The manufacturer equips the VAZ-2114 with an injection power system with an immobilizer - a standard system against car theft. But many owners of this car model complain that the built-in factory immobilizer begins to “freeze” over time, which is why the car simply does not start. What is an immobilizer on a VAZ-2114? Why are there problems with it? How to turn it off correctly? Read about it in our article.

Immobilizer functions on the VAZ-2114

Automakers VAZ-2114 consider it their duty to install an anti-theft system, called a regular immobilizer, on each car produced. This device communicates with the engine (with its injection controller) using certain programs. Thanks to the program, an enabling signal is sent to the controller, which does not independently initiate the engine start. That is, the built-in anti-theft program blocks the engine from starting.

The mechanism of functioning of the immobilizer is to break the connection of the electrical circuit of the vehicle in one of the significant places. This could be the ignition or starter circuit. Due to the rupture, the car will not start and will remain stationary. The calculation is based on the fact that if the hijacker wants to steal the car, then it will be protected by the immobilizer program, which will prevent the engine from starting.

In order for the owner of the VAZ-2114 to be able to control the standard anti-theft system, electronic code keys are attached to it. According to the instructions, the car driver must use the electronic code key in the following way:

• insert it into a special socket (with a contact type of device) or bring it to the system status indicator - ISS (with a non-contact type of device);
• the immobilizer system reads the program code of the key;
• the car will be unlocked.

But in addition to the code key, to start the engine (it is called "working"), the owner is provided with a second key - "training".

They differ in standard colors:

• worker - black;
• training is red.

Initially, the anti-theft system learning procedure should be carried out so that the immobilizer works on a working key, since the new car is in an inactive state. It can only be activated using the red "training" key. As soon as this happens, the functions of enabling and disabling the anti-theft device will switch to a working "black" key. Thus, a regular immobilizer is intended to protect the vehicle from unauthorized engine start. The offender, even climbing into the car, may try to start its engine. But he won’t be able to go anywhere because the immobilizer system in the VAZ-2114 will block the engine.

Possible problems with the immobilizer on the VAZ-2114

The standard anti-theft device on the VAZ-2114, according to user reviews, can sometimes block the engine so that even the owner of the working key cannot start it. This is due to the peculiarities of the functioning of this device - it draws conclusions about its actions based on the working key code of the owner of the car, and gives commands to start the engine. Problems for the driver with the immobilizer begin as soon as the system stops accepting the code. In these cases, the electronic control unit will block the engine and it will not start. You can influence the standard system against vehicle theft by connecting a diagnostic device or a regular computer.

Experts note a number of cases that the immobilizer system malfunctioned when the mobile phone was turned on, which interfered.

How to disable the immobilizer on the VAZ-2114

Disabling the immobilizer on the VAZ-2114 may be necessary in several cases:

• there is a need for a more advanced anti-theft system (for example, equipped with auto start);
• when the immobilizer is overflowing with “software garbage”, the control unit fails;
• a device with an anti-theft function is installed in the car, which has a factory defect;
• the blocking system gives an error as a result of a complete discharge of the battery;
• there was a sudden blocking of the regular anti-theft system.

There are several ways in which you can disable the immobilizer on the VAZ-2114 without any problems.

The first way is to physically disable the immobilizer. To do this, we perform a few simple steps:

• remove the connector from this anti-theft device;
• put a jumper for diagnostics.

The second way is to take the engine control unit to a service center or go there by car, and qualified specialists will already deal with the control unit. It usually takes about fifteen minutes to turn off the standard anti-theft system.

The third way is to turn off the control unit on the immobilizer yourself. To do this, follow these instructions:

1. Locate the electronic control unit (ECU) of the anti-theft device (it may be located inside the center console).
2. Remove the signal wire connector from the ECU.
3. Count the ninth and eighteenth contacts (out of twenty available).
4. Cut off the wiring on the ninth and eighteenth contacts - from the block at a distance of four to five centimeters.
5. Strip the ends of the cut wires of the contacts.
6. Twist the ends of the cut wires.
7. Insulate the twisted ends of the wires (such an action will restore the diagnostic line, and the immobilizer will stop transmitting its data to the electronic control unit).
8. Install the connectors in their original places.

This method is simple even for a novice car enthusiast, but it cannot always correctly disable a standard anti-theft device.

The fourth way is to reflash the electronic control unit of the standard immobilizer on the VAZ-2114. Of course, it is best to entrust such an operation to qualified specialists from the service center. But if the owner of the vehicle does not have such an opportunity, then you can try to reflash the computer of the anti-theft device yourself at home. The term "reflash" itself means erasing all information about this device from the memory of the electronic control unit. To do this, prepare the following tools:

• special software;
• a computer;
• soldering iron or soldering station;
• microchip programmer.

After we have prepared the necessary tools, we proceed to specific actions:

1. We dismantle the electronic engine control unit, to which a regular immobilizer is connected from a car.
2. Open the back cover of the ECU.
3. We are looking for the desired microcircuit, which is responsible for the prescribed data on the anti-theft device (about which circuit this can be found in the corresponding instructions for the device).
4. We solder the old chip.
5. Choose one of the options for the next step:
   • or solder a new chip;
   • or we clear an existing microcircuit using a Windows computer and a special program for resetting microchip memory.
6. We physically turn off the immobilizer so that the computer memory does not record new information data about it.
7. We install the reflashed electronic control unit again on the car.

This method is more painstaking, but it is distinguished by its effectiveness. But this completed only the operation of flashing the immobilizer, it will still need to be reprogrammed using a "training" red key. And only after that you can officially turn off the standard anti-theft device.

1. When the standard anti-theft system is disabled, the vehicle becomes available to offenders-thefts.
2. The ECU system of an automobile engine is quite complex, so independent intervention in its programs, such as flashing microcircuits, can lead to irreversible consequences.

If you are not confident in your abilities and knowledge, experts do not advise you to open and reprogram the electronic control unit yourself, but contact a car service.

With the advent of the injection engine, an immobilizer began to be installed on the VAZ "top ten" - that is, a device with which the engine is blocked from starting. However, there are not so rare cases when this system needs to be somehow blocked, bypassed. The question then arises before the car owner - how to disable the immobilizer on the VAZ 2110?

Immobilizer

There are contact and non-contact (today - more popular) immobilizers. The former are controlled by a key, for the latter they came up with a special keychain, sometimes a card. They are usually successfully combined with all currently existing anti-theft alarms.

