(car jerks when braking and starting, usually in winter) (Xonda-Airwave 2005). In the “D” position, the light blinks, I did it again from the 6th point (according to the instructions) twice and nothing, it continues to blink. What is the problem? What am I doing wrong? (Andrey)
Andrew, good afternoon. We have analyzed your question and are ready to give some recommendations. First of all, it should be noted that if “D” blinks, then this means that there is a malfunction in the box, diagnostics are needed!
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As you know, this procedure should be carried out in case of incorrect operation of the unit.
If you have already used the search on our resource, then you know that there are several types of automatic transmission calibration:
- in the parking lot;
- and while driving.
If you used only one of these methods, we recommend that you check the unit using the second method as well. In theory, there is practically no difference in these methods, but each unit has its own characteristics of operation, so we still advise you to calibrate again. A step by step guide to this process is provided.
It is also necessary to take into account that interruptions in the operation of the transmission are not always associated with the need for calibration. Perhaps the whole thing just lies in the breakdown of certain components or parts. In this case, the setting of the unit may not be relevant, because if the same clutches are out of order, you cannot do anything but replace them.
To identify this, you will need to carry out a complete diagnosis of the vehicle or at least the gearbox.
- Car diagnostics is a simple procedure. You will need a laptop and a diagnostic adapter with a cable. The adapter must be connected to the laptop and the diagnostic connector via a cable.
- The laptop starts the procedure for checking the car using the appropriate software. The utility detects all existing malfunctions and displays certain combinations of characters on the computer screen.
- The resulting codes must be deciphered and then draw some conclusions. If any malfunctions are identified, then they must be eliminated in order to subsequently evaluate the operation of the unit. Perhaps it is diagnostics that will help you solve the problem.
It should also be noted that the incorrect operation of the CVT gearbox may also be associated with an incorrect level or poor-quality transmission fluid. You will need to check these two points. If deposits, dirt or metal chips are found in the oil, then this is very bad. If this is the case, then you will have to change the oil in any case so that the problem does not worsen. We hope our recommendations will help you solve the problem.
Video "Step-by-step instructions for calibrating a CVT"
For information on how to properly set up the gearbox in the parking lot, see the video.
Today we will talk about how to learn how to take care of your favorite Honda, and in particular the Airwave and Fit models. Unfortunately, these machines have a small drawback: a variator that is not self-calibrating. For many owners, this becomes a whole problem, since car services do not provide a service for calibrating the starting clutch. And if you are a lady, then such a nuisance will be very unexpected. So, if yours is on the road after braking and then starting off, the tachometer needle suddenly drops or tends to go up, or the battery terminal was removed or the engine was repaired and replaced, then you should think about a little manipulation with.
Calibration of the variator in the presence of a special device
- Install stops.
- Turn on the engine.
- There should be no variator malfunctions "D" -øƒƒ.
- Turn off the engine.
- Connect to the diagnostic socket using HDS (special device, sold in auto parts stores). To find the diagnostic connector, you need to remove the lower trim of the dashboard on the driver's side.
- Brake.
- Start the engine with no load and turn on the headlights, .
- Set the selector (simply the machine lever) N, then move to position D, S, L (stopping in each position), then return back to D and N. Carry out this operation twice up to 30 seconds.
If indicator D lights up for two minutes at position N and then goes out, then everything is fine and you can turn off the ignition. Otherwise, repeat operations. Then check the operation of the transmission in motion.
As a rule, ordinary motorists will not have a diagnostic device, in this case, replace it with an ordinary paper clip. The only difference is that you will not see, because the matter may not be in the variator.
You can try to calibrate the car in motion, although this is not a very effective way. So, you need to warm up the engine, turn on the headlights and the air conditioner, accelerate on a flat section of the road to 60 km / h, then slow down for 5-7 seconds without pressing the brake, up to a complete stop.
It must be said that it is not always possible to complete the calibration completely: the weather may interfere, the air conditioner is faulty or the candles have exhausted their resource, that is, it is impossible to fully “load” the car. Nevertheless, these manipulations will help the variator and make the movement of your car much smoother and more enjoyable. When buying a Honda brand car, remember that for cars after 2009, assembly with self-calibrating variator, with which there are much fewer problems.
