properties, which gives another disadvantage in the form of additional deposits. The engine stops cooling normally even if the radiator is clogged with dust and debris. Taken together, all this leads to a decrease in the service life of the unit, and, in the end, to “boiling,” which is fraught with major repairs.

There are a number of signs that make it clear that it is time to flush the system:

• the pump is not working well;
• The coolant temperature sensor shows unusual values;
• the engine overheats;
• Cold or slightly warm air comes out of the heater deflectors.

It is recommended to flush the system once every year, and if the car is new, it can be done less frequently, but in general, ideally at every coolant change. This is done either in a specialized service, or independently. There is nothing complicated in this procedure.

Washing methods

The system is flushed in different ways. For this, either water (distilled is highly desirable), a self-prepared solution, or special chemical liquids sold in any auto store are used. It is recommended to park the car on a platform; the front part can be installed slightly higher than the rear. A container is placed under the bottom of the car into which the coolant will drain. First, unscrew the radiator cap and pour out everything that is poured there. Next, you need to unscrew the cap of the expansion tank and the plug located on the engine itself. This can only be done when the car has completely cooled down, otherwise burns may occur. Immediately after this, you can and even need to clean the outer part of the radiator from dust and dirt. If the radiator is very dirty, it can be flushed with a Kärcher or blown with a compressor, if available.

Flushing the cooling system with water is not the best way. It can only be used if the car is new and the used antifreeze is not very dirty. It is worth using distilled water, since ordinary water contains salts and other contaminants, which in the end can only make things worse. Well, as a last resort, you can try rinsing with boiled water. The procedure looks like this: water is poured into the radiator, then the car starts and runs until the fan turns on. The engine is turned off, the car cools down, the water is drained, and then the procedure is repeated until the drained liquid becomes completely transparent. It won’t hurt to blow out the system with a compressor before adding antifreeze, if possible. The method has disadvantages: new scale may form, and ordinary water simply cannot dissolve contaminants.

The next best quality rinse is acidified water. It makes sense to use it on Soviet and Russian cars with high mileage, since it is a cheap and accessible method of washing. Use citric acid or vinegar. It is also possible to use caustic soda or lactic acid.

It is best to use, of course, citric acid, due to its availability. The calculation is approximately this: one hundred to two hundred grams of acid are added per liter of water. You should not put more, as if the consumption is too concentrated, damage to the plastic parts may occur.

It is washed in the following order: the prepared solution is poured into the system, the engine starts and runs until the fan turns on (exactly the same as when washing with ordinary water). Next, the car is left for several hours, the water is drained and a new solution is poured. Everything, as always, is washed until clean water comes out. After completing the procedure, you can fill it with distilled water and drain it without warming up the engine. This will flush out any remaining acids.

Some car enthusiasts wash debris out of the cooling system with regular Coca-Cola. Indeed, it perfectly removes scale due to the huge content of orthophosphoric acid in it. But the sugar content in it is also huge, so in this way you can simply completely clog the system. In addition, the drink is carbonated, which means there may be consequences for the engine due to expanding gases.

In a word, this method is suitable only for those who do not mind their car at all. It will work, but with unpredictable consequences. The same controversial method includes flushing with liquids for cleaning toilets. A prerequisite after using such aggressive agents is a final rinse with water.

The best way, of course, is to use special products designed specifically for this procedure. They are divided into several classes - alkaline, acidic, two-component or neutral. This division occurred because different types of contaminants are washed differently. For example, scale and deposits will be perfectly dissolved by acid, and the remains of antifreeze will be dissolved by alkali. But these two connections cannot be connected to each other, so only one is used. Two-component liquids work in turns: first one flows, then the second. This solution is quite effective, although it is more expensive. The process is similar to the previous methods - liquid is poured in, the car starts, warms up, and the system “drives” it in a large circle. The only difference is that the label will most often indicate the engine operating time required for complete cleaning. Then the “chemistry” is drained and, depending on the resulting effect, the procedure is either repeated or antifreeze is immediately added. Neutral solutions never include all kinds of alkalis and oxidizing agents, but due to their special chemical composition they cope with their functions quite well.

