- during the period of traditional Russian frosts, this question sounds more relevant than ever. With the onset of cold weather, many drivers are faced with the problem of starting their car in the morning. Some people are unlucky and have to run to a minibus in the cold, leaving their “iron horse” standing forlornly in the yard. We will talk about how to avoid these problems and how to solve them, if you still cannot avoid them, in this article. Let us immediately make a reservation that it is not for drivers with experience in operating their cars since Soviet times, they themselves can teach us a lot, and, in fact, this article is based on their experience...

If it's minus outside...

It is worth remembering that in severe frosts the body quickly becomes hypothermic, and you can get severe frostbite and colds if you try to start the car for a long time. Therefore, if within 7-10 minutes you were unable to start the car, think about whether the trip and the health risk are so important, maybe you should return home, to the warmth and not take risks? If you absolutely must go, call a taxi, look for a ride, or run to public transport and don’t freeze while trying in vain to start.

If you absolutely need to start the car, before leaving the house, be sure to have a hearty breakfast with sufficiently fatty and high-calorie foods, and then go out into the cold, dressing carefully and taking with you a thermos of hot tea. In such frosts, you should wear felt boots and woolen socks on your feet if you plan to stay outside near the car for at least 10-20 minutes.

To prevent the lock cylinder from freezing, you need to spray it with a defrosting spray in the evening. If there is no spray, brake fluid will do. Dip the key into the brake fluid and push the key into the lock cylinder several times. Some drivers believe that this procedure is unnecessary, because they didn’t wash the car today, it didn’t rain, so why the extra fuss? The fact is that the condensation that accumulates in the lock cylinder is enough to make you late for work tomorrow. The easiest way to dry the lock cylinder from condensation is to blow it out using a compressor to inflate the wheels, but using water-repellent oily liquids is still more reliable.

Now let's turn our attention to the door seal rubber bands. The easiest way to prevent them from freezing to the car body is to open all the doors for about five minutes before parking the car so that the moisture on the rubber bands and body freezes out, then wipe the rubber bands and body dry with a rag. Also, this helps to ventilate warm air from the interior so that there is no frost on the windows from the inside. More advanced car owners usually purchase silicone for rubber seals (this is a spray in a can), it is inexpensive, and cover all rubber surfaces with it. Silicone does not freeze. The same measures must be taken if you decide to wash your car in winter. Otherwise, the rubber bands may freeze (and after washing the car, 100 percent will freeze), and then you will either tear off the rubber bands of the seal and have to change them, or you will not get into the cabin at all.

If it didn't help?

If you forgot to do all of the above in the evening or did not consider it necessary, and the lock cylinder is frozen, you can spray a defrosting spray into the lock cylinder in the morning. If this does not help, or there is no spray, you can heat the key with a lighter and, when heated, insert it into the lock cylinder. In a few steps, the ice in the larva will thaw and the lock can be opened. Also in winter it will not be superfluous to buy a defrosting keychain. This is a small plastic box with a retractable thin metal strip that is heated by a battery. The device costs about 300-500 rubles and fits perfectly in any pocket. Just do not touch the metal strip with your fingers - burns are guaranteed.

So, the car is open, now you need to start the engine. To avoid problems with starting the engine in cold weather, you must remember: how to start a car correctly in winter and follow a few simple rules.

Oil. It is better to change the engine oil at the end of autumn, so your engine will face the frosts with fresh oil. Naturally, this engine oil should be winter grade. Winter and summer oils differ in their viscosity. Summer oils are more viscous, so the cold causes them to thicken much more than winter ones - at a temperature of minus 15, summer oils resemble grease, and at minus 30 they look more like plasticine. Can an engine filled with plasticine start? Of course not. Therefore, in winter, the engine must be filled with winter oil, synthetic or semi-synthetic.

Candles. Spark plugs should be checked in the fall and replaced if necessary. The same applies to high-voltage wires.

Battery. If your battery is already 3 years old, then it is better not to tempt fate and replace it with a new one in the fall. It is better to install a battery with a larger capacity. If you are confident in the performance of your battery or there is no extra money to replace it, then you need to check the density and level of electrolyte in the battery. Also, the electrolyte in the battery must be clean and transparent. If there are small particles in the electrolyte, this indicates that the lead plates of the battery have begun to crumble. This means that the battery will not survive the winter and will let you down at the most inopportune moment.

