Most of the VAZ-2107 cars that came off the production line were equipped with a carburetor power system, although injection versions were produced for export. “Sevens” with an injector appeared on the domestic market only in the last years of production. Therefore, most VAZ-2107s have a carburetor power system, which is already outdated.

But outdated does not mean bad; according to some criteria, the carburetor “bypasses” the injector. Positive qualities include a minimal amount of electronics, which affects the reliability of the power system, high maintainability, and unpretentiousness to the quality of gasoline.

But in order to maintain the VAZ-2107 power system in working order, some of its components require periodic maintenance. This primarily concerns the carburetor.
The VAZ-2107 uses an “Ozone” carburetor, unlike, for example, the. The Ozone carburetor is distinguished by a relatively simple design and unpretentiousness, which allows you to carry out maintenance of the unit yourself, without resorting to the services of a service station.
But we note that on the VAZ-2107 of various years of production, which were equipped with a carburetor power system, modifications of “Ozone” were used, although the difference between them is insignificant and it comes down to the use of auxiliary components that are different in design, but the general design is the same.

Signs of carburetor problems

Dust, contaminants and foreign particles that enter the carburetor with fuel and air settle on the internal walls of the channels, of which there are many in the design of the unit, which leads to malfunction. The carburetor design includes a number of components, the components of which wear out and become damaged over time, which affects its performance.
Signs indicating a carburetor malfunction:

• Difficulty starting the engine;
• Decrease in acceleration dynamics;
• Jerks, failures during acceleration;
• Unstable idle speed;
• Unauthorized stop of the engine;

These signs are also given by other engine systems (the same ignition system), but if the carburetor has not been serviced for a long time, then the reason for poor engine performance lies in this unit.

Types of service

Maintenance of Ozone carburetors can be partial or complete. The first is flushing the unit without removing it from the engine. This is done using special cleaning products such as “Carb Cleaner”. We use the product according to the instructions and continue to operate the car. But the effect of partial maintenance is short-lived and does not always help. Eventually you will have to perform a full service.

Full setup of Ozone carburetors comes down to complete disassembly of the unit, cleaning of the channels, checking the functionality of the mounted units, troubleshooting parts, assembly using spare parts and subsequent adjustment.

Tools and equipment for work

To carry out maintenance work you will need:

• A set of standard keys;
• Screwdrivers;
• Pliers;
• Rags;
• Carburetor cleaner (“Carb Cleaner” or equivalent);

You will also need a repair kit for the carburetor. Various types of repair kits are available, some of which include only gaskets, while others include all parts (jets, screws, emulsion tubes, etc.). It is better to purchase a complete set.

Since the carburetor consists of many small parts, disassembling it into its component parts, washing and troubleshooting and tuning is carried out in stages so as not to lose sight of anything.

Cleaning, troubleshooting, checking the VAZ 2107 carburetor

For full service, the unit must be removed from the car. This is done by dismantling the air filter housing, disconnecting the pipes, tubes, cables and solenoid valve wires from the assembly. Afterwards all that remains is to unscrew the 4 nuts securing the carburetor to the intake manifold and remove the assembly.


The Ozone carburetor includes three parts. It is better to work with each of them one by one: remove one - disassemble, clean, reassemble and move on to the next component.

Carburetor cover

Let's start with the lid. Maintenance includes the following steps:

