Reading time: 8 minutes. Views 279 Published February 15, 2016

Many motorists believe that changing the oil in a car engine is a simple job that can be done independently. Some believe that this process requires an inspection hole to drain the old oil. Other motorists do without an inspection hole. We will try to dispel the myth that changing the oil is a simple job that you can do yourself. In fact, it is best to trust this procedure to professionals at a service station.

At any service station, mechanics will tell you that it is not recommended to change the engine oil yourself, as you can make a mistake and harm the car’s engine. Many may think that this is how service providers hide their desire to earn extra money from others. Is this really so, we will try to figure it out.

Inexperience of drivers and common mistakes when changing engine oil

Surprisingly, inexperienced drivers who try to change the oil in a car engine on their own often make serious mistakes that lead to the repair of vehicle components and assemblies. We will give several examples.

One of the servicemen told such a case. Once a car enthusiast drove a budget new foreign car to a service station to check the gearbox. He stated that his transmission began to hum. After inspection, the servicemen were convinced that the gearbox was indeed humming abnormally. As you know, the first cause of transmission hum may be a lack of lubricants inside. The mechanics went to check the oil level in the gearbox using a dipstick and were very surprised. It turned out that the gearbox was completely dry. At the same time, the plug on the oil drain neck from the gearbox was tightened. The owner of the car was immediately asked what they had done with this car. The owner of the car was surprised and stated that no repairs or inspections had been carried out on the gearbox before. He also stated that he had recently changed the oil in the car’s engine with his own hands.

The history of self-replacement forced the wary mechanics to check the level of this lubricant in the engine. And then everything fell into place. It turns out that the owner of the car, instead of the engine crankcase filler plug, unscrewed the gearbox filler plug. He ended up draining the oil from the gearbox instead of the engine. After this, the car owner, strictly according to the instructions, poured 3 liters of oil into the engine on top of the 3 liters that remained in it. And the owner didn’t even bother to look at the dipstick. As a result, an error by an inexperienced driver led to the gearbox operating without oil. At the same time, the engine worked with double its volume. It’s good that the car owner called for service on time. Transmission oil was poured into the gearbox. However, no defects in the operation of the gearbox were observed. So the checkpoint was saved. I was just as lucky with the car's engine. Excessive pressure did not squeeze out the seals. The service workers drained all 6 liters into a drain container, after which it was necessary to fill in new oil in a volume of 3 liters.

There is also a more prosaic case. One mechanic said that his friend also decided to change the engine oil in his car himself. However, after draining the old oil, he forgot to close the engine crankcase neck. This car enthusiast poured new oil through the upper neck, tightened it and did not bother to check the oil level with a dipstick. As a result, all the oil leaked out through the lower neck, and after a few kilometers a knock appeared in the engine.

Wrong ways to change engine oil

There are not only mistakes when changing the oil in a car engine yourself, but also the use of incorrect methods for changing it. So, many car enthusiasts and service station workers purchase vacuum units to change engine oil. At first glance, this makes the work easier, since you do not need to have an inspection hole or a lift to drain the engine oil through the neck of the engine crankcase. A vacuum unit is used for this procedure. It can suck oil out of the engine through the dipstick hole.

It seems like a convenient device, but it makes changing engine oil poor quality. The fact is that old oil with many metal particles and carbon deposits remains at the bottom of the crankcase. It is this dirt that needs to be gotten rid of when replacing, but here it simply remains in the engine. After which new oil is poured in and mixed with this dirt. In other words, there is no beneficial effect from such a replacement of engine oil for the engine and its service life.

We carry out proper oil changes in the car engine

First of all, there is a simple rule. Changing old oil is carried out on a warm engine. This means that this work must be carried out after a short drive or after a slight warm-up of the engine. After running the engine like this, you need to let it cool a little so that the pressure in the system decreases. Draining on a warm engine will be effective, since it will be much thinner and will drain faster in time.

It is best and fastest to drain the old oil from a warm engine.

