What do you need to know when choosing an oil for BMW engines? What oil is suitable for a particular engine? It is these two questions most of all worry the owners of the BMW who have not defined with the choice of oil while approaching its planned replacement. First of all, it should be remembered that motor oils for BMW are divided into certified (admitted) and special (Special Oil). Moreover, according to the Specifications of the automaker, for gasoline modifications BMW 1,3,4,5,6,7 series is allowed to use only those engine oils that have passed special tests and received official approval of BMW. For diesel versions of the same models, universal engine oils are allowed, subject to compliance with the documentation requirements for each car model (using ACEA classification). Motor oil approved BMW on the packaging should be specified the corresponding tolerance. Its absence indicates the lack of certification of BMW, respectively its application is not recommended.

Oils, certified BMW got a name Longlife.. These oils meet the standards of the ACEA: A3 / B3 specification and have been tested in BMW to the ability to provide an enlarged maintenance interval (OilService). Application of these oils is allowed both in summer and in winter.

Since 2001, BMW began to produce engines of a new generation, which resulted in tightening the requirements for oil properties. As a result, oils with a long service life were divided into four categories:

& NBSP & NBSP & NBSP1. Longlife-01. - oils that meet the complete list of BMW requirements for technical fluids and recommended for use in the N62 / N42 engines. In addition, these oils are recommended for use in the old BMW engines (produced until February 2000), except S62 (E39), CNG, M43.

& NBSP & NBSP & NBSP2. Longlife-01 Fe (Fuel Economy) - oils with the same standards as LongLife-01, but with a lower viscosity, thereby achieving a decrease in fuel consumption. The use of these oils is allowed only in those engines, the design features of which allow the use of low viscosity oil.

& NBSP & NBSP & NBSP3. Longlife-98. (The initial name is Longlife) - oils that meet the standards with an increased maintenance interval (Oilservice) introduced in 1998. The use of these oils is recommended for BMW with engines equipped with forced ignition (except S54, N42, as well as S62 (E39) produced until February 2000).

& NBSP & NBSP & NBSP4. Longlife-04. - This tolerance was introduced for motor oils that have passed a hollow test cycle in BMW. Oils with this tolerance can be used in modern BMW motors and is not recommended for cars released until 2004.

Category special Oil (Special Oil) As well as certified complies with the standards of the ACEA Specification: A3 / B3 and is an earlier version of the BMW Longlife Categories. The use of special oils is recommended for old BMW models with a replacement interval up to 15,000 kilometers (according to the OilService Regulations). Special oils are all-season. The exceptions are the oils with the SAE 10W-X viscosity class - its use is allowed under the ambient temperature not lower than 20 ° C.

It should be remembered that only motor oils are recommended for the BMW engines that meet the above recommendations. The presence in the title of oils of such formulations as "fully synthetic (lung-person) engine oil", etc., are not evidence of the possibility of their use in BMW engines and can only be considered as a common name. The decisive factor in determining the combustion of oil can only be an indication of the admission from BMW.

In conclusion, a few words about oils for new cars and engines after major repairs. And if one is unlikely to produce an independent oil replacement outside the official service in new cars, then for the owners of BMW with engines after the "Capitals" it will not prevent that the so-called "trigger" oils do not apply in BMW motors. Therefore, when replacing the oil in engines after major repairs (as well as for new engines), the use of only the above certified oils is recommended.

Engines / Oils	Longlife-01.	Longlife-01Fe	Longlife-98.	Specialist. Oil	SAE 10W-60	M610	Specialist. Acea.
M43TU.	+		+
M43 / CNG.						+
M47	+		+	+			+
M47TU.	+		+	+			+
M47TU after 03/2003	+
M51 (E34 / 36) after 09/1995	+		+	+
M52TU.	+		+
M54.	+		+ (from 08/2001)
M57	+		+	+			+
M57TU.	+
M57TU after 03/2003	+
M62LEV.	+		+
M67	+		+	+			+
M67 (E65)	+
M73 (E31) after 09/1997	+		+	+
M73 (E38) 09/1997 - 08/1998	+		+	+

According to the maintenance instructions for BMW E39, the oil replacement should be carried out either once a year or after running 15 thousand kilometers for gasoline engines and every 10 thousand for diesel. Such recommendations are valid there, abroad. In the manual there is a small attribution: if the car is operated in difficult conditions, then the replacement of engine oil must be carried out twice as often. That is, for gasoline power units every 7-8 thousand, and for a diesel engine - every 5,000. When driving on our fuel and on our roads, it is possible to say that the car in the post-Soviet exploits is operated in heavy road conditions. So, when it is necessary to change the oil in the engine BMW E39 figured out, now we will try to understand what and where to pour.