1. Unscrew the screws securing the cover.
2. Disconnect the telescopic air damper control drive.
3. Remove the cover from the housing along with the trigger and float.
4. Unscrew the screws securing the starting device and disconnect the rod from the damper axis lever.
5. We remove the float axis and remove the float along with the locking needle.
6. We unscrew the filter plug installed on the fuel supply fitting (if the plug does not unscrew, apply a few gentle blows to it with a wrench). Remove the filter element (mesh).
7. We remove the gasket.
8. We wash the lid from dirt. We blow out the channels in it using a cleaning agent (if you don’t have the product on hand, you can blow it with compressed air).
9. We wash and blow through the filter mesh. We put it in place and tighten the plug.
10. We examine the condition of the locking needle (the rubber cuff on it). We install the float with the needle in place.
11. Check the position of the float (affects the level in the float chamber). This is done like this: we turn the lid over vertically (so that the locking needle closes the feed channel) and measure the distance from the float in the surface of the lid. The distance is 6.5 mm, with this indicator the level corresponds to the norm. If it doesn’t fit, we adjust and adjust the position of the float by bending the tongue.
12. Check the tightness of the locking needle. To do this, turn the cap over with the float up and create a vacuum in the inlet fitting with your mouth (extract air from the fitting). If the locking needle “does not hold,” replace it.
13. Using vacuum, we check the integrity of the diaphragm of the starting device (when creating vacuum, the rod of the device must move). If necessary, we repair the starting device using a new membrane from the repair kit.
14. We install the starting device on the carburetor cover (replacing the sealing collar of the device), connect the rods and the telescopic drive.

Afterwards we put in a new gasket and put the cover aside.

Video: Carburetor Ozone 2107-1107010

Frame

The next stage is cleaning and troubleshooting the case:

1. We dismantle the vacuum drive of the second chamber damper.
2. We disconnect the throttle body by unscrewing the mounting screws (from the bottom).
3. Disconnect the accelerator pump along with the diaphragm.
4. We unscrew the air and fuel jets (remember or mark where each one was located), remove the emulsion tubes installed under the air jets.
5. Unscrew the accelerator pump nozzle.
6. Unscrew the accelerator bypass jet.
7. Unscrew the idle speed solenoid valve.
8. We remove the diffusers.
9. We inspect the jets and channels of the removed parts for contamination, and if necessary, wash them.
10. We check the lower plane of the housing (where it is adjacent to the throttle body) for bending. If a bend is detected, replace or straighten the housing.
11. We blow out the channels (you can simply spray the cleaning agent into all visible holes).
12. We check the functionality of the vacuum drive of the throttle valve of the 2nd chamber.
13. We check the tightness of the diffusers.
14. We put the removed parts in place (it is important not to confuse their location) and auxiliary components.
15. Replace the gasket.

After these operations, put the body aside.

Throttle body

The next stage is setting up the throttle body:

• Unscrew the “quality” and “quantity” screws;
• We thoroughly clean the housing and blow through the channels in it;
• We replace the cuffs with screws and put them in place;

After servicing each component of the carburetor, we also carefully inspect them for correct assembly.
Next, we assemble the components together and install the carburetor in place, having first replaced the gasket under it and thoroughly cleaned the seating surface on the intake manifold.

Idle speed adjustment

After installing the carburetor on the VAZ-2107 engine, adjust the idle speed. This is done with the “quality” and “quantity” screws.
The adjustment technology is as follows:

After the adjustment, we check that it was carried out correctly. To do this, sharply increase the speed with the gas pedal and release the accelerator. If the adjustment is done correctly, there will be no dips when the throttle valves are opened sharply, and the speed increase should be fast. After releasing the pedal, the speed will drop to the idle level (800-900 rpm), the power plant should not stall.

Video: OZONE carburetor. Diagnostics and Repair

Seal

When carrying out maintenance and repairs, it becomes necessary to completely disassemble it. The order of disassembly is arbitrary, but it is still worth adhering to a certain algorithm. Let's look at the disassembly and assembly of the 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex carburetor, which was installed on the engines of VAZ 2108, 21081, 21083, 2109, 21091, 21093, 21099, etc.

Required Tools

You will need almost the entire set of tools presented on the page. It is the simplest, no complex devices are required. The second condition is the cleanliness of the workplace, since even the slightest contamination can create big problems.

Procedure for disassembling carburetors 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex

— Remove the carburetor from the car engine.

