Solid, bright, roomy, with off-road potential, the Chevrolet Captiva crossover has charmed everyone who loves solidity in everything. But this family car also has some shortcomings that you need to pay attention to when buying a used car. In addition to the weak points in this car, there are also disadvantages that every future owner needs to know about.

Weaknesses of the 1st generation Chevrolet Captiva

• steering rack;
• timing mechanism drive;
• stabilizer's pole;
• oil pressure sensor;
• brake pads;
• catalyst.

Details about weak points and their identification...

Steering rack

1. You can find out about the wear of the steering rack during a test drive or by doing diagnostics. It is necessary to pay attention to the appearance of strong vibration of the steering wheel, extraneous noise in the form of grinding, knocking when driving on an uneven road. Turning the steering wheel in any direction will be difficult. This will also cause extraneous sounds. A leak from the steering rack may also be a sign of a problem. It’s worth looking into the reservoir; if the power steering fluid foams a lot, then this is also a sign of a breakdown.

Timing mechanism drive

2. On a Chevrolet Captiva with a 2.4 liter engine, the timing mechanism is driven by a belt. Its wear can result not only in a break, but also in bent valves. The degree of wear can sometimes be determined visually. With a lot of wear, it begins to “shag”. But the first and main signs are on the inside of the belt and are not always visible.

On cars with a 3.2 liter engine there is a timing chain drive. Pulling it out is a common problem with these machines. At the same time, engine thrust decreases, and the on-board computer generates errors.

Chassis

3. The condition of the stabilizer struts largely depends on driving style. Problems with them can be identified by driving the car on an uneven road. Malfunctions of the struts will be indicated by knocking, increased roll and skidding of the car when cornering, as well as swaying when braking. Experienced drivers can also determine if they are broken by rocking the car from each corner. A sign of a malfunction will be a sharp lowering.

4. Most often, the front brake pads wear out on Chevrolet Captiva. This usually happens after driving about 35 thousand kilometers. The rear pads will last almost twice as long. You can check their wear on a test drive. Every time you brake, especially at high speeds, you will hear a metallic squealing or grinding noise. This sound is caused by a wear sensor built into the brake pads.

5. The oil pressure sensor is another weak point of the Captiva. If it malfunctions, the oil pressure indicator light will light up. It may light up when there is over-gassing or in other cases of pressure changes. However, this is not the only reason when this indication comes on. It signals a failure of the oil pump, insufficient oil level, faulty wiring of this important engine part, as well as problems with the engine itself. Therefore, the best solution when the light is on is to have it diagnosed at a service station.

6. The catalyst is also the weak point of this model. It is available on both petrol and diesel engines. The most obvious sign of a problem with it will be a slow acceleration, then the engine starts running as usual again. But it is not always possible to identify this in one short trip, so it is necessary to undergo diagnostics at a service center.

In addition to the above-mentioned problems with the Captiva, when purchasing, you must carefully check the general condition of the car. Go for a drive and listen for noises, knocks, squeaks, whistles and other strange sounds in the area of ​​the engine compartment, chassis and suspension.

The main disadvantages of the Chevrolet Captiva 2006 - 2011 release

1. “Crickets” in the cabin in winter;
2. Low front bumper skirt;
3. The plastic in the interior is easily scratched;
4. Due to the wide A-pillars, visibility is poor;
5. Rigid suspension;
6. Fuel consumption is higher than stated;
7. Weak light at night (no xenon);
8. Pedal difference (brake pedal higher than gas pedal);
9. Weak engine.

Conclusion.
This is a fairly reliable crossover and driving it will be a real pleasure. When used carefully, Chevrolet Captiva does not let its owners down with breakdowns. Therefore, when buying a used car, the ideal test option is to undergo a full diagnostic at a car service center.

P.S.: Dear future and current car owners, if you find sore spots and frequent breakdowns of your car, please report it in the comments.

Was last modified: May 30, 2019 by Administrator

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15 messages per article “ Weaknesses and disadvantages of the Chevrolet Captiva 2.4 liter. and 3.2 l.”

1. Michael

   Also, the weak point of 2.4 engines is the flow of oil into the spark plug wells. Replacing the valve cover gasket solves the problem, but not for long. The reason is the plastic valve cover. Apparently it does over time. Perhaps replacing it with aluminum will solve the problem. When buying a used Captiva, you should look into the spark plug wells. Just remove the caps of the high-voltage wires from the spark plugs and if there is a problem, they will be in the oil.

2. Sergey

   Captiva 2014 goal mileage is almost 60 thousand. I have never changed the stabilizer struts so it’s not the weakest link. I was surprised by the low mileage of the front hubs of 30-50 km and replaced both front hubs. This has never happened to one of my cars. Everyone ran almost 100-110 thousand. I also changed the solenoid exhaust valve.

3. Sergey

   Another very weak point of the Captiva is the hoses for supplying washer fluid to the rear window. During periods of minus, they constantly pop out.

