Repair and adjustment of the brake system. Main signs of timing chain wear Brake system ZAZ 968M

Removing the brake drum of the front and rear wheels. To remove the front wheel brake drum (made together with the hub), you need to remove the wheel, then unscrew the three bolts, remove the decorative wheel cap and use a screwdriver and hammer to remove the hub cap. After this, unscrew and unscrew the hub fastening nut and lightly rock the hub in a plane perpendicular to the axis and remove the brake drum.

If the drum wears out significantly and a ledge is formed, it may be difficult to remove the drum from the shoes. To remove such drums, you should extend them as much as possible in the axial direction, and then, by striking the outer diameter of the drum with a hammer, push down both blocks through a wooden spacer. The front drum should be struck in a vertical plane, and the rear drum should be struck in a horizontal plane.

To remove the rear wheel brake drum, you need to remove the decorative wheel cap, then unscrew the six bolts securing the drum to the hub and remove the drum from the pads. If removal is difficult, lightly tap the drum flange with a hammer and remove it from the pads in the same way as the front brake drum.

^ Removing the brake pads. Using special pliers or a pointed rod with a diameter of 4 mm, remove both tension springs of the pads, then, lifting the end of the pressure spring, remove the pad.

Rice. 134. Fastening the brake friction linings with rivets: brake o-block assembly; b-friction lining in development [dimensions 2.5 mm and (99.8 ± 0.1) mm are indicated after grinding]
When removing the rear brake pads, additional operations must be performed: unscrew and remove the release lever and spacer bar. The removed brake pads are cleaned of dust and dirt. Worn friction linings are replaced with new ones.

Installation of the brake pads on the brake shield is performed in the reverse order.

^ Replacement of friction linings of brake pads. If there are no new pads with linings, you can rivet or glue new linings onto the old pads.

P
Before riveting new linings, it is necessary to remove the old linings from the pads by heating the pads to a temperature of 300...350 ° C or cutting them off with a chisel and cleaning them with a file. Eight holes with a diameter of 4.4 mm are drilled on the glued surface of the pad, evenly distributing them over the entire area (Fig. 134). When drilling holes in the pads, the block should be used as a jig. After drilling, the holes are counterseen from the outer surface (Fig. 135). The rivets are made from a brass hollow rod. Instead of brass, you can use aluminum or copper rivets of the same shape, but with a solid rod. A mandrel is used for riveting rivets (Fig. 136).
"Fig. 135. Dimensions of the rivet and holes for it in the friction lining: A- holes in the cover; b - rivet
The glued overlays can be reliably used until 80...90% of their original thickness is worn out. However, the gluing process itself can only be performed with special equipment. VS10-T glue is used for gluing the overlays.

Before gluing the pad, the surface of the pad is cleaned with a coarse-grained abrasive wheel to obtain a grease-free, rough surface free of scale. The pads are degreased by wiping with a solvent. Then the glued surfaces of the pads and linings are coated with glue three times, allowing each time to dry before casting. Next, the pads are glued onto the pads and pressed firmly using a device consisting of a band clamp and an expansion screw. In this form, the pads are placed in an oven, where they are kept at a temperature of 180...200 ° C for an hour.

Glued overlays withstand 2...3 times greater shear force than riveted ones.

^ Dismantling and assembling the main brake cylinder. When disassembling the master cylinder, you must:

Clean one of the air release valves of the front and rear brakes from dust and dirt, remove the rubber protective cap and place a hose for bleeding the hydraulic drive on the head of the front brake valve, lower the free end of the hose into a glass container and, after removing the plugs from the necks of the supply tanks, pump out the brake fluid. . Do the same with the rear brake;

disconnect from the brake master cylinder 12 (see Fig. 130) pipelines going to the brakes and to the master cylinder reservoir;

Unpin pin 7 of brake pedal 1, disconnect the pusher fork from the pedal and unscrew the two bolts 13 fastening the brake master cylinder to the bracket, remove the brake master cylinder from the socket;

secure the master cylinder in a vice or fixture, remove the protective cap from the cylinder ^ 10 (see Fig. 131), unscrewing the locking bolts 18 and a traffic jam 16, and then remove all the parts, following the sequence shown in Fig. 131.

Rice. 136. Mandrel for riveting rivets of the lining to the brake pad (the surface roughness of the working profile should not exceed 1.25 microns)
After disassembling the cylinder, all parts and the body should be thoroughly washed with alcohol or fresh brake fluid, carefully inspected and made sure that the cylinder surface and the working surface of the pistons are completely clean, that there is no rust, marks or other irregularities or increased clearance between the pistons and the cylinder.

If damage is detected on the cylinder bore, it is necessary to eliminate them by grinding in to avoid fluid leakage and premature wear of the piston cups. In case of damage that causes a significant change in the internal diameter of the cylinder, it is necessary to replace the cylinder body with a new one. It is recommended to replace the cuffs with new ones every time the cylinder is disassembled, even if they still appear to be in good condition.

It is also necessary to check the condition of the cylinder protective cap and, if it is damaged, replace it with a new one. Check to see if the piston springs have lost their elasticity.

Before assembly, all parts of the brake cylinder and the internal cavity of the cylinder are lubricated with castor oil or fresh brake fluid. The cylinder is assembled in the reverse order of disassembly, avoiding the ingress of dust, fabric fibers, etc.

After installing the master brake cylinder on the car and connecting the hydraulic pipelines, fill the system with liquid and remove air from it.

Disassembly and assembly of wheel brake cylinders. For s n i - t and i of the wheel brake cylinders of the front wheels must be unscrewed (Fig. 137) connecting nuts of the pipelines 9 And 8, coming from the master brake cylinder 6 to flexible hoses 7 and 7, then remove the brackets /7 securing the flexible hoses to the brackets and unscrew the flexible hoses from the brake cylinders. Unscrew from shield 3 (see Fig. 128) brake connecting pipe 6, then unscrew two bolts 7 and remove the upper and lower brake cylinders from the shield. Do the same on the second shield of the front brake.

To remove the brake cylinders of the rear wheels, it is necessary to unscrew the connecting nuts of the pipelines 15 And 10 (see Fig. 137) from the brake cylinders and, having unscrewed two bolts each, remove the cylinders from the shields.

Disassembly of the brake cylinder should be performed in the following sequence: remove protective covers 7 (Fig. 138), unscrew the pistons 6 thrust ring cylinder 4, With use a copper or wooden drift to knock out (only if absolutely necessary) the thrust rings 4 rear brake cylinder. The parts of the disassembled brake cylinder are thoroughly washed, inspected and their suitability for further work is determined.

Reassemble the wheel brake cylinders in the reverse order, taking into account the following instructions.

The pistons are installed only on the side of the cylinder from which they were turned out. Before assembly, all parts are thoroughly washed in alcohol or fresh brake fluid and blown with compressed air. It is not recommended to wipe parts with rags or ends to avoid contact with sealing surfaces fibers.. Cuffs 4 (Fig. 139), pistons 5 and the inner surface of the cylinder 3 Before assembly, lubricate with castor oil or fresh brake fluid.

