First you need to figure out why, in principle, a silent block is needed? In ordinary language, this is an “intermediary” between a rigid body and a suspension, by the way, the suspension includes not only a subframe and a lever, but also a spring (depending on the model), a stabilizer, struts and the like. That is, you must understand that if you connect the metal elements directly, then you will hear about all the bumps in the cabin. Therefore, such “intermediaries” are used to avoid both the wear of other parts and excessive noise in the cabin. The first is the most important nuance.

Device - what does the silent block consist of?

In simple terms, this is a classic cylinder into which a rubber “gasket” is inserted, there are also polyurethane ones, but more on that later. Also in the design there is such an element as a sleeve.

The sleeve ensures the safety of the rubber elements during operation, prolonging the life of the element.

That is, from the foregoing, it is not difficult to understand that all the pits and bumps that are present on our roads, the suspension works out much softer, precisely thanks to the rubber inserts.

Types of silent blocks

A car owner who has ever wondered about replacing these suspension components knows perfectly well that there are two main types of silent blocks. So:

1. Rubber is traditionally made on the basis of rubber, but they have a huge list of disadvantages:

Low resource;
- do not tolerate environmental influences (weather conditions, reagents);
- an unpleasant sound even with new parts.

There is also a variety of rubber silent blocks, when the “gasket” itself is made not solid, but composite. According to experts, such a device is more reliable and the suspension experiences fewer shocks.

Silent block ss20 for VAZ

2. Polyurethane is much more efficient than their younger "colleagues". The benefits include:

Better absorption, shocks;
- improves the behavior of the car as a whole;
- more durable.

The only drawback, according to motorists, is their cost. But, as they say, a miser pays twice.

Resource

Many people ask this question, but what is the real life of silent blocks? It is impossible to fully answer this question, because everyone has different conditions and driving style, and as you understand, this is almost a fundamental nuance when using such elements. Yes, and the 80,000 - 100,000 km declared by most manufacturers, mileage in domestic realities, look simply ridiculous. In fact, a completely different picture is obtained, the service life rarely exceeds 40,000-50,000 km, and this is taking into account the good quality of the roads.

Also, don't forget that city cars require more frequent part replacement. The reason lies in the use of reagents in cities, as already mentioned above, they make an important contribution to the service life.

Separately, it is worth clarifying about the climate, for example, for the northern regions of the country, polyurethane silent blocks are not suitable, unless, of course, the car will stand in the garage in the cold. According to most manufacturers, the recommended temperature for using polyurethane, in particular for suspension, is not lower than 20-25 degrees.

If resource of elements is exhausted, remember that this entails problems of a different nature, including:

A noticeable decrease in vehicle handling, especially on suburban road sections. There is a steady understanding that the car is heeling, a backlash appears, which is perfectly audible when entering a turn. This is caused by the fact that silent blocks no longer work out bumps and pits, and all coating errors fall directly on metal units.

Do not forget also that worn elements seriously affect the wear of the tire tread.

Destruction of levers in the attachment points.

What can break in the silent block and what are the reasons for the failure?

As a rule, metal fragments break extremely rarely. Therefore, if you notice even a slight knock, creak, you should immediately take action for repair, so as not to subsequently “get” into a major repair with the replacement of levers. Often, not timely replacement of silent blocks leads to breakage of the levers at the attachment points. What can cause wear?

1. Oddly enough, incorrect initial tightening of the bolts can lead to failure. A beginner, and even an experienced master, should remember that any bolt securing the silent block is tightened after the car is lowered from the lift, so to speak, “live”.

Unfortunately, but a huge part of the services pays little attention to this fact and puffs on weight. And when the car then lowers and the suspension takes on the entire mass of the car, the rubber twists, as a result of which the silent block plane itself is distributed unevenly. Accordingly, failure in this case will be much earlier, and the rubber will tear precisely at the twisting points. Therefore, it is recommended to be present during the replacement of these elements and point out some rules to the so-called "masters" or choose a good service.

2. Violation when installing parts in the "nests" themselves. Do not forget that some manufacturers even mark which side to insert the part. Many people neglect this rule, which also brings the end of the service closer.