Let's start!

So, you turned out to be a caring car owner and are already behind the wheel. Turn on the light (preferably high beam) for 20-30 seconds. This will put a load on the electrolyte in the battery, a reaction will begin, and the electrolyte will heat up a little. But there is no need to abuse this, because... the battery may be discharged. Before starting the engine, do not forget to turn off all electrically consuming devices: stove, heated windows and seats, headlights, radio, etc. For carburetor cars, you need to open the hood and manually prime the fuel pump. In fuel-injected cars, the fuel pump pumps gasoline itself, but when starting the engine of such cars, under no circumstances should you press on the accelerator (gas) pedal. When starting an engine with a manual transmission, place the gear lever in neutral and depress the clutch pedal. This way, the gearbox will be disconnected from the engine and it will be much easier for it to start.

You turn the key in the ignition and the starter tries to start the engine. If the engine does not start, you do not need to keep the starter on for more than 10 seconds - there is a risk of draining the battery. You can try to start the engine again after a couple of minutes. If after 5-7 attempts the engine still does not start, you will most likely have to go for help.

A discharged battery can be lit from another car. If there are no wires for lighting, you can start the car using a cable and another car (only for manual transmission). To do this, you need to attach to the “tractor”, set off, pick up a speed of 10-15 km/h, squeeze the clutch, engage 1st or 2nd gear, turn the ignition key until the warning lights come on and release the clutch pedal. When the engine starts, depress the clutch again and disengage the gear.

For cars with a diesel engine, in addition to the above, it is necessary to use winter diesel fuel, otherwise the engine will not start. You can install Diesel Therm, a device for heating diesel fuel, in front of the fuel filter. It would also be a good idea to get a warming device - an electric heating mat. But the diesel engine really doesn’t like frost, and even with winter diesel fuel and working glow plugs it may not start. In such cases, an ether spray helps to quickly start the engine. To do this, remove the pipe after the air filter and spray it directly into the air manifold.

And finally, the most important thing in the question “how to start a car correctly in winter?”: Think carefully about whether you really need to drive, because every kilometer traveled by the car in frosty minus 25 degrees is equal to 10 kilometers of summer mileage.

Instructions

If you park the car for a long time (for example, overnight) during severe cold weather, remove the battery and take it to a warm room. It's even better to replace the battery with a new one. If the current battery was purchased relatively recently, clean its terminals with sandpaper.

Before using your car in winter, change the engine oil to a less viscous one (synthetic or semi-synthetic). It would be a good idea to check the spark plugs for carbon deposits and, if necessary, replace them with new ones. Fill only with high quality gasoline. Diluted fuel in cold weather is a real disaster. Make sure that you have more than half of the fuel when leaving your car in the parking lot. Otherwise, harmful condensate will form in the fuel system, which can make it difficult to start the car and lead to expensive repairs.

Before starting the car, turn on the low beams, then the heated windows and high beams. This will warm the electrolyte and increase its capacity. Turn off all electrical equipment (including air conditioning) and start the engine. Do not press on the gas when starting for the first time. It is enough to turn the key in the ignition for 10-15 seconds. If the engine is the first time, then there is no need to be zealous. If you run the starter for a longer time, you will not be able to start the car. Give it seven or eight tries. The car should start. Warm up the car for five to seven minutes and you are good to go.

If the car does not start due to a discharged battery, then it can be revived by “lighting” it from another car. Turn off the engine of the donor car and connect one battery to another with thick high-voltage wires, observing the polarity. Start the donor car, and after 5 minutes you can start the engine of the car with a discharged battery. We remove the wires and drive 15-20 km so that the battery is charged from the generator.

If you can’t start the car, you can try the old proven method. Engage second gear, depress the clutch, accelerate the car with the help of another car or by asking passers-by. After picking up speed and quickly releasing the clutch, press the gas pedal. The car will start. Don't let the car stall.

Video on the topic

With these tips, you can easily start your car even in severe frost!

