Car chassis assembly of a two-wheeled robot. Universal crawler chassis for a robot. Tracked chassis for tanks on Arduino

A platform that meets a number of requirements: free movement, the ability to install additional equipment and expand capabilities, as well as reasonable cost. This is the kind of robot platform or, simply, tracked chassis that I will make. Naturally, I am posting the instructions for your consideration.

We will need:

Tamiya 70168 dual gearbox (can be replaced with 70097)
- Tamiya 70100 roller and track set
- Tamiya 70157 platform for mounting the gearbox (can be replaced with a piece of 4 mm plywood)
- Small pieces of galvanized sheet
- Plywood 10 mm (small piece)
- Arduino Nano
- DRV 8833
- LM 317 (voltage stabilizer)
- 2 LEDs (red and green)
- Resistors 240 Ohm, 2x 150 Ohm, 1.1 kOhm
- Capacitor 10v 1000uF
- 2 single-row combs PLS-40
- 2 PBS-20 connectors
- Inductor 68uH
- 6 NI-Mn batteries 1.2v 1000mA
- Male-female two-pin connector per wire
- Wires of different colors
- Solder
- Rosin
- Soldering iron
- Bolts 3x40, 3x20, nuts and washers for them
- Bolts 5x20, nuts and reinforced nuts for them
- Drill
- Metal drills 3 mm and 6 mm

Step 1: Cut the metal.
First, we need to cut out four parts from sheet metal (preferably galvanized). Two parts per track. Using this pattern, we cut out two parts:

The dots indicate the places where holes need to be drilled, and the diameter of the hole is indicated next to it. Holes of 3 mm are needed for hanging with a roller, 6 mm for threading wires through them. After cutting and drilling, you need to go through all the edges with a file, leaving no sharp corners. Bend 90 degrees along the dotted lines. Be careful! We bend the first part in any direction, and bend the second in the opposite direction. They should be symmetrically bent. There is one more nuance: it is necessary to drill holes for the screws that secure our plates to the base. This should be done when the base is ready. We place the workpiece on the base and mark the drilling locations so that the screws fall into the center of the chipboard. We make two more details according to the second development:

Step 2 prepare the base.
We assemble the gearbox according to the included instructions. We screw it onto the platform. If there is no platform, cut out a 4 mm rectangle of 53x80 mm from plywood and attach the gearbox to it. We take 10 mm plywood. Cut out two rectangles 90x53 mm and 40x53 mm. Inside the small rectangle we cut out another rectangle, so that we get a frame with a wall thickness of 8 mm.

We twist everything as shown in the photo:

We drilled 6 mm holes in the corners of the platform and inserted our 5x20 bolts into them and screwed on reinforced nuts on top. They are needed for subsequent fastening of various mechanisms or boards. For convenience, we immediately glue the LEDs:

Step 3 electrician.
For control we will use Arduino Nano. DVR 883 motor driver. We assemble everything on the circuit board according to the diagram.

L1 – inductor and C1 are needed to stabilize the Arduino voltage. Resistors R1 and R2 in front of the motors are current-limiting, their value must be selected for specific motors. They work fine for me at 3 ohms. LM317 is needed to charge batteries. The input can be supplied with voltage from 9.5 V to 25 V. R3 – 1.1 kOhm R4 – 240 Ohm. The “pins” on the left are used for subsequent connection of various types of devices (Bluetooth, 433 MHz communication module, IR, Servo, etc.). For power supply we will use 6 Ni-Mn 1.2v 1000mA batteries soldered in series and wound with electrical tape.

Step 4: Assemble the base.
We take our base and glue the board onto it using double-sided tape. The metal parts according to the first development need to be screwed with small self-tapping screws to the base on the sides, with the bent parts outward. Be careful to screw it so that the outermost 6 mm hole fits onto the output axis of the gearbox, the bottom of the part must be parallel to the base and symmetrical in relation to the second similar part. The result should be:

To give our homemade product an aesthetic appearance, let’s add a couple of details. It's not obligatory. We cut out a 110x55 mm rectangle from white plastic and bend it as shown in the photo. The tail is also optional, but I liked the way it looks and shakes cool when moving:

This cover covers the gearbox so that dirt does not get into it, and it makes less noise. Next, we also cut out a rectangle 52x41 mm from white plastic. We make holes for connecting the Arduino and the shutdown button as in the photo:

We glue it all on double-sided tape:

Beauty sticker.

These two parts can be made from almost any material you have on hand. This can be thick cardboard (which can then be painted), fiberboard, thin plywood or a sheet of plastic of any color. Don't forget about batteries. Glue them with double-sided tape on the right metal part of the base:

Step 5 of the caterpillar.
Here we will need our blanks for the second scan. We insert bolts with a 3x20 semi-cylindrical head into the 3 mm holes. We put on the washers and tighten the nuts.