— Remove the upper part (cover) of the carburetor, having previously unscrewed, using a Phillips screwdriver, the five screws securing it to the body.

five screws securing the carburetor cover 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex

Let's take it apart first.

removing the upper part (cover) of the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex

— Using a thin drift (2.5 mm) and a light hammer, knock out the float axis.

removing the float axis on the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex

We take it out and remove the floats. We work carefully so as not to damage the cover posts into which this axis is threaded, and also to prevent deformation of the float bracket.

— Remove the cardboard gasket from the “lid.”

floats, needle valve and cardboard gasket removed from the carburetor cover

— Turn out the needle valve body.

To do this, we use an open-end or socket wrench size 11. Disconnect the housing and its copper (or aluminum) sealing ring.

unscrewing the needle valve body from the carburetor cover 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex

— We turn the electromagnetic valve of the EPHH system with a key to 13.

removing the solenoid valve from the carburetor cover

Remove the rubber o-ring and metal cup from it. We take out the fuel jet of the idle system.

— Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the carburetor fuel filter plug.

We take it out along with the copper o-ring and the mesh filter.

— We unscrew the fuel supply fitting.

We do this with a 13 key. We take out the fitting and its copper sealing ring.

fuel supply fitting and fuel strainer removed from the Solex carburetor cover

— Remove the air damper control lever.

To do this, unscrew the bolt securing it to the “cover” with a 14mm wrench and carefully, trying not to lose it, separate the fixing ball located underneath it. Then we take out the ball and the spring located under it.

Removing the Solex carburetor choke control lever

— We disassemble the starting device.

Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the four screws securing its cover. We move it back, simultaneously removing the rod on the diaphragm from engagement with the pin on the lever and then from the grooves in the device body. It is most convenient to keep the air damper open. Remove the cover, the diaphragm with the rod and the spring located under it.

elements of the carburetor starting device 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex

— Remove the spring of the air damper mechanism.

— Remove the carburetor air damper , using a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the two screws that secure it to the axle. If the screws do not come off, file their ends. After this, the axle is freely removed from the cover.

removing the air damper opener spring, removing the air damper itself and removing its axis

All the lids are disassembled.

We disassemble the housing of carburetors 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex

— Remove the rubber sealing ring on the idle air system channel tube.

rubber o-ring on the fuel channel tube of the idle air system

— Remove the bracket for fastening the air damper drive rod (“choke”) , unscrewing the screw securing it with a Phillips screwdriver.

Removing the bracket for fastening the shell of the air damper drive rod of the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex

— We remove the air jets of the main dosing systems along with the emulsion tubes.

On carburetors of the 2108 Solex family they are structurally combined. Therefore, we turn them out of the emulsion wells with a slotted screwdriver.

removing the air jets of the GDS with emulsion tubes from the emulsion wells of the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex

— Take out the accelerator pump nozzle.

To do this, use a slotted screwdriver to pry it under its upper spout and gently push it up. Remove the rubber o-ring from the nozzle body.

Removing the accelerator pump nozzle for carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex

— Using a thin slotted screwdriver, unscrew the fuel jets of the main metering systems.

They are located at the bottom of emulsion wells. After turning them inside out, you can remove them with a toothpick or simply shake them out.

removing fuel jets from emulsion wells

— We take out the small diffusers from both chambers of the carburetor.

The easiest way to get them out is with pliers.

removing diffusers

— We disassemble the accelerator pump.

Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the four screws securing its cover. We remove it along with the diaphragm and return spring. If the parts are difficult to separate, you can try to separate them with a knife.

— We disassemble the economizer of power modes.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the carburetor cover to the carburetor body. We remove it, as well as the diaphragm and spring. Using a slotted screwdriver, unscrew the economizer nozzle and remove it. We do not touch the economizer valve unless necessary.

economizer elements of power modes of carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex

— Remove the screw for adjusting the “amount” of the fuel mixture.

Using a slotted screwdriver, we disconnect the wire contact from the screw tip. We unscrew the screw and remove it and the spring located on it. Using a slotted screwdriver, unscrew the screw of the plastic wire holder and remove the wire from the carburetor body.

removing the screw for adjusting the “amount” of the fuel mixture from the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex

— Remove the throttle valve control sector.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the screw that secures it. We remove the bracket located on the sector, pry the sector with a screwdriver, and forcefully separate it from the throttle valve drive lever.