One of the most popular methods is. Firstly, you can start the engine remotely, and secondly, set an interval at which the car will automatically start so that the engine does not freeze. After 10 minutes of operation, the engine turns off.

The simplest autostart with which you can do this costs from 2,500 rubles. More expensive models even have a function that starts the engine only when it cools down to a certain temperature. He does this using a special temperature sensor. Such devices are more profitable, because the engine starts only when it is really necessary - you will save on fuel.

You can also control it via GSM using your smartphone and special applications. But such a system will cost 10,000 rubles.

You can get by with less money if you buy a car blanket - a special blanket made of non-flammable materials that increases the engine cooling time by about 2 times. A blanket costs 3-5 thousand rubles.

The next option is an autonomous heater. It is installed in the engine compartment and uses fuel for heating: it does not require either connecting to the network or turning on the engine. But the price of such heaters is quite high: from 25 thousand rubles without installation.

You can also use electric car heating. It operates from a 220v network and heats the coolant. It is precisely because of the principle of connecting electric heating that this is not the most convenient method: only owners of private houses or garages with sockets can use it. The cost of the device is from 1500 rubles.

Video on the topic

• The car is not mechanically prepared for winter. This is the most common reason, because most people repair the problem only after it has made itself felt. It is not right! You need to clearly understand the weaknesses of a car in winter and try to make these risks insignificant. Common problems include incorrectly set ignition, incorrect adjustment of the mixture driver (carburetor, injector, injectors), untimely replacement of consumables (fuel and air filters). It should be clearly understood that if there are even slight difficulties with starting in the summer, this will definitely come back to haunt you in the winter.

• Weak battery. This applies to a greater extent to old batteries that are more than 2 years old. Although, if used incorrectly, the battery may “age” faster. To understand the condition of the battery, you should contact a specialist. He will measure the condition with a special device and tell you how many working plates are in the battery and how long the full charge lasts. It will also measure whether the battery is fully charged from the generator. You may need to add electrolyte or distilled water for resuscitation.

You don’t need to make your own decision about adding electrolyte or water to the battery, especially if you are a “layman”. Often, motorists with their repairs make the condition of the battery even worse;

• Wrong choice of oil. In winter, it is worth filling in oil marked 0W or 5W; this is a special oil for low temperatures. Withstands up to – 30 degrees. Also, prolonged use and untimely oil changes can lead to its thickening at low temperatures.

• Poor quality fuel. The cause of difficult starting is often poor quality fuel. With gasoline this is less noticeable, but with gas and diesel fuel it is more noticeable. For a diesel car, you need to buy winter diesel or add anti-gels to it (read about what it is).

How to start a car in cold weather: basic methods

1. The correct technique for starting a car (read about). With the clutch depressed (on a manual), we turn the starter for 3-4 seconds, this will make it possible to pump in the required amount of fuel. Then you should turn on the low beam headlights for a short time, literally for 5-7 seconds. This will allow the battery to revive. Next, we squeeze the clutch again and try to start it. It is not recommended to turn the starter for more than 6 seconds. It is much more effective to scroll for 3-4 seconds at intervals of 10-15 seconds. This makes it possible not to drain the battery quickly. It should be started with all electrical appliances, heater, heated seats, and music turned off. When the car starts, do not immediately release the clutch. It is advisable to hold it squeezed for 4-5 seconds and release it smoothly. The clutch is depressed to facilitate the starter's operation. After all, this way he only turns the engine without a gearbox. Also, you should not drive right away; let the car warm up for 5-7 minutes.
2. “Lighting up” from another battery. This method requires the presence of wires for lighting and the presence of a donor car. The technique is quite simple: the donor car drives up close to the car being lit, the wires are connected (plus to plus, minus to minus), the donor car runs at high speed for 10-15 minutes, then it should be turned off. After this procedure, you can try to start the car. If it doesn’t work the first time, the procedure must be repeated.
3. Keeping the battery warm. To reduce battery discharge in the cold, you can remove it and leave it in a warm room. For example, in the North, motorists remove batteries at night or while not driving. Also, if it is possible to leave the car in the garage, it is better to do so. The temperature even in an unheated room will be higher than outside. If it is problematic to remove the battery and there is no garage, you should sometimes go out and warm up the car for 5-10 minutes.
4. Using “Quick Start” type sprays. Before a cold start, the spray is sprayed into the carburetor, thereby enriching the mixture with flammable alcohols. In some cases, the spray helps well, but if the battery is dead, it will not be able to help.
5. Heating the mixture. Boiling water is usually used for heating. Fuel systems should be watered. This is not relevant for gasoline cars. For diesel engines, water the fuel filter and injectors. If you are trying to start the car on gas, you should water the gearbox well.
6. Portable small battery. The “Quick Start” charging battery is a rather convenient accessory. It is small in size and has just enough capacity to start the car. Inserts directly into the cigarette lighter, no need to reach into the terminals in the hood. You can also charge it from the cigarette lighter while the car is running.
7. Start with a pushrod. This method is suitable for cars with a manual transmission.

