Methods for heating oil in the engine sump. How to warm up the oil in the engine: available methods and solutions Why is it necessary to warm up the engine oil in the engine before starting

Good afternoon, our dear readers! The economical operation of the engine is largely influenced by the quality and composition of its lubricant, as we have already seen from our previous publications. Operating conditions are especially difficult in the winter season. In many cases, regardless of, we may need to heat the engine oil. What is it and how to use it correctly - we'll talk further.

How often in frosty weather we fail to start the engine of our car, or its start occurs after several attempts of the starter, which is accompanied by a strong discharge of the battery. It is especially difficult for those drivers whose cars spend the night in the open air, in yards, in parking lots. Diesel engines are subjected to the most difficult tests, since diesel fuel has the ability to thicken more than traditional gasoline.

At the same time, the oil pump is not able to immediately supply thickened lubricant to all parts of the power unit. It arrives at the most distant of them only after 2–3 minutes, and at this time their accelerated wear occurs, subsequently leading to repair. Therefore, the most optimal task will be to ensure the heating of the oil in the crankcase of the motor, and this can be done using any device powered by 12 volts.

Effective pre-heating is designed to provide special heaters, which are presented in a variety on the automotive market. These are heating devices that are installed in the same place where the drain plug is usually located, which we use when draining used oil. Their task is to heat the lubricant to the desired temperature and ensure its supply to various engine components. Thus, it is easier to start the motor and, at the same time, its wear is reduced.

Another useful feature is the fact that in this case the battery is recharged with a weak current, which makes it possible not only to warm it up, but also to restore the capacity. Such devices are quite simple and unpretentious in use and maintenance. They are durable and fit almost any brand of vehicle. If you periodically have problems with starting in winter from a battery, I recommend purchasing one of these devices.

What are electric heaters

There are various models of engine oil dilution heaters on the market, and this is one of their most important functions. Some of them can be equipped with a thermostat, the use of which will protect against overheating of the oil, since the thermostat will automatically turn off further heating of the oil in the crankcase when the required temperature is reached.

When installing, pay attention to the fact that the thermostat itself is located on the same side as the device in the engine oil pan. The equipment usually comes with a power cable about 1 meter long, which is protected from oil and overheating.

In no case do not forget that even such a harmless device that provides power and heating through a 12 V probe should not be left unattended for a long time. Despite freezing weather, such electric heaters can cause a fire and further fire.

The convenience of devices that are more complex from a technical point of view lies in the fact that they can not only warm up the lubricant, but also the coolant, preparing the engine for its usual and optimal operating conditions. The power unit needs at least a few minutes, and sometimes more, depending on the temperature outside. During this time, the oil pump will properly fill the entire system, warm up, as a result of which the start-up will become easy and safe.

Folk ways to thin the lubricant in frosty weather

What if there is no way to warm up the engine through the probe or the starting heater is out of order, or frost suddenly hits, and you were not ready for such a scenario? In this case, you can use any improvised means that can be found in the garage, at home, in the office. Heating must begin precisely from the area where the crankcase is located. In the old days, drivers effectively used blowtorches. This is the easiest way to make your lube thinner with your hands and in a short amount of time.

However, some fire safety rules should be followed. First of all, you need to understand how tight the lubrication system and power system are, along with all their elements, since both fuel and oil are flammable substances. It is important to observe a safe distance, which should be at least half a meter from an open source of flame to the oil pan. Another way to solve the problem is to drain the oil from the crankcase, then heat it up to 70–80 degrees and refill it through the neck of the cylinder block.

This method is still practiced by drivers of large-tonnage trucks. For them, a flexible heater that is inserted through the dipstick hole will not have the desired effect. Therefore, so often they install any household electric heater in the motor pan, which is connected to the electrical network through an extension cord. At the same time, their power should not exceed 0.5 kW in order to prevent overheating of the lubricant and deterioration of its performance.

How to warm up the oil in winter - we tried to answer this question to subscribers in today's publication. We hope that with the help of the information received, you will not have any difficulties this year and even in regions with the most severe climatic conditions. Do not forget to recommend us to your friends and acquaintances who are also interested in automotive topics. Until we meet again, friends!

