How to check a wheel rim for runout. Search and elimination of possible tire malfunctions. Camber and rubber quality

Every driver faced vibrations and impacts on the steering wheel while driving; in many cases, wheel runout, or rather its incorrect balancing, is to blame. The wheel must be perfectly shaped. Size and other factors can also influence. But, more often than not, the problem is solved by simple balancing. Let's take a look at what balancing is, what it is and how to do it correctly.

Wheel runout - what is it. Types of wheel runout

Wheel runout - displacement of the disc during movement, can be radial or axial. Either way, you will get vibration or shock. The higher the speed, the more visible the problem becomes.
Let's consider the varieties in more detail.
  • Axial runout is the horizontal displacement of the wheel. Usually this behavior of the disk is called "figure eight". Usually caused by an imbalance in the distribution of mass on the plane.
  • Radial runout is caused by static imbalance. At the same time, the disc begins to resemble an egg in shape. Oscillatory movements occur up and down. Usually accompanied by variable torque.

It is worth considering what may be the consequence of such a phenomenon. In the case of axial runout, the main consequences are as follows:
  • damage to the steering mechanism and chassis;
  • increased tread wear, which leads to rapid tire failure.
Radial runout leads to approximately the same consequences, only the main load falls on the suspension.
It is also worth separating dynamic and static imbalances. There are some peculiarities here, first of all in the way of fixing the problem.
With static imbalance, the torque is generated by the weight of the unbalanced mass. Simply put, the wheel will rotate without interference until the unbalanced mass is in its extreme position. Thus, the movement of the wheel disc resembles a pendulum.
In the case of dynamic imbalance, the wheel rim is unbalanced in width. You can only observe during rotation. In the event of such a problem, the axis of rotation is completely out of alignment with the main central axis of inertia. In fact, a certain angle is formed between the axes. At the same time, the presence of two centers of mass in different parts of the wheel causes a dynamic imbalance. During movement, centrifugal forces arise, they act in opposite directions and are manifested in the form of beating of the wheel.

How does wheel runout manifest



In practice, the driver most often notices the beating on impacts when driving. Moreover, the wheel begins to beat even on a flat road, and the higher the speed, the more intense the impacts. In many cases, the beat starts on the steering wheel, which can begin to vibrate. The car becomes less controllable.
The relationship between speed and beat amplification is due to a simple reason. The imbalance has a certain period, for example, two meters. The faster the car moves, the more often the cause of the beating repeats, respectively, the higher the speed, the more noticeable the problem. The amount of imbalance also affects.
In some cases, it can manifest itself during braking. Here we are talking more about the static imbalance of the wheel. This is often evidenced by the vibration of the wheels when working with the brake. The reason is often the destruction of the hub bearings or problems with the brake mechanism.
Separately, it is worth analyzing the reasons for the imbalance. Let's list the main ones.
  • Mechanical damage and deformation of suspension parts. In fact, a wheel is not only made up of a disc and a tire, there is a hub, a brake caliper and a disc. If they are deformed, it can also cause beating.
  • Deformation of the rim. During operation, the disc geometry may change.
  • Uneven tire wear. First of all, we are talking about tread wear within one wheel. But, in practice, there is also a problem with uneven tire wear on different wheels of the same axle. If one wheel has 1.5mm more wear on the pattern, this will also cause runout.
  • Improper wheel replacement. In fact, the reason is quite common. When installing a spare wheel, drivers often tighten the wheel after lowering the jack. This can cause the disc to be displaced by millimeters relative to the axis, respectively, beating appears.

How to check a wheel for runout


An important point is the diagnosis of this phenomenon. The tricky part is that tire runout is very difficult to diagnose. Noticeable impacts occur only at a high level of violation. Therefore, it is recommended to run a check periodically. Be sure to check both the rear and front wheels. It is especially important to carry out this diagnosis if you change tires, or if there is any vibration on the steering wheel.
If there is a suspicion of wheel runout. The presence of geometric imbalance is checked first. For this, a car wheel is hung out, and when scrolling with a special device, the level of beating is measured. If the parameter exceeds 0.5 mm, the cause should be identified and eliminated. After checking the presence of geometric imbalance, it is worth removing the wheel and performing balancing on a special machine. This should eliminate the beating almost completely.