There is another class of special liquids based on the catalysis process. Such agents can simply be added to antifreeze for preventive purposes. It is very convenient to flush such liquid: you just need to pour it into the expansion tank and continue driving as usual. In this case, all substances will dissolve completely and you can be sure that the radiator tubes will not be clogged with debris and residues. In fact, this method is the simplest and does not cause any harm to the engine.

A quick and quite effective method in some cases is forced flushing. In this case, water is supplied to the system under pressure and washed until the water coming from the engine plug becomes clear. This method has all the same disadvantages as rinsing with hot water, however, if you need to rinse quickly, this is not the worst solution.

After all procedures, regardless of the chosen option, an air lock may appear. This can be easily solved - part of the car is jacked up, or simply driven onto a small hillock. If this does not help, it will be enough to disconnect the throttle pipe and the plug will immediately dissolve.

Myths about flushing the cooling system

You can often hear a number of myths on specialized forums, in conversations, and even during consultations in a store:

• The liquid is poured in when the engine is turned on. This should not be done; the unit may be damaged;
• You should never wash it at all. This is also not true, this will become clearly visible after you look at the dirty liquid that has been drained;
• special liquids are just a marketing ploy and a way to make money. No, rather this refers to rinsing with plain water;
• Pressure washing can be done with the engine running. A great way to ruin a car.

Results

There is only one conclusion from all of the above - flushing the engine yourself is not at all difficult and can be done without any special tools. Performing this task is possible even for a beginner, but you should not listen to the sometimes very harmful advice of all kinds of garage “professionals”. And the obvious advantages of this procedure are normal operation of the cooling system and increased engine life, so flushing is a completely justified scam in terms of time and labor costs.

For proper operation of the power unit, it is necessary to ensure normal thermal operating conditions. For this purpose, water cooling of the motor is provided. During normal operation, it does not overheat or overcool, and if it is clogged, it is necessary to flush the engine cooling system.
Water or antifreeze is used as the coolant for circulation in the car.

If you use ordinary water, then during operation scale or salt deposits may form on the walls of the radiator or on the crankcase.

Dirt deposits in the engine cooling system

When using antifreeze, no salt deposits are observed, but with prolonged use it can decompose and form various deposits in the lines.
Cleaning should be done if there are interruptions in maintaining the temperature of the car or periodically, for prevention. (at least once every two to three years)

Cleaning methods

There are several cleaning methods:

Special chemicals

There are also many different special products for cleansing. All of them are divided into several types according to their chemical composition:

System check

After flushing the engine cooling system using any of the methods, you should break in the engine and determine how the car works - better than before flushing or by itself. If you are not satisfied with the result, the procedure can be repeated, perhaps in a different way. It is also necessary to diagnose the cooling for possible leaks. It should also be taken into account that the cause of malfunction can also be a formed air lock, so when filling in coolant, you need to ensure that there is no air in the system.

Sooner or later, all car owners are faced with the problem of deteriorating cooling system performance and the need to clean it.
Signs of this may include:

• temperature increase at the sensor;
• fan running without interruption;
• problems with the pump;
• frequent “airiness” of the system;
• poor operation of the stove.

A common cause of these problems may be clogging of the cooling system (CO) itself. Even if antifreeze or antifreeze has always been used, over time, decomposition products of these liquids accumulate in the CO, which can clog the radiator honeycombs and be deposited on the hoses and pipes of the system.

As a result, the movement of coolant through the system deteriorates, which additionally loads the fan and pump. To avoid these problems, it is necessary to completely clean the CO at least once every 2 years.

CO cleaning is carried out both externally and internally.