To unscrew the engine crankcase filler cap, you may need a Torx wrench in the form of an asterisk. So, some automakers make the plug in the form of a regular bolt with a hexagonal star-shaped tip. It is best to drain old motor oil into a cut-off canister or drinking water bottle. Old oil must also be disposed of correctly. Don't pour it directly onto the ground. We already have a bad environment in the country. When draining the oil, you must wait until as much old fluid as possible drains out of the crankcase. At first there will be a thick stream of motor oil, then it will turn into drops. It is best to wait until as many drops of old as possible flow out of the crankcase. As usual, after this you need to check and remember to screw the engine crankcase filler cap back on.

Engine oil change interval: myths and reality

One of the main conditions that ensure the normal operation of your engine is the correct choice and timely replacement of engine oil. This substance is responsible for the life of the engine and its correct operation. Selecting the wrong type of oil or over-processing it can pose a potential threat to the performance of your vehicle.

Oil needs to be changed promptly and systematically - every motorist knows this.

- How often? - you ask.

- We need to look at the regulations! - every motorist will answer.

But there is a bit of inaccuracy in this answer. Have you ever wondered: why such regulations? Yes, because the car manufacturer has tested hundreds of these engines and subjected them to different loads. For the regulations, only one indicator is indicated. Therefore, to form it, only one generalized statistical indicator is taken. Traditionally this is 10-15 thousand kilometers.

Will the rules for changing engine oil be the same for lovers of fast and quiet driving, and for urban and suburban driving? The answer is clear - of course not!

The operating mode significantly affects the condition of the motor fluid, and therefore the schedule for its replacement.

Specifics of vehicle operation

The logical conclusion is that the regulations for “city” and “intercity” cars are different. We are talking about city traffic jams, when the oil and engine elements are exposed to high temperatures, natural crankcase ventilation is minimal and mileage is minimized. In this case, 100 km of travel in a traffic jam and 100 km of travel on the highway are two different performance indicators for the engine and different loads.

The difference in operating conditions in traffic jams and when driving on the highway is almost three times. Therefore, it is also necessary to take into account the timing of replacement. Some manufacturers additionally indicate approximate operating hours.

The most optimal operating conditions for the engine is driving on the highway at a speed of 110-120 km per hour. At the same time, the engine does not overheat, it operates at a third of its power (for the vast majority of engines), and the crankcase ventilation is simply excellent. However, not all 100% of engines fit this characteristic.

For fans of fast driving (also increased load on the engine) and those who are forced to stand in traffic jams, it is important to remember that under such operating conditions of the vehicle, the regulations are significantly reduced.

Optimal conditions for the oil to work in the engine: medium speed mode and short engine warm-ups (this does not mean that when you first start the engine you need to drive right away).

If you translate the standard oil change schedule of 15 thousand into engine hours, and compare it with the characteristics of city and country driving, you will get the following indicators:

• For traffic jams and slow city driving up to 25 km/h (which is very common), the replacement schedule is 7-10 thousand km.
• For country driving at a speed of more than 90 km/h, the generation resource can increase to 20 thousand km or more. However, it is not recommended to “overexpose” the oil in the engine even in such measured country driving conditions.

That is why every motorist and car owner needs to remember that the service regulations are just a weighted average indicator that does not include your individual component: driving habits, car mileage, operating conditions, city size, etc.

That is why you need to periodically monitor not only the level, but also the condition (color, consistency) of the engine oil. If necessary, you can turn to more experienced colleagues for a professional resume. 10 or 15 thousand kilometers is not the final verdict on replacement, everything is much more individual.

Exactly as much as the style and nature of driving, mileage and characteristics of the city influence, the correct choice of engine oil influences exactly the same. Natural, synthetic and semi-synthetic - they all have their own operating characteristics and advantages. When choosing, you can be guided by the recommendations of the manufacturer, advice from professionals or personal experience. The choice should be informed and consistent with the way you use your vehicle. Remember that the choice of oil is the key to the performance of the engine, its service life and technical and operational indicators.

If the engine oil is not changed for a long time, it can “kill” the engine. Therefore, it is worth discussing how to change engine oil, what the replacement interval is and why a new oil filter is installed.

Changing the engine oil of different brands of cars is not very different and follows the same pattern. First, select the appropriate oil based on the type and brand of engine. Next, warm up the engine to operating temperature. If it's warm, wait a few minutes to avoid getting burned. Then we find a suitable container where we will drain the waste liquid. An old canister will do if you cut off the side cap with a knife.

