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Each of us may encounter such a problem as the absence of a familiar buzzing sound when turning on the PC. At the same time, the system will boot well (at least without failures), everything seems to be fine, but there is no such sound as we are used to.
If such troubles have not passed you by, then your computer fan is not working and you definitely need to do something about it!
Operating the device without a cooler is prohibited, since without cooling you may face serious troubles.
Most electronics are sensitive to overheating, and if your PC's rear fan isn't working, subsequent repairs can be more expensive. What to do in such a situation? We'll talk about this today.
Why doesn't the cooler work? There are not many reasons why a fan on a computer may not work. This PC element is one of the simplest, but at the same time the most important in the entire system, because it is responsible for cooling sensitive electronic parts.
Here are a few of the most common problems, which are most often the answer to the question: why does the cooler not work?
So, we have found out the main reasons why a fan may fail. Next, let's talk about how such malfunctions are eliminated.
The computer fan does not work: how to deal with the problem?
If your fan has failed, you should never use your computer. But what to do? In general, self-repair is not recommended, since a device that is still working can be broken, which can lead to a variety of consequences.
Experts from Expert will help you solve any problems with the cooler, regardless of your PC model.
- There are usually two solutions to the problem: The fan may be in good working order, but it may also develop lubricant, which can significantly deteriorate the quality of its operation, even to the point of failure. In such cases, the fan is dismantled, completely disassembled, new lubricant is applied, the connection is re-installed and the operation is tested.
- Option two: replacing the part. Repairing fans is usually impossible. Yes, and inappropriate. The cost of components is cheap, but there can be a lot of work. As part of this work, we completely dismantle the old cooler, install a new one (you can buy it yourself, or the technician will bring it with you), connect and check the functionality of the replaced part.
If your laptop's fan keeps turning off and not working properly, this is a very serious problem. When the cooling system stops, the device overheats, which can lead to its failure even despite the presence of built-in protection that turns off the device when a critical temperature is reached. Next, we’ll look at what to do if the fan doesn’t spin, and also why the module in question may not work normally when turned on.
Main reasons for fan stopping
There may be more than one reason why a laptop cooler stops functioning or turns off periodically. Let's list the main ones:
- Heavy pollution. Because of this, immediately when you turn on the laptop, it can make a lot of noise, even crackling, and sometimes the fan simply stops.
- Failure of the element itself, which can also be diagnosed independently (how to do this will be described below).
- Damage to the motherboard components responsible for rotating the blades.
But before disassembling the device and performing other complex actions, make sure that the absence of blade noise is not caused by objective reasons. Install a small utility (for example, Core Temp) that shows the CPU temperature in real time.
In some models, the value of this parameter, at which the cooler automatically turns off, is quite high - about 45 degrees. This is done to reduce the noise of the laptop and is in no way a malfunction. If the device stops at higher temperatures, we can immediately talk about a hardware or software problem.
Disassembling a laptop to access the cooling system
To be able to dismantle the cooling system, you need to disassemble the laptop. In most cases, approximately the same algorithm of actions works, however, the dismantling of some elements may differ in different models. So, in modern laptops, the keyboard is usually attached to a special panel with plastic latches. But on some devices it can be screwed onto both the top and back covers.
In most cases, the disassembly order is as follows:
When the cooler is very dirty, you also need to clean the entire cooling system, which will require removing the radiator. Please note that in this case, when assembling the laptop, you will need new thermal paste and, possibly, fresh thermal pads. Otherwise, when you turn on the laptop, even with a clean cooling system, you will notice that it does not stop overheating.
What to do with the fan after dismantling
There are two options here:
- The cooler is simply very noisy and cannot cope with cooling. It needs to be cleaned and lubricated.
- It doesn't work at all. In this case, perform additional diagnostics.
We disassemble and clean the cooler
Please note that disassembly and cleaning can only be done by the so-called. collapsible cooler - not all laptops use this kind of cooler. Nevertheless, let's look at how this can be done:
Next, all that remains is to reassemble the fan in reverse order and make sure that it now does not immediately stop and spins easily. After this, the problem that causes the device to turn itself off should disappear.
