Complexity

Lift

Not marked

To compensate for the thermal expansion of the valve and other parts of the gas distribution mechanism, a gap between the valve tappet and the camshaft cam is structurally set. With increased clearance, the valve will not open fully. and with a reduced - completely closed.

You will need: all the tools needed to remove the cylinder head cover (see "Removing and installing ignition coils", p. 201), a set of flat feelers, a micrometer, valve lifters with different bottom thicknesses.

1. Disconnect a wire from the minus plug of the storage battery.

2. Remove the decorative engine cover (see "Removing and installing the decorative engine cover", page 85).

3. Remove the ignition coils (see "Removing and installing ignition coils", p. 201).

4 Remove the cylinder head cover (see "Replacing the cylinder head cover gasket", page 90).

5. Set the piston of the 1st cylinder to the TDC position of the compression stroke (see "Setting the piston of the first cylinder to the TDC position of the compression stroke", p. 89). In this position, the marks on the camshaft sprockets are in a horizontal line opposite each other.

6. Measure the gaps between the specified camshaft lobes and valve tappets with a feeler gauge. Write down the measured gaps.

Note

The gaps between the camshaft cams and the pushers of the intake valves should be 0.20 mm, exhaust valves - 0.30 mm

Rice. 4.2. The location of the mark on the exhaust camshaft drive sprocket when the 4th cylinder is set to the TDC position of the compression stroke

7. Rotate the engine crankshaft 360* clockwise. In this case, the 4th cylinder will be set to the TDC position of the compression stroke, and the mark on the exhaust camshaft drive sprocket will be located on the left on the horizontal center line (Fig. 4.2).

8. Measure the gaps between the specified camshaft cams and valve lifters with a feeler gauge. Record the measured clearances.

9. To adjust the clearance, remove the camshaft (see "Removing and installing camshafts", page 94).

Rice. 4.3. Measuring the thickness of the bottom of the valve lifter

10. Remove the valve lifter and measure the thickness of the bottom of the valve lifter (Fig. 4.3).

11. Calculate the required thickness (mm) of the bottom of the valve lifter, when installed, the clearance in the valve drive will correspond to the norm using the formulas:

A \u003d B + (C-0.20)- for inlet valves.

A \u003d B + (C-0.30)- for exhaust valves,

where A is the thickness of the bottom of the new pusher, B is the measured thickness of the bottom of the old pusher, C is the measured gap between the camshaft cam and the pusher.

12. Select a valve lifter with a bottom thickness that most closely matches the calculated value.

Notes

Valve tappets are available as spare parts in 47 standard sizes with a bottom thickness from 3,000 to 3,690 mm. with a step of 0.015 mm.

The identification mark is applied to the upper side of the bottom of the pusher. The thickness of the bottom is marked on the inside.

13. Install the valve lifters and camshafts.

14. Once again measure backlashes in a drive of valves (item 6-8 see).

15. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal.

The tenth generation Lancer is a popular car. There is a good article on the topic of car reliability in the Autoreview magazine, under the heading "Second Hands". Who cares - find and read. It is mentioned in passing about the motors that the 1.5 liter engine (model 4A91) is problematic, prone to the occurrence of rings and you should not buy such a car from your hands. Well, it’s mentioned, and okay, who doesn’t have it.

The people's path to the K-POWER Workshop does not overgrow, the queue for repairs does not decrease, and then a person we know well, who occupies by no means the last place in our local hierarchy, appeared on the threshold with a conversation. And the conversation was about this - he went to Mitsubishi Lancer 10, grief did not know, the car is excellent, bought new in 2011 at the dealer, changed the oil on time, poured only the original Mitsubishi 0W30, the motor did not tear, and that's bad luck - oil consumption after 100 thousand km of run began to rise sharply and reached a liter per thousand km. The warranty is over, the officials offer to come for repairs when the consumption reaches 2 liters per thousand. But adding oil is expensive - a liter has risen in price to 700 rubles. Pokumekali and decided to open the motor. Mileage at the time of opening was 116 thousand km, honest and transparent. The initial verdict is the occurrence of oil scraper rings.

As always, the author is interested in delving into a previously unknown motor, gaining new experience. Here, the interest is double - the motor is relatively fresh, still relevant, and even made in Japan! There is no doubt that all the details are checked and marked personally by the Emperor, and as always the driver is to blame for the breakdown, but not the Japanese. Whether this is so, what engineering solutions were applied by the Japanese, the luminaries of engineering progress, and whether there is the seal of the Emperor there - all this had to be checked. During the report, the author will inevitably compare design solutions with motors of other brands.

