It doesn't matter if you have a bike, a car, furniture, or anything else. But you definitely had such a situation when the nut was unscrewed on its own. What needs to be done so that the nut does not unscrew? You will learn more about this in the video tutorial.
You can use a traditional nut and bolt, but it won't save you from getting loose. Using a torque wrench, tighten the nut by hand, but with high vibrations, it will begin to unscrew. To hold, we need to tighten another lock nut from above. With the help of a lock nut, we can stop the unwinding of a regular nut, but this does not give a 100% guarantee. It is a disposable product.
You can use a traditional grower washer, it is disposable and can be unscrewed from vibration. It is possible to replace a regular nut with a flanged nut with a wide bearing surface and special notches. They dig into the support pad, but a nut with a flange does not give us a 100% guarantee.
toothed washers
One of the most popular and inexpensive solutions, there will be a toothed washer. It has a reliable contact with the entire surface and a low price. The main problem that arises is that you can overtighten and thereby flatten the teeth. Thus, they turn into an ordinary flat washer.
Serrated washers can only be used up to the specified torque. Highly important point when using, do not overtighten the nut and thereby smooth the washer. low price on the toothed washers will help to solve the local loosening of the nut. Only two options will give us a 100% guarantee.
wedge washer
The wedge washer is a system consisting of two washers. These washers are used in pairs and tightened to the required torque. The trick is that the angle of the inner wedges is higher than the angle of the thread. In this connection, spontaneous unscrewing becomes impossible.
In order to unscrew the nut, we need to make more efforts than when tightening. The wedge washer gives a 100% guarantee against spontaneous unscrewing.
Anaerobic thread lockers
Another reliable and convenient way fixing the nut, is the use of an anaerobic thread lock. To do this, we need to apply liquid to the place of the thread where the nut will be. It is quite flowy and spreads easily over the bolt.
We screw the nut onto the bolt and wait, nothing else needs to be done. After some time, the latch will harden and the structure will not be collapsible. In order to unscrew, we need to heat up or make more efforts while working with a key.
We hope this video the lesson was useful and interesting. Write your comments, ask questions with pleasure we will answer. Recommend to your friends and acquaintances.
Author: elremont from 26-06-2015* lock nuts / bolts *
Fixing the nut in some cases is very important. So I'll list a few fixing methods for you and show you exactly how they are used. Is not complete guide, there may be more methods, but these are the majority of the methods that I know about.
*Lock-nut*
The basic way to secure a standard nut is to thread the nut onto the bolt and then tighten to the specified torque with a torque wrench, but for this demonstration we will just hand tighten it and you could use a counter nut.
That is, the locknut is designed to fix the nut and stop it from moving. After you tighten the first nut, the second nut or locknut will be placed behind the first and then we will tighten it. This will stop the nut from loosening. AT extreme cases, with high vibration, this type of nuts can actually come loose. This happens quite often when using two regular nuts, although you can buy a specially designed locknut like this one, made specifically for this purpose.
* thread locking compound *
You can use thread locking compound. It is a highly fluid anaerobic liquid. Since it displaces the air around it, it is actually used as an adhesive. You simply smear it onto the thread where you want it to be. Then you tighten the nut... Tighten and then wait for it to dry, this will compress the nut and stop it from moving. Thread locking compound is one of the most common ways to secure a nut or bolt. This is very effective method. There are quite a few various brands compounds, so you have to make sure it suits you. Some of them are so strong that you may need an impact wrench to loosen them. Loctite is a very common brand. I'm sure most people have seen it. So this is a quick and easy way to fix a nut.