Next, unscrew the plug on the engine crankcase. This is usually the lowest point on the pallet, or check your owner's manual to be sure. We unscrew the plug with a wrench, and finally with our hands, because the oil will flow out immediately and quickly (place a container for draining in advance), otherwise you will lose the drain plug. The oil drains quickly, usually no more than five minutes. But it won’t be possible to drain it 100%. It's not scary, because... Usually no more than 2-3% of old fluid remains in the engine.

The old oil is drained, the color and the presence of foreign impurities are assessed. These factors determine whether the engine requires flushing or replacement without flushing is necessary. Afterwards, a new one is poured in and the oil filter is changed. At this point the work is completed.

When adding oil, constantly monitor the level using the dipstick - it should be between the "min" and "max" marks. Fill in 80% of the total volume and then top up, adjusting with the dipstick.

Replacement interval

Should the manufacturer's recommendations be followed? For modern engines, when the quality of oils improves, it is recommended to replace them after 10-15 thousand kilometers. This value is determined by the manufacturer under normal operating conditions. The worse the conditions, the earlier it needs to be changed.

What is considered difficult conditions? These include: frosts, frequent changes in temperature, humid climate, and high dust levels in the air. Frequent engine overloads (for example, in mountainous areas or when transporting heavy loads) also do not contribute to maintaining performance. Typically, if driving conditions are determined to be severe, it is recommended to reduce the mileage before replacement by 25-30 percent.

Operating a car in the city is equivalent to heavy duty - a sluggishly running plug kills oil just as actively as off-road driving, mountain driving or motorsports. Average replacement time: 5,000 - 7,000 km for mineral water and 10,000 - 12,000 km for synthetic.

Do I need to change the oil filter?

Yes, definitely. Working with a clogged engine filter is equivalent to working without it, because... the oil passes past the filter element. This is provided for by its design. With a mileage of 10,000 km, it will be clogged, which will lead to the opening of the bypass valve and the oil will go uncleaned. This results in intense engine wear. Although the emergency pressure light will not light up.

If you change the filter yourself, do not forget to fill it with oil to about half the volume (for a better “first” start) and lubricate the rubber band on the filter housing.

1. Choose your engine oil carefully. Buy those that meet the tolerances and approvals of the auto concern. Remember, viscosity is not the most important parameter. The article “choosing engine oil” will help you with your choice.

2. Do not overuse “express” substitutions. Vacuum replacement is bad because much more used oil remains in the engine than with traditional replacement using the drain method. Therefore, we alternate this method with the traditional one, while reducing the service interval or abandoning it altogether.

3. Change your oil more often! No air filter will capture all the dust and dirt that is present in the air. Accordingly, not a single fuel filter will retain impurities that are sold at gas stations along with fuel as a free bonus.

4. Do not use any additives and additives in motor oil! Additives can be harmful; the positive effect of such impurities can be short-lived (what are the types of additives).

5. Monitor the oil level using the marks on the dipstick. Not filling up to the bottom mark can lead to oil starvation of the rubbing parts, which will lead to their rapid wear. Overfilling also negatively affects the performance of rubbing parts. What to do if the oil is filled above the level.

6. Do not buy oil from dubious sellers! Fake products will 100% not meet the manufacturer’s requirements, so the motor will quickly fail. Buy only original products at branded gas stations or find the nearest store that sells reliable products. Metal canisters also serve as protection against counterfeiting.

Every owner of a vehicle wants its operation to be accompanied by as few breakdowns as possible. The fulfillment of this condition is directly related to the care of the components and mechanisms of the unit. Therefore, the first thing a user encounters when purchasing a car is periodically changing the engine oil.

Today no one questions the need for the procedure. The only thing that is controversial is the nuances associated with the frequency and method of work, as well as the characteristics of the materials used. So that changing the engine oil is not perceived by the car enthusiast as an insurmountable problem, let’s try to understand the details and prioritize in places.

Oil tasks

The design features and operating principle of the internal combustion engine lead to the fact that the parts of the unit constantly interact with each other, the process is accompanied by friction. The forces acting on the mechanism gradually wear out and render the motor unusable. In addition, a side effect of friction is the strong heating of parts, which leads to a physical change in the properties of the materials that make up the engine, and also further aggravates the flow of work processes.