VAZ equipped with this device only models with an injector. When the VAZ 2110 just rolls off the assembly line, its immobilizer does not yet have a protective option enabled. Especially for this, there is a so-called delivery set of keys: two black ones in color are those that the owner will use in the future, and one is a red master key with which the immobilizer is “trained”, that is, it activates its protection function. As a rule, “training” is performed by car dealership employees during the pre-sale preparation of the car. But you can do it yourself, knowing how it works.

The first anti-theft devices installed on the VAZ 2110 were called APS-4. More advanced - APS-6, appeared a little later. The reading part is located in the steering column, and the code is in the ignition key. In addition, APS-6 can be used to control power windows, rear fog lights.

Immobilizer APS-4 with a set of keys

There are frequent cases when the APS-6 immobilizer is located in the old building (you see, the buildings were made for years to come). In this case, the number 4 is on the case, but APS-6 should be on the board itself. In addition, manufactured in different years, even microcircuits with such markings may differ slightly.

Immobilizer APS-6

The basis of the VAZ 2110 immobilizer is the exchange of information between the computer and the device itself. In this case, either permission to start the engine is triggered, or the ignition circuit is blocked along with the fuel pump, without which you cannot start the car, respectively, you will not go anywhere. Thus, without initializing the key of this car, the engine does not start.

There are several reasons why you may need to disable the immobilizer:

• firstly, this type of protection happens with a marriage (or rather, a design flaw) from the factory. Especially - in the first VAZ 2110, on which an immobilizer was installed. In cars of a later release, they even added the option of an alternative engine start bypassing protection. It works only once in this way: if the system “turns off”, you need to enter an individual six-digit digital password, then activate the option by pressing the gas pedal the prescribed number of times. Moreover, you need to do this six times. For example, your password is 155999. You must press the gas 1 time, wait a little - five times, wait a little - 5 more times, then - three times 9 times with breaks. If after some time the “glitch” happens again, the car will be able to start if you repeat the same number of clicks on the gas. You can learn more about this function in the instructions for each immobilizer;
• secondly, when the battery is completely discharged, the computer can remember this as an error, and prevent the engine from starting. The electronic engine control unit and the anti-theft device exchange information using the K-Line diagnostic line, therefore, having lost power, they perceive this as an error;
• thirdly, the ECU can block it for obvious reasons alone, which are not so easy for an ordinary motorist to figure out. For example, you can easily break the code by connecting diagnostic equipment while the ignition is on. And even a seemingly innocent turned on mobile phone can “knock down” the immobilizer (especially the first releases);
• the system may simply break down.

That is, there are many reasons to disable the immobilizer. But you can not just pull out the connector, and consider that the job is done. The VAZ 2110 will respond to such an action by turning off the entire engine start system. Here you need to know some rules in order to follow them.

To disable the immobilizer with your own hands, you must first disconnect the connector from the protection - so to speak, give a signal about the physical absence of the immobilizer, and then erase data about it from the ECU flash memory. But for many, this is probably understandable in theory, but it is not at all clear how to do it in practice.

One more thing: turning off the device when it was made unauthorized or incorrectly leads to blocking the car. And that’s all - no one is going anywhere anymore, you need to “cling on a tie” or order a tow truck and send the VAZ 2110 to specialists for service.

But there is a way out! Even two exit options.

1. Cutting wires. It is produced like this:

2. Do-it-yourself flashing (reprogramming). It will cost less than replacing the VAZ 2110 control unit. Necessary equipment:

Then you need to do something like this:

• remove, disassemble the computer;
• find the controller connector, connect the PAK-loader to it, read the factory firmware (its extension is BIN);
• we also read through the EEPROM connector;
• save the read factory firmware on the computer;
• upload a clean EEPROM to the ECU through the connector;
• disconnect the bootloader, assemble the controller, install it in place.

If we are dealing with Bosch M1.5.4, you need to open it, and then you can install the ECU chip prepared by us in place of the standard one with your own hands. Then just turn on the ignition for a couple of seconds. If it was in the program, then after installing the microcircuit, the engine will start.

If the ROM is soldered in the car block, then you will either have to solder it and perform chip tuning, or use the special COMBISET program with the EEPROM cleaning function through the connector without resoldering the chip.

ROM in the immobilizer unit

In addition, for the VAZ 2110, you can purchase special plugs that fit the APS connector. They restore the connection between the diagnostic block and the ECU.

There is a software version of Combiloader (2.1.8). With its help, in addition to the usual cleaning of the EEPROM, you can erase the EEPROM without deleting the immobilizer data. That is, if you cleared the EEPROM and the engine started, you can try to connect the immobilizer again. But for normal operation, you should repeat the “training” again using the red key.

Almost all new cars are equipped with immobilizers. These electronic devices help to prevent the theft of a vehicle by turning off the "vital" systems of the car. As soon as the attacker gets into the car, he will try to start the engine and drive away. The immobilizer will either not allow this to be done at all, or the hijacker will be able to drive off several hundred meters, after which the fuel supply will stop and the engine will stall.

Such immo devices can be contact or non-contact. The first ones have already ceased to be produced, and the second ones are very popular with car owners. However, sometimes situations sometimes arise when a motorist wonders how to turn off the immobilizer on a VAZ 2112 or another brand. The fact is, in the brainchild of the domestic auto industry, problems often occur specifically with electronics and various devices. Consider the main reasons for disabling the immobilizer.

VAZ began to equip only injection-type cars with immo. The first anti-theft devices of this series appeared on the VAZ 2110 and they were called APS-4. Today, more modern APS-6 models are more common. Now all cars of the 2110 to 2115 series are equipped with this device.

The most common problem with this device is the loss of a key or if the car owner, without knowing it, erased his code. Speaking specifically about VAZ regular immo, you can often find a problem related to the fact that the lights do not go out in the cabin and, as a result, the alarm does not work. In addition, immobilizer software often fails, as a result of which its central unit does not read information about the key or considers it “not native”. As a result, stopping to refuel, you run the risk of being left in a “stalled” car.

To reprogram (marry, bypass, flash, upgrade, adapt) the device must first be turned off. In addition, immobilizers are usually turned off when installing a car alarm.

Before turning off the immobilizer on the VAZ 2110, you should study all the methods for such a restart, and the first thing to start with is a useful option from the VAZ. Since it is in these cars that immobilizers most often “fail”, manufacturers have come up with a simple solution to this problem. Thanks to special software, you can make an alternative start of the device and make one trip in emergency mode. True, for this you first need to enter a six-digit password. It is activated by pressing the gas pedal. This means that if the “reset” code is “999999”, then the corresponding number of times, with the same interval, you need to press the gas. Such a procedure does not cause positive emotions, but in a hopeless situation or when setting an alarm, this may be the only way to outwit the immobilizer.