Removing the throttle control sector of the first chamber

— Use a thin slotted screwdriver to unscrew the “quality” screw of the fuel mixture from the channel in the carburetor body and grab it with tweezers and remove it from there.

Remove the rubber o-ring from it. Sometimes when the screw is removed, the ring remains in the carburetor body bore. From there you can get it out with an awl.

— Remove the accelerator pump drive cam from the throttle valve axis of the first chamber , unscrewing the nut securing it with a size 11 wrench. There is a special washer under the cam, remove that too.

remove the accelerator pump drive cam

— Remove the throttle valves of both carburetor chambers.

Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the screws securing them to the axles. If the screws do not come out, then their ends are riveted. We grind them down a little with a file.

removing the throttle valves of both chambers of the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex

— We take out the damper axes.

Remove the spring and plastic bushing from the axis of the first chamber. To remove the axle of the second chamber, pry it with a screwdriver and remove the axle lock washer.

removed throttle shafts

1. Carburetor body 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex.

2. Throttle valve axis of the first carburetor chamber.

3. Throttle axis of the second carburetor chamber.

4. Throttle valves of the first and second chambers.

5. Throttle valve mounting screws.

6. Return spring of the first chamber axis.

7. Plastic washer.

8. Metal washer.

9. Carburetor accelerator pump pressure cam.

10. Cam fastening nut UN.

11. Lock washer for the throttle valve axis of the first chamber.

The entire carburetor has been disassembled.

We assemble the Solex carburetor in the reverse order.

When tightening screw connections, do not apply much force to avoid deformation or damage to the thread.

Notes and additions

— Do not unnecessarily press out the air jet of the idle system from the carburetor cover, as well as the fuel intake pipes of the econostat and the transition system of the second chamber. Their mounting sockets can be damaged. The same applies to pressing out the air jet, the starting device jet, the power mode economizer valve, the fittings of the crankcase ventilation system and the vacuum intake to the vacuum corrector, and draining the fuel into the tank.

— If there is no need to remove the carburetor choke, do not remove it. When removing screws with cut threads, the threads in the axles can be damaged. In addition, when installing the damper back, it may shift relative to its previous position, which will lead to its incomplete opening or closing, which can lead to disruption of the carburetor and the impossibility of its normal adjustment.

— Everything written above also applies to the removal and installation of the throttle valves of both chambers. If you still have to remove them, mark their original position just in case.

Cars without an injector are still relevant on our roads. Moreover, their owners usually like to repair breakdowns themselves, which are already quite common with long service life. Among these breakdowns there are malfunctions of the most complex air and gasoline supply unit. Therefore, many car enthusiasts are faced with the question of how to repair a carburetor with their own hands.

Especially when engine interruptions begin, and it is not possible to configure such a complex unit. In practice, it fails, and for several reasons. Let's list them.

1. Due to the complexity of the channel design, the service life of the unit is short.
2. Regular use of bad gasoline negatively affects parts, channels, and surfaces of the assembly unit.
3. The entry of crankcase gases into the unit when engine components are worn out also has an effect.
4. The entry of dirt particles, for example through the air filter housing, can have an abrasive effect, which can cause defects on surfaces.

How to make repairs for a “classic”

Initially, we will discuss the carburetor repair instructions from 2107. For the work, we will need the following tools:

• screwdrivers;
• spanners;
• pliers;
• ruler.

Also find out about and.

We begin repairing the VAZ 2107 carburetor by dismantling the unit from the car. It is produced in the following sequence.

1. First of all, we dismantle the air filter housing together with the filter element by unscrewing the nuts.
2. After unscrewing the fasteners, disconnect the throttle cable and the choke cable.
3. We disconnect the crankcase gas exhaust hose.
4. Loosen the clamp and remove the fuel hose.
5. Disconnect the vacuum regulator hose.
6. Disconnect the pneumatic valve from the economizer.
7. Remove the microswitch from the terminals.
8. Using a screwdriver, press the tip away from the damper drive rod, and then remove the return spring.
9. We dismantle the entire assembly unit.