Not a single design of a power plant using the principle of internal combustion can do without lubrication. Oil is a consumable material of the mechanism. The liquid has a number of properties, the most important of which is viscosity; the material creates a surface film on the parts and protects the motor. If it were not for the lubrication mechanism, the engine would not be able to function and perform as intended.

Synthetic and mineral oil:

Oil functions:

• Formation of a surface protective film on internal engine parts;
• Protection of coated engine surfaces from oxidation;
• Removal of impurities and slag from the rubbing surfaces of the engine to the filter element;
• Removal of excess heat from heated engine surfaces;
• Sealing connections of engine parts and components;
• Energy transmission and transformation.

In modern engines, the hydraulic valve compensator is the first mechanism to fail due to dirty oil. There is no need to talk about what role the part plays in the operation of the motor, however, oil is the main reason for the failure of the device.

The meaning and frequency of replacement

Before you begin the replacement process, you need to clearly define why this is being done. Considering the functions performed by oil, the engine’s need for this fluid is understandable. However, microscopic particles that accumulate in the motor do not disappear anywhere. Over time, the filter element that traps dirt and sediment becomes full. The particles are distributed throughout the lubrication system and act as an abrasive, leading to even greater wear. For this reason, proper engine oil change involves observing the frequency, using oil of the established standard, and also replacing the filter element.

Oil filter:

The frequency of oil changes is directly related to the type and design of the power unit. Only the manufacturer can give the correct answer; for this, read the instructions for the product. According to the standard, the terms are set based on the mileage of the car. For most internal combustion engines we are talking about 7000-10000 kilometers.

It is worth considering that the condition of the lubricant is influenced by many factors. Thus, changing the oil in a diesel engine is carried out earlier than in a gasoline unit. This is due to the design features of the motor, high thermal and power loads, and, as a consequence, early wear of the installation. In addition to the load, the speed limit, the type of oil used (mineral lubricant base loses its properties faster than synthetic base), climatic conditions, transportation of heavy loads and other parameters are taken into account.

Self-replacement

Changing engine oil is not a complicated process; if desired, each car owner can perform the procedure with his own hands, saving money on service. Provided that the deadline for the work has come, time, space and additional equipment are available, the operation involves the following actions:

• Read the engine instructions; each engine model has its own sequence of operations. The need to use tools (pullers, screwdrivers, etc.), as well as various methods of fixing elements, will affect the speed of the process.
• Prepare the tools and materials necessary for replacement (oil, filter, screwdrivers, waste container, wipes and other auxiliary equipment) depending on the model and design of the engine.
• Place the car on a level surface in such a way as to provide access to the engine sump. It is better to use an overpass, a garage with a pit, or a lift. If this is not the case, use a bump, or lift the car with a jack, placing each wheel on a stable support.

• Warm up the engine to operating temperature before draining the oil. After warming up, unscrew the nut in the oil pan, open the oil filler cap and remove the filter element.
• Wait until the waste flows into the prepared container.

• Based on the consistency of the used oil, determine the degree of engine wear, and also draw a conclusion about the performance of the type of oil.
• Based on the condition of the used oil, decide whether to use flushing or not.

Flushing in oil:

• Install a new filter element; before fastening the part, lubricate the rubber seal with oil. This will allow the filter to be securely in place and help create the necessary pressure in the system.

• Fill the system with fresh oil through the lubricant filler neck to the required level. Check the level using a dipstick, making sure that the oil does not go beyond the “minimum” and “maximum” marks.

• After filling in the new fluid, start the car and make sure that the lubricant pressure light goes out. Then let the engine run for ten minutes, turn off and check the level again. If necessary, add oil. During this period, check for oil leakage through the seals.

• After the car has traveled twenty kilometers, check the leaks and oil level again. If there are any shortcomings, correct the problem.

Engine flushing

Sometimes, when changing the oil, the vehicle owner decides to use engine flushing fluid. You must use this product carefully, after reading the instructions and making sure that there is no other way out. Violation of the rules of use and operation can lead to expensive repairs of the unit.

• Purchasing a used car. The new owner is not sure what kind of oil was used for the engine and is afraid that the lubricant he purchased is not compatible with the substance that was previously filled.
• Switching from one type of oil to another, for example, after using a mineral-based oil, a synthetic product will be added.
• Change of oil manufacturer. In this case, we are talking about the risk of incompatibility of the additive package in the liquids used.
• Operation in difficult conditions, failure to comply with the regulations for working with the engine, contamination of the oil channels.
• Fuel or cooling liquid getting into the lubricant due to engine malfunction.