* Spring washers *
There are also spring washers, they are made of spring steel, and they are designed so that when the nut is tightened, a load constantly acts on it, which can prevent it from unscrewing. Usually a spring washer is used along with a regular washer. First put the usual, and then the spring. They don’t always put a regular washer when using a spring washer, it depends on the specific location. After that, we bait the nut, and tighten it to the specified torque. This is a very common thread locking method, but in extreme cases, high vibration can cause the connection to become loose. I saw this, the spring washer broke into several parts, which meant that the nut could now be unscrewed. But in most cases, such a washer presses on the nut, which makes it difficult to unscrew it. Therefore, once everything is tightened, it is difficult to unscrew it. And it will work, but it's not ideal when strong vibration, vibration weakens this connection.
* Serrated washers *
Serrated washers can be used to prevent some nuts and bolts from coming loose, but they aren't perfect either. The problem is that if you tighten them too much, it can flatten the teeth and they end up just turning into regular washers. Once flat they are pretty much useless. But you can use them in certain circumstances, they are very popular in washing machines because they are very cheap. So you just put the washer on, screw on the nut, and turn it in to the specified torque with a torque wrench. It is important not to overtighten them so as not to flatten the washer, otherwise you will end up with something like this. As I said, they are very cheap, which is why they are used in many washing machines and the like. They can prevent nuts and bolts from loosening, but this is a local solution.
* Self-locking nut *
The self-locking nut has a nylon ring at the top that catches the bolt when you tighten it. That is, you can start turning quite easily, just like a normal nut, but once you get to the nylon, then it becomes difficult to turn, you will need a tool to screw the nut onto the bolt. This can take quite a bit of time because the wrench will need to be turned all the way, with a regular nut you can just turn it down quite easily by hand. So self-locking nuts are very useful, they are used in many places, but it takes a lot of time to turn them. Self-locking nuts are useful, you will find them in all machines, but they are not very suitable for critical machinery, as they can be loosened by vibration.
* Deformed knot *
Sometimes you can't see a nut with a deformed thread on the inside, it's actually only slightly deformed, so it's pretty easy to screw it on initially until you get to the deformed spot, and then it's very tight. You will then need a wrench or socket to be able to tighten the nut. After you have tightened everything holds very well, but in extreme conditions, again at high vibration, they can be weakened.
* Nord washers *
They are unique in that they have cams on front side washers. They should be placed in pairs, like this. That is, you put two pieces together with the cams out and tighten the bolt on them. You can put a nut. Tighten to the specified torque. Once the nut is tightened, these two washers will grab each other and the joint will be very difficult to unscrew. They are very good at vibrating. It is highly unlikely that any of these washers, if properly seated, will come loose with vibration.
* Castellated nut *
They are often used in critical important mechanisms such as airplanes. On board the aircraft, after tightening it, a piece of wire will be threaded through it, and this will prevent the nut from ever being unscrewed. So, to use one of them, you bait it on a bolt, tighten it to the specified torque, or as long as it drags. Now I will drill through the bolt with a small drill bit. But such a drill better fit for larger nuts and bolts than this one. It's stainless steel, so I'll work carefully and slowly. I'll put some more lube on the bit. Once you've done that, you can put the pin in and wrap it around and it won't loosen the nut until you pull the pin out.
Hope this demo was helpful to you. I have covered some of the methods you can use to stop nuts and bolts from loosening. There are also washers that I don't have, but it's just a washer and a tab that flexes and prevents the nut or bolt from coming loose.
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Tighten nuts TIGHTEN NUTS. TIGHTEN NUTS. Prost. Express. Establish strict order, discipline; taunt someone. He looked into the hall. The cry of an elderly director was heard from the stage, his voice slurred echo under the arches of the auditorium. It was clear that the director did not know how to tighten the screws in his loose team(L. Volchkova. Theatrical history).
Phraseological dictionary of the Russian literary language. - M.: Astrel, AST. A. I. Fedorov. 2008 .