When installing pistons in a cylinder, they must be screwed into the rings completely and then unscrewed half a turn, otherwise the pistons will not move in the threads and the drums will jam. In this case, the slot on the piston support rod should be located parallel to the brake shield.

When assembling the cylinder, it is necessary to install the piston with rings in its original position, for which, lightly strike the support rod, install the piston so that the supporting surface of the rod recesses 7 mm from the edge of the cylinder.

Dismantling and assembling the front brake wheel cylinder is carried out in the same way as for the rear brake. To ensure a tight seal, all connections must be tightly tightened.

After installing and securing the cylinders to the brake shield, assembling the pads with springs and replacing the brake drum, air should be removed from the hydraulic drive system.

Rice. 137. Pipelines for hydraulic brake drive. 1.7 - front brake hoses; 2 - tee; 3 - washer; 4 - nut; 5, 8, 9, 10, 12, 15, 16 - pipelines; 6 - main cylinder; 11 - flexible hose for rear brake drive; 13 - tee; 14 - flexible hose of the rear left brake; 17 - bracket.

Rice. 138. Details of the wheel cylinders of the front and rear brakes: 1 - upper wheel cylinder of the front brake; 2 - washer; 3 - coupling; 4 - split spring ring; 5 - cuff; 6 - piston; 7 - protective cover: 8 - valve; 9 - rear brake wheel cylinder

Rice. 139. Rear brake wheel brake cylinder: / - support rod; ^ 2 - protective case; 3- cylinder; 4- cuff; 5- piston: 6- spring split ring
Dismantling of brake drive pipelines. Unscrew (see Fig. 137) the connecting nuts of the pipelines 5, 8, 9, 10, 12, 15, 16 remove brackets 17 securing hoses 1, 7, 11 And 14 and tee 2 And 13, remove tubes and hoses. Damaged pipelines or nuts, as well as hoses, are replaced with new ones.

Before installation, the pipelines are thoroughly washed in denatured alcohol, alcohol or gasoline and blown with compressed air. After installing a new front brake hose, make sure that at maximum steering angles of the front wheels, the hose does not touch the wheel tire or suspension arms. The front wheel hoses are interchangeable, the rear hoses are not interchangeable.

^ Filling the brake system with fluid and removing air from it. To fill the hydraulic brake drive, use Neva brake fluid (TU 6-01-1163-78) or BSK (TU 6-10-1533-75). It is strictly forbidden to fill the system (or add even the smallest amount) with mineral oils, gasoline, kerosene or mixtures thereof. It is not allowed to mix brake fluids of different brands before refueling, or to add a fluid of a different composition to the one already in the hydraulic drive system. The use of glycerin-based brake fluid is not permitted.

Fill a clean glass transparent vessel with a capacity of approximately 0.5 liters from 1/3 to 1/2 of the height;

remove the plug from the neck of the feed tank of the master brake cylinder and fill with fluid to the normal level;

Clean the air release valves from the wheel cylinders from dust and dirt and remove the rubber protective caps. Place the hose for bleeding the hydraulic drive onto the head of the air release valve of any one wheel, and lower the free end of the hose into a glass container. It is necessary to keep in mind - Do not press the brake pedal when at least one brake drum is removed, since the pressure in the system will squeeze the pistons out of the wheel cylinder and the brake fluid will flow out;

Press the brake pedal sharply 3...5 times with an interval of 2...3 s between presses and, holding the pedal in the pressed position, unscrew the valve 1/2...3/4 turns, displacing the fluid in the system by pressing the pedal along with the air until the pedal stops completely. Without releasing the pedal, close the valve. Repeat these operations for each wheel. When performing these operations, a normal liquid level must be maintained in the nutrient tank.

You can also remove air from the system by supplying air under pressure (for each pair of brakes) of no more than 2 kgf/cm2 into the tank with the bleeding valve open, without touching the brake pedal.

With normal clearances between the brake pads and drums and the absence of air in the system, the brake pedal, when pressed with your foot, should not move more than 90...95 mm of its travel. In this case, the foot should feel strong resistance (the feeling of a “hard” pedal). If the pedal moves further, but the pedal is “hard,” this indicates increased clearance between the pads and brake drums. In this case, it is necessary to make five or six sharp braking when the car is moving forward at a speed of 30 km/h and several sharp braking when reversing.

^ Dismantling and assembling the parking brake drive. To remove the parking brake drive from the vehicle, you must:

Unpin and remove from the release lever pin ^ 8 (see Fig. 133) cable end 4, bend the bracket II fastening the shell to the rear suspension arm and remove the cable from the thrust bracket. Perform the same operations on the second rear suspension arm;

remove five screws ^ 12 cover fastening 3 floor tunnel and remove the cable from the holes in the cover;

Unscrew four bolts 5 securing the parking brake lever to the tunnel and pull it out of the tunnel complete with the cable.

To disassemble the parking brake drive lever, unscrew and remove the roller pins and sectors, remove the locking

ring and knock out the lever axis, then unscrew the button and remove the spring and button rod from the lever.

The brake drive parts must be thoroughly washed in gasoline and inspected. The main malfunctions of the drive may be excessive tension of the cable, which must be replaced (provided that all three adjustments for cable tension have been used), or wear of the pawl tooth. The worn-out dog is replaced with a new one.

Assembly drive the parking brake and install it on the vehicle in the reverse order. During assembly, all rubbing surfaces of the drive (axle shaft and cable) should be lubricated with graphite lubricant.

^ Adjusting the parking brake drive. When properly adjusted, the parking brake should hold the vehicle securely on an incline. The need to adjust the parking brake drive in operation is caused by two reasons: wear of the friction linings of the rear wheel brakes and stretching and weakening of the drive cable.

To make adjustments, place the car on stands so that the rear wheels rotate freely, and check the free play of the brake pedal to ensure that the gaps between the pads and brake drums of the service brake drive are correct. The parking brake lever must be in its lowest position.

There are three ways to adjust the parking brake drive (see Fig. 133):

Changing the cable tension by moving the bracket 6 lever forward. To do this, you need to loosen the four bolts securing the bracket to the tunnel and slide the bracket forward along the oval holes. Tighten the two bolts and check the lever travel. The stroke of the lever until the wheels are completely braked should not exceed four to five clicks of the ratchet. After adjustment, tighten the bracket fastening bolts;

when using the entire length of the oval holes, it is possible to additionally tension the cable by moving the equalizing roller to the next hole A in the lever, after which you should repeat the operations specified in the previous paragraph;

Regardless of the cable stretch, the stroke of the release lever on the brake shield increases due to wear of the brake pad linings and their automatic shift towards the drum.

If the brake linings are worn by 50...60% of their thickness and it is impossible to ensure the effectiveness of the brake only due to the above adjustments, the spacer strips should be rearranged 9 both brakes to a larger size. If, after rearranging the bars, braking occurs when the lever moves two or three clicks, it is necessary to loosen the cable tension using the lever bracket or by rearranging the equalizer roller.

Periodic maintenance of the ZAZ brake system is carried out at the following stages:

After 20 thousand kilometers, the brake drums are dismantled, the brakes are cleaned of dirt, the friction linings are checked, and the brake pads are renewed (as needed).
After a run of 60 thousand kilometers, the brake cylinders are disassembled, washed and inspected for worn and faulty parts. After replacing unusable parts with new ones, the system is purged and the fluid is replaced.

