(votes: 63, average: 4.29 out of 5)

The dream of our fathers and grandfathers is the Volga. Recently, my old friend visited us on his favorite GAZ 31105. Extraneous noise from the timing drive, as well as increased consumption and poor throttle response, sentences the timing chain. So, GAZ 31105, engine 406 - replacing the timing chain.

Let's make a reservation right away what we need: engine oil with a filter and a crankcase pan gasket, it is better that it be cork, high-temperature sealant, gray 999 from ABRO, kerosene and a metal brush for washing parts. I saw a clean engine only in the new Volga. It is not for nothing that they say: “If oil does not flow on the Volga, then it does not exist.” Another set of wrenches and sockets reinforced by 36, a hexagon by 6, a lot of rags, instant coffee and a few sausage sandwiches. As well as patience and a great desire to carry out this procedure on their own, since the temptation to entrust this to someone else is very great. After reading the article to the end, you will understand why.

Most importantly, this is a complete kit for repairing the gas distribution drive of ZMZ-405,406,409 engines - this is its official name. It must include the following ingredients:

1. Two chain tensioners.
2. Two chain tensioners.
3. Two drive chains, small and large. For ZMZ-406 70 and 90 links, for ZMZ-405 72 and 92 links.
4. Three chain guides.
5. Upper and lower chain cover gaskets, pump and hydraulic tensioner covers, as well as two noise-insulating ones.
6. Sprockets of crankshaft and camshaft, intermediate shaft leading and driven with fixing plate.

He looks like this.

And here is the patient.

Under the hood is really a ZMZ-406 engine.

Finished inspection, proceed to strength exercises

First, remove the engine protection and mudguard. Drain the antifreeze and oil from the engine. Remove the top radiator hose.

Disconnect all interfering pipes.

Set aside the wiring harness. We remember or sketch the location of the connectors on the ignition coils.

With a 12 head, we unscrew eight bolts in a circle holding the valve cover and remove the last one.

While the service belt is tensioned, loosen the three bolts on the 10th pump pulley.

We loosen the bolt by 13, the tension roller and unscrewing the bolt by 10 we loosen the tension of the belt of auxiliary units.

Remove the service belt, pulley and coolant pump pulley.

We unscrew the four screws of the upper timing cover and remove the latter.

We remove the generator together with a triangular plate.

We unscrew the bolt on 10 crankshaft position sensor.

We remove the sensor to the side, so as not to interfere.

With a 36 head for the pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft clockwise until the marks on the camshafts point to top dead center.

The mark on the intake camshaft should be at the top edge of the cylinder head.

Same for the exhaust camshaft.

We unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt, having previously locked the crankshaft. To do this, the assistant in the cabin turns on the fifth gear and presses the brake with all his might, and at this time, with a slight movement of the hand, using a meter pipe and a 36 head, we unscrew the bolt. We remove the crankshaft pulley, you will have to suffer, because it sits tightly on the shaft.

Loosen the clamps on the pump pipes.

With a 6 hexagon, unscrew the four screws from the front side of the pump and a 12 key one from the back side and remove the coolant pump.

We unscrew the two bolts of the cover of the upper hydraulic tensioner. Since the tensioner in a discharged state, it will put pressure on the cover, hold it so that it does not pop out.

We remove the cover and the hydraulic tensioner itself.

Likewise the bottom.

We unscrew six bolts for 14 amplifiers and remove it. Hidden under it were the oil pan nuts.

With a hexagon, we unscrew the remaining screws of the front timing cover (5 pieces), as well as everything that holds the oil pan (11 screws and 4 nuts).

The pallet goes down about two centimeters, the beam does not give further. But this is enough to pull out the old gasket and, remembering the kind words of the engineers from Gorkov, to clean the adjacent surfaces before installing a new gasket.

This is such a terrible picture before our eyes.

Now remove the lower timing cover.

We unscrew the screws of the upper damper with a hexagon and remove it.

Similarly with the second. It will come off with the chain.

On the camshafts there is a special turnkey square of 30, in order to be able to hold the shafts when unscrewing the sprocket bolt. We hold the shafts with a 30 key and unscrew the camshaft sprockets by 17.

