Timing replacement Nissan Almera required once every 60 thousand kilometers or after 4 years (whichever comes first). Untimely replacement of the timing belt on the Nissan Almera can lead to breakage or shearing of the teeth, and this, in turn, can bend the valves, damage the pistons and seats. In general, bent valves are a guarantee of expensive engine repairs. It's better not to bring it up. Another important point is the pump, the pulley of which is also rotated by the timing belt. So when replacing the belt, it may turn out that it is necessary to additionally replace the pumps, you should be prepared for that.

Further timing diagram nissan almera on which all the important points are clearly indicated.

To get directly to replace the belt, you will have to carry out quite serious and labor-intensive work.
1. Remove the protection of the power unit and the right mudguard of the engine compartment. Then the Almera accessory drive belt.
2. We insert a wooden block between the engine crankcase and the subframe so that the right support of the power unit no longer supports the weight of the unit. To do this, raise the engine with a wide mounting blade. After all, we have to remove one of the engine mounts.
3. We take out from the holders located on the support bracket, the tubes for supplying fuel to the rail and supplying fuel vapors to the receiver.
4. Using the “16” head, unscrew the three bolts securing the support bracket to the top cover of the timing drive.
5. Using the same tool, unscrew the two bolts securing the support to the body. (be careful they are different lengths).
6. Remove the right support of the power unit.
7. Using the “13” head, unscrew the three bolts and two nuts securing the upper timing cover.
8. When unscrewing the bolt securing the crankshaft pulley, it is necessary to block the crankshaft from turning. To do this, the assistant must engage fifth gear and press the brake pedal. If at the same time it is not possible to unscrew the pulley mounting bolt due to turning the crankshaft, then the shaft must be locked. To gain access to the flywheel ring gear, the crankshaft position sensor must be removed.
9. To do this, unscrew the two bolts with a “10” head and remove the sensor.
10. We insert a mounting blade through the window in the clutch housing between the teeth of the flywheel crown, designed to start the engine with a starter.

Using the “18” head, we unscrew the bolt securing the auxiliary drive pulley. We take out the bolt.

Remove the accessory drive pulley. Then we remove the plastic covers of the timing belt casing Nissan Almera.

Unfortunately, on the Nissan Almera engine, there are no special timing marks on the crankshaft pulleys and camshafts. In order not to disturb the valve timing, before removing the timing belt, it is necessary to set the crankshaft and camshafts to the TDC (top dead center) position of the compression stroke of the 1st cylinder.

To determine the position of the camshafts, it is necessary to remove two rubber-metal plugs from the holes in the left end of the cylinder head.

Remove the air path resonator. In the center of the plug (rubber array), we pierce a hole with a screwdriver. Using a screwdriver, as a lever, we remove the plug from the hole in the cylinder head. Remove the other plug in the same way. The main thing before replacing the belt is not to forget to buy new plugs to replace the damaged ones.

We turn the crankshaft clockwise by the bolt securing the accessory drive pulley until the grooves on the ends of the camshafts take a horizontal position (located parallel to the plane of the cover and cylinder head connector) and are shifted down relative to the axes of the camshafts.

To fix the camshafts when replacing a belt from a metal plate 5 mm thick, a fixture of a certain size should be made (see photo below).

We install the fixture in the grooves of the camshaft shafts of the Nissan Almera engine.

To check that the crankshaft is in the TDC position of the pistons of the 1st and 4th cylinders, a hole with an M10 thread is provided in the cylinder block, into which a special mounting pin with a threaded length of 75 mm must be screwed. When the crankshaft is in the TDC position of the pistons of the 1st and 4th cylinders, the finger should rest against the milled platform on the cheek of the crankshaft and block the shaft when trying to turn it clockwise.

Using the “E-14” head, we unscrew the process plug from the threaded hole in the cylinder block located on the front side of the block, in the region of the 1st cylinder - under the emergency oil pressure indicator sensor (for clarity, shown on the removed engine).

