F8CV engine on a car Daewoo matiz
Small city hatchback Daewoo matiz has been done since 1998, thanks to its low gas consumption, its own maneuverability and reliability, the car has gained great popularity in Russia. Daewoo engine Matiz 0.8 is the most basic unit that was installed on this car. 
The motor has a lot of positive properties, but it also has rather severe shortcomings. In this article, we will examine the pros and cons of a subcompact engine, its properties and features in repair.
F8CV engine
The 0.8 liter three-cylinder internal combustion engine was installed on Daewoo matiz from the very beginning of the production of this car, and at first it was the only power unit " Matiz". Replacing the timing belt Renault Logan 1.4 and 1.6 8 and 16. In 2003, an internal combustion engine with a volume of 1.0 liters (64 hp) also appeared on the car, and it was already a 4-cylinder. The 3-cylinder S-TEC engine for the Korean car was developed jointly by Daewoo Motors and Suzuki, it is intended for use in small and subcompact cars.
The 0.8 liter engine has a somewhat extraordinary sound, it works because it is like a motorcycle engine. Despite the low power, Daewoo matiz with the power unit, the F8CV is gaining momentum quite quickly - for a low weight of the car (at least one ton), the motor is completely enough. 
Daewoo engine Matiz 0.8: specifications
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The F8CV internal combustion engine block is cast from cast iron, the head cylinder block duralumin, two valves are installed in each combustion chamber. The placement of the camshaft in the engine is upper, the shaft is in the cylinder head bed. Timing drive - belt, rollers and belt need to be changed every 40 thousand km. If you do not follow the replacement schedule, the belt may break, and in this case in the head cylinder block the valves are bent. It is impossible to allow the belt drive to break - the meeting of the valves with the pistons can render the parts of the cylinder-piston group unusable, and repairs will then be expensive.
Daewoo motor Matiz 0.8 technical properties follow:
- Volume - 796 cm³;
- power - 52 liters. with.;
- number of cylinders - 3;
- the total number of valves in the cylinder head is 6;
- diameter of standard pistons - 68.5 mm;
- compression ratio - 9.2;
- piston stroke - 72 mm;
- used fuel - AI-92;
- cooling - liquid;
- power system - injector (distributed injection).
The crankshaft is installed in the cylinder block on 4 bearings, from above 4 covers are tightened with bolts. Diameter of the shaft journals:
- indigenous - 44 mm (-0.02 mm);
- connecting rod - 38 mm (-0.02 mm).
If the crankshaft is worn, the crankshaft must be ground. There are repair sizes of main and connecting rod bearings:
- 1st repair - 0.25 mm;
- 2nd repair - 0.5 mm.
Also, the motor has piston repair sizes:
- 68.75 mm (0.25 mm) - 1st repair;
- 69.00 mm (0.5 mm) - 2nd repair.
As the cylinder liners of the block wear out, they are bored, if it is no longer possible to bore them for the last repair, the BC needs to be re-cased or replacement block.
Typical F8CV engine malfunctions
The Matiz 0.8 engine has a good resource - with careful operation and timely maintenance, the service life of the internal combustion engine is on average 200 thousand km. But the motor has its own corresponding diseases, more frequent breakdowns. On the first Daewoo cars Matiz a distributor was installed, and this part in the ignition system was not particularly reliable. Often, due to a faulty distributor, the engine stopped starting, and because the distributor was not repairable, it had to be changed. Replacing the timing belt Renault Logan 1.6 8 valves and 1.4: labels. Since 2008, the F8CV motors have gone without distributors - the ECU began to control the ignition, so the problems with starting the internal combustion engine diminished. Despite the rather high reliability, in the engine Daewoo matiz 0.8 often:
- the crankshaft knocks;
- the partitions of the pistons explode under the piston rings;
- the cylinder head fails.