3. Significantly exceeded the period of use. As a rule, this occurs only among negligent car owners who do not follow their "iron horse". Rubber simply dries out with age, cracks and subsequently breaks from exposure.

Therefore, when buying from hand, pay attention not only to the transmission.

4. Few people pay attention to the fact that in urban driving conditions, when a huge amount of reagents are poured onto the asphalt, it is the “chemistry” that causes destruction, especially rubber “eggs”.

By the way, few people know, but a simple car oil, with which some lubricate rubber bands, does not help extend the service life, but, on the contrary, only leads to the impossibility of application.

Every motorist knows that in order to stop a vehicle, it is necessary to depress the brake pedal. But, sometimes, it happens that when braking, the car begins to lose its directional stability, and it steadily begins to lead to one side of the road.

The first, and most common reason, is the failure of the rubber-metal hinges, or silent blocks. As a rule, torsionally working silent blocks are very reliable, and rarely break. An exception is a factory marriage. The silent block is a monolithic hinge, inside and outside of which there are metal bushings.

Also, silent blocks can be destroyed as a result of careless driving, frequent overcoming of obstacles, in the form of railway crossings or road potholes. In case of failure of silent blocks, the installation angles of the wheels are violated. When driving in the area of ​​​​the wheels appears.

Cosmetic repairs and adjustments, as a rule, do not lead to tangible results, since the suspension needs a major overhaul. At first, the car starts to work adequately, but at the first, the angle of adjustment of its wheels is immediately violated.

The levers turn out, the wheels move apart, and the car loses directional stability. The suspension of a Kia Sorento car needs to be checked periodically, and when it appears, first of all, you should pay attention to the hinges. Before overcoming obstacles, to extend the life of the suspension joints, experts recommend releasing the brake pedal. This action will allow the unbraked suspension to endure impacts with less damage.

Replacement and diagnostics of silent blocks on a car is included in the list of services provided by the AutoPride service station. When is the time to replace silent blocks, and how to do it yourself?

The secrets of auto-mastery and all the installation steps are in our article.

How to check silent blocks for wear and defects - diagnostics

Regular maintenance of your vehicle is a necessary condition (as all drivers know) for safety on the road.

To a large extent, this applies to the chassis and suspension of the car, its components and individual parts.

One of the elements (seemingly insignificant, but extremely important) is silent block, which is 2 metal bushings with a rubber insert in the center.

This element connects the suspension parts - and, thanks to the elastic (polyurethane or rubber) insert - dampens vibrations transmitted from one node to another. It is on it that the most powerful loads are used: the silent block is designed to “keep the blow” received by the suspension of the vehicle.

Where is the silent block located?

Mostly this element is installed in the front and rear suspensions of the vehicle.

In addition, the item is used as a fixing element for gearbox, for shock absorbers and engine.

Naturally, each such shock absorber requires regular monitoring.

Replacing silent blocks: how to determine that the moment has come?

As a rule, the service life of the silent block is about 100,000 km. But given the state of the Russian "off-road", it is recommended to inspect the elements every 50,000 km.

The reason for contacting the service station in this case are the following "symptoms" ...

• Poor vehicle handling.
• “Locked” steering response to a turn.
• Cracks and breaks on the rubber part of the element during visual inspection on the "pit".
• Curve collapse / convergence (suddenly discovered).
• Excessive amount of play in the element.
• Uneven tire wear (which speaks eloquently of the problems of wheel alignment and, accordingly, the suspension).

Repair or wait?

Strong wear of silent blocks threatens that the car will suddenly “drive” at speed. Even in the summer, this can cause an accident, not to mention the winter. Therefore, the replacement of elements is required.

It is also worth noting that in the event of the destruction of the mounting seats of the hinges themselves, it will be necessary replacement front/suspension arm assembly. This is why early diagnosis is so important.

Diagnosis - how to identify a problem or make sure that it does not exist?

