If it bursts brake hose, only half of the brakes fail. How the car behaves was checked by Sergey Mishin and Valery Pavlov.

For the experiment we chose two domestic car- “Lada-112” and “Chevrolet-Niva”. Both have diagonal dual-circuit brake systems. This scheme is the most modern, since if any circuit fails, the efficiency of the remaining circuit should theoretically be exactly half. What about in practice?

Braking efficiency standards for working and spare braking systems defined by GOST R 51709-2001. It shows the braking distance and deceleration values ​​from a speed of 40 km/h. Not modern! We will brake from 100 km/h - this threshold has long been used all over the world when assessing the effectiveness of brakes on dry asphalt.

Let's start with the “twelfth” - this car is lighter, and it’s closer to the ground - it’s not so scary to jump into the arms of a mysterious experiment. We determine the braking distance at working system. We brake on the verge of skidding, achieving maximum deceleration, that is, the driver imitates ABS, trying to prevent the wheels from locking.

A few repetitions – and you manage to achieve the required pedal force. You have to gently press it - the front brakes heat up and their effectiveness decreases. At the same time, the braking distance from 100 km/h is 43.9 m.

By disconnecting the rear tube from the master cylinder, we will “halve” the brakes: now the car will brake with only two wheels – the front left and rear right. We repeat the exercise.

The pedal travel approximately doubled, but at the same time it did not sink all the way to the floor, contrary to the stories of experienced people. The car tries to jump to the left - towards the braking front wheel, and to keep it within the lane, you have to turn the steering wheel to the right by about 40–50 degrees. But even then the Lada scours the strip.

In three attempts, the braking distance ranged from 93.1 to 112.1 m. average value– 103.5 m, that is, the braking distance has increased by 2.36 times! The reason is that part of the adhesion force, which only works to slow down when the brakes are working, when braking with one circuit is spent on maintaining the course, that is, on combating drift. This part, as we see, is quite significant.

We repeat the measurements with another circuit. First, we put the tube in place, bleed the system and make sure that there is no air in it - the braking distance does not exceed 44 m. Then we disconnect the tube of the other circuit.

At emergency braking the effect is similar - the front wheel with a working brake is pulled towards the side, in our case to the right. The braking distance increased to 101.2–110.8 m. The average value was 105.1 m, that is, an increase of 2.39 times.

The difference in the efficiency of the circuits is only 1.5%, the average braking distance is 104.3 m, the average deceleration is 3.68 m/s2.

Let's check how the car behaves if its course is not corrected by the steering wheel when braking. The next approach is to steer straight only. But when the car moves into the next lane, you have to turn the steering wheel to keep from changing lanes into the next lane. If you don’t operate the steering wheel at all, the car will change at least two lanes before it comes to a complete stop!

We had a professional test driver behind the wheel, often working in extreme conditions. In addition, we performed braking on dry asphalt with a high coefficient of adhesion. Most likely, on a wet or icy road it will be impossible to keep the car on course. In everyday language, this means a skid and a turn, which can end very sadly.

It's the turn of the Chevrolet Niva. In normal mode, when braking from hundreds, the braking distance averaged 53.3 m. But our task is not to compare cars with each other, but to evaluate the difference in brake efficiency. How many meters will we slow down with one circuit?

A few runs - and the answer is ready: on average - 121.6 m. But the increase in distance is less than on the “twelfth” - only 2.28 times. But the sensations are less pleasant, and it’s not a matter of great progress brake pedal- it has increased approximately the same as on the Lada - but in the behavior of the car.

When braking on the verge of skidding, the car pulls towards the driver front brake, like on the Lada, only weaker. The corrective action of the steering wheel to stay in your lane is smaller - the steering wheel needs to be turned 30–40 degrees. When braking without wheel lock, as the brakes heat up, the required pedal force increases noticeably. But if the wheel gets blocked, which is quite difficult to avoid, the driver is waiting for an unpleasant surprise- “Chevy Niva” is rushing into the opposite side, where it is pulled by the front wheel turned to maintain course with the circuit turned off.

To summarize: if one of the circuits fails, the braking distance increases by almost two and a half times. At the same time, both cars noticeably scour the road and strive to jump into the next lane, and if you don’t react in time, then further. The behavior of each car has its own nuances. The Lada pulls harder than the Chevy Niva. But the all-terrain vehicle, when the front wheel is blocked, changes the direction of “pull”.

OUR RECOMMENDATIONS
If there is a sudden sharp increase in the brake pedal travel, do not panic; continue to press it until the remaining working circuit is activated. Be prepared to turn the steering wheel the right side to keep the car in your lane.

