On VAZ-2110 cars, the starter can be either old or new. The latter is distinguished by the presence of a gearbox, which is made on the basis of a sun gear. The whole device consists of several parts - an electric motor, a gearbox, and a bendix. It also includes front and rear covers, inside of which there are bronze bushings. Such starters are increasingly used in cars, as they have the advantages of small size and high speed when compared with their predecessors.

What does the starter consist of?

The main elements that make up the VAZ-2110 starter, the price of which is 2300-2500 rubles, were discussed above. But it also contains a number of parts that affect the performance of the device. The stator winding, located on the stationary part of the device, is necessary to generate an electromagnetic field with the help of which movement is created. But it cannot be created without a counteracting field that forms around the rotor winding.

Consequently, the engine rotor also has a winding, which is powered from the on-board network through a brush assembly. This is the most vulnerable unit, since the brushes are made of graphite. Although it is durable, you should not forget that it constantly rubs against the slats, between which there is a small gap. This results in significant wear, and its result is loss of contact between the starter power input and the rotor lamellas. In the back cover there is a bronze bushing, which is used to center the rotor and power it from the battery negative.

Solenoid relay

If the VAZ-2110 starter does not turn, then you need to look for the reason for this behavior. And there may be several of them, among the first is a breakdown of the traction relay. It is installed directly on the starter housing and has two functions - it supplies power from the battery positive to the windings, and also moves the bendix along the rotor axis, connecting its teeth to the flywheel crown. Consequently, the crankshaft rotates from the electric motor.

A lot of troubles can happen with the solenoid relay. For example, often its winding simply burns out. Consequently, the traction relay armature does not move and the starter does not turn on. The second, no less common breakdown is contamination of power contacts. When switching high current, the copper plates are destroyed, they become covered with soot, causing contact to be lost. Therefore, the retractor will click, but the starter will not turn over.

Connection diagram

The starter is connected to the on-board network of the VAZ-2110 car according to the standard scheme. It is working and tested, does not require any intervention. The ignition switch has two contacts that close when the key is turned to the extreme position. Now there is no need to talk about the fact that power is supplied to the ECU, fuel pump and other elements of the car. We are talking exclusively about the starter, so only its operation needs to be considered.

So, the contacts closed when the key was turned to the extreme position, and power was supplied to the electromagnetic relay. It is installed under the dashboard. Its switching terminals are supplied with the positive terminal from the battery through a fuse. The voltage is removed from it and supplied to the winding of the traction relay of the VAZ-2110 starter. The result of this is that the armature retracts, moves the bendix and closes the power contacts. The latter are connected as follows: one directly to the battery positive, and the second to the starter power wire.

Replacing the starter on the "ten"

On fuel-injected cars this procedure will be slightly problematic. The reason for this is the air filter, which is located in the engine compartment above the clutch housing. Changing the VAZ-2110 starter solenoid relay will also be problematic. There is not enough space, and if you remove the filter, it is not a fact that you will be able to put it back in place. The rubber bands on which it is attached are so inconvenient that when installing them into the holes on the brackets, you can not only cut them, but also get injured.

In general, after removing the air filter, there will be little work left to do for dismantling. First, disconnect the battery. This action is mandatory, you can’t do without it. After this, unscrew the nut on the traction relay and pull the wire out of the connector. That's all, now unscrew two or three nuts from the studs (depending on what model of starter). All that remains is to slightly pull the body towards the left wheel and lift it so that it comes up. But it will be quite easy to pull it out through the top.

How to repair a starter

To carry out repairs, you will need to disassemble the device completely, literally piece by piece. At the same time, the traction relay, which drives the starter on the VAZ-2110, is generally checked and serviced separately. New models are not subject to repair; they are enclosed in a solid body. But if you look at its cost, it turns out that repairs will cost a small amount. When you disassemble the starter, the first thing you will need to do is install new brushes. If the old ones are less than 12 mm long, then they have already become unusable.

Cleaning the slats is also impossible without it. First, clean the gaps between adjacent contacts from dirt, then arm yourself with polishing paste and rub the metal surface. Upon completion of this procedure, rinse with solvent. You should not use sandpaper, as it will make the surface of the lamellas abrasive, resulting in rapid wear of the starter brushes. And at the last stage you replace both bushings. One is located in the rear cover, and the second is in the clutch housing. When making repairs, replace both, otherwise the rotor alignment will be disrupted. And there will be no contact between the battery negative and the rotor. As a result, you will get that the VAZ-2110 starter simply does not turn.

Conclusion

It is worth noting, concluding the discussion of the “ten” starter, that its maintenance is very simple, no skills are required for this. And restoring the starter on a VAZ-2110 car takes literally half an hour. True, there are cases when the body and covers are destroyed. Because of this, alignment is lost and wear of all elements increases. In this case, either buying a new starter or finding and installing damaged parts will help.

Probably every driver of the domestic “ten” has encountered such a problem when he urgently needs to go somewhere, but the car does not want to start. Sometimes the reason is hidden in a low battery charge. But if you are convinced that this part is fully charged, look carefully at the VAZ-2110 starter. It is he who performs the function. But if the problem is hidden in it, do not despair, because you can eliminate this problem very quickly, and with your own hands.