4. Sergey

   Captiva 2.4 petrol 2012 mileage 148,200, replacement of pads 65,000, replacement of front right pillar 105,000, replacement of left hub 148,000 due to no fault of wear, replacement of rear outer silent blocks 148,000, replacement of everything. The problem is that water accumulates in the air in winter due to temperature changes, you have to remove it and check it (car blankets are strictly prohibited), the check light has been on for 3 years, the fault is with the fuel pump, but it works fine, the error is not cleared, for 4 years the consumption was up to 10 city-highway , now 11 liters. The rear window washer hose also popped out once. There are no more problems, I'm happy with the car.

5. Michael

   And how expensive this car is... I also like it very much. But some say it is expensive to maintain. And my salary is about $300

6. Paul

   Chevrolet Captiva 2.2 diesel. The sign on the display indicates that the vehicle needs to be serviced. The revolutions rose to 1600, the diagnostics scolded 4 injectors.

7. Alexei

   Captiva 2.4. I change the thermostat every three years in addition to everything stated above. The radiator turned out to be weak and leaked this year.

8. Vitaly

   I bought a 2013 Captiva last year, 2017. The mileage is now 93 t.km. I'm happy with the car. Consumption is 12-12.4l, it seems a bit much, but for 2.4l, 167hp, it’s probably normal. Climate-auto — with glitches periodically, in manual mode it’s normal. The engine and automatic transmission operate smoothly with good traction. The suspension is a bit harsh on rough roads outside the city, but in the city it is very comfortable. Overall I'm happy with the car.

9. Nikolay

   Koptiva, seven months old, 2008 I bought a second one in 2009. I changed the mouth guard to a mouth guard in the salon two months later. The dealer's fault during the installation of additional equipment was proven. I use it to this day. Satisfied. Periodically requires maintenance and repair like any mechanism. Mileage over 200,000 km. I have changed the front stabilizer struts several times. Rear ones only after 200,000 km. Front and rear stabilizer bushings were replaced after 200 thousand mileage. I replaced the brake discs, a couple of parking sensors, and the gasket under the valve covers twice. Oil seals leaked: crankshaft, camshaft. I'm changing it. I changed the muffler corrugation twice. There was a broken pin on the muffler pants. Unscrewed it and replaced it along with the gasket. The hub began to hum at 200,000 km. - replacement. During the winter, the wipers on the windshield froze—the mechanism needs to be replaced. Replacing the air conditioner switching unit. Replacing the crosspiece on the cardan, changing the rear axle seal twice. Generator - repair. Brushes and bearings are worn out. I changed the front shock absorbers - a scam at the service. They were a little dusty. I think we could go for a long time. The front and rear sales blocks have been changed several times.

10. Sergey

    Chevrolet Captiva 2014 2.4 mileage 75 thousand. The movement of the front windshield blades malfunctioned twice. The first time they fell into place. A year later, the second time there was a malfunction. They stop wherever they want. At the service center they said that their fastening mechanism had become loose and the sprockets were slipping. As a result, there is some wear on the sprockets. They tightened the mechanism. They said if it comes loose again, it needs to be replaced

Many of us have encountered such a problem as turning on the engine icon (Check engine...), the appearance of which frightens car drivers. We offer you the 5 most common reasons why the check engine light comes on on the dashboard.

The engine warning light usually appears without warning. The reason for the appearance of the Check engine cannot be immediately understood. Even if the car has auto diagnostics (for example, in cars such as ,), which scans all car systems for errors and, if any, displays a decryption on the information panel, the reasons for the appearance of the check engine light will not be decrypted.

For most drivers, the appearance of this warning icon on the dashboard means the need to urgently go to an auto repair shop to diagnose and eliminate the reason why the "Check Engine" warning sign appeared. But in fact, in most cases, when the “Check” indication appears, it is possible, and in some cases, perhaps, to eliminate the cause yourself without a trip to a car service center, which will save you money.

1. Replace the oxygen sensor (lambda probe)

The oxygen sensor in your car is part of the exhaust system that monitors how much oxygen is not burned in the engine's combustion chamber. This sensor helps control the vehicle's fuel consumption. A malfunctioning oxygen sensor (lambda probe) means that the car computer is receiving incorrect data, which can significantly increase fuel consumption and reduce engine power. Most cars have 2 to 4 oxygen sensors. If you have a home car error scanner, then by connecting it to the car, you can easily find out which sensor needs to be replaced.

For what reason does the oxygen sensor in a car become unusable? Over time, the sensor becomes covered with a layer of used engine oil (oil soot), which reduces the accuracy of reading sensor readings for regulating the gasoline mixture and distributing the optimum. A malfunction of the oxygen sensor in a car leads not only to, but also to an increased content of harmful CO2 substances in the exhaust.

What to do: If you do not replace a faulty car oxygen sensor, this can lead to your car's catalyst failing (it may burst), which will result in expensive repairs. The cost of new catalysts is very high due to the precious alloys they contain. On some cars, there are several catalysts, the cost of which can reach up to 90,000 rubles. So don't delay replacing the sensor. Although replacing the sensor and its cost is not very small, it is not commensurate with the cost of the exhaust gas catalyst system. You can also save on replacement costs by doing it yourself. Many car manuals have detailed instructions on how to replace the oxygen sensor yourself. If you know where the oxygen sensor is located, then it will not be difficult for you to disconnect the faulty lambda probe and replace it with a new one. Remember that you cannot delay replacing this important element!