Press the pedal carefully, trying to accurately measure the applied force. Locking the front wheel will lead to an increase in braking distance, and sometimes to a change in the direction of slip.

When the front wheel locks (accompanied by a specific whistling sound), lighten the pressure on the pedal slightly, but do not release it completely.

Do not try to pump the brake pedal by releasing it completely, even for a short time - such actions will lead to unnecessary consumption brake fluid through a faulty circuit, and the lost time will only increase the stopping distance.

At emergency braking try to go around the obstacle if the adjacent lanes are clear, but remember that a collision in an adjacent lane Rules traffic interpreted not in your favor.

1. Turn off the water, turn off the electricity - note that simply disconnecting the washing machine from the power source may not be enough, sometimes electrical cables are laid along the walls under the floor, in which case they can get wet, which creates the risk of a short circuit.

2. Collect water from the floor as quickly as possible before it goes down.

3. Go down to your neighbors on the floor below and ask if everything is okay with them. If not, then follow the instructions from the article: .

The service life of the hose depends on the correct connection and the constant water pressure.

1. Correct connection washing machine, dishwasher to the water supply system. Either official service center, or a plumber from the housing office. Be sure to keep your receipts. Please note that the machine must have a separate tap that shuts off the water supply to it. When the machine is not washing, it is recommended to turn off the water.

2. Use of quality materials. Unfortunately, flexible hoses, which can be found in a nearby hardware store, cannot cope with pressure surges in our apartments. Save your receipts. Use special ones - they are more expensive than regular ones, but much more reliable.

3. Availability of water pressure regulators in the apartment.

4. Special blocking devices that shut off water in case of leaks. are placed directly together with the hose to cold water.

The washing machine is leaking

From a reader's story.

With the advent automatic washing machines Cases of flooding of apartments began to increase. A similar situation happened with our apartment.

Once the neighbor upstairs forgot to throw a hose into the bathroom, from which water flows from washing machine. And she left the house, leaving the washing machine on. First, water began to appear on my ceiling in the bathroom, then in the toilet, in the hallway, in the kitchen.

There can be many reasons why washing machines leak. The main thing here is to react quickly, turn off the machine and eliminate puddles, this way you can avoid flooding your neighbors.

First, the ceiling became wet, and then completely warm water began to drip onto our heads. Funny or not, my child was running around the apartment under an umbrella; for him it was some kind of entertainment. Thank God that this neighbor often went on business trips and left the keys to the apartment with her neighbors. They helped open the door and eliminate the flood.

Fortunately, the furniture in our apartment was not damaged, but there were terrible orange stains on the ceiling. Fortunately, the neighbor was a conscientious woman and reimbursed the cost of painting the ceiling, but we had to deal with this matter ourselves, since she did not pay for the workers’ services.

By the way, these yellow spots appeared again after a few months, and it is simply useless to fight them.

When dealing with high blood pressure, especially at first, many people are haunted by fears. The imagination paints a terrible picture: a burst hose high pressure with a terrible whistle it whips everything and everyone, cutting through iron and people. Many will smile, but I have more than once heard similar phobias from people who are openly afraid of PCP rifles.

Let's put it this way: there are phobias, and there are safety precautions. We have already written about the old ones, which are still in demand among the most economical and risky divers and airgunners. Today we are not talking about them. Let's talk about high pressure hoses.

How the high pressure hose works

Conventionally, a hose (in industry it is usually called a high-pressure hose) consists of three parts:

Internal hose. It is sealed, made of a very elastic material that is resistant to all kinds of chemical damage.

Braid. It comes in one or several layers, often made of metal mesh. Her job is to contain the pressure.

Outer layer. Plastics or special rubber are often used here. The purpose of this layer is to protect the hose from cuts, punctures, deformations, etc.

You must understand that the high pressure hose is a rather fragile thing that has a fairly short lifespan. Instantaneous pressure drops during refueling from 0 to 200 atmospheres wear out the hose and the inner layer is destroyed. By the way, a common misconception is that the hose can be easily damaged. It will be very difficult for you to accidentally puncture or cut the outside of the hose. Not every knife can cut through an iron braid. The inner layer will tear on its own much earlier.

How does a high pressure hose break?

This usually happens near the sleeve (on the connector side). The tightness of the inner layer is broken, air gets under the outer shell and begins to inflate it.

If you miss the moment and the bubble bursts, it will be very loud and scary. Actually, even in this condition the hose can be used carefully. Poke the bubble with a needle, the hose will poison, but you will still have a chance to refill your rifle's tank.

Naturally, tape and tape will not help you. If the heavy-duty outer braid breaks, then they certainly will not withstand such strong air pressure.