Checking the performance of the fan
If you have any doubts about the serviceability of the device, you can independently diagnose it. To do this, you need to know the purpose of the leads with which it is connected to the system board. There are three in total:
- red, continuously supplying 5 VDC to the cooler;
- white, controlling the speed of rotation of the blades, supplying an additional 0 to 3 V (at zero it turns off);
- black - mass.
Knowing these parameters, you can test the device when turning on an external DC source. If the fan does not work after applying voltage, this indicates a malfunction of the servo drive and the need to replace the electric motor or the entire device.
Problems with the cooling fan usually occur in used cars with decent mileage. This breakdown manifests itself in different ways; the fan may not work stably, may turn on late or not turn on at all. Today we will talk about the last fault, that is, the situation when the cooling fan does not turn on at a certain moment. You will learn about why this happens, where to look for the reason, and also in what sequence. Let's take "" as an example, but the method and reasons will be almost the same for all VAZ models.
Finding a breakdown is not so much labor-intensive as it is comprehensive, since there can be quite a few reasons why the fan does not turn on, from a banal fuse blown to more complex problems associated with a malfunctioning thermostat or problems with the electrical wiring of the vehicle’s on-board network.
If the engine boils, but the fan still does not turn on, then the first thing that comes to mind for most motorists is problems with the fan wiring. However, very often the wiring has nothing to do with it, and the real reason lies precisely in the thermostat. The device designed to monitor the temperature of the coolant (coolant) may fail or simply jam, after which the coolant stops circulating through the radiator, as a result, the radiator sensor does not work, and the fan itself does not turn on. Read how to check the thermostat.
The next candidate for checking is the fuse that controls the fan, if you replace it with a whole one.
If the cause is not a fuse, you need to check the fan itself directly. The power wires come to it; often they simply crumble or break off due to age. Alternatively, the reason may lie in the plug, so if everything is “humming” with the wiring, turn off the power to the fan and check the plug for a malfunction. Connect power to the fan directly, for example, from the battery; if the fan does not react in any way, we conclude that the fan is faulty.
(DVV), located on the radiator. To do this, you need to disconnect the plugs, and then connect them together, if the fan does not work - and requires replacement.
It is necessary to connect the wire going to the fuse box directly to ground (usually white with a black stripe). If after this the fan starts working, we can conclude that the second black wire has broken; try to find the break and check whether its connection to ground is reliable. After that, we connect the two wires together and see what happens, if the fan turns on, then the problem was a bad connection.
Check the fan relay, it is quite possible that the problem is there. In order to find out, simply replace it with an adjacent relay, then connect the radiator sensor wires to each other, see above. The fan will turn on - the problem is a faulty relay.
Next, you need to check the voltage to see if it is supplied to the fan through the fuse box. To do this, take a piece of wire and install it in the relay connectors; if the fan is working, the reason why the fan does not work is in the fuse box.
It is likely that voltage is not being supplied to the fan relay. To check this, you can use the "old-fashioned" method. We take a light bulb that will serve as a “control”. If there is no light bulb, just lightly strike the other end of the wire to ground, if you see a spark, there should be no problems, most likely this is not the reason. If you don’t see a spark, most likely there is no voltage in this connector, that is, there is a break in the track in the fuse block.
If, after checking all of the above, you find the reason why the radiator fan does not turn on, you only have to check one wire - the radiator sensor wire. To do this, you must remove the switch as it does not allow access to the fuse box plugs. This means we remove the plug from the fuse block and check the radiator sensor wire for a break.
We check as follows: connect the wire to the “+” terminal, install the second end into the connector of the chip. Next, remove the plug from the sensor and connect the light bulb. If there is no light bulb, make a “teal” to ground. If there is no voltage, most likely this wire is broken.
If the fan does not turn on, then the reason may be completely unexpected, for example -. Switching on does not occur for the reason that it does not enter the cylinder, while gases from the cylinder penetrate into the coolant, creating an effect known as. This plug prevents normal coolant pumping. How to understand that you have a burnout? It is enough to look into the expansion tank, if bubbles come out of it every now and then during operation - you have a burnt gasket, or there is a crack in the cylinder.
On the hottest summer days, the only salvation from the sweltering heat is a regular floor fan.
Not everyone can afford a full-fledged split system or even a mobile air conditioner. 