We remove the camshaft sprockets and the chain with the damper.

Loosen the chain tensioner with a hex key and remove it. Likewise with the bottom.

We bend the edges of the locking plate and with a 12 key we unscrew the bolts securing the intermediate shaft sprocket. We remove it along with the chain. After that, unscrew the two bolts of the lower damper with a hexagon and remove it.

Remove the snap ring and crankshaft sprocket. In the photo, the ring is slightly shifted for clarity.

For this, a two-arm puller is best suited.

And here is the secret why we change the kit. If you look at the sprockets, you can immediately see the difference, so the old chain will not fit under the new sprockets and vice versa.

Now that everything that bothered us has been dismantled, you can wash all the removed parts and the cylinder block, at least from the front.

Starting assembly

We put on a new crankshaft sprocket and immediately set the mark.

Then we fasten the lower damper, tensioner and put a new chain.

We put the sprocket of the intermediate shaft, set the mark. We bend the edges of the locking plate. We put a chain on it and lubricate everything with new engine oil. The right branch of the chain must be taut.

We check again the coincidence of labels.

We put the upper chain on the intermediate shaft sprocket and put the damper. Lubricate everything with clean oil.

We install a tensioner.

Exhaust camshaft sprocket, so that the right branch is tensioned and the mark on the sprocket is at the level of the upper edge of the cylinder head. Same with the second camshaft.

We put the hydraulic tensioner and fasten the cover. We unscrew the plug and sharply pressing the hydraulic tensioner with a screwdriver, we ensure that it is discharged. Having discharged, he will push out the screwdriver, and pull the chain.

We put the upper damper and check all the marks again.

We carefully put the front cover, having previously lubricated the gaskets and all adjacent planes with sealants. Putting the cover on is not easy because you need to hold the tensioner and make sure that the marks do not go astray. We turn the crankshaft two turns and, if the valves do not meet the pistons and all the marks are in place, we put everything else in the reverse order of removal. Fill with oil, antifreeze and start the engine.

Video of installation and verification of timing marks ZMZ-406

Good video showing many interesting points. Good luck on the roads. No nail, no wand.

autogrm.ru

Diagnostics of the ignition control system and the engine of the Gazelle car

Cars of the Gazelle brand are the most popular and affordable truck in Russia designed to transport small loads. Since the number of such cars is becoming more and more, we should consider some of the nuances of the various Gazelle systems, for example, the microprocessor ignition system, which is installed on the 406 modification. In this case, we will consider the diagnosis of a car whose owner complains about jerks, pops and loss of power.

The power system, engine and ignition will be checked. Using a gas analyzer, the carburetor was checked, but no problems were found in the operation of the first and second chambers, cut-off, idling, and enrichment at idle. Next is the engine. The compression test did not reveal any violations, the indicators of 9.6 kg / cm2 for the 406 engine coincided with the norm, however, a slight deviation of 10% was detected during the second check, so the gas distribution phases were subjected to the next check. It turned out that pops and jerks were due to the fact that the upper chain jumped two teeth.

gas distribution system.

In the 406th modification, the engine looks like this: four valves are installed on each of the two exhaust and two intake cylinders, the right camshaft (front view) drives the exhaust, and the left camshaft drives the intake. Hydraulic valve clearance compensators from the camshaft cams allow you not to engage in maintenance and adjustment. The camshafts are driven from the crankshaft by two bush chains.

View of the correct assembly at TDC of the compression stroke at the position of the piston of the first cylinder of the camshaft drive:

1. The protrusion on the chain cover (M1) must coincide with the risk on the crankshaft sprocket (2), the horizontal marks (9) on the camshaft sprockets (10, 12) must coincide with the upper plane of the cylinder head.

2. The alignment mark (M2) on the cylinder block must correspond to the risk on the intermediate shaft sprocket.

The center of the twentieth tooth of the synchronization disk (3) must be at this position of the shafts strictly opposite the center of the core of the crankshaft position sensor (4). The synchronization disk (1) is a gear wheel, on which 58 cavities are located at a distance of 6 degrees from each other, two of which are missing for synchronization. The two missing cavities are the starting point for the number of teeth (15), with the numbering going in the reverse clockwise direction. However, the adjustment of the gas distribution system did not lead to the return of the former engine power.