Consequences of wheel runout



The most obvious consequence of beating is rapid tire wear. They begin to wear off unevenly, which degrades their technical characteristics.
Another point that is less obvious is damage to the suspension and steering. The runout is characterized by impacts on the chassis elements mated with the wheel, as well as on the steering mechanisms. This leads to their rapid failure.
Another potential problem is deterioration in handling. There is a risk of losing control of the vehicle in the event of severe impacts. The result may be an emergency on the road.

End (axial) runout of the wheel occurs during rotation and looks like the oscillatory movement of the wheel rims in a plane parallel to the axis of rotation.

Radial runout occurs in similar conditions, but means oscillatory movement of the rim in a vertical plane.

In the figure on the left you can see a schematic representation of both types of beats.

High end runout values ​​are often the result of wheel impacts from a side curb collision. Sometimes this can be seen when the jeep skids on a slippery road. The exceeding value of the radial runout appears as a result of a strong frontal impact on the wheel, that is, in a collision with a pothole or a pit. But more often than not, a "good" hit will result in both beats. In pronounced cases, the steel disc gets crushed on the rim flanges, chipped and visible to the naked eye "eight" when rolling.

What is considered an excess?

In accordance with the domestic standard GOST R 50511-93, the runout of a passenger car rim in the area of ​​the tire (humps) should be no more than 0.5 mm in any kind of runout. This standard also applies to SUVs.

Do not try to establish the amount of beating of the steel disc visually, as in this case, vision will not allow you to accurately estimate the size of the deviation. In some cases, with such small beats as 0.3 mm, the average person is convinced of its exorbitant size. For accurate measurement, a clock or electronic indicator should be used, which is located on the axis of symmetry of the jeep's rim.

The most common causes of beating

A significant part of the causes of the runout are not associated with a change in the geometry of the alloy wheel of an SUV, but relate to production or operational:

  • Uneven disc mating surface paintwork
  • Adhered pieces of road surface and dirt
  • Debris and foreign matter on the balancer flange

In other words, you shouldn't always blame yourself or the previous owner of the car for an unacceptable amount of heartbeat. The reason may be more prosaic and does not require large investments to eliminate it.

As soon as the first car appeared, the first problems with wheel balancing appeared. Over the years, the speed of movement on the roads increased, the coverage on the roads changed, and the attitude to imbalance changed accordingly.

What is wheel imbalance?

An imbalance is considered to be the presence of unbalanced rotating masses: hubs, brake drums, rims and especially tires that make driving difficult. This imbalance reduces the life of the shock absorbers, suspension, steering, tires, driving safety and increases maintenance costs.

Any wheel is an object of rotation with a symmetrical shape, due to which the center of gravity should lie on the axis of rotation, and all points of the wheel surface in sections should be equidistant from it.

Which wheel is considered balanced?

A wheel is considered balanced when its axis of rotation is also the main central axis of inertia. However, both wheels and car tires are produced with certain tolerances. From this we can conclude that any wheel is almost always asymmetrical, and, therefore, has an imbalance.

What types of imbalances are there?

There are two types of imbalance: static and dynamic.

Static imbalance- this is an uneven distribution of masses along the axis of rotation, while the wheel beats in a vertical plane. When the wheel rotates, the unbalanced mass creates its own centrifugal force F, which, when the wheel rotates, creates a directionally variable torque on the axle, which leads to the breaking of the suspension. This imbalance is eliminated by applying a force Fу equal to the force F in magnitude, but opposite in direction. This is achieved by attaching an additional weight at the opposite point of the unbalanced mass. This is called static balancing.

Dynamic imbalance appears due to the uneven distribution of masses in the planes of the wheel. With dynamic unbalance, a pair of oppositely directed forces F acts on the wheel, acting on a certain arm relative to the plane of rotation of the wheel. Dynamic balancing is carried out on special balancing stands. Basically, when balancing a wheel, we are faced with a combined imbalance (a “combination” of static and dynamic imbalances).

What causes the imbalance?