Another method is the bypass module (immo crawler). A small electronic device is equipped with transceiver antennas located inside and outside. Inside the case there is also a key or device chip. As soon as you start the car with the alarm, the internal antenna reads the code and transmits it to the ignition switch.

Important! If the car starts with a key, such a lineman will not work.

If one of the keys was lost, then the remaining spare can be disassembled and the chip removed from it and fixed to the ignition switch. After that, you can use any ignition key and the immo will be disabled.

This is with regard to generally accepted tricks that will help in solving such issues as turning off the immobilizer on the VAZ 2114. If you want to manually turn off the immo, then you must adhere to the following recommendations.

Before disabling the immobilizer, you must disconnect the connector from the protection, that is, give the system a signal that there is no immo. After that, it will be possible to erase the data on the device and replace them with new ones. But in practice, everything is not so simple.

If you turn off the device incorrectly, the system may perceive this as unauthorized access and the car will be completely blocked. In this situation, it will be difficult to do anything, all that remains is to call a tow truck. Therefore, be extremely careful. There are two schemes for disabling the immobilizer.

To do this, find the immobilizer control unit. Most often it is located behind the center console, next to the radio. After that, you need to feel for the connector on the block and remove it. In this connector you will find 20 pins, first find the ninth, and then the eighteenth. These two wires must be cut, connected and insulated.

After that, it remains only to remove the immobilizer and restore the line through which the diagnostics are performed (K-line). To do this, install a jumper that will restore communication between the computer and the diagnostic block. We cut the wires and connect them, after which the connector is placed in its rightful place.

For this you will need:

Next, you need to disassemble the computer, find the controller connector and connect the PAK-loader to it. We read the factory firmware with the BIN extension. It is also necessary to read information through the EEPROM connector. After that, you need to save the factory firmware on the computer and upload a clean EEPROM to the computer. After that, you can disconnect the bootloader, assemble the controller and install it in place.

A soldering iron will be required if the auto ROM block is soldered. Or you can use the COMBISET program with the EEPROM cleaning function, then you don’t have to solder anything.

If we are talking about a specific APS-6 immobilizer, then it will be useful to know the purpose of the immo pins.

• The green wire refers to the antenna coil in the ignition switch.
• Blue is responsible for the additional power relay (for power windows).
• Green-white comes from the head light switch.
• Orange-white refers to the rear fog lights.
• Pink is a permanent plus from the battery.
• The yellow wire is connected to ground when the rear fog lights are on.
• Yellow-black refers to the K-line, if it is class 7, then we have a wire from the diagnostic block, and if class 8, then from the EUR control unit.
• White goes to the antenna coil located in the ignition switch.
• The green/black comes from the VC door on the driver's side.
• Brown - from VK dimensions.
• Black is mass.
• Orange refers to terminal 15 of the ignition switch.

Please note that APS-6 immobilizers can often be located in the housing from APS-4. Apparently, in those years, the cases were made more than the devices themselves, and thus the manufacturers decided to sell them. So look for a board that might say APS-6 instead of 4. Also, keep in mind that the above rules may differ as well as chips manufactured in different years. Therefore, be careful and, if possible, entrust this matter to a professional.

Having connected a new alarm, they often encounter one problem - autorun does not work. Immediately you need to check whether all connection points are involved. In the latest VAZ models, such as 2114, the ignition switch contains three terminals: starter, power, ignition. It is difficult to get confused here, but the motor can turn on and stall after 5 seconds. In fact, this is how regular protection works. How to deal with it is discussed further.

We are looking for the "culprit" of all problems

We will assume that we are talking only about the VAZ-2114 hatchback. If the key, that is, the key fob, needs to be leaned against the platform, disconnect its two connectors (light bulb and antenna). And then, taking a screwdriver, you can dismantle a separate block, fixed to the right of the steering column:

Dismantling the APS module

The block itself is called APS-4, but in its case, if we talk about the last years of production, APS-6 electronics can be located.

Let's say they are installing an alarm with auto start, and a regular immobilizer, such as APS-6, has been activated. There are four solutions:

1. An immobilizer crawler is connected to the alarm, and a chip key is placed inside the crawler case;
2. A good option is to install keyless crawlers, only there is no CAN bus in the car of the 2114 family, and there is nowhere to connect “digitally”;
3. You can also switch the immobilizer to service mode, but in APS-6 modules, unlike APS-4, this feature is blocked;
4. Finally, you can completely get rid of standard protection, but for this you need to reset the EEPROM of the computer.

In general, EEPROM is a "memory device", and the ECU is the engine controller. It turns out that you will have to work with the controller unit, and the immobilizer itself will remain as it was.

Manipulations with the ECU controller

The VAZ-2114 controller unit may belong to the following family - January 5.1.X or ITELMA 5.1. The digital designation printed on the label, in this case, looks like this: 2111-1411020-71 (the numbers “72” can go). If the last two digits are a "space" or the number "70", then the BOSCH M1.5.4 controller is installed. EEPROM erasure in the latter case is performed with the parsing of the block, but without soldering. And in the first case, you don’t even have to open the cover of the block.

Resetting the EEPROM in the BOSCH controller

Let's see what the controller board looks like from below:

BOSCH M1.5 ECU

The 24C02 chip is the EEPROM memory. Circle the marker on the 5th and 6th taps, B and C. These points are for connecting the programmer, which is assembled from three transistors.

The scheme of the programmer, which was discussed, looks trivial. And that means you can quickly assemble it with your own hands:

Programmer for EEPROM 24C02

The device is connected to the computer's COM port. And from the MOLEX connector they take the voltage "12 Volts". Of course, the "mass" must also be taken from this connector. The maximum current consumed by the computer in any case will not exceed 0.5 A.

Now consider the procedure for allowing the ECU to "forget" about the existence of the immobilizer:

1. The supply voltage (12 Volts) is applied to the 18th and 27th contacts of the block;
2. The common wire, that is, the “ground”, is connected to the 19th contact;
3. Wait 10 seconds;
4. Connect pin B of the programmer to tap 5;
5. Connect pin C of the programmer to pin 6;
6. In the interface of the Combiset program, select the "Clear EEPROM" item, press the "Install" button;
7. Wait a few minutes.

The wiring for the main ECU connector looks like this:

ECU block, 55 pins

The Combiset application must be downloaded from the official website (almisoft.ru). Even the Demo version available in the Download section is suitable.

