Washing the Vvt-I Filter, Photo report.
Flushing the VVT-i filter, photo report.
VVT-i oil filter flush report
For some reason I don't understand, the unfortunate photo hosting moderators deleted the entire album.
To hell with them, download the entire file, in Word format: Report on flushing the oil filter VVT.doc
The VVT-I system (hereinafter referred to as VVTI) has long been installed on all Toyota engines. Its essence is to shift the valve timing in such a way that the engine produces maximum power throughout the entire rev range. With the correct operation of the VVTI at the bottom and at the top, the engine produces more power than the same engine with the disabled / faulty VVTI.
This VVTI is very important. up to the point that when it malfunctions, the brakes disappear on some machines. and some spontaneously gas and strive to crash into the wall.
For the Prius, with its Atkinson cycle, VVTI is of course paramount. Also, VVTI works with constant starts / stops of the engine, its inadequate operation leads to the fact that the car stops stalling or twitches when stopping / starting.
The VVTI system consists of the VVTI valve, through which the board. controls the movement of oil in the VVTI system and the sprocket on the intake camshaft, which directly changes the duration of the intake phase depending on the pressure and direction of oil movement in the VVTI system. There is a mesh filter in front of the VVTI valve so that any valve does not stick. Between these elements - of course - thin oil channels. For details about VVTI, see the Avtodata website, it is well written, with graphs, diagrams and drawings)).
When using bad oil or an untimely change, dirt from the oil is deposited on the filter mesh, clogs it completely, the oil stops flowing into the VVTI mechanism, it freezes in the middle position, like the car does not have VVTI, and the Prius twitches at start / stop, consumption increases, decreases dynamics. Also, deposits can be in the valve, jamming it in one position. They can be in the cavities of the VVTI star mechanism, limiting their movement and. thereby disrupting the valve timing. All this leads to the same shaking.
Please note, I'm not claiming that this is the only reason for the 1NZ-FXE's St. Witt's dance, but one of many, which, apparently, should be devoted to a separate FAQ-style article.
Now - what to do with it. Everything is as usual, dirty - clean, broken - replace.
Cleaning the oil strainer.
This is what the correct filter looks like, we will strive for this result:
Devices and materials.
For parsing, we need keys / head for 10, a hexagon for 6 (purchased at Avtomag for 19 rubles). I also have a kind of bit-holder, like a screwdriver, it also helped.
To clean the varnish deposits on the grid, I used this household chemicals - the Shumanit grease remover (Israel), it costs about 250 rubles a bottle, by the way, it’s a terribly effective thing, it removes carbon deposits from the stoves at once, your wife will thank you for it.
Instead of Shumanit, you can use such a Russian remedy, it also works well, but costs 5 times less.
Those who wish can, of course, wash with kerosene or carb cleaner, but KMK, their efficiency is much lower.
In the 1nz engine, the filter is located on the left, below the cylinder head cover, immediately below the VVT-i valve.
To access the filter, we remove the air filter housing, disconnect all kinds of wires, tubes there (wires to the VVTI valve, to the gasoline vapor disposal valve and the fuel tube), so as not to interfere with unscrewing, remove them to the side.
Unscrew the filter with a hexagon. Tightened very tightly, it is worth spraying with Vedashkoy. Having unscrewed, do not lose the washer-gasket, it is tricky there. It’s not a fact that it’s right to reuse it, but I don’t have another one, but the old one works fine.
We get the filter. It is made in the form of a mesh in a plastic case, inserted into a metal bolt, removed together. Sometimes (as they say) the mesh remains in the hole, then remove it from there with tweezers. This is how I had this filter (view from both sides).
As you can see, the filter is very heavily polluted, even water practically did not pass through it, which means that the VVTI mechanism practically did not work. By the way, an indirect way to determine the operability of the VVTI is to remove the connector from the VVTI valve with the engine running at idle, if the speed has not changed, then the VVTI does not work. If they have changed, it means that it can work .
In general, we put the filter in a vessel and fill it with shumanit, leave it for 20 minutes.
After, wash off the eaten away dirt with water. look at the result.
As you can see, the result is already there, about 50% was washed off. We repeat the procedure with shumanit for another 20-30 minutes. We wash. The result is a 100% clean filter.
It can be seen through the light that the mesh has been completely cleaned, inside and out.
Now you can dry and install in place. Tighten as much as it was, check if the engine is running for oil flowing, you can check it in a day. Everything was fine for me the first time. A week later, I did a control check, out of curiosity, if anything had accumulated. The result is an ideal condition (see first photo).