Now let's take up the diagnosis of the ignition system. The forced idle economizer valve control in the sixteen-valve carburetor engine ZMZ - 4063 and ignition is provided by the MIKAS 5.4 microprocessor system. This system, which allows, depending on the operating conditions and operation of the engine, to realize the most optimal UOZ, it consists of wires with connectors, a control unit, a set of actuators and sensors. High specific readings of the engine without fear of cases of glow ignition and detonation are ensured by effective identification of the knock combustion control unit of each of the cylinders and the knock sensor. If the sensors are damaged, the unit immediately implements the emergency control mode. The crankshaft position sensor is an exception, since the engine cannot function without it.

Electronic control unit (ECU) Mikas 5.4

On the motor shield of the vehicle, a DBP is installed - an absolute air pressure sensor on the intake pipeline (model 0261230004 from Bosch), and is connected to the throttle space in the engine intake pipeline. The amount of air that enters the engine cylinders is calculated by the control unit from the measured value. This sensor looks like an electronic remote integrated device with a working chamber made of silicon and a special powder, which has exemplary pressure inside. The conductivity of sensitive semiconductor elements located inside the working chamber varies in direct proportion to its mechanical arrangement. The sensor is powered by a stabilized voltage of 5 V, and the output voltage is 0.4 ... .4.65 V and linearly depends on the measured pressure, which is from 0.2 to 1.05 atmospheres and is connected using a three-pin plug to the wiring harness. The change in the balance of the strain bridge is caused by the displacement of the membrane (i.e., the working chamber), since the resistors are connected in a bridge circuit. The signal processing electronic circuit, located on the same board as the sensing element, is connected to these resistors.

Absolute pressure sensor (MAP)

To determine the engine temperature, the car is equipped with a DTohl (coolant temperature sensor) models 19.328 or 40.5226, made in Russia. The unit controls the forced idle economizer valve and also corrects (UOZ) in accordance with the measured temperature value. The control system consists of an ignition coil, a forced idle economizer solenoid valve and a knock sensor. DTohl, installed on the outer shell of the thermostat of the cooling system, is connected to the harness using a two-pin connector.

Coolant temperature sensor (DTohl)

Opposite the crown of the toothed disk of the crankshaft pulley in the tide of the gas distribution mechanism chain cover, an induction type crankshaft position sensor (DPKV) model 23.3847 made in Russia, or model 0261210113 of the German company Bosch, is installed, which is connected by a flexible cable to a three-pin electric plug. This sensor has the form of a coil with a magnetic core, with a winding resistance of 880 to 900 ohms. To ensure optimal operation of the control system, a gap between the teeth of the disc and the sensor is required between 0.5 and 1 millimeter. In order to avoid damage to the sensor cable by rotating parts of the generator or engine, it must be fixed as securely as possible, since a malfunction of the DPKV leads to a stop in the engine.

Work principles.

Using the signal of the crankshaft position sensor, the control unit calculates the speed, and the determination of the amount of cyclic air filling of each of the four engine cylinders occurs by measuring the absolute pressure. The angle of the ignition advance values, which depend on the cyclic filling and speed, and corresponding to the engine speed, are stored in the block memory. These angle values ​​have an additional correction depending on the coolant temperature. Ensuring good traction properties under these conditions is achieved by increasing the angular values ​​of the ignition timing in a cold engine. Also, if a detonation fire is detected, due to some factors, such as changes in environmental conditions or the use of low-octane fuel, the control unit will correct the SPD. If the absolute pressure or ambient temperature sensors are damaged, the control unit activates emergency programs and turns on the diagnostic lamps. A decrease in power, a deterioration in dynamic properties, an increase in fuel consumption - all these are the results of operating a car engine with these malfunctions. In addition, in addition to ignition control, the block functions include the control of the economizer solenoid valve forcibly - idling, which, when braking the car engine, ensures that the fuel supply is turned off. The value of the rotations of the crankshaft to turn off the fuel supply is 1860 rpm, and to resume the supply - 1560 rpm.