What oil to fill in E39?

As you know, motor oils are mainly classified on the basis and viscosity. You can divide by type of base: mineral and synthetic. There are semi-synthetic oils. Viscosity is regulated by different types of additives and chemical additives. If you rose on the Internet and read posts on all sorts of forums, then a full porridge will be in my head. Some advise only synthetic, other semi-synthetic, the third insists only on mineral oil, especially if a car with a mileage of more than 100 thousand. And the discussions and recommendations of various manufacturers can generally make the entire thought process in a dead end.

Let's figure out. Mineral oils for BMW engines are better not to use. After all, the oil task consists not only in the lubrication of the part of the power unit, but also in cooling, preventing corrosion, removing wear products. "Mineralka" quickly loses its characteristics, so it is not able to protect the motor and ensure its normal operation. Mineral base oil is cheaper, and this is the main argument of many car owners. But if you want your car to serve for a long time and properly pour synthetic and semi-synthetic oils. The presence of special additives in them will extend the service life of the motor.

To make it easier to make a choice, below shows the viscosity table of motor oils from the pages of the BMW instruction manual. The main criterion for choosing the climate in which the car is operated.

The main criterion when choosing an oil is a climate in which the car is operated

It is logical to pour into the motor to the oil that recommends the car manufacturer. But not always such recommendations are specific. The main thing is that the oil responds to the ACEA: A3 / B3 class (CCMC-G5 / PD2) or SJ / CD API. A lot of manufacturers got into this list. It has the name Special Oils, it is updated every year. These are motor oils that recommend using BMW AG. After examining the list, it can be concluded that for BMW E39 it will suit the oil of well-known brands. It is important that the oil be produced at the factory, and not disengaged in the basement of the neighboring house. Buy oil only from verified dealers of official brands.

The main thing is that the oil responds to the ACEA class: A3 / B3 (CCMC-G5 / PD2) or API SJ / CD

If you do not trust anyone, you can order original oil from BMW. Its original code 83 21 9 407 782. This is the code of a liter canister. To completely replace oil in the engine, it is necessary 6.5-7.5 liters. (depends on the engine).

Replacing motor oil in E39 do it yourself

To replace the engine oil, the following tools and materials will be needed:

1. Rafting to remove spilled oil.
2. Low capacity for spent oil, about 8 liters volume.
3. Set of precipitated or end keys.
4. Narrow slotted screwdriver.
5. Cross-shaped screwdriver.
6. Outlet knife.
7. Oil filter set: Filtering element, oil seal under the housing cover, copper washer for a drain plug seal. Original number: 11 42 7 512 300.

Set of oil filter

The kit does not include 2 glands of the case of the housing cover for the oil filter. It is desirable to order them separately and replace. Catalog number 11 42 1 744 001.

1. Motor oil with a BMW tolerance LL-98 or LL-01, such as Valvoline SYN Power SAE 5W-50 or Valvoline Top Gard SAE 10W-40.

You can use a filter from another manufacturer. For example, the cross-code of the filter for BMW E39 according to the directory of the company MANN-FILTER: HU 925 / 4X.

The procedure for performing oil replacement

Change the oil better on a pit or overpass. Oil filter is located in a special case between the radiator and the engine. The motor should not be cold, however, when using synthetic oils, this requirement is not important. "Synthetics" retains good fluidity and at +10 degrees Celsius.

Oil filter is located in a special case between the radiator and the engine

1. We unscrew the filter housing cover using the end head. We remove it and disconnect the filter element from it.
2. We remove old glands from the cover of the cover, cutting them with a knife.
3. We establish new sealing rings, pre-lubricating the rod with new oil.
4. I wipe the oil filter body with a cooked rag.
5. Install a new filter element in the housing.
6. We screw the lid, carefully tighten it with the key.
7. Open the neck on the engine for the oil bay.
8. If the motor compartment is protected from below, we open the dirt-based panel with a cross-shaped screwdriver. We fold it down.
9. Weaken the plum plug on the engine block.

Weaken the plum plug on the engine block

1. We substitute the cooked container and unscrew the plug completely. We merge the exhaust oil.
2. We replace the sealing washer on the plug and tighten it back into the engine block. Tighten the key.
3. We pour about six liters of new engine oil through the oil filler neck. Close the neck.
4. Propema measuring the oil level. It must be at the MAX mark or even a little higher.
5. We start the engine and observe an emergency indicator of oil pressure. It should light up and go out in a few seconds. If the indicator does not wear, then the motor should be drowning and after 10-15 seconds again start. The indicator should go out. Give me to work the engine for a few minutes, drown it.
6. After 15-20 minutes, check the oil level. If necessary, put it up to the maximum mark.