Friction linings on brake pads have a relatively short service life - about 30 thousand kilometers. The wear of the linings largely depends on driving style and road conditions. It is advisable to replace drums during major car repairs. The absence of dirt in the hydraulic brake drive, as well as the use of high-quality fluid, guarantees long-term and reliable operation of the system.

Removing the ZAZ brake drum

We dismantle the front wheel by unscrewing 3 bolts, remove the hub cap, and unfasten the hub cap with a hammer and screwdriver. Then we take out the cotter pin and unscrew the hub connection nut, gently rock the hub perpendicular to the axis, and pull out the brake drum.

After long-term use, drums may have a ledge, making it difficult to release from the shoes. Use the following method: extend the drum as far as possible along the axis, tap the outer diameter of the drum with a hammer (placing wood pads) - this will settle the pads. To dismantle the front drums, the impulse should be transmitted vertically, for the rear drums - horizontally.

On the rear wheels, the ZAZ brake drum is removed as follows: remove the cap, unscrew the 6 fastening bolts between the hub and the drum, and remove the drum from the pads. If you cannot remove it, hit the drum flange with a hammer.

Since the friction linings of the pads on a ZAZ wear out much earlier than the brake drums, you should understand the principles of replacing them. Often new pads are glued onto old pads. To do this, heat the old linings to 300⁰C and remove them, or cut them off with a chisel and sand them with a file. The surface of the pads intended for gluing needs 8 holes of 4.4 mm each; these holes should be evenly distributed over the area. Using the block as a conductor, we drill holes in the pads themselves. We process the holes with a counterbore from the outside. Using a mandrel, we rivet rivets made of brass, aluminum or copper. The linings work until they are erased by 90% of the initial thickness.

When performing brake system maintenance, it is important to know and use the materials correctly. BC 10 T adhesive is used on the overlays; it allows them to withstand three times greater shear force than in the case of rivets.

Timely diagnosis and maintenance of the brake system will eliminate performance problems.

Brake system of the ZAZ-965a “Zaporozhets” car

On the ZAZ -965A Zaporozhets car, the braking system consists of wheel shoe brakes hydraulically driven by a foot pedal. The rear wheel brakes are also manually driven by a lever located on the right side of the driver's seat.

Wheel brakes are shoe brakes, self-aligning. All brakes have one working cylinder. The brake master cylinder rod is connected to the brake pedal. The brake pedal with its hub, which has a plastic bushing, is installed on the pedal bracket and is equipped with a release spring. The master brake cylinder is mounted on the front panel of the body and is connected by a tube to the reservoir located in the trunk of the body. From the master cylinder, the pipelines are connected to the brake cylinders of the wheel brakes.

The gap between the brake pads and the brake drum is adjusted by eccentrics installed in the brake shields.

The lever for the manual mechanical drive of the rear brakes is equipped with an equalizer roller, through which a cable passes through the guide shells. The ends of the cable are connected to release levers that act on the rear brake pads.

The manual drive of the rear brakes is adjusted using threaded cable ends, shifting the lever bracket and rearranging the roller in the cheeks of the lever.

On the ZAZ -965 Zaporozhets car, the brake system has the same device.

Removing the brake drum of the front and rear wheels. To remove the front wheel brake drum (made together with the hub), you need to remove the wheel, then unscrew the three bolts, remove the decorative wheel cap and use a screwdriver and hammer to remove the hub cap. After this, unscrew and unscrew the hub fastening nut and lightly rock the hub in a plane perpendicular to the axis and remove the brake drum.

Removing the brake pads. Using special pliers or a pointed rod with a diameter of 4 mm, remove both tension springs of the pads, then, lifting the end of the pressure spring, remove the pad.

Rice. 134. Fastening the brake friction linings with rivets: brake o-block assembly; b-friction lining in development (dimensions 2.5 mm and (99.8 ± 0.1) mm are indicated after grinding)

When removing the rear brake pads, additional operations must be performed: unscrew and remove the release lever and spacer bar. The removed brake pads are cleaned of dust and dirt. Worn friction linings are replaced with new ones.

Installation of the brake pads on the brake shield is performed in the reverse order.

Replacement of friction linings of brake pads. If there are no new pads with linings, you can rivet or glue new linings onto the old pads.

Before riveting new linings, it is necessary to remove the old linings from the pads by heating the pads to a temperature of 300...350 ° C or cutting them off with a chisel and cleaning them with a file. Eight holes with a diameter of 4.4 mm are drilled on the glued surface of the pad, evenly distributing them over the entire area (Fig. 134). When drilling holes in the pads, the block should be used as a jig. After drilling, the holes are counterseen from the outer surface (Fig. 135). The rivets are made from a brass hollow rod. Instead of brass, you can use aluminum or copper rivets of the same shape, but with a solid rod. A mandrel is used for riveting rivets (Fig. 136).

Rice. 135. Dimensions of the rivet and holes for it in the friction lining: a - holes in the lining; b - rivet

The glued overlays can be reliably used until 80...90% of their original thickness is worn out. However, the gluing process itself can only be done with special equipment. VS10-T glue is used for gluing the overlays.

Glued overlays withstand 2...3 times greater shear force than riveted ones.

Dismantling and assembling the main brake cylinder. When disassembling the master cylinder, you must:

clean one of the air release valves of the front and rear brakes from dust and dirt, remove the rubber protective cap and place a hose for bleeding the hydraulic drive on the head of the front brake valve, lower the free end of the hose into a glass container and, after removing the plugs from the necks of the supply tanks, pump out the brake fluid . Do the same with the rear brake;

disconnect from the main brake cylinder 12 (see Fig. 130) the pipelines going to the brakes and to the master cylinder reservoir;

Unpin pin 7 of brake pedal 1, disconnect the pusher fork from the pedal and, having unscrewed two bolts 13 securing the brake master cylinder to the bracket, remove the brake master cylinder from the socket;

fix the main cylinder in a vice or in a device, remove the protective cap 10 from the cylinder (see Fig. 131), unscrewing the locking bolts 18 and plug 16, and then remove all the parts, following the sequence shown in Fig. 131.

Rice. 136. Mandrel for riveting rivets of the lining to the brake pad (the surface roughness of the working profile should not exceed 1.25 microns)

After disassembling the cylinder, all parts and the body should be thoroughly washed with alcohol or fresh brake fluid, carefully inspected and made sure that the cylinder surface and the working surface of the pistons are completely clean, that there is no rust, marks or other irregularities or increased clearance between the pistons and the cylinder.

It is also necessary to check the condition of the cylinder protective cap and, if it is damaged, replace it with a new one. Check to see if the piston springs have lost their elasticity.

After installing the master brake cylinder on the car and connecting the hydraulic pipelines, fill the system with liquid and remove air from it.