Now, to repair a carburetor from a VAZ 2107 with our own hands, we need to disassemble it, replace the defective parts with new spare parts (they are sometimes sold in the form of a special repair kit for repairing VAZ 2105 - 2107), and we may also have to process the filler plane. We will describe how to do all this.

1. We dismantle the three-arm lever, spring and rod.
2. We remove the cover, as well as the housing from the throttle valves. Replace the gasket if necessary.
3. Carefully dismantle the float by pulling out the axle.
4. We unscrew the fuel needle valve, as well as the fuel jets from the float chamber. If necessary, we replace parts.
5. We unscrew the fuel nozzle of the idle system. If necessary, we replace it.
6. After unscrewing the accelerator pump bolt, remove the pump cover, diaphragm and spring. These parts can also be replaced.
7. We take out the diffusers that worked above the dampers.
8. Unscrew the screw for the amount of mixture.
9. We wash all disassembled metal parts in acetone.
10. We apply the edge of the ruler to the plane of the upper body, which is connected to another plane of the body for fastening the dampers. Checking the curvature. By the way, if before this it was not possible to properly adjust the stable idle speed, the reason for this could be precisely this curvature, which causes air leaks. If necessary, we process the plane with an emery wheel manually, without an electric drive of the wheel, after first removing the adapter tubes from the plane. We perform this operation extremely carefully.
11. We assemble it in the reverse order, just like installing it on a car.

Let us add that repairing a carburetor from a VAZ 2106 is done in exactly the same way, since the unit is the same, under the DAAZ 2107 brand. Generally speaking, repairing a VAZ 2105 is done in the same way, because again the brand of the unit is the same.

Differences for front-wheel drive

Now let’s look at the features of the process when it is necessary to repair a VAZ 2109 carburetor.


With the front-wheel drive Lada, a unit called “Solex” was used, somewhat improved compared to the DAAZ 2107. Its removal from the car is carried out according to the already described scenario. Let's see what differences there are from the above manuals when disassembling and repairing a carburetor from a VAZ 2109. The same tools are needed. We move point by point in the same way and look at the differences.

1. Removing the lever.
2. The cover and housing from the throttle valves are removed in the same way as the previous instructions.
3. The float chamber here is arranged in a similar way - let's disassemble it.
4. We unscrew the similar fuel jets plus the needle valve.
5. The fuel jet of the idle system is definitely replaced here with a solenoid valve; we unscrew the valve with a wrench. We then install a new one instead - this is desirable.
6. The accelerator pump is disassembled in a similar way, its parts, especially the diaphragm, are replaced with new ones.
7. We remove the diffusers.
8. The mixture quantity screw is of a different type here; we also dismantle it.
9. We wash parts that are not worn out in acetone.
10. If necessary, we process the plane of the upper body according to the above recommendations.
11. We do the assembly, moving back step by step, this also applies to installation on the car.

As you can see, the instructions differ little from those given earlier. Here it must be added that when repairing a carburetor, most often it is necessary to replace the jets, since due to their small size, coupled with the strict requirements for their operation, the life of these parts is short.

In addition, it is important to know that on the “nines” they actually installed a carburetor with brand 2108, so repairing a carburetor from a VAZ 2108 is carried out exactly according to the instructions given. In addition, the “eight” and “nine” modifications have the same unit, but modified, with slightly different clearances. Therefore, repairs on 21083 are done in the same way, but when making adjustments they are guided by slightly different gap values. Their values ​​should be taken from the technical documentation. The same goes for repairs on 21099.

Settings must be made after installation.

Something about cost and non-repairability

Of course, not everyone can repair such a complex mechanism as a carburetor. Many car enthusiasts would rather resort to the services of car services. Let's see how much money they have to shell out. Here are the average data for major cities of the Russian Federation.