But all these severe breakdowns occur only through the fault of motorists. The crankshaft mainly knocks due to overloads, the use of low-quality engine oil. For some reason, the drivers think that if the motor is "frivolous", then there is no need to maintain it normally. Partitions for piston rings on pistons always burst due to overheating, for the same reason cracks appear in the combustion chambers of the head cylinder block.
"GT" Daewoo Matiz 0.8L Replacement timing belt and roller.
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What threatens a broken belt Timing? Do the valves bend when the belt breaks Timing? If so, which ones? We will answer all these questions.
Timing belt break Matiz: a special case.
Replacement belt timing belt Daewoo matiz.
The main diseases of F8CV often manifest themselves not so much in the motor itself as in the attachment. The most painful point here is the generator, especially the failure of the diode bridge occurs. Parts come out most often in conditions of high humidity, in other cases the generator may require repair already at a run of 50 thousand km.
The starter on the Matiz lasts longer, it may need to be repaired somewhere in 80-100 thousand km. However, on a Korean car, the repair of attachments is not always advisable - the price of spare parts is low, and in some cases it is more profitable to completely replace the entire unit as a whole than to spend time repairing the same generator or starter.
Daewoo engine repair Matiz 0.8
It is not difficult to repair a 0.8 liter engine on a Matiz - the design of the engine is simple, many drivers will be able to understand the engine on their own. Daewoo engine repair Matiz 0.8 can be both current and capital, current repairs include:
- adjustment of valves;
- replacement cylinder head gaskets;
- replacement piston rings;
- elimination of oil leakage;
- replacement of the oil pump.
Overhaul is required if the engine has already worked out its intended resource, or it has serious breakdowns:
- the crankshaft rattled;
- the cylinder liners are worn out.
To overhaul the engine, the power unit must be removed. After removing the internal combustion engine, the worn out parts should be discarded and replaced with new ones. Communities ›Renault Dacia Logan Club› Blog ›Replacing timing 1.4 8 tags. lower Logan 2007 onwards at. After repair, the engine will need to be run in:
- limit the maximum number of revolutions;
- do not overload the engine.
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Usually the running-in period lasts 2-3 thousand km. At first, the engine may consume oil, but then the rings rub on the liners, and the consumption returns to normal. If the internal combustion engine continues to smoke and burns out a little, most likely, a secondary disassembly of the power unit will be required. There may be several reasons for the defect:
Replacement timing belt Daewoo matiz with engine 0.8
Many car owners " Matiz»To repair the motor they turn to car services, including trusting the masters to replace the timing belt. But the work on replacing parts of the gas distribution mechanism is not very difficult, and if you have even small locksmith skills, you can do it yourself. The most important thing in this matter is to correctly set the marks on the camshaft and crankshaft - if they are incorrectly set, the valves will bend, and the repair will then be much more serious.
We replace the timing belt on the F8CV motor as follows:
- insert the tension roller into the fixing hole, bait the bolt;
- we tighten the bolt and move the roller to the side as much as possible so that you can easily put the belt;
- having installed the belt, we tighten it;
- we check the coincidence of the labels, we make the assembly.
Adjustment of valves
On the engine Daewoo matiz with a volume of 0.8 liters, there are no hydraulic lifters, so the valves are manually adjusted. Usually, such an operation should be carried out once every 50 thousand kilometers, you can also adjust the valves with your own hands. Replacing the timing belt for Renault Logan 1.6 8 valves with. The sequence of operations is as follows:
We close the valve cover, start the engine, listen to how the engine works. During the adjustment, it is necessary to pay attention to the condition of the camshaft cams, and if there is a production on them, it will not work to adjust the valves (they will knock) - in this case, it is necessary to prepare for replacing the camshaft.
Tuning the VAZ 2110 and changing the bearing When the car passes 50 - 60, the driver begins to notice a nasty grinding of the wheel when driving, moreover, it may seem like free wheeling. This usually means that it is necessary to replace the bearing of the front hub of the VAZ 2110. Although, in fact, the prerequisites for this may seem earlier - the huge role of games ...