First, it is necessary to check the operation of the diagnostic circuit and the on-board diagnostic system, since when the travel display mode is activated, fault code 12 should be issued. To start reading the codes, the tenth and twelfth contacts of the diagnostic block must be closed.

Secondly, using a diagnostic tester, measure the parameters of the engine sensors to compare them with the typical values ​​\u200b\u200bset for the “average” engine.

Provided that the master has certain experience and accurate signal parameters in volts, a conventional oscilloscope and a multimeter may be sufficient for measurements, but still, with a diagnostic tester, it will be possible to set the UOZ correction and check the actuators.

Engine ZMZ 406

Checking the tested Gazelle for absolute pressure gave a value of 50 mbar at a rate of 400-480, and an increase in speed did not cause an increase in pressure and its readings practically did not change.

Timing phases ZMZ 409, 405, 406 installation, configuration, adjustment, recommendations

on sale there are kits for installing timing phases

using the template, drill 6 more holes

my exhaust camshaft was assembled - that is, with a pressed star

unscrew the yoke - (clamping beds) the camshaft and turn the cams of the first cylinder onto the exhaust manifold, so that the chain is stretched from the lower star, press the p - twisting the yoke, put the protractor bar on the first cylinder - we catch 19 degrees with the right part of the pointer, I'm new the chain set 18 degrees, the allowable parameter is 2 degrees, in the manual 19 ... if it’s important, then you can repress the star in the second position of the key

the photo shows the position of the outlet before the RV clamp:

similarly turning the cam of the first cylinder to the intake manifold and catch 20 degrees or relatively one degree more than the resulting exhaust angle

I put 19 degrees since the release was 18

we press the installed inlet rh with a difference of one degree with the yokes and, applying the overdrilled star, rotate it so that in the chain tension one of the 7 drilled holes would be coaxial with the key on the rf, in extreme cases (for gourmets) there is a second version of the hole on the shaft for the key, i.e. there will be 14 options for you, just don’t drive the key deep into the moat in advance (so that it wouldn’t be excruciatingly painful ...) otherwise you don’t suddenly pull it out ... then put chain dampers, a hydraulic tensioner

it turns out this picture:

hydraulic tensioner: unscrew the hydraulic tensioner cover and a bolt in the center of the cover, insert a new or reloaded old one, screw the cover while pressing the tensioner and inserting a screwdriver, hit the tensioner opening it inside ...

yoke: numbers are written on the yokes

intake: 1-2-3-4, the number is placed on the side of the intake manifold!

outlet: 5-6-7-8, number on the exhaust manifold side!

do not confuse them in places, if you leave the old ones, then put them as they were!

if the RV is new, then be sure to oil the yoke and neck of the rb

if the front cover is new, then the pressure in the oil supply system will be INSUFFICIENT, for correction - the radius of the beds rp is rubbed with sandpaper until the front cover is fully pressed!

also read the benefit on our website:

or forum thread:

The ZMZ 406 carburetor began to be produced since 1996 and since then has managed to establish itself as a good reliability and simplicity. With its reliability, it significantly surpasses the outdated ZMZ 402 gas engine, which, after a breakdown, starts with difficulty.

Engine ZMZ 406 series

General characteristics

The ZMZ 406 engine is a carburetor, four-cylinder, and also in-line with a microprocessor ignition system. ZMZ 406 equipped with a carburetor has a power of 110 hp. s., and with an injector - 145 liters. with. In addition, injection modifications have different environmental standards. For example, ZMZ 4062.10 is class 0, and ZMZ 40621.10 is Euro class 2. An oil cooler is considered an extra part in ZMZ 406, because the 6th engine does not heat up. In ZMZ 405, the oil cooler does not perform its functions, and the engine overheats in the heat and naturally does not start.

With a carburetor, the ZMZ 406 does not require so many costs when equipped with gas equipment. Moreover, this advantage applies to propane and methane, but with an increase in the class of environmental standards, the cost of gas equipment will also increase.

The cost of gasoline carburetor ZMZ 406 directly depends on the conditions and driving style, as well as the seasons. The ignition system of the carburetor ZMZ 406 is considered quite reliable. The engine will be able to reach speeds of up to 500 thousand kilometers when using high-quality oil and gasoline, as well as careful handling of the pedal.