Sometimes, imbalance of a wheel can occur due to its design features - a variable pitch of the tire tread pattern, the presence of a valve hole in the disc, a hatch for adjusting the brakes in the brake drum, or manufacturability - inaccuracies in the geometric shape, dimensional deviations, inhomogeneity of materials, etc. ...

The car tire has the greatest influence on wheel imbalance. It is farthest from the center of rotation, has a large weight, a complex multicomponent structure, and is made of various materials: rubber, fabrics, steel wire, etc. The further from the center the excess mass of the tire material, the greater the effect on the imbalance it has.

There are several main factors that affect tire imbalance:

  • tread joint, unevenness of its thickness along the circumference, variable pitch of the tread pattern, in winter studded tires - spikes (in a new tire and as they fall out);
  • joints in a ply of a cord, joints of a cord in a carcass and a belt;
  • the joint of the sealing layer in the tubeless tire;
  • non-concentricity of the bead rings, large wire overlap in the bead ring;
  • inconsistency of the angles of inclination of the cords in the layers of the carcass and belt;
  • divergence of the cords in the layers;
  • precision of mold manufacturing;
  • different thickness of side walls and sides;
  • grouped in one place markings on the sidewall of the tire, etc.

Increasing the requirements for the technological accuracy of all production processes of tires and wheel parts is an indispensable condition for improving their quality, and therefore reducing imbalance and beating.

It is advisable to check the imbalance of wheels assembled with tires every 2-3,000 km, and every 10,000 - wheels with tires must be rebalanced.

Imbalance and runout of alloy wheels

In the manufacture of light alloy wheels, there are many features that affect the imbalance. If there is no permissible imbalance value for checking on a balancing machine to determine a defect according to the Russian standard (GOST R 50511-93), then in practice we support the internal standards of wheel manufacturers. These enterprises are suppliers of disks to conveyors of world and Russian car manufacturers, and their internal standard can be applied to disks supplied to our automotive market. In order to avoid a situation related to imbalance, our company has decided to bring to the attention of buyers the limit values ​​of the imbalance.

There are several types of beats: radial and axial. Radial runout is the center deviation from the reference axis. The radial runout of the disc should not exceed (0.7mm). Axial runout is the runout of the disc along the axis (figure eight). The axial runout of the disc should not exceed (1mm).

If an unacceptable beating of a new disc is detected, an act of factory defect is drawn up, and the disc is returned to the manufacturer for inspection and replacement with a disc of proper quality in accordance with the Russian standard GOST R 50511-93.3. In this case, the buyer does not bear any costs for replacing a disc of proper quality.

Also, during the operation of tires and disks, there are moments when external factors affect the steering wheel runout. This is adhesion to the inner part of the disc (dirt and ice), the steering wheel beats at a speed (from 80 to 120 km / h), which is eliminated by washing the wheel and subsequent rebalancing.

Also, the deformation of the disc and tire affects the balancing, as a result of disc jam and the appearance of a hernia on the tire, an imbalance of the entire wheel and discomfort when driving occurs.

An imbalance can also be a factor such as incomplete adherence of the tire to the disc during installation and subsequent incorrect balancing, this is due to the low qualifications of the tire service workers. For the correct fit of the tire on the rim, a special mounting paste must be used, and for the complete adhesion of the bead ring of the tire to the rim of the rim, excess pressure in the tire must be used during mounting, as well as a special device for mounting a low-profile tire or a tire with a reinforced sidewall (RunFlat). As a rule, low-skilled workers work in an ordinary (roadside W / M) and a good quality of work can not be expected, therefore we recommend contacting proven or well-known W / M with qualified workers, because many W / M workers do not even know the elementary symbols on the tire such as outside (outside of the tire) and inside (inside of the tire), as well as colored markings (red, yellow, green and white) on the side, which are indicated by the manufacturer for ease of installation and balancing, for example (yellow) dot indicates the easiest place in the tire and it must be combined with the valve in the disc for better optimization, and the red dot denotes the heaviest place in the tire and it must be placed opposite the valve in the disc, also the most experienced W / M workers do the optimization by spinning the tire on the disc to reduce the imbalance.