Video example of oil replacement

1. The manufacturer does not recommend flushing the engine when replacing the oil. If you use high-quality motor oil, you do not need to wash the motor. Apply flushing is recommended only when moving from mineral water to semi-synthetic or synthetic oils.
2. Do not change the brand of engine oil or to attach the oil of another company. Different manufacturers use various additives that can "vouch." As a result, you can fly into a large amount when repairing the power unit.

Facilities and consumables required for replacement of engine oil:

1. Key 11 9 240. It is used to remove the oil filter cover.
2. Motor oil. very important. For BMW 3 engines, 2.0 liters will need 4.25 liters. Oil. For a volume of 3.0 liters - 6.5 liters. Oil.

Basic instructions for replacing engine oil:

Before starting the oil replacement procedure, warm the engine!

	1. Using the key 11 9 240, remove the oil filter cover. Additional key characteristics: diameter? dm, the size of the face is 86 mm., the number of faces 16. Suitable for engines: N40, N42, N45, N46, N52.
	2. We are waiting for the oil from the filter to the pancake pallet. (Motor oil can be removed in 2 ways: through the hole of the measuring probe intended for measuring the oil level in the engine, with an oil pump, which can be found at the gas station or in the service, or merge from the crankcase).
	3. Extract / Place the filter element in directions indicated by the arrow. Install new sealing rings (1-2) of a circular cross section. Lubricate rings (1-2) butter.
	4. Unscrew the plug (1) of the oil crankcase. Merge oil. Then replace the plug sealing ring. Pour new engine oil.

5. Run the motor. We are waiting until the engine oil pressure control light turns off. Then, if:

but). On the engine is provided by oil dipstick:

• Mustle the power unit, let it stand for about 5 minutes. You can check the oil level;

b). On the engine is not provided by oil dipstick:

• Park the car on a flat surface;
• Wait until the engine is warming up to the operating temperature, and let it work on turns in the range of 1000-1500 rpm for 3 minutes;
• Look at the level of engine oil on devices or on the control display;
• If necessary, fragile oil.

6. Reset the counter maintenance (oil replacement).

The debut of the 53rd series of superpopular car from BMW took place in 1999 at the exhibition in Detroit. Until 2004, the average-sized sports SUV was produced with a full drive distributing the thrust between the front and rear wheels in the ratio of 62 to 38. Since 2004, the crossover has been equipped with a XDRIVE system that allows you to transfer all the traction from one axis to another. Now the model could be in a few seconds to become both anterior and rear-wheel drive. Technical data X5 in the E53 lineer inherited from its predecessor E39 (line of motors and electronics), but a lot of things borrowed from British Land Rover.

Being a premium car, in the period from 1999 to 2006, it was published by different power units: two 3-liter diesel engines (184 and 218 hp) and several gasoline engines. The latter included motors on 3.0 (231 hp), 4.4 (286 hp), 4.6 (340 hp) and 4.8 (355 hp) liters. The most charged versions of the E53 family got the Alpina installations and made the creation of Bavarians one of the fastest SUV on the planet. The minimum time on overclocking up to 100 km / h takes only 6.1 seconds from the crossover (for comparison - it is only more for a second, which gives Porsche Cayenne Turbo). As for servicing this line of motors, then about the types of oil and how much pouring in which of the engines is told on.

In 2004, BMW X5 was held his first restyling, as a result of which, in addition to the emergence of the already mentioned XDRIVE system, its appearance was updated. The changes affected the shape of the radiator lattice, the hood, optics. In addition, the car began to supply adaptive xenon, which enabled the driver to "look" over the turn. And the engine was already corrected by 4.4 liters - it became a little more powerful (320 hp against 286 hp). In this form, the model was made until 2006, when a second generation with the E70 serial number was released on shift.

Generation E53 (1999 - 2006)

Engine BMW M54B30 231 hp

• Oil types (viscosity): 5W-30, 5W-40
• How many oil liters in the engine (total volume): 6.5 liters.
• When changing the oil: 10,000

Engine BMW M62B44 / M62TUB44 286 hp

• What engine oil is poured from the plant (original): Synthetic 5W30
• Types of oil (by viscosity): 0W-30, 0W-40, 5W-30, 5W-40
• How many oil liters in the engine (total volume): 7.5 liters.
• Oil consumption per 1000 km.: Up to 1000 ml.
• When to change the oil: 7000-10000

The most important role that is given to the oil and the engine in the car, is familiar to everyone and each lover to charge - decrease the friction between the driving details and the protection of this part from wear. It is for this purpose that the replacement of fluid in the vehicle engine needs a special approach and control. Slightly earlier we already placed on the official page on the Internet an article about changing the oil, where general principles told in detail and also placed useful tips that you could apply in practice. This time we will dwell on the most important points of the described actions used by tools and frequent errors when replacing the engine oil.