Variator Honda. Cleaning the variator control unit.
A warning!
The operation, which will be discussed in this article, is actually quite complex, very responsible, and by no means “preventive”! Works, as well as materials used in the work, can harm the car if they are used incorrectly or insufficiently prepared. The prescription for such actions can be an unambiguous diagnosis of the problem with the variator, while eliminating all other problems with the engine (ignition systems, fuel supply, electrical circuit disturbances).
It is necessary to perform the operation, which will be discussed in this article, only in a warm, bright room and with the utmost care.
End of warning.
So today we are going to talk about cleaning. variator control unit at Honda. I would like to note right away that the article will contain instructions for first-generation, first- and second-type CVTs (cars, for example, Honda Civic EK3 and Honda Civic EU1). CVTs of the third type (Fit) and subsequent generations cannot be repaired, focusing on this article, since they have structural differences from the first two types.
A prerequisite for such an operation may be problems with the CVT of this kind, such as “swimming” of the tachometer revolutions, “kicks” when starting, “smeared” reaction of the box to the operation of the engine. At the same time, all other problems with the car related to ignition and other things must be eliminated without fail. Before removing the “brains” of the variator, it is necessary make sure exactly that the point is in him, and not, say, in bad high-voltage wires.
The "model" for today's article will be the car Civic EU1, which came to us with a clear problem with the operation of the variator. In one of our previous articles, we talked about how to change the special fluid in the variator. ⅔ of the actions from that article will have to be done this time. Before getting the “brain”, it will be necessary to drain the special fluid and remove the pan. If you have not changed your special fluid for a long time, there will be a great reason to do it now. We will accompany further actions with photographs with comments.
Slowly, carefully unscrew the long bolts securing the control unit to the pallet. Since the entire structure is aluminum, no excessive force can be applied. If something won't unscrew or detach, take your time and inspect everything carefully first.
Disconnect and unscrew the wire fastening. Attention! Remember the colors and location of the chips!
We take out the “brains” from the seat.
The landing site itself looks like this.
If you shine a light bulb, you can see the same variable speed belt.
Breaking down the brain into its component parts. This is a simple job, but it also requires extreme caution and accuracy - a lot of effort will break the knot rather than help. “Butchering” should take place in conditions as clean as possible, and it is best to use a clean waffle towel as a lining under the parts.
Parts are best laid out in the order of removal, so it will be easier to reassemble.
In our case, we used the tray as a bath for washing and wiping the elements. Simple and convenient, really.
Through all these channels, which look like a labyrinth, special fluid moves in the assembled unit. Of course, they will also need to be cleaned, but we are primarily interested in valves that bypass fluid in different directions. One of them is visible in the photo. It is, as it were, “under” the labyrinth and differs in color.
These valves are often the source of problems. The fact is that over time they wear out and begin to wedge in the channels in which they must move freely under their own weight. When these wedgings begin, the box begins to behave inappropriately, twitches, gives out an incorrect load on the engine, and so on. Our task is to take them out of their seats and, for starters, at least inspect and wipe them from possible dirt.
In order to remove the valve from the channel, you need to remove such a bracket. To extract it, we used a homemade awl with a long thin end and a ring instead of a handle.
After removing the bracket, ideally, the valve should fall out of the groove on its own. If it does not drop out, you need to help him.
If the valve was poorly removed and the cylinder walls are uneven (you can only determine by well lubricating the valve with HMMF and dropping it back) can neatly clean the cylinder thoroughly soaked in the same HMMF (CVTF) with sandpaper. ATTENTION! This operation requires minimal effort and time. Do not rub the sandpaper in the cylinder for a long time, or even with some effort. The gaps in this knot are counted by microns, so sandpaper is needed only in order to remove possible inclusions of harder particles from the surface of the cylinder. This operation itself incorrect, therefore, only unambiguous wear of the variator can be a prescription for it. Carrying out this operation on a working variator for “prevention” is UNACCEPTABLE.