Also, wheel runout can be influenced by such a factor as incorrect selection of the disc to a specific car, for example, the mismatch of the center hole of the disc to your car, which will lead to displacement of the disc on the axis of the car, which will lead to the steering wheel beating, as well as to unscrew the fasteners of the disc on vehicle, which could result in an ACCIDENT. Here we have given only a small part of what can affect the imbalance and runout of light alloy wheels, but our managers will help you in a qualified selection and solving problems with emerging issues.

Terminology

A complete wheel is a wheel with a tire mounted on it.

A wheel is a rotating element of a car that transmits torque and receives a load from the mass of the car. The wheel is located between the tire and the hub.

A tire is a resilient air-filled shell designed to be mounted on a rim.

The wheel of a modern passenger car, as a rule, consists of non-separable elements: a disc and a rim.

The wheel disc is the part of the wheel that is the connecting element between the vehicle hub and the wheel rim.

The wheel rim is the part of the wheel on which the tire is mounted and supported. Different sections of the rim have specific names:

Rim flange - the part of the wheel rim that forms the side stop for the bead of the tire.

Rim landing flange - the part of the rim designed to accommodate the base of the tire bead.

Hump ​​- an annular protrusion on the rim, which prevents the toe of the tire bead from sliding off the landing shelf and depressurization of the tubeless tire under load.

Mounting groove - a part of the rim that has a width and depth sufficient for mounting and dismounting of the tire bead through the bead flange of the rim.

The main elements of the tire:

- protector

- sidewall

- hermetic layer

To the consumer

1. Make sure that vibration of the vehicle occurs on different types of roads and that it is not related to ruts and unevenness on the road (road markings, changes in road surface types, minor unevenness on the road ...)

2. Inspect the wheels - clean the wheels from dirt, wash them, especially from the inside. Inspect wheels for damage. Examine the tires carefully - remove all stuck objects from the tread pattern: stones and other objects.

3. Check the level of tightening of bolts / nuts or other fasteners of the wheels, make sure that the tightening torque is not weakened.

If necessary, tighten the bolts yourself or contact a tire shop.

4. Inspect the wheels for missing balancing weights. If you find that the goods have been lost, inform a specialist tire changer or auto mechanic.

5. Check the inflation pressure in the tires. The pressure should be checked and set only on cold tires (i.e. not immediately after prolonged continuous operation) and it should be in accordance with the recommendations of the car manufacturer (see the factory information tag (sticker, sticker), which is usually located on the fuel filler flap or in the driver's doors).

6. If all of the above actions did not eliminate the vibrations, you should contact the tire shop. Try to determine which wheel is the source of the vibration. Give this information to a specialist tire changer or car mechanic.

8. After tire fitting, exclude sudden starts and emergency braking from your driving style for a period of one week from the date of tire fitting in order to avoid turning the tire on the wheel.

INFORMATION SHEET:

The vibration of the steering wheel or car can be caused by a feature of the tires or by other reasons

Causes of wheel beating

For a specialist

1. Check with the consumer - which wheels are the source of vibrations? When are vibrations felt?

2. Check the inflation pressure of all tires.

3. Thoroughly clean the wheel assembly from dust, dirt and other foreign matter.

4. Determine which wheel assembly is the cause of vibration - to do this, evaluate the vibration with the driver at the current wheel alignment, rearrange the wheels on the car and analyze the changes. As a rule, vibration is caused by one, rarely two wheels, and not all four. When the wheel (s) have been identified - inspect it (s)

4.1 Remove the wheel (s) assembly suspected of being the vibration source from the vehicle

4.2 Check the wheel assemblies for residual imbalance. The residual imbalance should be no more than 5 grams per side.

4.3 Check the level of radial and lateral runout of all removed wheel assemblies. The radial runout should be no more than 1.5 mm (total average value). The runout level should be measured exclusively with a meter on a balancing machine or dial indicator. Do not use the "by eye" rating.

4.4 Check the shrinkage of the tire on the rim. Bead trim should be evenly spaced from the rim flange.

4.5 Check the condition of the wheels ("disks") - there should be no damage to the wheels: dents, cracks, traces of welding or repair.