Gazelle

Model ZMZ 40524.10 is a well-known gazelle carburetor. The brand of cars - "Gazelle" is one of the most popular and affordable trucks in Russia, which were originally intended to carry not very large loads. Due to the huge number of such machines, we will consider several nuances of different gazelles systems. For example, a microprocessor ignition system, which is installed on the 406 model.

If the driver claims that his car makes some pops, jerks and loses its power. In this case, the power supply system, engine and ignition system should be checked. The gas analyzer checked the carburetor not during the operation of the 1st and 2nd chambers, cut-offs, enrichment and during idling and do not find any violations. Next, check the engine. When checking the compression, no problems were identified, but the next time abnormalities were found. It was concluded that the jerks and pops that the driver did not like were due to the jump of the teeth of the upper chain.

Carburetor ZMZ 406 series

What to do in case of loss of power of the gazelle?

From the very beginning, it is necessary to check how the diagnostic circuit and the on-board diagnostic system function, because during the activation of the motion display mode, a malfunction code - 12 should be obtained. To read the code, the 10th and 12th contacts of the diagnostic block must be closed. With the help of a diagnostic toaster, the parameters of the engine sensors are measured and then they are compared with typical values ​​​​of medium engines. The most common cause of a decrease in vehicle power is contamination of the tube that connects the intake manifold and pressure sensor.

Gazelle ignition system

The microprocessor ignition system ignites the working fluid in the cylinders and sets the required ignition timing of the car for all engine modes. The ignition system performs the function of regulating the operation of the forced idle economizer. Thanks to the ignition system, the operation of the engine becomes more economical, compliance with all exhaust gas toxicity standards is monitored, detonation is excluded and the car's power is increased. If we compare the classic system with this one, then this ignition system is much more reliable and durable. Only spark plugs can wear out here.

How does diagnostic mode work?

When the ignition system is turned on, the warning light comes on. At that very moment, the diagnostic system starts to work. If the system is working properly, then the light stops glowing, and otherwise it continues to burn. That is, an extinguished signaling device indicates that the ignition system is absolutely serviceable.

Carburetor ZMZ 406 series

Why does the 406 engine sometimes fail to start during a freeze?

The most common reasons why the 406 engine does not start:

• Poor quality oil;
• Insufficiently powerful battery, which does not allow the engine to start;
• Faulty starter;
• Misaligned ignition system;
• Poor quality gasoline;
• Violation of the supply of gasoline.

How to adjust the carburetor?

• Disconnect the choke actuator cord;
• Remove the air filter and carburetor cover;
• Check the level of the float chamber, it should be below 3 centimeters from the edges;
• Remove the plug from the float rod;
• Check the tightness of the o-ring valve;
• Install the top of the carburetor;
• Install the choke cable and air filter;
• Screw in the idle adjustment screw all the way to the end, unscrewing it five turns. Carry out the same actions with the quality screw, but already unscrew it three turns;
• Start the power unit;
• Let it heat up to 90⁰;
• By turning the operating adjustment screw, select the crankshaft speed, about 700 rpm;
• Depress the accelerator pedal and release quickly. If the motor stalls, increase the frequency;
• Go to a car dealership and adjust the CO and CH of the motor.

Not really

The procedure for replacing the timing chain ZMZ-406 Volga GAZ-31105 (video)

The dream of our fathers and grandfathers Volga. Not so long ago, my old friend visited us on his own favorite GAZ 31105. Appearing third-party noise from the timing drive, also increased consumption and poor throttle response, sentences the timing chain. So, GAZ 31105, engine 406 timing chain replacement.

Let's make a reservation right away what we need: engine oil with a filter and a crankcase pan gasket, it is better that it be cork, high-temperature sealant, gray 999 from ABRO, kerosene and a metal brush for washing parts. I saw a clean engine only in the new Volga. It is not for nothing that they say: “If oil does not flow on the Volga, then it does not exist.” Another set of wrenches and sockets reinforced by 36, a hexagon by 6, a lot of rags, instant coffee and a few sausage sandwiches. As well as patience and a great desire to carry out this procedure on their own, since the temptation to entrust this to someone else is very great. After reading the article to the end, you will understand why.