2. Check the fuel filler cap

Many drivers, in most cases, when the “check engine” indication appears, will think about serious problems in the car’s engine, but will not even think to check the tightness of the fuel system, which may be compromised due to a defect or an insufficiently tightened fuel tank cap. This is a very common reason for the appearance of the "Check" engine icon.

Reason for the error: Leakage of the fuel system due to the passage of air through the fuel tank filler cap will increase the vehicle's fuel consumption, to which the vehicle's diagnostic system will generate an engine error by turning on the "Check engine" indication on the vehicle's instrument panel.

What to do: If, when the “Check” indication appears, your car has not lost power, and there are no audible signs of engine damage (engine knocking, humming, creaking, etc.), then first check the gas tank for leaks. Your gas cap may be cracked or not tightened enough. If the cap was not tightened enough, then after tightening it all the way, continue driving the car for a while to see if the engine error disappears. To prevent a check engine light from appearing for this reason, check your fuel filler cap regularly. Remember that the cover must be replaced with a new one periodically!

3. Car exhaust catalyst

An automobile catalyst helps a car make engine exhaust gases more environmentally friendly. It converts carbon monoxide and other harmful substances into harmless compounds. If your exhaust catalyst has become unusable, you will notice it not only when the engine icon (check) appears, but also long before that, when the car’s power drops by half. For example, when you press the gas pedal, the car will not have good acceleration dynamics as before.

What can cause a car catalyst to fail: If you regularly service your car in accordance with the car company's maintenance regulations, then the catalyst should not fail. The main reason for catalyst failure is untimely replacement of a faulty oxygen sensor, as well as non-regular replacement of spark plugs when their expiration date expires. When the oxygen sensor or spark plugs are faulty, the conversion of carbon monoxide in the catalyst into harmless chemical elements stops, which leads to overheating of the catalyst, which can therefore fail.

What to do: If your catalyst has become unusable, then you cannot drive a car, since the engine will not work correctly, warning about this by an indication on the dashboard with an engine icon (check). Also, your fuel consumption will be greatly increased, and there will be no engine thrust. Although replacing a catalyst is a very expensive repair, there is no escape from repairs. Although there is an alternative to replacing the catalyst with a flame arrester, this is not a 100 percent option. Unfortunately, if you are not an experienced auto mechanic, you will not be able to replace a faulty exhaust gas catalyst yourself. In any case, you will have to contact a car repair shop. Remember that timely replacement of oxygen sensors and spark plugs protects your catalyst from damage!

4. Replace the mass air flow sensor

The mass air flow sensor regulates how much air needs to be added to the gasoline mixture for optimal ignition of the fuel. The sensor constantly reports data to the car's computer about the amount of oxygen supplied. A faulty mass air flow sensor increases fuel consumption, increases CO2 levels in the exhaust gas, and reduces engine power and smoothness. Also, if the sensor is faulty, poor acceleration dynamics are observed. In cold weather, a car with a faulty sensor has difficulty starting.

What are the reasons for the failure of the mass air flow sensor: Most sensor failures occur due to improper installation of the air filter during its scheduled replacement. Also, if you do not regularly change the air filter, as required by the vehicle maintenance regulations recommended by the manufacturer, the mass air flow sensor may fail.

What to do: Theoretically, you can drive for a long time with a broken mass air flow sensor (several weeks or months). But you will notice that the longer you drive, the more your fuel consumption increases. Replacing the sensor in a car service is not that expensive, since the work itself does not take much time and is quite simple. The main costs are related to the cost of the sensor, which for some car models can be 11,000-14,000 rubles if it is an original sensor or up to 6,000 rubles if it is an analogue substitute. Replacing the sensor yourself is very simple. But due to the low cost of replacing the sensor, you can entrust this work to a mechanic at a car service center. Remember that you need to regularly change the air filter, observing the vehicle maintenance regulations!

5. Replacement of spark plugs and high-voltage wires

Spark plugs in a car are the main components for igniting the fuel mixture. If the spark plugs are faulty, the spark will not be supplied correctly to ignite the gasoline mixture. Faulty spark plugs often result in a lack of spark or an incorrect spark interval, which results in the engine not running properly. If the spark plugs do not work properly during acceleration, especially from a standstill, you may feel slight jolts.

What are the reasons for spark plug failure: Most spark plugs in vehicles built before 1996 need to be replaced every 25,000-30,000 kilometers. In newer cars, spark plugs last more than 150,000 km. However, these scheduled spark plug replacement intervals may be reduced by various factors related to fuel quality and driving style.