See what "Tighten nuts" is in other dictionaries:
TIGHTEN THE NUTS
TIGHTEN THE NUT- who Strongly increase the requirements, become more stringent. This means that a person, a group of persons, a social organization (X) seeks to establish a strict order, severe discipline, oppressing, suppressing the freedom of those who interfere with this, oppose it. ... ... Phraseological dictionary of the Russian language
Tighten- I carry. transition 1. Tightly connect the ends of something, tying, fixing them. ott. Tightly tighten something, tightly pressing, pressing something to something. 2. Tighten, tighten bolts, nuts, etc. to the end, to failure. 3. Tight fit ... ... Modern explanatory dictionary of the Russian language Efremova
TIGHTEN NUTS. TIGHTEN NUTS. Prost. Express. Establish strict order, discipline; taunt someone. He looked into the hall. The cry of an elderly director was heard from the stage, his voice slurred echo under the arches of the auditorium. It's clear… … Phraseological dictionary of the Russian literary language
Tighten / tighten (tighten / tighten) nuts- Simple. To establish strict order and discipline where l. FSRYA, 101; BTS, 328; BMS 1998, 106; Mokienko 1990, 129; F 1, 206 ...
hydraulic wrenches- To tie? Hydraulic wrenches are the most powerful technical solution for working with bolted connections. The most advanced GK are hydraulic torque wrenches, with their help you can unscrew and tighten nuts up to 300 mm ... Wikipedia
Hotel "At the Dead Climber" (film)- Film RusNaz = Hotel "At the dead climber" OrigNaz = Hukkunud Alpinisti Hotell Picture = Genre = fantasy detective Director = Grigory Kromanov Actors = Uldis Pucitis Yuri Yarvet Lembit Peterson Niole Ozhelite imdb id = 0204526 ... ... Wikipedia
Ide- Leuciscus (L.) This is undoubtedly one of the most famous fish. The ide is easily distinguished by its thick body, rather wide, shortened head, small slanting mouth and color of the fins. He looks more like a chub than anything, but ... ... Living and catching freshwater fish
SCREW- Big nut. Jarg. they say Shuttle. iron. State. Maksimov, 39. Nut weakened someone. 1. Simple. Who l. very scared, frightened. FSRYA, 101; Shevchenko 2002, 154. 2. Jarg. they say Shuttle. About diarrhea. Nikolsky, 32. The nut is weak in someone. Prost. Who has l... Big dictionary of Russian sayings
First about the problem in general -
Sometimes, in order to unscrew a large nut without a suitable key, it is easier to adapt what is at hand for this than to run around the shops in search of a key. I myself use such a not tricky device that grabs and unscrews any pipes and large nuts. At the same time, all that is needed for him is a piece of a profile pipe of 30-40 centimeters and a motorcycle chain. Suitable for bicycles for small sizes. We weld the chain with one end to the pipe, and the other, tightly rounding the nut, we run it inward. We make a hall and the "clamp" is tightened, and the pipe acts as a lever. After the adjustable and gas wrench, this is the first tool, and the cheapest one is no where else.
Well, for a special case -
I can recommend the following.
The best of all-purpose tools for such interesting places is a plumbing wrench with a self-locking moving jaw. He's good at places like this.
You can bend the lips of a thin wrench (there are such in ZIP sets of motorcycles, bicycles and chainsaws) according to the example in such as shown in the photo below -
For a specific size of a nut located in a hard-to-reach place, you can also make such a "grip" from a metal plate 4-5 mm thick. on the handle and with a collar.
Basically, on the clamping nuts of the mixers, the edges are 32.36 or 38 mm. Car enthusiasts may have a hub wrench of this size, it will also work well for this purpose. It looks like the picture below. In the same figure, I highlighted the key area, which can be taken as an idea homemade key- on a suitable tube, weld two pins that will abut against the corners of the nut faces, and make a knob from below.
Tightening torque front wheel bearing is the force with which the hub nut is tightened. Units of measurement - N * M (or kgf * m).
The front bearings have internal axial clearance, which is necessary for correct operation bearing, namely:
- prevention of angular displacement of the rings;
- reduction of friction of rolling elements and raceways;
- correct distribution of internal stresses on separators and clips.
- thermal expansion compensation.
- increased contact angle for axial loads.