Most importantly, this is a complete kit for repairing the gas distribution drive of ZMZ-405,406,409 engines - this is its official name. It must include the following ingredients:

1. Two chain tensioners.
2. Two chain tensioners.
3. Two drive chains, small and large. For ZMZ-406 70 and 90 links, for ZMZ-405 72 and 92 links.
4. Three chain guides.
5. Upper and lower chain cover gaskets, pump and hydraulic tensioner covers, as well as two noise-insulating ones.
6. Sprockets of crankshaft and camshaft, intermediate shaft leading and driven with fixing plate.

He looks like this.

And here is the patient.

Under the hood is really a ZMZ-406 engine.

Finished inspection, proceed to strength exercises

First, remove the engine protection and mudguard. Drain the antifreeze and oil from the engine. Remove the top radiator hose.

Disconnect all interfering pipes.

Set aside the wiring harness. We remember or sketch the location of the connectors on the ignition coils.

With a 12 head, we unscrew eight bolts in a circle holding the valve cover and remove the last one.

While the service belt is tensioned, loosen the three bolts on the 10th pump pulley.

We loosen the bolt by 13, the tension roller and unscrewing the bolt by 10 we loosen the tension of the belt of auxiliary units.

Remove the service belt, pulley and coolant pump pulley.

We unscrew the four screws of the upper timing cover and remove the latter.

We remove the generator together with a triangular plate.

We unscrew the bolt on 10 crankshaft position sensor.

Read

We remove the sensor to the side, so as not to interfere.

With a 36 head for the pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft clockwise until the marks on the camshafts point to top dead center.

The mark on the intake camshaft should be at the level of the upper edge of the head cylinder block.

Same for the exhaust camshaft.

Ignition installation 406 car engine

The old man is a real master))))))))))))

GAZelle - installation of camshafts by marks

New method with refinement Want more video tutorials?

We unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt, having previously locked the crankshaft. To do this, the assistant in the cabin turns on the fifth gear and presses the brake with all his might, and at this time, with a slight movement of the hand, using a meter pipe and a 36 head, we unscrew the bolt. We remove the crankshaft pulley, you will have to suffer, because it sits tightly on the shaft.

Loosen the clamps on the pump pipes.

With a 6 hexagon, unscrew the four screws from the front side of the pump and a 12 key one from the back side and remove the coolant pump.

We unscrew the two bolts of the cover of the upper hydraulic tensioner. Since the tensioner in a discharged state, it will put pressure on the cover, hold it so that it does not pop out.

We remove the cover and the hydraulic tensioner itself.

Likewise the bottom.

We unscrew six bolts for 14 amplifiers and remove it. Hidden under it were the oil pan nuts.

With a hexagon, we unscrew the remaining screws of the front timing cover (5 pieces), as well as everything that holds the oil pan (11 screws and 4 nuts).

The pallet goes down about two centimeters, the beam does not give further. But this is enough to pull out the old gasket and, remembering the kind words of the engineers from Gorkov, to clean the adjacent surfaces before installing a new gasket.

This is such a terrible picture before our eyes.

Now remove the lower timing cover.

Unscrew with a hexagon upper damper screws and remove it.

Similarly with the second. It will come off with the chain.

On the camshafts there is a special turnkey square of 30, in order to be able to hold the shafts when unscrewing the sprocket bolt. We hold the shafts with a 30 key and unscrew the camshaft sprockets by 17.

We remove the camshaft sprockets and the chain with the damper.

Read

Loosen the chain tensioner with a hex key and remove it. Likewise with the bottom.

We bend the edges of the locking plate and with a 12 key we unscrew the sprocket mounting bolts intermediate shaft. We remove it along with the chain. Then unscrew with a hexagon two bolts of the lower damper and remove it.

In any car, the ignition system plays one of the main functions. It is thanks to its proper operation that the correct operation of the power unit is ensured both during its start-up and during the operation of the car. What kind of candles should be used in Gazelle cars, for what reasons can the ZMZ-406 ignition coil fail and how to install the ignition yourself? You can find answers to these and other questions below.