What to do: If your spark plugs have not been changed for a long time, or you feel failures in the engine operation associated with ignition, then you must immediately replace them with new ones without delay. Do not try to save money by untimely replacement of spark plugs, since the cost of spark plugs is not very expensive, as well as the work of replacing them. By replacing old spark plugs, you will improve engine performance and reduce your vehicle's fuel consumption. Changing spark plugs yourself is quite easy. Basically, they are easily accessible under the hood of the car. You need a regular spark plug wrench to remove the spark plugs from the engine. It is also advisable to monitor the condition of high-voltage wires, since over time they can become unusable and allow electricity to pass through, which is transferred to the spark plugs, which will reduce the strength of the spark. Remember that regularly replacing spark plugs, in accordance with your car’s maintenance schedule, protects your exhaust catalyst from breakdowns and also improves engine performance!

A modern car is crammed with electronics. Multiple gauges and warning lights on the instrument panel indicate different faults. This progress has not spared Captiva. The most well-known signal is the “CHECK” function lighting up. This is an indication that there are problems with the operation of the engine or control unit.

Video material

The video will tell and show how to fix a check engine light on a car.

Reasons for the check function to light up

The "CHECK" signal is usually located in the very center of the instrument cluster, where the driver can quickly pay attention to it. This function is responsible for the operation of the engine and if it signals, then there may be problems in the operation of this particular unit. Of course, this is scary for any motorist, because repairing the power unit is complex and expensive. But don’t immediately get scared and panic, the reason may be petty.

The check lights up - there will be trouble.

So, let’s look at what are the reasons why the “CHECK” function on the Lada Grant came on:

• If the indicator lights up when you start the engine, then don’t worry, everything works.
• If the “CHECK” lights up and signals for a long time, then, first of all, it is necessary to make a diagnosis, and only then worry.
• If there is a “CHECK” while driving, this may mean that the oil level in the engine is insufficient.
• The “CHECK” function is on - it’s worth checking the engine for signs of depressurization or oil leakage.

If the above reasons do not work, but the “CHECK” is lit, then this may be a signal that the spark plug has failed or low-quality fuel has been filled.

When the “CHECK” function lights up, it indicates that something is wrong with the engines and it is worth carrying out diagnostics before taking other actions.

Deciphering error codes.

Elimination methods

Let's look at some options for eliminating the causes of a fire in the "CHECK" function on a Captiva:

• Bad fuel. The elimination method is quite simple - drain the low-quality fuel and fill in new one. Let the engine run a little and turn it off. If everything is normal, then upon startup, the signal will disappear.
• Spark plug. Unscrew everything and check the gaps, as well as the presence of a spark. Replace faulty spark plugs.
• Coil or wires. We measure resistance and presence of spark. If necessary, we change everything.
• Fuel pump. One of the reasons why the CHECK light may be on. We clean the channels. Or, if necessary, we change the pump itself.

The faults that you can fix yourself are indicated, but if nothing works, you should contact a car service.

Underwater rocks

If the “CHECK” light comes on on a Chevrolet Captiva, then do not panic. Often on cars the signal is supplied from a common ECU, which, like any computer, can malfunction. This may be caused by a short circuit or replacement of electrical circuit elements. Therefore, errors occur in the electronic control unit, which can serve as a “CHECK” signal.

Check on the dashboard.

This problem is quite easy to treat. The ECU itself needs to be connected to a software laptop and errors in the system should be corrected or outdated firmware changed. It is best to entrust this operation to specialists who know how it is done.

Conclusion

The reasons why the “CHECK” function lights up on a Chevrolet Captiva are quite simple, since this sensor is responsible for the full operation of the engine. To identify the causes, it is worth conducting a diagnosis and determining why this happened, and only then eliminating it.

Review from the owner of Chevrolet Captiva 2.4i (167Hp) 2011

• Reviews
• Cars
• Chevrolet
• Captiva

I heard a lot of negative things about the first Captiva and felt the same way about it, even without having experience driving it. But when I accidentally found myself in the cabin of the second Captiva, I was pleasantly surprised. There weren’t any good reviews yet, and then at work they offered to choose a car for around 20 thousand Euros. The second Captiva in the LTS+ configuration was given after long negotiations for 19,500 Euros. Engine 2.4 (167 hp), 6-speed automatic, 7 seats, leather, 65 liter tank, light and rain sensors, etc. Mileage in a month and a half is 2300 km. There is still a small mileage to create an informed opinion about the car, but the first impression is only positive. For that kind of money, Japanese and Europeans of a lower class are available. One of the cars at the company is RAV4 2011. in a poorer configuration (2.0, 150 hp, but 3.5 thousand EUR more expensive. The Rav is tougher, weaker, noisier, smaller, etc. I once drove a CRV 2000, but I won’t compare it. because the generation gap is huge.

So far I am very pleased with the car, consumption is 13 liters per hundred in the city with air conditioning. The assembly is Korean, nothing creaks or whistles.

The box is adaptive, the first thousand was very dull, now it’s better, they promise it will be even better.

There are many advantages, many options. The electric parking brake is very interesting; it can be set and removed by pressing a button, but if you press the gas in the Drive position, it will release itself. Due to space saving (no parking brake lever), there is a huge pocket for all sorts of things between the front seats (a box of whiskey fits in easily :)

Bluetooth allows you to play melodies from your iPhone (Rava doesn’t have this).