4.6 Check the condition of the wheel surface in the part where the wheel rests on the vehicle hub (mating plane) - there should be no traces of corrosion, dirt, varnish, paint and other foreign substances on the mating plane.

4.7 Check the car hub - the hub must be clean: free of rust, dirt and other foreign matter.

4.8 Check the condition of the wheel center hole - it must be smooth, free from damage, dirt, corrosion, paint and varnish deposits, and other substances. The center bore of the wheel must match the exact dimensions of the hub, or spacer rings of the correct size must be used.

4.9 Fitted wheel center bore spacers (if any) must be of the correct size, fit snugly, clean and free of damage.

4.10 If any foreign substances are visible on the mating plane, the center hole of the wheel or the hub of the car - remove them with a brush or other cleaning tools and means.

4.11 Check the condition of the tires - there should be no traces of significant repairs on the tires, no noticeable damage (swelling, cuts), foreign objects in the tires (stones, etc.)

4.12 Check the fasteners. Nuts / bolts must match: the size of the thread - the car; by the type of fastening surface (cone, sphere, plane) - to wheels; along their length, the nuts / bolts must be tightened at least 6 - 8 turns until they are fully tightened; threads must be clean, free of dirt, threads free from bumps and burrs.

5. When you have determined which wheel assembly is the cause of vibrations - make a mark on the tire about the valve position and dismantle the tire and inspect:

5.1 Check the condition of the wheel rim - there should be no traces of corrosion, dirt and other foreign substances on the rim (especially on the rim edge, landing shelf, hump and near it). If there are any substances on the rim, remove them with a brush and / or other means.

5.2 Check the condition of the rim for damage: there should be no dents, cracks, traces of welding or repair, geometry correction. Using a damaged wheel may cause vibrations.

5.3 Measure the runout level of the rim flange. The radial and lateral runout of the wheel rim landing flange should not exceed 0.5 mm. Runout is measured only by an indicator on the balancing machine or dial indicator.

5.4 Remove any installed balancing weights and measure the wheel unbalance (without tire). Please note that significant imbalance in the wheel can cause vibration.

5.5 Check the condition of the tires - there should be no traces of significant repairs on the tires, traces of driving with reduced pressure, damage to the bead and hermetic layer. Using damaged tires can require large amounts of balancing weights, vibrate and be hazardous!

6. Reinstall the tire onto the rim.

6.1 Before mounting, apply a thin, even coat of specially formulated grease to the rim and tire. On the rim, the grease should completely cover the rim landing flange, hump, with a thin layer. On the tire, the grease should cover both beads of the tire. The lubricant should be applied in a thin layer and should not be applied in excess to prevent the tire from spinning on the wheel. Avoid getting grease on the sidewall of the tire.

6.2 Tire inflation should be done in two stages. First, inflate the tire without a spool to 4 atmospheres of overpressure, until the tire shrinks completely on the rim, then release the overpressure, insert the spool and bring the pressure to the required level. Inflation in two stages allows the tire bead to be stretched better and to sit flat on the landing bunk.

6.3 Caution: When inflating the tire, do not stand on the sidewall of the tire. Always stay only on the side of the tread (!)

6.4 Check the shrinkage of the tire on the rim. Bead trim should be evenly spaced from the rim flange. If the shrinkage has not occurred completely, dismantle the tire, find the cause of the incomplete shrinkage (incomplete lubrication with grease, dirt, rim defects: repair, jam ...), eliminate this cause and re-inflate the tire until it completely shrinks.

7. Remove the wheel assembly from the tire changer and tap it on the floor for better bead shrinkage on the rim. Only then should the wheel be installed on the balancing machine.

10. Before installing the adhesive-type weights - bend them and shape them into the back of the rim. The place for the installation of weights should be additionally cleaned and degreased. Install weights. After installation, the weights should be additionally secured with a few blows with a hammer.

11. Mark a spot on the tire next to the tire inflation valve. If, after some time, this mark moves relative to the valve, this will be evidence of the wheel turning inside the tire. In this situation, the driver's attention should be paid to the manner of driving, as well as to reduce the amount of lubricant applied during tire fitting.