In this article we will tell you how the VAZ 2110 starter works and how it can be replaced.

Part design

This spare part is the main part in the engine starting system. Without a starter, it is impossible to start any modern car, because it spins up to a certain frequency, thereby facilitating the quick start of the engine. Also, some models of spare parts provide for the placement of a special starting device (as a rule, only those starters that cannot turn on independently are equipped with it).

How to choose a VAZ-2110 starter?

When choosing, you should purchase only the spare part that is designed specifically for your car, otherwise such a part will not work. And even for domestic VAZs there are their own types of starters for a specific model. When choosing, always take into account the fact that the starter on a VAZ-2110 may not always fit the “six” or “nine”.

Replacement

So, after the purchase, we are faced with the task of installing a new part. But before you do this, you need to remove the broken spare part for the VAZ-2110. Starter - its installation first begins with disconnecting the power supply by removing the negative terminal. Next you need to disassemble (if there is one) and find the place where the spare part is attached. On VAZs of the tenth family, the starter is located on the right side of the injector. It is very easy to recognize - the design looks like a large hairpin with a nut.

Then you need to raise the vehicle to some height. To do this, you can use a regular jack, but it is best to drive onto an overpass or into a viewing hole. There are many ways - the main thing is that you can get under the car and unscrew a few bolts there. We will tell you which ones below.

So, let's move directly to the nuts. The VAZ-2110 starter is mounted on 3 bolts: the first one performs the function of fastening the positive wire; the second holds the main negative wire; the third is at the bottom of the starter and holds all the other negative wires. So, all 3 nuts need to be unscrewed. Then we go to the hood and unscrew the upper starter bolt. That's it, at this stage the dismantling of the part is completed. Now you can safely begin installing the new spare part. It is done according to the same principle.

Life time

And finally - about the service life of the newly installed part. VAZ starters often last 5-6 (and sometimes even 7) years. But this does not mean that during this period you do not need to monitor its condition, because otherwise your iron friend will not start.

A car starter is a small 4-band electric motor that provides primary rotation of the crankshaft. This is necessary in order to ensure the necessary rotation speed to start the internal combustion engine. As a rule, to start a medium-sized gasoline engine, it is necessary to have a starter that has an average of 3 kW of energy. The starter is a DC motor and supplies energy from the battery. Taking voltage from the battery, the electric motor increases its power with the help of 4 brushes, which are an integral part of any car starter.

Types of starters

Among the large number of similar electromagnetic motors, there are only 2 main types: starters with and without gearboxes.

1. With gearbox

   Many experts advise using a starter with a gearbox. This is due to the fact that such a device has a reduced current requirement for efficient operation. Such devices will ensure torsion of the crankshaft even when the battery charge is low. Also, one of the most important advantages of such a device is the presence of permanent magnets, which reduce problems with the stator winding to a minimum. On the other hand, if such a device is used for a long time, there is a possibility of the rotating gear breaking. But this, as a rule, leads to a factory defect or simply poor quality production.

2. Without gearbox

   Starters that do not have a gearbox have a direct direct effect on gear rotation. In this situation, car owners who have gearless starters benefit from the fact that such devices have a simpler design and are easy to repair (read about it yourself). It is also worth noting that after current is supplied to the electromagnetic switch, instantaneous engagement of the gear with the flywheel occurs. This allows for very fast ignition. It is worth noting that such starters have high endurance, and the likelihood of breakdown due to exposure to electricity is minimized. But devices without a gearbox are likely to perform poorly at low temperatures.

Principles of operation of a starter with a gearbox

When current is supplied from the car's battery, driven by closing the ignition, to the gear starter, the process of supplying current to the starter armature through the gearbox occurs, which increases the power of the passing voltage several times. Next, torque is transmitted from the armature to the gear. All this also happens with the help of a gearbox, which is equipped with constantly working magnets, and special brushes that are capable of generating greater resistance than the brushes of a conventional starter ensure its constant and efficient operation.

Starter diagram VAZ 2106, 21061 (35.3708) (Zhiguli):

1 – drive side cover;	14 – relay cover;
2 – retaining ring;	15 – contact bolts;
3 – restrictive ring;	16 – collector;
4 – drive gear;	17 – brush;
5 – overrunning clutch;	18 – armature shaft bushing;
6 – drive ring;	19 – cover from the collector side;
7 – rubber plug;	20 – casing;
8 – drive lever;	21 – shunt coil of the stator winding;
9 – relay anchor;	22 – body;
10 – holding winding of the traction relay;	23 – stator pole fastening screw;
11 – pull-in winding of the traction relay;	24 – anchor;
12 – relay coupling bolt;	25 – armature winding;
13 – contact plate;	26 – intermediate ring.

