An experienced driver is able to determine the presence of problems in his car by its behavior or sound.

Shaking the car during acceleration or at a specific speed is a sign of a serious problem. Service station workers assure that in 9 out of 10 cases the cause vibration body or steering wheel runout are wheels.

Reasons for the emergence of vibrations in the wheels may be different, but you should not delay with their elimination, otherwise more serious problems will soon arise.

Chassis and wheels

If you felt vibration that has arisen from the bottom of the car, keep in mind that there can be at least two reasons.

1 - wheels

2 - running gear.

In the first case, you will be able to diagnose the problem yourself. The most common and stupid reason that negatively affects your safety is not fully tightened bolts for mounting disk wheels. Tighten them as quickly as possible, and the problem is solved.

Also the culprits of the appearance of bad vibrations in the wheels I can be:

• wheel imbalance, which may appear after falling into a pit, poorly done balancing, long parking on a flat tire, etc.
• mud or snow accumulated on the rim. One way or another, they also have weight and may well give vibration.
• geometry violation disk or tire.

But much more often there are more serious problems.

The cause of vibration of the wheels or the body can be:

• Poor fixation of the brake disc;
• Bending of the drive shaft of the wheel;
• Bearing damage;
• CV joint damage.

It is the problem with CV joints that occurs most often. To independently check their serviceability, you need to raise the car with a jack and turn the wheel. If you hear extraneous sounds like clicks or a crunch, then most likely it's time to change the CV joint. If, in addition, there is a play exceeding 2 mm, then the replacement of the CV joint is mandatory. It is also necessary to check if dust, dirt or water has entered the CV joint. After that, the bodywork should disappear.

Additionally, it does not interfere with inspecting the anthers for gaps in their rubber part.

Wheel alignment and tire quality

Appearance vibration may also be due to incorrect wheel alignment. In this case, the vehicle may pull to the side and the wear of the rubber becomes uneven, which will lead to the costs associated with its replacement.

You can troubleshoot these issues in a variety of ways.

First you need to adjust the installation angle wheels with the help of collapse-convergence. It may turn out that the disk itself is damaged due to a strong impact. After replacement or repair vibration will disappear.

Do not forget that after all these procedures, wheel balancing is necessary. Unfortunately, many motorists neglect it.

The above breakdowns are classified as easily repairable and inexpensive, so it is worth starting the diagnosis with their identification.

If this does not help, and continues, we deal with the problem further.

Engine mounts, traction and other problems

If you feel strong, accelerate the car a little more than usual. If in the process of increasing turnover vibration increases, then its cause may be a breakdown of one of the engine mounts.

Also cause wheel vibration could be a gearbox failure. If the car starts to shake more at a speed of 80 km / h or more, then try to diagnose the presence or absence of this problem as follows:

• Accelerate the car up to 85 km/h;
• Depress the clutch pedal and listen for vibration sounds;
• Engage third gear and gently release the clutch, not forgetting the gas pedal.

If during these steps wheel vibration not gone, the box has nothing to do with the problem. And it’s good, because its replacement or repair is quite expensive.

If the shaking becomes stronger, then you will need to check the involvement of the box in the problems with professionals at the service station.

For automatic transmissions, you can check the box in the same way. Only instead of third gear and clutch, switch modes in the following sequence: 3, 2, D, N and listen to the vibration sounds.

If, in the course of the independent actions taken, it was not possible to identify the problem, and it continues, specialized help from professionals will be required.

It is not worth saving, because even the smallest breakdown can lead to serious consequences and costly repairs. And above all, do not forget about your safety and the safety of your passengers.

Results

If the problem could not be detected, and during acceleration, the presence of vibration of the body or the steering wheel of the car is still noted, then there is only one way out - contact a specialist. This problem should not remain, as it can cause more complex breakdowns or a dangerous situation for the driver and passengers of the car while driving on the road. It is necessary to respond as quickly as possible to all possible problems in order to eliminate them by replacing the elements of the machine that are out of order.

And the specialists of the company "Shinomontazhnikof" are ready to come to your aid at any time of the day and as quickly as possible to fix the problem right at the site of your car breakdown. All the necessary equipment is always with you.

The company "Shinomontazhnikof": quality and affordable prices 24/7!