Disassembly and assembly of wheel brake cylinders. To remove the wheel brake cylinders of the front wheels, it is necessary to unscrew (Fig. 137) the connecting nuts of the pipelines 9 and 8 going from the main brake cylinder 6 to the flexible hoses 7 and 7, then remove the brackets /7 securing the flexible hoses to the brackets and unscrew the flexible hoses from the brake cylinders Unscrew the connecting pipe 6 from the brake shield 3 (see Fig. 128), then unscrew the two bolts 7 and remove the upper and lower brake cylinders from the shield. Do the same on the second shield of the front brake.

To remove the brake cylinders of the rear wheels, it is necessary to unscrew the connecting nuts of pipelines 15 and 10 (see Fig. 137) from the brake cylinders and, having unscrewed two bolts each, remove the cylinders from the shields.

Disassembly of the brake cylinder should be performed in the following sequence: remove protective covers 7 (Fig. 138), unscrew the pistons 6 of the cylinder from the thrust rings 4, use a copper or wooden drift to knock out (only if absolutely necessary) the thrust rings 4 of the rear brake cylinder. The parts of the disassembled brake cylinder are thoroughly washed, inspected and their suitability for further work is determined.

Reassemble the wheel brake cylinders in the reverse order, taking into account the following instructions.

The pistons are installed only on the side of the cylinder from which they were turned out. Before assembly, all parts are thoroughly washed in alcohol or fresh brake fluid and blown with compressed air. It is not recommended to wipe parts with rags or ends to avoid getting fibers on the sealing surfaces. Lubricate cuffs 4 (Fig. 139), pistons 5 and the inner surface of cylinder 3 with castor oil or fresh brake fluid before assembly.

When installing pistons in a cylinder, they must be screwed into the rings completely and then unscrewed half a turn, otherwise the pistons will not move in the threads and the drums will jam. In this case, the slot on the piston support rod should be located parallel to the brake shield.

Dismantling and assembling the front brake wheel cylinder is carried out in the same way as for the rear brake. To ensure a tight seal, all connections must be tightly tightened.

After installing and securing the cylinders to the brake shield, assembling the pads with springs and replacing the brake drum, air should be removed from the hydraulic drive system.

Rice. 138. Details of the wheel cylinders of the front and rear brakes: 1 - upper wheel cylinder of the front brake; 2 - washer; 3 - coupling; 4 - split spring ring; 5 - cuff; 6 - piston; 7 - protective cover: 8 - valve; 9 - rear brake wheel cylinder

Rice. 139. Rear brake wheel brake cylinder: 1 - support rod; 2 - protective cover; 3-cylinder; 4-cuff; 5-piston: 6-split ring

Dismantling of brake drive pipelines. Unscrew (see Fig. 137) the connecting nuts of pipelines 5, 8, 9, 10, 12, 15, 16, remove the brackets 17 securing hoses 1, 7, 11 and 14 and the tee 2 and 13, remove the tubes and hoses. Damaged pipelines or nuts, as well as hoses, are replaced with new ones.

Filling the brake system with fluid and removing air from it. To fill the hydraulic brake drive, use Neva brake fluid (TU 6-01-1163-78) or BSK (TU 6-10-1533-75). It is strictly forbidden to fill the system (or add even the smallest amount) with mineral oils, gasoline, kerosene or mixtures thereof. It is not allowed to mix brake fluids of different brands before refueling, or to add a fluid of a different composition to the one already in the hydraulic drive system. The use of glycerin-based brake fluid is not permitted.

fill a clean glass transparent vessel with a capacity of approximately 0.5 liters from 1/3 to 1/2 of the height;

remove the plug from the neck of the supply tank of the master brake cylinder and fill with fluid to the normal level;

Clean the air release valves from the wheel cylinders from dust and dirt and remove the rubber protective caps. Place the hose for bleeding the hydraulic drive onto the head of the air release valve of any one wheel, and lower the free end of the hose into a glass container. It is necessary to keep in mind that you cannot press the brake pedal when at least one brake drum is removed, since the pressure in the system will squeeze the pistons out of the wheel cylinder and the brake fluid will flow out;

sharply press the brake pedal 3...5 times with an interval of 2...3 s between pressing and, holding the pedal in the pressed position, unscrew the valve 1/2...3/4 turn, displacing the liquid in the system by pressing the pedal along with the air until the pedal stops completely. Without releasing the pedal, close the valve. Repeat these operations for each wheel. When performing these operations, a normal liquid level must be maintained in the nutrient tank.

With normal clearances between the brake pads and drums and the absence of air in the system, the brake pedal, when pressed with your foot, should not move more than 90...95 mm of its travel. In this case, the foot should feel strong resistance (the feeling of a “hard” pedal). If the pedal moves further, but the pedal is “hard,” this indicates increased clearance between the pads and brake drums. In this case, it is necessary to make five-six sharp braking when the car is moving forward at a speed of 30 km/h and several sharp braking when reversing.

Dismantling and assembling the parking brake drive. To remove the parking brake drive from the vehicle, you must:

Undo the pin and remove the end of the cable 4 from the pin of the release lever 8 (see Fig. 133), bend the bracket II securing the shell to the rear suspension arm and remove the cable from the thrust bracket. Perform the same operations on the second rear suspension arm;

unscrew the five screws 12 securing the floor tunnel cover 3 and remove the cable from the holes in the cover;

Unscrew the four bolts 5 securing the parking brake lever to the tunnel and pull it out of the tunnel together with the cable.

To disassemble the parking brake drive lever, unscrew and remove the roller pins and sectors, remove the locking

ring and knock out the lever axis, then unscrew the button and remove the spring and button rod from the lever.

Assembling the parking brake drive and installing it on the vehicle is carried out in the reverse order. During assembly, all rubbing surfaces of the drive (axle shaft and cable) should be lubricated with graphite lubricant.

Adjusting the parking brake drive. When properly adjusted, the parking brake should hold the vehicle securely on an incline. The need to adjust the parking brake drive in operation is caused by two reasons: wear of the friction linings of the rear wheel brakes and stretching and weakening of the drive cable.

There are three ways to adjust the parking brake drive (see Fig. 133):

changing the cable tension by moving the lever bracket 6 forward. To do this, you need to loosen the four bolts securing the bracket to the tunnel and slide the bracket forward along the oval holes. Tighten the two bolts and check the lever travel. The stroke of the lever until the wheels are completely braked should not exceed four to five clicks of the ratchet. After adjustment, tighten the bracket fastening bolts;

when using the entire length of the oval holes, it is possible to additionally tension the cable by moving the equalizing roller to the next hole A in the lever, after which the operations specified in the previous paragraph should be repeated;

Regardless of the cable stretch, the stroke of the release lever on the brake shield increases due to wear of the brake pad linings and their automatic shift towards the drum.

If the brake linings are worn by 50...60% of their thickness and it is impossible to ensure the effectiveness of the brake only due to the above adjustments, the spacer bars 9 of both brakes should be rearranged to a larger size. If, after rearranging the bars, braking occurs when the lever moves two or three clicks, it is necessary to loosen the cable tension using the lever bracket or by rearranging the equalizer roller.

DESIGN FEATURES OF THE BRAKE SYSTEM

The car is equipped with drum-type brake mechanisms with floating (self-aligning) shoes and a device for automatically maintaining a constant gap between the drums and the shoes. To control the brake mechanisms, the car is equipped with two independent drives: a hydraulic one from a foot pedal, acting on all wheels, and a mechanical one from a hand crank, acting only on the rear wheels.

