Some motorists believe that modern cars do not need increased factory protection, others claim that when driving on our roads without wheel arch protection, after a couple of years you run the risk of finding traces of rust. This dispute has been around for many years. But, ultimately, each car owner decides for himself what to do. Let's try to look at the problem from the point of view of physics.
Why do you need wheel arch protection?
From the first day of operation, any car is exposed to destructive factors, such as precipitation, seasonal temperature changes, poor road surface condition, accidental or deliberate wrong actions of the driver. The influence of these factors on the body and accelerates the aging process of the vehicle and its gradual destruction. The wheel arches take the first blow. They suffer not so much from water and mud, snow and ice, but from the blows of gravel and sand flying from under the wheels. Such a gravel-sandblast attack is a serious problem for the bodywork.
She calls:
- damage to the paintwork of the edges of the wheel arches;
In the hidden cavities of body parts from dirt and sand mixed with aggressive anti-icing agents, and also increases the likelihood of damage to the factory and additional anti-corrosion coating.
Minimal protective equipment against such lesions, as a rule, is installed on the car at the factory, in particular, body pockets are covered with shields. Unfortunately, this option does not provide full protection of the wheel arches and can only be considered as temporary. There are several ways to additionally protect the wheel arches of a car:
- plastic fenders;
Liquid fenders;
Processing with special material;
Protection of the edges of the wheel arches and sills with an armor film.
Consider the advantages and disadvantages of each option.
Advantages and disadvantages of arch protection
Aluminum lockers
Fender liners, which were popular during the Soviet era, were made of aluminum and galvanized steel. In addition to their main purpose - protecting the wheel arch, they have a number of disadvantages, including:
- the rubber seal that framed the locker erased the protective coatings of the wheel arch over time, exposing it to corrosion.
Unprotected side surfaces.
Fast-breaking materials - steel and aluminum.
Unsafe use (could burst while driving, creating an emergency).
When deformed, metal lockers could tear out fasteners and damage the body.
Over time, metal fender liner became a thing of the past and they were replaced by plastic lockers.
Plastic lockers
This type of protection has been very popular for many years. Lockers, or lockers, are specially molded plastic casings that are made both for domestic car models and for most foreign cars common in the CIS countries. They are made of high-quality environmentally friendly low-pressure polyethylene (HDPE) of a special brand. This is an elastic wear-resistant material that best suits the realities of domestic roads and is characterized by stable performance even at extreme temperatures.
The undoubted advantages of using plastic wheel arch liners are:
- reliable protection of the car body from the sandblasting effect and the negative impact of aggressive anti-icing agents;
Protection of the anti-corrosion coating applied to the wheel arches;
Durability, high strength and preservation of the initial shape;
Stability of physical and mechanical characteristics in the most difficult climatic conditions (operating temperature range from -50° to +50° С).
Many motorists consider their fastening in wheel arches with self-tapping screws to be a serious drawback of plastic wheel arch liners, as this, in their opinion, is fraught with corrosion damage in places where additional holes are drilled. This is not entirely true. With professional installation, the attachment points are treated with anticorrosive, and only galvanized self-tapping screws are used, which reduces the risk of corrosion to zero. Moreover, these measures are rather preventive, since the manufacturers make all the technological holes coinciding with the regular attachment points in the wheel arch of the car model for which these fender liner are intended. For each car model, the corresponding fender liner model should be used.
Preparations with the conditional name "liquid wheel arch liners" are in the product range of almost all manufacturers of anti-corrosion materials. Let's take Mercasol 4 as an example. It contains granular glass, thanks to which the preparation has an extremely high resistance to external mechanical influences. In addition, the material improves the noise and thermal insulation of the car. The technology of using "liquid fender liner" is simple: the drug is applied to a clean surface of the wheel arch with a brush or spatula.
After drying, it is recommended to apply anticorrosive. The main advantage of "liquid fender liner" is the versatility of use - the composition can be applied to the wheel arches of any configuration, regardless of the age and condition of the car. If there are pockets of corrosion on the wheel arches, it is imperative to carry out preparatory work, that is, to clean and prime the affected areas. The disadvantages of "liquid wheel arch liners" include a relatively short estimated service life of two years, after which the coating needs to be updated. True, in practice, "liquid fender liner" regularly serve an average of up to four years.