For cars with an automatic transmission, some of the methods are not relevant. If you are sure that the battery is charged, the starter is working and turns, then the problem is condensate freezing in the fuel lines or filter. To solve this problem, you need to tow the car to a warm room, and the problem will go away on its own.

The same goes for freezing electronics. There is a situation when the on-board computer behaves incomprehensibly and produces a large number of errors. This could be due to freezing, among other things.

Another common question that worries drivers is... You will find the answer in our article.

Features of starting a diesel engine in cold weather

In order for a diesel car to start well in winter, you should fill it with winter diesel fuel or add anti-gels to it. How to start a car in cold weather if the diesel fuel has thickened? Pour boiling water over the fuel filter and injectors.

When the car starts, the system itself warms up the diesel in the fuel tank. Also, when starting, you must first turn the ignition key and wait 7-10 seconds for the glow plugs to warm up. And then start the car. Glow plugs are used specifically to warm up the fuel during startup.

One of the possible difficulties may be a malfunction of the injectors. This is usually checked on a specialized stand. Modern cars are also equipped with heating of the tank and fuel system. After starting the car, do not turn on the heater. It is advisable to wait until the engine warms up and then warm up yourself.

It's still winter outside, with another cold snap. Most likely, not everyone will be able to start. To help survive the cold, driving instructors continue the story about ways to start a car in winter.

How do ordinary ordinary drivers act? How to get your “swallow” to start in the cold?

Someone says that having replaced the battery with a new one before the onset of cold weather, now they have no problems - the car starts the first time.

Some take a longer and more labor-intensive route.

• pump the fuel pump several times to fill the carburetor;
• pull out the choke, without touching the gas, and turn from two to four turns;
• if the car does not start after the above, then you need to make a couple of sharp presses on the gas and wait about ten seconds;
• Without touching the pedal, turn the starter;
• if after the above the car does not start, then “Quick Start” will help you.

Some recommend replacing the battery in time, checking and replacing spark plugs if necessary, and changing the oil. Some people want to keep the battery or the entire car warm. The advice is different, everyone chooses something different, the most acceptable.

A complex approach

Based on many recommendations driving instructors We made a small plan, describing in detail what is best to do and in what order in order to start without problems in cold weather. Let's start with the fact that you need to prepare for cold weather before it arrives. It is very important.

Replace your car's battery in advance if it is not too new. Change the oil to a less viscous one. It is better to use semi-synthetic or synthetic. Check the spark plugs, replace if necessary. Stock up on Quick Start aerosol and lock defrosting agent. It would be somewhat unwise to leave the latter in the glove compartment of the car. Change the anti-freeze to a winter one.

It is unlikely that you will need it in cold weather, but if it freezes, it can damage something.

Usually the main culprit for a car not starting is the battery. In particularly severe frosts, experienced drivers recommend removing it and taking it home. Better yet, find a warm place to park your car.

Before starting, do not forget to “wake up” the battery. To do this, turn on the high or low beam and fog lights for a few seconds. This will help warm up the electrolyte a little, its capacity will increase.

Get excited!

After all the preliminary procedures, we proceed directly to the process of starting the car. Turn off the heater, headlights, and heated glass. With an injection engine, you don't need to step on the gas. If the engine does not start after ten seconds, turn everything off, wait half a minute and repeat. You can make a maximum of seven attempts; it is not recommended to drive the starter for too long. After starting, release your foot from the clutch pedal slowly. The gearbox must be in neutral. Warm up the car for a few minutes, and then you can drive off.