Rice. 128. Front wheel brake: 1 - pressure spring; 2 - tension spring; 3 - shield; 4 - block; 5 - wheel cylinder; 6 - tube, 7 - cylinder mounting bolt; 8, 10 - washers; 9, 13 - bolts; 11, 12 - nuts

The hydraulic brake drive consists of two independent systems for braking the front and rear wheels. The main cylinder has two independent cavities with two pistons and one reservoir with two hoses for supplying liquid to each cavity separately. Two independent systems are introduced for safety. If one pipeline is damaged, one braking system will not operate, but the second will work.

The brake mechanisms of the front wheels (Fig. 128) are mounted on stamped steel shields, which are attached to the steering knuckles with three bolts. Each brake has two working wheel cylinders with an internal diameter of the upper - 22 and lower - 19 mm, each of which acts on one of the two pads.

Rice. 129. Rear wheel brake: 1 - wheel cylinder; 2 - shield; 3 - block; 4 - pressure spring; 5 - pipeline nut; 6 - cylinder fastening bolt; 7 - washer; 8 - seal; 9 - nut; 10 - screw; 11 - expansion lever; 12 - expansion bar; 13 - cotter pin; a - slot when installing new pads; b - slot for rearranging the pads when the friction linings are worn by 50%.

The brake drums are made of ductile iron and are manufactured together with the wheel bearing hub. The pad linings are made of asbestos rubber mass and glued to the pads with special glue followed by heat treatment. The pads are tightened by two springs. Support posts are welded to the shields, to which the pads are pressed with special springs.

Rice. 130. Parts of the hydraulic brake drive: 1 - pedal; 2 - seal; 3 - bracket; 4, 13, 15 - bolts; 5 - spacer sleeve; 6 - bushing; 7 - finger; 8 - fork; 9 - tank; 10 - tank fastening nut; 11 - flexible hose; 12 - main cylinder assembly; 14 - spring; 16 - pusher.

The wheel brake cylinder consists of thrust split rings, which are pressed into the cylinders with a force of at least 35 kgf. The slot of the rings is installed parallel to the brake shield. The rings have a rectangular thread inside, through which pistons with sealing collars are screwed into them. The width of the ring thread is larger than the thread on the piston. The piston can move freely relative to the ring by 2 mm. A steel support rod is pressed into the piston, into the groove of which the end of the block rib (the toe of the block) fits. A rubber protective cover protects the inner surface of the cylinder from dust, water and dirt.

Rice. 131. Parts of the brake master cylinder: 1, 3 - springs; 2 - cup; 4, 9 - sealing cuffs; 5 - spacer ring; 6 - rear brake piston; 7 - thrust washer; 8 - front brake piston; 10 - cap; 11 - crankcase; 12 - lock washer; 13 - fitting; 14, 15, 17 - gaskets; 16 - plug; 18 - installation bolt

The brake mechanisms of the rear wheels (Fig. 129) are mounted on stamped steel panels and are attached to the rear suspension arms together with the bearing housing with four bolts. Each brake has one wheel cylinder with an internal diameter of 19 mm, acting on both pads. The brake drums are made of ductile iron and are attached to the hub with six bolts. The wheel cylinder is attached to the brake shield with two bolts. Two pistons with cuffs and spring rings are inserted into the internal through cavity of the cylinder, structurally identical with the pistons of the front wheels and interchangeable with the pistons of the lower working cylinder. Brake pads, tension springs and pressure springs for the rear and front brakes are interchangeable.

The hydraulic drive to the brake mechanisms includes a suspended pedal 1 (Fig. 130), which is attached to the bracket 3 with a bolt 4 with plastic 6 and spacer 5 bushings.

The brake light switch is also attached to the pedal bracket. The pedal is connected to the brake master cylinder through an adjustable pusher by an axle and is held in its original position by the force of the tension spring. Adjusting washers are installed between the pusher fork and the pedal to compensate for possible inaccuracy in the alignment of the axis of the brake master cylinder and the pusher axis.

The brake master cylinder is attached with two bolts to a bracket welded in the trunk.

The brake master cylinder (Fig. 131) consists of two movable pistons to create two independent braking systems for the front and rear wheels, and is fed from a reservoir connected to the cylinder by flexible hoses.

The brake pedal pusher acts on the master cylinder piston. Tightness at the rear end is ensured by a rubber cuff 9 placed in a groove on the piston. A floating type cuff 4 is placed at the front end of the piston. When the main cylinder is inoperative, the cuff is kept from contact with the piston by a spacer ring 5, which rests against the piston mounting bolt 18.

When you press the brake pedal, the piston moves forward and comes into contact with the cuff, pressed against the piston by spring 3. From this moment, the communication with the nutrient tank stops and the pressure in front of the master cylinder piston begins to increase.

Rice. 132. Hydraulic brake drive: 1 - brake light switch; 2 - nut; 3 - tip; 4 - nut; 5 - pusher; 6 - main cylinder; 7 - spring; 8 - pedal

The cuffs have a toroidal cross-section, the outer diameter of which in the free state is slightly larger than the inner diameter of the cylinder. If the rings are not exposed to brake fluid pressure, then only the middle outer belt of the rings is in contact with the cylinder bore, and the edges are not in contact.

Under the influence of brake fluid pressure, radial and axial pressure causes the rubber rings to expand, thereby creating a seal with the cylinder surface. The side of the cuff facing the piston is pressed against the cylinder bore, and the opposite side, washed by liquid under pressure, retains its rounded shape and remains separated from the cylinder bore even when moved.

The contact area of the cuffs with the cylinder mirror is reduced to a minimum, and the rounded shape on the side of the cylinder mirror ensures completely satisfactory sliding lubrication of the surface with particularly low frictional resistance. The cavities formed between the parts of the master cylinder, at rest, have a volume that fully provides compensation in the event of expansion of the brake fluid.

The rear brake actuator piston is actuated by brake fluid pressure, and the front brake actuator piston is actuated by a pusher when the brake pedal is pressed.

The brake master cylinder has an internal diameter of 19 mm. There should be a gap of 0.3...0.9 mm between the pusher and the piston (Fig. 132), which is ensured by changing the position of the brake signal switch 1 and the design of the adjustable pusher 5 (fork and threaded tip). In this case, the pedal free play is 1.5...5 mm. The pedal position is adjusted as follows:

by changing the position of the switch, the pedal stroke is set to 160...165 mm, while the stroke of pusher 5 should be 30...31 mm;

By changing the length of the pusher, the gap between the pusher and the piston is set to 0.3...0.9 mm. The control is carried out by measuring the gap between the pedal stop 8 and the plastic tip 3 of the brake signal switch.

As the pads and drums wear, the piston stroke of the wheel cylinders increases and the brake pedal stroke increases accordingly. To restore normal travel of the brake pedal, you should perform five or six sharp braking on a flat, dry highway while moving forward at a speed of 30 km/h, as well as several sharp braking while moving in reverse.