We got acquainted with the 105-Bender ZiChip device, learned how to work with the Tuner program and created several simple scripts. In order to move on and show how the 105-Bender firmware works with motors, we will need a cart.

To debug the device, I used my own, but for you, blog readers, this is not a very suitable option. Therefore, it was decided to use a ready-made cart for Arduino projects to demonstrate the device.

The store provided me with the cart and modules for this project. DiyLab . In this store you can buy many other interesting things.

The cart set is as follows

As you understand, the appearance of the cart does not matter. You can use a completely different design. This could be a 4-wheel drive cart or even a crawler cart.

In addition to the cart itself, we also need:

- Arduino board (Uno or Nano)
— L298N motor driver (or other type)
— photodetector and IR remote control (you can use a household remote control and TSOP4836)
- piezo emitter or small speaker
- Light-emitting diode
— breadboard and connecting wires (for ease of installation)

Assembling the cart and connecting the modules to each other should not cause any difficulties. The modules must be connected according to the diagram

Use a breadboard to connect or connect everything with wires at once - as I did. The layout of the modules depends only on you - do what is most convenient for you.

3-watt LEDs with original collimators are used as headlights. When using two such LEDs connected in series, there is no need for a driver for them - when powered by 6 volts, the current does not exceed the nominal value. Single-watt LEDs can also be used. A field-effect transistor is used as a key for high-power LEDs. The speaker must be connected via a 10 - 100 µF capacitor

The trolley is assembled. In the next article we will launch it and teach you how to obey commands from the remote control.

(Visited 4,275 times, 1 visits today)

Good day, brain engineers! Here is a guide on how to how to do a simple, small, mobile, stable and all-terrain robot, without unnecessary devices and with all driving wheels.

I've been experimenting with this design for quite some time. brain games and achieved good results, which I post in this article. For example, the robot's chassis is assembled from Actobotics aluminum parts, which makes it easy to assemble and ensures stability, light weight and reliability.

Each of the six wheels has its own engine, which increases traction, while the engines of each side, left and right, are combined into groups of three, that is, the robot maneuvers like a tank. Large wheels increase maneuverability and shock absorption, and also prevent damage from falls.

Controlled craft an Arduino microcontroller, which is responsible for all electrical components and also has the potential for further improvements. The basis of the remote control is the XBee module, which is easy to use, reliable and gives a signal range greater than required.

Step 1: Aluminum Frame

To assemble the frame we will need:

3 aluminum corners "Actobotics" 40cm each.
6 aluminum motor brackets
6 12V motors with 6mm shaft diameter
6 wheels 127 x 62mm
6 tires 5.6cm
6 hex wheel hubs
36 M3x8 screws
aluminum sheet 343x190mm
8 hex spacers M3x40mm

Step 2: Preparing the Frame

We cut one of the aluminum corners in half with a metal file. On the other two, solid corners we mark the places for the brackets brain engines, drill 3mm holes for the fastening bolts (blue color in the photo) and screw the brackets themselves to the corners.

Step 3: Frame Assembly

We mount the engines on the brackets, placing them as low as possible. Then we fasten the long corners to each other with two short ones (which were cut earlier), in the places shown in red.

After that, we mount 8 spacers on the aluminum sheet, and with the help of them we attach it to the frame from the corners.

Step 4: Electronics

This step requires you brainiac work in the field of electronics, in particular assembling circuits with Arduino and XBee.

For assembling an electrical circuit crafts necessary:

Lithium battery 3S 4000 mAh
digital electronic switch - needed for a possible subsequent upgrade, and it can be replaced with a simple switch rated for a current of no more than 10 amperes.
Arduino Mega 2560 module
XBee Explorer board
XBee Pro 60 mW transmitter with antenna
Sabertooth 12A control board for two motors
ULN 2803 and IC connector

On the aluminum plate we mark three lines corresponding to the three axes of the motors (marked in red in the photo), then we attach a lithium battery between the first two axes, and then install an electric switch if you decide to use it.

Let's start with the Arduino: solder a red wire to Vin, a black wire to two GNDs and a white wire to TX1 (18th pin) on the back of the board, using the photo as a guide. When mounting the board, try to place it between the wheels so that the USB port is easily accessible for programming. We attach the board itself to the plate with six bolts with two washers on each to lift the board above the plate. Also use plastic washers and nuts to avoid short circuits.

We mount the Sabertooth control board directly onto the aluminum plate and secure it with four bolts and nuts. The plate also plays the role of a radiator here. Next, focusing on the diagram, we connect the components homemade products together.

We mount the XBee module itself on the board for XBee and make 4 connections: 5V to 5V, GND to ground, DIN to TX3 (pin 14) and Dout to RX3 (pin 15).

And finally, on a small circuit board we assemble the circuit responsible for the operation of the LED headlights on the front of the craft; during assembly we also look at the diagram.

Step 5: Xbee Programming

Before you start programming the XBee module, it is advisable to read the manual.