Mercasol Sound Deadening
This is a noise-absorbing mastic based on rubber and polymers, which simultaneously performs the functions of an anti-gravel coating, as well as a sealant. Before applying the composition, the surface to be treated must be well dried and cleaned of grease and dirt. The sound-absorbing mastic is best applied with a spray gun with an adjustable nozzle, or at a pressure of 3-6 bar, and only professional equipment should be used. Layer thickness - 0.7–1.5 mm. Mercasol Sound Deadening has two drawbacks: the first - the composition can only be applied to a surface that has not previously been treated with other preparations, the second - the application of the product is possible only under the conditions of a service equipped with special equipment.
Reservation film
As an additional anti-gravel protection of the body and, in particular, the edges of the wheel arches, an armor film can be used. Many foreign automakers, even in the process of assembling cars, provide for the protection of the most vulnerable parts of the body and body kit with an armor film: thresholds, aprons and bumpers, headlights and lanterns. But, as a rule, very small sections of the machine are glued on the factory conveyor. Meanwhile, with the help of an armoring film, it is possible to protect both the edges of the wheel arches and the hood, as well as to completely glue the bumpers and sills.
One of the most famous - armoring films Ricochet and Llumar.
The films differ in thickness, which determines the places for their application. A film with a thickness of 0.15 mm is recommended to be used to protect painted surfaces of a car: fenders and lower parts of doors, roof edges above the windshield, rear-view mirrors. The same list of protected surfaces, with the exception of rear-view mirrors, is also recommended for 0.3 mm thick film. Films 0.5 mm thick provide a higher level of protection, but they are less flexible.
Usually they are used to armor the hood of a car, fenders and headlights. A 1 mm thick film allows you to reliably protect surfaces that are exposed to the most severe destructive effects of sand and gravel: headlights, lanterns, wheel arch edges, fenders. The main advantage of using an armor film is its invisibility on the protected area.. The disadvantage is the need to contact only specialists, both during installation and removal of protection.
Anticorrosive- a protective agent against the formation of rust. Earlier we already, now we will touch on this topic in more detail.
Before applying anti-corrosion compounds, it is imperative to remove rust from any metal surface being treated. Typically, an anti-corrosion compound is used to prevent the formation of rust on a car.
In order to save money, you can make anticorrosive with your own hands, or you can buy it ready-made at a car service. At home, the remedy is effective, but its preparation takes a lot of time. When working with a self-produced anticorrosive, you should follow the safety rules and instructions for treating a car from corrosion, and we will talk about choosing a ready-made anticorrosive a little lower.
Types and features of anticorrosive
Anti-corrosion for cars can be made from an aggressive chemical composition that can damage the paintwork of the car. Depending on this, it is necessary to select the components of the solution in such a way that they safely eliminate corrosive deposits without damaging the coating.
Anticorrosive is applied to wheel arches, the bottom of the car, welding spots, and the trunk lid. Each anticorrosive composition contains particles that provide good adhesion. The protective layer covers the metal and protects it from the effects of temperature extremes:
- The bottom of the car is treated with a water-repellent composition, since condensation forms in these places.
- In places of welding seams and loops, an anticorrosive agent with especially pronounced mechanically stable properties is applied. Since these areas are the most exposed to use, they wear out quickly. In addition to the protective composition, you can add anti-gravel, which will serve as a reliable shield against stones and fine dirt. Applying anti-gravity with your own hands is a fairly simple task.
What anticorrosive agent is better to treat the car with? Bitumen and wax are usually used as anticorrosive components. Such a base is ideally combined with zinc, bronze, various types of rust retarders and material hardeners. There are anticorrosive agents based on paraffin and polymers with the addition of rubber, ebonite, silicone and even plastic.
The main feature of anticorrosive is the possibility of unlimited application of the composition to any car parts. A similar principle applies when painting and polishing a car. It all depends on how caring the car owner is. If you correctly apply the product to all elements, there will be no noticeable trace of rust.