The engine rotates the axle shafts or drive shafts, causing the tires to rotate. This means that the tires are part of the drive chain. At the same time, the tires change the direction of the car with the help of the steering mechanism. Therefore, tires are part of the steering system. In addition, since tires carry the weight of the vehicle and absorb shocks from the road surface, they are part of the suspension system. For these reasons, when troubleshooting tires, all three systems must be kept in mind - tires and wheels, steering and suspension. It must be remembered that improper tire handling and maintenance can also lead to defects in tires and interconnected systems. Therefore, the first step in finding and repairing tire defects is to check that the tires are being used and maintained correctly.

1. UNUSUAL TIRE WEAR

WEAR OF THE SHOULDERS OR TIRE MIDDLE Tread

The main cause of wear on the "shoulder" areas or the middle part of the tread of a tire is improper air pressure in the tires. If the tire pressure is too low, the middle part of the tire tread will be concave, which will shift the load on the "shoulders" and cause them to wear faster than in comparison. with middle part. Overloading tires has a similar effect.

If, on the other hand, the air pressure in the tires is too high, the middle part of the tire tread becomes convex, bearing more load and wearing out faster than the “shoulders”.

ATTENTION!

1. Tread wear of radial tires is less dependent on tire pressure. On most vehicles, the front tires have increased shoulder wear.

2. Rear radial tires on most rigid axle vehicles wear similar to tires with high air pressure.

1. Corner wear shown below is caused by turning at high speed. The tire slips, causing diagonal wear.

This is one of the most common cases of tire wear. The only way to eliminate it is to reduce the speed of the driver when turning.

2. Deformation or play in the suspension parts disturbs the alignment of the front wheels, causing abnormal tire wear.

3. If one side of the tire tread wears faster than the other, the main reason is probably incorrect camber. Because the tire's contact area with the road changes with load, a positive camber tire has a smaller diameter on the outside than on the inside. Therefore, the outer side of the tread must slide on the road surface to cover the same distance as the inner side of the tread. This slip causes excessive wear on the outside of the tread. A negative camber tire, on the other hand, wears out faster on the inside of the tread.

WEAR CAUSED BY TOE OR BACKTOE (Tread Sawtooth)

The main cause of wear with the formation of ridges or lateral sawtooth of the tire tread is incorrect toe-in adjustment. Excessive toe-in causes the tire to slip outward and pushes the tread contact surface inward along the road surface, causing wear. The surface takes on a ridge-like shape, as shown in the figure below, which can be felt as the finger moves across the tread from the inside to the outside. Direction of travel

Excessive back-toe, on the other hand, causes the tire to slip inward and move outward the contact surface of the tire tread on the road surface, causing the wear shown in the figure below.

ATTENTION!

If this type of wear is observed on both sides, the front wheel toe-in is out of alignment. If only one tire has this wear, the knuckle arm may be bent. In this case, the installation of one wheel becomes such as with excessive convergence or excessive reverse convergence of the wheels.

LONGITUDINAL SAW WEAR

Sawtooth wear is a partial wear that often occurs on tires with spur and block tread patterns. The blocks of a tire's tread wear diagonally like the heel of a boot, and eventually take on a sawtooth shape.

If the car is frequently driven on paved roads, the tires wear out quickly. This is because the blocks instantly slide up when they leave the road surface as the tire rotates (because the road surface is hard and the blocks cannot embed). For this reason, the part of the blocks that is the last to leave the road surface is subjected to more wear.

Tires with ribbed tread patterns wear in waves.

Since the tires of the non-driven wheels are not affected by the driving force, but only take up the braking force, they wear out in a sawtooth fashion. This type of wear is similar to what would occur with alternating braking and releasing, causing the tires to slide a short distance each time.

On the other hand, on the drive tyres, the wear caused by the driving force shows up in the opposite direction to that caused by braking, so there is less sawtooth wear. Truck and bus tires, however, generate high braking friction, so studded tires have sawtooth wear similar to non-driven wheels.

PATCHED WEAR (CUPPING)

Patchy wear is characterized by cup-shaped depressions in one or more areas of the tire tread and occurs when the vehicle is driven at high speed. This type of wear occurs due to tire tread slippage at regular intervals, as explained below.

If wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. have a lot of play, or if the wheel trunnion is bent, the tire will oscillate at certain points when it is rotated at high speed, causing a lot of friction and sliding in these places, resulting in patchy tire wear.