Remember what you can’t do in cold weather: you can’t wash your car and leave it on the handbrake overnight - the brake pads will freeze.

Low-quality gasoline is a real disaster for the engine. However, there is an even bigger problem - a small amount of gasoline in the gas tank. Make sure the tank is at least two-thirds full. Due to this, the formation of condensation is significantly reduced. It would be nice to cover the wires and distributor with a layer of special silicone.

Video about how to start in winter:

Have a good start in the cold and take care of your iron horse!

This article uses an image from www.imagehostinghosting.com

In severe frost, the engine may not start for the following trivial reasons:

1. Bad oil. - I pour TOKAI oil, Japan, in Vladik for 4 liters 1800 with delivery to Anadyr 2300, 0W30, zero problems.

2. Weak battery - Everything is simple here. There are no bad batteries, there is incorrect operation and a malfunction of the charging system (IMHO).

3. The ignition system is faulty.

4. Bad gasoline. - This does not threaten us - he is always bad.

5. Other not trivial reasons. Here is an algorithm that can be used to start a car in cold weather:

1. It's all about the oil. You can check the consistency of the oil on the dipstick. You don't need to be a great specialist to see that the oil has thickened too much in cold weather. Summer, low-quality or dirty oil that has not been changed for a long time can thicken too much. Don't be lazy to check the oil before you mess with the battery. If you are convinced that the oil in the crankcase is bad and there are big problems with replacement, there is a way to survive severe frosts. Consider it a forced emergency. ..If the oil is normal, the cause of poor shaft rotation...

2. It's a battery issue. It may be discharged or worn out. Before the onset of frost, it is recommended to charge the battery for at least 6-7 hours. If after the morning it still does not last, you will have to buy another one, even if this one is completely new. Batteries with ceramic plates (for example Warta) can die after just a few deep (full) discharges. The power of a battery is highly dependent on its temperature. If the battery worked normally in the summer, then by warming it up even without recharging (you can bring it home at night, if urgent, you can warm it up in a basin of warm water), you will achieve summer cranking efficiency while it is warm. …If the shaft spins well and there is at least one pop….

3. The reason is in the ignition system. The first thing to do is replace the spark plugs with new ones or calcinate them. Place on a metal stand on a gas stove and heat for 30-40 minutes. As a result, all the plaque burns off them, and the insulators turn white. If they remain red, the spark plugs should be cleaned by soaking in a rust converter for 1-2 days. Pay attention to the required electrode gap. You can even reduce it a little. For example, for 1.1 to 1.0 mm.. By unscrewing one spark plug, you can make assumptions about the starting problem: - If there are black (or very dark) deposits on the spark plug, the fuel mixture is excessively rich. -If there is no dark carbon deposit on the removed spark plug, we are talking about a lean fuel mixture or lack of fuel. BB wires. Those ends that are in the reel usually do not lose lubricant. And those ends that are put on the candles need to be lubricated with silicone grease or simply sprayed with VD. …failure to start in cold weather…..

4. from bad gasoline. THE MOST COMMON REASON! In our country, gasoline is most often diluted in two ways - either with gasoline with a lower octane number (cheaper), or simply with water. The mixture just doesn't burn. Moreover, it is difficult to immediately understand why the engine stubbornly refuses to work - the spark is excellent, gasoline is supplied, the shaft spins, and... don't start. In this case, the solution is to replace the gasoline with a known good one or add 2 times more good gasoline than what is left in the tank. .....about powerful starting transformers capable of spinning the frozen shaft of any engine. They can be used for a very limited time. If there are no “pops” at all, don’t “drive” the starter in vain - burn it out, but look for the cause of the problem. Five minutes of trying to start without “popping” with powerful cranking and “dry” friction is equivalent in terms of wear to a mileage of 500 km.

5. Other reasons: insufficient fuel pressure in the system, clogged injectors, frozen wet air filter, etc... any minor imperfections in the cold can become a big problem.