The listed reasons are a reason for using flushing fluids, however, if there are no serious prerequisites for using the substances, it is better not to risk it and limit yourself to a classic lubricant change.

The flushing procedure depends on which liquid option is selected:

• Flushing oil. Today, the wash group is rare. Application boils down to draining the used oil, filling in the flushing oil and operating the engine for two or three days in a gentle mode using this substance. After which the flush is drained and standard oil is added.

Flushing oil:

• Additive to mining. The liquid is sold in the form of a 200-300 gram concentrate, which is added to the exhaust of a diesel or gasoline engine before draining. Or in the form of a flush, which is poured after draining the waste. After entering the engine, the unit is allowed to run for fifteen or twenty minutes, the waste is drained and fresh oil is added.
• "Five minutes." The cleaner is presented in the form of a concentrate, which is poured before draining the waste and the engine is allowed to run for five minutes. After which the oil is drained, along with the cleaner, and fresh lubricant is added.

Five-minute wash:

Considering that the cleaners contain alkali in large quantities, when using rinses, be prepared for the consequences associated with the impact on engine rubber products. The seals often suffer, the product hardens and cracks. In addition, a sharp impact on accumulated deposits tears them off and forces them to migrate through the lubrication system, clogging the oil receiver, filter, and oil channels.

Alternative replacement methods

Obviously, changing engine oil is not difficult. The only problem the user faces when doing the work themselves is access to the engine compartment. We solve this issue, install the machine on blocks or bricks, fix it with a jack, the main thing is to ensure access to the drain plug.

It is worth noting that in addition to the traditional oil change using the drain method, there are other ways to maintain a car. For example, express engine oil change. The principle is that the lubricant is not removed from the pan by draining, but is removed from there through the dipstick hole. To replace it yourself, use a syringe to pump out the oil. Before the procedure, the engine is warmed up, after which a tube is inserted into the hole and the oil is pumped out, creating a vacuum in the pan.

Manual oil pump:

The replacement method is not effective; it is recommended to use it in case of emergency. A vacuum oil change in the engine does not ensure complete cleaning of the installation from impurities and suspensions, so further operation of the unit is associated with the risk of failure of parts and mechanisms.

Today, at car service stations, you can find an oil change service using special devices. This is the so-called hardware oil change in the engine. There are many conflicting opinions about this method. As a rule, car enthusiasts compare it with the garage method of extracting oil through a dipstick, but there is a difference.

When removing oil from the engine cavity using a hardware method, a special installation is used. The engine is warmed up to operating temperature. In the case when a syringe is used, the engine oil was changed through a dipstick; this method involves pumping out liquid through the filler neck. A special tube is inserted, a pressure difference is created and the entire volume of oil, along with impurities and dirt, is removed from the tank.

Professional oil change machine:

Nozzles, tubes, devices are provided. This provides a complete guarantee that any type of unit can be serviced. However, it is worth noting that the engine design of some manufacturers does not provide for hardware replacement (for example, Subaru). For these engines, the operating instructions only specify the classic oil drain. That is why, before servicing the installation, read the technical documentation provided by the developer.

Note that the traditional method is a more correct and effective replacement method. Application removes impurities in full. In the case of the hardware method, it is recommended to reduce the intervals between replacements and carry out the procedure more often. Some auto mechanics recommend alternating these two methods, achieving maximum optimization through the use of different technologies.

May 22, 2015

Oil contamination causes wear and reduced service life of the rubbing parts of the machine. The power and reliability of the engine depends on its composition. Therefore, it is so important to observe the replacement periods recommended in the operating instructions for cars, taking into account real conditions.

Changing the oil occurs in several stages:

• purchasing the necessary materials (high-quality oil, flushing and filter);
• washing stage;
• draining used oil;
• change the filter and fill in new oil.

It should be noted that oil changes in a diesel engine will occur more often than in a gasoline or gas engine.

Flushing

This procedure is needed to clean the oil channels, remove carbon deposits and carbon deposits; it provides a larger volume of used oil to be drained.