1. We drive into the "pit" or raise the vehicle with a jack.
2. Remove ball joints.
3. We check the details, the work of which is connected with the silent block. We swing the suspension arm to the sides: you need to make sure that it does not “fall”. The lever should spring back to its natural position (if it is working).
4. Checking the bushing. It should not be observed to rotate relative to the eyes.
5. We check the silent block directly: for knocking inside the element, as well as for visible mechanical damage and cracks (approx. - on rubber and metal).
6. We check if there is any backlash. Its presence is a signal for an urgent replacement of the element.

Replacing silent blocks on a car - step by step instructions

To replace the silent blocks should be prepared.

You can’t do without a jack or pit, a kit for replacing parts and a tool needed to press out the silent block.

1. The vehicle is installed on a "pit" (viewing) and the crankcase protection is dismantled, if any.
2. We unscrew the nuts that serve to fix the front levers. We unscrew the nut with the key No. 17, with which the stabilizer is attached to the lever, and take out the bolt with a hammer (it is very difficult to remove manually).
3. We tear off the bolts for fastening the front / wheel and raise the side of the vehicle we need with a jack, after which we remove the wheel.
4. Next comes the unscrewing of the following nuts - on braces. Here you can not do without a key with a shoulder. Note: before unscrewing, the nuts should be treated with VD-40 (a known substance to all motorists).
5. After - the ball joint, which is moved away from the rotary / cam, and a couple more bolts, after unscrewing which the lever is dismantled.
6. Now, with the help of a special tool, the silent blocks are dismantled, and the eyes are cleaned of dirt.
7. Next - pressing in new elements. In the absence of a special / set, a hammer, a chisel and Russian ingenuity are used to replace them. But there is a risk of damage to the element or part of it.
8. Further, the pressed silent block is lubricated with soapy water and installed in its rightful place. We return everything to its place, but in the reverse order (except for the old silent blocks, of course).

Important!

After replacing the silent blocks, the collapse / convergence procedure is carried out without fail in case something was violated during dismantling.

Of course, if you have talents and minimal knowledge of the car device, you can independently replace the above elements.

But at the slightest doubt, entrust this time-consuming procedure to specialists (self-replacement of silent blocks cost a pretty penny to craftsmen more than once). AND do not delay a visit to the service station– safety is more expensive!

With the replacement of silent blocks, they will help you in where professionals with many years of experience, high-quality modern equipment and affordable prices are waiting for you.

Video instructions for replacing silent blocks on a car

Driving a car on domestic roads entails a number of surprises, which eventually result in various running gear malfunctions car parts and suspension. The undercarriage of the car consists of components and parts that provide good handling, safety and comfort while driving. In the event of a malfunction of at least one component, a violation occurs in the operation of the chassis, which leads to various knocks and problems with the controllability of the car. Therefore, when the first signs of suspension malfunctions are detected, it should be carried out immediately.

I would like to note that malfunctions of the chassis can appear both suddenly, for example, after a car gets into a pit, or for some time. A characteristic knock may indicate the imminent release of a unit or part, which may intensify over time, and there may also be problems with driving a car.

How to determine the malfunction of the chassis and suspension of the car

If the vehicle pulls to the right or left while driving

The wheel alignment is broken or the tires are different. Also, this behavior of the car often causes unequal. If, after checking and eliminating the above reasons, the car still goes to the side, in this case the situation is complicated by the fact that one of the suspension parts and even deformation of the car body can be a problem. In any case, a complete diagnosis of the chassis will be necessary to identify the problem.

Possible problems with the chassis or suspension of the car

• The front suspension arms are deformed;
• Damaged upper shock absorber support;
• The stiffness of the springs of the racks is different;
• The stabilizer bar has failed;
• Problems with the brake mechanism of the wheels. The wheel is not completely released;
• Wheel bearing damaged or severely clamped;
• The parallelism of the front and rear axles is broken;

If the vehicle sways when cornering or braking

• Defective or out of order suspension struts (shock absorbers) or vehicle springs;
• Worn stabilizer bar bushings;