A deformed or unevenly worn brake drum causes the brakes to apply at regular intervals, resulting in patchy wear over a relatively wide area around the circumference of the tire.

ATTENTION!

A cloth patch applied to a tire tread during a puncture repair or a protrusion formed by delamination also results in patchy wear.

Harsh starting, braking and cornering can also cause patchy wear.

An excessively unbalanced wheel assembly also causes patchy wear.

2. VIBRATION AND RUNNING OF TIRES

Vibration problems are categorized as body shaking, steering shaking, and steering wheel shimmy.

BODY SHAKING

Shaking is defined as vertical or lateral vibration of the car body and steering wheel along with seat vibration. The main causes of shaking are unbalanced wheel assemblies, excessive wheel runout and non-uniform tire stiffness, so fixing these problems eliminates shaking.

Shaking is usually not felt at speeds below 80 km/h. Above this speed, the shaking increases markedly and peaks at a certain speed. If shaking occurs at speeds between 40 and 60 km/h, the cause is usually excessive runout of the wheel assembly or uneven tire stiffness.

REFERENCE

The shaking is similar to the vibration generated by a washing machine in the rapid cycle of the drum while removing water, or similar to the vibration produced by an impact wrench when tightening bolts, etc.

''SHIMMY'' and STEERING SHUTTER

"Shimmy" is determined by the vibration of the steering wheel in the direction of rotation of the steering wheel. The main causes of "shimmy" are unbalanced wheel assemblies, excessive runout and / or uneven tire stiffness, so the elimination of these causes usually excludes "shimmy". Other possible causes include defects in the steering drive, excessive play in the suspension system and incorrect wheel alignment There are two types of "shimmy": a steady vibration that occurs at relatively low speeds (20 - 60 km/h) and a vibration (called "judder") that occurs at certain speeds above 80 km/h.

REFERENCE

"Shimmy" and shaking is similar to the vibration produced by a washing machine during a fast spin cycle.

TROUBLESHOOTING PROCEDURE

1. Discussion of manifestations of malfunctions

Before making a decision on any vibration complaint, it is advisable to first discuss the nature of the problem with the vehicle driver.

Determine the speed range in which the vibration occurs and find what circumstances contribute to the vibration; for example, does it show up through the steering wheel, does the seat shake, does the rear view mirror vibrate, or does it vibrate even after servicing the vehicle and balancing the tires?

2. Test drive for diagnosis

Road test the vehicle whenever possible to verify the explanation for the customer's complaint. The road test route should be on well-surfaced roads so that the required speed can be maintained. Drive a few kilometers to warm up the tires to normal operating temperature to avoid flat spots after parking, then note the symptoms previously described by the driver (eg type of vibration, critical speed, etc.). If maximum vibration occurs, coast the vehicle at this speed to see if the vibration remains or disappears.

If there is no vibration when coasting at critical speed, engine vibration may be the cause.

If the vibration persists when the vehicle is coasting, drive at a critical speed on a level road while lightly holding the steering wheel and turning the steering wheel slightly to the left and right. If no vibration is felt at the steering wheel, but vibration is felt through the body, floor, or seats, the power train or rear tires are likely the cause.

3. Checking the alignment of the wheel on the hub

1) Check the accuracy of centering the wheel on the hub. Check clearance all around. It must not exceed the specified value.

Set value 0.1 mm maximum.

2) Correct the centering accuracy of the wheel on the hub.

(a) Reposition the wheel on the hub and set it to the position with the smallest clearance difference.

(b) If there is no reduction in the gap difference even after changing the installation position, check the hub runout and judge whether the wheel is good or bad.

ATTENTION!

After adjustment, put centering marks on the hub and wheel and install the wheel on the hub according to these marks.

4. Checking wheel runout assembly

5. Wheel runout check

6. Checking hub runout

Setpoints:

Radial runout... 0.05 mm no more

Lateral runout ....... 0.05 mm no more

7. Tire runout correction

8. Checking the balance of wheels removed from the car

Try to perform static and dynamic balancing to within 0 grams.

Use a wheel balance weight suitable for the wheel and fasten it securely so that it does not fall out while riding.

9. Re-correction of tire runout

1) Check tire runout.

(a) Install the tire on the car according to the marks

(b) Measure the tire radial runout with a dial gauge.

2) Correct tire runout.