We remove the timing belt by unscrewing and removing the tension roller along with the spring. Follow the instructions below if defects are found.
Car maintenance requires periodic replacement of the timing belt. All of the above applies to such an action as a replacement ...
The crankcase protection was removed at the time of the start of work, if you have a crankcase protection installed, it must be removed. Follow the instructions below if defects are found.
Remove the clamp and turn the crankshaft two turns. If there are no extraneous sounds, then you have done a good job. To do this, we screw in the bolt of the lower pulley, when the skiv is removed, we rotate the engine for this bolt.
It is imperative to change the tension roller, the original number of which. If you need to change the pump of the cooling system, then the original number of the consumable is Hepu. New consumables For the convenience of work, you need to remove the right wheel and fender liner. Having unscrewed 4 bolts, dismantle the protective casing.
A few degrees, without much effort, we turn the camshaft counterclockwise, thereby slightly tightening the right branch of the belt. By hand, we check whether the spring has pulled the tension roller, try to move it towards the belt, and then tighten the roller.
Remove the clamp and turn the crankshaft two turns. Tighten the bolt while holding the roller.
Remove the belt from the toothed pulley and idler pulley. Remove the timing belt.
Do not allow the crankshaft and camshafts to turn at large angles with the timing belt removed, otherwise timing damage will occur.
I decided to use parts from other manufacturers without losing quality: GM belt at the time of selection cost p, GM roller about p.
My spare parts are not original: As it turned out when replacing, from the factory! Before replacing the belt, it is necessary to undergo theoretical training and study the important diagrams: F8CV timing belt installation diagram F8CV timing belt installation diagram 2.
We start installing a new timing belt
The steps are described in order. I have a car with air conditioning and without a power steering, the work on removing the drive belts is described for this configuration.
169 change the timing belt to Daewoo Matiz
The crankcase protection was removed at the time of the start of work, if you have a crankcase protection installed, it must be removed. Remove the power steering pump drive belt, see.
Remove the guide tube for the oil level indicator. Remove the lower timing belt cover. By applying force to the tension roller in the direction of the arrow, we turn it relative to the mounting bolt, overcoming the force of the roller spring.
If you notice any problems with him, then the ring will need to be replaced too.
We remove all unnecessary
Next, we check the marks on the camshaft pulley and in the rear cover of the timing belt. Also, you will need to install the crankshaft toothed pulley with the oil pump casing according to its own marks. After completing the calibration, we begin the assembly, which is an exact copy of the disassembly, only in the reverse order.
All of the above applies to such an action as replacing the timing belt on a Matiz car with an engine size of 0. Important notes During work, do not allow the crankshaft and the timing mechanism to turn.
Just pull it towards you a little and lift it up.
51 52 53 ..Daewoo Matiz. Foam in the expansion tank
There are several reasons for the appearance and formation of foam in the expansion tank. But there are only two main ones:
1) The coolant (antifreeze or antifreeze) purchased for the car is not of the best quality, and sometimes the most outright "mess".
2) Damage (blowing out) of the gasket between the cylinder head (cylinder head) and the cylinder block.
Poor quality coolant
Antifreeze is an important component of any engine. This is a liquid with a special chemical composition, which is designed to cool the motor from overheating. This means that antifreeze will protect the engine from overheating and deformation at elevated temperatures. In addition, due to its chemical formula, antifreeze does not freeze even in winter. What is especially important, because in winter the car, despite the cold, is especially demanding on engine cooling.
There are four main types of antifreeze, the difference between which is their functionality and composition. Antifreeze is a kind of antifreeze. It is important to note that antifreeze is a foreign-made coolant, mainly American, and it is used in most cases for foreign cars.
Antifreeze is also a cooling liquid of domestic manufacturers, and is most often bought for Russian brands. The difference between antifreeze and antifreeze is mainly in the chemical composition.