If you are going to replace fluid in engines of machines such as VAZ, Renault, Toyota, Nissan, Ford, Chevrolet and others, the replacement in the above stamps is practically no different from each other, but some items will differ. For example, the required viscosity, the frequency of replacement on gasoline and diesel cars, the volume of filling oil into the motor or the location of the oil filter. Remember that it also needs to be changed when we replace the liquid. For this, it will still be superfluous to carefully examine the guide to the actions for a certain vehicle brand.

Tools and materials required for the implementation of actions:

First, you need to arm a key. It will help unscrew the oil filter. Secondly, stock combined key, lantern, overpass. Do not forget to grab funnels, rubber gloves, rags and an empty vessel where the waste fluid is merged. As for the materials, you will need the desired oil volume, a new oil filter, in some cases a new plug hole is needed or a sealing washer.

Below is a list of frequently asked questions and, accordingly, answers to them.

What is the frequency of changing oil?

As a rule, the recommended replacement gap is equal to ten thousand kilometers of run, but this is when the gasoline engine. For diesel, it is equal to seven thousand kilometers. However, there are cases when the manufacturer calls the interval of fifteen-twenty thousand kilometers on some new brands, which proves the reliability and authority of the creators of the car.

However, specialists in the field of mechanical engineering recommend still not to risk and follow the main interval of fluid replacement, that is, to shift every 10,000 thousand kilometers, or to navigate the weather. The frequent product of the fluid change positively affects the engine service time.

If you use a vehicle in difficult weather conditions - frost, wet climate, air dustiness, in this case it will be necessary to reduce the fluid replacement interval by twenty-five - thirty percent.

What amount of oil is needed for replacement?

Most car owners are always interested in: what volume of fluid is needed to change the engine? However, no one will give you a clear answer to this question. The reason lies in the fact that each car has its own motor that requires a certain amount of oil.

For example, machines with a motor 1.2-1.8 liters require three and a half to four liters of fluid. Therefore, you must certainly use the comments on servicing a particular car. In the absence of information, specialists are recommended to pour about three liters at once, after which, controlling the level of the dipstick, slowly topping the missing amount to the optimal level.

Controlling the level and fill of the liquid directly during its operation, not under what conditions it is impossible.

Foreign models of cars, which have a motor volume of 2-2.4 liters, pour no more than four and a half liters. Motors with three or five liters need five to six and a half liters of lubrication.

Check with oil probe must be made at least once every seven days. Thus, you do not lower the fluid level below, which is very devastable for the proper functioning of the motor.

Do I need to change the oil filter along with the replacement of the liquid?

If you fill fresh liquid into the engine, then the filter is required. The service center is an inseparable process, as they say, in the order of things, and included in the price. Since if the engine is operated with a contaminated filter - this is considered equivalent to the fact that it is completely without it, since the filter design provides transmission of the lubricating fluid through the filter element when it is scored.

The period of functioning of the desired filter is equalized by the oil service life. That is, as you understand, the conclusion suggests itself by itself - when you replace the oil, then change the filter itself. Then you will not allow the opening of the airproof valve and enter the polluted oil liquid to rubbing parts. The fact that it is open You will not know, there will be no emergency pressure light bulb. Plus, the filter remains grams one hundred and fifty old fluid, and it is not recommended to interfere.

When the filter is changed, remember that it is necessary to lubricate the sealing ring only with fresh oil, and twist it in place only by hand without any foreign objects (refers to gasoline machines). Most of the specialists advise to fill a certain amount of liquid inward, in order to exclude the oil starvation of the motor at the first start.

Do I need to wash the engine?

Washing the engine is the procedure for cleansing parts located inside the engine and its inner walls from the layers of oil combustion products.

There are five well-known methods for washing the engine and now we will tell you:

1. Cleansing that will be carried out manually on the disassembled engine.
2. A known method for pumping diesel engines through an engine (similarly purify contract engines);
3. Using washing oil before pouring new engine oil. This is a simple mineral oil without additives and most often, as a rule, is used when moving from one oil to another.
4. Flushing that will take you five minutes of time. A certain remedy is poured into the old oil in front of the drain, and chasing the system for five minutes, and then the contents must be merged. This method is the most aggressive.
5. Cleaning with simple engine oil, inexpensive. The main idea is to make the engine approximately five hundred kilometers, then merge it and only after pour what is needed. Such a method of cleansing is pretty touching and does not harm the motor, but you have to lay a round sum on it. This method is considered the most meaningless.