The valve also belongs to the VVTI, I could not remove it, it firmly stuck there. Because the new one costs 1500 rubles, and the old one seems to work, it was decided not to touch it yet. There is infa on the Internet, how one motorist had to break off an electromagnet from a valve, and pick out the valve itself with a special device welded from a screw in order to replace it with a new one. They also write that fuel oil and resins can accumulate in the housing of the VVTI sprocket, limiting the range of adjustment of the valve timing. I'll climb there some other time when I buy a cylinder head gasket.
While I’m thinking of washing all the oil channels with Shell Helix Ultra Extra oil, they write that it actually cleans well. And with the help of slow flushes before changing the oil, on which you can drive 100-200 km (I saw one at Liqui Molly, Lavr).
Earned VVTI. At the bottom, I didn’t notice a change in traction, at the top - a noticeable increase in power by 10-15% (according to sensations). After 80 km / h the dynamics became better. The car began to drive at a speed of 90-100 km / h with a flow rate of slightly less than 5 l / 100 km. It used to be over 5 l/100km. It began to stall (otherwise it completely stopped earlier.) Well, and an unexpected side effect - the shaking stopped at the start-stop on a hot one, it stalls and starts up very smoothly. In fairness, it should be noted that it shakes very occasionally, but. I think this is due to candles, coils, dirty injectors. Everything has its time.
I hope this creation will be useful to someone.
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The Vvt-i valve is a variable valve timing system for an automotive internal combustion engine manufactured by Toyota.
This article contains answers to such fairly common questions:
- What is a Vvt-i valve?
- vvti device;
- What is the principle of operation of vvti?
- How to properly clean vvti?
- How to repair a valve?
- How is the replacement done?
Vvt-i device
The main mechanism is located in the camshaft pulley. The housing is connected together with a toothed pulley, and the rotor with a camshaft. Lubricating oil is delivered to the valve mechanism from either side of each petal rotor. Thus the valve and camshaft starts to rotate. At that moment, when the car engine is in a muffled state, the maximum angle of detention is set. This means that an angle is determined that corresponds to the most recent product of the opening and closing of the intake valves. Due to the fact that the rotor is connected to the housing by a locking pin immediately after start-up, when the pressure of the oil line is insufficient to effectively control the valve, no shocks can occur in the valve mechanism. After that, the locking pin opens with the help of the pressure that the oil exerts on it.
What is the principle of operation of Vvt-i? Vvt-i provides the ability to smoothly change the gas distribution phases, corresponding to all conditions for the functioning of an automobile engine. This function is ensured by rotating the inlet camshaft relative to the outlet valve shafts, along the angle of rotation of the crankshaft from forty to sixty degrees. As a result, there is a change in the moment of initial opening of the intake valve, as well as the amount of time when the exhaust valves are in the closed position, and the exhaust valves are open. The control of the presented type of valve is due to the signal that comes from the control unit. After a signal is received, an electronic magnet moves the main spool along the plunger, while passing oil in any direction.
At the moment when the car engine is not working, the spool moves with the help of a spring so that the maximum delay angle is located.
To produce a camshaft, oil under a certain pressure is moved to one side of the rotor with the help of a spool. At the same moment, a cavity opens on the other side of the petals to drain the oil. After the control unit determines the location of the camshaft, all the channels of the pulley are closed, thus, it is held in a fixed position. The operation of the mechanism of this valve is carried out by several conditions for the functioning of an automobile engine with different modes.
In total, there are seven modes of operation of an automobile engine, and here is a list of them:
- Idling movement;
- Movement at low load;
- Movement with an average load;
- Driving with high load and low speed;
- Traveling with a high load and a high level of rotational speed;
- Traveling with low coolant temperature;
- During engine start and stop.
Self cleansing procedure a Vvt-i
Dysfunction is usually accompanied by many signs, so it is most logical to look at these signs first.
So, the main signs of a violation of normal functioning are as follows:
- The car abruptly stalls;
- The vehicle cannot maintain momentum;
- The brake pedal noticeably stiffens;
- Does not pull the brake pedal.
Now we can proceed to consider the process of purification of Vvti. We will carry out the purification of Vvti step by step.
So, the algorithm for cleaning Vvti:
- Remove the plastic cover of the car engine;
- We unscrew the bolts and nuts;
- We remove the iron cover, the main task of which is to fix the generator of the machine;
- We remove the connector from the Vvti;
- We unscrew the bolt by ten. Don't be afraid, you won't be able to make a mistake, as there is only one of them.