City	Price
Moscow	2500 rub.
St. Petersburg	2500 rub.
Ekaterinburg	1800 rub.
Samara	1700 rub.
Krasnodar	1800 rub.

These prices are indicated approximately for the repair of a carburetor type 2108. The cost is not small, however, it is approximately two times lower than purchasing a new unit. Although sometimes you can’t do without a purchase. After all, there may be cases when repairs and adjustments will not help the carburetor.

For example, the processing of curved planes, which was discussed above, may be useless due to the general so-called “fatigue” of the metal. It is not uncommon for threaded holes for jets to become worn out. In addition, the combination of many minor defects in the unit can persuade the owner to buy a new one.

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1. 5
   Moscow, 2nd Perova Polya passage, 9
2. 5
   Moscow, Kashirskoe highway, 67с5
3. 5
   Dydyldino village, Dydyldino village, 54
4. 5
   Vidnoye, Shkolnaya street, 51
5. 5
   Mytishchi, Yaroslavskoe highway, 115
6. 5
   Moscow, Sosnovaya Alley, 4с3
7. 5
   Zelenograd, Panfilova street, 28B
8. 5
   Moscow, Varshavskoe highway, 45
9. 5
   Lyubertsy, Yuzhnaya street, 25Ac2
10. 5
    Mytishchi, 1st Rupasovsky Lane, 6k6
11. 5
    Moscow, Aviatorov street, 13с6
12. 5
    Moscow, Vrachebny proezd, 3
13. 5
    Moscow, Starovatutinsky proezd, 10с2
14. 5
    Moscow, Nizhnie Polya street, 29с16
15. 5
    Moscow, Michurinsky prospect, 31k7
16. 5
    Mytishchi, Novomytishchisky prospect, vl5
17. 5
    Balashikha, microdistrict Zheleznodorozhny, Prigorodnaya street, 131
18. 5
    Balashikha, Prigorodnaya street, 131 to Auto
19. 5
    Moscow, Prichalny proezd, 8с17
20. 5
    Balashikha, Sovetskaya street, 50
21. 5
    Moscow, Varshavskoe highway, 170G, Box No. 30
22. 5
    Moscow, Fergana street, 13с1
23. 5
    Korolev, Pionerskaya street, 1k1
24. 5
    Shcherbinka, Simferopol highway, 16
25. 5
    Moscow, Varshavskoe highway, 56
26. 5
    Shcherbinka, Lyublinskaya street, 7A
27. 5
    Moscow, Shosseyny proezd, 10k1
28. 5
    Balashikha, Prigorodnaya street, 131
29. 5
    Moscow, Dubninskaya street, 83
30. 5
    Balashikha, Avtozavodskaya street, 50A
31. 5
    Balashikha, Ryabinovaya street, 3с3
32. 5
    Moscow region, Barvikha village, Podushkinskoe highway, 41
33. 5
    Milkovo village
34. 5
    Moscow, Gorbunova street, 12k2s2
35. 5
    Moscow, Sadovniki street, 11Ak1
36. 5
    Mytishchi, Strelkovaya street, Box 88
37. 5
    Moscow, Ostapovsky proezd, 6с1
38. 5
    Balashikha, Nosovikhinskoe highway, 26
39. 5
    Balashikha, Keramicheskaya street, 2A
40. 5
    Moscow, Festivalnaya street, 50с1
41. 5
    Moscow, Polyarnaya street, 39
42. 5
    Moscow, Tashkentskaya street, 30с2
43. 5
    Odintsovo district, Odintsovo, Molodezhnaya street, 14k1
44. 5
    Moscow, Profsoyuznaya street, 145
45. 5
    Balashikha, Lenin Avenue, 73
46. 5
    Moscow, Varshavskoe highway, 265/90
47. 5
    Kotelniki, Industrial Zone Silikat Street, 9/1
48. 5
    Moscow, Novoostapovskaya street, 6Ас12
49. 5
    Moscow, Koshtoyants street, 22
50. 5
    Moscow, Ozernaya street, 46k2