The parking brake (Fig. 133) acts on the brake pads of the rear wheels through a lever and rods. The lever swings on an axis in a bracket attached to the floor tunnel with four bolts. The bracket has oval holes that serve to move the bracket when adjusting the brake (cable tension). The lever cage has an additional hole for rearranging the roller when the cable is pulled out significantly.

The spacer bar has an additional slot with a smaller recess. When the friction linings are worn to 50...60% of their thickness, it is recommended to move the spacer bars to a larger size.

Rice. 133. Parking brake drive: 1 - lever; 2 - roller equalizer; 3 - floor tunnel cover; 4 - cable; 5 - bracket fastening bolt; 6 - bracket; 7 - equalizer roller axis; 8 - expansion lever; 9 - spacer bar; 10 - return spring; 11 - bracket for fastening the cable sheath; 12 - screw; A - adjustment hole; B - slot for rearranging the pads when the friction linings are worn by 50%.

STEERING REPAIR AND ADJUSTMENT

Removing and installing the steering wheel. To remove the steering wheel, place a screwdriver under the mandrel of the decorative button (for this purpose, the mandrel has a slot for a screwdriver) and carefully, trying not to damage it, remove the horn button assembly from the steering wheel hub. Unscrew the steering wheel fastening nut two turns and, using a puller (Fig. 119), move the steering wheel from the shaft, and then remove the puller, finally unscrew the nut and remove the steering wheel.

Before removing the steering wheel from the shaft, it is necessary to make marks on the hub and shaft in order to set the steering wheel in the previous position during assembly. The mark is applied only if the worm is not intended to be separated from the steering shaft.

Install the steering wheel in the reverse order. In this case, the tightening torque of the steering wheel nut should be 3.5...4 kgf-m.

Removing and installing the steering mechanism. Before removing the steering mechanism, clean the steering arm, shaft and nut from dirt.

Rice. 119. Steering wheel puller: 1 - screw; 2 - traverse; 3 - foot; 4 - stand; 5 - steering wheel fastening nut; 6 - steering wheel; 7 - shaft

Unscrew nut 14 (see Fig. 118) securing the bipod and, using a puller, press the bipod off the shaft. The puller (Fig. 120) consists of two parts: body 1 and nut 2. To press out bipod 3, screw nut 2 completely onto the bipod shaft, then place the body / puller onto the bipod and shaft so that the lower flange of housing 1 fits into the annular groove on nut 2.

Using a wrench, unscrew nut 2 of the puller and remove the steering bipod 3 from the shaft. Unscrew three bolts 15 and 16 (see Fig. 118) securing the steering gear housing to the body (two from the trunk and one from under the front fender), set the ignition key to the “Off” position, then unscrew the nuts from the bolts securing support 4 (Fig. . 121) of the steering shaft to the body and remove bolts 3. Disconnect the plug blocks of the switch wiring harness, remove four wires from the ignition switch plugs and, slightly tilting the steering shaft, remove the shaft support from it along with the switches and the bundle of wires.

Lift the steering mechanism by the crankcase and remove the bipod shaft from the hole in the body, then, moving the steering mechanism forward, remove it from the trunk.

Installation of a repaired or new steering mechanism on a car is performed as follows.

Place seal / on the steering shaft (see Fig. 121) and lubricate with graphite grease the interface between the seal and support 4 with shaft 2, then install the steering mechanism in place, having first checked the presence of seal 13 (see Fig. 118) installed in hole in the bracket securing the steering gear housing to the body.

Rice. 118 Steering. 1 - crankcase assembly; 2 -- steering shaft; 3 - ignition switch; 4 - shaft support; 5, 15 - bolts; 6 - contact insert; 7 - insulating sleeve; 8 - seal; 9 - steering wheel; 10 -- ignition switch contact device; 11 - contact plate; 12 - terminal connection; 13 - seal; 14 - bipod fastening nut; 16 - crankcase mounting bolt from under the wing; wire colors: a, d - red; b -- orange; c - purple; e - green.

Rice. 120. Puller for removing the bipod of the steering mechanism:

A. - puller parts; b-diagram of installation of a puller for removing the bipod; 1-body; 2 - nut; 3 - bipod

Rice. 121. Steering parts: 1 - seal; 2 - steering shaft; 3 - support mounting bolt; 4 - shaft support; 5 - support casing; 6 - casing fastening screw; 7 - switch mounting clamp; 8 - steering wheel hub: 9 - windshield wiper and windshield washer switch lever; 10 - steering wheel fastening nut: 11 - retaining ring; 12 - support cover; 13 - spring; 14 - contact ring; 15-gasket; 16 - button; 17- mandrel; 18 - steering wheel: 19 - bolt securing the switch clamp; 10 - turn the switch lever; 21 - headlight switch lever; 22 - ignition switch; 23 - sleeve spring; 24 - ignition switch fastening screw: 25 - bolt; 26 - contact plate; 27 - contact insert; a - mark on the protrusion of the turn signal reset ring

Place support 4, assembled with the ignition switch (the ignition key must be set to the “Off” position), the switch and the casing (see Fig. 121) on the steering shaft 2. Connect the support 4 of the steering shaft with two bolts 3 to the instrument panel spacer, having first tightened the nuts two or three turns.

Screw in and tighten two bolts 3 (see Fig. 123) securing the steering gear housing to the body from the trunk. The gap formed between the crankcase boss and the bracket is selected using adjusting washers 25, put on the crankcase mounting bolt 24, passed through the hole in the mudguard (under the front left fender) and finally tightened.

Install the steering wheel on the shaft so that when the car is moving in a straight line, the smaller angle between the steering wheel spokes is directed downward and located symmetrically relative to the instrument panel. Secure the steering wheel by tightening the nut, tightening torque 3.5...4 kgf"m.

The turn signal release ring must be installed so that protrusion a (see Fig. 121), on which there is a vertical mark, is located at the top. Moving the shaft support up to the steering wheel (the steering wheel spokes should be positioned as described above), insert the ejector protrusions into the slots in the steering wheel hub.

Finally tighten the nuts securing support 4 to the body. Connect the connector blocks of the switch wiring harness. Connect the wires to the ignition switch (see electrical diagram, Fig. 140).

Check the operation of the turn signal switch reset. To do this, you need to turn on the turn signal in any direction, turn the steering wheel to an angle of at least 90° and return it to its original position, in which case the resetter should operate and the switch handle should return to the middle position. The same operations are performed in the other direction. Then they check the operation of the anti-theft device, which requires setting the ignition key to the “Parking” position, then removing it and turning the steering wheel to the right or left until it locks, i.e. the ignition lock rod enters the cutout of the ring attached to the steering shaft management. Place the ignition key back in the “O” (off) position and turn the steering wheel slightly to the right to turn off the anti-theft device.

Connect the bipod to the shaft. It should be taken into account that the bipod must be put on so that the spline on the shaft coincides with the protrusion on the bipod. Tighten the bipod fastening nut to failure (nut tightening torque 16...19 kgf-m).