In the program itself, you must correctly set the number of the COM port that will be used. The COM-1 port is shown below, but this is not the only option.

Combiset interface

How "untie" controllers "January"

A common type of controller in VAZ-2114 cars are the following blocks: January 5.1.X and ITELMA 5.1. They need to be programmed in the same way. It is required to use an adapter from the COM port to the K-Line, but it is easy to make it yourself:

Screenshot of the Flashecu window

The erasing procedure takes several minutes.

The block itself, which was mentioned above and which needs to be “untied” from the immobilizer, is always located in one place - under the tunnel cover on the right:

Interior of the fourteenth model

Of course, we are talking about the 2114 family, and in other VAZ cars it will be more difficult to find a block. Installation and disconnection can be done as follows:

1. Remove the "minus" terminal from the battery;
2. Unscrew the fixing bolt and remove the latch together with the block;
3. Disconnect the connector.

During installation, the steps are carried out in reverse order. But there is one trick.

After connecting the ECU, power is supplied to the network. And then, oddly enough, you need to turn on the ignition and wait for the Check lamp to work. And only then, turning off the ignition, you can continue to operate.

Note that the immobilizer itself, after flashing the block, should not even come into contact with the latter. Therefore, having disconnected its terminal block from the immobilizer, a standard revision is carried out:

1. From terminals 9 and 18, the wires are cut off;
2. The resulting taps coming from the side of the loop are connected.

You can not change anything, but simply turn off the connector completely, losing some features:

1. Polite lighting;
2. PTF taillight control;
3. Window lifter control.

As you can see, the immobilizer in modern VAZ cars has many functions. And they turn it off for one purpose - to activate the alarm with auto start.

Double-row connector of the standard immobilizer

The immobilizer bypass module in any VAZ car works well in one case - when it is included in the antenna circuit break. But not all modules manufactured at the factory are designed in principle for this connection option.

Security Notes

An in-house device, such as an APS, provides the best level of protection. But the alarm, even the most modern, can be considered only an additional security device. It does not communicate with the ECU and does not prevent the engine from starting. At the same time, when setting an alarm with auto start, blocking is always implemented. Two cords going to the main unit are included in the break of the starter cable. And until the security is turned off, the engine cannot be started.

Typical signaling connection diagram

All wiring connected to the ignition switch carries a significant amount of current. But doing the installation with your own hands does not always provide good quality connections. In general, it is better to entrust autostart to an experienced electrician. We wish you success.

Polite lighting and door switches

Any alarm or security system is always provided with an input connected to the door switches. In VAZ cars, the control wire can be connected to one point (A). Diodes are not used in this case:

Wiring diagram for door control

Be sure to carry out the setting: the polling delay of the limit switches should be 20-30 seconds. If this is not done, false positives will occur when the guard is turned on. The reason is the operation of the APS unit, which does not extinguish the ceiling after closing the driver's door. The option in question is called "polite highlighting".

There are even modern alarms that do not allow you to turn on the sensor polling delay. Installing diodes will help solve the problem.

In theory, conclusions 7 and 13 of the BSC are the connection points that must be decoupled with two diodes. But as practice shows, it is better to implement a circuit with three additional diodes (see Fig.). The signaling is connected to point B, and setting the polling delay in this case is not required. Good luck.

Key walker, principle of operation

Buying a vehicle in our country is quite difficult. Therefore, it is not surprising that there are entire organizations of intruders who trade in stealing with subsequent resale according to gray schemes.

And it doesn’t matter if you own a BMW or a domestic VAZ, the attackers do not shun anything to make money by criminal means. Therefore, safety is first of all, and the VAZ 2114 immobilizer is intended for its implementation.

In addition to it, on board the VAZ 2114 of the maximum configuration there is a two-way alarm system and many more interesting things designed to exclude the possibility of using a car by an unauthorized person.

But in some circumstances, even the rightful owner has a question: “how to disable the immobilizer on the VAZ 2114?”. Therefore, let's figure out why this is necessary and how to cope with this task.

Purpose of immobilizers

An immobilizer is a vehicle unit designed to prevent third-party manipulations with the car, with unauthorized access. Theoretically, it should look like this - the attacker got into the car and even got access to the ignition, but the car does not drive, no matter how hard he tries.

Moreover, the unit of the device is quite mobile. Properly hiding it in the car body, you completely eliminate the possibility of finding and turning it off. The main thing is to be unpredictable.

INTERESTING! Depending on the device, the effect of blocking the machine is achieved by blocking: the wheels, the wings, the fuel pump or the air supply. The system is multifaceted and used in completely different ways.

Immobilizer VAZ 2114

The VAZ plant offers several types of immobilizers differing in the principle of their action:

1. The first ones provide blocking of the machine in the absence of the owner. The machine will not respond to any manipulations with it in the absence of a physical key nearby.
2. The latter offer a more complex option - the car will start, but it will let you drive just a little bit, after which it will become “still in its tracks”. The attacker will not look for the control unit on the street and he will have to leave.
3. There are also quite insidious modifications that lock the thief in the car. They give the owner the opportunity to arrive at the scene and call the police.

According to the principle of operation of the device, there are contact and non-contact, which is the main factor affecting the price.

Devices work, depending on the design:

• contact immobilizer 2114 - the “trigger” is the fact that the car starts without the participation of the native key. A definite minus - the VAZ designers could not invent hundreds of thousands of unique keys. The device remembers the main features of the native key, and professional attackers are ready for contact with a variable device;
• a contactless immobilizer is much more complicated and more promising. The machine will be working until the native key is within the reach of the device. As soon as the "owner" (native key) leaves the radio receiver zone, the security mode is activated. The car will become just a beautiful pile of metal, unable to go anywhere.

Why is it needed and when is it not needed?

The standard immobilizer on the VAZ 2114 leaves the assembly line untrained. There is no master key data in its memory. Therefore, the complete delivery set of the car contains 3 keys: red (training) and two black (working). The owner will have to learn the system, with which the salon staff or the previous owner will help him, when selling the car “from hand”.

In domestic cars, the immobilizer communicates directly with the car's ECU, which blocks or unlocks the system. This is the biggest disease of the entire system, because domestic automatic systems leave much to be desired. Communication between the immobilizer and the ECU can interfere with the connection of diagnostic equipment, signal interference, and even normal mobile interference.

Another weak point of the device is the battery. If he completely sits down, the K-Line (communication line with the computer) will be broken and the same consequences will occur as with unauthorized access. Regardless of the reasons for decoding the communication between devices, you cannot avoid a trip to the service on a tow truck.