(a) Temporarily install the wheel nuts (finger tight) and turn the tire so that the area with the most radial runout is at the bottom.

(b) Lower the vehicle until the tire touches the floor and tighten the wheel nuts evenly with a wrench. (Mark the position of the wheel on the hub after fine adjustment of the centering gap). Avoid using an impact wrench.

(c) Re-measure the vertical runout of the tire and confirm the result.

10. Checking the balance on the car

Carry out the check in accordance with the instructions for the wheel balancer.

Before checking the wheel balance on the vehicle, always check and adjust the balance of the wheels removed from the vehicle.

Check with wheel cap, valve cap, trim cap and magnetic lock nut attached.

For vehicles with permanent four-wheel drive, refer to the appropriate workshop manual.

When checking the balance of the drive wheel, rotate the wheel with the engine, gradually increasing the number of revolutions.

11. Wheel alignment check

3. HARD RIDING

1. Increased air pressure in tires increases tire stiffness. If it is too high, the tire is unable to absorb the shocks from the road surface, resulting in a rough ride.

4. HEAVY STEERING

1. Tire pressure that is too low makes the tread contact area wider, increasing the resistance between the tire and the road surface and therefore making the vehicle's steering response slow to the steering wheel.

5. DURING NORMAL DRIVING THE VEHICLE DRIVES IN ONE WAY

This means that the car tends to go to one side while the driver tries to keep it in a straight line - this is most often the case when there is a big difference in rolling resistance between the left and right tires or in the moments of forces acting relative to left and right axis of rotation.

1. If the outer diameters of the right and left tires are different, the distance traveled by each tire in one revolution will be different. For this reason, the car will tend to turn right or left.

2. If the air pressure in the right and left tires is different, the rolling resistance of the tires will be different and the car will drift left or right.

3. The vehicle will also steer to the left or right if the toe or back toe is excessive or there is a large difference in caster or camber between the left and right wheels.

Unbalance and runout of alloy wheels

In the manufacture of alloy wheels, there are many features that affect the imbalance. If for checking on a balancing machine to determine a defect according to the Russian standard (GOST R 50511-93) there is no acceptable imbalance value, then in practice we support the internal standards of wheel rim manufacturers. These enterprises are suppliers of disks to conveyors of world and Russian car manufacturers, and their internal standard can be applied to disks supplied to our automotive market. In order to avoid the imbalance situation, our company has decided to inform the buyers of the imbalance limits.

There are several types of runout: radial and axial. Radial runout is the deviation of the center relative to the base axis. The radial runout of the disc should not exceed (0.7mm). Axial runout is the beating of the disk along the axis (figure eight). The axial runout of the disc should not exceed (1mm).

If an unacceptable runout of a new disc is detected, an act on a factory defect is drawn up, and the disc is returned to the manufacturer for inspection and replacement with a disc of good quality in accordance with the Russian standard GOST R 50511-93.3. In this case, the buyer does not bear any costs for replacement with a disk of proper quality.

Also, during the operation of tires and disks, such moments appear when external factors affect the beating of the steering wheel. This sticking to the inner part of the disk (dirt and ice), the steering wheel beating appears at a speed (from 80 to 120 km / h), which is eliminated by washing the wheel and subsequent rebalancing.

Also, the deformation of the disk and tire affects the balance, as a result of jamming of the disk and the appearance of a hernia on the tire, an imbalance of the entire wheel occurs and discomfort when driving.

An imbalance can also be such a factor as incomplete fit of the tire to the disk during installation and subsequent incorrect balancing, this is due to the low qualification of tire mangers. To properly seat the tire on the rim, a special mounting paste must be used and for a full fit of the bead ring of the tire to the rim of the rim, excess pressure in the tire during installation, as well as a special tool for mounting a low-profile tire or a tire with a reinforced sidewall (RunFlat), is required. As a rule, low-skilled workers work in a conventional (roadside) tire and a good quality of work can not be expected, therefore we recommend contacting trusted or well-known tires with qualified workers, because many employees of the tire are not even aware of the elementary designations on the tire such as outside (outer side of the tire) and inside (inner side of the tire), as well as color markings (red, yellow, green and white) on the bead, which are indicated by the manufacturer for ease of mounting and balancing, for example (yellow) dot indicates the easiest place in the tire and it must be combined with the valve in the disk for better optimization, and the red dot indicates the heaviest place in the tire and it must be placed opposite the valve in the disk, also the most experienced C/M workers do optimization by scrolling the tire on the disk to reduce imbalance.