[ Hide ]

Candles used on cars with engines ZMZ-405, 406 and 409

Before you go to the store to buy spark plugs (SZ) for 405, 406 or 409 injector engines, you need to familiarize yourself with the service book for the car. The manual must accurately indicate the SZ models that are allowed to operate in such motors. The manufacturer officially recommends the use of SZ A14DVR or their analogues. If you decide to give preference to analogues, then keep in mind that the spark should be 0.7-0.85 mm.

Some motorists, leaving reviews on the Web, recommend using the SZ A17DVRM, but this is not allowed for two reasons:

• first of all, these products have a different heat sink parameter;
• in addition, their gap is 1 mm, which is not suitable for these engines.

Finding A14DVR devices today is not so easy, so many motorists have to look for analogues.

So that you can choose a similar product, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the decoding in more detail:

1. A - this beech determines the diameter, as well as the thread pitch D. In the original SZ, the M14 * 1.25 thread is used.
2. 14 is the value of the glow number. It is considered one of the main parameters that determine the characteristics of the temperature regime of the product.
3. D - the value of the thread length. In our case, the SZ is equipped with a 19 mm thread.
4. B - determines how much the thermal cone of the insulator protrudes into the combustion chamber of the motor itself. Due to the protrusion of the cone, the heating of the product is accelerated when starting the power unit, and this, in turn, provides its higher resistance to the formation of carbon deposits.
5. The last character - P - determines the presence of a built-in resistor element in the SZ design. Due to the presence of a resistor, the level of interference for radio equipment, as well as the motor control module, is reduced. In general, the presence or absence of this element in the design of the SZ will not affect the functionality and quality of the spark formation when starting the internal combustion engine.

Replacement intervals and symptoms of failure

On average, the service life of modern SZ is about 20 thousand kilometers. Of course, this indicator depends on many conditions. First of all, this is the quality of the part made, its operating conditions, as well as the quality of the fuel used. The last point is very important, since the use of low-quality fuel will lead to a significant reduction in the life of the SZ.

By what signs can you determine the malfunction of candles:

1. If you remove the SZ from the seat, you will see its body. The presence of soot and deposits on the body of the device, in particular, on the electrode, may indicate a breakdown of the product. You can try to solve such a malfunction by cleaning, but this does not always help.
2. The presence of traces of oil on the SZ. Due to oil exposure, the product cannot work efficiently, so malfunctions may occur in the operation of the SZ. Such devices must be cleaned and dried, but before further use, it is necessary to determine the reason for the ingress of motor fluid on them.
3. Also, fuel traces on the devices may indicate a malfunction of the SZ.
4. Another sign is that the starter has to be turned for a long time, while the engine may start after a long period of time, or it may not start at all. The same symptoms indicate a dead battery, a broken distributor, or an incorrectly working fuel pump.
5. When the engine warms up, unpleasant and uncharacteristic sounds appear for its operation. They can also appear when idling.
6. Significantly increased fuel consumption during the operation of the vehicle.
7. In addition, the amount of harmful substances in the exhaust gases has increased. Of course, it will not be possible to determine this malfunction by eye; a more thorough diagnosis is necessary.
8. The traction of the vehicle has significantly weakened, its power has decreased, the engine is gaining momentum with difficulty.

Checking candles with your own hands

According to the wiring diagram of motors 405, 406 and 409, spark plugs are used to transfer the spark from the distributor to the engine cylinders. If the operation of the SZ is disrupted, this may affect the quality of the motor as a whole.

To check devices, you need an assistant:

1. From the first NW must be disabled.
2. Using the key, the product is unscrewed from the seat.
3. One end of the device from the side of the electrode should be brought to the engine or metal on the car body, the distance between the electrode and the ground should be about 1-2 mm.
4. Then the assistant turns the starter, trying to start the engine. If at the moment of scrolling a spark jumped between the electrode and the body, this indicates that the product is operational. In the same way, you need to check each SZ. Please note that problems with the supply of a spark can also be caused by incorrect operation of the distributor, as well as damage to high-voltage wires.

Features of the ignition coil device

The ignition coil (KZ) is a small transformer. A primary winding is wound on its magnetic circuit, and a secondary winding is installed on top of it, in sections. Both of them are installed in a plastic case, and the space between these components is filled with a thermosetting polymer resin.