The formation of foam due to the purchase of low-quality antifreeze is as follows. Coolant must be present and circulate in the car's engine at all times, even when the car is warming up. The circulation is carried out thanks to a special pump, the name of which is pump.
Thanks to the pump and the circulation of the coolant, the engine warms up evenly. As soon as a low-quality antifreeze enters the car, circulation occurs according to the same principle, but with one caveat - the air in the expansion tank, together with chemical elements, begins to bubble, coke, and as a result, foam is formed.
Depending on the chemical composition, the color of the foam can even be brownish brown. Therefore, if the color of the foam turns dark, this is the first sign of poor quality coolant.
Methods for removing foam due to poor-quality antifreeze
If the cause of the problem is that antifreeze is foaming, you can fix the situation quickly, easily and on your own, without resorting to the help of auto mechanics. To do this, it is enough to drain the bad antifreeze, then pour a mixture of distilled water and citric acid.
This will help get rid of the remains in the engine and the expansion tank of poor quality coolant. Then pour in "conscientious antifreeze". The whole procedure takes about half a day. You can do it yourself in your garage, or you can contact a car dealership.
Damage to the gasket between the cylinder head (cylinder head) and the cylinder block
Usually, the gaskets in the car box are not given special attention - "well, okay." Seemingly insignificant and not too significant details that perform "some functions there." And as soon as these very "insignificant" gaskets fail and no longer perform their functions properly, motorists literally grab their heads.
In the event of foam forming in the expansion tank, the gasket (purge) between the cylinder head (cylinder head) and the cylinder block can play an important role. Why is it needed at all, what is its function? Here it ensures dryness and the impossibility of the penetration of excess moisture or liquid from the cylinder head into the cylinder block.
As soon as deterioration occurs, the gasket becomes a place for free passage of air and liquid in the expansion tank. And when this happens when the machine is running, and even under conditions of high temperatures, taking into account all the laws of physics, foam is formed. It does not form immediately and in small quantities.
First, small bubbles, then large, and then - a continuous foamy mass. At the same time, the formation of smoke and temperature fluctuations may also be accompanied, and the car itself, due to these malfunctions, may show all indicators on the sensors as normal.
Methods for removing foam due to damage to the gasket
In the case of foam formation in the expansion tank, precisely because of damage to the gasket between the cylinder head (cylinder head) and the cylinder block, there is only one way out - repair. Moreover, the repair is overhaul. Most often, it is necessary to change not only the gasket, but also the cylinder head and the cylinder block itself. Why?
Damage to the gasket leads to overheating of the parts, and together with the formed foam, it can lead to cracks. Cracks will become additional pathways for foam to spread, which means an additional cause of damage to the entire car.
For the price, this is approximately 30 to 50% of the cost of the car itself. According to the reviews of the drivers, you should not hesitate with this kind of problem, just as you should not take on the troubleshooting yourself.
The replacement process on motors with different volumes is similar .... If the valve belt breaks, "oppression" is unambiguous - be careful! .... The replacement interval prescribed by Autodata is 90 thousand km ....
A small car - for a small locksmith, with thin, long handles ..... the dream of a woman - a car repairman ...
The headlight was removed for convenience, the 3rd attachment point under the wing was broken ...
We remove the expansion tank of the cooling system ... move the power steering tank to the side ...
We loosen the belts of the generator and the air conditioner ... remove the belt cover ...
We expose the camshaft pulley along the mark (there are 2 of them through 180 degrees, TDC is above the pinion pin) ...
Crankshaft pulley ..... remove the bottom cover by unscrewing and pulling out the dipstick tube ....
Crankshaft toothed pulley mark ...
We remove the old one - install a new belt, do not tighten the new roller, turn the crankshaft by 720 degrees - check the marks - tighten the roller bolt with a torque of 15 - 23 N * m ...
Car maintenance requires periodic replacement of the timing belt. On a Daewoo Matiz car, the manufacturer recommends doing this operation every 60 thousand kilometers or every 6 years of operation. However, not all drivers adhere to these recommendations, waiting for the moment when the belt simply breaks.