Also, wheel runout can be influenced by such a factor as incorrect selection of a disk for a particular car, for example, a mismatch between the central hole of the disk to your car, which will lead to a displacement of the disk on the vehicle axis, which will lead to steering wheel beating, as well as unscrewing the fasteners of the disk on vehicle, which could result in an ACCIDENT. Here we have given only a small part of what can affect the imbalance and runout of alloy wheels, but our managers will help you in a qualified selection and solving problems with emerging issues.

The problem of wheel balancing arose with the advent of the first cars. At low speeds and bad roads, it almost remained invisible. The situation has changed dramatically over time. Therefore, its relevance has increased dramatically.

Often, drivers observe signs of wheel imbalance. As a result, there is a beating of the steering wheel. Wheel disc runout caused by the displacement of its landing shelves during rotation. The displacement is twofold: parallel to the radius or axis of rotation of the disk. In the first case, there is radial, in the second - axial runout.

Wheel runout can be checked using a special indicator. It is pressed against the surface of the spinning wheel. The device registers the displacement of the wheel in the radial or axial direction. Readings are taken in millimeters. The amount of wheel runout cannot be visually assessed. The measurement accuracy of the indicator is not less than 0.05 mm.

Wheel runout associated with static imbalance. The disc takes an egg-like shape. The wheel oscillates up and down. The rotation of such a wheel is accompanied by the presence of a variable torque on the axle. The result is irreversible damage to suspensions, tires, steering gear.

Axial runout of the wheel is the result of the displacement of the disk along the horizon. Experts call this shift "eight". The axial displacement of the disk is caused by the uneven distribution of masses in the planes. Negative consequences of this defect:

• rapid tread wear;
• damage to the suspension and steering mechanism;
• uneven wear of the tire tread, which leads to a reduction in its service life.

Wheel imbalance is caused by the presence of asymmetrical rotating masses. In particular, it can be hubs, brake drums. Since the wheel is a body of revolution, it must be given a symmetrical shape. The balancing procedure consists in reducing the unbalance of the wheel to an acceptable limit.

The balance is disturbed due to rubber wear and various disk deformations. There may be other reasons that distort the shape of the wheel. A properly balanced wheel is essential for safe driving. The central axis of inertia of such a wheel coincides with its axis of rotation. The manufacturing process of wheels and tires is associated with certain errors. Therefore, the wheel is not balanced initially.

It is customary to distinguish between static and dynamic imbalance. Static imbalance has its own characteristics. The unbalanced mass serves as a source of torque. In other words, the wheel will oscillate. It will continue until the unbalanced mass reaches its lowest point. The wheel behaves like a pendulum.

The elimination of static imbalance is carried out by strengthening the balancing weight. The place of attachment of this load is the point opposite to the unbalanced mass. This is how the wheel is statically balanced.

The cause of dynamic imbalance is the imbalance in the width of the wheel. It manifests itself only in the process of its rotation. This leads to a shift in the axis of inertia and the axis of rotation. The rotation of such a wheel is accompanied by the emergence of centrifugal forces. Elimination of dynamic balance is possible by fixing balancing weights. Dynamic balancing is carried out on a special installation.

The causes of dynamic imbalance, in particular, include:

• valve hole in the disk;
• wheel shape error;
• the presence of inhomogeneities in the material.

home cause of wheel wobble and unbalance - the heterogeneity of the tire, because it is at the greatest distance from the axis of rotation. In addition, it has a greater mass and complex structure. It includes various materials: rubber, fabric, steel wires. The farther the particle is from the axis, the more it affects the imbalance.

Beating at speed

Why is it happening wheel shaking at speed? We single out the three most characteristic modes of vehicle movement:

• at low speed;
• at high speed;
• when braking.

Wheel wobble at low speed may be due to a number of reasons. Among the main factors are:

• the presence of bumps, bulges, bumps on the tire;
• rubber wear from the inside;
• various disk damage;
• wheel imbalance.

Beating at high speeds is a consequence of imbalance. When pieces of dirt stick to the wheel, the balance is disturbed. This is often observed after driving on a dirt road. Under the influence of adhering snow or ice, the same thing happens. Another reason is also possible. The formation of pellets inside the tire.