12. Reinstall the wheel assembly onto the vehicle.

13. Additionally, make sure that the real direction of rotation and the specified by the tread pattern match.

14. Check fasteners. Nuts or bolts must match: by thread size - car; by the type of fastening surface (cone, sphere, plane) - to wheels; along their length - nuts or bolts must be tightened at least 6 - 8 turns until fully tightened; threads must be clean, free of dirt, threads free from bumps and burrs.

15. Lubricate the fasteners with a drop of engine oil or a little grease.

16. Tighten the bolts by sequentially tightening the opposite bolts from the center hole.

17. Tighten the bolts with a torque wrench to the required torque for the type of wheel.

Consistent and careful execution of these actions eliminates the origin of vibrations associated with tires and tire fitting work. If, as a result of the operations, vibrations remain, then the technical condition of the car should be checked.

* "FIT (OPTIMIZATION)" - the procedure for optimal alignment of the tire and rim, taking into account their

features. The fit can be aimed at 1) reducing the level of runout of the wheel assembly

2) reducing the number of installed loads to eliminate the imbalance. "Trim (Optimize)" to Reduce Runout and Reduce Vibration:

18. Measure the level of radial runout of the rim (without tire) - find the place with the lowest level of the rim (closest to the center of the pivot); mark it on the inside of the rim so that after mounting the tire - this place is clearly visible

19. Install the tire, inflate the tire and measure the tire radial runout. Where tire runout is greatest (further from the center of rotation) - make a mark on the tire.

20. Deflate the tire, remove the tire beads from the landing flange and rotate the tire and wheel to align the marks. Align the marks on the rim and on the tire so that they are on the same virtual line towards the center of the circle.

21. Inflate the tire in two steps, making sure the tire is correctly seated on the rim flange. Bead trim should be evenly spaced from the rim flange. If the shrinkage has not occurred completely, dismantle the tire, eliminate the cause and re-inflate.

Compliance with the alignment of the marks will give the lowest level of radial runout and a decrease in possible vehicle vibrations.

If the car pulls to the side

To the consumer

3. Check the direction of rotation of the tires. Is the direction indicated on the tire correct? If tires with non-directional tread pattern are installed, make sure they are installed with the outside (production date) facing out (away from the vehicle).

4. Inspect the tires - do all tires have the same residual tread depth? A significant difference in the tread depth of the tires on one axle can cause the vehicle to slip to the side.

5. Check that the installed wheels (disks) and tires comply with the requirements of the car manufacturer's factory.

6. Make sure that the drift occurs on different types of roads and that it is not related to ruts on the road, road slopes or load distribution on the vehicle or trailer.

7. Check the level of tightening of bolts / nuts or other fasteners of the wheels - it is possible that the tightening torque is weak.

8. Check the technical condition of the vehicle: wheel alignment parameter, the condition of the brake system, the general condition of the chassis of the vehicle.

9. If the above steps do not fix the problem, you should contact the tire shop.

10. Establish when the vehicle is drifting: when accelerating, when driving at speed, when coasting, when braking or other options - inform a tire specialist or auto mechanic.

INFORMATION SHEET:

The phenomenon when the car pulls to the side can be caused both by the peculiarity of the tires and by other reasons:

Materials used (wheels, fasteners ...)

The quality of tire fitting works,

The quality of work on installing the wheel assembly on the vehicle

The technical condition of the vehicle (the condition of the car's hub, the condition of the chassis, the vehicle's brake system ...)

And also other reasons not related to tires

To find out the real reason, you should contact a specialized tire workshop or an experienced auto mechanic.

TIRE SPECIALIST OR AUTOMOTIVE

1. Check the inflation pressure of all tires.

2. Make sure tires of the same size, model, construction and tread pattern are installed on the same axle of the vehicle.

3. Check the direction of rotation of the wheel and match the tread pattern of the tire.

4. Check tire wear and residual tread depth. A significant difference in residual tread depth or a difference in the type of tire wear can cause the vehicle to slip to the side.

