Work performed while steering. Steering parts repair. Purpose and steering devices

Send your good work in the knowledge base is simple. Use the form below

Students, graduate students, young scientists who use the knowledge base in their studies and work will be very grateful to you.

Hosted at http://www.allbest.ru/

Education Committee of the Government of St. Petersburg

Malookhtinsky Professional Lyceum

Profession: Auto mechanic

Graduation written work

Topic: "Maintenance and repair of the steering of the car VAZ-2104"

student of group No. 35 Tikhonov V.Yu

Checked by: Mandzyuk O.N.

Introduction

Organization of the workplace of a car mechanic.

Labor protection and fire prevention measures

Purpose and steering device

Steering Diagnostics

Steering Maintenance

Steering repair and adjustment

Applied fixtures and equipment

measuring tool

List of used literature

Introduction

There are many different requirements for a modern passenger car:

1. Passenger car to the requirements of international and Russian standards, ensuring high safety during acceleration, braking, maneuvers and in emergency situations. In addition, a modern truck must have a high passive, post-accident and environmental safety. Based on the foregoing, it must be equipped with an ABS brake system, high-quality tires, shock absorbers and a control system.

2. A passenger car must meet modern international environmental requirements, since the problem of environmental pollution is currently in the first place.

3. High demands are placed on a passenger car in terms of economy. The consumption of fuel, lubricants and other consumables should be minimal, while ensuring high traction and speed properties. The cost of maintenance and spare parts is also of great importance.

4. Such performance indicators as cross-country ability, maneuverability, controllability, ride smoothness must correspond to the purpose of the vehicle.

5. The car must meet the requirements of modern ergonomics. It should be not only reliable and comfortable, but also convenient. Its conveniences lie in the smoothness of the ride, ease of control, which in turn depends on the body structure, the location of the controls. Also, not in the last place in the convenience of the car are its options, namely, climate control, which allows you to create the most favorable temperature and humidity for the driver, a small refrigerator compartment, power steering, on-board computer, LCD TV, electric sunroof, the presence of a telephone, a first-class audio system with a subwoofer and other options that create additional comfort for the user. For maximum driver comfort, additional sound insulation should be provided.

6. The car must meet the requirements of internal and external informativeness. The design of the instrument panel, devices that provide visibility, handles, control pedals must provide the driver with the information necessary to drive the car in a timely manner. External devices of the car must be visible and provide other road users with all the information about the intention to change the speed or direction of movement.

The requirements for modern passenger cars lead to a more complex design and require greater knowledge, skills and abilities from auto mechanics. The main requirement for a modern auto mechanic is to be able to think. Unfortunately, according to most indicators, VAZ cars do not meet the requirements for a modern passenger car. But even when servicing such cars, a lot of knowledge is needed and they require a creative attitude to their work, conscientiousness and responsibility from the auto mechanic.

Requirements for the professional training of an auto mechanic

Auto mechanic - must know: safety regulations; device principles of operation of repaired equipment, power plants, units and machines; properties of processed materials, anti-corrosion lubricants and oils; ways to restore worn parts; specifications for testing, adjustment and. acceptance of components, mechanisms and equipment after repair; tolerances, fits and accuracy classes; device and methods of using special devices and instrumentation. Knowledge of mathematics and physics is required. Ability to perform disassembly, repair and assembly of components and mechanisms.

If for an auto mechanic repairing a domestic car, ingenuity, ingenuity, resourcefulness, cunning, and sometimes even courage in making decisions are important, then a repairman of foreign cars is expected to have knowledge and strict adherence to high-tech processes, the global rules for their implementation. Therefore, among the requirements for candidates for this vacancy in a dealer company of a foreign automaker, you can find the following: lack of experience in car services for repairing cars manufactured in our country. Many people think that a person who is used to repairing domestic cars according to domestic standards with Russian, or rather? Soviet? approach to the performance of their duties, and even more so without a higher education, will not be able to switch to a qualitatively different level of repair. Employers are tightening the requirements for the education of car mechanics, car painters, tinsmiths and others, also because the degree of preparedness of the directors of car services has increased. Now no one is surprised when candidates of technical sciences become managers of auto technical centers or their deputies. Accordingly, they set a high standard for the initial training of all employees of their enterprises, starting with auto mechanics.

Organizaworkplace of a car mechanic

Maintenance and repair work is carried out at work stations. According to their purpose, posts can be universal and specialized.

At the universal posts, all types of technological operations related to the maintenance and repair of the car are carried out. At specialized work posts, work is carried out related to a certain type of repair operations. For example, a specialized post for the repair of an automobile engine. At this post, only work related to the repair of the engine is carried out.

To increase labor productivity and improve the quality of work performed at work stations, all of them are equipped with a wide variety of garage equipment. All equipment is selected based on the purpose of this work post and is conventionally divided into 3 large groups:

1. Technological equipment.

2. Technological equipment.

3. Organizational tooling.

Technological equipment includes various stands and fixtures for maintenance and repair, equipped with measuring and diagnostic instruments, various grips and clamps.

Technological equipment includes all kinds of tools and fixtures, sets of keys, socket heads, pullers, torque arms, etc. By type of work, technological work is divided into cleaning and washing, lifting and transport, lubrication and filling, disassembly and assembly, control diagnostics and specialized.

Organizational equipment includes various auxiliary equipment that increases convenience in work. Organizational equipment includes various types of workbenches, tool carts, stands for equipment, racks and cabinets for storing tool equipment, etc.

Work on the maintenance and repair of the steering of a car is most often carried out at modern service stations at universal work stations. Below is an approximate list of various equipment installed at such work stations.

Technological equipment.

Labor protection and fire prevention measures

Safe working conditions and fire prevention measures

Occupational Safety and Health:

Occupational safety is understood as a system of legislative acts and corresponding measures aimed at maintaining the health and working capacity of workers.

The system of organizational and technical measures and means to prevent industrial injuries is called safety engineering.

The main provisions on labor protection are set out in the Labor Code of the Russian Federation.

In workshops and (in enterprises) at production sites, the heads of workshops and foremen are responsible for labor safety.

1) The operations of removing and installing springs are of increased danger, since they have accumulated significant energy. These operations must be carried out on stands or with the help of devices that ensure safe operation.

2) Ethylene glycol antifreeze mixtures - toxic. If they come into contact with the skin, wipe the area dry and wash with soap and water.

3) Do not stay under the vehicle when it is jacked up.

5) To avoid minor injuries to the hands, you need to work with gloves.

6) When under the car, the mechanics must be dressed - a hat and glasses.

7) When servicing the car, you should be guided by the “Safety Rules”.

On the territory of the enterprise, it is necessary to have sanitary facilities - dressing rooms, showers, washrooms.

Natural and artificial lighting of workplaces must be sufficient for the safe performance of work.

BASIC FIRE SAFETY REQUIREMENTS

1. The safety of people must be ensured by: planning and design solutions for evacuation routes in accordance with current building codes and regulations, constant maintenance of evacuation routes in proper condition, ensuring the possibility of safe evacuation of people in the event of a fire or other emergency (Appendix 4).

2. All production, administrative, auxiliary, warehouse, repair premises, as well as parking lots and storage sites for motor vehicles must be provided with primary fire extinguishing equipment (fire extinguishers, fire shields, fire extinguishing installations, etc.), in accordance with the standards (Appendix 5).

3. All premises of the enterprise must be equipped with fire safety signs in accordance with the requirements of GOST 12.4.026-76 "Signal colors and safety signs" and evacuation signs.

4. Working clothes must be washed (dry-cleaned) and repaired in a timely manner in accordance with the established schedule. Work in oiled overalls is prohibited.

5. Tank trucks intended for the transportation of flammable liquids and combustible liquids must be stored in separate one-story buildings or in open areas specially designated for this purpose in accordance with the requirements of regulatory documentation.

6. When loading or unloading flammable goods, the car engine must be turned off.

Production sites must be equipped with the following fire equipment

Carbon dioxide fire extinguisher OU-1

Fire cabinets Fire shields

Purpose and steering devices

Steering - a set of mechanisms that serve to turn the steered wheels, ensures the movement of the car in a given direction.

The main requirements for steering controls are related to ensuring road safety. These requirements should include:

1. The correctness of the kinematics of the turn, which should ensure the turn of the steered wheels at different angles, due to which the movement of the car on the turn should occur without side slip and slip.

2. Ease of management.

3. Required gear ratio.

4. High rigidity of parts.

5. Consistency of the kinematics of the steering gear and the suspension guide.

6. The optimal value of the stabilizing moment.

7. Minimum gaps in the joints of parts.

The steering consists of the following mechanisms:

1. Steering gear.

2. Steering gear.

3. Power steering (not on all vehicles).

Steering mechanisms are of the following types:

1. Worm - which are divided into worm-roller and worm-sector

2. Screw - which are divided into screw-lever and screw-rack

3. Gear - which are divided into gear and rack

On the rear drive, screw-roller steering mechanisms are most often used, which are small in size, reliable in operation and easy to maintain. Their efficiency is 0.85 when transferring forces from the steering wheel to the steered wheels and 0.07 - from the steered wheels to the steering wheel. Therefore, the efforts of the driver spent on overcoming friction in the steering mechanism are small.

The steering drive is a system of rods and levers that connects the steered wheels of the car with the steering mechanism. The steering gear serves to transmit power from the steering mechanism to the steered wheels and to ensure that the wheels turn correctly. Various types of steering gears are used on cars:

1. According to the type of steering linkage, there are - with a rifled steering linkage and a split steering linkage.

2. According to the location of the steering linkage, there are - with a front steering linkage and with a rear steering linkage.

Power steering is not used on VAZ rear-wheel drive vehicles.

On the VAZ-2106 car, safety steering with an intermediate cardan shaft is used.

In steering, a distinction is made between a steering mechanism and a steering gear. Through the steering mechanism, the force is transferred from the driver to the steering gear, and the steering gear transmits the force to the steered wheels.

The steering mechanism consists of a worm gear, a steering wheel 40, a composite steering shaft and parts for its fastening. The worm gearbox (gear ratio 16.4) is located in an aluminum crankcase 34, which is attached to the left side member of the body with three bolts with self-locking nuts. The two crankcase bolt holes are oval shaped to ensure proper steering gear installation. With this installation, the angle between the worm shaft 58 and the horizontal must not exceed 32°, and the gap between the shaft 58 and the brake pedal must be at least 5 mm.