Dismantling and assembling the steering shaft support (Fig. 122). Disassemble the shaft support in the following order: unscrew the screw 11 securing the casing 6 to the support 5, move the casing down, then, unscrewing the bolt 10 of the clamp 9, remove the switch and casing from the shaft support. Measure the internal diameter of the plastic bushing in the shaft support; it should be 19.6 + 0.28 mm. If the bushing has significant wear and the shaft knocks in the bushing are felt when driving, the bushing should be replaced with a new one:

remove the contact plate 15 of the sound signal from the shaft support, set the ignition key to the “Off” position. Unscrew the two screws 13 securing the ignition switch in the shaft support, then use a screwdriver to push the sleeve 14 into the ignition switch 12. The screwdriver should be inserted from the side of the ignition switch plugs, i.e. from the bottom. Moving the lock up, remove it from the socket. (Since August 1982, the fastening of the ignition switch in the support has been changed. The lock is secured with two side screws 13 (there is no screw in the lower part of the sleeve 14). Additionally, in the lower part of the boss, a special liner is installed on the support, which is fixed with a spike in the lower hole (instead of screw 13 To remove the ignition switch, you need to unscrew the two side screws, and in the lower part of the support (where the spike is visible from the hole), use a drill with a diameter of 5 mm to drill the spike to a depth of 4 mm, after which the lock is removed from the support, as described above.)

Reassemble the shaft support in the reverse order, observing the following features:

insert the wiring harness blocks 4 into the casing 6, install a clamp 9 with a bolt 10 and a nut on the switch sleeve;

put the casing 6 and the switch on the support 5 of the steering shaft. The switch on the shaft support should be installed all the way into the protrusion so that the widest slot in the sleeve fits into the pin. Secure the switch to the support with a clamp, installing the clamp as shown in Fig. 122:

move the casing 6 towards the switch and secure it with a screw. To install the ignition switch in the support, you need to set the key to the “Off” position, recess the spring of the switch sleeve and in this position, install the switch in the socket until it is completely fixed by the spring, secure the lock with screws.

Disassembly, assembly and adjustment of the steering mechanism. When disassembling the steering mechanism you must:

Unscrew plug 14 (Fig. 123) of the oil filler hole and drain the oil from the crankcase;

Unscrew the bolt 4 connecting the steering shaft 5 with the worm 9 and lightly hit the splined sleeve with a hammer in the axial direction to disconnect the worm from the shaft. Unscrew the bolts 10 securing the crankcase cover and, carefully (to avoid damage to the gasket) lifting the cover, remove the steering bipod shaft 20 together with the cover 2;

insert a screwdriver into the slot of the adjusting screw 12, unscrew the lock nut 11 and, having unscrewed the adjusting screw 12 from cover 2, disconnect the steering bipod shaft 20 from the adjusting screw:

remove washer 13 from adjusting screw 12 and gasket from the crankcase; Unscrew the lock nut 7 one or two turns, then unscrew the adjusting plug 6, remove the worm 9 along with the outer ring of the bearing, the lower bearing separator and the upper bearing separator of the worm;

Rice. 122. Steering shaft support assembly: 1 - protrusion on the turn signal release ring with a vertical mark; 2 - windshield wiper and washer switch lever; 3 - direction indicator reset ring: 4 - wiring harness; 5 - shaft support; 6- support casing; 7 - turn switch lever: 8 - headlight switch lever; 9 - clamp; 10 - clamp bolt; 11 - screw securing the casing; 12 - ignition switch; 13 - lock fastening screw; 14 - ignition lock sleeve; 15 - horn contact plate

press out the outer race of the upper bearing of the worm from the crankcase, remove the cuff 17 of the bipod shaft and the worm shaft, press out the sleeve 15 of the bipod shaft using a mandrel with a diameter of 26 mm (Fig. 124) from the crankcase 1 (see Fig. 123) and using a puller or by boring on a lathe, remove the sleeve 15 of the bipod shaft from cover 2, if wear is detected on the roller 22 of the bipod shaft, drill one of the ends of the roller axis 21 with a drill with a diameter of 9 mm to a depth of 4...5 mm and using a mandrel with a diameter of 7...8 mm , resting on the bottom of the drilled hole, knock out or press out the roller axis. Then, using the round rod as a lever, remove the roller from the groove of the bipod.

Assembling the steering mechanism should be carried out in the reverse order, guided by the following instructions:

when replacing bushings 15 of the steering bipod shaft, expand the pressed-in new bushings to a diameter of 23+0.050-0.080 mm. Press the cuffs of the steering gear housing using a mandrel with a diameter of 23 mm (see Fig. 105, a). Moreover, the cuff of the bipod shaft is pressed with a spring inside the crankcase, and the worm cuff is pressed out with a spring (see Fig. 123);

Adjust the tightening of the worm bearings 9 before assembling and installing the steering bipod shaft with the roller into the crankcase. To do this, tighten the adjusting plug 6 as far as it will go, then release it until the worm rotates freely without axial play in the bearings. Screw lock nut 7 onto the adjustment plug and make sure that the adjustment has not changed. The tightening of the bearings is controlled by measuring the torque required to rotate the shaft. The tightening torque should be 3...5 kgf-m.

To ensure the proper (not exceeding 0.05 mm) gap between the head of the adjusting screw 12 and the washer 13 in the T-shaped groove of the head of the bipod shaft 20, screw 12 and washer 13 are matched to each other.

There should be no noticeable gap between the walls of the T-shaped groove and the head of the screw 12 with washer 13, and at the same time the screw should rotate freely from the force of the fingers. If the screw or groove of the bipod shaft head is significantly worn out, it is necessary to measure the dimensions of the groove and screw head and make a thickened hardened washer (hardness HRC 45...50).

The steering bipod shaft must be assembled with the steering gear housing cover in the following sequence: putting washer 13 on the end of the adjusting screw 12, screw the screw into the threaded hole of the cover 2 so that you can use a screwdriver to unscrew the screw with the bipod shaft on. Then insert the head of the screw 12 with washer 13 into the T-shaped groove of the head of the bipod shaft 20. Lightly lubricate the bipod shaft with engine oil and, rotating the screw with a screwdriver, insert the cylindrical end of the steering bipod shaft 20 until it stops into the hole in the sleeve 15 in the cover, then screw the nut // onto the adjusting screw with five or six threads.

To prevent damage to the edge of the cuff 17 of the bipod shaft by the sharp edges of the shaft spline, before installing the shaft into the crankcase, it is necessary to press the edge of the oil seal cuff using tool 1 (Fig. 125).

Rice. 123. Steering mechanism: 1 - crankcase; 2 - crankcase cover; 3 - crankcase mounting bolt; 4 - terminal connection bolt; 5 - steering shaft; 6 - adjusting plug; 7, 11 - locknuts; 8 - bearing; 9 - steering gear worm; 10 - cover bolt; 12 - adjusting screw; 13 - adjusting washer; 14 - plug; 15 - bushing; 16 - seal; 17 - cuff; 18, 23 - washers; 19 - nut; 20 - bipod shaft; 21 - roller axis; 22 - roller; 24 - bolt; 25 - adjusting washers.

Rice. 124. Mandrel for pressing out the steering bipod shaft bushing: 1 - mandrel; 2 - handle

Rice. 125. Device for pressing the edge of the cuff of the bipod when assembling the steering gear: 1 - device; 2 - cuff; 3 - crankcase; 4 - bipod shaft.