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VAZ carburetor repair in Moscow - prices

VAZ 2108 1996, carburetor repair

Sasha: The spark plugs are flooded and the car won’t start

• Bring it in, we'll figure it out.
• Repair from 1000 rub.
• Good afternoon.
  Most likely the switch.
  Need to watch.
  You can bring it to Veshniye Vody, 4, building 48.
  Let's do it.
• Good afternoon, dear Client. We are glad that you contacted FIT Service about this issue! Your request has been processed, and we are ready to provide all the services that interest you. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that before performing any work on the car, we recommend that you diagnose all components and identify only what really needs repair or replacement, this will allow you to save money and time. We remind you that we provide a 1-year warranty on all spare parts purchased and installed from us. Please tell us your phone number so that we can reserve a date and time convenient for you. There is also the option to sign up on our website yourself and receive an additional 3% discount. We are also always happy to receive your phone call. Looking forward to cooperation, a team of FIT Service professionals
• No mixture ignition, engine diagnostics needed, come

• VAZ 2107 2006, carburetor repair

  Alexey: We need to clean the carburetor

  • Good afternoon
    We do not deal with carburetor cars. Best regards, AutoHERMES group of companies!

• VAZ 2104 1998, carburetor repair

  Denis: gasoline flows into the manifold and overflows

  • Good afternoon. The cost of diagnostics is 620 rubles. Cost of repairs after diagnosis as agreed.
  • Hello Denis, come to us, we will help you solve your problem.
  • Denis: Please write the address
  • Panfilova Street 28B, behind the centurion, or behind the Iridium
  • Good afternoon Come, let's figure it out...
  • Good afternoon
    

• VAZ 2109 1996, carburetor repair

  Nikita: You need to adjust the carburetor well so that you can drive quickly and not consume too much fuel.

  • Good afternoon. First, we suggest you do a diagnostic of your car. The cost of diagnostics is 650 rubles.
  • Good afternoon. Can. Call.
  • You are setting two mutually exclusive conditions.
    Carburetor engine. Driving fast = high consumption. If you want sports performance from the "nine", then this is an expensive and not very necessary pleasure.
    And if the engine simply doesn’t want to work normally because of the carburetor, then there are plenty of reasons. Come, we'll cure you.

• VAZ 2115 1999, carburetor repair

  Yusif: it works at low speed and often stalls

  • Good afternoon, dear Client. We are glad that you contacted FIT Service about this issue! Your request has been processed, and we are ready to provide all the services that interest you. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that before performing any work on the car, we recommend that you diagnose all components and identify only what really needs repair or replacement, this will allow you to save money and time. We remind you that we provide a 1-year warranty on all spare parts purchased and installed from us. Please tell us your phone number so that we can reserve a date and time convenient for you. There is also the option to sign up on our website yourself and receive an additional 3% discount. We are also always happy to receive your phone call. Looking forward to cooperation, a team of FIT Service professionals.
  • 20 years old car... what do you want?
    there can be many reasons.

• Andrey: adjusting the fuel mixture with the carburetor, preparing for technical inspection.

  • We do not do carburetor repairs or adjustments, I advise you to contact Mikhail, he works near a spare parts store on Khabarovskaya Street, Gazelle is parked there (on a backup opposite the traffic police post), he will definitely help you and do everything efficiently.
  • Andrey: Thank you.
  • Hello, dear Andrey!
    Thank you for your interest in the AutoHERMES company!

    The entrance cost of diagnostics for your VAZ 2106 1995 car will be 2,500 rubles, depending on the complexity of the work, the cost may increase.
    The cost of work to obtain a diagnostic card will be 720 rubles.
    Have documents with you: the owner’s civil passport, registration certificate.
    Fire extinguisher, warning triangle, windshield without chips or cracks, lighting fixtures should all be on.

