Toyota RAV4 2.2 TD 4WD
Toyota RAV4 2.2TD 4WD 5dr. SUV, 150 hp, 6automatic transmission, 2015 - the fuel pump does not pump gasoline
Fuel pressure regulator malfunctionsFuel pump malfunctions (does not pump gasoline)
One of the most important elements of the power supply system of an injection gasoline engine is an electric fuel pump, which is located in the car's fuel tank. The fuel pump pumps fuel into the system from the gas tank, creating a certain pressure.
Auto repair professionals identify the following common fuel system problems that are related to the fuel pump:
The fuel pump pumps poorly and does not create the necessary pressure;
the fuel pump does not pump when the ignition is turned on;
Given that the fuel pump is an electromechanical device, the most common fuel pump malfunctions are related to both mechanical and electrical parts. Next, we will consider what signs indicate a breakdown of the fuel pump and why the fuel pump stops pumping partially or completely.
Signs of a bad fuel pump
The main symptoms of the failure of the fuel pump, as well as failures in its operation, are:
The car starts with difficulty, the engine is unstable, there are dips, jerks when you press the gas pedal, etc .;
the pump does not pump after the ignition is turned on, the starter does not turn and the fuel pump does not pump, the engine does not start;
There have also been cases when the fuel pump stops pumping right on the move. The engine in such a situation begins to malfunction and stalls immediately after the remaining gasoline in the fuel line is used up. The problem can occur both regularly and periodically.
The fuel pump does not pump: causes and diagnosis
To begin with, if the gas tank is full, the battery is charged, the spark plugs are dry and there is a spark on them, the starter turns the engine normally, but the engine does not seize, then you should pay attention to the fuel pump. A common problem is that there is no power to the fuel pump after the ignition is turned on. In a similar way, the malfunction also manifests itself in motion, when the power to the fuel pump is lost and the engine suddenly stalls.
An equally important point is how much the fuel pump pumps. In other words, the pump may hum and buzz (power is supplied), but not create the desired pressure in the fuel line. The pressure in the fuel system with a working fuel pump must be more than 3 bar (depending on the specific car model). The indicated pressure is accumulated in the fuel rail and has an indicator of 300 kPa and above.
To check, it is necessary to measure the pressure in the fuel rail with a pressure gauge, taking into account the indicators that are the norm for a particular car model. For example, injection pressure when the ignition is turned on is 3 atmospheres, at idle, the indicator is 2.5 atmospheres, when you press the gas 2.5-3 atmospheres. This method will help to accurately determine:
Malfunction of the fuel pressure regulator in the rail;
breakdown of the fuel pump or a noticeable decrease in its performance due to wear;
severe contamination of filters (fuel filter and / or fuel pump mesh);
In the second case, when you press the gas, the pressure does not increase, in the latter case, the pressure gauge needle rises, but very slowly or jerkily.
A decrease in the pressure indicator below the norm will lead to the fact that the engine may not start or start with difficulty, triple, twitch, work unstably and with failures. If this happens due to the fault of the pump, and not the fuel filter, then there is a high probability that the fuel pump coarse cleaning mesh is clogged. In this case, there is no need to change the fuel pump itself, since it will be enough to replace or even clean the mesh.
If there is a suspicion that there is no voltage to the fuel pump, there is a way to quickly check. It is enough to turn the ignition key and listen, since at the moment the key is turned, a slight hum of the fuel pump should be heard. If such a buzzing is not heard, then there is no power to the fuel pump, there are problems with the wiring, etc.
We add that this method of determining the operation of the pump by sound is not suitable for all cars. On some models (especially the premium class), the sound insulation is at a high level and the fuel pump turns on immediately after opening the driver's door, and not when the key is turned in the lock. In this case, it may seem that the fuel pump does not work when the ignition is turned on, while
the sound of the pump can simply not be heard.
Also in the general list of possible reasons why the fuel pump does not pump, the following are noted:
Failure of the fuel pump fuse;
breakdown of the fuel pump relay;
problems with the "mass" of the fuel pump;
malfunction of the electric motor of the fuel pump;
oxidation or a hall of contacts and terminals of the fuel pump;
the fuel pump itself is faulty;
Wiring to fuel pump
On most cars, the wiring to the fuel pump consists of three wires: "plus", "minus", as well as a wire for indicating the amount of fuel in the gas tank. If the fuel pump is not pumping, then the cause may be a lack of power.