- We remove Vvti. Just in no case do not pull on the connector, because it fits snugly enough to it and a sealing ring is placed on it.
- We clean Vvti with any cleaner that is designed to clean the carburetor;
- For complete purification of Vvti, remove the filter of the Vvti system. The presented filter is located under the valve and has the form of a plug with a hole for the hexagon, but this item is optional.
- Cleansing is complete, you just have to assemble everything in reverse order and tighten the belt without resting on Vvti.
Self Repair Vvt-i
Quite often, it becomes necessary to repair the valve, since simply cleaning it is not always effective.
So, first, let's look at the main signs of the need for repairs:
- The car engine does not hold idle;
- Brakes the engine;
- It is impossible to move the car at low speeds;
- No brake booster;
- Poor gear changes.
Let's look at the main causes of valve failure:
- The coil broke. In this case, the valve will not be able to respond correctly to the voltage transfer. This violation can be determined by measuring the resistance of the winding.
- Seizes the stock. The cause of stem sticking can be the accumulation of dirt in the stem bore or deformation of the rubber that is located inside the stem. Dirt can be removed from the channels by soaking or soaking.
Valve repair algorithm:
- We remove the regulating bar of the car generator;
- We remove the fasteners of the lock of the hood of the car, thanks to this you can get access to the axial bolt of the generator;
- We remove the valve. Just in no case do not pull on the connector, because it fits snugly enough to it and a sealing ring is placed on it.
- We remove the filter of the Vvti system. The presented filter is located under the valve and has the form of a plug with a hole for the hexagon.
- If the valve and filter are very dirty, then we clean them with a special liquid for cleaning the carburetor;
- We check the operability of the valve, using a short supply of twelve volts to the contacts. If you are satisfied with how it functions, then you can stop at this stage, if not, then follow these steps.
- We put marks on the valve in order to prevent mistakes during re-installation;
- Using a small screwdriver, disassemble the valve from two sides;
- We take out the stock;
- We wash and clean the valve;
- If the valve ring is deformed, then replace it with a new one;
- Roll up the inside of the valve. This can be done with the help of a cloth, by pressing on the rod, to press the new sealing ring;
- Change the oil that is in the coil;
- We replace the ring, which is located on the outside;
- Roll the outer side of the valve to press the outer ring;
- The valve repair is completed and you just have to assemble everything in the reverse order.
Vvt-i valve self-replacement procedure
Often, cleaning and repairing the valve does not give much results, and then it becomes necessary to completely replace it. In addition, many motorists claim that after replacing the valve, the vehicle will work much better and fuel costs will drop to about ten liters.
Therefore, the question arises: How should the valve be replaced correctly? We will replace the valve step by step.
So, the valve replacement algorithm:
- Remove the car alternator control bar;
- Remove the fasteners of the lock of the hood of the car, thanks to this you will be able to gain access to the axial bolt of the generator;
- We unscrew the bolt that secures the valve;
- We take out the old valve;
- We install a new valve in place of the old one;
- We twist the bolt securing the valve;
- The valve replacement is complete and you just have to assemble everything in the reverse order.
Not really
VVT-i oil filter flush report
For some reason I don't understand, the unfortunate photo hosting moderators deleted the entire album.
To hell with them, download the entire file, in Word format: Report on flushing the oil filter VVT.docTheoretical digression.
The VVT-I system (hereinafter referred to as VVTI) has long been installed on all Toyota engines. Its essence is to shift the valve timing in such a way that the engine produces maximum power throughout the entire rev range. With the correct operation of the VVTI at the bottom and at the top, the engine produces more power than the same engine with the disabled / faulty VVTI.
This VVTI is very important, to the extent that when it malfunctions, the brakes disappear on some machines, and some spontaneously gas and strive to crash into the wall.
For the Prius, with its Atkinson cycle, VVTI is of course paramount. Also, VVTI works with constant starts / stops of the engine, its inadequate operation leads to the fact that the car stops stalling or twitches when stopping / starting.
The VVTI system consists of the VVTI valve, through which the board. controls the movement of oil in the VVTI system and the sprocket on the intake camshaft, which directly changes the duration of the intake phase depending on the pressure and direction of oil movement in the VVTI system. There is a mesh filter in front of the VVTI valve so that any valve does not stick. Between these elements - of course - thin oil channels. For details about VVTI, see the Avtodata website, it is well written, with graphs, diagrams and drawings)).