The exterior design is beautiful, people turn to look at the car, the only bad thing is that the trunk door was left unchanged.

The plastic is soft, nothing creaks in the cabin, but it’s too early to talk about it. In Rava, the first creaks appeared closer to 10 thousand km.

Good sound insulation and smooth ride.

Cons: it is difficult to adjust the climate control so that it does not hit the driver or passenger; The light sensor is very sensitive and turns on the near one too early; the front bumper is too “heavy” and because of this there is low ground clearance (corrected by removing the bumper apron)

I know that sales of this version have not yet begun in Russia, our Chevrolet dealer in Chisinau belongs to Europe and this model is already on sale in full.

So, there are 9000 km on board. Nothing knocks, creaks, or breaks. The car still makes me happy. The longest trips for five people in a car: Chisinau-Bucharest (480 km). The car behaves with dignity, holds the highway (I compare it with the Prado). The speed increased to 180 km/h.

I removed the lower apron of the front bumper and installed winter tires Bridgestone Blizzak DM-V1 235/65 R17. Due to this, the ground clearance has increased and the car behaves predictably in both snow and ice. At -23 degrees it started up immediately and warmed up within 10 minutes of driving. The heated mirrors and rear window work great. It would be nice to have a seat heating control, but it’s not essential.

The headlight washer covers were stolen. I don’t understand who needed them, but they cost 35 euros apiece.

We're waiting for 15,000 and we'll see what's what.

Review from the owner of Chevrolet Captiva 3.2i V6 4WD (230 Hp) 2010

Review from the owner of Chevrolet Captiva 3.2i V6 4WD (230 Hp) 2010

• Reviews
• Cars
• Chevrolet
• Captiva

Good day, dear “autocrackers”!

I have been the owner of this car for 8 months. But let's start, as they say, from the beginning!

I approached buying a car very seriously, as my girlfriend said: “Even too much...”. I chose for a long time, read reviews, went for a test drive, watched tests on the Internet, consulted with friends, etc. The budget was limited to 1.5 million rubles. I chose a crossover, medium-sized, preferably 7-seater (but this parameter was not decisive), the engine is not the smallest volume, so as not to feel inferior when overtaking and at traffic lights, but not more powerful than 250 hp. (related to the tax rate), all-wheel drive, automatic transmission required, leather interior, preferably “new” with low mileage, drive every day, not too gluttonous, not picky about the quality of gasoline (I live in North Ossetia, the quality of the fuel is here terrible), relatively inexpensive tech. service, relatively reliable - these were the main criteria for the future car.