The choice of anticorrosive for cars
Anticorrosive aerosol is considered the most ineffective agent against the formation of rust. Its use will only slightly strengthen the metal coating. Anticorrosive in spray cans is used for small rusty spots.
In order for the car to be reliably protected from oxidation, it is necessary to select compositions for specific parts: internal or external. For example, for the treatment of hidden cavities, anticorrosive is selected, which repels moisture well and allows air to pass through.
The outer surface must be covered with a protective agent that is resistant to mechanical stress: impacts of small stones, sand and dirt. If the composition is purchased from the manufacturer, then it is important to check the availability of the standard number, batch, storage period and conditions, instructions for safe work.
The video below provides an overview of anticorrosives and describes in sufficient detail how to choose an anticorrosive for your purposes and not overpay.
Do-it-yourself anti-corrosion
Rust treatment of a car is carried out in specialized car services, but this is also possible at home. The service station has all the necessary tools and components for high-quality manufacturing and application of anticorrosive.
Before you do the anti-corrosion treatment of the car yourself, you need to prepare tools and compositions for the protective mixture:
- "Cordon" is a vibration-absorbing mass necessary for treating a car from rust.
- "Body-950" - 400 ml of soundproofing solution is enough.
- Anticorrosive "Movil-NN" - 2.7 liters.
- Degreaser (acetone or white spirit).
- Cannon fat brown.
- Any protective agent resistant to mechanical damage.
- Adhesive sealant or any similar material for filling cracks in metal structures.
- Plasticine - 2 packs.
These ingredients are used to create a homemade anticorrosive agent, but for the workflow you will also need different brushes, a drill, napkins, a spray gun, screwdrivers (to remove particularly resistant rust), and protective gloves. Do-it-yourself anticorrosive sprayer can harm the skin of the hands, so it is important to ensure their reliable protection.
Preparing a car for anticorrosive
Preparatory work includes the following items:
- Removal of insulation, soundproofing materials so that they do not interfere with processing.
- Dismantling wipers.
- Complete trunk cleaning.
- Protection of the car interior from anticorrosive: it is necessary to put on tight covers on the seats and the pedal, through which the liquid slippery substance cannot penetrate.
After these works, the car must be thoroughly washed with warm water. The cleaner the car is, the better the anticorrosive treatment will be. Wash with pressure, directing a jet of water to especially dirty places. Then wash the entire surface of the car with soapy water, including hard-to-reach places.
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In the end, you need to rinse the car well. Processing should be started only after the car has completely dried, not earlier. All drainage holes must be perfectly clean.
To provide access to the internal cavities of the car, you must use a drill. Drill diameter - 13.5 mm.
“It is advisable to make holes in the body where there are already technological ones, and only on a single-layer sheet. In places with corrosion, drilling is undesirable.
Anticorrosive: manufacturing and application
How to do anti-corrosion treatment? From a clean car, you need to remove the wheels and arched plastic protection, and only then proceed to applying several layers of the future anti-corrosion coating:
- The under-wheel area must be treated with a degreaser, and then with a soundproofing compound. 3-4 layers are enough with an interlayer interval, the main thing is to observe the complete drying of the previous sound insulator.
- Now you need to mix cannon fat, plasticine and "Cordon" in a metal container. The mixture must be heated in a water bath - placed in a container of boiling water. As soon as the composition turns black, it is necessary to turn off the fire. The resulting mixture must be applied with a brush on the bottom of the car. The layer must be thick.
- Anticorrosive agent "Movil-NN" needs to process all the screws of those parts that were removed. You can mount them in place only after 3 hours have elapsed from the moment the bottom of the car was smeared.
In order for do-it-yourself anticorrosive treatment to be successful, you need to follow several important rules:
- preparation for processing is just as important a part as applying anticorrosive;
- the composition of the protective mixture should include only professional products and the above ingredients; it is undesirable to use components based on the slander of acquaintances;
- conditions during processing must match the mode that is usually set in car services.