Hi all. came on a visit to the Russian Federation. the new car was not so warm. it was decided to look for the option of preheating.
it's been over a month now. everything is wonderful. warms up. starts easily.
So, Hylax is not as warm as we would like. after the fat, which warmed up very quickly, Toyota Highlax warms up much longer, and yet has not seen the cold ...
there are no “boiler” options, only webasto or the like. It was decided to buy a silicone patch-heater in China. the seller gave a discount. The goods went for about two weeks. in an envelope.
what is it: orange plastic pad with 3M tape (468MP)
the agreed power was 400W. The thermo-relay was integrated at my request for 70 * s. double insulated power cable 1.1m long
I also asked for the size separately, beforehand with a ruler I figured out how best it would be to install
came to the conclusion that 200 by 100mm. The question is fundamental and for each car is individual.
photo from envelope
a power cord with a connector from the START heater was also ordered separately in the Russian Federation

Then, having gathered his thoughts, he chose a day
the whole installation took an hour and a half, of which an hour was spent on removing the protection and reinstalling this protection

Next, obligatory degreasing, I use anti-silicone and the sticker process itself - the main thing is to guess and not miss.
everything was done without a lift, the clearance of the car allows you to do this







Photos in a month. at the next 10tkm maintenance at the dealer.






Happy New Year to all)
after gluing, I warmed up what I pasted by plugging it into a power outlet, checked the adhesion and smeared it with a heat-resistant sealant just in case ... just in case.


I installed the power connector in the bumper and put it back together.




and of course in the process I checked the mode of operation
I don’t know for sure which thermo relay the manufacturer installed on this heating.
- the relay switches off when on the outer surface 110*s switches on for 42*s.
testing for an hour. everything is working.
the car warmed up much faster with this heating.
if warm air at the same outside temperature is turned on after about 15 minutes. now in 5 minutes.

Added after a month of operation. everything is fine, everything is stuck, it keeps well, it warms.

Good luck on the roads
I'll post a report when it gets colder.
summary
- everything suited me, I was ready to take this one for the price indicated on the site. Of all my friends, I am the first who took the risk.
previously used a boiler in the DEFA block on Navara, but alas, there are no boilers in the block on Hylax.
and lastly

The product was provided for writing a review by the store. The review is published in accordance with clause 18 of the Site Rules.

I plan to buy +25 Add to favorites Liked the review +24 +55

A few years ago I took exactly the same patch.

worked on Ur. now it was decided to put exactly the same on a new car. bought there.
characteristics
power - 500 W
size 100mm*200mm
voltage 220 volt
shutdown 70*s. inclusion 50*s

The process is similar to the past, except that the motor was not cold, but in MMC Pajero Sport-3. climb a little uncomfortable, warmed his fingers.
I’ll add right away, during the operation, several winters, there were no problems in Toyota, it works perfectly!
. Toyota is all in working condition and very happy. easy start, no oil starvation, etc.

(silicone patch with integrated heater, thermal relay switch-off range: +70*s reverse switch-on +50*s
product power 500W
glued on 3M adhesive tape, by the way real - heat-resistant.
double insulated wires
great quality, it's all one product.
Installation took about an hour.
additionally purchased


- ABRO tube of red sealant (50 rubles - 32 gr) - rather just for peace of mind))
- a connector in the bumper, see the photo costs 20 rubles ... ordered with a spring cover has not yet reached, installed the same with a cover, which was
- car corrugation 10 mm -1 meter ... (30 rubles) ... ties were in the household



The installation process is banal.
removed protection.
- wiped the installation site, anti-force with a pro-ir (remained after the coloring of the thresholds and arches), just above the power steering. you can crawl, but preferably in a cold car ... I burned my fingers))


- stuck a plaster - due to some cancer availability, you must first estimate, try on, with a piece of paper on tape not removed, mark with a pencil, it will be impossible to peel it off later!
stuck a patch, smeared Abro around the edges, pulled protection around the edges, fixed the corrugation with ties. brought to the radiator grille. all in the photo results. checked, it works. I didn’t shoot the temperature regimes, because it’s not the season ..) but everything works) I checked it.


the item was sent with some small, very small, discount but I put the item provided.
but the essence does not change. really good quality product

The product was provided for writing a review by the store. The review is published in accordance with clause 18 of the Site Rules.

I plan to buy +26 Add to favorites Liked the review +11

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Let's be honest: the manufacturer does not care about the maximum resource of the motor. The task is to ensure impeccability for the first three years, and then at least to the scrap. Judge at least according to official recommendations: change the lubricant every 15,000 km and move off immediately after starting the power plant. And the choice of equipment: a line and a salon lotion, not a word about the technical aspects. Meanwhile, it is winter outside the window, and our engine is not sweet.


The season of car horror stories is the first cold. TV programs broadcast about the consequences of driving in winter on summer tires and the effect of a cold start on the life of parts. With tires, everything is clear - immediately change to Velcro or spikes, and for the "summer" find out generally.