I was choosing between the Nissan X-trail 2.5 (a good car, but not for me, it seems to me that this car is for those over 40, I’m 26 years old, in no way do I want to offend X-trail drivers, this is solely my opinion), Mazda CX-7 (a car for good roads, doesn’t like bad roads, is very capricious about the quality of gasoline, my good friend was the owner of this car, so he convinced me to refuse to buy this car, because he was tormented by all the ensuing consequences of driving like crazy. ...m gasoline), Mitsubishi Outlander XL 3.2 (I didn’t like the interior, how could you save these 20 cm of leather on the rear seats??? you sit: half your back on the seat, half your back on the plastic wing...), Lexus RX ( excellent car, but we didn’t have any of those in good condition for sale nearby, and we didn’t want to go far), BMW X5 3.0 (for that price they were old; all the X-5 owners I know complain that maintenance is poor -it’s not very cheap and they say that the car is worth it, I don’t argue with that, but it would be a burden for me to maintain this car...), Volks. Touareg 3.0 etc. (every one I looked at, and there were four of them, had a Jackie Chan light on - maybe I was just that lucky?)... In general, I took a long time to choose... And then HE appeared on the market, a Chevrolet Captiva, black in perfect condition, not a single scratch either inside or outside, at the time of purchase, the car was less than a year old (9 months), mileage 7.5 thousand km, 3.2 max. set, tiptronic, 7 seats, etc. The following additional features were installed: chrome package, crankcase protection, multimedia system, with TV tuner, DVD, navigation, rear view camera, 40 GB hard drive, 9 speakers (9th in the panel), ceiling monitor for rear passengers and set-top box with games (not very much games, but my nephew likes to play), an alarm system with auto start and a keyless entry system... The car was from the series that the guys from the Irmscher tuning studio worked on, it had R20 wheels, thresholds, a spoiler, transparent taillights, and a suspension with a lowered ground clearance of 30 mm, the seller also assured me that the car had undergone chip tuning, but I did not check this statement... As a result, after reading a lot of negative reviews about this car, I decided to buy it (I don’t even know why), I figured it was a Chevrolet type, the spare parts weren’t that expensive, etc. I took it with a little caution, because... The assembly is Russian, and there are a lot of negative reviews! But after I negotiated the price to 1 million rubles, and the previous owner offered me a set of original wheels with R18 rims and summer tires, as well as winter tires with studs, I decided to buy it! In the first week, I installed a lock on the automatic transmission and an active sub. under the front passenger seat, xenon in PTF and special. signals (in North Ossetia it’s not cool to drive without them), I covered the Chevrolet badges with black glossy vinyl (well, I don’t like these yellow badges, with black ones it looks much more serious IMHO)... I’ve been driving every day for 8 months now. and to my surprise I am very pleased with the car! Oddly enough, I like this car! She pleasantly surprised me from the first hundred kilometers I spent behind the wheel of this car, and continues to please me to this day, driving the Kaptilka doesn’t bore me, I can even anneal it a little, well, of course, in moderation, 3.2 liters (after all, it’s not 4 ,8 is), but this engine is quite enough for this body! Let's start in order: 1) the interior: very roomy, thought out to the smallest detail, all the drawers are glued with material from the inside so that nothing rattles in them, there are a lot of these drawers, the seats seem to be sewn right for me, they hold me well in turns (and this car loves turns), but I’m disappointed by the lack of power adjustments for the front passenger and the lack of heated rear seats, nothing is held together anywhere, there are no cracks, the seats of the second and third rows fold very easily, forming a flat floor, an outlet in the trunk, a cooled glove box, everything at hand, navigation works amazingly, on the third row of seats, I personally placed it for testing, my height is 178 cm, it’s a little cramped, but in principle it doesn’t bother me, my brother has a VAZ 2114, so it’s even tighter to sit on the second row, his legs are completely nowhere to go; I really liked the function of opening the window on the fifth door, although at first I was skeptical about it, but now I use it all the time, I open the entire fifth door very rarely, the disadvantages of the interior: the appearance is a bit boring, the plastic is cheap, they say it scratches a lot (though I don’t have a single scratch ), but the ergonomics are excellent, everything is in its place, all joints are smooth, the climate works at 5+ both in winter and in summer; 2) exterior: as they say, “it depends on the taste and color...”, but personally I like it, and the girls like it, and this makes me like it even more :))), but on its original wheels the Kaptilka certainly looks simpler, very I liked the gills in the wings, in good frost they even give off steam, Kaptilka seems angrier; 3) driving performance, finally the most important thing: the sound of the engine after three thousand revolutions sounds good, but up to this point you can’t hear it at all (also pleasing), the suspension is stiff, you can feel all the small irregularities, not only are they felt, they are also the steering wheel is transmitted, although after the date FX 35, the mouthguard seemed even soft to me (“35 date on 20-wheel drives rides harder than a go-kart”), the running mouth guard is energy-intensive, I got into “holes” a couple of times, I thought something would fall off, so nothing, it was not possible to break through the suspension. But the other side of rigidity is handling, it is excellent, I wrote above that the mouth guard loves turns, this is so, the harder you press on the gas, the better it flies into these turns, both on dry and wet asphalt (like on a winding road I was driving in the mountains with a friend in two cars, it was raining, I was on a hood, my friend was driving a BMW E39 523i, when he tried to stay behind me in a turn at 120 km/h, he said something like “fuck... ..r necessary and let me go ahead" (in no case do I want to say that my mouthguard steers better than a BMW, I’m just citing an example from my life, so that the picture is more complete), now my favorite places to drive are serpentines and asphalt mountain roads, this car has practically no rolls or rolls. The acceleration dynamics are quite decent, the cars can easily reach 100 km/h in the stated 8.8 seconds (which is why some people have problems with acceleration), I accelerated the Capa to full speed, all 220. km/h, but taking into account the speedometer error, most likely this will be the rated 200 km/h, and the mouth guard accelerates to its maximum quite confidently... At first I was very skeptical about the off-road qualities of the mouth guard, after all, it is an SUV and one of the off-road “bells and whistles” it only has a descent assist system (by the way, it’s a cool feature, I really like it), but even here I was pleasantly surprised, until this car sits on its belly (and because of the thresholds I did it once) it’s rushing and rushing , I wrote that the previous owner gave me winter tires, but I still haven’t installed them, and it’s already the end of January, I drive summer tires, I’ve never gotten stuck anywhere, there are no problems at all when starting off, there are problems when braking on ice, ABS is a blast and the car goes and drives, fortunately it has tiptronic, so in icy conditions I brake at speeds, but I still don’t put studs on, so I drive on summer tires, there’s no need... But still serious off-road, I would I didn’t recommend pushing it on the Captiva, after all, it’s an SUV, I personally try not to get into serious trouble with my Chevy, and the tire profile (245/40) absolutely discourages any desire to test the off-road potential. Gasoline consumption is not low: city 13.5 - 14 l, highway 11 l. But on the other hand, it’s not so capricious when it comes to gasoline, I repeat, our gasoline is frank... but (how else do you have the conscience to take money for it), I pour 95, there have never been any problems (pah-pah-pah). I was pleased with the adjustable suspension, seven people in the car, also small luggage, and the car didn’t even sit down. Oil consumption: none, I don’t add oil from shift to shift.

4) Reliability, for those who read this review to the end :), I can’t say much about reliability, now I have driven 25,000 km, during these kilometers I only changed consumables, and one rear license plate light bulb and that’s it! No breakdowns or unscheduled replacement of spare parts (once again pah-pah-pah). True, I only get service from officials.