A worm 56 is installed in the crankcase 34 on two angular contact bearings 57. The bearings do not have inner rings. Their role is played by treadmills made at the ends of the worm. The clearance in the worm bearings is regulated by gaskets 47 installed under the bottom cover. At the outlet of the crankcase, the worm shaft is sealed with an oil seal 59. On the splined part of the worm shaft, an annular groove is made for the coupling bolt of the universal joint yoke. In engagement with the worm is a double-ridged roller 50, which rotates on the axis 48 on a double-row ball bearing 49. The ends of the axis, after being pressed into the shaft hole 62, are riveted using electrical heating, i.e. this connection is one-piece.

Steering. 1. Side rod steering; 2. Bipod; 3. Support washer of a spring of an insert of a spherical finger; 4. Ball pin spring; 5. Ball pin; 6. Ball pin insert; 7. Protective cover of the ball pin; 8. Medium thrust steering gear; 9. Pendulum lever; 10. Side link adjusting clutch; 11. Lower ball joint of the front suspension; 12. Lower arm front suspension; 13. Right knuckle; 14. The upper arm of the front suspension; 15. The lever of the right rotary fist; 16. Coupling collars of the adjusting coupling; 17. Pendulum arm bracket; 18. Right side member of the body floor; 19. Bushing axis pendulum lever; 20. O-ring sleeve; 21. The axis of the pendulum lever; 22. Upper shaft needle bearing; 23. Pipe bracket for mounting the steering shaft; 24. Upper steering shaft; 25. Wire tip; 26. Signal switch holder; 27. Bottom slip ring; 28. Wheel hub; 29. Lower slip ring holder; 30. Wire from the lower slip ring; 31. Signal switch spring; 32. Horn switch; 33. Oil filler plug; 34. Steering gear housing; 35. Marks for installing the roller (bipod) in the middle position; 36. Intermediate steering shaft; 37. Fixing plate front bracket; 38. Facing casing of the steering shaft; 39. Lever switch wiper and washer; 40. Steering wheel; 41. The lever of the switch of indexes of turn; 42. Headlight switch lever; 43. Bracket for fastening the steering shaft; 44. Steering shaft seal; 45. Left side member of the butt of the body; 46. Lower cover of the crankcase of the steering mechanism; 47. Shims; 48. The axis of the roller shaft bipod; 49. Roller ball bearing; 50. Roller; 51. Top cover of the crankcase of the steering mechanism; 52. Adjustment screw plate; 53. Lock washer; 54. Locknut; 55. Adjusting screw; 56. Worm; 57. Worm bearings; 58. Worm shaft; 59. Worm shaft seal; 60. Worm shaft bushing; 61. Bipod shaft seal; 62. Bipod shaft;

The bipod shaft with its cylindrical polished part is installed in two bronze bushings 60 and sealed with an oil seal 61 at the outlet of the crankcase. Bipod 2 is mounted on the conical splines of the lower shaft of the bipod in one specific position, when the double spline on the shaft is aligned with the double cavity in the bipod hole.

The gearing of the worm pair is made with a shift of the axes of the roller and the worm by 5.5 mm, which allows you to adjust the backlash-free engagement of the roller with the worm as they wear out. This is achieved by axial displacement of the bipod shaft using the adjusting screw 55. The head of the screw enters the T-shaped cutout of the bipod shaft together with the plate 52, which ensures the desired fit of the screw head. The adjusting screw 55 is screwed into the top cover 51, secured against turning with a washer and tightened with a lock nut. When the adjusting screw is screwed into the cover, the bipod shaft is lowered, and the gap in the engagement of the roller with the worm is selected.

To determine the accuracy of adjusting the clearance in the bearings of the worm and in the engagement of the roller with the worm, a dynamometer is used, which measures the moment of resistance (friction) to turning. In this case, the moment of friction of the worm shaft is first measured without installing the bipod shaft. It should be within 20-50 N-cm (2-5 kgf cm). By selecting the thickness of the shims 47, the desired clearance (friction moment) in the worm bearings is set. Then, after installing the bipod shaft and adjusting the gap in engagement, the friction moment of the worm is checked, which should be equal to 90-120 N-cm (9-12 kgf cm) when the worm shaft is rotated 30 ° both to the left and to the right from the middle position and decreases smoothly up to 70 N-cm (7 kgf-cm) when turning from an angle of 30 ° to the stop.

At the upper end of the crankcase 34 of the steering mechanism and on the shaft 58 of the worm, marks (risks) 35 are made, when combined, the roller 50 is set to the middle position, and the steered wheels ensure the rectilinear movement of the vehicle. In this position, the steering wheel spoke must be horizontal. This indicates the correct connection of the worm shaft with the intermediate shaft.

The parts of the worm gear are lubricated with TAD-17i oil, which is poured through the hole closed with plug 33, filling capacity 0.215 l.

The steering wheel is made of plastic reinforced with a steel frame. In the hub 28 of the steering wheel splines with a double cavity are cut, and on the upper shaft 24 there are double splines, which ensures that the wheel is connected to the shaft in only one position. The steering wheel is attached to the shaft 24 with a nut, which, after tightening, is pierced at one point. From below, a plastic holder 29 of the lower slip ring 27 is attached to the hub 28, along which the switch contact slides. This contact is connected by wires to the relay winding of the horn switch.

The holder 26 of the signal switch is attached to the steering wheel hub with screws. It is isolated from the "mass". The lower contact ring 27 is connected to the wires 30, the tips 25 of which are mounted in the horn switch 32. Springs 31 are installed between the switch 32 and the spoke. When the switch 32 is pressed, the lugs 25 of the wires close the lower contact ring to ground, that is, the winding of the horn relay. When the switch is released under the action of springs 31, the contacts open.

For the safety of the driver, the steering shaft is made integral. It consists of upper 24 and intermediate 36 shafts with cardan joints. The upper shaft rotates on two needle bearings 22 with rubber bushings. The bearings are rolled in the pipe 23 of the bracket 43. Closer to the lower support on the shaft 24, a ring with a groove of the anti-theft device is welded.

The intermediate shaft at the ends has two non-separable cardan joints on needle bearings. The forks of the hinges are mounted on the shaft 58 of the worm and the upper shaft 24 and are fixed with tie bolts.

Bracket 43 is attached to the body panel bracket with four bolts, with the heads of the two lower bolts screwed into the welded nuts of the panel bracket and twisted at the moment of maximum tightening. Under the lower bolts, fixing plates 37 are installed, the rigidity of which is designed for a certain load. The upper bolts are welded and the bracket 43 is attached to them with nuts with curly and spring washers.

When the car collides with an obstacle, the load on the bolts of the bracket 43 increases and under its influence the ends of the plates 37 are deformed. In this case, the bracket 43 slips through the front mounting bolts, turning relative to the upper mounting bolts, as a result of which the steering wheel moves away from the driver's chest area, which reduces the likelihood of serious injury.

The steering shaft is closed by a facing casing 38, consisting of the upper and lower parts, interconnected by screws.

The steering drive includes: bipod 2, middle 8 and side rods 1, pendulum lever 9, swivel levers 15. These parts are interconnected by ball joints. The bipod is connected to the middle and side rods. It has a stop that limits the angle of rotation of the front wheels.

The middle rod 8 is one-piece, at the ends it has sockets for accommodating parts of ball joints. Side rods 1 composite. Each of them consists of two tips connected to each other by a threaded adjusting sleeve 10. The sleeve is fixed on the ends of the rod with two clamps 16. With this design of the side rods, it is possible to change their length, which is necessary to control the toe of the steered wheels. The outer tips of the side rods are pivotally connected to the 15 pivot arms, which are bolted to the steering knuckles. The inner tip of the right side rod is pivotally connected to the pendulum lever, and the tip of the left side rod is connected to the bipod. All ball joints are the same.

The ball joint of the thrust consists of a steel pin 5, the spherical head of which rests on a conical split insert 6 made of plastic with high anti-seize properties. The conical spring 4, pressing the insert against the spherical head of the pin 5, automatically maintains a clearance-free connection between them. Washer 3, which is a support for the spring, is rolled in the socket of the tip from below. The conical part of the pin enters the conical hole of the pivot arm (bipod or pendulum arm) and is fastened with a castellated nut fixed with a cotter pin. During assembly, ball joints are filled with SRB-4 grease and sealed: from below with a support washer 3, from above with a reinforced protective cover 7. Replenishment or replacement of lubricant during vehicle operation is not required. If the protective covers are in good condition and keep the inside of the hinges clean, then the service life of the latter is not limited. With a working hinge, the rod end should have an axial movement relative to the pin by 1-1.5 mm and should not have a noticeable runout.

The pendulum arm bracket is attached to the inside of the right side member with two bolts with self-locking nuts. The bracket is cast from aluminum alloy. In its through groove there are two plastic bushings 19, on which the axis 21 of the pendulum lever rotates. Washers are pressed to the ends of the bushings. The upper washer is mounted on the flats of the axle and is tightened with a castellated nut by a moment that ensures the rotation of the lever with a force of 10-20 N (1-2 kgf) applied at its end. The lower washer is pressed against the bushing by a self-locking nut with a torque of 106 N m (10 kgf-m). The pendulum lever 9 is fixed on the axle with the same nut. Rubber sealing rings 20 are installed between the end surfaces of the washers and the body of the pendulum lever bracket. During assembly, the cavity between the bushings is filled with Litol-24 grease. The bushings themselves are lubricated with the same grease.

With proper steering, the steering wheel free play should not exceed 5 ° (18-20 mm along the wheel rim), and the wheel turning force when turning on a smooth plate should not exceed 250 N (25 kgf).

Diagnostics of the technical condition of the ruddersOmanagement

Diagnostics allows you to assess the condition of the steering mechanism and steering gear without disassembling the components. Diagnosis includes work to determine steering wheel free playOscaffolding, total friction force,play in the tie rod joints.

The free play of the steering wheel and the friction force are determined using various instruments, which are called the backlash meter.

At modern service stations, most often, the following models are used from backlash meters of domestic production:

1. Backlash tester TL 2000

Backlash tester in the joints of the steering and suspension of vehicles with an axle load of up to 4 tons. Model TL 200 is a permanently installed platform consisting of a fixed plate with anti-friction linings and a movable platform moved around the angular axis by a pneumatic cylinder rod. Pneumatic cylinder of the Italian company PNEUMAX. Controlling the movement of the site using the button on the illumination lamp of the inspected mechanisms. The platform is flat and does not require deepening. Mounted on an inspection ditch or lift and fastened with two screws.