But unfortunately, even this inexpensive and accessible wind blower breaks down from time to time. Chinese models especially fly like seeds.
And there is an overwhelming majority of them in our market. What to do if the fan stops rotating and working? What are its main problems and why does it break down?
Let's take a closer look.
Why doesn't the fan work?
In total, there are 5 main reasons for the failure of floor fans: 
- old dried grease or lack of it
- dried out capacitor
- blown thermal relay or fuse
- turn short circuit of windings or wire breakage
- mechanical displacement of the motor shaft
The main problem of cheap models, which for some reason few people pay attention to, is incorrect casting of the blades. Because of this, an imbalance occurs, bearings break, and gaps increase. 
You cannot influence this in any way, since you already bought a fan with such an initial defect. Sometimes it seems to work, the impeller rotates normally, but it does not blow.
That is, there is no cooling air flow from it. Why is this happening?
Due to the incorrect angle of attack of the blades. Its petals are deformed and drive the air flow in a circle, rather than throwing it out. 
This effect can appear over time, after the fan has been standing in direct sunlight for a long time and its impeller, having heated up, begins to gradually change its shape.
This can only be treated by replacing the impeller with a new one.
Floor fan does not spin
The most common problem is dried out lubricant or lack of it. The fan begins to jam, lose speed and, as a result, the load on the engine increases. The wind blower no longer operates at full capacity. 
The motor, wound with a thin wire of 0.2 mm, begins to heat up and the windings gradually burn out.
How is such a defect detected? In this case, the fan stops rotating. It hums, but the impeller does not spin. 
It also happens that it starts only at 3rd speed, and does not respond at all to the first two. It just doesn't have enough power to turn the shaft.
In order to start it, you have to brazenly spin the blades like on old airplanes. 
By the way, the same symptom can occur if the starting capacitor is damaged. Without instruments, how can you find out which reason is to blame for the breakdown?
To do this, you need to at least get to the engine shaft by removing the protective casing and blades. If the shaft rotates by hand with great difficulty, then blame dirt and dried grease. 
And if it spins easily and has inertia, then most likely the air conditioner is covered. Symptom - plugged in the fan, but it does not spin. At the same time, you crank the engine up and it starts.
If you hold the fan blades with your hand while working, it may stop again. The capacitor is checked with a multimeter if it has an appropriate capacitance measurement scale.
To replace, select a new condenser according to the same parameters as indicated on the body of the old one.
By the way, a capacitor that is not yet completely dry also affects the speed. If you notice that they have fallen and the fan has begun to spin more slowly, this is a sign to check it.
The problem of tight rotation is solved by new lubrication of the bearings. So-called plain bearings are used here. Some people call them bushings. 
It’s a bit expensive to use balls in such designs, and they rattle over time. For repairs, it is not at all necessary to disassemble the entire engine. Just unscrew a few screws and spray the required areas with WD40 universal aerosol.
How to disassemble a fan - instructions with photos
How to get to the bushings without removing the engine? To begin, unscrew the central screw on the back wall of the protective casing. 
Another self-tapping screw is hidden in the adjustment button-lever for turning or stopping the fan head. 
After this, the back cover can be easily removed from its place. What's underneath? Here you can see the rotation gearbox that gives rotation to the entire head.
A special rod connects to it from below. 
The starting capacitor of the engine is fixed on top. 
By the way, keep in mind that it may not be there in different models. In this case, look for it near the speed shift buttons. 
To access the motor bearing, you will need to remove the gearbox. It is secured with three screws and supported from below by a rod. 
Tighten the screws and disconnect the rod. After this, the gearbox is removed from the shaft and you have access to the rear bushing.
There is no need to unscrew or disassemble anything else. Vedashka will do the rest for you. 
Place a narrow guide tube on the WD40 can and poke it several times into the gap between the shaft and the bearing. 
After spraying WD40, turn the shaft in different directions by hand and move it back and forth a little. 
Excess thickened grease, foreign debris and dust will gradually come out. This excess dirt can be easily removed with cotton swabs. 
If you have a thick lubricant like cyatim or litol, it is advisable to apply it to the gear worm. After these cleaning procedures, drop a few drops of sewing machine oil onto the bearing from the outside. 