Let's get started. The space under the hood is pleasing to the eye - the motor is compact and extremely convenient in service and access. The motor is chain, outside there is only a belt of mounted units, which is tensioned by the generator. We begin to disassemble the engine.

Things are moving quickly, the harnesses are quickly disconnected and set aside, the ease of dismantling the intake manifold is phenomenal, although the lower generator mounting bolt rests on the thermostat housing, this is not essential - access to everything is very simple and convenient.
Along the way, we will evaluate the rear suspension - there is a multi-link, the levers are not as good as those of Ford, but not an Alfa Romeo or Khaima's bike either. The design layout initially provides for all-wheel drive.

The wiring is of high quality, the connectors are very tight, waterproof and difficult to remove. I was surprised that four contacts in the electronic throttle block are gold-plated, as are the mating pins on the throttle itself. Remove the valve cover. The motor is a 16-valve, timing chain drive with a bush-roller chain, a phase shifter clutch is installed on the intake camshaft, proudly referred to as Mitsubishi MIVEC(Mivek). This clutch, like that of Alpha, turns the intake camshaft with oil pressure, the supply of which is regulated by a solenoid valve.
The candles are littered with burnt oil.
Let's take a closer look - again there are no hydraulics! Instead of them - one-piece pushers, like on Ford. Again, savings and trouble in adjusting the valves, and the cams of the shafts are so narrow!

To our relief, the motor is quite simple in terms of timing marks! The crankshaft pulley is positioned with a pin, there is a mark on the exhaust sprocket, on Mivek too (and not one, but you won’t fool us), there is also a mark on the crankshaft (and again not one, but the Japs won’t fool us here either). Before dismantling the timing, we set the crankshaft to TDC, outline all the marks, put down additional ones - in the future we will have no problems with installation. And no special tool is needed, like Ford's.

Valve clearances were measured and all data recorded on a plate. In general, the gaps are in the tolerance, only at the inlet are two extreme intake valves at the very bottom of the tolerance. The pushers are very thin and there is practically no margin for adjustment in case of flat grinding, because. the thickness changes on a thin central section-tubercle, next to which the nominal thickness of the cup is indicated by numbers, but the rest of the bottom is very thin. Punching prices according to catalogs showed that one pusher costs around 500 rubles. For a gas setup, this is a very bleak engine. But there is no gas here and adjustment of the gaps is not yet required, so we begin to disassemble the motor further.
The side support of the engine is simple rubber, we do not observe any hydraulic cushions. On the one side - reliably On the other hand, it's cheap. The chain is in perfect condition! The tensioner has gone out by no more than 15-20% of the stroke, has a ratchet-dog (you can not be afraid of jumping the chain on a muffled engine), is driven by oil pressure. The design of the timing drive is one-to-one, like that of Ford. But the oil pump is bolted to the front cover from the inside and rotates by the crankshaft. Not a bad decision.

After unscrewing the exhaust manifold (access is also convenient and easy) and the side bracket, the head can be removed by first unscrewing the tie bolts. Having removed the pan (glued on the sealant), we take out the pistons. And here the pleasant impressions about the car, the wiring and the Japanese, the lights of engineering, begin to disappear. And if you google, you can find out that the motor has the German roots of Mercedes.
The pistons look like burnt grandma's pies left in the oven for a couple of hours too long. Connecting rods and liners - jewelry! The connecting rod is thinner and lighter than the prior one, the connecting rod bolts are completely unimaginably miniature. The inserts are barely noticeable on the table, they are so narrow and thin. The piston pin is pressed into the upper head of the connecting rod, which complicates potential repairs in the future.
The rings were simply amazing - if the Priorovsky ring thickness is 1.2-1.5-2.5 mm, then Mitsubishi has 1 -0.7-2.0mm! The second ring is like foil, it is so thin and fragile! The oil scraper rings are type-setting, they completely lay down and clogged with coke in the grooves.
On the Lancer forum, topics about maslozhorstvo 4A91 and its causes are painted for dozens of pages, but hardly anyone guessed one of the reasons for the occurrence of rings on this motor. If on Ford this was due to the lack of drilling in the oil scraper ring groove, then Mitsubishi has drillings. But the engine does not have nozzles for cooling the pistons with oil! In the sixteen valve! Forced!! The light of engineering has gone out, the search for the seal of the Emperor is useless, it has long been sacrificed to a god named Economy...
Here you have burnt pistons-pies, here are the occurrence of rings, from local overheating and lack of lubrication ...