2. Instrument for measuring backlash ISL-401

Luftometer ISL-401 is the only luftomer adopted by the order of the Ministry of Internal Affairs of Russia No. 264 dated March 23, 2002 for the supply of the internal affairs bodies of the Russian Federation and the internal troops of the Ministry of Internal Affairs of Russia. The device ISL-401 is designed to measure the total backlash of the steering of vehicles by measuring the angle of rotation of the steering wheel relative to the beginning of the turn of the steered wheels in accordance with GOST R 51709-2001.

The total friction force in the steering is checked with the front wheels fully suspended by applying force to the dynamometer handles. Measurements are carried out with the wheels in a straight position and in the positions of their maximum turn to the right and left. In a properly adjusted steering mechanism, the steering wheel should turn freely from the middle position (for driving straight) with a force of 8-16 N.

At present, to determine the total friction force in the steering, it is promising to use electronic dynamometers, the general view of which is shown in the figure.

A qualitative method of visual assessment makes a conclusion about the state of the steering rod joints (to the touch at the moment of a sharp application of force to the steering wheel to the steering wheel or directly to the hinges). In this case, the play in the hinges will be manifested by the mutual relative movement of the connected steering rods and impacts in the hinges. You can more accurately determine the play in the hinges connecting the steering rods using various backlash meters, for example, shown in the figure.

Steering Maintenance

car repair steering

At EO by a qualitative method of visual assessment and during the movement of the car, they check: the tightness of the connections and hoses of the power steering system, the free play of the steering wheel, the condition of the steering gear and steering gear.

At TO-1 check: fastening and cottering of the nuts of the levers of the rotary pins, nuts and ball pins of the longitudinal and transverse steering rods; the condition of the seals of the ball pins (detected malfunctions are eliminated); fastenings (if necessary, fix the steering bipod on the shaft); steering mechanism housing on the frame and locknut of the adjusting screw of the steering arm shaft, free travel and steering wheel turning force, play in the steering gear joints (if necessary, play is eliminated); tightening (if necessary, tighten the wedges of the propeller shaft of the steering mechanism), tensioning the drive belts of the power steering pump (correct if necessary).

At TO-2 check the fastening and, if necessary, fix the steering wheel on the shaft and the steering column on the cab panel, remove and wash the filter of the power steering pump.

POSSIBLE FAULTS, THEIR CAUSES AND REMEDIES

Cause of malfunction	Elimination Method
Increased steering wheel play
1. Loosening the bolts of the steering gear housing	1. Tighten nuts
2. Loosening the nuts of the ball pins of the steering rods	2. Check and tighten the nuts
3. Increased clearance in ball joints.	3. Replace tips or tie rods
4. Increased clearance in the front wheel bearings	4. Adjust clearance
5. Increased clearance in the engagement of the roller with the worm	5. Adjust clearance
6. Too much clearance between the pendulum axle and bushings	6. Replace bushings or bracket assembly
7. Increased clearance in the worm bearings	7. Adjust clearance
Steering wheel tight
1. Deformation of steering gear parts	1. Replace deformed parts
2. Incorrect setting of the angles of the front wheels	2. Check wheel alignment and adjust
3. The gap in the engagement of the roller with the worm is broken	3. Adjust clearance
4. The adjusting nut of the pendulum arm axle is overtightened
5. Low tire pressure in the front wheels	5. Set normal pressure
6. Damage to parts of ball joints	6. Check and replace damaged parts
7. There is no oil in the crankcase of the steering gear	7. Check and top up. Replace seal if necessary.
8. Damage to the bearings of the upper steering shaft	8. Replace bearings
Noise (knocking) in the steering
1. Increased clearance in the front wheel bearings	1. Adjust clearance
2. Loosen steering ball pin nuts	2. Check and tighten the nuts
3. Increased clearance between the pendulum axle and bushings	3. Replace bushings or bracket assembly
4. The adjusting nut of the swingarm axle is loose	4. Adjust the tightening of the nut
5. The gap in the engagement of the roller with the worm or in the bearings of the worm is broken	5. Adjust clearance
6. Increased clearance in the ball joints of the steering rods	6. Replace tips or tie rods
7. Loose steering gear housing or swingarm bracket	7. Check and tighten bolt nuts
8. Loosening the swing arm nuts	8. Tighten nuts
9. Loosening of bolts of fastening of an intermediate shaft of a steering	9. Tighten the bolt nuts
Self-excited angular oscillation of the front wheels
1. Tire pressure not correct
	2. Check and adjust the front wheel alignment
3. Increased clearance in the front wheel bearings	3. Adjust clearance
4. Wheel imbalance	4. Balance the wheels
5. Loosening the nuts of the ball pins of the steering rods	5. Check and tighten the nuts
6. Loose steering gear case bolts or swing arm bracket	6. Check and tighten the bolt nuts
7. The gap in the engagement of the roller with the worm is broken	7. Adjust clearance
Driving the vehicle away from straight ahead in one direction
one . Tire pressure uneven	one . Check and set normal pressure
2. Violated the angles of the front wheels	2. Check and adjust wheel alignment
3. Different draft of the front suspension springs	3. Replace bad springs
4. Deformed steering knuckles or suspension arms	4. Check knuckles and levers, replace bad parts
5. Incomplete release of one or more wheels	5. Check the condition of the brake system, correct the malfunction
Vehicle instability
1. Violated the angles of the front wheels	1. Check and adjust wheel alignment
2. Increased clearance in the front wheel bearings	2. Adjust clearance
3. Loosening the nuts of the ball pins of the steering rods	3. Check and tighten the nuts
4. Too much play in the ball joints of the steering rods	4. Replace tips or tie rods
5. Loose steering gear housing or swing arm bracket	5. Check and tighten the bolt nuts
6. Increased clearance in the engagement of the roller and the worm	6. Adjust clearance
7. Deformed steering knuckles or suspension arms	7. Check knuckles and levers; replace deformed parts
Oil leakage from crankcase
1. Wear of the oil seal of the shaft of the bipod or worm	1. Replace the oil seal
2. Loosening the bolts securing the steering gear housing covers	2. Tighten the bolts
3. Damaged gaskets	3. Replace gaskets

Steering adjustment and repair

Steering adjustment and repair includes the following work:

1. Inspection, testing and adjustment of the steering.

2. Checking the ball joints of the steering rods

3. Checking and adjusting the clearance in the steering gear worm bearings

4. Checking and adjusting the clearance in the engagement of the roller with the worm of the steering gear

5. Dismantling and assembly work with the replacement of worn parts.

Below is a detailed description of the procedure for performing the listed works.

GENERAL INSPECTION, CHECK AND ADJUSTMENT OF STEERING

If there are malfunctions in the steering (knocking, increased free play of the steering wheel or, conversely, its tight rotation, etc.), inspect the steering parts. Inspection is carried out on a flyover or in a viewing ditch in the following order.

Clean the steering drive parts and the steering gear housing from contamination. Set the wheels to a straight ahead position.

Turning the steering wheel in both directions, make sure that:

The free play of the steering wheel does not exceed 5 ° (when measured along the wheel rim, no more than 18-20 mm);

There are no knocks in the hinges, joints and steering mechanism;

Steering gear housing and pendulum arm bracket securely (tighten screw connections if necessary);

There is no free play in the ball joints of the rods and in the bracket of the pendulum lever, and the worm shaft does not move in the axial direction;

The force of turning the steering wheel (when installing the front wheels on a smooth plate) does not exceed 196 N (20 kgf).

Turning the adjusting couplings of the side rods, make sure that their collars are tightened securely.

Check the condition of the ball joints and protective caps as indicated below.

CHECKING THE TIE ROD BALL JOINTS

First of all, check the movement of the rod ends along the axis of the fingers. To do this, using the lever and support, move the tip parallel to the axis of the finger.

The axial movement of the tip relative to the finger should be 1-1.5 mm. This movement indicates that the pin bushing is not wedged in the thrust tip socket and moves with the pin, compressing the spring. Replace jammed bushing.

By pumping the steering wheel in both directions, check by touch that there is no free play in the steering rod joints. If free play is felt in the ball joint, replace the tie rod end or tie rod assembly.

Check up a condition of protective caps of spherical hinges of steering draughts.

If the protective caps are in good condition and keep the inside of the hinges clean, then the service life of the latter is practically unlimited. If moisture, dust, etc. gets into the hinge parts wear out prematurely.

The cap must be replaced if it has cracks, ruptures, and also if the lubricant penetrates outward when squeezing it with your fingers.

CHECKING AND ADJUSTING THE GAP IN THE STEERING GEAR WORM BEARINGS

Rice. Section of the crankcase of the steering gear: 1 - plate of the adjusting screw of the bipod shaft; 2 - adjusting screw of the bipod shaft; 3 - adjusting screw nut; 4 - oil filler plug; 5 - cover of the crankcase of the steering mechanism; 6 - worm; 7 - steering gear housing; 8 - bipod; 9 - nut for fastening the bipod to the shaft; 10 - spring washer of the bipod fastening nut; 11 - bipod shaft seal; 12 - bronze bushing of the bipod shaft; 13 - bipod shaft; 14 - bipod shaft roller; 15 - worm shaft; 16 - upper ball bearing; 17 - lower ball bearing; 18 - shims; 19 - lower cover of the worm bearing; 20 - roller axis; 21 - roller ball bearing; 22 - worm shaft seal; B, C - marks

Set the front wheels to the position of rectilinear movement and, turning the steering wheel in both directions, check if the distance between the end of the crankcase 7 (Fig. 5-2) and the mark "B" applied on the shaft of the steering gear worm does not change.

A change in distance is a sign of clearance in the worm bearings.

To adjust the clearance in the worm bearings, turn the steering wheel to the left by 1-1.5 turns, unscrew the bolts securing the bottom cover 19 and drain the oil from the steering gear housing. Remove the bottom cover, remove one of the shims 18 or replace it with a thinner one.

Note. Shims are supplied as spares in 0.10 and 0.15 mm thicknesses.

After securing the bottom cover, check again if there is any axial movement of the worm in the bearings. If there is no movement, pour 0.215 liters of transmission oil TAD-17i into the crankcase of the steering mechanism.

Check the steering force by placing the front wheels on a smooth slab. It should not exceed 196 N (20 kgf).

CHECKING AND ADJUSTING THE GAP IN ENGAGING THE ROLLER WITH THE WORM OF THE STEERING MECHANISM

After making sure that there is no axial movement of the worm in the bearings, with the puller A.47035, press out the pins of the ball joints from the holes in the bipod and disconnect the rods from the bipod, while maintaining the straight position of the front wheels.

Shaking the bipod by the head, check if there is a gap in the engagement of the worm roller. Within 30° of steering wheel rotation to each side of the neutral clearance position, i.e. tangible free play of the bipod should not be.