Also on the case are low and high voltage contacts for connecting the device. In accordance with the coil connection diagram, low voltage pulses are supplied to the device from the control module. Once inside the device, these pulses are converted into high-voltage charges, which, in turn, are fed to the SZ. The discharge is carried out simultaneously on two SZ (the author of the video is Alexander Terekhin).

How to check short circuit?

How to check the short circuit yourself:

1. First you need to disconnect the power wire from the negative terminal of the battery and turn off the ignition.
2. Then open the hood and disconnect the two high voltage cables from the product. Unscrew the bolts, and also dismantle the bar along with the product. The dismantling of the second short circuit is carried out in a similar way.
3. The diagnostic procedure itself is carried out using an ohmmeter, its probes are connected instead of disconnected wires. After connecting the probes, it is necessary to measure the resistance level. If the product is operational and serviceable, then the resistance level should be about 0.4-0.5 ohms.
4. To obtain more accurate diagnostic data, you can also short-circuit the tester probes, and then again diagnose the resistance. In particular, you are now interested in the secondary winding of the device. If the device is operational, then the resulting value should be in the region of 5-7 kOhm. In the event that the diagnostics showed other values, this indicates that the short circuit needs to be replaced.

Photo gallery "Diagnostics of short circuit"

Typical node malfunctions and methods for their elimination

A malfunction in the short circuit can happen for the following reasons:

1. Short circuit inside the system, which may cause the device to overheat. If the operating temperature exceeds 150 degrees, the product will fail forever.
2. The second reason is a power failure from the car's electrical network. As you know, for the normal operation of electrical devices, the voltage level in the on-board network must be at least 11.5 volts. If the power is too low, it will lead to the fact that it will take much longer to charge the short circuit.
3. Also, the device may fail due to mechanical damage to the insulation. This problem is usually associated with the ingress of motor fluid through worn seals.
4. Poor contact of the product with the on-board network. In the event that the short circuit case is damaged, this can cause moisture to enter the primary or secondary windings, which in turn can lead to the appearance of contact resistance.
5. Thermal problems. Some short circuit models are more susceptible to heat generation than others, which can also affect their service life.
6. As a result of the impact of engine vibrations, the short circuit performance may also be impaired.

Short circuit connection instructions

The ZMZ 405, 406 and 409 engines use two short circuits - one of them works with cylinders 1 and 4, and the second with cylinders 2 and 3. The first of them is closer to the intake manifold, and the second is next to the exhaust. To make the connection correctly, the low voltage wires should be connected in pairs - those used for the first coil (cylinders 1-4) will be shorter in length. Since the short circuits themselves are not polar, it does not matter which pin the cable is connected to, it also does not matter within the pair which cylinder the wire will be connected to (the author of the video is the SpawnyXC90 channel).

The main aspects of the ignition installation

The main aspects to consider when setting the ignition by tags:

1. First you need to dismantle the front cover of the cylinder head, for this you need to unscrew the four 12 screws. In some engine modifications, dismantling also involves removing the fuel pump.
2. Then the upper hydraulic tensioner located in the head is dismantled, for this, two screws fixing the cover are unscrewed.
3. Next, the chain dampers are removed - the middle one, as well as the top one, for this, two screws are unscrewed that fix them.
4. After that, the camshaft sprockets are dismantled. The shafts themselves must be fixed with a 27 key, while unscrewing the screws that fix them. In modifications of motors 4063.10, the camshaft sprocket is dismantled together with the fuel pump drive eccentric.
5. In accordance with the jig installed on the sprocket, six holes should be drilled in each of them. Their angular offsets should be 2, 30, 5, 00, 7 and 30 degrees from the set position of the factory hole, which is located along the axis of symmetry.
6. In the event that when adjusting the phases it will be necessary to turn the camshaft clockwise, then the sprocket itself should be mounted on one of the additional holes with a positive offset. It is located to the right of the standard hole.

Video "Instructions for setting the ignition"

A visual instruction on how to set it up yourself is given in the video below (the author is the GAZ 3110 Volga channel).