A bolt with an M10 thread and a length of about 100 mm can be used as a setting pin. We screw two M10 nuts onto the bolt and lock them so that the length of the threaded part is exactly 75 mm. The made fixture - we screw the adjusting pin into the threaded hole of the cylinder block.

When the crankshaft is in the TDC position of the pistons of the 1st and 4th cylinders, the mounting pin (1) will screw into the hole to the end of its thread and rest against the milled platform (2) on the crankshaft cheek (for clarity, the photo is shown on the dismantled engine and with removed oil pan). In this case, the crankshaft cannot be turned clockwise.

If, when screwing in the adjusting pin, you feel that it has rested, and the end of the nut on the finger does not come into contact with the end of the boss of the hole in the cylinder block (there will be a gap between the nut and the boss), then turn the crankshaft a little counterclockwise for the pulley mounting bolt. Then we screw the mounting pin into the block hole to the end (until the ends of the pin nut and the boss of the hole in the block touch) and turn the crankshaft clockwise until the shaft cheek pad stops against the finger.

Having loosened the tightening of the tensioner fastening nut with the “13” wrench, we turn the roller counterclockwise, reducing the tension of the timing belt.

We remove the belt from the tension roller and then from the coolant pump pulleys, crankshaft and camshafts. The Almera timing belt has 131 teeth and a width of 25.4 mm.

When replacing the belt, the tensioner assembly and idler must also be replaced. We unscrew the nut securing the tensioner and remove it. With a Torx T-50 wrench, unscrew the screw securing the support roller. Remove the support roller and roller bushing. Install the new support roller in reverse order.

When installing a new timing belt with arrows on it, orient it so that the arrows coincide with the direction of belt movement (clockwise).

We install the belt on the gear pulleys of the crankshaft, coolant pump and camshaft pulleys.

Then, at the same time, we put the belt on the roller of the tensioner and install the device on the stud of the coolant pump housing. When installing the tensioner, we insert the bent end of the bracket into the recess of the coolant pump housing.

We turn the adjusting pin out of the hole in the cylinder block. We take out the plate from the grooves of the camshafts. We turn the crankshaft two turns clockwise for the bolt securing the auxiliary drive pulley until the grooves on the ends of the camshafts match.

We screw the adjusting pin into the hole in the cylinder block to check the correct installation of the crankshaft in the TDC position of the 1st - 4th cylinders. If necessary, repeat the installation of the timing belt.

We unscrew the mounting pin from the hole in the cylinder block and install the screw plug in place. Install the removed parts in reverse order.

With light blows of a hammer with a plastic striker, we press new plugs into the holes of the cylinder head.

Further assembly of the engine is carried out in the reverse order. We replace the auxiliary drive pulley mounting bolt with a new one and tighten it with a torque of 30 Nm, then turn it 80 ± 5 degrees.

When the belt tension is correct, the movable indicator of the automatic device should coincide with the notch of the fixed indicator of the tensioner.

If the movable pointer is offset relative to the fixed counterclockwise, the belt tension is not enough. If it is shifted clockwise, the belt will be tightened.

In both cases, the belt tension must be adjusted. Why take the key “by 13” and loosening the tightening of the nut fastening the tensioning device, with the hexagon “by 6” turn the roller in the right direction, then holding the hedron tighten the roller with the key by 13.

The timing chain Nissan Almera G15 is changed in a car service in compliance with all the required rules, but it will cost you a lot. You can do the work with your own hands so as not to open your wallet. You just need to follow all the instructions exactly so as not to aggravate the situation.

How to understand that it is necessary to service the timing belt?

Almost all Nissan Almera engines, including the Nissan Almera Classic 1.6, are equipped with a timing chain drive. There are only a few engines that the manufacturer has equipped with a timing belt drive. The gas distribution in it has phases that open at the right time, and this reduces gasoline consumption and exhaust pollution.

The chain is good in that it gives maximum performance over the first 150-200 thousand km, it almost never breaks, it only stretches, shifts, which protects the valves from damage.