If free play of the bipod is felt, loosen the nut 3 of the adjusting screw and, lifting the lock washer, tighten the adjusting screw 2 until the gap is eliminated. Do not overtighten the adjusting screw. Then, holding the adjusting screw with a screwdriver, tighten the nut 3.

After making sure that the bipod does not move, connect the fingers of the ball joints to it. Check steering wheel turning force. If it exceeds 196 N (20 kgf), loosen adjusting screw 2.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF THE STEERING MECHANISM

Withdrawal. Disconnect the wires from the battery and remove the signal switch by carefully prying the three latches from the bottom through the windows with a screwdriver.

Remove the steering wheel. Remove both halves of a facing casing of a shaft of a steering.

Remove the instrument panel and disconnect the three-lever switch connectors from the cable harness connectors.

Disconnect the wires from the ignition switch terminals and, having unscrewed the mounting screws and drowned the lock latch, remove the ignition switch. Loosen the clamp securing the turn signal, headlight and wiper switch housing and remove it.

Turn away a bolt of fastening of the lower end of an intermediate shaft to a shaft of a worm of the steering mechanism.

Rice. Details of the steering gear: 1 - steering gear housing; 2 - shaft seal; 3 - intermediate shaft; 4 - upper shaft; 5 - fixing plate of the front part of the bracket; 6 - steering shaft mounting bracket; 7 - upper part of the facing casing; 8 - bearing sleeve; 9 - needle bearing; 10 - steering wheel; 11 - lower part of the facing casing; 12 - bracket fastening details

Turn away bolts of fastening of an arm 6 and remove a shaft of a steering with an arm.

Unscrew the nuts securing the ball pins of the side and middle rods to the bipod, and then press the ball pins out of the holes in the bipod with a puller A.47035.

Remove the steering gear housing by first unscrewing the bolts of its fastening to the body side member. Loosen the screws securing the steering shaft seal and remove it.

Installation. Having fixed seal 2 on the bulkhead, install the steering gear housing on the side member, without fully tightening the nuts of the crankcase fastening bolts.

Use a special device to orient the crankcase so that the angle a (Fig. 5-4) does not exceed 32 °, and the gap between the shaft and the brake pedal is at least 5 mm. Then fully tighten the crankcase bolt nuts.

Set the bipod of the steering mechanism to the middle position, for which align the marks on the crankcase and on the worm shaft

Temporarily install the wheel on the shaft so that the spokes are horizontal and in this position connect the universal joint yoke of the intermediate steering shaft to the worm shaft, then attach the steering shaft bracket to the body.

Remove a steering wheel and put on a steering shaft the switch of indexes of turn, light of headlights and screen wipers.

Rice. Installation of the steering gear on the car: 1 - bolts of the steering gear housing; 2 - coupling bolt of the lower end of the intermediate shaft; 3 - bracket mounting bolts; 4 - steering shaft bracket; 27.5 mm - distance from the center of the bipod hole to the bearing surface of the steering gear case with the bipod in the middle position

Establish a steering wheel on a shaft in an initial position and, pressing a steering wheel, as it is shown by arrows in fig. check that there is no radial movement of the shaft. For radial movement, replace the upper shaft of the steering mechanism or its bearing.

Check that the steering wheel rotates smoothly and easily in both directions, then tighten the steering wheel nut and secure it at three points. Slide the turn signal, headlight and wiper switch housing towards the steering wheel until it stops and tighten the switch mounting clamp.

Connect the wires to the ignition switch terminals and screw the switch to the steering shaft bracket.

Connect the connectors for the indicator switch, headlights, and wiper to the connectors for the car's wire harness.

Mount the two halves of the cladding on the shaft and fasten them with screws. Install the horn switch on the steering wheel.

Install the middle and side left-hand ball pins on the bipod and secure them with nuts.

Adjust the toe-in of the front wheels and check the force on the steering wheel, which, when turning the wheels in place on a smooth plate, should not exceed 196 N (20 kgf) (measured on the wheel rim).

To mount the assembly, position the steering wheel spokes horizontally and connect the worm shaft to the lower end of the intermediate steering shaft.

With the bracket bolts not fully tightened, turn the steering wheel to both sides several times, then tighten the bracket bolts.

DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY OF THE STEERING CASE

Disassembly. Drain the oil from the steering box. Attach the crankcase to bracket A.74076/R with support A.74076/1.

Rice. Removing the bipod: 1 - puller A.47043; 2 - a shaft of a bipod of a steering; 3 - bipod; 4 - bracket A.74076/R

Having unscrewed the nut fastening the steering arm 2 (Fig. 5-6) and having removed the spring washer, remove the bipod with puller A.74043 (Fig. 5-5). Having unscrewed the fastening bolts, remove the cover 12 (Fig. 5-6) of the steering gear housing together with the adjusting screw 8, adjusting plate 9, lock washer 10 and lock nut. Remove the shaft 7 of the bipod assembly with the roller from the crankcase 1 of the steering mechanism.

Having unscrewed the fastening bolts, remove the cover 3 of the worm shaft thrust bearing together with the shims 4.

Rice. Details of the crankcase of the steering mechanism: 1 - crankcase; 2 - bipod "3 - bottom cover of the crankcase; 4 - shims; 5 - outer ring of the worm shaft bearing; 6 - separator with balls; 7 - bipod shaft; 8 - adjusting screw; 9 - adjusting plate; 10 - lock washer; 11 - worm shaft; 12 - upper crankcase cover; 13 - sealing gasket; 14 - bipod shaft bushing; 15 - worm shaft seal; 16 - bipod shaft seal

With the shaft 11 of the worm, push the outer ring 5 of the bearing out of the crankcase and remove the shaft together with the separator 6 of the bearings. Remove the worm shaft seal 15 and the bipod shaft seal 16.

Using tool 67.7853.9541, press out the outer ring of the upper bearing.

Rice. Removing the outer ring of the upper bearing of the worm using mandrel 67.7853.9541: 1 - steering gear housing; 2 - the outer ring of the upper bearing of the worm; 3 - mandrel 67.7853.9541

Assemble the steering mechanism on the bracket A74076/R in the reverse order of disassembly.

Press the outer ring of the upper bearing of the worm with mandrel 67.7853.9541, rearranging the nozzle on the handle of the mandrel with the reverse side.

Fig. Removing the outer ring of the upper bearing of the worm: 1 - steering gear housing; 2 - the outer ring of the upper bearing of the worm; 3 - mandrel 67.7853.9541

Rice. Control of the moment of friction of the worm with a dynamometer: 1 - worm; 2 - head A.95697/5; 3 - dynamometer 02.7812.9501; 4 - stand bracket for repairing the crankcase of the steering mechanism; 5 - steering gear housing

After installing the worm in the crankcase of the steering mechanism and fixing the bottom cover, use the dynamometer 02.7812.9501 and the head A.95697/5 (Fig. 5-9) to check the moment of friction of the worm shaft; it should be in the range of 19.6-49 N cm (2-5 kgf cm). If the torque is less than specified, reduce the thickness of the shims 2 (Fig. 5-8), and if more - increase.

After installing the bipod shaft, check the absence of play in the engagement of the roller with the worm in the positions of the worm shaft turned to the right and left by 30 ° from the neutral position of the bipod. Set the possible gap in the engagement with the adjusting screw 2 (Fig. 5-2) and tighten the lock nut 3.

After adjusting the gap in the engagement of the roller and the worm, check the friction moment of the worm shaft with a dynamometer, which should be equal to 68.6-88.2 N cm (7-9 kgf cm) when the worm shaft is rotated 30 ° both to the left and to the right from the middle position and decrease smoothly to 49 N cm (5 kgf cm) when turning from an angle of 30 ° to the stop.

Upon completion of assembly, check the angles of rotation of the bipod from the neutral position, which should be 32 ° 10 "± 1 ° both to the left and to the right, until the bipod stops against the bolt heads, pour 0.125 liters of gear oil into the steering gear housing.

CHECK AND REPAIR

Carefully inspect the working surfaces of the roller and worm for signs of wear, jamming or scratches. Replace worn and damaged parts.

Check the gap between the bushings and the bipod shaft, which should not exceed 0.10 mm. If the clearance is greater than specified, replace the bushings using drift A. 74105.

On the inner surface of the bipod shaft bushings lie spiral grooves that have access to only one side of the bushing. When pressing the bushings, position them so that their ends with groove outlets are inside the crankcase opening, and the groove outlets are located opposite each other. The ends of the bushings should be buried in the crankcase hole by 1.5 mm.

Lubricate new bushings with transmission oil before pressing.

After pressing into the crankcase, finish the bushings with a reamer A.90336 to a size of 28.698-28.720 mm. The mounting gap between the bipod shaft and bushings should be within 0.008-0.051 mm.

Check the ease of rotation of the bipod shaft roller on the ball bearing.

The ball bearings of the worm and roller must rotate freely, without sticking, and there must be no wear and damage on the surface of the rings and balls.

Check the axial clearance between the head of the adjusting screw 8 (Fig. 5-6) and the groove of the bipod shaft 7. The clearance should not exceed 0.05 mm. If it is larger, replace the adjusting plate 9 with a thicker one.

Spare parts are available in eleven sizes of shims, from 1.95 mm to 2.20 mm thick, each size increasing by 0.025 mm.

Check the condition of the fixing plates 5 (Fig. 5-3). If they are deformed, replace them.

DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY OF THE TOP STEERING SHAFT

Disassembly. Turn away a coupling bolt of a plug of the cardan hinge and disconnect an intermediate and top shaft of a steering.

If the upper shaft or its bearings are damaged, flare the coring points of the bracket pipe and remove shaft 13 (Fig. 5-1) complete with bearings 10 from the pipe.

If the shaft rotates in the bearings without binding and no axial or radial free play is felt in the bearings, disassembly of the upper steering shaft is not recommended.

If the shaft or its bearings are worn or damaged, replace them with new ones.

Reassemble in the reverse order of disassembly. Then screw in two points on both sides of the bracket tube to fix the shaft bearings.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF RODS AND BALL JOINTS OF THE STEERING GEAR

Loosen and remove the nuts that secure the side link ball pins to the steering knuckle arms.

Puller A.47052 remove the ball pins from the conical sockets on the levers.

Rice. Removing the ball pins of the steering trapezoid rods: 1 - wrench; 2 - puller A.47052; 3 - ball joint; 4 - steering knuckle lever

Loosen and unscrew the nuts securing the ball pins of the middle and side rods to the bipod and to the pendulum arm. Using puller A.47035, remove the pins from the corresponding sockets on the levers and remove the rods.