Just don't apply it too much. Otherwise, it will eventually spread all over and dust will stick to it, turning back into dirt. As a result, you will again get a wedge and a problem with fan rotation.
In some models, felt washers are placed near the bushings. They are saturated with oil and when heated, the oil flows onto the shaft, lubricating it. 
Everything is assembled in reverse order. Rod - three gearbox screws - outer cover.
By the way, if you overtighten the central screw on the back cover, and this is a self-tapping screw, not a screw, it can pass through the plastic of the rotary gearbox and rest against the shaft.
You will again have problems with revs and jamming. Sometimes the cause of a breakdown is trivial and unpredictable.
We've sorted out the rear bearing, then move on to the front part of the fan. There is a protective cap in the center here. 
It unscrews, attention - clockwise, since the thread here is left-handed.
You throw it off and remove the propeller from the shaft. You now have access to the front journal bearing. 
The principle here is the same. First, squeeze out and soften the old grease and dirt with a Vedashka, and then apply new one. 
After that, put the propeller back on and close the lid. Having completed the repair, turn on the fan at high speeds, let it run for a few minutes, and switch to the speed required.
Short circuit of windings or broken wires
If the damage is more complex and simple lubrication does not help, you will have to disassemble the fan in more detail.
First, you do all the disassembly machinations as indicated above. After removing the propeller, unscrew the plastic front locknut, which is located immediately behind it, and remove the entire protective frame. 
In your hands you still have the motor itself and the leg in which the power wires pass and the push-button mechanism is located. 
You disassemble this leg by unscrewing 6 screws. 
First of all, check the soldering of the wires. It is quite possible that one of them, or even several, has fallen off or burned off.
If everything is intact, how can you figure out which wire goes where and is responsible for what? Start testing with two wires from the power plug.
One of them, let it be black (as in the photo below), goes directly through the backlight to the fan motor. 
The second wire goes to the lower terminal of the dial switch (button 0). 
Next, by pressing the corresponding buttons - 1st speed, 2nd, 3rd, certain switch contacts are closed, and thereby the engine speed changes. 
Each wire from these buttons goes to its own terminal on the winding, with a greater or lesser number of turns. By applying voltage to them, you make the propeller spin faster or slower.
Floor fan connection diagram
A simplified diagram of a wind blower looks like this. 
Typical circuits for most inexpensive 3-speed floor fans are something like this:
Pressing each button is accompanied by the closure of its contact group. 
In this case, the other contact group opens at this moment.
Sometimes these contacts burn out or do not reach their plate. Then you lose any of the speeds.
All this is checked simply with a Chinese multimeter, in circuit continuity mode. 
If your very first wire breaks or there is no contact on it, the fan motor simply will not start. Therefore, if the fan is completely inoperative, check it first.
Unless, of course, before you make sure that the plug itself and the power cord from it are working. This is also caused by the tester.
Place one end of the probes on the pin of the plug, and touch the other end to the contact pad on the “0” button. If working properly, there should be zero resistance. 
Then you can check the wires in the same way at all speeds. A contact probe on the plug - another probe on the outgoing wire from the corresponding speed button to the engine. 
If there are zeros everywhere, then the switch and wires are working.
Next, check the second contact on the plug and the wiring that goes directly past the switch to the engine. Make sure your cord is intact here too. 
Only after this can you proceed to checking the windings of the motor itself.
How to check fan windings
Set the resistance on the multimeter to 2000 ohms. Next, in order not to bite the wires anywhere, at the place where the capacitor is connected, strip off the insulation a little.
Look for the common point of the circuit, as in the diagram below. 
Having found it, you call up the resistance of the winding. To do this, touch the contacts on the switch with the second probe one by one.
Approximate fan winding resistance values can be as follows: 
Of course, they may differ slightly for different models, but the most important thing is that there is no breakage or short circuit. Measurements can show either several hundred Ohms or a little more than 1 kOhm.
It all depends on the power of the fan and the cross-section of the wire.
The resistance between the terminals of the windings will be lower - 100-200 Ohms. 
The capacitor winding and the total resistance of all windings combined are also checked. 
Here is the most competent and complete video on checking the performance of fan windings with a multimeter.
If checking the integrity of the windings also does not reveal any deviations or defects, move on. To do this, you completely disassemble the fan, as they say, to the bones.