To check the power to the fuel pump, it is enough to take a 12-volt light bulb by supplying power to it from the external connector of the fuel pump. After turning the ignition, the control lamp should light up. If this does not happen, then the problem is in the external circuits. When the lamp comes on, it is necessary to check the internal contacts of the fuel pump.
To check the external wiring, alternately connect the positive and negative contacts that are removed from the fuel pump power connector to the pump ground. Contacts must also be connected to the fuel pump relay. If you place a negative contact on the ground, after which the ignition is turned on and the light comes on, then this means that this contact is faulty. In the event that the light bulb did not light up, then problems with the "plus" are obvious. If you place a contact on the relay and the light turns on, it is likely that the wire is damaged on the segment that connects the relay and the fuel pump itself.
Fuel pump electric motor
If checking the pressure in the fuel rail and external wiring to the fuel pump gives positive results, then the fuel pump motor should be checked. The specified electric motor is responsible for the circulation of gasoline inside the fuel pump.
During the check, it must be borne in mind that the terminals on the fuel pump themselves tend to oxidize, as a result of which power is not supplied and the pump does not pump. In this case, the motor is working, but the terminals need to be cleaned or soldered.
To believe the fuel pump motor, you will need to fix the wires of the control lamp to the cleaned and serviceable terminal of the electric motor, after which the ignition should be turned on. If the light comes on, it indicates that the fuel pump motor is not working.
Fuel pump ground contact
Problems with the mass of the fuel pump may be indicated by a fuel level sensor that does not work correctly. The mass may be poorly fixed, in this case the fuel pump does not pump fuel. The ground wire is usually located under the dashboard and runs through the cabin. It is necessary to find the indicated wire, check and clean all the contacts, then securely fix the mass on the fuel pump.
Fuel pump relay
The fuel pump relay is often mounted next to the fuel pump ground, that is, under the dashboard. A normally operating relay after turning on the ignition in a couple of seconds allows the pump to create pressure in the system and immediately turns off.
At the moment the ignition key is turned, the driver hears a characteristic click (the relay is turned on), then a similar click will indicate that the fuel pump relay is turned off. If such clicks are not heard, this indicates a malfunction of the relay or its contacts. The best solution is to replace the fuel pump relay with a new or known-good device. We add that the cost of spare parts is quite affordable.
Fuel pump fuse
During diagnostics, be sure to check the fuel pump fuse. The specified 15 A fuse is usually located in the fuse box in the engine compartment and is labeled FUEL PUMP, which means fuel pump in translation.
The fuel pump fuse must be pulled out and inspected. The integrity of the contact will indicate that the device is normal. A damaged contact will indicate that the fuel pump fuse has blown. In this case, you need to install a new fuse, which has a very low cost (as in the situation with the fuel pump relay).
Other causes of fuel pump malfunctions
Quite often, unprofessional installation of additional electrical equipment or security anti-theft systems leads to the fact that the power to the fuel pump is lost due to reversed contacts or other connection errors.
Also, one should not exclude the possibility that a failure occurred in the car alarm or security complex, after which the fuel pump power is blocked. In other words, the alarm blocks the engine from starting.
Finally, we add that the gasoline pump in the gas tank is immersed in gasoline, in which it is actively cooled. The habit of driving with an empty tank can quickly disable the fuel pump electric motor, as it burns.
Specifications
Technical parameters of Toyota RAV4 2.2 TD 4WD / Toyota RAV-4 in the back of 5 doors. SUV with 150 hp engine, 6 automatic transmission manufactured since 2015
Rav4 has been on the Russian market for 6 years, but during this time it has not been involved in any scandal, recall campaign, mass marriage or childhood illnesses. Even the previous generations of Camry and Corolla no-no yes threw up the hassle of bloating paint or a leaking roof, but the Rav4 did not.
This is partly due to the work on the bugs that had to be done after the predecessor of the CA40. Here he deserves cuffs and a slap in the face for the oak suspension and slow-witted variator. The fourth generation "Rav 4" has nothing to complain about. Why? We'll tell you in the review.