5. Check that the installed wheels (disks) and tires comply with the requirements of the vehicle manufacturer.

6. Carry out rotations (change of mounting locations) of the wheel assembly on the car and determine the influence of the position of the tires on the degree of "slip" of the car. As a rule, the cause of car drift is one, rarely two wheels, and not all four.

7. Compare with other tires and determine if tire fitting is associated with drift, and if so, which tires?

8. Check the shrinkage of the tire on the rim. Check wheel runout and balance. If necessary, re-dismantle / install / balance - see above.

If, based on the result of tire rotations and the use of other tires for comparison, it was not possible to determine which tires are the cause of the car drift, then the technical condition of the car should be checked: the camber-toe parameter, the state of the brake system and the car's suspension, steering, as well as other systems and assemblies vehicle.

What to do if “a lot” of weights were required for balancing

To the consumer

1. Check the inflation pressure in the tires. The correct pressure should be set on cold tires (not immediately after extended periods of continuous use) and should be in accordance with the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations.

2. Inspect the wheels - clean the wheels from dirt, wash them. Inspect wheels for damage. Examine the tires carefully - remove all stuck objects from the tread pattern: stones and other objects. Remember that foreign objects: dirt, stones, excess rim repair material, self-installed decorative elements on the wheels can cause increased imbalance, which requires the installation of a relatively large number of weights for balancing.

3. If you have any additional questions - contact the tire shop.

5. After tire fitting, exclude sudden starts and emergency braking from your driving style for a period of one week from the date of tire fitting.

INFORMATION SHEET:

Balancing weights are used in tires to balance the wheel mass and rotate them evenly, without vibrations. The amount of weights required to balance a wheel depends on both the level of tire imbalance and the imbalance of the rim used, the quality of the tire shrinkage on the rim, and the quality of the tire fitting. The amount of balancing weights, when correctly installed, does not affect the performance of tires and the vehicle as a whole.

The number of goods glued (by the type of fastening) to the rim is not standardized by the general standards of GOST and other standards, only the number of rammed / clamped (by the type of fastening) loads is normalized.

For a specialist

The number of weights required to balance the wheel depends on the imbalance of the wheel, the unbalance of the tire, the measurement error of the balancing machine and the quality of the tire fitting. To reduce the amount of weights required for balancing the wheel assembly, you should use "adjustment (optimization)", which can be done in two main ways:

1. Thoroughly clean the complete wheels from dust, dirt and other foreign matter.

2. Bleed the air from the tire, dismantle it and inspect the wheel more carefully:

2.1 Check the condition of the wheel rim - on the rim (especially on the landing shelf and hump) there is no

but be traces of corrosion, dirt and other foreign matter. If there are any substances on the rim, remove them with a brush and / or other means.

2.2 Check the condition of the rim for damage: there should be no dents, cracks, traces of welding or repair, geometry correction. Using a damaged wheel has unpredictable consequences and may require the installation of a large number of weights.

2.3 Measure the runout level of the rim flange. The radial and lateral runout of the wheel rim landing flange should not exceed 0.5 mm. Runout is measured only by an indicator on the balancing machine or dial indicator.

2.4 Remove any installed balancing weights and measure the wheel unbalance (without tire).

3. Install the wheel without tire on the balancing machine

4. Measure and set the required amount of balancing weights so that the wheel (without a tire) has a residual unbalance of no more than 5 grams per side

5. Check the condition of the tires - there should be no traces of significant repairs on the tires, traces of low pressure driving, damage to the bead and hermetic layer. Using damaged tires can require large amounts of balancing weights, vibrate and be hazardous!

6. Mount the tire on the rim, fix the wheel assembly on the balancing machine using flange and collet adapters. Flange and collet adapters are special devices that center the wheel position on the balancing machine.

(For example, the HAWEKA device Attention!

The adapters used must be free of deformation and signs of significant wear.

7. Using the program for measuring static unbalance, - find the lightest place of the wheel assembly and mark it on the tire with chalk or felt-tip pen (marker).

8. Bleed the air from the tire, remove the installed balance weights from the rim.

9. Insert the tire beads into the rim mounting groove and rotate the tire over the rim to align the chalk mark on the tire and the valve. Align the mark on the bus and the valve so that they are on the same virtual line directed towards the center of the circle.