Engine disassembly and malfunction
First, the engine must be freed of all plastic parts. Unscrew the 4 screws from the front side and remove the cover. 
On new models, in addition to screws, there are also latches. They need to be bent with a screwdriver. 
To disconnect the leg, you need to find another screw, which is usually hidden under the plug.
Loosen it and pull out the mounting shaft. To dismantle the wires that pass through the leg, you will need to bite them out or unsolder them from the terminal blocks on the speed buttons. 
At the same time, write down or sketch where each one is initially connected.
As a result, you should have a bare fan motor in your hands without anything unnecessary.
Let's take it apart. Unscrew the screws holding the back cover together. 
At the same time, before disassembling, be sure to put marks on all covers and hardware indicating how everything was originally assembled. 
Otherwise, after incorrect docking, you will lose alignment. There will be problems with shaft jamming and blade rotation.
Thermal safety relay malfunction
After removing the bearing, you get to the windings themselves. Among the bundle of power wires coming from the switch, look for a special thermal relay. 
Very often the engine stops working after it burns out. This relay should operate and open the circuit at a winding temperature of 135-145 degrees.
After cooling, the relay closes again and the fan starts. So, sometimes it burns out completely and actually plays the role of a fuse. 
If your fan often turns off and starts again on its own, this protection is to blame. Know that it doesn't just work. This means that your shaft is either jammed, or the windings are exhausted and they are overheating.
Overheating of the windings may be associated with the destruction of the small impeller, which is located on the shaft inside the engine itself. It is designed to blow air and reduce the temperature of the coils.
The cheapest models do not have a temperature sensor-relay; everything is connected directly. Based on this, if your “thermal fuse” has burned out, you can, of course, bypass it and start the wind blower. But at the same time you will be left without fire protection. 
This relay is also checked by the tester. 
There should be a chain between its legs in continuity mode.
Shaft displacement and broken turns
If all the parts and relays inside are intact, all that remains is to carefully examine the windings, shaft and rotor through a magnifying glass. You may see broken or damaged copper strands. 
This happens when the bearing jumps out of its seat and the rotor begins to hit the windings.
With modern Chinese floor fans, the screw connection between the two halves of the motor quite often loosens. Do not forget that the shaft on both sides is mounted on self-centering copper-graphite bushings, which are tightly locked in the covers.
When assembling and tightening them, you can lightly tap the transformer iron itself with a hammer so that the shaft rotates easily, with little inertia. Someone tries to catch the center on their own and creates such a quiet horror. 
Eventually the shaft falls out of the bearing, resulting in a wedge. As a result, the rotor begins to scratch the windings and its surface. 
Also keep in mind that if your fan fell and then stopped working and rotating, then the bushings are most likely misaligned here too. Nothing else can break from such a fall.
This will not damage the capacitor, and the windings covered with varnish will not break. Perhaps some buttons may move away. But first of all, check the alignment of the bearings. And then everything will work as it should. 
Unfortunately, you cannot cope with a mechanical defect in the windings or rotor, as well as their intra-turn short circuits. It is not rational to rewind the engines of cheap wind blowers; it will be much easier to buy a new model.
However, this is already the last stage of verification, and there is hope that you will never get to it, having found damage somewhere else using the methods discussed above.
No automotive system will work properly if the temperature is not optimal. This is especially true for the motor, which works very actively, which is why it gets very hot. To ensure that the unit does not overheat, its design includes a special cooling system, which is responsible for heat removal. The system contains a device called a radiator through which coolant moves.
Along with it, a fan is installed in the car, which circulates the air. Naturally, the fan may fail from time to time. What are the typical malfunctions of this fan? How to fix them? Let's figure it all out.
Frequent radiator fan malfunctions
If the cooling system fan breaks down, sooner or later the power unit will overheat. That is why you need to carefully monitor the condition of the fan, or rather, its performance. If the fan is broken, it is necessary to determine the cause of the failure as soon as possible and fix it. Most often, a car radiator fan either does not work at all or works constantly. Let us specify the manifestations of these problems.
In the first case, the fan may not turn on at all, or simply not turn off. Despite the fact that there are only two problems, there are several reasons for their occurrence. You can check for yourself how efficient the fan is. To do this, you just need to start the engine without moving.