Wheel wobble when braking possibly due to:

• unbalanced wheels;
• destroyed bearing;
• worn brake discs.

Front wheel runout feels stronger. Driving out of balance is not safe. In addition to vibration, tires, wheels, suspension elements wear out. The vehicle may lose stability, resulting in an accident.

Rear wheel wobble affect driving stability to a lesser extent. People often ask: "Do I need to balance the rear wheels?". Necessarily! The imbalance here also leads to uneven tire wear. The consequences of the beating of the rear wheels are no less detrimental. Discs and suspensions are rapidly destroyed. Therefore, they cannot be ignored.

1. Exceeding the allowable disc imbalance values

Due to the nature of the casting process, all alloy wheels have more or less imbalance. Balancing machines are designed specifically to equalize the total imbalance of the disk assembly with the tire, and even the largest imbalance, after alignment on the balancing machine, does not have any negative impact on the car mechanisms and does not reduce the comfort of driving. Since the imbalance of the wheel assembly can change during operation (dirt sticking on the inner shelf of the rim, tire rotation on the rim, the appearance of hernias on the tire, changes in the geometric shape of the rim), we strongly recommend that the wheels be balanced at least before each operating season.

Because the The Russian standard (GOST R 50511-93) does not stipulate the amount of allowable imbalance, then in practice they are usually guided by the internal standards of factories - manufacturers of rims. These enterprises are suppliers of light-alloy wheels to the conveyors of world car manufacturers and, in our opinion, their internal standard can be extended to wheels supplied to the Russian market.

In order to avoid disputes related to high (according to the client) disc imbalance, our company decided to bring to the attention of buyers the limit values ​​of imbalance for alloy wheels made of light alloys (Table No. 1).

The numbers in the table are the maximum weight stuffed (spring) weights. The mass of self-adhesive weights that are currently common will exceed the limit values ​​\u200b\u200bspecified in the table, which is not a manufacturing defect, because the change in mass occurs due to a change in the radius of the sticker of the goods (Fig. 1).

Fig. 1 Change in the mass of weights depending on their location on the example of one 14-inch disc (alternately: stuffed, self-adhesive and “one weight” mode)

2. Runout (radial and axial)

The beating of the disk means the oscillatory displacement landing shelves under the tire when the disc rotates: parallel to the wheel radius - radial, parallel to the axis of rotation of the wheel - axial (end) (Fig. 2). Vibrations during rotation of the outer edges of the disc, the mounting groove or the face of the disc are not considered runout and have no effect on performance.

Rice. 2 The direction of radial and axial beats relative to the axis of rotation of the disk.

According to paragraph 2.7 of the Russian standard (GOST R 50511-93), the runout of the rim in the areas adjacent to the tire, for passenger cars, should not exceed 0.5 mm (Fig. 3)

Rice. 3 Extract from GOST R 50511-93.

The most common mistake customers make when determining disc runout is to try to visually assess the degree of disc runout on a balancing machine. It is not right. The human eye is not the most accurate instrument, and visually a beating of 0.3 mm is perceived by a person as critical, although in fact it is not.

To check the runout of the disc, use any indicator, electronic or dial type, on a tripod with a measurement accuracy of at least 0.05 mm. The check is carried out in the middle of the landing shelf under the tire. The indicator is installed parallel to the disc radius when checking the radial runout (Fig. 4), and parallel to the axis of rotation of the disc when checking the axial (end) runout. (Fig.5)

Rice. 4 Correct and incorrect installation of the indicator when checking the radial runout of the disk

Rice. 5 Checking the axial (end) runout of the disc

The runout is checked exclusively on the inner surfaces of the disc rim !!!

Unfortunately, the most common cause of disc beating on a balancing machine or on a car is not an incorrect disc geometry, but some external factors, such as an influx of paint on the mating surface, adhering dirt, etc. Remember that before installing the disc on the balancing machine and on the car, it is necessary to carefully check the mating plane and the central hole. Also check the flange of the balancing machine, and the mating plane with the hub on the car. Any speck, rust, piece of adhesive tape or a small drop of paint on these surfaces can cause the disc to warp, resulting in false runout and a change in the overall geometry of the tire, wheel, hub kit.