Treatment of internal cavities
How to treat a car with anticorrosive? For these purposes, you will need an anti-corrosion agent and a spray gun with a flexible nozzle. The nozzle of the sprayer should be inserted deep into the cavity until it stops. Pulling the device back, you need to spray the protective composition without stopping.
The thinner the anticorrosive, the more often it should be sprayed. If anticorrosive drops begin to seep out of the hole, then the work has been done successfully. In the absence of such a phenomenon, it is necessary to clean the cavity with a metal nozzle, and then repeat the procedure again.
Helpful Hints:
- in the absence of technological holes, it is necessary to make them yourself, but very competently and in a minimum amount;
- if there are a large number of mechanical devices, electric drives in the car, it is advisable to remove the trim completely;
- if processing is carried out in the internal cavities of the door, it is necessary to spray the material without removing the upholstery;
Anticorrosive on the bottom and arches of the car
When processing the hood and engine compartment, cover the generator and radiator, otherwise the slippery anticorrosive material that has fallen on them will cause the engine to heat up. Do-it-yourself anticorrosive of the bottom of the car must be applied to the hood cover and welding seams.
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In the trunk, it is important not to miss the hidden seams. Here you can experiment with different nozzles in order to best clean rusted parts. A thin layer of anticorrosive should be applied to the bottom of the trunk and the rear walls of the lamps to prevent rust between the contacts. Processing the arches of the car with your own hands and the bottom is as follows:
First you need to remove the fenders. Then, on the bottom with a flexible nozzle, process:
- thresholds;
- crossbars;
- amplifiers;
- eyelets, inside the front suspension, levers;
- suspension springs;
- welding seams;
- fasteners, details;
- ball bearings;
- the inner part of the flanging;
- bottom surface.
In order for the material to be used sparingly, you can slightly increase the temperature of the anticorrosive to 30 degrees.
Car interior anticorrosive treatment
Work inside the machine can only be carried out after all foreign objects have been removed and the seats are securely covered. The fixation areas of the seat crossbars must be processed from the inside and outside.
The first - through the technological holes, the second - through the welds. The doorway is also subject to oxidation, so it is necessary to apply anticorrosive to the lower seams and seals. To do this, it is necessary to dismantle the overhead guard.
In its place, there will be technological holes leading to the internal parts of the car. In the same way, you need to insert the spray gun all the way and spray anticorrosive. When working with internal cavities, it is important not to exaggerate the amount of solution, otherwise it can get inside and stain the entire interior of the car.
Do-it-yourself car anticorrosive is a viscous, oily liquid and, moreover, difficult to wash. Once on the pedals, it will break the grip of the foot and the surface of the device.
Door processing
The internal cavities of the doors must be treated with anticorrosive. It will not harm electrical contacts. The only thing is that if the nozzle is inaccurately inserted into the technological holes, it is possible to touch important elements and damage them.
The atomizer must be inserted slowly, without touching structural details: servos, wiring, audio systems. In the case when many mechanisms are located in the inner cavity of the door, it is possible to carry out processing using a short nozzle at the bottom of the door. A few rules when working with anticorrosive in the car door:
- Providing access through 2 holes: next to the outer panel (above the lock) and at the bottom of the end 5 cm from the extreme level.
- Using a long nozzle, it is necessary to process the welding seam under the window opening.
- Using a short nozzle, spray the material on the rear end of the door, lock and internal seams.
- If anticorrosive is applied to large vehicles, such as a pickup truck, van, then a hole should be made in the middle of the end. If the internal cavities are deep and more than 15 cm from the end of the nozzle, then another nozzle of a greater length must be inserted. The fact is that oil drops of anticorrosive do not pass further than 15 cm, but dust settles, which is not as effective as large drops;
- The pressure of the material in the spray gun when processing the internal cavities of the doors must be at least 60 atm., Air - 7 atm.
Anticorrosive: effectiveness or futility
It all depends on the quality of the components used, adherence to the rules of spraying and work with repair equipment, the condition of the car and its operating conditions. In case of violation of the integrity of the coating of the machine, it is better to start restoration immediately to avoid metal oxidation.