There are two types of rinsing - soft and fast.

The latter type is poured into the oil just before changing it, the flushing is left for 10 minutes and it cleans the engine. It is used regularly, from the first days of car operation.

Soft flushing is poured into the engine, and for it to have time to take effect, you must drive at least 200 km. She handles car parts gently and carefully. This type of washing is especially important for older brands of cars.

For cars running on gasoline, special flushing compounds can be used. But if the engine is new and high-quality motor oil was used, then there is no need for flushing; the lubricants already contain detergent additives.

After flushing, the engine oil should be changed.

During operation, the engine collects various contaminants from roads or low-quality fuel. They settle in the motor lubricant and oxidize it, so it must be changed regularly.

Methods for changing engine oil

Usually the oil is changed using the traditional method - by draining. Recently, car services have been offering express replacement using vacuum suction. As a rule, this method costs less, the process itself takes less time: there is no need to remove the protection from the motor, and there is no need to lift the car on a lift.

Classic way

To drain, you will need the following tools: an oil filter wrench, a combination wrench, a funnel, a container, a canister, a flashlight, and a rag.

Changing the engine oil will occur by draining it through a special hole located on the oil pan. It is carried out in several stages.

1. The motor is warmed up to normal operating temperature, otherwise mechanical inclusions will remain at the bottom. Then the drain plug located on the oil pan is unscrewed, after placing a container to collect the lubricant. You can reduce the draining time by removing the cap from the filler neck.
2. When using flushing, it must be refilled after the oil has been completely removed. Start the engine at idle speed, wait a little, then drain.
   Using a special wrench, unscrew the oil filter device. And the drain plug is wrapped back into the pan, after wiping it with a clean rag.
3. It is advisable to replace the old gasket with a new one. Before installing a new filter, you need to fill it with oil. You can only screw the filter into place by hand to protect yourself from difficulties when removing it later.
4. Fresh oil is being added. The cover is removed from the engine, and new lubricant is poured in using a funnel. Level control is carried out using a dipstick; it should be between the MIN and MAX marks. After filling, the cover is installed in place.
5. The oil filter is changed.
6. Start the engine and carefully check whether oil is leaking. The oil indicator should be in the “normal” position.

Advantages:

• access to the bottom of the car, as well as to its chassis, is open. You can at the same time perform diagnostics of the car’s chassis;
• Complete drain of oil, no residue.

Flaws:

• long process compared to express replacement;
• splashing of oil when draining around the machine, which leads to contamination and the threat of dirt getting into the engine.

Express - way

The equipment is divided into professional and home use. Professional systems are equipped with electric compressors; they have containers with a capacity for several replacement cycles. They differ in quick-release hoses with special attachments for different engines.

To perform an express replacement of a house, you need autonomous equipment. It is a small container filled with air, the volume of which is discharged using a hand pump. The reservoir is intended for one cycle, reuse occurs after the container is completely cleaned.

With this method, the used composition is pumped out through a hole where the oil level dipstick is inserted. The process is carried out in several stages.

1. The engine must be warmed up to operating temperature so that the lubricant flows into the crankcase.
2. The probe is removed from the hole, then the tube of the pumping device is inserted. It is lowered until it touches the surface of the engine. The air in the apparatus is discharged using a hand pump or compressor. Due to the pressure difference, the oil is drawn out.
3. After pumping out the lubricant, the tube is removed. Then the filter is changed. The presence of a nozzle on the tube is checked so that it does not get lost when draining inside the motor.
4. Fresh lubricant is poured in, the level is controlled with a dipstick, which is then installed in place.
5. Replacing the oil filter.

Advantages:

• you can do without a special key for the drain plug;
• express - replacement takes less time than regular draining;
• Changing the engine oil occurs in the normal position of the machine, there is no need for a lift;
• The process is environmentally friendly and does not affect the environment.

Flaws:

• the tube is unreliable, it can be broken off or the nozzle can be left inside;
• Less used lubricant is drained than with the first method.

Each car enthusiast chooses for himself how to change the engine oil. You can contact a service station or do it at home, knowing the necessary techniques and choosing the appropriate method. But it should be noted that the best option is to alternate express replacement with the classic method.