Wait a little while until the coolant warms up to above the optimum temperature. When the temperature is sufficient, that is, goes beyond the red line of the corresponding sensor, then the fan should turn on, causing additional noise to appear under the hood. But if the temperature needle has already gone beyond the red mark and the fan does not turn on, then immediately stop the engine, wait until it cools down, and then start looking for the causes of the breakdown.
First, inspect the fan motor. To check, connect it directly to the battery if the engine is carburetor. In cases with injection engines, you need to remove the connector from the sensor, after which the fan should work, and in emergency mode. If after connecting the fan does not turn on, you will have to buy a new one. But if it works, then everything is fine with it, and you need to check not it, but, for example, the temperature sensor. Often, it is mounted in a radiator.
Disconnect it by disconnecting the wires and shorting them together. If the fan turns on at this moment, the sensor is broken and must be replaced. Check the fan power wires for breaks. Be sure to inspect the fuse and relay that supplies power to the fan. The fuse is responsible for sound signals, so to check its functionality, just press the horn. The relay needs to be checked for contact sticking. You should also check the functionality of the device with voltage applied to it. If the reaction is zero, then the relay needs to be changed. If you examine everything carefully, you will probably determine what the problem is.
Now let's look at the constant operation of the fan. One of the possible reasons for the constant operation of the cooling fan may be sticking of the relay contacts in the position in which voltage is supplied to the electric motor. Another such situation is possible when the thermostat is jammed in the position that corresponds to the movement of liquid in a small circle. But this is only possible if the car does not have a separate temperature sensor that is responsible for activating the fan.
Then the liquid overheats, the fan turns on, but no coolant flows into the radiator. The fluid temperature will remain high although the fan will be running. The thermostat may also get stuck in an intermediate position, that is, the liquid will flow to the radiator, but due to partial opening it will not completely enter the radiator, that is, it will not cool completely. However, if the fan is constantly running, then this is not as bad as its non-functioning. Therefore, you need to know exactly what to do if a unit breakdown is detected.
How to troubleshoot a radiator fan
Before removing the fan, disconnect the ground terminal from the car battery along with all the wires that go to the fan. Only after this can the fan be removed. To ensure that the breakdown does not recur and the cooling process proceeds more efficiently, experts recommend cleaning the fan from time to time, removing various types of contaminants. To clean you need to use a brush.
It happens that the fan breaks due to ordinary dirt. To check if this is true, peel back the engine casing and assess the condition of the equipment. As practice shows, you will have to buy new brushes, because they most often break due to too much dirt and premature wear.
Quite often the fan breaks due to poor contacts. This phenomenon is typical for oxidized contacts if you have never cleaned them. Therefore, before checking the fan, check the wires and, if necessary, replace them.
The next stage is to check the performance of the rotor and its windings. If a break or short circuit is detected, you will need to inspect each turn in order to determine the breakdown. Clean the winding in advance using a metal brush and a cloth soaked in solvent. It is prohibited to use products that contain aggressive elements.
If you determine that the electric motor is broken, you will have to buy a new device. If you are on the road, the engine temperature has become critical, but the radiator has not turned on, then first you need to stop the car, and then wait until the engine cools down. Next you can try the following:
1) Pick up speed above 60 km/h, so the liquid will be cooled by oncoming air flows;
2) Short the wires that go to the sensor to force the fan to turn on;
3) Turn on the car's interior heating system at full power, so some of the heat from the fluid will be lost to the interior.
Other radiator faults
It happens that the radiator fan turns on prematurely. The temperature sensor is to blame for this. It often incorrectly determines the temperature, which is why it sends a signal to the fan at the wrong time.
In this matter, you need to choose the right sensor. They are of two types - summer And winter, and their temperature conditions are different. For example, a winter sensor will work later, and a summer sensor - earlier. If you choose the wrong device, then do not be surprised that the fan in your car will turn on either earlier or later than necessary. The sensor may be working correctly, but the temperature range is not suitable for the device.
Many car enthusiasts underestimate how important and useful a car radiator fan is. If you do not pay attention to the breakdown, you risk paying a decent amount to repair an overheated engine. That is why it is necessary to diagnose the fan problem in time and fix it as soon as possible.