1 – drive shaft;	20 – contact bolts;
2 – front cover bushing;	21 – output of “positive” brushes;
3 – restrictive ring;	22 – bracket;
4 – gear with the inner ring of the overrunning clutch;	23 – brush holder;
5 – overrunning clutch roller;	24 – “positive” brush;
6 – drive shaft support with liner;	25 – armature shaft;
7 – planetary gear axis;	26 – tie rod;
8 – gasket;	27 – back cover with bushing;
9 – lever bracket;	28 – collector;
10 – drive lever;	29 – body;
11 – front cover;	30 – permanent magnet;
12 – relay anchor;	31 – armature core;
13 – holding winding;	32 – armature shaft support with liner;
14 – retractor winding;	33 – planetary gear;
15 – traction relay;	34 – central (drive) gear;
16 – traction relay rod;	35 – carrier;
17 – traction relay core;	36 – gear with internal teeth;
18 – contact plate;	37 – layering ring;
19 – traction relay cover;	38 – hub with the outer ring of the overrunning clutch.

In the presented figure you can see in more detail the principle of operation of the starter. When the starter is brought into an active state, the voltage provided by the battery, which in turn is activated by turning on the ignition, goes directly to 2 relay windings, which provides starter traction (retractor 14 (see Fig. VAZ 2110 starter diagram “5702.3708” ) and holding 13). Due to the magnetic field created by the armature windings, the relay (12) is retracted and, with the power of the lever (10), activates the gear (4), which instantly interacts with the engine flywheel. After the contact bolts (20) of the plate (18) are completely closed, the retractor winding stops operating. At this time, the relay armature is in the retracted position with the help of only one holding winding. When the ignition key is turned to the 2nd position, the winding that holds the relay armature is de-energized. Thus, the anchor returns to its original position using a special spring. Thus, using the lever (10), the gear (4) is pulled out, which engages with the engine flywheel.

The VAZ 2110 starter can be of two types - it depends on whether the carburetor or injection engine is in the top ten. Later cars were equipped with high-speed ones - they are small in size, but have higher performance. They have a higher rotor speed due to the fact that a special gearbox design based on a sun gear is used.

In the article we will try to consider the main issues: design, principle of operation, switching circuit, procedure for replacing the starter on a VAZ 2110.

Design and connection diagram

Consequently, four brushes approach the rotor - two are connected to ground, and two to the second terminals of the windings. It is this switching circuit that allows you to achieve maximum power from the electric motor. If the VAZ 2110 starter does not turn, you will need to check the switching circuit first. Namely, the solenoid relay and the power wire for its winding. For clarity, take a look at the operation of the mechanism in different modes:

The solenoid relay is the most vulnerable part of the entire starting mechanism. The fact is that it is it that switches large currents. Just imagine that the minimum current value fluctuates in the range of 60..80 Amperes! And if the VAZ 2110 starter is faulty and its rotor jams, then the current consumption of the windings can increase to several hundred Amperes! The consequence is burning of the contacts and the inability to conduct electric current. The windings of the VAZ 2110 solenoid relay often burn out; in this case, you can’t even hear clicks when you turn the ignition key.

Now let's take a little look at how this whole system works:

1. Turn on the ignition and power is supplied to the ECU.
2. When the key is turned to the extreme position, power is supplied to the coil of the solenoid relay.
3. The holding coil allows the relay armature to be retracted. In this case, the contacts are closed and the Bendix gear of the VAZ 2110 starter is connected to the flywheel ring.
4. Current flows through the contacts and the stator winding is energized.
5. If there is no damage to the stator windings, power is supplied to the rotor windings.
6. A magnetic field is created around all the windings, and on the rotor and stator they are multidirectional, therefore, they will constantly try to repel each other.
7. Thanks to the magnetic field, the rotor rotates.

If the VAZ 2110 starter traction relay is faulty, the entire unit will not be powered. The easiest way to check the serviceability is to close both power terminals of the solenoid relay with a screwdriver.

How to replace and repair

To carry out repairs, you don’t need any skills; it’s enough to know how to handle wrenches (and you only need two of them). The first step is to completely de-energize the car. To do this, remove the terminals from the battery and move it to the side - this way you will free up a little space, which is not much on the injection tens. But it is more convenient to work from below, since you do not need to dismantle the air filter. If the car is old, then the rubber clips can be damaged, and you will be too lazy to buy new ones (this is usually what happens).

But there may be a “problem” below in the form of protection. Decide for yourself which is the lesser evil.

First of all, pull out the power wire of the traction relay winding, then unscrew the power wire from it. Using the key “13”, unscrew three or two (depending on the modification of the car) nuts securing the VAZ 2110 starter to the clutch block. Take out the entire assembly and inspect it carefully. Of course, an external inspection may show few defects, except perhaps the destruction of the holes in the cover and the bendix. It is necessary to disassemble the entire unit in order to fully diagnose and repair it. Of course, the best option is to buy a new starter every 4-5 years and install it, and throw out the old one or sell it to scrap metal buyers.

1. But if you decide to carry out repairs, you need to consider:
2. Cleaning the lamellas is mandatory, because the dirt between them is a mixture of graphite and copper, which is a conductor. Therefore, the rotor can be completely squirrel-cage. If I can put it that way.
3. Replacing brushes no matter what condition the old ones are in.
4. Installation of new bushings. One is located in the rear cover of the VAZ 2110 starter, and the second is in the engine block.

If necessary, a new bendix is ​​installed.