Hypostasis Toyota Rav4 (CA40)
Rav4 IV generation debuted on the Russian market in early 2013, in 2016 it underwent restyling. And it was just restyling, not modernization. Body panels, optics, partly interior details have changed. Technically, the entire life cycle of the Rav4 has passed with the same set of units.
Also CA40 changed registration. Pre-styling versions went to Russia from abroad. After the upgrade, full-scale assembly, along with welding and body painting, began to be carried out in St. Petersburg.
There was no drop in quality or people's love due to the move. The buyer did not seem to notice the change in the plant, so imported and localized copies cost about the same on the secondary market.
Toyota Rav4 engines
Rav4 in the fourth body received the same engines as its predecessors: gasoline - atmospheric, diesel - supercharged:
- 2.0 l (146 hp) - simple, reliable, but sluggish;
- 2.5 liters (180 hp) - already more cheerful, mainly due to a normal machine that does not steal dynamics;
- 2.2 liters (150 hp) - very fine, flexible and economical, but expensive.
Paired with the last two motors, a full-fledged six-speed automatic works, with a junior engine - a variator. Mechanics are still found with a two-liter unit, but rarely - about 5% on the secondary (242 out of 4,287).
The automatic machine is less common than the variator. For some reason, Russian Rav4 buyers disliked diesel. Heavy fuel options account for only about 10% of supply.
A real rarity and basic monodrive versions. Of the current offers on the secondary market, only 15% (622 units) have front axle drive. Everything else is 4x4, which in Rav4 is implemented through an interaxle clutch.
Rav4 and off-road
All-wheel drive control is entirely given to electronics - the owner is not allowed to interfere in the distribution of torque for the sake of fuel economy. But it will turn out to forcibly block the clutch with a strictly 50:50 thrust distribution. The rest of the time, the automation itself decides on which axle how much thrust to direct. And usually does it prudently and in a timely manner. Rav 4 does not have such problems as its predecessors, when the front end is already slipping, and the back does not think to connect. Automation reacts with lightning speed.
But you shouldn’t meddle in more or less serious off-road: Rav4 turned out to be geometrically heterogeneous. On the one hand, short overhangs in front and behind play in his favor. On the other hand, the entire exhaust line, including the muffler can, hangs treacherously low. That and look you will tear out a snag from those that are stronger.
In general, the latest Rav4 is very ambiguous in terms of adaptability to different surfaces. For example, the basic two-liter versions are more "jumpy" on uneven pavement. Diesels in the same conditions are driven better, mainly due to other suspension settings, selected for a heavier unit.
Therefore, if you want driving comfort, look for a diesel version with a gun. If you want to feel the road with all your senses, look at the bases.
Toyota Rav4 at home
The colossal difference between the IV generation and its predecessors is the dimensions and geometry of the cabin. Not that it used to be cramped and tight, but in this generation it surpassed both itself and many competitors like the Ford Kuga. The rear sofa gives a masterful supply of space for all three passengers, and the trunk (500+ liters), although it suffered from the transfer of the spare tire from the fifth door to the floor, still accepts both lengthy and oversized cargo.
And every little thing too. Following the example of older comrades like Audi, this Rav4 received a bunch of accessories for the trunk such as nets and guides / limiters. Everything together works to ensure that oversized items do not fly through the trunk from wall to wall, but are securely fixed.
In terms of options, restyled versions are cooler and more packaged than early copies. They have an advanced surround view system that draws a beautiful 3D projection of the car and its surroundings, allowing you to see all the blind spots on the screen. They are drawn, of course, so-so, because the resolution of the cameras is low, and it is hardly worth chasing such options.
Very late versions of Rav4 (after 2016) have a media system with Yandex services. The same "Maps" in this version are much more detailed and accurate than the standard navigation system, which migrated to Rav4 from the early "zero".
Otherwise, the equipment of pre-styling and restyled cars is no different. Both there and there there is climate control, a USB port with the function of recharging the connected gadget and a simple on-board computer. So if the price gap between the options you like is large, you can safely take older and cheaper ones. In terms of functionality, you won't lose anything.
Toyota Rav4: who is it for?