Replacing the chain, belt is carried out according to the advice of the developers. But sometimes the on-board driver tells you about errors 0330 and 0340. These errors indicate that the phases have shifted from the shaft sensor. An oscilloscope will help you pinpoint the cause of the error, but in most cases this indicates a stretched circuit. And in this situation, it is already necessary to change it. Another prerequisite for the replacement is increased gas mileage, regular incomprehensible sounds of metal knocking coming from under the hood.

If you have such signs, then replacing the timing chain with a Nissan Almera H16 car is mandatory:

1. The appearance of errors 0335 and 0340.
2. When the engine is idling, extraneous ringing is heard.
3. The engine often fails to start the first time.
4. When idling, unstable turns appear.
5. When you move, jerks appear, and the motor loses performance.

How to change an element

It should be noted that replacing the timing chain in the Nissan Almera N16 will cost you 8-10 thousand rubles, by doing it yourself, you will still save a lot.

Replacement must be carried out on a lift or using a pit. This is necessary for faster and easier access to the right place.

Tools:

1. Wooden block.
2. A hammer.
3. Sealant.
4. Degreaser.
5. Wrench.
6. Tanks for working off and antifreeze.
7. Chisel.
8. torque wrench.
9. Hexagon heads.
10. Clean rag.

On the Nissan Almera, the replacement should take place in this order:

1. Turn off the power to all ignition coils, and then unscrew them. Be sure to sign them so that later you don’t confuse their location and don’t get another problem with it.
2. The air pipes must be disconnected from the valve cover.
3. Find the mounting bolts, then you need to unscrew them and remove the valve cover.
4. We find the right pillow and carefully remove it.
5. Drain as much old oil as is in the engine.
6. We find and carefully dismantle the oil filter.

1. We drain the coolant, but for this we remove the clamp in the lower radiator pipe.
2. We drain the refrigerant from the cooling system, for this you need to unscrew the plug on the radiator.
3. Carefully remove the radiator, and then the alternator drive belt.
4. You need to find the inlet hose, and then remove it.
5. We find and carry out the dismantling of the head in the cylinder block.
6. We remove the muffler, find and unscrew the oil pan.
7. We find the bolts that secure the pump pulley, you need to loosen them.
8. We find, remove belts from additional equipment.
9. We take the bar that we prepared and insert it between the crankshaft and the surface on the side of the crankcase.
10. Remove the pulley from the crankshaft. Do not rush anywhere, do everything carefully.
11. Unscrew and remove the pulley from the water pump.
12. Remove the oil pump.
13. Installation of the first TDC piston (upper position). Look carefully at the marks, they match on almost any existing variety.
14. We fix the distribution shaft using an adjustable wrench, and then unscrew the gear bolts.
15. We shoot in a certain order:

• the upper level of the damper;
• tensioner;
• damper tensioner.

1. The gas distribution mechanism (timing) has chains that need to be removed.
2. We find the gear using a pre-prepared flat screwdriver, pry it off, and then remove it.
3. We clean the surface on the side of the motor from all dirt and sealant.
4. We recall the marks that had to be put at the beginning of the replacement process, and pay attention to them when installing a new chain.
5. The seals need to be replaced.
6. We apply a new sealant to the place of the old one, that is, to the place of the side surface of the engine.
7. Mounting bolts must be fastened.
8. The side cover must be attached. Wait a bit, the sealant should settle.
9. The pump and gasket must be installed.
10. We collect everything carefully and carefully in reverse order.

Please note the extreme need for labels! Otherwise, a chain failure may occur, and this already leads to critical consequences for the power unit.

Please note that replacing the timing chain on a Nissan Almera N16 requires basic knowledge of your vehicle. But if you don’t have them, then before starting the action, get at least superficial knowledge from photos or videos that are easy to find on the Internet.

Belt replacement

The toothed belt is responsible for ensuring the high-quality operation of the gas distribution mechanism, with the help of which the entire unit (camshaft and crankshaft) is set in motion. That is, this belt controls the intake and exhaust phases, not a single motor can do without it.

If the timing belt Nissan Almera Classic 2013, 2014 or any other year has breakdowns, that is, breaking or cutting teeth, this leads to very dangerous contact between the valves and the pistons, which will cause expensive repairs.