    We will try to make you a favorable offer and will be glad to see you in our company.
    We invite you to visit our dealership center "LADA AutoHERMES", located at the address: Moscow, Entuziastov Highway 59.
    To ensure a guaranteed visit to our dealership on a day and time convenient for you, we suggest you use the service of pre-registration for service by calling the general telephone number of the AutoHERMES company.

  • Do they exist

VAZ 2104 2001, carburetor repair

Salavat: How much does carburetor repair cost?

• Sorry we can't help
• Sorry we can't help
• Good afternoon
  Our Company does not carry out this work. Best regards, AutoHERMES group of companies!

• VAZ Oka 2003, carburetor repair

  Andrey: Carburetor repair, ignition adjustment

  • Good afternoon, dear client. We are glad that you contacted FIT Service about this issue! Your request has been processed, and we are ready to provide all the services that interest you. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that before performing any work on the car, we recommend that you diagnose all components and identify only what really needs repair or replacement, this will allow you to save money and time. We remind you that we provide a 1-year warranty on all spare parts purchased and installed from us. Please tell us your phone number so that we can reserve a date and time convenient for you. There is also the option to sign up on our website yourself and receive an additional 3% discount. We are also always happy to receive your phone call. Looking forward to cooperation, a team of FIT Service professionals.

• VAZ 2106 1995, carburetor repair

  Kirill: carburetor adjustment

  • We do not deal with carburetors.
  • Good afternoon, Kirill, unfortunately, we do not carry out such work, we do not have the equipment.
  • Kirill, hello!

    From 500 to 1500 rubles
    Call me, tell me what you have, I’ll give you a more accurate price

    My name is Maxim
    Car service center on Vavilova Street 21

  • Good afternoon To clarify the possibility and cost of performing the work, call our acceptance specialist
    Please note that prices may differ from those shown on the website. The final cost is calculated individually and depends on the condition of the car, additional work and additional components.
    And also visit our website and VK group for more information
    https://xn----7sbbi1a3brl.xn--p1ai/

VAZ 2108 1997, carburetor repair

Andrey: Carburetor adjustment

Instructions

Next, check the level in the float chamber. The absence of fuel or its insufficient level indicates contamination of the float chamber cover. Rinse and blow out the valve. It should move freely. Just like the float itself. To adjust the float, remove the carburetor cap and gasket and turn it over. If the float has moved to the side relative to the imprint of the chamber walls (it should remain on the gasket), center the float by bending the tongue. If the float is damaged or becomes heavier than intended, replace it.

Set the desired fuel level using the folded tab that adjusts the fuel level. At the same time, bend the float movement limiter to adjust the valve needle travel. Seal any holes that appear in the float with gasoline-resistant glue. The carburetor starting device can be automatic or semi-automatic, which does not need to be flushed. Or it can be simple, which needs to be washed with gasoline or acetone and blown with air.

Remove the float chamber cover and clean the channels and jets with compressed air, and then rinse them with gasoline or acetone. After removing the air filter housing, unscrew the idle air system emulsion jet housing. Sometimes you have to disconnect the wire going to it to do this. If a tarry substance forms on the jets, clean them of this substance with a sharp wooden tool dipped in gasoline or acetone. Do not use metal tools - they will damage the jets. Check the aperture. If it is worn out, replace it.

Check all carburetor connections. Leaky places where air is sucked in can be detected by soap suds. A window will appear in the foam where the air is leaking. Leaky places where fuel leaks are detected by traces of gasoline leaks and traces of soot. Wipe the location of the fuel leak dry to more accurately detect the location of the leak. Tighten the carburetor mounting nuts - this will help deal with most leaks. Tighten the nuts smoothly, avoiding distortions of the flange. If any leaks are not eliminated, replace the gasket at the location of the leak or suction.

Also wash the accelerator pump with acetone or gasoline and blow with compressed air. Check the ease of movement of the ball in the atomizer and the diaphragm and lever parts. Remove jams. Check the tightness of the gaskets and seals. Replace faulty parts. Check for damage to the economizer diaphragm. The total length of its pusher must be no less than the specified length. Replace the diaphragm if necessary.