In turn, the axial internal clearance of a double-row ball bearing is the amount by which the inner rings relative to the outer ring move. In order for the axial clearance to be allowed, the ball bearing (or roller bearing) is adjusted, this is done using correct tightening hub nuts.
Familiarize yourself with the mounting and layout of the bearing with the front hub, as well as with the design of the wheel bearing.
The video also shows the process of adjusting the backlash by the level of tension of the locknut:
How much torque to tighten the hub nut on your car?
Torque standards are set for each car, since the tightening force for the locknut depends on the following factors:
- bearing dimensions;
- Regulated axial clearance;
- Diameter and thread pitch;
The following are indicators of effort in order to properly tighten the nut. The base will be gradually replenished.
Advice:
If you did not find the tightening torque values for your car (Skoda Octavia, Subaru models, Toyota Corolla), find the bearing you have installed, and the same thread diameter, or ask a question in the comments.
Tightening torques for the front wheel bearing on the VAZ (LADA)
Tightening torques for front wheel bearing for Ford
Tightening torques for the front wheel bearing on a Chevrolet (Chevrolet)
Tightening torques for the front wheel bearing on Renault (Renault)
| BUT | B | AT | G |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Logan | 175 | M20x1.5 |
| 2 | Megan 1, Megan 2 | 280 | |
| 3 | Sandero | ||
| 4 | Duster 4x4 | 280 | |
| 5 | Duster 4x2 | 175 |
Tightening torques for the front wheel bearing on Daewoo (Daewoo)
How to tighten the hub nut to the right torque
For tightening threaded connections where a specific torque is recommended, use special torque wrenches. Inside the tool there is a dynamometer with a scale or a special device with a limiter, which is triggered when the required tightening force is reached. The keys also come with value intervals, for example 5-25 (minimum 5 Nm, maximum 25 Nm).
Threaded connection tighten until the arrow shows the required value or the limiter works. There are also expensive and accurate analogues - with an electronic display, but for maintenance and repair passenger cars a mechanical option would work.
The photo shows the main types of such keys.
- With preset torque, not adjustable.
- With pre-set torque value, adjustable.
- With torque indicator.
- With digital display of applied torque.
Watch the video on how to use the torque tool:
How to tighten a hub nut without a torque wrench
Many car enthusiasts, when repairing their car, consider it inappropriate to purchase torque wrenches or other specialized devices (pullers, etc.). Available good way to tighten the fastener with the right force without using a dynamometer.
The following fixtures will be required:
1. Ratchet with locknut head;
2. Pipe for extending the ratchet to create the required "shoulder";
3. Roulette;
4. Marker;
5. Cargo, with the ability to hang on the "shoulder" (for example, a weight of 32 kg).
The essence of the method is to calculate the moment according to the formula from the primary classes of physics:
P - applied force, N;
l - distance from the hub to the point of application of force - "shoulder", m.
The finished formula for our case will be as follows:
P1 \u003d (M2 100) / (M1 10) (10 (or 9.8) - translated into Newtons), where
P1 - the distance at which the sinker is attached to the "shoulder" relative to the torsion point, cm;
M1 - weight of cargo, kg;
M2 - required moment, N m.
Calculation example for a Ford Focus 2 car
P1 \u003d (M2 100) / (M1 10) ( 10 (or 9.8) \u003d (45 100) / (32 10) \u003d 4500/320 \u003d 14 cm.
Conclusion: to ensure a tightening torque of 45 N m, a sinker weighing 32 kg is required, located on the pipe at a distance of 14 cm.
Sequencing:
- Pre-tighten the locknut and tighten slightly.
- We mark a distance of 14 cm, where the rod should hang;
- We hold the ratchet with one hand, and with the other we hang the sinker, thereby tightening the mount;
- The operation continues until the fasteners under the weight no longer tighten, which means that we have reached the required force. Accuracy +/- 5%.
Useful videos
How to do without a torque wrench:
Proper hub nut tightening:
