What happens to the unpainted parts of a bicycle when it sits in the rain? Naturally, they rust, and this is clearly visible in the photo below.
Over the weekend I decided to paint the steering wheel myself.
This is what he looks like

On closer inspection it's even worse.


We take it off and start actively sanding.


Having gotten rid of the rust, the steering wheel began to look great (compared to what it was). Next up was painting with primer.
I just painted at about 8 pm; it was dark and cool outside, which is not good.


This morning I observed the following. The paint had dried, but there were some pimples, and I somehow overdid it, so there was a lot of excess underneath.
I decided not to continue right away, but to give it another half a day to dry in the sun.


And at this time he took up the seatpost. His condition is a little better, but still.


I sanded it quite quickly and, for the sake of experiment, painted it without primer, straight away with an aerosol.
I wonder how long the paint will last?

Of course, the paint didn’t fit perfectly, but we were happy about that.


While the pin was drying, I continued my work with the steering wheel, began to treat it with zero sandpaper, grinding off all the bumps and other nasty things.


When the surface took on a more or less smooth appearance, the steering wheel was also painted.


It took another day and a half for the paint to dry and the “spare parts” were returned to their places.






Of course, this is not a factory paint job, but I am pleased with the result. It remains to be seen how long the paint will last and whether it will peel off in a couple of weeks.

Factory bicycle paint sooner or later loses its shine, and often acquires “life scars”: chips, scratches, rust deposits. Returning your favorite vehicle to its former shine and shine or radically changing its design at your own discretion - every cyclist can do all this with his own hands and at home.

What is necessary

To paint your iron friend you will need not only aerosol car paint of a suitable shade, but also other consumables and tools:

• Screwdriver, wrenches of different sizes;
• Putty or mastic;
• Primer;
• Sanding paper with grit 80, 220 and 1200;
• Degreaser or special car wipe;
• Brush, spray;
• Masking tape;
• Rag, sponge;
• Respirator, gloves, safety glasses.

For colorful work, it is better to choose a spacious, ventilated, illuminated room or an outdoor place protected from direct sunlight. It is advisable to hang the frame and other parts of the bicycle on a wire or clothesline so as not to leave unpainted areas.

The required number of cylinders with paints and varnishes is calculated individually. Based on the calculation that a standard bicycle requires 2-3 aerosols of paint, primer and varnish.

Painting stages

The whole process can be divided into several stages: preparatory, disassembling, sanding, painting and final.

Each step is important, so let's look at them in more detail.

General preparation

The first stage includes all the preparatory actions: thinking about the future design, purchasing consumables, searching for the necessary tools. Particular attention is paid to safety. So, if possible, wear an apron, gloves, a respirator, goggles, and the work area is covered with film or old newspapers.

Disassembling the bike

Before painting the bike, it is disassembled and all parts and spare parts that do not need updating are removed. This is done as carefully and consistently as possible so as not to deform or break anything. For non-professionals, it is better to seek help from specialists or available instructions.

Preparing the surface

Anything that is not planned to be painted, for example, logos, inscriptions, drawings, must be carefully and accurately sealed with tape. Threaded areas are protected in a similar way.

1. The surface is degreased with a special product (White spirit) or a universal car wipe.
2. Use P80 grit paper to remove the old coating (for carbon frames the use of sandpaper is prohibited).
3. Using putty or mastic, all unevenness, damage, corrosion and dents are eliminated.
4. After drying, the smooth surface is sanded again and cleaned of dust.
5. A thin (about 5 mm) layer of corrosion-resistant primer is applied. It is taken into account that the final shade depends on the color of the primer.

It is important to choose the correct consistency of the primer, which ideally should completely drain from the brush. A solution that is too thick is diluted with a solvent, and a liquid solution is added to the mixture. To cover hard-to-reach areas as much as possible, the bicycle frame is suspended from the ceiling and treated with an air gun.

All primed parts are left to dry overnight in a suspended state or carefully placed on dry newspapers.

After 24 hours, the dry surface is wetted and carefully sanded with P220 paper.

Let's start painting

Direct work with the paint can is the most important and painstaking stage. The first step is to carefully read these instructions and protect your skin from the toxicity of the paint.

The paint is sprayed evenly until a uniform coating is formed. If the design of the bike involves an ornament of several shades, then first the lightest of them is applied in 3-4 layers, which, after drying, is sealed with tape. Then the coating is done in a similar way with other colors, ending with the darkest tone.

Using masking tape you can not only make geometric patterns, but also any other ornaments. To do this you need to use your imagination and scissors.

Some experts note that it is better to paint a bike using the powder method, which is more reliable, durable and resistant to negative environmental influences.

If necessary, other parts of the bicycle are also painted: handlebars, forks, wheels, pedals.

Final processing

The final steps include sanding the frame again with the highest grit paper possible and keeping the surface damp.

Before varnishing, the vehicle is optionally decorated with labels, emblems or other suitable decorative elements. Also, if you have talent, you can paint the surface with a bright contrasting color or use a stencil.

The end result is fixed with 2-3 layers of varnish, which is sprayed at a distance of 5-10 cm to avoid the appearance of roughness and unevenness. It is worth noting that only matte paints need to be varnished, so find out in advance whether it contains varnish.

A freshly painted bike needs to dry completely, which takes about a week on average. Previously, assembling an iron friend was risky: uncured paint and varnish are easily damaged.

The strength of the coating is checked by lightly moving a blunt knife, the sliding of which means complete drying.

The following recommendations and tips will help make your work easier and reduce risks:

• Use paints and varnishes from the same manufacturer to avoid causing a possible negative chemical reaction;
• Accurately calculate the required volume of consumables, or better yet, purchase cans for future use in order to carry out local “repairs” in the future;
• If the old coating cannot be removed with sandpaper, use a wire brush on a drill or an angle grinder with wire bristles. A thermal hair dryer and spatula are also suitable for this purpose;
• It is easier to defeat rust with special anti-corrosion substances and products;
• Old stickers can only be removed with sandpaper, since the solvent only causes the glue to smudge;
• Wet sanding will give the frame a matte finish if you keep the surface damp with glass cleaner during the process.
• When assembling the bike after painting, lubricate the bearings, internal mechanisms, and springs to increase their wear resistance.

You can update your bicycle transport both in the showroom and in your home workshop. At the same time, the second option is more economical, more interesting, and more productive. Only by painting yourself will you be able to fully control the process, evaluate the quality of materials and realize your dreams in an individual design.

The main thing is not to deviate from the proposed algorithm, listen to the recommendations and not be lazy. Then your freshly painted bike will delight you for a long time and cause the envy of your neighbors.

If you have a nice old bike that you want to bring back to life, it probably needs a paint job. This article is about how to paint a bicycle at home. Why buy a new bike and spend money if your old bike looks like new after repair.

Step 1: What you need to paint your bike.

To paint a bike we will need:

• bike;
• to disassemble the bike (keys, screwdrivers, etc.);
• sandpaper to remove rust and;
• razor to remove stickers;
• scotch;
• strong wire to hang the bike;
• primer (for a large bike you will need two cans);
• paint (for a large bike you will need two cans and it is advisable to use the same brand of paint as the primer);
• transparencies;
• a clean workplace with good ventilation and exhaust.

Step 2: Disassemble the bike.

First of all, remove all components from the bike that do not need to be painted: switches, switches, etc. When disassembling the bike, try not to lose small parts. You can put them in a zippered bag. Complex parts can be photographed so you know what to do with them as you assemble the bike.

Needs painting, removal and... You can also paint smaller parts, such as brakes, but you will have to disassemble them first.

While disassembling the bike, you can also determine what has worn out and needs to be replaced.

First, you should remove the entire body kit, and then remove the handlebars, front fork and seatpost. By completely disassembling the bike, we will simplify the painting process.

Step 3: Preparing the bike for painting.

Use a razor to remove all stickers and other markings, such as the manufacturer's logo, from the bike. They can be cut off or simply scraped off. and then clean it with paper towels soaked in alcohol to remove any grease or dust that may have been left behind by the sandpaper.

Apply tape to areas that need to be protected from paint, such as the carriage and steering column bearings. Or you can simply remove them.

You also need to make sure that the place where you are going to paint your bike is clean and free of dust as much as possible. Make sure that there is no dust flying in the air, which could get on the wet paint and ruin your entire work. In addition, you need to hang the frame so that you can paint it completely in one go. In my case, I hung my bike in the garage on a beam, which has helped me out more than once. Before that, I also removed the car and everything unnecessary. Hook the bike onto a stiff wire and hang it on the beam.

Let's start priming the bike. Before applying the primer, first read the instructions for it. Be sure to provide good ventilation. Don't neglect her. The fumes are very harmful to health. Warnings about this are written in the instructions for a reason. If you are working indoors, you can open the door and turn on the fan. If you feel unwell or slightly dizzy while working, stop working and go out into the fresh air.

The primer from the can should be sprayed with long and smooth movements at a distance of 25 cm from the object. It's best to start at the frame tube and bottom bracket junctions, as these are the hardest to reach. Apply the primer in thin layers rather than one or two thick coats.

After applying the primer, sand the frame to achieve a really smooth finish.

Step 4: Paint the bike.

When the primer is completely dry (the drying time is indicated in the instructions), you can proceed directly to painting the bike. If you decide to paint your bike in two colors, then first decide which color paint you will apply first. Usually light-colored paint comes first. The second paint can be applied only after the first paint has dried. On my bike, I painted the frame one color and the fork and handlebars another, thereby emphasizing my individuality.

Step 5: Shut down.

After the paint has dried, you can remove the tape from the bike. Just make sure to apply the paint in several layers first, as indicated on the can.

Before assembling the bike, allow it to dry thoroughly for several days. This will reduce the chances of damaging wet paint while assembling your bike.

Collect and. Take a ride on it.

After about two weeks, you can start coating the bike with varnish, since by this time the paint will have completely hardened. Although in cold weather it may take longer.

Now you have one that is indistinguishable from new and which cost you very little.

With your favorite bike, time flies by. With frequent trips, it is sometimes not possible to see how the bicycle gradually loses its attractiveness: it becomes dull, becomes covered with small scratches, chips and even rust. All this has a negative impact not only on the appearance of the frame, but also on its service life: pipes that are susceptible to corrosion due to scratches will not last long.

If an old bicycle is “retired” forever, then there is no point in extending its service life. But many cyclists do not want to abandon their comrades and resort to complete or partial renewal.

One of these includes eliminating defects, painting and varnishing the frame. Spray painting has become widespread, and for good reason. You won't be able to apply an even layer of paint to the frame pipes with a regular brush. Due to its ease and speed, this method has found active independent use. How to paint a bicycle using a spray can at home will be discussed in this short article.

Disassembling the bike and preparing the frame

So, we found out that the color of a bicycle is determined by its frame. You will also have to paint the fork and possibly the trunk. Before painting you need to completely disassemble the bike:

1. Remove all awnings: brakes, shock absorbers, etc.
2. Remove the front wheel from the fork dropouts and the fender (if equipped).
3. Unscrew the steering wheel from the fork.
4. Remove the trunk.
5. Remove the rear wheel and fender.

When only the bare frame remains, remove the fork from the front pipe.

Preparatory stages:

1. Removing the old paint layer.
2. Smoothing out irregularities.
3. Degreasing the metal surface.

What is necessary? Old paint is removed with a solvent. Using a clean rag soaked in it, we carefully go through all the pipes and especially over the welding joints. You may have to repeat the procedure. This depends on the thickness of the factory paint layer. After cleaning, the frame is thoroughly wiped with a dry soft cloth. If light stains remain, it is not recommended to wet the surfaces with water; it is better to go over it again with a solvent.

The next stage is sanding. All small scratches, chips and corrosion areas are removed with sandpaper. Depending on the depth of the scratches, the grit of the sandpaper is selected: 240 sandpaper will cope with small defects; 80 sandpaper will be suitable for removing chips and rust.

“Sanding” cleaning from unevenness

Removing greasy stains– also a necessary procedure to properly paint the frame and fork of a bicycle. Fat content reduces the adhesion of primer and paint to the metal, which is why the paint can fall off very quickly. To prevent this from happening, be sure to use a degreasing agent, such as white spirit.

The cleaned frame of the bike can be primed

Priming surfaces for painting

The finished frame and fork are freely placed or suspended. The second option is more convenient; there will definitely be no unprimed areas left. Work should be carried out in well-ventilated areas. If you are going to paint at home, it will be a canopy or utility room in a private house and a balcony in an apartment. The parts need to be hung firmly and at the same time freely, so that it is easy to apply the primer. You need to take care in advance that the composition and paint do not end up where they shouldn’t, as well as about your own safety: prepare gloves, a mask and goggles.

We buy a can of primer in the store and evenly distribute the composition over the surfaces of the parts to be painted: frame, fork, trunk. The optimal number of layers to be applied is 3. Before applying the next portion, you need to wait for the first layer to dry.

When all the primer has been applied, the parts are left for a day. The area where priming and painting is carried out should not be too humid and there should be no source of open flame. After a 24-hour break, the primer is sanded with fine-grained sandpaper (from 400 to 600) in places where the layer thickens. The bike is now completely ready for paint.

Applying paint using a spray can

Using a disposable spray can is very simple, so there are usually few questions about this type of work. However, there are several rules to achieve better results. Following these simple recommendations will help you paint quickly and at the same time correctly:

• apply paint gradually, in a thin layer;
• keep the sprayer at a distance;
• paint from top to bottom;
• Avoid using too much paint.

The recommended number of layers is up to three. A lack of paint will cause it to wear out quickly, and too much paint will cause cracking and chipping. We make sure to let each layer dry, and only then do we begin applying the next one. Fully painted parts should be cured for 1 to 2 days.

Painting the frame

Acrylic paints in spray cans are best suited for bicycles. They lay down easier and set faster. The color scheme in stores is presented to suit every taste, the main thing is to think about the shade in advance. It’s unlikely that you’ll be able to get by with just one can, so it’s recommended to take two or three at once. Is it necessary to sand dry paint? In principle, if it was distributed evenly and accurately, then it is not necessary. Small smudges are removed with fine-grain sandpaper. We pre-wet it in water so as not to leave even a small scratch.

Finishing touches: drawings and varnishing

Some will not limit themselves to a monochromatic coloring of their two-wheeled friend, and rightly so. Emblems and symbols will give the bike its own originality, and it will look more elegant. You can use stickers as a simple option, but paint-applied labels look much more reliable and beautiful.

Additional elements are created using stencils - special self-adhesive films with free cut out designs. There are various options on sale: stripes, patterns, figures, letters, etc. If you wish and have a penchant for creativity, you can cut out stencils yourself from simple sheets of adhesive film.

Film with a pattern for dyeing

Important: when gluing stencils, you must make sure that the base paint has already dried, otherwise when removing the film it will peel off or smudge, and you will have to redo everything all over again!

The procedure for creating patterns is simple. You need to do the following:

1. Attach the stencil tightly to the frame tube or fork.
2. Using a spray can, spray paint onto the stencil.
3. Wait until completely dry.
4. Peel the film from the surface. The drawing is ready!

When spraying, it is allowed for the paint to extend onto the film itself - the design will have smoother edges. We make sure that it does not flow beyond the stencil. To be on the safe side, you can additionally cover the surface with a simple film along the edges of the painting area.

And finally, the last stage is applying varnish to the surface. It is not difficult to guess that varnish must be purchased in cans, just like paint and primer. The protective coating must be applied in the same way as layers of paint, the number of layers is one or two. Do not leave unvarnished areas free, otherwise the paint in these areas will begin to age faster. There is an opinion that varnishing is a waste of time. This is debatable, since the varnished surface not only looks more beautiful, but also lasts much longer.

Spray painting is an easy and effective way to update your bike without professional painting skills. One time is enough to remember how and what is done to gain invaluable experience in this area.

The article is dedicated to those who have already stripped the frame so much that they are ashamed to go outside and to those who simply like to experiment without being afraid to pick up a tool.

A little about the paint and varnish material:

1. white spirit is used for degreasing, any other will do (sold at any hardware store);
2. solvent (it is better to buy at auto markets), depends on the paint, but is approximately distributed as follows: 646, 648,649,650 - in principle suitable for any car paints, but I advise using 650. 647 - for nitro enamels;
3. 3-primer, used to prepare the surface for painting (the paint adheres to it much better; the primer fills in small irregularities; the surface turns out to be mirror-like);
4. dye;

I don’t think it’s worth saying that first of all it would be a good idea to remove everything from the frame.

Stage 1. Preparing the frame for painting.

It consists of sanding the frame until all irregularities (scratches, possibly stickers) are completely smoothed out. You can sand out completely, you can only sand out uneven areas, in both cases you need to sand out extremely carefully, otherwise you will end up with very unpleasant holes and unevenness. We select the sandpaper depending on the depth of the scratches, but in no case should it leave deep scratches on the frame or paint. You can use paint removers (sold in car stores, cost about 50 rubles a tube), but then clean the surface thoroughly, otherwise all your work will swell, literally. Do not try to use a hair dryer to remove paint; you may damage the frame.

Also at this stage, using cold welding (see fig.) (price 30 rubles per forging) you can eliminate (eliminate from the point of view of appearance) particularly large scratches, dents, or simply embellish something. For example, I eliminated sharp transitions on Kharkov bicycles, since the frame is not welded, but the links are simply inserted into each other. When working with xc, I do not recommend putting too much on the frame, as it is quite difficult to process (process with rough sandpaper or a knife).

Stage 2. Preparing the surface of the frame directly for painting.

I can’t call this stage mandatory, since if you don’t prime, nothing dangerous will happen (in 50% of cases), but I’ll list the reasons why it still needs to be done:

1. paint adheres to the primer much better than to the frame (both in terms of quality and in terms of chemical interaction), it’s not for nothing that primer was invented in the first place;
2. using soil it is very easy to achieve an ideal surface, which will naturally have a positive effect on the final result;
3. It’s worth considering that many paints may simply not adhere (for example, the effect may be that the paint curls up in droplets on the frame) on a “bare” frame;
4. if you have not completely sanded the frame, then primer is required, since your previous paint and the new one may have different bases, and they may begin to react with each other, and the primer will act as a kind of “adapter”;
5. a primed frame is more resistant to corrosion;

Next, you need to decide on the priming method: Unlike paint, here you can paint equally well, both from a spray can and from a spray bottle. In both cases, I recommend using Fitter primer; it is relatively cheap, and the quality is slightly inferior to more expensive primers (price 1 kg, 200 rubles; a can, about 100-200 rubles):

But still, the cans have one significant drawback: for priming it is advisable to use thick soil (so that all the unevenness is filled in), and the can, as a rule, due to the low pressure, contains liquid, therefore, instead of one “thick” layer, you will have to put several “ liquid."

If you decide to take it for bottling, you will need:

Progress:

1. place the frame in a ventilated area (for example: balcony, garage...);
2. thoroughly degrease the frame (for example, with white spirit);
3. if it’s a spray can: shake the can and carefully apply in small strokes, at a distance of about 15-25cm from the frame)

   If using a spray bottle: dilute the primer in the proportion indicated on the can (as a rule, all primers come in 3 components: the base is the primer itself, hardener, solvent - purchased separately), add solvent to the desired thickness (take a stick, dip it into the soil, if the primer is light drips down without leaving droplets on the stick, then everything is fine; if there is a drop left at the end of the stick, add solvent). Try painting on anything: if the surface shows through the primer, add a little base (that is, the primer itself); if droplets or scraps of paint fly out of the sprayer, add solvent. Paint the same way as with a spray can. If smudges have formed, then at this stage it is not a problem, but it is unacceptable when covering with paint. And try not to go through the same place more than 2-3 times.

4. let it dry for about a day at a temperature not lower than 5 degrees, if the temperature is lower, let it dry longer;
5. if necessary, add another layer (if the previous one was too liquid, or if there are small irregularities on the frame);
6. Using fine sandpaper (about 200 grit), lightly sand until the surface is perfect (good primers, for example Fitter, are very easy to sand);

Stage 3. Painting.

The last is the most difficult and painful stage. The hard part is choosing paint. I'll tell you about the most common types of machine paint. Let me make a reservation that I have been using exclusively acrylic paints for a long time.

There are a number of disadvantages to consider when painting.

1. almost all colors look good only on a white surface (this means that first you will need to paint with white paint, and only then with the color of your choice)
2. if you want to make a transition: firstly, put dark paint on light (although not always, but if you haven’t painted before, it’s better to do this)
3. When painting, the thicker the layer, the richer the color, but in no case do not add too much. Remember the golden rule when painting, especially if you are painting for the first time - “it’s better to under-water than over-water.” But if a drip does appear, remove the frame and turn the back drip to the side; as soon as it drips in the other direction, turn it back, and so on several times until the paint sets a little.

Naturally, the question of spray can or sprayer arises again:

Why puller:

1. The quality of the paint is an order of magnitude higher, and so is the price;
2. the ability to choose a color depends only on your imagination;
3. buy the right amount of paint (for example, you decided to make the tips of the feathers a different color (relative to the frame), instead of buying a whole can, you buy 20g of paint);

Why spray can:

1. the most important thing is ease of use;
2. saving time;
3. saving money, accordingly this will affect the quality (in most cases);

Progress:

1. wipe the frame very well with white spirit; if you spray paint steps 2 and 3, you can skip them
2. dilute the paint (that is, if there is a hardener, add a hardener), “regulate” the density in the same way as in the soil;
3. wash the airbrush with solvent; if you paint it white, make sure that the airbrush is perfectly clean (otherwise the white paint may acquire tints)
4. apply the paint in small strokes, trying not to go over one place more than 2 times, make sure that the spray gun (spray can) when painting is always at the same distance from the frame and is perpendicular to it (so that the paint is applied in equal layers);
5. if necessary, apply other layers of paint
6. if you paint, for example, with nitro-metallic, varnish (in general, you need to varnish if the paint requires it, but it just doesn’t do anything, naturally it depends on the paint, for example, this is not required for acrylic)
7. let it dry for several days (even if the paint has dried in a few hours)

Comments on the article

Avalanche

“almost all colors look good only on a white surface (this means that first you will need to paint with white paint, and only then with the color you have chosen)” - it is always better to put paint on the primer, so to make the process easier and cheaper, we buy white primer accordingly, maybe black. As I noticed, if the paint was applied to a white primer, the color turned out lighter and brighter, when applied to black it was darker and deeper. I used black and was pleased! I painted it with metallic and under varnish - it turned out awesome, the color shimmers in the sun, shine!! I advise you to first try the paint on different surfaces, for example, I tried mine on white and it turned out to suck! I thought the paint wasn’t very good, but I tested it on black and it turned out awesome!

ARMAGEDDON

super...can you teach me something else? =)

ZAYCHEGG

Thanks a lot

ballio

Great prices. Standard paint costs $100-150 per kg and is sold exclusively in whole cans, where the author saw 20 grams, who knows. MIXON primer, for example, dries in an apartment for up to 2 days. Apply at least 2 layers. The paint dries from 2 weeks to 2 months, depending on the ambient temperature. Each layer of paint is sanded with sandpaper from 2000 to 5000, depending on the “softness” of the acrylic. Let the layer dry for 24 hours, then sand gloss, remove the smudges), then another layer. The last layer, in theory, should be perfect and without smudges, but if not, then we polish it and then polish it with a special wheel for an angle grinder and polish. I repainted a bunch of things this way and it’s fine. I even painted the connecting rods white.

vvs

"Cool prices. Normal paint costs $100-150 per kg and is sold exclusively in whole cans, where the author saw 20 grams, who the hell knows. MIXON primer, for example, dries in an apartment for up to 2 days. Apply at least 2 layers. The paint dries from 2 weeks to 2 months, depending on the ambient temperature. Each layer of paint is sanded with sandpaper from 2000 to 5000, depending on the “softness” of the acrylic. Let the layer dry for 24 hours, then sand (knock down the gloss, remove smudges), then again layer. The last layer, in theory, should be perfect and without smudges, but if not, then we chug it and then polish it with a special wheel for an angle grinder and polish. I repainted a bunch of everything this way and it’s fine. I even painted the connecting rods white.” and now let’s look at it in order, so that you don’t confuse people with incorrect information;

vvs

"normal paint starts at an average of $80 per kg; is sold on tap in any painting shop (paint sub-shop), as well as in many stores; any quantity can be poured; normal primer, for example, inexpensive Novol, dries for several hours - ideal for sanding; and yes - it applies beautifully in one coat; the same wonderful acrylic paint dries in about 24-48 hours and then sands and polishes wonderfully for two months? Maybe they forgot to give you a hardener?)))) let's move on - what are you thinking about? I don’t know, especially with such small sandpapers) I’m even wondering where you found the 5000 sandpaper))) for grinding a pair in an internal combustion engine, and then several layers are needed; I also wonder why we waste extra material and money - well, we can polish it in principle; Yes, the idea is correct, but not for everyone and not with a grinder - it is not suitable for this either with handles or a polishing machine;