External cleaning of CO involves washing or blowing the radiator fins from the accumulation of fluff, dirt, and insect residues. Flushing is carried out under low pressure to avoid mechanical damage to the radiator honeycombs. In addition, the blades and fan housing are blown and wiped with a damp cloth.

The purpose of internal CO cleaning is to remove scale, rust and antifreeze decomposition products from the system. It is better to entrust internal cleaning of CO to professionals at special stands. But often there is not enough time or finances to visit a service station.

For self-cleaning of CO, auto chemical manufacturers have developed special cleaning agents. They can be divided into four categories:

• acidic;
• alkaline;
• two-component;
• neutral.

Scale and rust are removed with acid washes. Decomposition products of coolants are washed off with alkalis. Two-component washes are used for deep cleaning of CO and affect all types of contamination. Acidic and alkaline liquids are poured alternately.

Neutral flushes use catalysts that dissolve all contaminants to a colloidal state, eliminating clogging of the radiator honeycomb with decomposition products. The convenience of using neutral washes is that they are simply added to the antifreeze and do not stop the operation of the car.
When using industrial CO flushes, be sure to carry out all stages of work according to the instructions. Failure to follow instructions can lead to disastrous results.

Traditional methods of flushing the cooling system

There are traditional methods for cleaning CO. Since they are less expensive, they are especially popular. However, do not forget that when using such products, extreme caution and safety precautions must be observed, since cleaning compositions contain acids and alkalis.

CO Rinsing with Citric Acid

A solution of citric acid allows you to clean the radiator pipes and honeycombs from minor rust. A solution of citric acid is prepared at the rate of 20-40 grams of acid per 1 liter of distilled water. With large accumulations of rust, the concentration of the solution increases to 80-100 g per 1 liter of water.

Procedure for cleaning with citric acid

1. Drain the antifreeze from the cooled engine and radiator.
2. Fill the prepared solution to the bottom mark in the expansion tank.
3. Start the engine, bring it to operating temperature, do not turn it off for 10-15 minutes, leave for 6-8 hours (preferably overnight).
4. Drain the solution completely.
5. Rinse with distilled water. If the drained water is dirty, repeat the flushing.
6. Refill with fresh antifreeze.

CO Rinsing with Acetic Acid

A solution of acetic acid is prepared at the rate of 50 g per 1 liter of water. The washing procedure is the same as when using citric acid. It is better to keep the engine running for 30-40 minutes.

Wash with whey

1. Prepare 10 liters of whey (preferably homemade).
2. Strain the whey through several layers of cheesecloth to remove large particles.
3. Drain the coolant completely.
4. Pour the strained whey into the expansion tank.
5. Start the engine and drive at least 50 km.
6. Drain the whey only when it is hot, to avoid dirt sticking to the walls of the pipes.
7. Cool the engine.
8. Rinse thoroughly with distilled water until the drained liquid is completely clean.
9. Fill with new antifreeze.

Cleaning the radiator with caustic soda

Important! The use of caustic soda is only possible for flushing copper radiators. It is prohibited to wash aluminum radiators with soda.

To remove dirt from the radiator, use a 10% caustic soda solution.

1. Remove the radiator from the car.
2. Heat one liter of the prepared solution to 90 degrees.
3. Pour hot solution into the radiator and keep it there for 30 minutes.
4. Drain the solution.
5. Alternately flush the radiator with hot water and blow with air at low pressure in the direction opposite to the movement of antifreeze. Rinse until clean water appears.
6. Install the radiator on the car and connect the pipes.
7. Refill with fresh antifreeze.

If distilled water is not available, you can simply use boiled water.

The engine cooling system provides the temperature required for the vehicle, which is important for the operation of the cylinder-piston group units, extending their service life. For high-quality operation of the cooling system, it is important to flush it on time. The means and methods of washing are described below.

1 Why flush the cooling system?

Before considering the means and process of washing, you should understand its necessity and the regulations for the procedure. During operation of the cooling system, contaminants in the form of rust, oxidation, oil deposits, coolant decomposition products and scale accumulate on the walls of the pipeline and radiator.