And why "he" and not "she"? Previous generations of "Rafik" had a reputation as a ladies' man, not least because of his pretty, rounded appearance and easy-going nature. By the fourth generation there was a reassessment of values.
First, he got stronger, coarsened, matured and sharpened; secondly, it has become more versatile as a car. And passengers of all ages, builds and heights feel good in it, and you can carry loads, and you can enjoy driving. He steers, makes jokes, and in certain situations even gets up and drives sideways, and boys already appreciate this.
So, if you were born a man and used to be ashamed to look in the direction of Rav4, now you can not be ashamed. He is moderately brutal, knows how to drive and is suitable for a family.
Weaknesses of the Toyota Rav4
There is no obvious crime behind this generation of Rafik, as we have already said. But there are still certain nuances, judging by the reviews of the owners of Rav 4.
For example, the knock of the rear suspension arms due to the unsuccessful design of the silent blocks. The problem was solved in the very first years of production by a warranty replacement of the assembly assembly: both levers and silent blocks.
In 2015-2016, Rav4 owners massively complained about the crooked operation of the fifth door automation: it either opened with a button or not. The problem was solved by replacing the control element. Again, under warranty.
The owners complain massively about the quality of the plastic. The steering wheel peels off first - moreover, at relatively short runs. Then the interior begins to creak and knock - “praise” to the oak plastic trim, for which the Rav4 endlessly listened to the claims of reviewers even at the time of its appearance. No wonder they scolded! Soft overlays or interior details made entirely of soft polymers begin to “breathe” much later, and they look more pleasant. But this is not about Rav4.
What to take and how much
According to aggregators, prices for a used Rav4 in the fourth body range from 850 thousand to 1.7 million rubles. The average price is 1.2 million without a pronounced downward trend. For the year it falls by an average of 7%, and this is good in terms of savings.
The choice is so great and seductive that, knowing about the impeccable reputation and a small number of minuses, it is tempting to take the first Rav 4 that comes across. But it is necessary to check even the "sinless". Here, for example, is a relatively fresh two-year-old specimen:
Checking through website showed that "youth" plays against "Rafik" - he is on bail.
Pass by if you don't want to lose your money and car.
Here is an older and cheaper example:
This Rav4 is being sold with unpaid fines, restrictions and one accident:
In general, the IV generation Rav4 is one of the most preferred crossovers in terms of reliability for moderate money. In order not to fly with the purchase, check the history of the car.
Have you had experience owning a Toyota Rav4 IV? What pleased and upset the car? Tell us about it in the comments.
Any car will always have a few interesting features or that many owners often have no idea about. Some of them are described in the bowels of the instruction manual, and some can only be learned by experience. Today we will reveal the secrets of the Toyota RAV4 crossover.
Let's start with the fact that now any car is equipped with daytime running lights. And - not an exception. But not many people know that if the parking brake is activated, then the lights will not burn.
And here is a piece of advice for those whose “rafis” are equipped with the function and start the engine from the button ...
The next secret for owners of cars with a sunroof. After pressing the power button once, the sunroof will not fully open. To open it completely, you need to press the same button again.
And the Toyota Touch 2 multimedia system with a 7-inch screen has ... a drawback. The fact that two devices can be connected to it simultaneously via Bluetooth is certainly a plus, but which device will be preferred as the main one is completely incomprehensible. So, if one of the smartphones is connected via a cable, then there will be no such problems - it will become the main one.
Well, how do you start? Want more discoveries? They are in the photo gallery below.
Perhaps we have not listed all the features of the "rafi", besides, we considered only the latest generation of the model. If you know of any other RAV4 features that we have not mentioned, write in the comments. And it is not necessary to speak only about the current generation.
- After each repair of the brakes, in which the system was opened, air may be in the pipelines. In this case, the system should be bled. Air is in the system if the pressure floats when the brake pedal is pressed. In this case, the leak must be repaired and the brake system must be bled.
- If only one caliper has been replaced or repaired, it is usually sufficient to bleed the air out of it alone.
- Before pumping, unscrew the cap of the expansion tank and fill it with brake fluid up to the maximum mark.
- Only brake system with ABS: Switch on the ignition and depress the brake pedal 4 to 5 times. Then, if necessary, add brake fluid to the reservoir up to the maximum mark. When pumping rear brakes, Leave the ignition on throughout the entire run. Opening the bleed valve will turn on the ABS hydraulic pump and build up pressure.
- Ask an assistant to pump the brake pedal until pressure is created, which is felt by increasing resistance when the pedal is depressed.
- When sufficient pressure has been built up, fully depress the brake pedal and hold it in this position.
- When the pressure drops, immediately close the valve. On models with ABS, the fluid pressure is unlikely to drop due to the pump being on, in this case, close the bleed valve after 2 seconds so that the hydraulic pump is not damaged.
- Repeat the bleeding process until pressure is built up. Squeeze the pedal down and lock in this position. Open the bleed bolt, when the pressure drops, close the valve.
- Repeat this process on one cylinder until air bubbles disappear from the brake fluid flowing into the bottle.
- Then, with the pedal depressed, tighten the air bleed bolt with force 10 Nm.
- Remove the hose, put the boot on the valve.
- Bleed the rest of the cylinders in the same way.
- After bleeding, screw the cap onto the expansion tank. If necessary, add brake fluid up to the "MAX" mark.
Bleeding the hydraulic system of the brakes
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Brake fluid is poisonous. Rinse the affected parts with copious amounts of cold running water and seek immediate medical attention if the liquid gets into the mouth or eyes. Some types of brake fluid are flammable and may ignite on contact with hot components. Take appropriate fire safety measures. Brake fluid is aggressive to paint and plastics - if it comes into contact with such surfaces, immediately wash off the fluid with plenty of water. In addition, the fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from the air) - old fluid may be contaminated with water and unusable. When adding or replacing fluid to the system, use the recommended type of fluid from a freshly opened sealed container. |
MODELS NOT EQUIPPED WITH ABS
general description
The correct functioning of the hydraulic brake system is only possible if its components are free from air. Bleed the system to remove air.
During the bleeding procedure, add only clean, fresh brake fluid of the type specified in the Specifications. Never reuse liquid.
If there is any doubt about the type of fluid filled into the system, flush the system with clean fluid and replace all seals.
If the brake fluid level in the master cylinder has dropped, locate and repair the cause of the leak before proceeding.
Park the vehicle on level ground (not on a slope), turn off the ignition and select 1st gear or reverse. Block the wheels and release the handbrake.
Make sure all tubing and hoses are securely attached, couplers are tight, and bleeders are closed. Remove dust caps and clean dirt from bleeder fittings.
Unscrew the brake fluid reservoir cap and bring the fluid level up to the “MAX” line. Screw on the cap and be sure to keep the fluid level above the “MIN” line throughout the procedure, otherwise air will again enter the system.
On sale there is a number of devices for pumping the brake system by one person. It is recommended to use one of these kits, as they greatly simplify the work, and also reduce the risk of air and fluid escaping from the system being pulled back into the system. If such a device is not available, use the basic bleeding method (for two people) detailed below.
If a tool is used, prepare the vehicle as described above and follow the kit manufacturer's instructions. The procedure can vary considerably depending on the type of device used, its main course is also described below.
Whichever method is used, follow the correct bleeding sequence.
Pumping sequence
If components of only one of the circuits were disconnected or removed (for example, a caliper or a working brake cylinder), only this circuit needs to be pumped.
If the entire system is to be bled, proceed in the following sequence:
a) Rear right brake.
b) Front left brake.
c) Rear left brake mechanism.
d) Front right brake.
Pumping - the main method (for two people)
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Bleeding with non-return valve tool
Pumping under pressure
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All Methods
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MODELS EQUIPPED WITH ABS
Before bleeding the brake hydraulic system on models with ABS, it is necessary to perform preparatory procedures and take special precautions. These procedures vary depending on which part of the system has been disconnected.
The information regarding the conventional brake system (other than bleeding under pressure) applies to models equipped with ABS. However, on these models, a different bleeding sequence is used:
a) Left front brake
b) Right rear brake
c) Right front brake
d) Left rear brake
In addition to this, the following bleeding procedures are used.
Bleeding after disconnecting the wheel cylinder/caliper coupler
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Bleeding the separation field of pressure regulating couplings
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Bleeding After Disconnecting the Hydraulic Unit Coupling