Changing the engine oil is a fairly simple procedure that any car owner can do if desired. This article will describe in detail how to change the engine oil with your own hands, what tools you will need for this, and describe some points that will be useful even to an experienced car owner.

How much does it cost to change engine oil at a service center?

Changing the engine oil at a specialized service station will cost the owner from 200 to 500 rubles. This is the average price and it varies by 100 up or down. It all depends on the “arrogance” and high cost of the service. Depends engine oil change price depending on several factors, such as the need to remove engine protection, the use of flushing, and simply the model of the car. The “impudence” factor of the service depends on the latter. In most cases, if a person drives an expensive car to a service center to change the oil, then they will take an order of magnitude more money from him than from a person who arrived in a budget car. Although oil change procedure there will be no difference in both cases. If there is a protection under the engine, and there are no technological holes in it for changing the oil, then when changing the engine oil you will have to dismantle this protection. Removing and installing the protection will increase the cost of replacing engine oil by about 50-150 rubles. And if the owner plans to also use flushing when changing the engine oil, then the service center will also charge him about 100-150 rubles. If all points are fulfilled, the owner gives a “good” amount, which could be spent on something more important by changing the engine oil himself.

What do you need to change your engine oil yourself?

The first thing you need to decide is this is the place where we will change the oil. Ideally, this should be a garage, but nowadays not everyone has a garage. If there is a garage, then we have already dealt with the first point. If not, then that's okay too. Surely, everyone has an acquaintance, relative or friend who has a garage. You can ask to go to the garage for half an hour to change the engine oil. I am sure that if you have such a friend or acquaintance, he will definitely not refuse your request to use his garage to change the engine oil. Well, if no one around you has a garage, then you can change the oil in the fresh air. In this case, the ideal season would be summer, but in winter it is also possible to change the engine oil yourself without a garage. Many garage co-ops have an outdoor overpass or pit that we can use to change our motor oil. Ask your friends, there will probably be someone among them who knows such a place. Well, if this is difficult, then you can use a regular jack. You have it, right?

So, we decided on the place. We bought motor oil and a filter. There is a tool. Straight arms and gloves are also available. We're going to change the oil. On the way, don’t forget to take a container for used oil with you. In this case, a basin works well. Also take with you a container for transporting used oil. A regular 5-liter plastic bottle will work well here. Both the basin and the bottle can be purchased at any hardware store.

Where to start changing engine oil?

The first thing you need to do is look under the car and examine where the drain plug is located, how best to get to it, what key will fit, and whether there is engine protection. As a rule, the key for the drain plug is the usual 17. But there are other options - asterisk, hexagon, etc. If it's the first time change the engine oil yourself, then it is better to know this and have the appropriate key. If engine protection is installed, then pay attention to whether there are technological holes in it and whether it will be necessary to remove it when changing the engine oil. If there are no such holes, then pay attention to how the protection is secured and what keys may be required. After we have examined the lower part of the engine, we move on to the next point.

Step-by-step instructions for changing engine oil with your own hands with photographs

1. We warm up the engine to operating temperature, i.e. up to 90 degrees. You can take a ride or just stand still with the engine running and wait. This is necessary so that the engine oil becomes more liquid (when heated, the oil becomes more liquid). Also, motor oil holds particles well when agitated. Depending on the quality of the oil, it can hold particles from half an hour to 2 hours. After which the particles settle. Do you understand now why you need to warm up the engine when changing engine oil?

If you change the oil on an overpass or pit, then we drive into the place, turn off the engine and put the car on the handbrake. If we carry out the procedure for changing engine oil on the streets or in a garage without a pit, then we turn off the engine and put the car on the handbrake. Then we take out the jack and raise as much as possible the side from which it will be convenient to crawl to the drain plug.



We are preparing containers for collecting used motor oil and tools. We clear the way for the drain plug and unscrew it. CAREFULLY. The oil in a heated engine is hot and can cause burns. So be careful. In any case, some of the used oil will end up on your hands and nothing can be done about it. As soon as the oil has poured, place the container and wait for the oil to drain. If the car is on a jack, lower it and raise the other side. The oil should begin to flow more intensely. Play with lowering and raising the car to drain the used engine oil as much as possible. In any case, when changing engine oil, some of the old oil will remain in the engine. It is impossible to completely drain the engine oil when replacing it, but you should try to drain as much as possible.