In general, I am very pleased with the car! Great car to drive every day! I won’t shout that the Chevrolet Captiva is better than higher-class cars, this is not true, because such cars are more expensive and that’s not just the case! But the Captiva is certainly worth its money, and among its classmates it is a worthy car, and in my opinion it is the best among its classmates, taking into account the price/quality ratio, I don’t want to offend anyone - my personal opinion. For those who are thinking about buying this car, I advise you to think about whether you need just such a car, but if it suits you, take my advice!

I repeat once again that I am writing a review for the first time, I sincerely hope that my review will help someone when choosing a car.

Good luck everyone!

Review from the owner of Chevrolet Captiva 3.2i V6 (230Hp) AWD 2008

Review from the owner of Chevrolet Captiva 3.2i V6 (230Hp) AWD 2008

• Reviews
• Cars
• Chevrolet
• Captiva

So, Captiva! I bought it in May 2010, the car was a test drive, engine. 3.2, 230 hp, 5 seats, 2008 model. Actually, I wanted a 7-seater, but I had to wait 5 months for it, but here it was cheap, with a mileage of 11 thousand and a warranty remaining for another 3 months. I decided to take a risk... I suspect that some of the further problems were precisely a consequence of my riskiness! ? The check light came on after 800 km - timing chain. Changed it. After another 1000 km, check again! This time catalysts! At this point I was already indignant! Obviously before the sale they replaced them with crap in the hope that they would expire before the end of the warranty! This is confirmed by the fact that for a whole month they did whatever they wanted with it, changed the sensors, cleaned some crap there, but didn’t change the catalyzers! In the end, after the 3rd or 4th visit to the service center, I asked the guys not to mess with my brain... They replaced... Both... I calmed down for about 3 months... In November, again a check - again a chain! In response to my completely impartial comment, the service center shrugged, saying that, damn, they were crazy, this has never happened, but since the warranty has expired, the chain costs 33,000 rubles (there are 3 of them), 7,000 for replacement. So, I say, they changed it 5 months ago! It’s not too cool to lay out 40 pieces every 20 thousand km! Nevermind - everything replaced during the warranty ends with the warranty! In general, I decided to drive like this for now, especially since the check light was on and off, and it didn’t have too much of an effect on the dynamics of the car! And after the consecration of the car in the church, it completely went out for 3 weeks! ? But then another kicker crept up! While overtaking a truck, the check light comes on uphill, and the revs drop! I was sweating... at least it was not oncoming traffic, but just the left lane. I let the truck pass, pulled over to the side of the road, caught my breath and slowly went to the service! The specialists were poking around, repeating the summer epic for a month. In the end, it dawned on them - there is still a 3rd catalyst! It was not replaced in the summer, since there are no sensors for it and it is not clear why it is there! They suggested that I finally cut it off - they cut it off. The sound of the car when accelerating acquired trolleybus notes, but to hell with it! Well, the failure of the ABS sensor is actually a minor thing, not counting the fact that again I had to go to the service center 4 times for the “specialists” to be convinced that it was the problem. By the spring of 2011, the check (due to an unreplaced chain) began to light up annoyingly often. The master inspector secretly said that you can take the same chains, but in the Caddilac showroom they cost 11 thousand! But still the toad was choking to give 18 grand for their careless work! In general, I contacted the GM head office and wrote out a letter addressed to the dealer. Two days later they said “OK!” They have chains, I have to pay for the work! Replaced! Well, in general, despite the lengthy review, I must say that there were two problems in the car - circuits and catalysts (the ABS sensor in our winters and reagents, we can say that it is a consumable item, it is strange that only one died)! Overall the car is not bad! Over the course of a year and a half of ownership, I changed my place of residence twice and made renovations once! If it weren't for Capa, I would have staggered! And so he moved the apartment in two steps! When I sold it, I put all the things from the underground in Capa’s trunk into his wife’s Solaris; the Solaris trunk turned out to be full! I had enough power both on the straights and in the mountains! Consumption in the city is 16-17 liters, on the highway 8-10, but I’m not a racer, when my wife got behind the wheel a couple of liters were added. Excellent climate - in the summer heat, I could do the job in the cabin in about 5 minutes, and the car was either driving or standing on the drum! Having driven 42 thousand kilometers, I sold the car, and for the last six months there were no problems with it at all, I sold it because my family moved from out of town to the center, two cars became a lot! There were 2 advertisements for both Solaris and Kapu - what would sell. For some reason they took the Capa faster... Now I’m waiting for the updated Captiva with a diesel engine, I’d like to see, maybe I’ll take it, but still a 7-seater, once a year I have to transport a crowd of relatives and friends... And I’m also looking at the Taha...

Probably, many motorists have encountered the fact that the “Check Engine” icon lit up on a Chevrolet Captiva, but no visible or obvious engine malfunctions were identified. What is causing this problem? In this article we will consider all possible options, as well as methods for eliminating and solving the problem.