Any anti-corrosion agent serves no more than 3 years, however, even a few months after treatment, “red” spots may appear. The main reason for their spread is unpleasant weather conditions and high humidity.
In the hot season, it is better not to use wax-based anticorrosives, because at high temperatures it begins to melt and spread over the car. Compounds based on bitumen, which cannot withstand severe frosts, behave in the opposite way.
In order for anticorrosive treatment to be really effective, you must not skip external operations:
- Using a special nozzle with a 45-degree bend, you need to go through the emblems, seals, mirrors, handles and locks.
Upon completion of the repair work, it is necessary to clean the car windows contaminated with stains, mount the wipers back, remove the protective covers and nozzles from the pedals, rinse the handles and locks throughout the car.
If the overlay is dirty, it must be wiped well. Residual work - checking the cleanliness of the car interior is an important process, since excess anticorrosive on the surface of pedals, levers, door handles can lead to serious consequences.
Preferably use car shampoo to remove grease stains, and after washing, rinse the car well. After treatment, the car must be constantly checked for the formation of new rust in order to remove minor corrosion spots in time.
Video on working with anticorrosive
1. Bottom anti-corrosion treatment:
2. Car anti-corrosion treatment (two parts):
Anti-corrosion treatment of the bottom is the key to a long life of your body. Compared to other parts of the body, the wheel arches and the bottom are most susceptible to corrosion, since these parts of the body are most often in contact with water, sand, dirt and other factors that negatively affect the metal.
Today, many body shops and service stations provide car body services, but I believe that paying for something that you can easily do yourself is a waste of money, the prerogative of the rich, who are easier to give a few hundred dollars than to mess around with all this. If you are one of those, my today's article will be useless for you, because in it I will tell you how to do it yourself body anti-corrosion treatment and prolong the life of your steel pet.
So, before you start, you need to get everything you need, that is, buy or get materials and stock up on tools. Of the tools you will need:
1. Hard paint brush;
2. Metal brush;
3. Drill with a wire nozzle.
Materials:
1. Thinner 646;
2. Acetone;
3. Phosphoric acid (if you don't have one, use an alternative - a rust converter);
4. Special primer for the bottom (zinc-filled or GF-021);
5. Mastic.
For example, in my practice I used such mastics as: Shield-M, Barrier, Cordon. Why exactly these, because they are rubber-filled, in other words, they contain rubber components.
If everything is available, you can proceed to the preparatory work.
1. Before starting processing, it is necessary to thoroughly wash the processing sites, that is, the bottom and arches, for this I propose to use a powerful pressure of water, the well-known Karcher will be able to provide you with such.
5. Remove the front fenders as well.
Now the actual anti-corrosion treatment itself.
1. Carefully inspect the factory coating, noticing any delamination, be sure to remove it with an electric drill and a wire nozzle. If there are places subject to corrosion, clean them to metal.
2. The next step is surface treatment with phosphoric acid.
3. After that, it is necessary to rinse everything with water and dry with a warm jet of air. Also pay attention to the ends of the thresholds, most often the paint is peeled off there.
4. After cleaning the places, make a primer and let dry for a day.
5. Now, using a brush, apply the first layer of mastic, the thickness of the layer should not exceed 0.5 mm.
6. Again, let dry for about 4 hours, then apply a second layer, after another 4 hours, apply a third. In order for the mastic to become liquid, it must be heated, or it can be diluted with kerosene with gasoline.
It will not be superfluous to apply on the bottom, as well as the inside of the wings - Movil. In addition, I recommend installing fender liner and processing the lower part of the thresholds with an anti-gravel coating, which can be bought in special cylinders.
And in conclusion, the correct implementation of all the above steps in compliance with the technology, you and your car can not be afraid of rust or any other corrosion-related ones.
The question of how to process the wheel arches of a car sounds no less relevant than, for example, the problem of choosing the car itself. It is no secret that some cars are subjected to a minimized anti-corrosion treatment of the body during factory assembly.