Over time, the permeability decreases; the system does not quickly remove heat from the cylinder walls, which leads to overheating. This has a negative impact on engine parts: wear increases and service life is reduced.

The radiator and system need to be flushed both inside and outside. External washing involves cleaning the surface from dust, dirt, and adhering insects. The inside of the cooling system should be flushed at least once a year. It is better to do this when the frosts have passed, in the spring, before the summer season. An indicator with a radiator on the dashboard indicates a lack of antifreeze, the need to replace the radiator or clean the cooling system.

The following indirect signs indicate the need for flushing:

• problems with the heater;
• brown color of used coolant;
• frequent overheating of the power unit;
• slow response to rheostat signals;
• high temperature sensor readings;
• problems with the pump;
• The fan constantly works in high mode.

If the above symptoms appear, the cooling system should be flushed with a special product. There are two types of remedies: folk and industrial. The use of folk remedies is attractive due to their availability and low cost, but their effectiveness is too low, and improper preparation of the solution can affect rubber and plastic elements.

Ready-made factory cleaners are designed for flushing the engine cooling system, and therefore contain substances that effectively remove various types of contaminants found in the engine. At the same time, they contain additives that protect plastic and rubber parts.

2 Flush the cooling system with distilled water

It is better to carry out the washing procedure outside in the summer, and in a warm garage in the winter. The procedure is simple, so it can be done at home even by car enthusiasts without experience. The main thing is to follow the rules of the procedure. Before starting work, you need to wait until the engine has cooled down. The car must be placed on a flat horizontal plane. To ensure safety, work should be carried out wearing protective gloves.

Having opened and secured the hood, we place a container under the radiator to drain the working coolant. We drain the antifreeze from the radiator and engine one by one. To do this, unscrew the drain caps of the units. Based on the condition of the drained liquid, you can judge the degree of contamination of the cooling system. When heavily contaminated, the liquid flows out in a dark brown color; it contains particles of rust, scale, etc.

Rinsing with distilled water is the simplest, but least effective method. Do not use regular tap water to flush the cooling system. As a last resort, it is possible to use boiled water, which should boil for at least 20 minutes, then a minimum amount of salts will remain in it.

The algorithm for washing is as follows:

1. First, pour distilled water into the radiator (provided that the waste liquid has already been drained).
2. Then we start the engine and let it idle for about 15-20 minutes.
3. After turning off the engine, drain the fluid from the system.
4. We repeat the procedure until clean water flows out.

Flushing with distilled water can be used if the car is relatively new and there is no severe contamination in the antifreeze being drained.

3 Folk remedies for washing - citric and acetic acid

In addition to distilled water, there are other effective folk remedies for flushing, such as acidified water. Below are several recipes for solutions based on citric and acetic acids.

Citric acid is more suitable for systems that have been filled with water, as the acid effectively removes rust. The cleaning solution is prepared as follows: 20-40 g of acid are diluted in a liter of water. To remove heavy contaminants, the amount of acid should be increased to 80-100 g. A large volume of solution is prepared in a similar proportion.

To carry out cleaning, you need to drain the used antifreeze, fill in the prepared solution, and warm up the engine to operating temperature. Then turn off the engine and leave the solution in the system for several hours, or overnight. Then drain the solution and look at its condition. If the liquid is dirty with a large amount of waste, then the procedure must be repeated. Flushing is carried out until the drained solution is sufficiently clean. At the end of the procedure, the system should be flushed with water, and then new coolant can be added.

Citric acid should be used with caution, as it corrodes rubber and plastic parts.