10. Inflate the tire in two stages, making sure the tire is correctly seated on the rim flange.

11. Observing the alignment of the valve and the mark will allow the heaviest part of the rim to be connected to the lightest part of the tire, thus reducing the amount of weight required to balance the wheel.

1. Place the tire on the rim, inflate the tire in two steps, make sure the tire is properly seated on the rim flange, and mount the wheel assembly to the balancer using flange and collet adapters.

2. Mark on the outer sidewall of the tire the mark with the number 1 so that this mark is on the same virtual line with the valve and the center of rotation of the wheel assembly on the machine.

3. Turn the wheel assembly on the machine 180 degrees and on the same outer sidewall of the tire set another mark with the number 3 so that the mark is on the same virtual line with the valve and the center of the circle.

4. Next, rotate the wheel assembly at an angle of 90 degrees and make two more marks on the sidewalls numbered 2 and 4 so that the virtual line connecting the two marks numbered 2 and 4 is perpendicular to the virtual line connecting the marks numbered 1 and 3.

5. As a result, there should be 4 consecutive marks on the sidewall of the tire, identical to positions 12, 3, 6 and 9 as on the dial of a mechanical watch. The position of the wheel inside the tire using these marks will be determined by the tire valve.

6. First measure the dynamic unbalance * of the wheel assembly with the valve position next to the number 1 mark. Record the values ​​marked “1”

7. Remove the wheel from the balancing machine; release air from the tire; remove the tire from the landing shelf; turn the tire by aligning the wheel valve with the mark 2 on the tire; inflate the tire in two stages; make sure the tire is correctly seated on the rim shelf; install the wheel assembly on the balancing machine; measure the dynamic unbalance and record the values ​​marked with 2.

8. Repeat the described actions with marks 3 and 4. Compare the obtained values ​​and choose the optimal one.

9. For most situations, it is enough to choose one of four positions

10. In exceptional cases, further adjustments can be made. To do this, it is necessary to reduce the distance between the marks, take measurements and find the most optimal value. Following these recommendations, as a rule, allows you to reduce the amount of weights required for balancing. It should be understood, however, that there are imbalance tolerances for each tire size. In addition, please be aware that at the time of this writing

on the territory of the Russian Federation, there are no uniform tolerances for the mass of correction weights separately for wheels. Accordingly, the implementation of these recommendations will give the most optimal value of correction weights, however, it will not always be able to eliminate it completely.

4. What to do if you can see that the tire has a runout (has an "egg" or "eight" shape)

1. Check the inflation pressure in the tires. The pressure should be checked and set only on cold tires (i.e. not immediately after prolonged continuous operation) and it should be in accordance with the recommendations of the car manufacturer (see the factory information tag (sticker, sticker), which is usually located on the fuel filler flap or in the driver's doors).

2. Do not try to visually assess the tire runout. It is not right. The human eye is not the most accurate instrument, and visually a beat of 0.3 mm is perceived by a person as critical, although in fact it is not. Only measurement with the help of specialized means can give an exact value.

3. Contact a tire shop to measure the runout.

4. Evaluate - whether the detected beating causes any inconvenience: steering vibration, car body vibration, uneven tire wear, car drifting to the side ... Give this information to a tire changer or auto mechanic.

5. Inspect the tires for wire strands coming out of the solid rubber compound and for internal lamination of the tire. If you find something - contact a tire shop and inform the tire changer or auto mechanic about it.

6. After tire fitting, exclude sudden starts and emergency braking from your driving style for a period of one week from the date of tire fitting.

For a specialist

1. Check the tire inflation pressure.

2. Inspect the tires for wire strands coming out of the solid rubber compound and for internal lamination of the tire.

3. Measure the tire radial and lateral runout. Radial runout should not exceed 1.5 mm, lateral 2 mm.

4. If the measured values ​​meet the specified limits and no delamination or wire breaks were detected, then everything is in order and you can continue to operate.

5. If the measured values ​​meet the specified limits, then check the condition of the wheel and tire according to the scheme described in section 1 from external inspection to re-fitting and balancing (points 1 to 19).

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