Recommended sequence of operations when preparing discs for installation on a car

№	Description of operations	Illustrations
1.	Before installation, carefully inspect the disc for damage (dents on the edges of the rim, chips, etc.) that could have been formed during transportation or careless storage. Inspect the hub of the car, if necessary, remove dirt, foreign objects adhering to the car and rust, as they can prevent the correct installation of the wheel on the car.
2.	Check the suitability of the disc on the vehicle: check that the MAX LOAD (maximum static load) of the disc is appropriate for the vehicle, check that the possible centering rings are the correct size and in good condition, the disc should sit snugly or with a small gap on the hub of the car, the gap between the disc and mechanisms of the suspension and braking system of the vehicle must be at least 2 mm (GOST R 50511-93) Ignoring the applicability and installation rules of the disk completely voids the manufacturer's warranty obligations
2.a	Check fasteners for compliance with the car and drive: - nuts / bolts must match: thread size - vehicle; type of mounting surface (cone, sphere, plane) - disks; its length. - the thread must be clean, free of dirt, the threads must be free of nicks and burrs; - nuts / bolts must be tightened at least 6 - 8 turns until fully tightened; - tightening torque of nuts / bolts is given in the vehicle operation manual and is approximately: M12x1.25 thread - 90 Nm, M12x1.5 - 110 Nm, M14x1.5 - 110 ~ 170 Nm The warranty does not cover damage to the disc or breakage of fasteners that occurred due to ignoring the use of fasteners or exceeding the fastener tightening torque.
3.	Install a cone on the rod of the balancing machine corresponding to the central hole of the disc Never install a centering cone on the face of the disc. The hole for the insert is made with less accuracy than the mounting hole and can be made not on the same axis as the axis of the mounting hole of the disk, which will lead to false runout of the disk on the machine and incorrect balancing of the disk. Also, when installing a centering cone on the front side of the disc, there is a possibility of damage to the paint around the hole for the insert.
4.	Install the disc without tire on the balancing machine: check the imbalance of the disc using stuffed (spring) weights, visually check the radial and axial runout of the disc seats, in case of doubt, check the disc with an indicator. To achieve the greatest accuracy and quality of balancing, use the method of fixing the disc similar to mounting the disc on a car (Fig. 4 and Fig. 5) Before installation, be sure to check the mating plane and the central hole of the disc for the absence of dirt, foreign objects adhering to it, or paint drips on it. Also check the flange of the balancing machine, and the mating plane with the hub on the car. Any speck on these surfaces can lead to disc warping and, as a result, to a change in the overall geometry of the “tire, disc, hub” set.
4.a	To check the radial and axial runout, use any indicator on a tripod with a measurement accuracy of at least 0.05 mm. The check is carried out in the middle of the landing shelf under the tire. The indicator is installed parallel to the disk radius when checking radial runout, and parallel to the disk rotation axis when checking axial (end) runout. According to GOST R 50511-93, the maximum allowable runout of the landing flange of the disk should not exceed 0.5 mm The runout is checked exclusively on the inner surfaces of the disc rim. The ability of some modern wheel balancers to measure disc runout on the outer surface of the rim is intended to equalize tire runout and cannot be used to check wheel runout.
5.	Put a tire on the disc. Fit the tire to the rim following the manufacturer's instructions exactly. When installing a tire on a rim with protruding ribs, make sure that the presser foot of the tire changer does not catch the ribs when the rim rotates. When using prefabricated valves, make sure that the slip-on tire does not “bite” the protruding part of the valve during rotation.
6.	Install the disc with tire assembly on the balancing machine and balance it completely. Avoid using padded (spring) weights on alloy rims as they scratch the paint, which can cause corrosion and peeling of the paint. If rammed weights are used, check them carefully for burrs and for correct spring angle, as poor quality weights can cause false leaks.
6.a	"The disk is not balancing, what should I do?" Remove the tire from the disk and install the disk on the balancing machine, having previously removed the previously installed weights (it is not necessary to cut off the valve)
6.b	Turn on the “one load” mode on the machine, scroll the disk, put a mark on the disk in the “heaviest” place of the disk (opposite to the place where the weight is installed)
6.in	Put a tire on the disc. Locate the "valve installation point" marker on the tire and align it with the mark of the "heavy" rim area
6.g	Install the disk on the balancing machine and balance the disk (after the previous operation, the machine should show the best balancing option)