Video material

The video will tell you how to troubleshoot the engine icon on the Captiva dashboard

Possible reasons for the engine icon to appear on the dashboard

Many car enthusiasts and Chevrolet Captiva owners have heard that “Check Engine” may appear on the dashboard for no reason. There can be quite a lot of reasons. At the same time, the strangest thing remains the fact that the motor shows no signs of malfunction: there is no twitching, loss of power and other problems.

So, where might the fault still be located, and how can it be diagnosed? In any case, the first thing you need to look at is the electronic control unit; this is where you should look for a fault. Since the “Check” icon indicates a malfunction in the motor, the control unit knows exactly where to look for it. If you connect to the ECU, you can see the error that served as an alarm signal, and then deal with the problem.

But, since it is not always possible to connect to the engine control unit, let’s consider where the malfunction may be hidden:

• Error in the ECU or software problems.
• Ignition system: spark plugs, wires, injector, ignition coil.
• Fuel system: bad gasoline, injectors, fuel pump.
• Lambda probe and catalyst.
• Mass air flow sensor.

Troubleshooting Methods

So, the main reasons for the appearance of the “Check Engine” icon on the dashboard have been identified, and it is necessary to move on to methods for eliminating problems. Of course, not all motorists know the design features of the Chevrolet Captiva, so many faults and solutions will become an impossible task. In this case, in order not to take risks, you should contact a car service. Well, for those who are already experienced, this material will be very useful. So, let's move directly to solving the problem.

ECU and related faults

It often happens that the appearance of the “CHECK” icon is associated with a malfunction in the “brains” of the car. There are many reasons for this effect, but the main one is a malfunction in the software and the accumulation of errors.

The remedy is “zeroing” or resetting the settings to factory settings. Of course, if this does not help, you need to change the software to a new one. For Captiva-class ECUs, there are Custom firmwares that fix many software “bugs”. To perform the action, you will need a special K-line cable, a tablet, software and a little knowledge of automotive electrics.

Time to change the oil

Another reason for the appearance of “Check Engine” on the dashboard is a signal that it is time to change the oil or there is not enough oil in the system. So, the motorist must check the condition of the lubricating fluid, as well as carry out routine engine maintenance.

Spark plugs and high voltage wires

Also, the reason for the appearance of the “Check Engine” icon may be a malfunction in the ignition system, namely a breakdown in one of the spark plugs or explosive wires. In this case, the engine can operate normally and show no visible malfunctions. So, to find a fault, you need to ring the wires and check the functionality of the spark plugs. If necessary, replace damaged elements.

Injector and ignition coil

An injector or ignition coil that is malfunctioning can also cause a “Check Engine” to appear. In this case, it is necessary to diagnose the elements, as well as repair or replace damaged elements.

Bad gasoline

The most common reason for the “CHECK” icon to appear on the dashboard is bad or stagnant gasoline. At the same time, diagnosing it is quite difficult and practically impossible. Therefore, as practice shows, motorists completely drain the fuel from the tank, and also “bleed” the residue from the system. After filling in new fuel, let the car run and then turn it off. After some time, start it and see if the warning light appears on the panel. If it disappears, then the cause of the malfunction has been eliminated; if not, then it is hidden in another place.

Fuel pump

Often, a faulty fuel pump causes the “Check Engine” to appear on the dashboard. Thus, insufficient pressure in the fuel line can serve as a signal of a malfunction. In fact, this problem should be shown in errors of the electronic engine control unit, but as practice shows, not always. Therefore, it is worth diagnosing the fuel pump and possibly replacing the repair kit, since the filter mesh on it may be clogged.

Injectors

Clogged injectors can also send a signal to the ECU, which in turn will turn on the “Check Engine”. In this case, the malfunction can be eliminated by cleaning the elements. This should be done on a special stand, but if one is not available, the operation can be done at home.

Lambda probe and catalyst

A faulty oxygen sensor or catalytic converter can also cause the problem. In this case, it is worth carrying out diagnostic work and, if necessary, replacing damaged elements. So, an indirect additional sign may be a slight increase in fuel consumption.

DMVR

A faulty mass air flow sensor causes the “Check Engine” to appear on the dashboard. This element is diagnosed quite simply using a tester, and the cause is eliminated by replacement. In this case, it is necessary to reset all errors after replacing the ECU.

Additional diagnostics

If gas equipment is installed on the car, then additional diagnostics will be required, since in any case, it is connected to the electronic control unit. In this case, the cause of the malfunction may be a pressure drop in the fuel line or a gearbox malfunction.

Conclusion

It is quite simple to determine the reasons for the appearance of the “Check Engine” icon on the dashboard of a Chevrolet Captiva, because the main problems are: the computer, the fuel system and bad gasoline. If the motorist is unable to identify and fix the problem on his own, it is recommended to contact a car service center. Of course, you will need to spend a certain amount of money, but auto repairmen will do everything quickly and efficiently. It is worth warning that any diagnosis of this malfunction begins with checking the ECU, and if the car enthusiast does not understand this process, it is worth contacting professionals so as not to disrupt anything in the operation of the car.