Drivers

It is clear that the interest in how to heat the oil in the engine before starting is not caused by empty talk. How else to perceive a lecture by a respected professor who compares 5 seconds of scrolling in -20 ° C with a three-digit mileage. The average equivalent is no less than 200 km. The dry theory does not specify specifically, in the city or on the highway, but the essence is clear - the oil system at the launch stage is not in rhythm.


The physics is simple: oil is a liquid, it thickens in the cold. Scientifically, as the temperature decreases, the low-temperature viscosity increases. How much is not clear: thematic diagrams of automotive lubricant manufacturers are kept secret. It is easier to teach information according to the SAE classification: the less details, the more convenient it is for marketers.

Soviet tests of mineral water bring clarity. Let's take the most liquid mineral oil M8. The temperature gradient is from room temperature to -5°C. The result is a tenfold deterioration in viscosity characteristics. Modern synthetics, of course, do not thicken so intensively, but the hint is taken.

For whom the theory is an empty argument, we present the facts. The thick oil composition prevents the crankshaft from spinning up quickly and is poorly pumped by the pump, which is why:

  1. The starter resource is reduced.
  2. Oil starvation occurs in the first minutes of operation.

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Universal advice is to study the section on technical fluids in the owner's manual for a particular vehicle. A table linking the viscosity of oils with the maximum temperatures of their operation will suggest that it would be nice to fill in something like 0W-40, 0W-30 for the winter.


The share of starting wear will decrease, but it is far from summer values. Yes, and not all automakers give the green light to the use of a super-fluid variety, but it’s not worth violating the instructions - lubrication will come and oil seals will flow. Hence the question - how can you warm up the oil in the engine in winter in pre-start mode.

Another option is not to let the oil composition cool down by the time of the next launch. It is obvious that after a forced stop for 15-30 minutes or after the “Start-Stop” system has been activated, the launch conditions are equivalent to summer ones. Almost all modern alarms are able to automatically start and turn off the engine. The function is referred to as auto start by engine temperature.

Freelance heating or how to heat the oil in the crankcase before starting in cold weather

Increased fuel consumption from frequent warm-ups is successfully forgotten when the mortal body is immersed in a warm cabin. Another concern is the neglected operation of the engine, you never know what can happen. Yes, and the neighbors on the first floor are not enthusiastic about the exhaust gases, and it’s not far from the conflict.

grandfather methods

A proven way to heat the oil is to heat the crankcase with an open fire. A blowtorch or a bundle of wood chips, neatly folded under the object of heating, will help to get a fire. Plus - no need to re-equip any system of the machine.

The old tricks are good - a vast saturated thermal field quickly warms up the liquid: 7-8 minutes at -20 ° C, and you can safely turn the crankshaft. There are few repulsive factors, but their weight is high:

  • Directing the same blowtorch to the desired location is difficult, and sometimes completely impossible due to the small clearance or mounted protection.
  • Open flames are associated with a high fire hazard, since they are concentrated near rubber and plastic parts.

Modern ways

Safe recipes for heating the oil in the crankcase before starting are based on obtaining heat from electric current. Where to get it from depends on the place where the car is stored: in a street parking, an autonomous power supply from a battery is preferable, in a garage you can be powered from a household network.

The electric heater is different from that used in , but similar to the glow plug, which is an integral part of the instantaneous coolant heater. Generally speaking, there are several schemes for electric oil heating:

  • External "warmer": a heating plate (220 V) is installed on the outer side of the lower engine cover.
  • Electric dipstick: a flexible element is temporarily integrated into the crankcase through the oil dipstick hole, which heats up when an electric current is passed through it from a standard battery (12 V).
  • Modified drain plug: instead of a regular plug, a part with a built-in heater (12 V) is mounted.
  • TEN: a tubular heating element (220V) is integrated into the crankcase.



The heating rate and the type of power supply are the main guidelines when choosing an idea. The best qualities among autonomous devices are shown by an electric probe. A 220 V heating element heats up the fastest, but its installation is fraught with difficulties.

Briefly about the main

An electric dipstick, a heated drain plug, a heating element and a heating plate - with these simple means, you can safely heat the oil inside the engine in winter before starting. In fact, you don’t need to invent anything - each of the four options is available for purchase on many trading platforms.

As far as power supply is concerned, there are no difficulties: a wire and a plug or a simple electrical circuit based on a relay and a toggle switch. Whether it is necessary is another question. The answer is short and recommendatory in nature: it is necessary, especially in cold weather -10°C.

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