Installation of drafts of a steering make in an order, the return to removal. Tighten all ball joint nuts with a torque wrench followed by cotter pins. If the cutout of the nut does not line up with the hole for the cotter pin, then tighten the nut by an angle less than 60° to ensure the cotter pin.

After installation, adjust the toe-in of the front wheels.

CHECK AND REPAIR

Fig. Section of the ball joint of the thrust: 1 - ball pin; 2 - dirt cap; 3 - hinge body; 4 - insert; 5 - spring; 6 - plug

Check the condition of the protective caps 2 (fig. 5-11) as described above (see "Inspection, check and adjustment of the steering"). Replace damaged protective caps.

Check up on a radial and axial backlash a condition of spherical hinges of drafts. If you feel free play in the ball joint, as well as when dirt, sand get into the joint, corrosion appears on the ball pin and when the bearing stroke is fully used, replace the joint with a thrust tip.

Steering gear disassembly

To disassemble the steering gear (GAZ-51 and ZIS-150 cars) removed from the car, you must:

remove the signal button, unscrew the steering shaft nut and remove the steering wheel;
unscrew the nut and remove the steering arm;
unscrew the bolts, remove the side cover together with the bipod shaft and drain the grease from the crankcase;
unscrew the bolts, remove the bottom cover and remove the steering shaft with the worm and bearings from the crankcase.

Repair of steering gear parts

Worm and roller wear within certain limits is compensated by appropriate adjustment. In case of high wear, these parts are replaced at the same time.

Worn bearing journals of the bipod shaft are restored by chromium plating to the nominal size or ground to the repair size of the bronze bushings installed in the crankcase. The crumpled or torn thread at the end of the bipod shaft is completely removed with a cutter, then the metal is welded (surfacing is carried out by removing heat from the welding zone), machined to the required size and a new thread is cut.

Crumpled and clogged slots at the end of the bipod shaft are corrected with a trihedral file. Damaged crankcase threaded holes are welded and drilled, and then a new thread is cut into them.

Worn bearing seats in the steering gear case are bored and steel rings are pressed into them to fit the size of the bearings.

Repair of steering gear parts

In the steering drive, the ball pins (piddle arm and swing arms) and the ball pin bushings are subjected to the greatest wear. In addition, holes are sometimes developed at the ends of the rods, the threads are broken, the springs are weakened or broken, and the rods are bent. Weakened or broken springs and worn ball pin bushings are replaced with new ones. The developed holes at the ends of the steering rods are welded and processed with locksmith tools.

A bent tie rod can be straightened in a cold state or with local heating up to a temperature of 800 °. In both cases, the rods are filled with dry fine sand before straightening.

Rice. Installing the ball pin when distributing:
1 - matrix; 2 - ball pin; 3 - striker.

Worn ball pins are repaired in two ways:

A layer of metal is deposited on the worn surface by welding. After that, the surface is machined to the required size. Due to the laboriousness and complexity of the process, this method is used very rarely.
The ball pin is heated to a temperature of 1000-1100°, installed in a special matrix, and the finger is distributed by blows through the striker. Then the finger is subjected to mechanical and thermal treatment provided for in the manufacture of the finger.

Assembly and adjustment of the steering mechanism

Rice. The steering mechanism of the car GAZ-51:
1 - sealing felt ring; 2 - bottom cover; 3 - stuffing box spring; 4 - a tube of a wire of a sound signal; 5 - shims; 6 - ring of the lower bearing of the worm; 7 - steering shaft seal; 8 - worm; 9 - cork; 10 - tapered roller bearing; 11 - upper crankcase cover; 12 - steering column clamp; 13 - wire; 14 - stuffing box spring; 15 - steering shaft seal; 16 - adjusting screw locknut; 17 - adjusting screw; 18 - side cover; 19 - roller bearing of the bipod shaft; 20 - double roller; 21 - bipod shaft; 22 - bronze bushing; 23 - stuffing box; 24 - steering gear housing; 25 - steering wheel nut; 26 - steering wheel hub; 27 - roller cylindrical bearing of the steering shaft; 28 - steering column; 29 - steering shaft.

When assembling the steering mechanism with a double roller of the GAZ-51 car, the following operations are performed:

Bronze bushing 22 is pressed into the crankcase with an interference of 0.04-0.10 mm and deployed with a reamer to fit the size of the bipod shaft neck with the expectation of obtaining a gap of 0.025-0.1 mm.
The outer ring of the upper roller bearing 10 is installed in the crankcase with a gap of 0.01-0.07 mm.
A cylindrical roller bearing 27 is installed at the upper end of the steering column, and a spring 14 with an oil seal 15 is installed at the lower end; put the column on the neck of the upper cover 11 of the crankcase and fix it with a clamp 12.
From the bottom of the crankcase of the steering mechanism, a steering shaft with a worm 8 and two tapered roller bearings is inserted, the outer ring 6 of the lower bearing is placed and the bottom cover 2 is screwed with shims 5 0.12 mm thick (parchment) and 0.25 mm (cardboard).
A steering wheel is put on the splines of the steering shaft and secured with a nut 25.
Check the tightening of the worm bearings. When properly tightened, the force applied tangentially to the circumference of the steering wheel, necessary to turn the steering shaft, should be 0.3-0.5 kg. In the absence of a dynamometer, the tightening is checked by rotating the shaft, which should rotate easily and have no noticeable axial play.
A cylindrical roller bearing 19 is pressed into the side cover 18 and the adjusting screw 17 of the steering arm shaft 21 is screwed in.
The steering arm shaft (complete with roller) is connected to the adjusting screw, the shaft is installed in the crankcase and the side cover 18 is screwed with a sealing gasket.
An oil seal 23, a sealing felt ring 1 in a holder, a bipod are installed on the end of the bipod shaft and fixed with a nut.
The engagement of the roller with the worm is adjusted, for which the worm is placed in a position in which the roller will be in the middle of the worm (the car moves in a straight line).

In this position, the bipod is moved in the plane of its swing during operation and the amount of displacement of the end of the bipod is measured.

If this movement is more than 0.8 mm, then the engagement should be adjusted with the side cover screw. After the adjustment is completed, the ease of rotation of the steering shaft is checked, which should be rotated from a force of 1.6-2.2 kg applied along the tangential circumference of the steering wheel, then a lock washer is installed on the adjusting screw and the screw lock nut is tightened.

Rice. Checking the degree of tightening of the steering shaft bearings.

When assembling the steering mechanism with a triple roller of the ZIS-150 car, the following operations are performed:

Bronze bushings are pressed into the crankcase of the steering mechanism and into the side cover and deployed by reamer. From the side of the bipod, a cork gland 3 and a gland washer 4 are installed in the crankcase, which is bent in three places.
Install the outer ring of the upper roller bearing into the crankcase, insert the steering shaft with the worm and bearings 8, the outer ring of the lower roller bearing and screw the cover 5 with steel shims 6.
From above, an oil seal 11, a ball bearing 12, a spring are installed in the steering column, the key 13 is inserted into the steering shaft, the steering wheel is put on and secured with a nut.
The tightening of the worm bearings is adjusted with the gaskets of the bottom cover so that the force to rotate the shaft, applied tangentially to the circumference of the steering wheel, is 0.3-0.8 kg according to the dynamometer.
The steering arm shaft 25 is assembled with a three-row roller into the crankcase and the side cover 19 with a sealing gasket is screwed on. Rubber sealing rings 21 are installed on the cover.
Adjusting steel rings and a persistent bronze washer are put on the bipod shaft. Screw the shaped nut to failure, put on the steering arm and check the correct engagement of the roller with the worm. To do this, the worm and roller are set to the middle position (vehicle movement in a straight line) and the amount of movement of the end of the bipod is checked (normally it should be no more than 0.8 mm). In this case, the force for turning the shaft, applied tangentially to the circumference of the steering wheel, should be 2.5 kg.
After adjusting the engagement, the shaped nut is secured with a locking plate.

Rice. The steering mechanism of the car ZIS-150:
1 - bracket for fastening the crankcase of the steering mechanism; 2 - bushing of the steering arm shaft; 3 - cork gland; 4 - stuffing box washer; 5 - bottom cover; 6 - adjusting shims of worm bearings; 7 - bracket cover; 8 - roller tapered bearings of the worm; 9 - cork; 10 - signal wire tube; 11 - stuffing box; 12 - ball bearing; 13 - key; 14 - steering wheel frame; 15 - steering column; 16 - horn wire; 17 - steering shaft; 18 - steering gear housing; 19 - side cover of the crankcase; 20 - locking plate; 21 - rubber sealing rings; 22 - adjusting steel rings; 23 - thrust washer; 24 - shaped nut; 25 - steering arm shaft; 26 - longitudinal beam of the frame; 27 - steering bipod.

MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR OF STEERING ASSEMBLY

MAIN STEERING FAULTS

STEERING WHEEL PLAY EXCEEDS NORMATIVE ANGLE — for old car models 25°; for newer models 10-15°.

Causes:

loosening of the steering wheel on the splines of the steering shaft;

loosening of the steering column;

loosening of the fastening of the crankcase of the steering mechanism;

backlash in universal joints or splined joints - for vehicles with articulated composite) steering shafts (ZIL, KamAZ, etc.);

backlash of the connecting (safe) coupling;

backlash in the engagement of the working pair "worm-roller";

backlash in the conical bearings of the worm;

tail rotor play;

backlash in the engagement of the working pair of piston-rail and toothed sector of the bipod shaft;

backlash in bearings or in the meshing of the bevel gears of the angular gearbox;

weakening of the fastening of the bipod - on the conical splines of the bipod shaft;

play in the steering joints;

pendulum arm play - for cars with independent suspension;

backlash in the pivot joints of the steering pins of the wheels;

backlash in the conical bearings of the front wheel hubs.

The above steering play occurs mainly when mating parts are worn or when various mates are incorrectly adjusted.

STEERING WHEEL STICKING OR DIFFICULT TURNING WHEN VEHICLE IS DRIVING.

Causes:

over-tension in the engagement of the working pair or in the tapered bearings of the worm - during adjustment;

curvature of the steering shaft, column or steering rods;

ellipsoidal wear of the working heads of the ball pins and liners of the steering joints - can lead to complete jamming of the steering;

jamming of the pendulum lever - occurs when it is bent, the bushings are worn;

increased viscosity of oil in the steering gear - usually at low temperatures;

lack or hardening of lubricant in various nodes - in steering joints, in pivot joints;

kingpin bending;

sticking of the piston-rail pair in the crankcase cylinder in cars with hydraulic booster - occurs when the grooves are dirty and the piston drive screw is stuck, when the piston pin breaks;

jamming of the spool or jet plungers of the control valve;

low oil level in the pump reservoir, the presence of air or water in the system - leads to strong foaming in the reservoir, the oil can completely leak out of the system;

the oil pump does not develop the necessary supply and sufficient pressure in the hydraulic booster system - it occurs when the drive belt slips, when the bypass valve hangs or the check valve sticks (mainly when contaminated), when the safety valve fails (during contamination, broken spring, etc.) .

COMPLETE FAILURE IN OPERATION OF THE STEERING CONTROL.

Causes:

disconnection of the steering rods - usually happens when spontaneous unscrewing of the non-cottered nuts of the ball pins of the steering joints of the rods;

destruction of the steering joints with separation of the steering rods - with unacceptably large play in the steering joints when the fingers and liners are worn, it is aggravated by the possibility of shock loads on the hinges when hitting various obstacles, during an accident, etc.

jamming of the working pair worm-roller - with a large backlash in the conical bearings of the worm (leading to axial play of the worm and the steering shaft), with a strong backlash in the engagement of the working pair itself.When turning the steering wheel to any extreme position, the roller tooth can fall on the end edge of the working part of the worm (especially when the steering wheel is returned to its original position).

According to the technical conditions, the steering should ensure reliable controllability of the car in all modes and conditions of the car in a given direction, while the driver should not expend much effort on steering, however, the smooth operation of the steering is ensured not only by the serviceability of the elements included in it: a significant impact is exerted by the technical condition and other components and parameters of the car.

The deterioration of the stability of the car can be in violation of normal tire pressure, camber and toe angles, in violation of wheel balance, etc.

MAINTENANCE

Before leaving the line, open the hood and visually check the general condition of the steering.

Pay special attention to the condition of the drive belt of the power steering pump, the safety coupling, to the fastening of the steering gear housing, check for oil leaks from it (from under the covers, through the seals of the bipod shaft, from under the bolt of the oil drain hole, etc.). d.).

To increase the convenience of checking the cotter pins of the steering joint nuts during daily inspection, one of the cotter pin antennae is bent up above the nut, then it is quite clearly visible even in a contaminated state.

The tightness of the hydraulic booster system should be checked with the engine running.

Upon returning, the driver is obliged to inform the mechanic on duty of the garage (or KTP) about all the malfunctions in the operation of the steering noticed while working on the line, and he, in turn, on the basis of his own inspection and verification, as well as from the words of the driver, must make a conclusion about the technical condition of the steering of the car, while personally checking the cotter pins of the steering hinge nuts and possible play in them (visually, when the driver shakes the steering wheel sharply in both directions).

In case of deviation from the standard parameters of the steering operation, detection of various malfunctions (including according to the driver), it is necessary to send the car to the current repair area to clarify the nature of the malfunction and, if necessary, carry out repair work.

It is necessary to remember:

in case of failure on the hydraulic booster line, as well as when towing a car with an idle engine, it is allowed to use the steering only for a short time - in order to avoid rapid wear or breakage of parts of the steering mechanism;

towing cars with hydraulic booster for a long distance can only be done with the front axle hung out;

TO-1

Carry out inspection and fixing work.

Check:

Are the rods deformed, the pendulum lever (for cars);

are there any cracks and oil leaks from the steering mechanism;

the condition of the seals of the steering rod joints (damaged seals are replaced without fail);

cotter pin nuts of ball pins used for fastening adjacent rods (replace badly corroded and deformed cotter pins.

All fastening work must be done on all threaded connections, with a force corresponding to the technical specifications (the castellated nuts of the steering joints should be tried to tighten with a wrench without unpinning them - if they move out of place, then they should be unpinned and tightened with the appropriate force).

After fixing work, you should check the free play of the steering wheel (backlash) using K-187 or K-402 backlash dynamometers. To do this, having previously fixed the arrow on the steering column, and the device itself on the steering wheel, turn the steering wheel to the right and left (before the left wheel starts turning), while measuring the angle on the instrument scale.The effort to turn the steering wheel is measured in the same way, on a dynamometer scale (it is advisable to do this check with the wheels suspended, which will more accurately determine the technical condition of the steering).

If the backlash exceeds the factory specifications, and even more so the maximum allowable backlash (permitted during operation by the traffic police), it is necessary to find out the cause and carefully check the possibility of backlash in the above nodes.

Backlash in the steering joints of passenger cars is checked by a sharp swing in opposite directions of adjacent rods. Backlash in the pendulum lever is determined by swinging the end of the lever in a vertical plane.

For trucks and buses, with rods of increased diameter, the check is carried out with the help of a partner, who sharply turns the steering wheel to the right and left, and the second locksmith monitors possible play in turn in all hinges. If, during the test, cover the tested hinge with the palm of your hand (observing precautions), then you can additionally feel shocks and shocks in the hinge with increased wear of parts.

Carry out lubrication work: if there are oilers on the steering joints, use a grease gun to fill the joints with fresh grease (until the old grease is completely removed through the gaps). TsIATIM-201, Litol-24 is used as a lubricant.

It is necessary to check the oil level in the crankcase of the steering mechanism - it should be 15-20 mm below the edge of the filler hole. The oil is drained during a complete replacement with the oil filler plug and one of the lower bolts for fastening the lower cover of the steering mechanism (which at the same time is like an oil drain plug) turned out.

On vehicles with hydraulic booster, additionally check the tension of the pump drive belt. Belt deflection should not exceed 15-22 mm with a force of 40N. The belt is tensioned by pulling the oil pump housing with the pump bracket bolts loosened.

TO-2

In addition to TO-1, the scope of diagnostic work for vehicles with hydraulic booster includes monitoring the pressure in the hydraulic system developed by the pump. For this, a simple device is used, consisting of a tee with a shut-off valve and a pressure gauge.

In large ATPs, more complex designs are used, which make it possible to determine with greater accuracy a number of parameters of the operation of the hydraulic booster system - this is a portable device K-405 or a mobile stand K-465M.

During the test, a tee is installed between the pump and the high pressure hose going to the spool. The oil temperature should be between 65-75°C. Start the engine at idle speed and, having opened the valve of the device, turn the steering wheel all the way (so that the spool mechanism is fully open) in any direction, with a force of at least 100 N.

Models K-405 and K-465M include a number of additional devices, thanks to which the test can be carried out according to the following parameters: developed pressure and pump flow (at the speed of the HF engine controlled by an electronic tachometer); the amount of overflowing oil in the amplifier; the moment of the beginning and full opening of the spool of the amplifier (according to the angle of rotation of the wheels); oil temperature in the system.

With TO-2, it is mandatory to check the technical condition of the steering mechanism, both with a working worm-roller pair, and for vehicles with hydraulic booster. To do this, they usually disconnect the bipod from the steering rods and, shaking it in both directions, determine if there is any play in the tapered bearings of the worm (in this case, play in the steering shaft is felt) and in the engagement of the working pairs.

When backlash is detected, conventional steering gears with a working worm-roller pair are removed and transferred to the assembly shop for adjustments or repairs.

For vehicles with hydraulic booster, the adjustment of the engagement of the gear sector of the bipod shaft with the teeth of the piston-rack pair is adjusted directly on the vehicle by turning the pre-opened adjusting screw with a screwdriver, the bipod shaft with the gear sector moves, and the teeth of the working pair fit tightly into each other (due to the taper of the teeth) .In this case, over-tensioning in engagement is unacceptable.

With TO-2, in the order of related repairs, it is possible to replace individual faulty easily accessible parts and entire steering gear assemblies.

If it is necessary to disconnect the steering rods by pressing out the ball pins from the conical holes of adjacent rods, special pullers should be used. It is unacceptable to use large shock loads for this purpose (sledgehammers, etc.).

It consists mainly in the replacement of faulty components and parts.

Faulty components are delivered to the assembly shop, where they are washed, disassembled, troubleshooted and replaced with faulty, worn parts.

The adjustment of the working pair worm-roller is carried out in the following sequence: first, the bolts of the lower crankcase cover are unscrewed and an adjusting shim of the appropriate thickness is removed from under it to eliminate play in the tapered bearings. Then, after unlocking, the adjusting plug is wrapped with a hex wrench until the teeth of the roller enter into normal engagement with the teeth of the worm.

Maintenance of steering mechanisms is planned. The scope of work performed is determined by the type of maintenance. In the process of daily maintenance, it is necessary to check the free play of the steering wheel, the condition of the bipod mounts, as well as the limiters for the maximum angles of rotation of the steered wheels. In addition, it is necessary to check the clearance in the hydraulic booster joints and steering rods daily, as well as the operation of the hydraulic booster and steering. These checks are made with the engine running.
During the first maintenance (TO-1), it is necessary to check the fastening and splitting of the bipod nuts, ball pins, pivot pin levers; free play of the steering wheel and steering rod joints; the condition of the pivots and lock washers; tightening nuts, wedges of the cardan shaft of the steering; the tightness of the power steering system, as well as the level of lubricant in the power steering reservoir, top it up if necessary.

In the process of TO-2, they perform the same work as during TO-1, and also check the installation angles of the front wheels and, if necessary, adjust them; check and, if necessary, tighten the fastening of the wedges of the pivots, the steering gear housing, the steering column of the steering wheel; steering clearances, steering rod joints and pivot joints; condition and fastening of the cardan shaft of the steering; fastening and tightness of components and parts of the power steering.

During seasonal maintenance, TO-2 work is performed, as well as seasonal replacement of lubricant.
Visual control of the technical condition of parts, assemblies and steering mechanisms is carried out by inspection and testing. If access to the steering parts is not possible from above, then the inspection can be carried out above the inspection hole.
The control of the mounting of the column and the steering mechanism is carried out by applying forces in all directions. During such a check, axial movement or rolling of the steering wheel, pads, as well as the presence of knocking in the steering units is not allowed.
When checking the fastenings of the steering gear housing, as well as the levers of the pivot pins, it is necessary to turn the steering wheel around the neutral position by 40-50 ° in each direction. The condition of the steering gear, as well as the reliability of fastening the connections, is checked by applying an alternating load directly to the drive parts. The operation of the turn limiters is checked visually when the steered wheels are turned in different directions until they stop.

In order to check the tightness of the connections of the power steering system, it is necessary to hold the steering wheel in the extreme positions with the engine running. In addition, the tightness of the connections of the hydraulic booster system is checked in the free position of the steering wheel. Connections are considered tight if there is no leakage of lubricant. In addition, when checking, spontaneous rotation of the steering wheel with a power steering booster from neutral to extreme positions or vice versa is not allowed.
The friction force, as well as the free play of the steering wheel, is checked using a special device, which consists of a dynamometer and a backlash meter. The backlash meter includes a scale, which is attached to the dynamometer, and an index arrow, which is fixed to the steering block with clamps. The dynamometer is attached to the steering wheel rim with clamps. On the handle of the device is a dynamometer scale. When measuring the steering wheel play, a force of 10 N is applied to the instrument handle, which acts in both directions. After that, the arrow of the device shows the total amount of backlash. For cars, the total backlash should be within 10 °, and for trucks - within 20 °. On vehicles equipped with hydraulic booster, play is determined with the engine running.
The total friction force is determined with the front wheels fully extended. If the steering is correctly adjusted, then the wheel should turn freely from the middle position for driving in a straight line with a force of 8-16 N.
The condition of the steering rod joints is assessed visually, applying efforts to the steering wheel. The backlash in the hinges is manifested in the mutual relative movement of the connected parts.

Power steering check carried out by measuring the pressure in the hydraulic booster system. To check, it is necessary to insert a pressure gauge with a tap into the discharge line. Pressure measurements are made with the engine running at low speed, turning the wheels to the extreme positions. The pressure that the hydraulic booster pump develops must be at least 6 MPa. If the pressure is less than 6 MPa, then it is necessary to close the valve, after which the pressure should rise to 6.5 MPa. If, after closing the valve, the pressure does not rise, it means that the pump has failed, which must be repaired or replaced with a new one.

Adjustment work on the steering mechanism includes work on adjusting the axial clearance in the engagement, as well as in the propeller shaft bearings.
The steering gear is considered serviceable and suitable for further use if the play of the steering wheel when driving in a straight line does not exceed 10 °. If the play exceeds the allowable values, then it is necessary to check the clearance in the propeller shaft bearings. If there is a sufficiently large clearance in the bearings, then the axial play will be easily felt.

In order to eliminate the play in the shaft bearings, it is necessary to unscrew the bolts, remove the steering gear housing cover and then remove one shim. After removing the gasket, the end play must be checked again. The operation must be repeated until the force to turn the steering wheel is 3-6 N.
The adjustment of the engagement of the screw (worm) with the roller is adjusted without removing the steering gear. To do this, unscrew the nut from the screw shaft pin, then remove the washer from the pin, after that, using a special key, turn the adjusting screw several cuts in the lock washer. As a result of this, there is a change in the amount of lateral clearance in the engagement, which, in turn, changes the free play of the steering wheel.
In order to determine the amount of play in the joints of the steering gear, it is necessary to sharply shake the bipod of the steering wheel when turning the steering wheel. After checking, if necessary, tighten the screw plug. In addition, when checking the axial play, lubrication is added to the joints, and in case of high wear, the ball pin or the entire rod assembly is replaced.
The main malfunctions of the control system include: breakages and cracks on the crankcase mounting flange, wear of the hole in the crankcase for the bushing of the steering arm shaft and parts of the ball joints of the steering rods; wear of the worm and roller of the bipod shaft, bushings, bearings and their seats; bending of the rods and loosening of the steering wheel on the shaft.

In case of significant wear of the working surface or when the hardened layer is peeled off, the steering wheel worm is replaced with a new one. If there are cracks on the surface of the shaft roller, it is replaced with a new one. Worm and roller must be replaced at the same time.
Worn bipod shaft journals are restored by chrome plating and subsequent grinding to the nearest repair size. The shaft journal can be restored by grinding the bronze bushings installed in the crankcase to the nearest repair size.
Worn bearing seats in the steering housing can be repaired with an additional bushing. The bushing is pressed into the worn bearing seat, then the bushing is bored to fit the working size of the bearing.
Breaks and cracks in the crankcase mounting flange can be repaired by cooking with a gas flame. The worn hole in the crankcase is bored to the repair size.

In addition, ball pins and tie rod bearings are subject to rapid wear. Thread stripping often occurs at the ends of the tie rods. In addition, during operation, there is a weakening or breakage of the springs, as well as a violation of the bending of the rods.
Worn ball pins that have chips or scuffs must be replaced with new ones. Simultaneously with the replacement of ball pins, their inserts are replaced. Broken or weakened springs cannot be repaired and must be replaced with new ones. Violation of the bending of the rods is eliminated by straightening the rod in the cold state.

The main malfunctions of the hydraulic booster are the lack of amplification at any engine speed, as well as uneven or insufficient amplification when the steering wheel is turned in both directions.
In order to eliminate malfunctions of the hydraulic amplification system, it is necessary to drain the oil from the system, thoroughly rinse its constituent parts, and also disassemble the pump.

The sequence for disassembling the hydraulic boost pump is as follows:
1) remove the tank and filter cover;
2) while holding the safety valve from falling out, it is necessary to remove the tank from the pump housing;
3) remove the distribution disk;
4) remove the stator, having previously noted its position relative to the distribution disk and the pump casing;
5) remove the rotor assembly with the blades.

In addition, when repairing the hydraulic boost pump, it is necessary to remove the pulley, retaining ring and pump shaft with front bearing.
Pump parts must be washed with a solution, rinsed with water and then blown with compressed air.
During maintenance, it is necessary to check the free movement of the bypass valve in the pump cover, as well as the absence of scoring or wear on the end surfaces of the rotor, housing and camshaft.
After inspection, troubleshooting and assembly, the pump must be tested on the bench. The steering mechanism after checking, repairing and checking parts is assembled, adjusted and tested with a hydraulic booster assembly.
In addition, due to malfunctions in the steering system, knocking during movement, unstable vehicle movement, as well as heavy steering can occur.

If the steering wheel is hard to turn, check the pressure in the front tires. Another cause of a tight steering wheel may be the deformation of the steering gear parts. In this case, you should check whether the steering rods and swing arms are bent, and replace the deformed parts.

If the steering wheel is hard to turn, the oil level in the steering gear housing should also be checked and topped up if necessary. If the inspection reveals a defective oil seal, it must be replaced with a new one. In addition, in some cases, the cause of tight rotation of the steering wheel in the cold is the thickening of the gear oil. It is necessary to check the spherical joints of the steering rods by moving the tips of the rods along the axis of the pins. To check with a lever and support, move the tip parallel to the axis of the fingers. If the pin insert is not jammed in the socket of the thrust tip, the axial movement of the tip relative to the pin is 1-1.5 mm, if the insert is jammed, then it must be replaced together with the insert.

In addition, the steering wheel may be hard to turn after the swingarm is repaired. This can occur due to the adjusting nut being overtightened when replacing bushings or the pendulum axle. If the nut is not tightened correctly, the pendulum arm will rotate in a horizontal position under its own weight. If the nut is tightened correctly, then the lever will turn only under the action of the force applied to its end.
In the event that the nut is overtightened, then it is necessary to unscrew it, then lift the washer and tighten the nut again. After the tightening of the nut is corrected, it is necessary to connect the ball pins of the rods to the lever.

If there is no problem with the steering, then the problem is with the angle of the front wheels. The alignment of the front wheels should be checked after repairing or replacing parts of the front suspension, as well as after driving on rough roads. However, it must be borne in mind that fine adjustment of the angles of the front wheels can only be carried out at a service station.
Knocking of the front suspension while driving, vibrations of the front wheels, difficult driving may occur as a result of an increase in clearances in the connection of steering parts due to wear of parts, loosening of the fastening nuts of the Tips or ball pins. In order to eliminate the gaps, it is necessary to tighten the nuts of the ball pins of the steering rods, the adjusting nut of the axis of the pendulum lever, the nuts of the ball pins of the swing arms, as well as the bolts of the steering mechanism, the pendulum arm bracket. In addition, to eliminate noise, you need to adjust the engagement of the roller with the worm or the worm bearings.

In case of a sharp deterioration in the stability of the car, it is necessary to stop and check the fastenings of the steering housing, the pendulum arm bracket, the steering column shaft bracket to the body, as well as the tightness of the ball pin nuts.
If during the movement the steering wheel of the car “pulls” to the side, then the problem is most likely a pressure drop in one of the front wheels, so the car deviates in its direction. With a drop in pressure in one of the rear wheels, the car, even at low speed, begins to drive in one direction, then in the other.

If the vehicle constantly veers to one side, the stub axle or swing arm may be deformed due to fast driving on rough roads. In this case, the car is constantly skidding. To check the technical condition of the trunnion and levers, contact a service station. If these parts are deformed to such an extent that they cannot be restored, then these parts must be replaced with new ones.

During the first maintenance (TO-1), it is necessary to check the fastening and splitting of the bipod nuts, ball pins, pivot pin levers; free play of the steering wheel and steering rod joints; the condition of the pivots and lock washers; tightening nuts, wedges of the cardan shaft of the steering; the tightness of the power steering system, as well as the level of lubricant in the power steering reservoir, top it up if necessary.

During seasonal maintenance, TO-2 work is performed, as well as seasonal replacement of lubricant.
Visual control of the technical condition of parts, assemblies and steering mechanisms is carried out by inspection and testing. If access to the steering parts is not possible from above, then the inspection can be carried out above the inspection hole. The control of the mounting of the column and the steering mechanism is carried out by applying forces in all directions. During such a check, axial movement or rolling of the steering wheel, pads, as well as the presence of knocking in the steering units is not allowed. When checking the fastenings of the steering gear housing, as well as the levers of the pivot pins, it is necessary to turn the steering wheel around the neutral position by 40-50 ° in each direction. The condition of the steering gear, as well as the reliability of fastening the connections, is checked by applying an alternating load directly to the drive parts. The operation of the turn limiters is checked visually when the steered wheels are turned in different directions until they stop.

In order to check the tightness of the connections of the power steering system, it is necessary to hold the steering wheel in the extreme positions with the engine running. In addition, the tightness of the connections of the hydraulic booster system is checked in the free position of the steering wheel. Connections are considered tight if there is no leakage of lubricant. In addition, when checking, spontaneous rotation of the steering wheel with a power steering booster from the neutral position to the extreme ones or vice versa is not allowed. The friction force, as well as the free play of the steering wheel, is checked using a special device, which consists of a dynamometer and a backlash meter. The backlash meter includes a scale, which is attached to the dynamometer, and an index arrow, which is fixed to the steering block with clamps. The dynamometer is attached to the steering wheel rim with clamps. On the handle of the device is a dynamometer scale. When measuring the steering wheel play, a force of 10 N is applied to the instrument handle, which acts in both directions. After that, the arrow of the device shows the total amount of backlash. For cars, the total backlash should be within 10 °, and for trucks - within 20 °. On vehicles equipped with hydraulic booster, play is determined with the engine running.
The total friction force is determined with the front wheels fully extended. If the steering is correctly adjusted, then the wheel should turn freely from the middle position to move in a straight line with a force of 8-16 N. The condition of the steering rod joints is assessed visually, applying efforts to the steering wheel. The backlash in the hinges is manifested in the mutual relative movement of the connected parts.