The worst thing is with the 4th piston and cylinder. Piston skirt with black scoring is a consequence of oil starvation. There is also a vertical scuff on the cylinder (it is hard to see in the photo - the light block lit up the frame). What he saw vividly reminded the VAZ 8-valve Samara, where the same scuffs were always present on the pistons after several years of running, because. there are no oil pumps either.
The rest of the cylinders are in good condition, there are risks of honing.
Measurement of pistons and cylinders showed a disappointing picture. Wear on the piston skirts was 0.04 mm, which, with a cylinder diameter in the plus by 0.04 mm, turned into a gap 0.08 mm! Let me remind you that the wear limit on Zhiguli is 0.15 mm! That's Japanese quality...
Against this background, you can completely close your eyes to the taper and ellipse of the cylinders in some miserable 0.01 mm.

The author no longer expected anything good from the Mitsubishi cylinder head, and he also stopped looking for the Emperor's seal. The head is the most common, although well-made. The valve stems are 5 mm in diameter, there are no oil supply tappets in the wells and they are lubricated by gravity, the shifting of the pushers is visible and there is still imperceptible wear along the well, the valves are covered with a coat of soot, and valve stem seals - completely zadubeli.
After searching and evaluating the availability and options for spare parts for this engine, the owner of the car was called to a consultation to decide what to do next with this miracle of Japanese engine building.

After a detailed demonstration and narration of all the nuances, consequences and their causes, the client's face turned crimson red. Nobody expected such a picture. There are currently no repair pistons for this engine, almost all spare parts are only original, except for the cylinder head gasket and spark plugs. One piston with a finger costs under 7000 rubles, a set of rings for 1 piston - 1600 rubles, etc. According to the mind, if done with a guarantee, then the block must be dismantled and sleeved either under the old pistons, or even better - under the new ones. The price of a potential repair grew by leaps and bounds. The client decided so - "we will not climb further, we change the rings and caps, and the car is for sale - the time has come." But the "time" came at the wrong time, the client swept through the salons of dealers and became sad from the new price tags. A familiar mechanic at the officials completely delighted the client - "you still have a double resource, we open them on runs of 50-60 tkm." Officials have no spare parts, and horse prices (one valve stem seal - 220 rubles and then on order, I ordered a good non-original for 60 rubles / piece). At the same time, the same mechanic made a reservation that he had opened the engine on his Lancer, there was the same badass, and after replacing the rings, the oil consumption disappeared, and the mileage after the repair was already 20 tkm.
As a result, the client did not change his decision - "for now we will limit ourselves to replacing rings and caps and will drive until the next repair," and he also changed his mind about selling the car.
The client did not agree to the proposal to embed oil nozzles into the block, and it’s risky for me - oil pressure in the system is important for Mivek, and I didn’t want to take on the cost of the block in the event of a mistake.

The author picked up and ordered a set of new rings (original), new cylinder head bolts (original), caps (Ajusa) and candles (Denso). Cylinder head gasket - non-original from Viti Reinz.
The restless Japs, after two years of production of the 4A91 engine, modernized it and replaced the valve stem seals with a version from the 1.6 liter engine. The difference in the caps is shown in one of the photos (the caps of the old model are on the left, the new ones are on the right).
The valves were cleaned of soot (it is absolutely impossible to grind them to the saddles) and assembled the head.
The pistons were washed, cleaned of carbon deposits, especially carefully - the grooves for the rings. They didn’t change the connecting rod bearings, and the tightening of the connecting rod bolts must be approached extremely scrupulously - the moment there is very small, and pulling out the threaded body with the subsequent destruction of the bolt is very simple. Without experience, it's definitely not worth it to meddle here.

Tightening the cylinder head bolts is also akin to shamanism - the bolts are thin, the block is aluminum, but in the instructions of Viti Reinz there is a diagram and tightening torques - everything went smoothly. The throttle valve was washed from abundant soot deposits to a shine (it’s strange - where does the soot come from, because there is no EGR valve on the engine, although the place for the channel is provided both by a gasket and a manifold - but they also reduced the price), the generator was sorted out (the client complained about whistling in the morning) - Japanese bearings have dried out in three years.
In general, the assembly of the motor was quick - access is easy, the motor is relatively simple.

Adjustment of thermal valve clearances on Mitsubishi Lancer engines is necessary for their proper operation, such cars with engines 4a91 1.5 and 4B11 2.0

Checking must be done every 100 t.km. on gasoline cars and every 30-50 t.km. on vehicles equipped with LPG.

There was a case for Lancer X 2.0 with mileage 130 t.km. with HBO last 60 t.km. clearances at the outlet were already less than 0.15 mm, and on some it reached 0.05 mm! With such gaps, irreversible processes of destruction of the valve and seats begin as a result of insufficient cooling and local overheating, a decrease in size and accelerated wear of the mating parts of the mechanism.