If you do not use flushing oil, then immediately proceed to the next step. Whether or not to use flushing oil is up to you. If you are interested in my opinion, then I am ready to tell you about it in a nutshell. So, if you change the oil at a normal interval of up to 10 thousand km, then you do not need to use flushing. If the oil is very dirty, you can use flushing. The use of flushes is described in great detail. Flushing oil is similar in composition to motor oil, but with a large addition of detergent additives. Before using flushing oil, you should read the instructions. As a rule, manufacturers write step-by-step instructions on the back of the canister. Most often, it is necessary to drain the old engine oil and fill in flushing oil to the minimum mark. Start the engine and let it idle for 10-15 minutes. Then drain the flushing oil, change the filter and fill in new engine oil.

When the oil is drained, without tightening the drain plug, unscrew the oil filter. If you don’t have enough strength to unscrew the filter by hand, then punch it with a screwdriver and unscrew it. You can use a special puller, but personally, having owned different cars, I have never used an oil filter puller in 10 years. If the filter did not unscrew by hand, then a screwdriver and a hammer were used. If you don’t know how to unscrew the oil filter, then read the article:. The article describes 5 good ways to easily unscrew the oil filter. When you unscrew the oil filter, some more oil will flow out.



We screw the drain plug into place, wipe the sealing surface of the oil filter with an unnecessary rag and install a new oil filter. Remember to lubricate the O-ring with oil before installing the oil filter. The oil filter must be changed every time the engine oil is changed! There is an opinion that before installing the oil filter, it must be filled with oil. This is not necessary in 99% of cases. No air lock is formed. You can verify this by studying. And the volume of oil entering the oil filter itself is so small that upon first start-up the oil pump will pump it through so quickly that the engine will not have time to “notice” it. Therefore, you may not encounter “experienced” car owners advising you to fill the filter with oil before installing it. Other than spilled oil, you won't notice any difference.

When the oil filter is installed (in detail) and the drain plug is tightened, you can fill in new engine oil. For convenience, you can use a funnel. If you don’t have it at hand, you can take a plastic bottle and make a funnel out of it. If there is neither a funnel nor a bottle, then the oil can be poured directly from the canister directly into the filler neck. The main thing is to take your time and do it carefully. To prevent the oil from splashing out and flowing past the neck, hold the canister flat to the ground. This will be much more convenient.

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And don’t forget about the quality of the engine oil. Try not to run into a fake. We are gradually publishing articles on the difference between fake oils and original ones. We recently sorted it out. If interested, follow the link.

How to determine how much oil to pour into the engine when replacing?

Ideally, the oil level should be between the Min and Max marks on the dipstick in the engine. On some probes, these marks are not signed, but have marks in the form of dashes, dots, slots, etc. After you have filled the engine with most of the required oil, wait until it drains into the crankcase. After a couple of minutes, pull out the dipstick and check the level. If the level is at least at the minimum level, then close the filler neck and start the engine. When the oil can light on the dashboard goes out, the engine can be turned off. This is necessary so that the pump pumps oil throughout the entire system and the oil filter is filled with oil. Now you need to wait a few minutes again and check the engine oil level. If necessary, add oil. If the level is above the maximum mark, then the excess oil must be drained! Excess oil in the engine lubrication system can harm the seals, as excess pressure will arise during engine operation.

It is important to remember that the oil level is checked ten minutes after the trip. During this time, the oil has time to drain into the crankcase and then the readings will be as correct as possible. In this case, the car must be level. Checking the oil on a cold engine is also not entirely correct, since at low temperatures the oil will shrink and the readings will be incorrect.

So, the engine oil has been changed. The level is set between the minimum and maximum marks. All that remains is to remove spilled oil from the engine and other parts and pour the used oil from the basin into a prepared container. After which the oil can be handed over for further disposal or donated to friends who need it. Yes, yes, used oil is still used for various purposes. For example, for heating premises in which waste furnaces are used. Or for impregnating timber during construction. There are many ways to use used oil. These are just the most common methods.

So, the engine oil has been replaced and the oil has been poured into a container. The keys are put in their places. Having completed such an important procedure as engine oil change, you not only receive moral satisfaction from the work done, but also save your own money! And don’t forget, all oils and filters can be purchased from us!