Of course, such a moment is very unpleasant for any owner. So that this problem does not overtake you, the replacement of the Nissan Almera timing belt can be carried out on its own on the advice of manufacturers and specialists, and this is every 70-80 thousand km or every 3-4 years. But if suspicions have crept in about your belt, then it is better to check everything, fix what is needed, and be calm than after paying for expensive repairs.

Many people advise replacing spark plugs along with the belt, as checking the belt will facilitate the turning movements of the crankshaft. Check the toothed surface of your belt for wrinkles, flaking, undercut teeth, or any cracks. And on the reverse side, look carefully for signs of burning, wear, or an exposed cord. Also check the end surfaces, they may have delamination or fraying. Be sure the timing belt must be replaced if these signs (at least one from the entire list) or traces of oil were found.

Conclusion

It is advisable to change the water pump of the cooling system when replacing the timing belt with a Nissan Almera Classic, as it is located in a very inaccessible place. And while working on replacing the chain / belt, access to them will be much easier, which will be a good reason to replace the pump as well. By replacing the chain in Almera with your own hands, you will save some money and spend approximately 4 hours. This process will be easier for you to carry out using a car lifting device or on an equipped overpass.

A detailed technical guide for replacing the timing elements of the Nissan K4M engine.

The first cylinder of Nissan engines is closer to the flywheel/gearbox. Start the timing belt replacement procedure only if the following conditions are met:

The presence of a timing replacement kit: a new timing belt, a new timing belt roller, a new timing belt tensioner, a new crankshaft pulley bolt, a new crankshaft pulley, the presence of new camshaft plugs.

The presence of a kit for replacing the alternator belt with a new belt, a new alternator belt tensioner, a new alternator belt roller (for vehicles with air conditioning).

Availability of special tools: SST KV113 B0130 (Mot.1489) (crankshaft stop) Mot.1496 (camshaft clamp), mandrels for pressing camshaft plugs (Mot 1487, Mot 1488) See Fig.1,2,3

Fig 1. Mot.1489 (crankshaft stop)

Fig 2. Mot.1496 (camshaft clamp)

Rice. 3 Drifts for driving in camshaft plugs (Mot 1487, Mot 1488)

Place the vehicle on a scissor or two post lift. Remove the right wheel. Disconnect the "-" terminal of the battery. See Fig.4

Remove the crankcase protection. Place a jack under the engine crankcase. Be sure to use a rubber spacer. Unload the support by raising the engine. See Fig.5

Move the fuel line to the side and secure. Fig.6

Remove the right engine mount. Pay attention to the different length of the mounting bolts. See Fig. 7, 7a

Remove the top timing case cover. Fig 8.9

Using a suitable wrench, turn the auto-tensioner to loosen the belt and remove the alternator belt.

Remove the crankshaft pulley. Fig.11,12

Remove the lower timing cover.

Screw the crankshaft bolt into place for easy turning of the crankshaft. Rice. 13.14

Unscrew the plug. (TORX E14) fig.15

Screw the special stopper into place of the plug (SST KV113 B0130, Mot.1489)

Remove the camshaft end caps from the camshaft cover. The plugs are located on the flywheel/gearbox side. Fig.16 Plugs are located on the side of the 1st cylinder (flywheel, gearbox).

A. The slots on the ends of the camshafts must be located horizontally and shifted down relative to the parting line of the cylinder head cover. Figure 17

B. The keyway of the crankshaft gear must point upwards. Fig. 18

Screw the special crankshaft stopper (SST KV113 B0130, Mot.1489) into place of the plug. Fig. 19. After installing this stopper, the crankshaft can no longer be turned clockwise.

In this position, the timing belt is replaced.

Rice. 17 Slotted camshafts

Rice. 18 Crankshaft groove

Fig. 19 Crankshaft stop Mot 1489

Attention: The first cylinder is closer to the flywheel/gearbox.

Loosen the timing belt tension.Fig.20

Remove tensioner, pulley and timing belt.

Install the special tool SST: - (Mot.1496) in the slot of the camshafts and fix it with a bolt to the boss on the camshaft head cover.

Install a new timing belt tensioner. The protrusion on the tensioner should fit into the groove on the engine jacket.

Install the tensioner nut but do not tighten it.

Check that the engine crankshaft matches the TDC position of the first cylinder of the compression stroke (the key of the crankshaft gear is directed vertically upwards, the crankshaft does not turn clockwise (stop Mot.1489 is installed)

In this position, put on a new timing belt. Put on the belt "clockwise" so that the belt does not sag between the gears.

The crankshaft must correspond to the TDC position of the first cylinder of the compression stroke.

Install a new roller. Tighten the roller bolt to 50 N-m (5.1 Kg-m)

Tension the belt with the tensioner so that the flag 1 is inside the groove 2. Fig.22

Tighten tensioner nut to 27 N-m (2.8 Kg-m) Fig.23

Attention! After tightening the tensioner, the flag should remain inside the groove.

Check the position of the crankshaft - it should correspond to the TDC of the first cylinder of the compression stroke. Keyway in vertical position, crankshaft does not turn clockwise due to stop Mot. 1489

Remove the special tool SST Mot.1496 from the camshafts and unscrew the crankshaft stop SST Mot.1489.

Carefully turn the crankshaft clockwise with a wrench (it is recommended to unscrew/loosen the spark plugs for easier turning). The crankshaft and camshafts should turn effortlessly. If you feel a force when turning the crankshaft, it means that you have installed the timing belt incorrectly.

Turn the crankshaft clockwise with a key (see photo) to the TDC position of the compression stroke of the first cylinder. For this, the following conditions must be met:

A. The slots on the ends of the camshafts must be located horizontally and shifted down.

B. The keyway of the crankshaft gear must point upwards.

If these conditions are met, you have installed the timing belt correctly.

Install new camshaft plugs using special drifts (Mot 1487, Mot 1488)

Install the lower timing cover

Bolt tightening torque 12 N-m. (1.2kg-m)

Install the crankshaft pulley. To tighten the crankshaft bolt, set the TDC position of the first compression stroke cylinder. To tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt, we recommend using a carbide rod or screwdriver instead of the crankshaft stop (SST Mot.1489). (For vehicles with a manual transmission, shift into gear and apply the brake).

Install a new crankshaft pulley bolt.

Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to 40.0 N m (4.1 Kg-m,)

Rotate the crankshaft bolt 145 degrees.

Unscrew the crankshaft stop SST Mot.1489.

Install/reinstall spark plugs. Torque to 28 N.m (2.9 Kg-m). Install and connect the ignition coils.

Install the timing case top cover.

Tightening torque for bolts and nuts 46 N m (4.7 Kg-m,)

Install a new alternator belt auto-tensioner.

A. For vehicles with air conditioning:

Tightening torque of the auto-tensioner mounting bolts 21 N m (4.7 Kg-m,)

Install new roller, tightening torque 21 N m (4.7 Kg-m,)

B. For vehicles without air conditioning:

Fastening the auto-tensioner in case without air conditioning:

Tightening torque of the auto-tensioner bolt 40 N m (4.1 Kg-m,)

Install the new alternator belt by turning the auto-tensioner with a suitable wrench. See Fig.24

Reinstall the engine mount, if necessary, using a jack to lift the engine.

Reinstall the fuel line, check the connection.

Connect the "-" terminal of the battery. Check if the connection is secure.

Reinstall the crankcase protection.

Install the right wheel. Tightening torque for wheel nuts 105 N-m (11Kg-m).

Start the engine. Take a test drive.

In case of removing the camshaft pulleys (this is not required when replacing the timing belt), use SST Mot.1490-01. Before unscrewing the nuts securing the camshaft pulleys and when tightening the nuts securing the camshaft pulleys, install SST Mot.1490-01. Fasten tool Mot.1490-01 using the bolt and nut of the upper timing case. See Fig.25.