INTERESTING! Until the latest series of VAZ cars, a domestic-made immobilizer was a favorite type of service station earnings. They solved the problem in the most profitable (for themselves) way - a complete replacement of the computer.

There were so many unreasonable system failures (especially in cars before 2001) that VAZ designers developed separate software for emergency starting the car. The machine controller pre-configured for this function will allow a single start followed by a safe ride.

The device does not have external controllers, and therefore the password is entered by pressing the gas pedal. It is necessary to follow a special algorithm, which turns this function into a perversion. You can read more about the tuning algorithms in the instructions for the immobilizer.

Having assessed the above errors of the system, the VAZ design bureau in 2004 replaced the brand of the serial device with APS-6 (APS-4 was previously installed). They have developed new software.

The most notable innovations were: the code key, which moved from the gas pedal to the steering column and door control (including power windows).

Although the new functionality has become noticeably better than the previous one, failures and "miracle masters" until today force car owners to change the ECU on the fourteenth. Sometimes the owner can unintentionally delete the code on his own, after which the question of expensive car repairs will arise. Also, do not forget about some of the tricks that domestic motorists go to in order to deceive the cunning system.

How to bypass the immobilizer on a VAZ?

If the problem is not brought to a critical state, and the car is still on the move, you can resort to a number of tricks.

Domestic motorists cope with critical situations as follows:

1. If you are a prudent driver, install an alternative immo - this is a special immobilizer bypass module in a critical situation. These are two small transceivers connected in parallel with a protective device to the computer and the ignition system. If the car is blocked by a standard system, you will have a mechanism at hand that can start the transport, contrary to the established prohibitions. The only negative is that you have to fork out extra for electric ignition.
2. If you have lost the key and are afraid to lose the second one, disassemble the remaining one. The main thing is to carefully remove the chip and not damage it, after that it can be put on glue near the ignition. A significant disadvantage of the solution is that the car will start with any key.

If these options do not suit you, then you will have to approach the problem with all responsibility and turn off the immobilizer 2114 manually.

We turn off the immobilizer on the VAZ-2114 with our own hands

To disable the VAZ 2114 immobilizer, you must follow a number of rules:

• remove the security connector before shutting down the system;
• you need to be extremely careful so that the system does not recognize the shutdown as unauthorized access.

There are two algorithms for dismantling the device from the machine.
1. Trimming contacts:

• we find the control unit next to the radio or where you hid it;
• remove the connector from the block and find the ninth and eighteenth contacts (there are 20 in total);
• we cut the contacts, isolate the ends and dismantle the immobilizer;
• we put a jumper between the computer and the diagnostic block, which will restore the K-line connection;
• connect the cut wires and return the connector to its place.

2. Manual flashing:

• we take a computer, a software package, a soldering iron and a programmer;
• disassemble the computer and connect the programmer to the controller;
• read the firmware BIN file and information from the EEPROM and save the information in a safe place;
• install a clean, previously downloaded, EEPROM;
• we assemble the device, if the ROM was soldered, you will need a soldering iron, if not, you are lucky and everything will be faster. As an alternative to a soldering iron, you can use COMBISET, it automatically clears the EEPROM, leaving a clean factory firmware.

Useful video

Other interesting information you can get from the video below:

The purpose of the immobilizer is to prevent any unauthorized attempts to access control of the vehicle. The place where the immobilizer is located on the VAZ-2114 is located in the instrument panel, from the side of the ignition switch, above the engine control unit.

Location of the APS-4 immobilizer on the car

The fact is that the Togliatti designers who created the "four" mocked the consumer, by installing the ECU and the immobilizer under the pipes of the car's heater system . Thus, in case of violation of the tightness of the system, they must be filled with antifreeze.

What is an immobilizer and why is it scolded?

Since the beginning of the 2000s, an automobile anti-theft system (APS) has been installed on all injection engines manufactured in Togliatti.

Immobilizer APS-6

Initially, the first "tens" were set APS-4, they were soon replaced by more modern APS-6.

In another way, a standard anti-theft device is called an immobilizer.

The meaning of the system is as follows: an attempt to steal a car will end in nothing. The attacker will not be able to start the engine, and if he does start it, then after driving a few hundred meters, the fuel supply will stop and the engine will stall.

The idea is good, but there are a number of problems that arise during its operation:

• Software failure . The electronics does not see the update of the information supplied by the ignition key or does not recognize it. There were times when, stopping and turning off the engine, it was no longer possible to start it.
• Engine lock due to dead battery . Leaving the car parked for several days in the winter can inadvertently activate the system.
• Serious problems when connecting an alarm with auto start.
• Breakdown, contact closure due to bad location .

Interesting! The first injector VAZ-2114s were produced either without APS, or with an unconnected unit hanging inside on its own wiring. With what it was connected (savings, lack of equipment or for another reason), no one knows, but the fact remains.

Troubleshooting

In the case when a car with an active immobilizer does not communicate with the computer, you need to know the following: K-Line wire connects the diagnostic connector and the APS. Only then does the power enter the electronic control unit.

In the event of a malfunction, you need to make sure that the system is connected to the correct connector. If the result is positive, you can try to disconnect it and jumper pins 9 and 18.

You get a direct connection between the computer and the diagnostic connector, bypassing the anti-theft system.

In case of malfunctions associated with the operation of the immobilizer, it must be taken into account that this is a complex electronic device. Therefore, to eliminate its malfunction, it is recommended to contact a professional auto electrician.

Important! In case of breakdowns associated with its work, you need to know that it is difficult to restore functioning after the intervention of inept hands, and in some cases it is completely impossible.

Deactivation and activation (pros and cons)

The Bosch ECU on the VAZ-2114 came with the APS-4 immobilizer

Deciding whether or not, you need to know the following. APS-6 or 4, although it has a number of significant drawbacks, it really counteracts hooligans who may decide to ride in a car standing near the entrance. The alarm does not turn off the engine and fuel system.

The anti-theft system of the 6th series, on the contrary, turns off the power (the 4th turns off the fuel pump and glow plugs). Therefore, it is up to you whether to connect it after the next glitch or not. But at least if they decide to steal a car, then this will require their own computer, you can’t take a car with your bare hands.

Immobilizer deactivation video

Joke from AvtoVAZ

Important! When disassembling the immobilizer yourself, pay attention to the marking of its boards. The fact is that in the case from APS - 4 there may be a board from the 6th series. This is another, another cruel joke from AvtoVAZ.

I. What is it?

Despite the huge popularity of the previous article (which, without indicating the source of information, was reprinted by the Master 12 V magazine and pieces of which are posted on another hundred small car-related Internet pages), I decided to radically rework it.

So - the VAZ immobilizer is a standard anti-theft device installed on all new VAZ injection cars (except for the "classics"). Initially, when leaving the factory, all immobilizers are in an unlearned state, that is, with a non-activated protection function. The package includes 3 keys - 2 black "workers" and a red "master key" for training the system. Training, as a rule, is carried out when the car is sold or independently by the owner of the car.

The principle of operation of the immobilizer is quite simple. It exchanges data with the control unit (ECU), allowing or prohibiting, depending on the state of the system, starting the engine at the ECU level, that is, without additional blocking. Permission to start the engine is made only after successful initialization (reading) of the black key. When you try to start a car that is not disarmed, the ECU blocks the ignition and fuel pump circuits.

As already noted, the exchange of data between the immobilizer and the computer takes place via the K‑Line diagnostic line, so it is possible to disable it or knock down the code (!) Even by innocently connecting the diagnostic equipment with the ignition on (tested on our own experience) or interference from a conventional cellular phone. Also, in the presence of an immobilizer, in no case should the battery be "landed" to zero. In this case, chaotic garbage can be registered in the EEPROM, and a trip to the service "on a tie" cannot be avoided. For quite a long time, this fact brought a lot of income to the workshops, because the problem was solved and still sometimes solved grief - by diagnosticians it is trivially simple and profitable - by replacing the ECU with a new one when the immobilizer is physically turned off. In fairness, it should be noted that the number of failures and "glitches" of immobilizers has recently decreased sharply - apparently, VAZ is still working to improve the noise immunity of immobilizers, the largest number of "glitches" falls on cars before 2001 release.

There were so many cases of sudden failure of immobilizers due to software (specifically software, since there are negligible cases of failure of immobilizers) failures that VAZ developed in the new software a user-programmable function of an alternative engine start in the event of a system failure, i.e. the controller in emergency mode allows one trip, provided that this function is activated in advance and the correct password is entered. Activation and entry of a password of 6 digits (programming) is done by pressing the gas pedal, imagine how many times you will need to press it without straying, according to a certain algorithm, if you have conceived, for example, the number "999999" :). Subsequently, if the immobilizer fails, you can, again, by pressing the gas numerous times, beg the car to start. You can read more about this perversion for the tireless and inquisitive in the description of the immobilizer.

On Chevrolet-Niva and fresh cars (since 2004), a more modern and advanced immobilizer APS‑6 was used. The device is functionally similar to APS-4, but in this system the code key is built into the ignition key, and the reader is located in the steering column. A number of additional features have also been implemented - control of power windows, rear PTFs, and immobilizer diagnostics via k‑line. Structurally, APS‑6 differs from APS‑4. Moreover, APS‑6 different years of release are slightly different from each other. In the photo below, on the left - APS-6, 2003, on the right - 2001. Apparently this is the case when "the manufacturer reserves the right to make changes that do not affect the performance of the product." The internal structure of the immobilizer, despite the low cost, is quite complicated. It is a microcontroller based on PIC16 C65 B, K-Line circuit for communicating with the ECU via the diagnostic line and EEPROM memory for storing learning codes. Board photo APS‑4. Photo of the APS‑6 board from the Niva-Chevrolet. APS6 .1 board photo (high resolution).

It should also be borne in mind that very often APS‑6 is installed in a case from APS‑4, i.e. externally, the block has the marking APS‑4, and on the board the marking APS‑6.

On Kalina and Priora cars, the microchip is located inside the standard key fob. The key fob also controls the standard central lock (and standard alarm). In the Priora car, the immobilizer is structurally integrated with the double-glazed window controller, on the Kalina - the APS‑6 unit is separate, located behind the radio.

Connecting the APS to the ECM with a 55-pin ECU connector

To wiring with 81-pin ECU connector

APS‑4 user manual

APS‑6 user manual

Instructions for retraining the immobilizer

II. Problems and solutions.

The following describes methods for dealing with a "buggy" or broken immobilizer. When learning, the immobilizer writes its code to the EEPROM (EEPROM - non-volatile flash memory that stores data when the power is completely off) of the controller. The immobilizer also uses EEPROM, which stores information about two learned keys. As a result of training, an individual set of keys - an immobilizer - an ECU is obtained, which works only in this combination.

Obviously, in order to disable the immobilizer, it is necessary that it be physically absent and there should be no information about the presence of the immobilizer in the EEPROM of the ECU. Simply put, you need to disconnect the connector from the immobilizer and clear the EEPROM of the ECU.

The immobilizer is located: on the VAZ 2110 directly above the computer, that is, in order to get to it, you need to unscrew the side shield; in a VAZ 2109 with a high panel - behind the instrument panel, between the steering column and the place where the carburetor has a suction. On a Chevrolet Niva car, access to the immobilizer (as, indeed, to everything else) is very difficult. Location .

When removing the immobilizer, do not forget to restore the diagnostic line - install a jumper to restore communication between the computer and the diagnostic block. In order to use all the other functions of the immobilizer, you can cut the wires and connect them, thereby restoring the K‑line (more on this below), and insert the connector into place.

The method of "revitalizing" the controller is very simple - you need to clear the non-volatile memory of the computer from the information left there by the immobilizer. In practice, it looks like this - the standard wiring connector is disconnected from the immobilizer, if you need the diagnostic signal to reach the diagnostic block from the computer, you need to install a jumper between contacts 9.1 and 18 in the removed connector. Immo can be thrown away, or you can leave it - it’s beautiful to extinguish the ceiling, in this case it is necessary to cut the wires from pins 9 .1 and 18 from the connector and connect them together. At the same time, install the immobilizer connector in its original place. Next, you need to take a closer look at the ECU and find out its origin .

If this is a Bosch M1 .5 .4, you need to open it and install a specially prepared chip with EEPROM cleaning program ECU and turn on the ignition for a few seconds. After installing the microcircuit with the program in place, the engine will start, unless, of course, this was the case. If the ROM is soldered in your block, there are two ways out - either solder and install the socket (which is not bad, it will come in handy later for Chip-Tuning), or use the US COMBISET program, which has the function of clearing the EEPROM via a serial channel, without resoldering chips. Keep in mind that in this case it is necessary to provide the adapter and the ECU with a reliable common ground. In order to use this paid program, there is no need to purchase it at all - the EEPROM cleaning function fully works in the demo version. In 2006, special plugs for the APS connector appeared on VAZ cars (see photo) to restore communication between the computer and the diagnostic block.

If you have January 5.1.x or VS.1, then you can use any free block programmer, download a special program overwrite eeprom, and fill in the block EEPROM firmware, read from the “clean”, with an untrained immobilizer,

controller. You can read the old file, correct everything to #FF with any editor and upload it back, the information available in the EEPROM practically does not carry any semantic load if the unit works without an immobilizer, it contains only the COP, the CO correction factor and the name of the firmware. Although #FF in the EEPROM does not allow the engine to be started, the ECU will

turning on, without detecting the immobilizer on the diagnostic line, it itself prescribes the start permission code. If you are a programmer user COMBILOADER(or old version ECU Programmer) from SMS-Software, removing the immo from the ECU memory is quite elementary - you need to read the EEPROM, click on the "Delete Immo" button and write the dump back.

In Bosch MP7 .0 H systems, you will either have to use the Combiset program (even the demo version works with eeprom), or solder the chip and program it on a programmer that supports this type of chip. When using Combiset, it is necessary to supply + power and ground to the controller and connect the adapter as shown in the photo:

It may happen that it is impossible to completely erase the eeprom, then you need to edit the dump using the Kn method: To delete the immo record, it is enough to replace bytes from 02 to 07 with FF. After connecting, the immo is not needed and, obviously, the ECU prescribes 0 FD1 0 FD1 0 FD1 in this place. If, after writing FF, the immo is physically disabled, 0 FD30 FD30 FD3 is written there. If you write immediately not FF but 0 FD10 FD10 FD1 immo does not interfere anymore. The most interesting thing is that if you enter a random sequence in this place, then immo works (!!!) and prescribes the ECU again 005100510051 there. More bytes change from address 050 and from 070, this is the so-called rolling-code, a dynamic immobilizer password.

The new version of Combiloader (2 .1 .8 ), in addition to the regular eeprom cleaning procedure, has the ability to erase the eeprom without deleting the immobilizer data.

You can analyze yourself eeprom dumps and the corresponding immobilizer status.

If, after the EEPROM cleaning procedure, the engine starts up, you can risk reconnecting the immobilizer. It should be borne in mind that in order for the immobilizer to start performing its functions normally, it is necessary to “retrain” it again using the red key. It may happen that the retraining procedure does not work. Then there are three options. First - you need to unsolder the eeprom from the immobilizer, clean it with a programmer and solder it back. You can also solder a new, clean chip. The second is to clear the eeprom using A. Sokolov's (aka Uncle Sam) Combiset program, the Bosch eeprom cleaning mode. The third is to purchase a new immobilizer. In all three cases, the immobilizer is “clean”, that is, it is capable of programming using any red key.

If the ECU is changed to a new one, the immobilizer will remain operational, respond to the keys and turn off / on the ignition, but will not prohibit the engine from starting. In this case, it is necessary to completely retrain the immobilizer using the red and black keys. Immo APS‑4 of early releases could unmotivatedly “register” in a newly connected ECU, but these cases are extremely rare.

After removing the immobilizer on cars without a catalyst and without a CO regulator (setting CO from a computer or tester), it is necessary to re-adjust the CO, because the CO correction value storage area is also erased.

Attention! On cars with the Mikas 7.6 (Daewoo Sens) system, you cannot completely erase the eeprom - the car will not even start.

On Kalina cars, deactivation of the immobilizer will lead to incomplete operation of the standard central lock. Also, if APS-6 is not trained correctly (activation errors), the device is blocked. In this case, the only way out is to write a "clean" eeprom. Always try to save eeprom images before and after activation.

Kalina - pure eeprom

Kalina - pure eeprom 797+ (new hardware implementation)

Dump of an untrained immobilizer APS‑6

Dump of the immobilizer of the controller of the electropackage "Norma" (Priora)

Assignment of the conclusions of the APS-6 immobilizer

№	Wire color	Purpose
1	Green
2	Blue	Additional Power Window Relay
3	Not used
4	Green/White	From head light switch
5	Orange/White
6	Pink	Permanent plus, from the battery, powered by APS‑6
7	Pink	Permanent plus, from the battery
8	Yellow	Connects to ground when the rear PTF is turned on
9	Yellow/Black	K Line. Cl. 7 diagnostic pads, class. 8 EUR control unit.
10	White/Blue	"-" Interior ceiling lamp on Kalina (and additionally from VK passenger doors on Sh‑Niva)
11	White	To the antenna coil, in the ignition switch
12	Green/Black	From VC driver's door
13	Brown	From VK overall lighting
14	Red/Blue	To class. 15 control unit SP "Norma"
15	Orange/White	To the rear fog lights
16	Black	Weight
17	Pink	Permanent plus, from the battery
18	Brown/Green	K Line. Cl. 71 ECM, cl. 3 control units SP "Norma"
19	Yellow/Blue	To the APS LED indicator of the instrument cluster, cl. 8 control units SP "Norma"
20	Orange	Terminal 15 ignition switch

III. Immobilizer and alarm matching.
(information from Hass-Doddev.narod.ru)

Often, when installing an alarm on VAZ vehicles equipped with an APS-4 immobilizer, the same problem arises - the immobilizer gives a delay in smoothly turning off the lights in the cabin. The car cannot be put on the alarm until the light in the cabin goes out, because. the alarm is usually connected to the wire going to the ceiling (see the standard connection diagram). Some alarm models contain the arming delay function, but if this is not the case, this undoubted inconvenience can be easily eliminated.

Comment. The schemes and methods used here relate primarily to cars of the VAZ-2110 family. However, with minor modifications, they may well be applied to cars of the VAZ-2109 family.

The most optimal way is to untie the limit switch circuits with diodes. Despite the fact that this method is quite laborious, it is the most successful, because. the function of smooth extinction of light is preserved. 5 diodes are added to the circuit. Almost any diodes, for current up to 1 A and a reverse voltage of 20 volts. It is most convenient to connect three diodes and wires to them at the BSC. Two diodes at the driver's door - directly at the limit switch, and from there drag the wire to the rest of the diodes.

The alarm is most often connected to the ceiling wire under the trim of the left windshield pillar. There this connection should be looked for first of all in order to switch the wire from the alarm to diodes.

The above circuit can be greatly simplified by applying the decoupling circuit (bottom figure) using only one diode.

The following method excludes the function of smooth damping of the ceiling and requires disassembly of the immobilizer unit. Having disassembled it, you can see a large transistor on the printed circuit board, one of the conclusions of which is connected to the output No. 10 of the immobilizer. It is enough to unsolder this transistor pin from the connector to solve the problem.

Another method that excludes the system of smooth light extinction, however, does not require disassembly of the immobilizer unit and is not as laborious as the previous method. To implement it, it is necessary to insert only one diode into the wire from the 20th contact of the immobilizer to the limit switch. You need to look for this wire under the console. The immobilizer itself is located above the injection controller, vertically. From its connector comes a thin single wire, the color is green with a black stripe. It should be found and a diode inserted into it with an anode to the immobilizer.

IV. Writing information to the EEPROM of the BOSCH M154 ECU

As you know, in the Bosch M1 .5 .4 system, it is easiest to write meaningful data to the EEPROM 24 C02 with an external programmer. To do this, you need to solder the microcircuit, which presents some difficulties. requires appropriate skills and tools. In addition, you also need a programmer for this type of microcircuit. Although, if there is a “clean” new eeprom, you can safely solder it - the first time you turn on the ECU, it will write new data into it.

Program Writer written by A. Mikheenkov ( ALMI Software) allows you to slightly simplify the process of programming Bosch M1 .5 .4 EEPROM by preparing a special firmware, which, when installed in the ECU, will write your data into the EEPROM itself. This is very convenient if you always need to record the same data (for example, a password to protect the firmware or some non-standard identifier, etc.). In this case, you only need to prepare ROM 27 C512 once, which will contain the program that flashes the EEPROM. The whole programming process will be to install this ROM and turn on the power for a few seconds. For greater safety, an indication of the successful completion of the operation using the Check Engine lamp is provided.

The principle of working with the program is very simple: you open a file containing an EEPROM image that you want to write to the computer, and the program creates a firmware file that you need to flash into ROM 27 C512. Along the way, you can change some of the identification data stored in the EEPROM (VIN, body and engine number). By installing the received ROM in the ECU and turning on the ignition for a few seconds, you will write the data to the EEPROM.

In the future, ALMI Software plans to write a program that works via K‑Line (only the “interface” will be in the ROM, and data can be written directly from your files on the computer).

Program combi set from Uncle Sam (SMS-Software) will help you write data to eepom directly to the ECU, if the main ROM is soldered, you do not want to unsolder it or where it is impossible and impractical, for example, Bosch MP7 .0 ECU

V. Procedures for activating immobilizers.

MTA activation algorithm with code keys

Turn on the ignition, the APS LED lights up
Bring the red key
Turn off the ignition without removing the red key.
Short peep. The APS LED should start flashing.
Bring 1 black key.
Bring 2 black key.
Squeak. The LED goes out for a while.
Bring the red key.
Squeak. The LED lights up.
Turn on the ignition.
Squeak. The LED goes out. (On MP7.0, the LED continues to burn. You must turn off the ignition no later than after 10 seconds.)
Switch off the ignition.

How to activate the immobilizer where it is read directly from the key, for example, on Kalina or Priore?

Fill the car with at least 10 liters of gasoline so as not to get confused in squeaks.

Collect the black key.
Close doors.
Turn on the ignition with the RED key.
3 peeps. Pull out the key.
Quickly (within 5-6 seconds) turn on the ignition with BLACK.
3 peeps + 2 peeps.
Quickly (within 5-6 seconds) turn on the RED ignition
3 peeps + 2 peeps.
Switch off the ignition KEY IN THE LOCK.
1 peep.
Quickly (within 5-6 seconds) turn on the ignition for 5 SECONDS!!! (Attention!!! Be sure to wait for the bibikalki - an ambush in this place).
The emergency flasher flashed, the signal beeped
Switch off the ignition. KEY IN THE LOCK until the typewriter on the panel goes out.

More detailed instructions

A. Close all vehicle doors. Turn on the ignition with the learning key and wait at least 6 seconds in the on state.

B. Switch off the ignition. The lamp should flash rapidly (5 times per second) as long as the learning procedure is being performed correctly. If the lamp stops flashing quickly, it indicates an incorrect operation, out of time, or a malfunction. Remove the learning key from the ignition.

C. While the lamp is flashing (about 6 seconds), it is necessary to insert the working key into the lock and turn on the ignition. If everything is done correctly, the buzzer will emit three beeps when the ignition is turned on.

D. Wait with the ignition on (about 6 seconds) until the buzzer emits two more beeps. If after 6 seconds the buzzer did not sound, and the fast flashing of the light stopped, then you need to turn off the ignition and start the procedure again. If the situation repeats, then this means a malfunction or that this working key has already been trained with another immobilizer.

E. Switch off the ignition.

F. If it is necessary to learn a second working key, then repeat steps C ... E, using the second learning working key to turn on the ignition. If not, continue execution from point G.

G. While the lamp is flashing (about 6 seconds), you must remove the key from the ignition, insert the learning key into the lock again and turn on the ignition. If everything is done correctly, the buzzer will emit three beeps when the ignition is turned on.

H. Wait with the ignition on (about 6 seconds) until the buzzer emits two more beeps.

I. Switch off the ignition. Do not remove the learning key from the ignition. Approximately 6 seconds after the ignition is turned off, the buzzer should give a single beep and the lamp should start flashing twice as fast. If the buzzer did not emit a sound signal, and the rapid flashing of the light stopped, then you must turn off the ignition and start the procedure again. If the situation repeats, then this means a malfunction or that this learning key does not fit this controller.

J. Not later than 6 seconds after the beep (while the lamp is flashing quickly), you must turn on the ignition with the same learning key. After waiting 2-3 seconds, turn off the ignition. Not later than 5 seconds after turning off the ignition, the buzzer should give three beeps, and the light should stop flashing quickly. Do not turn on the ignition for at least another 10 seconds. When working with some controllers, the light bulb stops flashing and the buzzer emits 3 beeps already when the ignition is turned on. In this case, you should still turn off the ignition and wait at least 10 seconds.

At the end of the learning procedure, it may be necessary to resynchronize the immobilizer and controller codes. This means that after the learning procedure is completed, the controller will not allow the engine to be started when the ignition is turned on for the first time. To carry out resynchronization, it is necessary to turn on the ignition with any trained key (preferably a working one). Wait 6 seconds. If the immobilizer lamp began to show an error condition (blinks 1 time per second), then turn off the ignition and wait at least 10 seconds. Then turn on the ignition again. The lamp should not flash, and the engine should start. If 3 seconds after the ignition is turned on, the lamp lights up with a constant light, this means that the controller has not activated the anti-theft function and the learning procedure should be repeated again.