Vibration in chassis while driving

• Uneven or low tire pressure;
• Worn or pinched wheel bearings;
• The steering joints are worn;
• Loose wheel nuts
• Missing or incorrect wheel balancing;
• Damaged or deformed wheel disk;

Knocks and noises of the suspension while driving

• Weakened mounting racks or bars of anti-roll bars;
• Does not work, which means the shock absorber is out of order;
• Worn ball joints and steering tips;
• Damaged or out of order elements;
• Worn silent blocks of levers;
• Damaged or broken strut spring;

If the suspension breaks

• Disk or tire deformation;
• Inadmissible clearance in the wheel bearing;
• Non-working shock absorber, broken strut spring or damaged spring;
• Violation of the geometry (deformation) of the suspension arms, the steering knuckle and the axis of the suspension arms;

If shock absorbers knock

• Deterioration of bushings of fastening of shock-absorbers;
• Shock absorber drip (a sign of its imminent failure);
• Worn shock absorber support;
• Weakening of the shock absorber to the vehicle suspension;
• Wheels wear unevenly;
• Not correct;
• broken;
• The brake system of the car is not working properly;
• Deformed suspension arm;
• The geometry of the car body is broken;

If there is a creak when cornering while braking

• Shock absorbers failed
• Broken stabilizer bar bushings;

And in the continuation of the material on the chassis and suspension of the car, watch the video

The silent blocks of the front levers perform a very important function - they dampen vibrations. These parts often fail, because they are subject to incredible loads, and they, in turn, must withstand all deformations. How to replace them in case of breakage?

What is the suspension arm bushing used for?

These parts are two metal bushings (inner and outer), and between them there is a rubber insert, which is most often made of polyurethane, so sometimes you can find such a thing as "polyurethane silent block". It is this insert that plays the most important role. The silent block of the suspension arm connects its elements In addition, such parts have found their wide application for mounting, and shock absorbers, and even the engine.

It is quite difficult to underestimate their role in the car, so you need to monitor their condition. In general, manufacturers usually give a guarantee for as much as one hundred thousand kilometers, but given the “wonderful” condition of our roads, you should not be guided by this figure, it is better to carry out a visual inspection after at least 50 thousand. Moreover, you can evaluate the condition of the rear silent blocks of the front levers on your own at home.

How to check the silent blocks of the front levers?

It is impossible for the rubber to peel off or swell from under the washers, its surface must be smooth, without cracks, and large play is also unacceptable, since the result of these malfunctions may be the destruction of the hinge seats, in which case it will be necessary to replace everything, and not individual parts . You can understand that the silent block of the front lower arm is out of order by uneven tire wear. It is possible that the car will also throw from side to side at speed, and this already poses an immediate danger to all road users.

Replacing the rear silent block of the front lever, of course, requires attention and accuracy, it would be nice to have some skills in this area. But, in principle, if there were no special problems with the mechanics, then it is quite possible to carry out the operation yourself and not go to expensive service stations. Of course, it’s worth starting with diagnosing the problem, for this it is necessary to hang both suspensions in turn with a jack and dismantle the wheels. If defects are found on their surface, then there is a direct road to a specialized store for new parts.

The biggest difficulty may arise with how to press the silent block into the lever, but this issue is completely solved.

Replacing the silent block of the front lever - how to do it right?

Now, in order about how the replacement process goes. First of all, you need to jack up your “iron horse” and remove the wheel. Next, you need to find on the front lever the bolt that secures the front silent block, and unscrew it. We also unscrew the fixing nut of the rear silent block. Now we pull the rack along with the lever; pulling it out, unscrew the bolts securing the lever to the ball joint and dismantle it. Next, you can proceed directly to the replacement, for this you should press out the rear silent block of the front lever with a small sledgehammer.

In order to press in a new part, you can also use a special device for replacing silent blocks, however, this does not mean that you need to immediately run to the store and purchase it, since in this case a hammer or a sledgehammer will again be a faithful assistant. Strictly in the reverse order, we assemble the lever. Next, we put in place all the dismantled elements of the car, while keeping in mind that the front silent block can only be tightened on a car removed from the jack. And in the end, do not forget to restore the wheel alignment.