The piston itself may also have a wear, such as in this photo. The elimination method is the same. The warnings are the same as in the previous case.
On the block with solenoids (solenoid valves) there are also ordinary valves, which must be movable. The logic is simple - if the valve is movable in its cylinder, we do not touch it, - if its mobility is in doubt, we take it out and clean it. In our case, four out of eight valves on large parts and one on blocks with solenoids underwent cleaning.
After cleaning the valves, the labyrinth platforms themselves are thoroughly washed with a carbo cleaner to remove all kinds of micro-pollution. Note the small metal meshes in the large platforms. They contain a lot of dirt, so they must also be meticulously washed. Now you can start reassembly.
The metal plate between the two blocks, before installation, must be thoroughly washed from dirt (there is a lot of it on it), and immersed in HMMF in order to have an oil film on both sides.
We assemble in the reverse order.
The main thing is not to rush, carefully choosing the sequence of parts. It's hard enough to go wrong. Bolts must be tightened carefully. Do not forget that all parts are aluminum.
The hoisting of the entire structure into place is carried out in the reverse order shown in the first four photographs.
As a conclusion, it can be noted that the question of cleaning or brainwashing the Honda CVT is raised on the Internet quite often, but few people know HOW it is done, and even fewer people suggest how to do it CORRECTLY. The purpose of our story was to demonstrate the process. Doing it yourself is recommended only to experienced mechanics who understand the full responsibility of this event. The price of a mistake is high - the variator itself.
If you think that your car needs such an operation, first consult with the masters, and be sure to make sure that the problems of your car stem from the variator, and not from other components. Otherwise, such a repair can only do harm.
Those who are willing to take the risk and try to repair the assembly themselves can use this material as some kind of instruction on how to proceed. But, to be completely honest, it is better to entrust this complex operation to professionals.
P.S. After dismantling the "brains of the variator" in his own car.
Firstly, the operation is really not for the faint of heart and scattered. It is difficult to confuse the structural elements, but it is possible if you are distracted halfway through for at least a minute. The valves in the variators of the first type are not steel, but some kind of titanium, or something similar. Some of the valves in my car (Honda Capa) were stuck to death and had to be taken apart and cleaned.
Secondly. When connecting the wires, I made a mistake, and attached them incorrectly. Because of this, the box gave errors 31 and 33 (main line solenoid and emergency mode solenoid). I had to remove and install the brains several times before the cause of the problem was discovered. For those who will repeat, on the one hand, a single wire goes to the small solenoid, with another, - the wire with the green winding must be on the lower solenoid!
Thirdly. The box after repair requires calibration. It can be done with a special scanner, but, as they say, for lack of a better one, you can try to do it on the go. I had to do exactly the second scenario. The essence of calibration is as follows − fully warmed up car, is driven out onto a flat straight road, parked, then switches to D and accelerates to 60 km / h (I managed to do this on the third attempt, because the car just stalled on the go twice), and 60 km / h gas is released sharply so that the car coasts. At the same time, there must be disabled all energy consumers(stove, light, music, heating-heating, etc.). In winter, doing all this is extremely indigestible (especially at a temperature of -36 in Novosibirsk), but there was not much choice. Coasting must occur at least 6-7 seconds! Do not press the gas or brake at this moment! After that, the car can try to press the gas. If a kick occurs, the calibration is repeated.
Fourth. Yesterday's first trip was very hard - the car stalled, went into emergency mode several times with blinking D and blocking the box. The second trip was already better. The third, the way home, is even better. The car no longer stalled and did not try, it accelerated confidently to 70 (it was scary to accelerate further, since there was a high probability of sending the box into emergency mode at this speed), although there were spreading kicks when the gas was released and pressed again, almost every time it was pressed. This morning, on the way to work, the situation improved even more, there were fewer kicks, and acceleration and maneuvers by car began to seem safe already at 80-85 without trying to go into emergency mode. Climbing a steep hill also did not cause any problems (and yesterday, during the first climb uphill, according to the law of meanness, the box went into emergency mode right on the tram tracks, and before I figured out that I needed to “reboot” (turn off and on the ignition) passengers on two trams pushed me off the rails.