When using bad oil or an untimely change, dirt from the oil is deposited on the filter mesh, clogs it completely, the oil stops flowing into the VVTI mechanism, it freezes in the middle position, like the car does not have VVTI, and the Prius twitches at start / stop, consumption increases, decreases dynamics. Also, deposits can be in the valve, jamming it in one position. They can be in the cavities of the VVTI star mechanism, limiting their movement and. thereby disrupting the valve timing. All this leads to the same shaking.
Please note, I'm not claiming that this is the only reason for the 1NZ-FXE's St. Witt's dance, but one of many, which, apparently, should be devoted to a separate FAQ-style article.
Now - what to do with it. Everything is as usual, dirty - clean, broken - replace.Practical part.
Cleaning the oil strainer.
This is what the correct filter looks like, we will strive for this result:Devices and materials.
For parsing, we need keys / head for 10, a hexagon for 6 (purchased at Avtomag for 19 rubles). I also have a kind of bit-holder, like a screwdriver, it also helped.To clean the varnish deposits on the grid, I used this household chemicals - the Shumanit grease remover (Israel), it costs about 250 rubles a bottle, by the way, it’s a terribly effective thing, it removes carbon deposits from the stoves at once, your wife will thank you for it.
Instead of Shumanit, you can use such a Russian remedy, it also works well, but costs 5 times less.
Those who wish can, of course, wash with kerosene or carb cleaner, but KMK, their efficiency is much lower.
Working process:
In the 1nz engine, the filter is located on the left, below the cylinder head cover, immediately below the VVT-i valve.To access the filter, we remove the air filter housing, disconnect all kinds of wires, tubes there (wires to the VVTI valve, to the gasoline vapor disposal valve and the fuel tube), so as not to interfere with unscrewing, remove them to the side.
Unscrew the filter with a hexagon. Tightened very tightly, it is worth spraying with Vedashkoy. Having unscrewed, do not lose the washer-gasket, it is tricky there. It’s not a fact that it’s right to reuse it, but I don’t have another one, but the old one works fine.
We get the filter. It is made in the form of a mesh in a plastic case, inserted into a metal bolt, removed together. Sometimes (as they say) the mesh remains in the hole, then remove it from there with tweezers. This is how I had this filter (view from both sides).
As you can see, the filter is very heavily polluted, even water practically did not pass through it, which means that the VVTI mechanism practically did not work. By the way, an indirect way to determine the operability of the VVTI is to remove the connector from the VVTI valve with the engine running at idle, if the speed has not changed, then the VVTI does not work. If they have changed, it means that it can work .
In general, we put the filter in a vessel and fill it with shumanit, leave it for 20 minutes.After, we wash off the eaten dirt with water, we look at the result.
And to the light:
As you can see, the result is already there, about 50% was washed off. We repeat the procedure with shumanit for another 20-30 minutes. We wash. The result is a 100% clean filter.
It can be seen through the light that the mesh has been completely cleaned, inside and out.
Now you can dry and install in place. Tighten as much as it was, check if the engine is running for oil flowing, you can check it in a day. Everything was fine for me the first time. A week later, I did a control check, out of curiosity, if anything had accumulated. The result is an ideal condition (see first photo).
The valve also belongs to the VVTI, I could not remove it, it firmly stuck there. Because the new one costs 1500 rubles, and the old one seems to work, it was decided not to touch it yet. There is infa on the Internet, how one motorist had to break off an electromagnet from a valve, and pick out the valve itself with a special device welded from a screw in order to replace it with a new one. They also write that fuel oil and resins can accumulate in the housing of the VVTI sprocket, limiting the range of adjustment of the valve timing. I'll climb there some other time when I buy a cylinder head gasket.
While I’m thinking of washing all the oil channels with Shell Helix Ultra Extra oil, they write that it actually cleans well. And with the help of slow flushes before changing the oil, on which you can drive 100-200 km (I saw one at Liqui Molly, Lavr).
Results:
Earned VVTI. At the bottom, I didn’t notice a change in traction, at the top - a noticeable increase in power by 10-15% (according to sensations). After 80 km / h the dynamics became better. The car began to drive at a speed of 90-100 km / h with a flow rate of slightly less than 5 l / 100 km. It used to be over 5 l/100km. It began to stall (otherwise it completely stopped earlier.) Well, and an unexpected side effect - the shaking stopped at the start-stop on a hot one, it stalls and starts up very smoothly. In fairness, it should be noted that it shakes very occasionally, but I think this is due to candles, coils, dirty injectors. Everything has its time.I hope this creation will be useful to someone.
Sibirsky_Kot.