The power steering is checked by measuring the pressure in the power steering system. To check, it is necessary to insert a pressure gauge with a tap into the discharge line. Pressure measurements are made with the engine running at low speed, turning the wheels to the extreme positions. The pressure that the hydraulic booster pump develops must be at least 6 MPa. If the pressure is less than 6 MPa, then it is necessary to close the valve, after which the pressure should rise to 6.5 MPa. If, after closing the valve, the pressure does not rise, it means that the pump has failed, which must be repaired or replaced with a new one.

Adjustment work on the steering mechanism includes work on adjusting the axial clearance in the engagement, as well as in the propeller shaft bearings. The steering gear is considered serviceable and suitable for further use if the play of the steering wheel when driving in a straight line does not exceed 10 °. If the play exceeds the allowable values, then it is necessary to check the clearance in the propeller shaft bearings. If there is a sufficiently large clearance in the bearings, then the axial play will be easily felt.

In order to eliminate the play in the shaft bearings, it is necessary to unscrew the bolts, remove the steering gear housing cover and then remove one shim. After removing the gasket, the end play must be checked again. The operation must be repeated until the force to turn the steering wheel is 3-6 N.
The adjustment of the engagement of the screw (worm) with the roller is adjusted without removing the steering gear. To do this, unscrew the nut from the screw shaft pin, then remove the washer from the pin, after that, using a special key, turn the adjusting screw several cuts in the lock washer. As a result of this, there is a change in the amount of lateral clearance in the engagement, which, in turn, changes the free play of the steering wheel. In order to determine the amount of play in the joints of the steering gear, it is necessary to sharply shake the bipod of the steering wheel when turning the steering wheel. After checking, if necessary, tighten the screw plug. In addition, when checking the axial play, lubrication is added to the joints, and in case of high wear, the ball pin or the entire rod assembly is replaced.

The main malfunctions of the control system include: breakages and cracks on the crankcase mounting flange, wear of the hole in the crankcase for the bushing of the steering arm shaft and parts of the ball joints of the steering rods; wear of the worm and roller of the bipod shaft, bushings, bearings and their seats; bending of the rods and loosening of the steering wheel on the shaft.

Worn bipod shaft journals are restored by chrome plating and subsequent grinding to the nearest repair size. The shaft journal can be restored by grinding the bronze bushings installed in the crankcase to the nearest repair size.
Worn bearing seats in the steering housing can be repaired with an additional bushing. The bushing is pressed into the worn bearing seat, then the bushing is bored to fit the working size of the bearing.
Breaks and cracks in the crankcase mounting flange can be repaired by cooking with a gas flame. The worn hole in the crankcase is bored to the repair size.

The main malfunctions of the hydraulic booster are the lack of amplification at any engine speed, as well as uneven or insufficient amplification when the steering wheel is turned in both directions. In order to eliminate malfunctions of the hydraulic amplification system, it is necessary to drain the oil from the system, thoroughly rinse its constituent parts, and also disassemble the pump.

The sequence for disassembling the hydraulic boost pump is as follows:
1) remove the tank and filter cover;

2) while holding the safety valve from falling out, it is necessary to remove the tank from the pump housing;

3) remove the distribution disk;

4) remove the stator, having previously noted its position relative to the distribution disk and the pump casing;

5) remove the rotor assembly with the blades.

In addition, when repairing the hydraulic boost pump, it is necessary to remove the pulley, retaining ring and pump shaft with front bearing. Pump parts must be washed with a solution, rinsed with water and then blown with compressed air. During maintenance, it is necessary to check the free movement of the bypass valve in the pump cover, as well as the absence of scoring or wear on the end surfaces of the rotor, housing and camshaft. After inspection, troubleshooting and assembly, the pump must be tested on the bench. The steering mechanism after checking, repairing and checking parts is assembled, adjusted and tested with a hydraulic booster assembly. In addition, due to malfunctions in the steering system, knocking during movement, unstable vehicle movement, as well as heavy steering can occur.

If the steering wheel is hard to turn, the oil level in the steering gear housing should also be checked and topped up if necessary. If the inspection reveals a defective oil seal, it must be replaced with a new one. In addition, in some cases, the cause of tight rotation of the steering wheel in the cold is the thickening of the gear oil. It is necessary to check the spherical joints of the steering rods by moving the tips of the rods along the axis of the pins. To check with a lever and support, move the tip parallel to the axis of the fingers. If the pin insert is not stuck in the thrust tip socket, the axial movement of the tip relative to the pin is 1-1.5 mm, if the insert is stuck, then it must be replaced together with the insert.

In addition, the steering wheel may be hard to turn after the swingarm is repaired. This can occur due to the adjusting nut being overtightened when replacing bushings or the pendulum axle. If the nut is not tightened correctly, the pendulum arm will rotate in a horizontal position under its own weight. If the nut is tightened correctly, then the lever will turn only under the action of the force applied to its end. In the event that the nut is overtightened, then it is necessary to unscrew it, then lift the washer and tighten the nut again. After the tightening of the nut is corrected, it is necessary to connect the ball pins of the rods to the lever.

If there is no problem with the steering, then the problem is with the angle of the front wheels. The alignment of the front wheels should be checked after repairing or replacing parts of the front suspension, as well as after driving on rough roads. However, it must be borne in mind that fine adjustment of the angles of the front wheels can only be carried out at a service station. Knocking of the front suspension while driving, vibrations of the front wheels, difficult driving may occur as a result of an increase in clearances in the connection of steering parts due to wear of parts, loosening of the fastening nuts of the Tips or ball pins. In order to eliminate the gaps, it is necessary to tighten the nuts of the ball pins of the steering rods, the adjusting nut of the axis of the pendulum lever, the nuts of the ball pins of the swing arms, as well as the bolts of the steering mechanism, the pendulum arm bracket. In addition, to eliminate noise, you need to adjust the engagement of the roller with the worm or the worm bearings.

Maintenance of suspensions, hubs, wheels and tires.

Maintenance is a complex of technical actions and cooperations to keep the vehicle in good working order.

Repair is a complex of technical influences and cooperations to restore the good condition of technical means.

Every day before leaving, it is necessary to check the condition of the wheels and tires by inspection (the presence of damage, foreign objects stuck in the tire tread, the presence of caps on the valves) and the air pressure in them (tire crushing), and approximately every 1000 km of run, check the air pressure with a tire pressure gauge and if necessary, bring it to normal, and also check the fastening of the wheels by tightening them.

After the first 2,000 km, and then every 10,000 ... 15,000 km of run, as well as after strong impacts on obstacles on the road (getting into pits, hitting random objects or stones, etc.), check the condition of the front parts suspension by inspection from below the car after installing it on a lift, overpass or inspection ditch.

Inspection checks for cracks on the suspension parts or traces of rubbing against road obstacles or the body, deformations of the levers, stretch marks, stabilizer bar, its struts and body front elements at the attachment points of the suspension units and parts. Deformation of suspension parts and, above all, stretch marks, torque rods and parts of the front end of the body violates the angles of the wheels and can lead to the impossibility of their adjustment. If such deformations are detected, it is necessary to check the wheel alignment angles.

Every 10,000 km of run, in order to increase the uniformity of tire wear and their service life, the wheels should be rearranged according to the scheme shown on when installing bias-ply tires on a car. When installing tires with a radial cord on a car, the rearrangement should be carried out only if increased and uneven wear of the tires of the front wheels is detected as a result of a violation of the wheel alignment angles. In this case, the wheel alignment is checked and the rear and front tires are swapped, keeping the direction of their rotation (the front tire is swapped with the rear tire on the same side of the car). When changing the direction of rotation of the radial tire in case of cross replacement, as shown in Fig. 274, it breaks down faster.

Every 10,000 ... 15,000 km of run, you should check the wheel balance, the condition of the suspension ball joints and control the clearances in the hubs of the front (for cars with a classic layout) and rear (for a ZAZ-1102 car) wheels and, if necessary, add to them lubricant (Litol-24).

Every 20,000 ... 30,000 km of run, and if increased and uneven wear of the tires of the front wheels is detected earlier, you should check the wheel alignment angles and replace the grease in the wheel hubs of cars with a classic layout, as well as in the rear wheel hubs of a ZAZ- 1102 with disassembly of hubs and washing of parts.

Repair of the pendulum lever is carried out when its play in the body is detected. A small play can be eliminated by tightening the lever mounting nut in the bracket directly on the vehicle. If it is impossible to eliminate the backlash by tightening the nut, the lever is removed from the vehicle assembly with the bracket and repaired by replacing the bushings, which can be made of rubber (on an IZH-21251 car) or plastic (on a VAZ-2105 car). In case of increased wear of the lever axis or bracket, the pendulum lever assembly with the axle or the entire pendulum lever assembly with the bracket are replaced separately.

Maintenance of the steering consists mainly in checking its condition, tightening the fasteners, adjusting the clearance in the working pair of the steering gear and tightening the bearings. The main indicator of the state of the steering is the free play (backlash) of the steering wheel. A large free play makes driving much more difficult, as this increases the time required to turn the steered wheels, which is especially dangerous at high speeds.

Every day before leaving, it is necessary to check for noise and knocks when the steering wheel is turned in one direction or the other, and also at least approximately estimate the free play of the steering wheel by the distance on its rim.

After the first 2000 ... 3000 km, and then every 10,000 ... 15,000 km of run, the condition of the steering as a whole is checked. This is done together on a flyover or inspection ditch. Turning the steering wheel from lock to lock, you need to check: fastening of the crankcase of the steering gear and steering wheel; lack of gaps in rubber-metal and ball joints of steering rods; tightening the tie rods and rack; no jamming, noise and knocks; the condition of the protective covers of the steering mechanism and ball joints of the steering rods.

Loose connections must be tightened, the causes of noise and knocks must be identified and eliminated. Particular attention should be paid to the condition of the protective covers of the crankcase of the steering mechanism and ball joints, since if they are damaged, wear increases sharply and the performance of the steering mechanism and joints decreases. If the ball joint boot is cracked or grease comes out when pressed, it must be replaced.

Similar information.