Most often, timing belt wear is manifested in the presence of suspicious sounds from the engine compartment, intermittent engine operation, or when the engine stalls and does not start. In addition to physical damage to the belt, it may become oily with the same “symptoms”.
Before starting work, you need to prepare a set of open-end wrenches, as well as several corresponding heads, a screwdriver with a straight blade and a Phillips (Phillips) screwdriver. The car, best of all, will be driven onto an overpass or pit.
Before replacing a worn part, you need to access it. So, after setting the car on an overpass, dismantle the fender liner belonging to the arch of the right front wheel. Next, we can work with the upper timing cover, which can be accessed from under the hood. It is held in place by four screws that will need to be unscrewed with a size ten wrench. Three screws are located in the line of sight, and the fourth can be reached from the opposite side of the hull.
The upper timing cover can now be removed. Turn the crankshaft slightly clockwise. Thus, we can inspect the belt and find out if there are any defects on it. Having found any abrasions (it can be small cracks that are easy to find when turning the belt), we proceed to replace it. If everything is in order and there is no oil on the belt, you can reinstall the timing cover.
It looks like a tensioned and undamaged timing belt
The piston of the first cylinder is installed at TDC. Next, we remove the oil level dipstick. After that, it is necessary to remove the drive belt from the pump in cars with power steering, if there is one (typical only for some configurations). Now we can already remove the drive belt related to the generator.
Carefully unscrew the crankshaft pulley mounting bolt. It is important to remember that a screwdriver or other suitable object is used to secure the crankshaft from possible rotation. It is inserted into a suitable location at the rear of the clutch housing.
After that, we will need to remove the pulley, and also unscrew the bolt by means of which it is secured. It holds the oil dipstick guide tube bracket. Now, this very tube will need to be picked up. The effort required for this is small, since you can overdo it and damage it.
We unscrew the 3 bolts that secure the lower timing case cover. As a result, we can dismantle the rear timing case cover, opening full access to the gas distribution mechanism.
Unscrew the mounting bolt holding the tensioner roller slightly so that you can remove the timing belt later. Rotate this idler roller against the mounting bolt. Be prepared for the fact that this will be quite difficult due to the slight resistance of the spring connected to it.
Hold the rollers and tighten the bolt well. After that, it will be possible to easily remove the belt, both from the toothed pulley and from the adjacent tension roller. Just pull it towards you a little and lift it up. The old belt has been removed.
Remove the valve cover and timing belt cover from the engine
Installing a new belt
In order to install a new belt, you will need to completely remove the toothed pulley from the toe of the crankshaft. Now you can also remove the tension roller spring, which is located on the screw head of the pump that pumps the coolant. We unscrew the fastening bolt holding the tension roller and take out the specified roller complete with its spring.
Please note that if there is noise when scrolling the roller, it will also need to be replaced. In addition, in the opening of the pump housing that pumps oil, which belongs to the guide tube (it indicates the oil level), find the O-ring. Examine it carefully for defects. If you notice any problems with him, then the ring will need to be replaced too.
Next, we check the marks on the camshaft pulley and in the rear cover of the timing belt. They must match. Also, you will need to install the crankshaft toothed pulley with the oil pump casing according to its own marks.
After completing the calibration, we begin the assembly, which is an exact copy of the disassembly, only in the reverse order. All of the above applies to such an action as replacing the timing belt on a Matiz car with an engine capacity of 0.8 liters.
Pay attention to the correct installation of the new belt
Important notes
When working, do not allow the crankshaft and timing mechanism to turn. It is only a matter of significant twisting when the timing belt is removed. Otherwise, it may damage the timing. The characteristics of the timing belt indicate that it has a width of 25 mm and the number of teeth on it is 107. It must be changed only if there is damage or after the expiration of the period specified by the manufacturer.