When assembling on the camshafts on the flywheel side, SST (Mot.1496) must be installed in the slot of the camshafts and fixed with a bolt to the boss on the camshaft cover. See Fig.21, 17.

The Renault badges on the spokes of the camshaft pulleys must be at the top.

The tightening torque of the nuts for fastening the camshafts is 8 N-m (0.8 Kg-m). The nuts are disposable.

Watch an interesting video on this topic

15 Sep 2016

Hello! There are risky lucky ones who have not changed the timing belt according to the regulations for 60 thousand km? The mileage is approaching this mark ... it's not about the money (the company pays for everything) ... there is no time.

Yes, there is this blogger who has already dashed off 82,000 km and has not changed the belt yet, he is going to change it soon.

15 Sep 2016

Mileage 76000. I only changed the right lever at 60 .. Oil filter after 10 thousand. candles 2 times. oil in a box at 60-65. I don’t remember (before another trip to the south) Stock summer tires. light bulbs - size 50. Mechanic's box. Now I changed the tires for winter (the stock is already p ... c) The brake pads are worn out by 45-50%. I'm going to change the timing to 90. The operation of the machine is gentle. 60-70% highway, respectively, the rest of the city.

Yes, in a hurry. I stopped by the other day to a dealer in Smolensk. My car 2013 Oct. Estimated at 370 rubles for the trade. the same in terms of configuration - 667 rubles new. After all the discounts, at the exit ___ I give mine. I pay extra 200 rubles and leave on a new one. Think!!???

22 Sep 2016

22 Sep 2016

I agree. On a largus with such an engine, they generally change it after 120 thousand.

Yes, but on my 10-ke 8 valves for 80 thousand, the belt broke into the trash a few years ago.

At 10-ke, the belt is already much longer than on Almeria, and therefore the resource is less!

26 Sep 2016

Yes, but on my 10-ke 8 valves for 80 thousand, the belt broke into the trash a few years ago. They took it in tow, changed it myself, it's 8kl, and sold it within a month. The work, in general, is insignificant, it cost a penny, but this is a VAZ, and at 12kl, you don’t want to experience such risks. Now 23 thousand, but after 60 thousand I will immediately begin to prepare for a replacement. But that's just my personal opinion.

More about timing. A friend has Chinese Cherry. This summer it's time to replace the timing belt. He, a fool (this is not unfounded - I told him who he directly told later), went to change the belt not even to the dealer, or to some official service, but to some motorcade, where there is some kind of workshop. In short, after 200 meters, the belt broke and did business for 16 thousand rubles. And they sent him away. Then, after a showdown with the involvement of "specialists" not at all in the automotive business, it seems that they agreed on expenses of 50 to 50 and their repair. Now I've seen it go. So be careful with this timing belt.

Do not compare the top 10 and the whiter the Chinese. Our engines have belts of excellent quality. It's been proven time and time again. Those who changed to 60 belts were like new.

I agree. On a largus with such an engine, they generally change it after 120 thousand.

Yes, but on my 10-ke 8 valves for 80 thousand, the belt broke into the trash a few years ago.

At 10-ke, the belt is already much longer than on Almeria, and therefore the resource is less!
There are plenty of them both on the Almeria and on the Largus, which have already reached 90-100 without problems, since the native belt is of the highest quality and has not been torn by anyone, but those who changed at 60 thousand and after that there was already enough break, especially those who changed in dubious offices!
In general, the norms for replacing belts all my life were 100-120 for gasoline, 70-80 thousand for diesel. These are the general guidelines for belt replacement!
True, there is one BUT! Nobody canceled engine hours, for example, a resident of a metropolis who spends a lot of time in traffic jams and where the average speed barely reaches 20-30 km / h, his mileage is not high, but the motor has already wound up quite a lot and it’s better not to tighten the belt and oil change!
And vice versa, those who wind up a little in traffic jams and wind more along the highway, they have a large mileage and the motor has clocked up a little!
So everyone must decide when to replace the belt, personally, I plan to 90-100 thousand.

Yes, I completely agree. I drive 80% on the highway.

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