This engine has a proprietary MIVEC variable valve timing system.from Japanese factory
Mitsubishi Motors, which made it possible for designers and engineers to remove quite high power with moderate fuel consumption and low levels of harmful substances in exhaust gases, with the presence of an exhaust catalytic converter of course.

We do not recommend removing the catalysts in the exhaust system of a car, without checking the resistance in the manifold and absolutely necessary, if the speed can be raised to 6000 rpm, then 99% of the catalyst is in order. After removal, the "check" lights up, more fuel consumption and higher noise, the smell is not very good, more air pollution!

Before starting work on the Lancer 10 engine, the plastic decorative cover, hitch is removed, interfering hoses and pipes are disconnected, partially gas equipment elements, ignition coils and their cables with brackets and the valve cover. It is necessary to give time for the temperature to drop to at least 40 degrees.

Tolerances are measured using high-precision probes with a pitch of 0.01 mm with fixation in the table and the results are compared with the manual.

Standard value of the factory thermal gap:

for inlet 0.20 mm,

for outlet 0.30 mm.

Mitsubishi Lancer 10 valve adjustment

starts from the first stage: the TDC of the 1st cylinder is set and the corresponding gaps are measured.

Recorded for each in a table marked with a cylinder.

If the gaps between the camshaft and the cup are outside the limits allowed by the factory then regulation is necessary. If nothing is broken, then uneven operation appears in the engine, especially at idle, trembling, pops, increased fuel consumption and a decrease in power, over time there is a loss of tightness in the seat fit and burnout of the valves as a result of insufficient cooling, which leads to loss of compression up to 6-7 MPa in this cylinder, and to full, which will entail expensive engine repairs from 12,000 UAH.

To perform the work, after preliminary disassembly, the chain is removed from the camshaft stars and the camshafts themselves are dismantled.

Then they take outwhich have the wrong gap and their thickness is measured, and those whose thickness will provide the necessary thermal gap are put in their place. There are many new original ones with different parameters on sale and, accordingly, the cost is slightly different depending on the supplier and availability, although I have it in stock .

The thickness of the glasses is checked with a micrometer and the appropriate thickness is set in the corresponding well of the block head. Then the camshafts are installed in place, the shaft bearings are pre-tightened to 12 Nm and checked with probes, if necessary, the procedure for selecting glasses is repeated until the distance is optimal for this power unit.

Mitsubishi valve tappets

new in stock for engine exchange Lancer X 2.0. It is possible to order any size.

1. To check on a warm engine, start the engine and warm it up so that the coolant temperature reaches 80 ° - 9 CPC.

2. For simplification of performance of check of backlashes turn out all spark plugs from a head of cylinders.

3. Remove the cylinder head cover.

4. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the groove on the crankshaft pulley matches the installation mark "T" on the ignition timing indicator scale located on the lower timing belt cover.

5. Move your hand up and down the rocker arms of cylinders #1 and #4 to determine which cylinder the piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. If in one of the cylinders there is a gap in the drive of the intake and exhaust valves, then it is in this cylinder that the piston is at TDC of the compression stroke.

6. If the piston of cylinder No. 1 is at TDC of the compression stroke, it is necessary to check and adjust the clearances in the valve drive in the places shown by the white arrow in the figure. If the piston of cylinder No. 4 is at the TDC of the compression stroke, then check and adjust the clearances in the valve drive in the places shown by the black arrow in the figure.

7. Measure the clearance in the valve actuator. If the clearance does not correspond to the nominal value, then adjust it as follows.

(a) Loosen the rocker arm adjusting screw locknut.

b) Adjust the valve actuator clearance by turning the adjusting screw and measuring the clearance with a feeler gauge.

Rated value (on a warm engine):

4G1 series engines:

outlet valve…………………….. 0.25 mm

4G9-SOHC series engines:

inlet valve……………………….. 0.20 mm

exhaust valve…………………….. 0.30 mm

Nominal value (on a cold engine):

4G1 series engines:

exhaust valve……………………… 0.17mm

4G9-SOHC series engines:

inlet valve………………………… 0.09 mm

exhaust valve……………………… 0.20 mm

c) While holding (not turning) the rocker arm adjusting screw with a screwdriver, tighten the locknut securely.

8. Rotate the crankshaft 360° clockwise until the groove on the crankshaft pulley aligns with the “T” alignment mark on the ignition timing indicator.

9. Adjust the clearances in the drive of the remaining valves in accordance with paragraph (7).

10. Install the cylinder head cover.

11. Install the spark plugs and tighten them to the specified torque.

Torque………………………. 25 N m

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