What about used cars? After all, it is not known for certain how prudent the former owner was? And who wants to have the purchased car rotted in a few seasons? Therefore, it is necessary to carry out additional processing, both of the entire body and of the wheel arches in particular, as the place most susceptible to mechanical deformations and other incidents associated with damage to the body coating.
How to process the wheel arches of a car and how to do this work correctly? There are several ways to do it yourself. Let's start with the most important.
Anti-corrosion
Any metal part, sooner or later, can begin to rust. Moreover, wheel arches, which take on mechanical damage from small stones and sand while driving. And in winter, it contributes to damage and failure of coatings - a mixture that we sprinkle on roads in a slippery time. Therefore, anti-gravel treatment of the wheel arches of the car is one of the most optimal ways out of the situation.
Of course, you can contact the service for a solution. But you can try to do a similar procedure yourself, saving a certain amount of money. And besides, you will be as sure as possible that everything is done according to the rules, because you yourself processed the details.
Operating procedure
Attention! It is advisable to carry out these works in warm weather, in a well-ventilated box or in an open area protected from the wind.
We remove the wheel. We raise the car, for greater convenience, you need to tilt it a little more to the side. If there is no lift, use jacks and props. But make it as convenient as possible to get to the processing sites.
Wheel arches may be dirty. Therefore, under the pressure of water, we wash off the growths and carefully (you can use a brush) clean the strata.
When it dries, we inspect the internal coatings for any flaws and rust. We process the foci with a rust converter. We clean the rust, if any, with a metal brush attached to an electric drill (you can do it manually, but it will take much more time and effort). We finally grind these places with a nozzle with sandpaper using the same drill. Attention! When carrying out work, use safety goggles that protect your eyes from dust and pieces of rust flying in different directions.
Again we process the centers. Wait a bit and rinse with plenty of water. After that, the wheel arches are thoroughly dried (for this purpose, you can use a fan heater or hair dryer).
Then lubricate the surfaces with a nitro solvent. And then - with masking tape we paste over those surfaces on which anti-gravity should not fall. We wrap the pendant with polyethylene for the same reasons.
We apply the primer in several layers, allowing each of them to dry. You can take it in a balloon, or you can take it from a can - then we work with a wide brush.
We apply mastic on primed surfaces (also in several layers, allowing each layer to dry). We check that the anti-gravel road covers all the required planes. After finishing work, dry thoroughly. We remove the polyethylene protection and adhesive tape. Put the wheel back and repeat the procedure on the other side of the car.
Liquid soundproofing
Problems with improving sound insulation exist, probably, in many cars. But if sheet noise-absorbing material is usually used for these purposes on flat planes, then here, on wheel arches, it can no longer be used effectively to the full. How to process the wheel arches of a car? Liquid noise insulation of these spare parts is recommended for use.
What does she give? It has been noticed that part of the road noise enters the car through unprotected wheel arches, preventing sound gourmets from listening to high-quality audio systems. Therefore, it is recommended to use liquid insulation in order to reduce the amount and quality of noise.
There are two types of it: applied to the primer and one that is applied directly to the cleaned surface.
Liquid soundproofing for cars is made on the basis of rubber with various additives. They provide the coating with resistance to mechanical damage and temperature extremes. The procedure for applying insulation to the surface of the wheel arches from the inside is approximately the same as when using anti-corrosion (see above).
Many owners of Premasey and not only are familiar with this problem. Like any disease, it is easier and cheaper to treat it in the initial stage, preventing the appearance of through holes. Otherwise, a transplant of a donor organ in the form of a repair lining of the wing will be required. Let's assume that everything is not so bad with us and looks something like this:True, this is a 2005 Corolla. - European, but the essence is the same. Let's see what can be done, if there is a desire, a warm room and a compressor with a spray gun, but there is no money or it's a pity))). If anyone is not interested in the secrets of body repair, you can immediately go to the end, where you will learn how to protect the arch from corrosion.