The bipod shaft is set to the middle position and, by rotating the adjusting screw 12 (see Fig. 123), select the gap in the engagement of the worm and the roller. The backlash-free engagement of the worm with the roller must be within the range of rotation of the worm at an angle of 45° to the right and left, counting from the average position corresponding to the average position of the bipod. This is ensured by adjusting the lateral clearance in the meshing of the worm pair using an adjusting screw. The found position of screw 12 is fixed by tightening lock nut 11.

You should be careful not to tighten the worm bearings too tightly, as well as to avoid too little lateral clearance in the engagement of the worm with the roller. This leads to accelerated wear of the worm and roller or destruction of their working surfaces. In addition, the “tight” steering mechanism counteracts the automatic stabilization of the front wheels and thereby worsens the vehicle’s stability, which results in poor road holding. With proper assembly and adjustment of the steering mechanism, the torque on the steering wheel rim required to rotate the steering shaft should not exceed 1 kgf-cm.

Connect the steering gear shaft 5 to the worm 9 so that the splined part of the worm fits into the shaft sleeve until the groove on the worm aligns with the hole in the connecting sleeve. Screw bolt 4 into the shaft sleeve (tightening torque 3...3.5 kgf-m).

Dismantling and assembling steering joints. When disassembling the steering gear, it is necessary to unscrew and unscrew the nut securing the ball pin (Fig. 126).

Rice. 126. Steering drive: 1 - transverse rod locknut; 2 - lock nut of the transverse link (left-hand thread); 3 - transverse thrust; 4 - pendulum lever; 5 - nut; 6 - protective cover; 7 - thrust washer; 8 - wire; 9 - tip; 10 - seal; 11 - plug; 12 - retaining ring; 13 - spring; 14 - pressure insert; 15 - liner; 16 - finger; 17 - steering knuckle; 18 - left steering rod; 19 - bipod of the steering mechanism; 20 - hole for turning the rod when adjusting wheel toe; 21 - turn limiters

Remove the ball pin using a puller or apply several sharp blows with a hammer to the side surfaces of the swing arm head. Then, if necessary, lightly tap the end of the pin with a hammer through a copper or aluminum rod to knock the pin out of the conical hole. The steering rods can be removed together with the pendulum arm and steering bipod. To do this, it is necessary to remove the ball pins from the heads of the swing arms (as described above), remove the bracket with the pendulum lever and remove the steering bipod.

Then you should unroll the wire 8 and remove the protective cover with thrust washer 7 from the ball pin. Use a screwdriver to remove the bitumen mastic from the plug and, squeezing the antennae of the locking ring 12, remove plug II, spring 13, pressure liner 14, ball pin 16 with support liners 15.

The steering gear is assembled in the reverse order. Before assembly, wash and check the condition of the parts.

If the pin head does not have deep signs of corrosion and wear, it can be used for further use. Light blackness and rust can be removed by cleaning the head with fine glass sandpaper and oil.

When installing new liners 15 on fingers 16, it is necessary to check the end gap between them. The gap between the liners should be 1.5...2.0 mm. During assembly, lubricate the liners with transmission grease, and also check the presence of the sealing washer 10 and the cleanliness of the groove for the retaining ring 12. If the seal 10 is damaged, it is replaced with a new one. If factory-produced sealing washers are not available, they can be made from oil-resistant sheet rubber 3.5 mm thick.

You should pay attention to the condition of the rubber protective cover, the integrity and correct installation of which determines the further operation of the hinge.

Disassembly and assembly of the pendulum lever. It is recommended to disassemble in the following order:

Rice. 127. Pendulum lever: 1 - cotter pin; 2 - nut; 3, 4, 9 - washers; 5 - bushing; 6, 12 - brackets: 7 - pendulum lever; 8 - pin; 10 - axis; 11 - bolt; 13 - bolt (rotation limiter); 14 - lock nut.

unscrew the two bolts 11 (Fig. 127) securing the pendulum arm to the suspension, separate the pendulum arm assembly with the bracket from the suspension;

Using a hammer and a bit, press out the locking pin 8 from the pendulum lever 7 on the side opposite the pierced end. Holding the head of axle 10 with a wrench, unscrew nut 2, having previously uncoiled it;

remove axle 10, rubber bushings 5, washers and pendulum lever from the bracket.

Before assembly, when installing new bushings, it is necessary to clean the axle with fine sandpaper to remove dirt, rust and burnt rubber. The sequence of assembly operations is as follows: put a washer and a rubber bushing on the axle, insert the pendulum arm into the bracket, and then insert the axle into the hole in the bracket, aligning it with the hole in the pendulum arm;

Place the rubber bushing, support and lock washers on the top of the axle, tighten and cotter the nut. The nut should be tightened enough to ensure that the axle rotates 30° in any direction. The tightening torque on the axle head is 1...2 kgf" m;

Press a pin into the combined hole of the pendulum lever with the axle and open the hole from the press-in side at three points. When pressing the pin, it is necessary to install the pendulum lever so that there is a gap of at least 2 mm between the upper plane of the lever and the bracket (see Fig. 127).

.. 126 127 128 129 ..

Tavria Nova / Slavuta. Signs of timing chain wear

Main signs of timing chain wear

Rough and uneven idling (result of changes in valve timing);

Whirling and rustling noises - especially at idle, when the oil pressure is very low;

Maximum tensioner output (visible after removing the cover);

Worn sprocket teeth (visible after removing the cover);

The corresponding parameters taken from the phase sensor (using a diagnostic tester).

Symptoms of a malfunction are a crackling sound, a clattering sound, a rattling sound when starting a cold engine, the Chek Engine lights up, or the engine simply won’t start.

Premature chain wear due to manufacturing defects. A stretched chain can jump over several links. This results in a drop in power, acceleration dynamics, increased fuel consumption, increased engine noise, etc.
Malfunction of the intake camshaft position regulator. It should be replaced with a new optimized version.
Stuck tensioner. The chain tensioner hangs in one position, as a result the chain does not acquire normal tension.
Thermal protection for the oil pipeline. When replacing a stretched chain, the heat shield wrapped along the oil line to the turbine must be replaced.

If you notice any of these symptoms, you should not delay a trip to a car service center, since a broken timing chain in some cases can lead to a major overhaul of the engine.

How often should the timing chain be replaced?
It all depends on the specific engine model. Each engine model has its own standards for replacing the timing chain. On average, the timing chain needs to be changed every 100 thousand km, but this is a very average value; for some models it may be less, while for others it may be much more. Most modern cars, when the timing chain approaches a condition requiring replacement, display a check engine error, so you will know exactly when it is time to change the timing chain.

Tips for operating and replacing timing drive

In most new cars, the life of the chain is less than the life of the engine;

Pay attention to unusual noises, especially after starting;

Avoid extending the oil change period - the more often the better;

Normal oil pressure guarantees the operation of the chain tensioner;

If you change a chain, be sure to replace the gears (sprockets) and guides - they also wear out;

When replacing, use original components or high-quality substitutes.