The only advice that can be given regarding high pressure hoses is to take a spare one with you. You will never be able to predict when it will burst, but the fact that this happens and can ruin the shoots is for sure.

For the experiment, we chose two domestic cars - Lada-112 and Chevrolet Niva. Both have diagonal dual-circuit brake systems. This scheme is the most modern, since if any circuit fails, the efficiency of the remaining circuit should theoretically be exactly half. What about in practice?

Standards for braking efficiency of working and spare brake systems are determined by GOST R 51709-2001. It shows the braking distance and deceleration values ​​from a speed of 40 km/h. Not modern! We will brake from 100 km/h - this threshold has long been used all over the world when assessing the effectiveness of brakes on dry asphalt.

Let's start with the “twelfth” - this car is lighter, and it’s closer to the ground - it’s not so scary to jump into the arms of an experiment. We determine the braking distance with a working system. We brake on the verge of skidding, achieving maximum deceleration, that is, the driver imitates ABS, trying to prevent the wheels from locking.

A few repetitions – and you manage to achieve the required pedal force. You have to gently press it - the front brakes heat up and their effectiveness decreases. At the same time, the braking distance from 100 km/h is 43.9 m.

By disconnecting the rear tube from the master cylinder, we will “halve” the brakes: now the car will brake with only two wheels – the front left and rear right. We repeat the exercise.

The pedal travel approximately doubled, but at the same time it did not sink all the way to the floor, contrary to the stories of experienced people. The car tries to jump to the left - towards the braking front wheel, and in order to keep it within the lane, you have to turn the steering wheel to the right by about 40-50 degrees. But even then the Lada scours the strip.

In three attempts, the braking distance ranged from 93.1 to 112.1 m. The average value was 103.5 m, that is, the braking distance increased by 2.36 times! The reason is that part of the adhesion force, which only works to slow down when the brakes are working, when braking with one circuit is spent on maintaining the course, that is, on combating drift. This part, as we see, is quite significant.

We repeat the measurements with another circuit. First, we put the tube in place, bleed the system and make sure that there is no air in it - the braking distance does not exceed 44 m. Then we disconnect the tube of the other circuit.

During emergency braking, the effect is similar - the front wheel with a working brake is pulled towards the side, in our case to the right. The braking distance increased to 101.2–110.8 m. The average value was 105.1 m, that is, an increase of 2.39 times.

The difference in the efficiency of the circuits is only 1.5%, the average braking distance is 104.3 m, the average deceleration is 3.68 m/s2.

Let's check how the car behaves if its course is not corrected by the steering wheel when braking. The next approach is to steer straight only. But when the car moves into the next lane, you have to turn the steering wheel to keep from changing lanes into the next lane. If you don’t operate the steering wheel at all, the car will change at least two lanes before it comes to a complete stop!

We had a professional test driver behind the wheel, often working in extreme conditions. In addition, we performed braking on dry asphalt with a high coefficient of adhesion. Most likely, on a wet or icy road it will be impossible to keep the car on course. In everyday language, this means a skid and a turn, which can end very sadly.

It's the turn of the Chevrolet Niva. In normal mode, when braking from hundreds, the braking distance averaged 53.3 m. But our task is not to compare cars with each other, but to evaluate the difference in brake efficiency. How many meters will we slow down with one circuit?

A few runs - and the answer is ready: on average - 121.6 m. But the increase in distance is less than on the “twelfth” - only 2.28 times. But the sensations are less pleasant, and the point is not in the large travel of the brake pedal - it has increased approximately the same as on the Lada - but in the behavior of the car.

When braking on the verge of skidding, the car is pulled towards the working front brake, just like on the Lada, only weaker. The corrective action of the steering wheel to stay in your lane is smaller - the steering wheel needs to be turned 30–40 degrees. When braking without wheel lock, as the brakes heat up, the required pedal force increases noticeably. But if the wheel locks, which is quite difficult to resist, the driver is in for an unpleasant surprise - the Chevy Niva rushes in the opposite direction, where it is pulled by the front wheel turned to maintain course with the circuit turned off.

To summarize: if one of the circuits fails, the braking distance increases by almost two and a half times. At the same time, both cars noticeably scour the road and strive to jump into the next lane, and if you don’t react in time, then further. The behavior of each car has its own nuances. The Lada pulls harder than the Chevy Niva. But the all-terrain vehicle, when the front wheel is blocked, changes the direction of “pull”.

OUR RECOMMENDATIONS
If there is a sudden sharp increase in the brake pedal travel, do not panic; continue to press it until the remaining working circuit is activated. Be prepared to turn the steering wheel in the right direction to keep the car in your lane.