So, we take a drill with a wire disc and clean off the swollen paint, we carefully look so that there is no rust left under the paint, otherwise these places will rise later:You can then clean especially rusty places with a grinder, but be careful - the metal is weakened and it is easy to make a hole. We clean the transition of paint to metal with a sandpaper so that there is no sharp difference in height. The transition is processed correctly if successive layers of primer and paint are visible:
The skin for rooting the process can first be taken coarser - grain 80, then go to 120 and finish 240, going over the area with each subsequent abrasive a little further than the previous one. At the same time, keep in mind that the risk is coarser than 220 with soil, so do not climb far. The rest of the surface is matted with sandpaper 600. It is more convenient to work with water with a fine sandpaper so that the abrasive does not clog, so after that you need to dry the professional well. with a hairdryer, especially corrosion cavities, you can heat up to 60-80g., The paint is not afraid of this. We wipe the surface with a napkin with a degreaser and putty. The main mistake of beginners when puttying is that they smear with a thick layer in the hope of later cutting off the excess with sandpaper. It will be correct to apply successively 3-4 layers, gradually approaching the shape of the surface, it should turn out something like this:
If through holes are nevertheless found out, all is not lost. Small holes are covered with putty with fiberglass, large holes - with fiberglass with the same putty. Putty on top with ordinary putty. If the metal is well dried and then cover these places on the inside of the wing with anticorrosive, so that moisture does not get in, then it will walk for many years.
We sand the putty. Since we don’t use bourgeois grinders and planers today, we take a not very clumsy wooden block, wrap it with 120 sandpaper and rub the putty, washing off the waste with a sponge and water. For curved surfaces, instead of a wooden one, we take a rubber bar. You can first take the skin to take it rougher, the same 80-ku, but very carefully, changing it then to 120, which we then change to the 240th. The meaning of this whole dance with abrasiveness is that the bumps from puttying are removed with a rough sandpaper (80-120), and the risks from it are 240. Here lies the mistake of many craftsmen, or maybe their conscious action: quickly make the form a rough abrasive and then fill the resulting risk with a thick layer of soil. The result of this is the same - after 1-2 months, subsidence of the soil and the appearance of an angry client at the door. The putty is hygroscopic, so we dry it well with a hairdryer (not higher than 50-60g!), wipe it with a degreaser, cover the car with a film, paste over with newspapers and primer in two layers:On top of the ground with a thin layer, apply a developing layer of any dark paint, conveniently from a can. We rub the dried soil with sandpaper 600-800 with water, the developing layer will show if there are defects. The rest of the part is matted with water with sandpaper 1000 and then with scotchbright. The result is a smooth matte surface:
Paste, degrease, wipe with a sticky cloth from dust and can be painted.
A few words about colors. I do not advise you to consider spray cans in principle. And not only because the color does not match, such enamel does not protect the lower layers from moisture well. Therefore, it is better to take paint on the selection of car enamels. I will reveal one of the most secret secrets: no colorist will match the color 100%. As it is considered in narrow circles, hitting the color by 70-80% depends on the colorist, the rest - on the art of the painter. He will make a test paint, if necessary, the paint is tinted. A good painter will never paint parts end-to-end, a transition is made to the old paint, so often instead of one part you have to paint two, or even three. In this case, I had to paint the entire fender, make the transition to the door and bumper:As a result, there will be no difference in tone even under artificial lighting. Have you met, probably, cars that look normal during the day, and in the evening under a lamp, as if the parts are from different cars?
We protect against corrosion.
Arch corrosion begins with damage to the edge by small pebbles flying from the wheel. So that after the first winter the rust does not climb again, this place must be protected. We buy rubber bands to protect the lower edge of the doors for the VAZ-08. Trimming off the excess:
We well coat the edge of the wing with anticorrosive on both sides and put an elastic band on it, once again we coat it from the inside of the wing so that water does not get under the elastic band. Outside, we remove the excess with gasoline, we get this beauty:
What materials to use? I will say this, there are no frankly bad materials now, those that are more expensive allow you to reduce repair time, it is more convenient to work with them, and the quality mainly depends on diligence and skill. A typical representative of budget materials is NOVOL. Subject to technology, it provides quite sufficient quality:
Here is such a repair, nothing particularly complicated, go for it!