The list of very frequently asked questions of owners of the car includes the question of whether it is necessary to wash the engine if replacing the oil? Most of the car owners advise more often to replace. Otherwise, you, moreover, to no avail throw money on the wind, do not get the right effect. To your information, flushing often negatively affects old engines, as the layers are also written, and they, in turn, can both score channels and eliminate the coke, which serves as a seal.

We will tell, in what kind of cases is necessary washing:

The flushing is required when moving to a new liquid brand, and as depending on their species (mineral water, synthetics and others) and on the degree of their viscosity.

1. After you have purchased a vehicle, used. Because you do not have an idea, or you have not enough data about the model used by the previous owner of the lubricant, you do not know what periodicity to replace it. Thus, you will also not know the status of the internal state of the engine.
2. If the car was operated in heavy and difficult conditions, to better wash the remaining wear products.
3. As a result of complete disassembly of the motor due to overhaul.

Remember that if you adhere to the rules and tips on the use of oil, then the deterioration of the engine status will occur very, very slowly. Does the engine cleaning in other cases, depends entirely on the owner of the vehicle, while using the advice of specialists, friends or count only on their knowledge.

Basic replacement actions on their own. You will surely succeed! Follow our recommendations below:

1. To prepare the car to the upcoming procedure - changing the oil, you will need to warm up the engine to the working temperature and put on such a place where there would be access to the car from below. For example, the overpass or something like that.
2. Carefully inspect the bottom of the car and find the drain hole and oil filter. Alsa arise the necessary number of key set.
3. Clean these places, that is, near the drain plug and filter.
4. Install a blank vessel where the exhaust oil will be drained. In your hands you have to have a lantern, keys and dry rags.
5. Unscrew the drain plug and the filter gently, let the fluid steadple completely. Now boldly twist the cork and put a new filter element. Do not forget to lubricate the gum-seal if you pour oil into the filter.
6. Pour the new oil in the neck of the engine in the desired quantity. No more no less.
7. Be sure to check the level using the probe.
8. Finally, remove traces of the procedure.

What is the express is oil? And we will tell you:

There are two most important methods with which you change the engine fluid:

The first one is traditional. Unscrew the drain plug.

The second is express replacement. It is carried out at a special service with the support of a certain vacuum apparatus.

Most vehicle owners are mainly carrying out a replacement in an old manner, the grandfather method so to speak, while under the machine and unscrewing the drain plug. However, new brands of cars are designed for express replacement. What is an express replacement, ask you?

Frankly, the express replacement of engine oil is considered pretty-such a quick replacement method. You will not have to lie under the machine in a horizontal position to unscrew the drain hole. The special apparatus, the liquid is sucks with the engine through the screwing hole of the level of the vacuum method. And in time is not long. As well as in the usual method, the engine must be warm up to a certain operating temperature, after which the hose of the vacuum apparatus is squocated into the hole of the oil probe inward to the maximum mark, and the end will touch the bottom of the pallet. Fast pumping is carried out. The fluid flows into the vessel of the pumping unit due to the formation of reduced pressure.

This method most fears because there is a myth that tells that a considerable amount of old liquid remains in the pallet. However, as practice shows, oil remains even less than after an ordinary drain method. The lack still exists. And this is what, as a result of a quick change of fluid, a vacuum method will not be allowed to finally get rid of metal dust, or burned residues accumulating at the bottom of the pallet during long-term use. For this reason, the express replacement is not desirable for systematic operation, or during the engine washing procedure. There is a positive side. It saves some of your time and money, because the price of express replacement of motor fluid will cost you no more than five hundred rubles. Also, it will not be necessary to replace the sealing washer of the drain bolt, as they advise on some cars.

Comments and errors when replacing

• The choice of oil is not the corresponding brand recommended by the creator.
• Replaces the change of liquid later, referring to the high quality of the fluid.
• The exploitation of additives for the engine is dispelled with the composition of the liquid.
• Choose oil using the rule: the more expensive cost, the better the product.
• Invalidly screwed drain plug, or oil filter. Not a rare error of car owners becomes an excessive force when tightening, setting the old sealing washer.
• Implementation of the change of oil on an ambulance hand and an incorrect sequence of actions.
• The final check of the level of the dipstream is not carried out on the cold, but on the hot engine. Control on hot, 10 minutes after stopping the engine and on a flat surface.

We hope we helped you, and our works were not in vain. Thanks for attention!