Video about self-replacement for 0.8 liter modifications
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Change the timing belt to Daewoo Matiz yourself
matiz-club.com
Change the timing belt to Daewoo Matiz 0.8 F8CV
(votes: 2, average: 5.00 out of 5)We have been waiting for this for a long time and finally he came to us, we meet the three-cylinder beast Daewoo Matiz, replacement of the timing belt and roller. The engine capacity is 0.8 liters, the speedometer shows almost 40,000. Since the car was just bought, the owner decided to play it safe and rightly so, because no one will give a guarantee that the speedometer is what it is in life.
There is very little space under the hood and this is the only problem. To replace the ShRM belt, we need three heads for 10, 12, 17 and the same keys. Straight arms, a keen eye and about two hours of free time will also come in handy.
First, let's examine the beast. It seems to me that the designers made it from some Japanese cartoon character.
We remove all unnecessary
To get to the timing belt, we will need to remove two belts, a generator and a hydraulic booster with air conditioning. First, we loosen the two bolts for the twelve that secure the power steering pump. One in the back.
One in front.
We move the pump to the block of cylinders and remove the belt. Next, loosen the two bottom bolts of the generator.
And the top one.
We also move the generator to the block and remove the belt. Next, dismantle the upper timing belt cover by unscrewing the four bolts. It will not be easy to unscrew the lower left one, since the hoses get in the way and there is very little space, I remembered three times the mother of all Uzbeks while unscrewing it.
We set the top dead center. We turn the crankshaft hourly hand until the mark on the camshaft sprockets and the protective casing coincide.
On the lower timing belt cover and the crankshaft pulley, the marks should also match. Shown in the removed parts for ease of reference.
We unscrew the crankshaft pulley. To block the engine, we turn on the fifth gear, tighten the handbrake all the way, put stops under the two wheels and tear off the bolt with a slight movement of the one and a half meter lever. Turn off the speed. After that, the mark on the camshaft pulley may run away a little, it must be set again.
Remove the crankshaft pulley. To remove the lower timing belt cover, you must dismantle the oil dipstick, as it interferes with unscrewing one of the bolts. We unscrew one bolt of the probe, take it out, then unscrew the four protective covers and remove it.
We remove the timing belt by unscrewing and removing the tension roller along with the spring.
There is also a mark on the crankshaft sprockets, it should coincide with the outflow of the oil pump.
We check all the labels again. We put the tension roller in place together with the spring, we fall into the hole with the guide pin, and we do not put the bolt yet, this will give us the opportunity to pull the roller further when installing a new belt. We put on a new timing belt first on the camshaft sprocket and fix it with a plastic clamp so that it does not come off in the future. Do not forget about the direction of rotation on the belt.
Next, we put it on the crankshaft sprocket and make sure that the right branch of the belt is tensioned, then on the tension roller and the pump. We put the tension roller bolt, do not tighten it. A few degrees, without much effort, we turn the camshaft counterclockwise, thereby slightly tightening the right branch of the belt. By hand, we check whether the spring has pulled the tension roller, try to move it towards the belt, and then tighten the roller. Remove the clamp and turn the crankshaft two turns. We check the marks and tension of the belt, with two fingers we try to turn it ninety degrees, if it turns more, then it is necessary to tighten the timing belt. If everything coincides and the tension is normal, we install all the parts in the reverse order of removal. Well, if not, we repeat all over again.
Attention! When replacing the timing belt with a Daewoo Matiz, more than one auto master did not suffer, all the tricks were performed by professionals, you can repeat!
Video: Daewoo Matiz 0.8 l Replacing the timing belt and roller
Good luck on the road. No nail, no wand.
autogrm.ru
How to change the timing belt on a Daewoo Matiz
You will need
- - a set of keys;
- - screwdrivers;
- - chisel;
- - timing belt and roller.