6. faulty starter. The Bendix either does not engage the flywheel or breaks off from it. Here you need to put the car in a warm place and warm it up, or put a fan heater under the hood and warm up the starter. It's definitely worth checking out.

7. Particular attention to contacts. Oxidized, loose contacts significantly reduce the likelihood of starting. For example, contacts of the battery, starter, generator, explosive wires, coils - ESPECIALLY, sensors, etc... In cans, as a rule, the PHASE and Oxygen sensor with Bosch firmware, in January the oxygen sensor is not to blame.

It happens that the lambda probe (oxygen content sensor in the exhaust gases) and the MAF (MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR) are to blame for the cold start problems of foreign cars. This is mistake. They start working only after warming up to operating temperature. But the air temperature sensor, in cold weather, gives the brain a fundamental signal about the desired composition of the mixture. Therefore, if the mixture becomes very rich, you can try turning it off or warming it in your hands - this also applies to basins.

Before starting, it is recommended to turn on the ignition several times without starting the engine and let the fuel pump work, creating the required pressure in the system. -if the battery is good and you spent the night in the cold, you can turn on the low beam for a minute and warm it up a little. -it is also recommended to depress the clutch pedal, facilitating the operation of the starter.

If the engine does not start on the second try, you need to:

1. Depress the clutch pedal, press the accelerator (gas) pedal to the floor.

2. Key in the ignition switch to the starter and 10-15 seconds. crank with the starter (the lower part of the spark plugs filled with fuel becomes dry). (This is not always understood by a car whose throttle cable is not adjusted correctly - it only applies to Foreign cars.)

3. Restart the engine. If you couldn’t start it 2-3 times, then stop trying and look for the reason. There is no point in running the starter and draining the battery. -No need to turn the crankshaft more than 3-4-5 revolutions. A break of 30 seconds to 1 minute is required between attempts. so that the fuel injected into the cylinders evaporates. Otherwise, the candles flood. There is no need to touch the gas - the brains do not understand this situation (this does not apply to basins). If none of the above gives results, there is only one way out. You need to drive the car into a warm box. And after prolonged warming up, continue trying to start - repeat everything again with basins - they will definitely start with a live battery without a garage.

About insulating the engine and battery.

Here everyone is doing their best, but I will not list what I have seen, I will simply describe what I have tried.

Insulation is definitely needed. The question is what and how should be insulated. Let's look at the analogy first.

If warm air is forced into a warm glass and turned over, then it can cool only due to heat transfer from the walls, and leakage and blowing will be insignificant. It will cool down within an hour...

If this glass is turned over, everything will blow out, and heat transfer can be neglected. It won't stay hot for a minute...

If the engine compartment is without cracks, including the radiator grille is TIGHTLY blocked by closed blinds, there will be nowhere for heat to escape except through heat transfer through the walls, just like from an inverted glass.

How to make such a glass?

We have one side hole - the radiator grille on the front. It must be closed so that the heat cannot escape to the side. These are blinds. They must be installed so that air cannot enter under the hood without passing them. Then, when closed, they will silently close the heat leakage to the side.

There is still a downward leak, but it is much smaller than the side leak.

After installing the blinds, it is necessary to eliminate the gaps at the hood junction. After this, it is better to glue the iron in a circle with a porous material and additionally apply a “blanket” to the engine. There are special heat-resistant capes for the “blanket”.

The traditional Russian “Cardboard in front of the radiator” is worse than blinds - heat will escape through the sideways cracks very readily and the effect of the “blanket” will not be so significant.

Experience shows that with shutters in the parking lot, the internal combustion engine cools down more than three times slower. In the presence of wind, the difference is even more significant. That is, during the night in cold weather, automatic winding will be three times less frequent.

Blinds should be automatic so as not to have to open and close them. But this is a slightly different topic, and with our frosts 7 months a year, we will focus on a simple radiator seal.

Initially, you need to solve the issue of preserving the heat of the battery and the most suitable and proven option over the years is a thermal case for batteries with automatic temperature maintenance (http://thermocase.ru/). Who organizes this depends on his means and assault.

Sorry for the plagiarism, but I once found it freely available from a motorist and did the same in addition to the thermal case for the battery - I’m happy like an elephant, and I wish you the same:

And so let's begin: Insulating the engine compartment is a complex thing.