In addition to knowledge, we will need:

USB XBee explorer board
USB cable

After installing and updating the X_CTU program, we configure each XBee module as a receiver and transmitter at the same time. Set three brain parameter:
For the receiver: DL=321, MY=123 and BD = 3 (9600 baud).
For transmitter: DL=123, MY=321 and BD = 3 (9600 baud).

Step 6: Assembling the Control Panel

Necessary materials:

Lithium battery 3S 800 mAh
Arduino Nano 5V, 16 MHz or similar
XBee Explorer board
XBee Pro 60 mW module with antenna
joystick
LED
resistor 220 Ohm
two miniature switches
plastic case

After assembling the basic circuit, making the remote is a simple step. In this case, as usual, we focus on the diagram. Code for Arduino

Step 7: Finally

Collected brain trick has the following characteristics: length - 42 cm, width - 32 cm, height - 12.5 cm, weight - 3.430 kg.

The speed depends on the selected engines, mine brain robot with a gear ratio of 100:1, it reaches 0.7 m/s (2.4 km/h). If you reduce the gear ratio, the speed will increase as the thrust decreases. On the contrary, if you increase the gear ratio: the speed will decrease, but the traction will increase.

The video shows off-road performance homemade products.

Important points:
When installing LEDs, observe polarity;
if the wheel rotates in the opposite direction, then simply reverse the polarity of the motor;
if the entire group of wheels rotates in the opposite direction, then change the polarity on the Sabertooth board;
if all the wheels rotate in the opposite direction, then reverse the polarity of the power wires of the Sabertooth board.

The Sabertooth board has a built-in battery voltage sensor, so if homemade stops functioning, simply charge the battery.

Upgrade plans: for starters, on your own brain trick I want to add a miniature video camera and audio-video transmitter, which are used in aircraft modeling. There are also plans to install a robotic manipulator arm on the craft.

But this is in the plans, but for now thank you for your attention and good luck in your work!

Today I am starting to publish articles dedicated to creating my own mobile robot. At the family council, it was decided to give him the name Robotosh, which is actually why I named my blog that way. The purpose of its creation is to study various algorithms and elements of robotic systems in practice.

At the moment, my robot is a four-wheeled platform with a microcontroller board installed on it and hung with a number of sensors and interfaces for user interaction. The software is in its very infancy, so I will analyze in detail what and why it is implemented this way at the moment and gradually move on, adding functionality and endowing it with “intelligence”. This is my first robot, so perhaps some stages of its creation will be erroneous or dead ends.

Idea

The idea, as a first approximation, looks like this: an autonomous robot with the following features:

4 wheel platform
Indoor use (apartment)
Non-contact methods for identifying obstacles to avoid collisions
Control modes:

offline “random walk” mode to build a room map
remote control mode
voice command execution mode with voice recognition

Battery charge monitoring and self-charging
Displaying information on a character LCD display
Sound alarm

Robot chassis

As a chassis, I decided to use a purchased four-wheeled platform for purely economic reasons (no matter how I thought, it was more expensive in parts, but this is one of the cheapest that I could find). My choice fell on the DAGU 4WD chasis kit chassis, which is a 4-wheeled platform with motors. This is what the package looks like.

Platforms for installing various attachments are made of red acrylic glass with a large number of mounting holes for installing sensors, controllers, and servomotors. Acrylic glass, I must say, is drilled very easily, so even if something does not fall into the finished holes in the future, you can always easily make additional ones. The wheels are rubberized. Commutator motors with plastic gearboxes.

Boards

Dimensions: 175 x 109 x 3 mm

Distance between boards (height of included racks): 24mm

Ground clearance: 45 mm

Wheels

Wheel diameter: 67 mm

Rim width: 26 mm

Motors

Voltage: 4.5 - 7.2 V

Idle speed: 90 ± 10 rpm

No-load current: 190 mA (max. 250 mA)

Torque: 0.8 kg cm

Maximum current: 1A

It takes about twenty minutes to assemble. The assembled chassis looks like this:

To be honest, I had an ambush with the engines. These motors are not designed to accept encoders, which is important to me as I plan to use encoders to provide feedback for more precise positioning. Therefore, most likely, if it is not possible to remake these engines, I will change the engines to others in the future.

Overall, the assembled platform looks quite nice. If it weren't for the problem with the encoders, I would be 100% satisfied.

How do you rate this publication?

« « Chassis for a robot for 200 rubles

Every roboticist, when starting to create a robot, thinks about chassis. Here is an ingenious manufacturing idea for its simplicity and low cost. robot chassis from Chinese cars.

To create the chassis we need two the most disgusting Chinese toy tanks electric. They don't have to be able to turn at all - it's much cheaper that way.

Unsightliness has two advantages: low price and lack of pity when dismantling tanks.

As Ideas warns, such cheap creations of Chinese industry stink like hell, so you won’t feel sorry for them.

So, we have donor tanks. Go!

We remove the covers from the donor tanks.