Instructions
Prepare your vehicle for repairs. It is advisable to change the timing belt on the inspection pit, lift, or overpass. First of all, remove the fender from the front arch. The dimensions of the car are so small that the engine and all attachments are packed very tightly under the hood. Therefore, it is more convenient to carry out repairs with the wing removed. Now, with a 10 key, unscrew the four bolts that secure the top cover to the unit. Then remove the cover.
Examine the belt by turning the crankshaft clockwise. See if the edge of the belt is eaten. If it has even wear, it indicates that it slips and clings to the roller. The cause of the slipping of the belt, as a rule, is the pump. The bearing in it fails, play appears, which is why the pump pulley tilts slightly to the side. It is advisable that when replacing the timing belt, the pump is also replaced. This will save you from too frequent repairs in the timing unit.
Remove the dipstick that monitors the oil level. Then set the piston of the first cylinder to top dead center. There is a mark on the camshaft pulley that must be aligned with the mark on the cylinder head. In this case, the mark on the crankshaft must match the mark on the clutch block. If you look from below, in the clutch housing you will see an inspection window, through which you can see the marks on the crankshaft.
Disconnect the accessory drive belts. First remove the belt driving the power steering pump, then remove the alternator belt. Next, unscrew the crankshaft pulley mounting bolt and remove it. To prevent the crankshaft of the Matiz engine from turning, support it with a screwdriver inserted into the viewing window of the clutch housing. You can also use a chisel if you don't have a strong screwdriver. The main thing is to fix the crankshaft in place by holding it by the teeth of the rim. Remove the bolt that secures the dipstick tube bracket to the engine block. Then move the tube to the side. Then unscrew the bolts securing the bottom cover and remove it. Unscrew the roller mounting bolt and turn the latter to release the belt tension. Remove the timing belt. Try not to turn the shafts, otherwise the valves will malfunction.
Install a new belt, first check the alignment of all marks on the shafts. When changing the timing belt, be sure to install a new roller, because its service life is rather short. Turning the roller, achieve the required timing belt tension. Try not to overtighten as this will lead to quick wear. A weak tension can cause the belt to move one or two teeth. Then reassemble everything in reverse order.
www.kakprosto.ru
We change the timing belt for a Daewoo Matiz with our own hands
Car maintenance includes replacing the timing belt. To do this, you can visit a service station, but you can save money if you master this procedure yourself. How the Daewoo Matiz timing belt is replaced is described in an article with detailed instructions and video.
The timing belt is a rubber rim with an inner surface in the form of teeth, which contributes to better adhesion to the gears, eliminates slippage when the engine is running. The purpose of this component is to synchronize the operation of the camshafts and crankshafts.
The durability and safety of the engine depends on the quality of the material. Breaking a belt while driving can have serious consequences, especially for 16-valve engines. In the event of a break, the valve may bend, the pistons deteriorate and the surface of the cylinders will be scratched, which will require a major overhaul of the motor or its replacement.
For each car, the manufacturer sets its own terms for maintenance, which are indicated in the operating instructions. For Daewoo Matiz, it is recommended to replace the timing belt after 18 months or after 60 - 80 thousand kilometers. But do not neglect the regular scheduled inspection of the condition of the strap, which is performed either once a year or after 20 thousand kilometers. It is necessary to change the product if:
- cracks, tears, creases appeared;
- frayed edges;
- the fabric is delaminated;
- there are traces of oil;
- the service life has ended.
Step-by-step instructions for replacing
The replacement procedure is performed on a cold engine. To carry out work, it is better to drive the machine onto a flyover or a viewing groove.
Instruments
To work you need to prepare:
For a 0.8 liter engine, a timing belt 96352965 with 107 teeth and 25.4 mm wide is available. For a one-liter power unit - 96610029 with 109 teeth and a width of 25 mm. It is imperative to change the tension roller, the original number of which is 94580139. If you need to change the pump of the cooling system, then the original number of the consumable is 96518977 (Hepu 799).
New consumables Stages
This concludes the process of replacing the timing belt on the Daewoo Matiz with your own hands.