You need to understand the ways in which heat escapes, and figure out whether simple actions, such as a car blanket or a piece of penofol felt, are enough to cut off these ways. A very good option is to measure the result using a thermal imager and confirm it with your own feelings.

Of course, not everyone does this or can ask the site manager Mikhalev from MP "GKH" to do this, but you can see the result of this approach using the example of someone else's car.

The photo can be seen at: http://www.anadyr.org/posts/kak-zavo...eresuuschemsya

Additionally, you can put blinds on the radiator grille, which in some modes simply must be open, and in others, on the contrary, when parked - the more tightly it is closed, the slower the car cools down. Window blinds will not work, but homemade ones made from tin cover the heating pipes, each covered with just the right fabric + a cable to the interior from a throttle valve from a UAZ from the Auto Parts store and a spring from an old folding bed.

Of course, many will find such a perversion unnecessary and Webast for 50 thousand rubles is much simpler, but not everyone’s monthly salary allows this, and some people just like to tinker with the car....

Good luck with Perversions.

Forgot about the errors:

1. Light a cigarette from the working car - the batteries should differ by at least 10 Amperes and not in your direction.

2. Battery from a working car to yours - like I’ll start it and give it away quickly with removal when the internal combustion engine is working - And brains are very expensive and if your car was produced and operated for a short time (from 2006 to 50,000 km) it can and will withstand or, on the contrary, it is so old that then the manufacturer was thinking about the reliability of a foreign car, and not about profit (until 1996) - good luck, but if you’re not sure - the brains for even the most worn-out basin cost from 5,000 rubles + delivery + something that is not available in Anadyr - setting....

Lighting rules:

1. Connect without mixing up the terminals.

2. Start the internal combustion engine of the working car.

3. A working car must run for at least 5 minutes to tune its brain (does not apply to cans) to an increased charging current.

4. Turn on and off the low beam of the car being brought to life for a minute.

5. Perform a test run (the batteries on both cars are connected as standard). A strong landing of the internal combustion engine of a working car and the reanimated one does not start - wait 10-15 minutes.

6. Repeat everything from step 1.

Urgently - disconnect the negative terminal of the battery of the car being revived (at the fear and risk of burning your brains and the benefactor if it is not a TAZ, which is also not an option), attach the launcher crabs and start from the working internal combustion engine at a speed of the latter of at least 2000. The plant is guaranteed if everything else is normal .

If the battery is still alive and the first start without an intermediary is not successful and you are not afraid to disassemble part of the car:

1. Let's go home for the most alcohol-containing adicolone (eau de toilette will not work - Chypre Deda is better)

2. Disassemble the air duct from the air filter.

4. Sprinkle the cologne and quickly close it - START - all about 10 seconds and the cologne should be at body temperature under the arm.

Hurray, we're up and running.

If not, wait for warming. Boil the Tea - pour it on the intake manifold, and other perversions like that, but let's boil the oil in the crankcase....

Gee Gee: This is often the end of the ordeal of many TAZ drivers (these lie under the TAZ not because it often breaks, but because the sound insulation is not good and any problems are immediately audible in the cabin, which can’t be said about foreign cars, it won’t fall off there yet and you won’t see your own wheel overtaking you on the highway, you won’t remember the wheel bearing) and owners of front-wheel drive cars, which cannot be said about all-wheel drive or plug-in drive.

You are happily sitting in a warm car, on the left is your wife, behind you is your mother-in-law and son, “Dreaming of not being late for school,” and the car either stalled when starting off or is driving as if your mother-in-law has gained weight to the size of an elephant....

Let's remember about the viscose coupling or rear axle. The latter just need to warm up the bridge with a burner, and better yet, without relying on a kind uncle who supposedly replaced all the oils in Japan, still carry out an inspection of the bridge in the summer. First - I never found the answer while I had a Nissan Sanka, until I ruined the viscous coupling in one winter with a sudden start from a standstill and removed the cardan with all the insides of the axle and........ I got a type of front-wheel drive Nissan. May you not be honored by such -42 degree mercy in the morning.
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