Acetic acid has a similar effect, effectively removing rust. To prepare the solution you need to take 0.5 liters of vinegar and a 10 liter bucket of water. The procedure is carried out in the same way as with citric acid. Drain out the old antifreeze and fill in the vinegar solution. Then we start the engine and warm it up to operating temperature. Leave the engine running for 30-40 minutes to allow the cleaning fluid to act on the deposits. After draining the cleaning solution, you need to evaluate its condition. If it is dirty, repeat the procedure. When the liquid is clean enough, rinse the system with distilled water and fill in the selected antifreeze.

4 Lactic acid and soda - alternative folk remedies

Using lactic acid, you can clean the cooling system in its pure form, without dilution, but it is difficult to obtain. A more affordable alternative is whey, which works similarly to lactic acid. To carry out the procedure, you need to prepare 10 liters of serum in advance, preferably homemade. Before use, it must be strained several times through cheesecloth to remove large particles of fat.

The procedure begins by draining the old fluid and infusing the serum. Then you need to drive 50-60 km. The effect of the serum lasts several hours, so the trip must be made within this time. You need to drain the whey while it is hot so that dirt does not settle on the tubes again. After waiting for the engine to cool down, you need to pour pre-prepared boiled water into the system and let the engine warm up to operating temperature. Then drain the water, let the engine cool and add new antifreeze.

Caustic soda can only be used for copper radiators; it has a negative effect on aluminum ones. To carry out the procedure, it is necessary to remove the radiator from the car. The unit should be washed inside with clean water and blown with compressed air until the water becomes clear.

Next, prepare a 10% caustic soda solution with a volume of about one liter. Heat the resulting solution to a temperature of 90 degrees and pour it into the radiator. After waiting 30 minutes, drain the liquid. Foam may appear as a result of the chemical reaction; this is normal. Next, for 40 minutes, alternately rinse the unit with hot water and blow with hot air. Air flows should move in the opposite direction to the movement of the pump during operation.

5 Chemicals for flushing the radiator

The use of folk remedies is a cheap way of washing, but special means that have appeared on the car market in a wide range cope more effectively with this task. Based on their chemical composition, cooling system flushing agents are divided into the following types:

• Neutral, not containing acids or alkalis. They are not able to remove heavy contaminants, so they are used for preventive purposes. If used regularly, they are the best option to keep your cooling system clean.
• Alkaline. Thanks to the alkali content, they effectively remove organic contaminants.
• Products containing various acids. They cope well with inorganic contaminants.
• Universal. They contain both alkalis and acids, so they are able to remove various contaminants in the form of scale, antifreeze decomposition products, etc.

Below are the three most popular flushing agents among motorists.

The Russian-made LAVR Radiator Flush Classic is suitable for flushing the cooling system of any car. A 480 gram bottle of product is enough to flush a system with a total volume of 8-10 liters. LAVR fluid is poured into the system and diluted with warm water until the MIN mark is reached. Next, start the engine and let it idle for 10-15 minutes. Then the waste is drained and clean antifreeze is added. LAVR removes dirt well. After using flushing, the service life of the coolant increases by 30-40%.

A distinctive feature of the American Hi-Gear Radiator Flush - 7 minute is its quick application - 7 minutes. The product is sold in 320 ml cans, which is enough to clean a 17 liter cooling system. The composition contains no acids, so the product does not act aggressively on rubber and plastic parts. After its use, the efficiency of the radiator increases by 50-70%, the circulation of coolant improves, the pump seal is protected, and the likelihood of overheating of the power unit is reduced.

The German product LIQUI MOLY Kuhler-Reiniger is very popular. This neutral product, without aggressive acids and alkalis, perfectly cleans the cooling system of oils, rust, lime deposits and emulsions. A 300 ml jar of the product is diluted in 10 liters of coolant. With this solution, the car should idle for 10-30 minutes. After flushing, new antifreeze is poured into the system.

Use the product strictly following the instructions on the package.

There are a large number of products for flushing the cooling system. The use of special products increases the efficiency of the system, performs better cleaning, and extends the service life of the entire vehicle. In this case, there is no need to specially boil water and prepare a solution in advance.