Buying a radio-controlled device today is not a problem. And a car, and a train, and a helicopter, and a quadcopter. But it is much more interesting to try to create a radio-controlled car with your own hands. We will provide you with two detailed instructions.

Model #1: What will we need?

To create this radio-controlled model you will need:

• A model car (you can even take an ordinary Chinese one from the market).
• ARU auto.
• Solenoid for opening the doors of a VAZ car, battery 2400 A / h, 12 V.
• A piece of rubber.
• Radiator.
• Electrical measuring instruments.
• Soldering iron, solder to it, as well as plumbing tools.
• Reducer.
• Collector engine (for example, from a toy helicopter).

Model No. 1: instructions for creating

And now let's start creating a radio-controlled car with our own hands:

Model No. 2: necessary components

To create a car you will need:

• Automobile model.
• Spare parts from an unnecessary collection machine, printer (gears, traction, iron drives).
• Copper tubes (sold in hardware stores).
• Soldering iron.
• Autoenamel.
• Bolts.
• Necessary electronics.
• Battery.

Model #2: Creating a Device

We begin to make a radio-controlled car with our own hands:

In conclusion, we present to you one of the drawings for radio-controlled car models - a receiver diagram.

A homemade radio-controlled car is a reality. Of course, making it from scratch will not work - develop your experience on simpler models.

I got this from my nephew radio-controlled car a toy. The range is only about 15 meters, the weak electronic part, i.e. the front wheels barely turn and the drive pulls very weakly.

With nothing to do, I decided not to pump this radio-controlled car a lot. Digging through the bins, I found a 40MHz receiver and two servos, one HS-311 in working order and one powerful digital MG946R with a burnt out engine. I adapted the HS-311 to the steering wheel in exchange for the native, frail design, and the MG946R took only the electronic control board. For the place of the servo motor, I connected the traction motor of the radio-controlled machine, and soldered a 4.7 kOhm tuning resistor in the place of the servo variable.

Setting up a radio-controlled car

The converted radio-controlled toy, when the transmitter is first turned on, starts spinning the wheels, in order to stop them, you need to:

• Connect gas servo to channel 2 (PB channel)
• Configure if you need a channel reverse
• Trimmer to stop the rotation of the wheels

Next, we rebuild the expansions (set 100% for gas), expenses and trim the steering wheel. For power, I used 5 cans of NICD batteries, reworked radio-controlled car came out powerful and nimble. It was not without problems, the native traction engine turned out to be rather weak, it gets very hot and stinks, I think he will not have to live long. But in general, the alteration was a success, now the machine drives from under the remote control

This article is a modeler's story about making a homemade RC Range Rover 4x4 from a plastic model. It reveals the nuances of manufacturing axle drives, installing electronics and many other nuances.

So, I decided to make a car model with my own hands!

I bought an ordinary bench model Range Rover in the store. The price of this model is 1500 rubles, in general it is a little expensive, but the model is worth it! Initially I thought about making a hammer, but this model is much more suitable in design.

I had electronics, well, I took some parts from a trophy called "cat" which I had not needed for a long time and was disassembled for parts!

Of course, it was possible to take other prefabricated models as a basis, but I wanted just such an off-road jeep.

It all started with bridges and differentials that I made from copper pipes and soldered with a regular 100w soldering iron. The differentials here are ordinary, the gear is plastic, the rods and drive bones are iron from the trophy.

These tubes can be purchased at any hardware store.


I took the differential gear from a regular printer. I didn’t need him for a long time and now I decided that it was time for him to rest.

Everything turned out pretty reliably, but it’s rather inconvenient to work with a soldering iron!

After I made the differentials, I had to close them with something, I closed them with pill caps.

And painted it with regular car paint. It turned out beautifully, although beauty is hardly needed for a trophy.

Then it was necessary to make steering rods and put bridges on the frame. The frame was included and to my surprise it turned out to be iron, not plastic.

It was not easy to do this, since the scale of the parts is very small and it was not possible to solder here, I had to bolt it. Steering rods I took from the same old trophy that I dismantled.

All parts of the differentials are on bearings. Since I made the model for a long time.

I also ordered a gearbox with a reduction gear, the gear will be switched on by a microservo machine from the remote control.

Well, in general, then I installed a plastic bottom, cut a hole in it, installed a gearbox, cardan shafts, a home-made gearbox, an ordinary collector engine for such a small model, it makes no sense to put a bk and the speed is not important to me.

The engine is from a helicopter, but in the gearbox it is quite powerful.

The most important thing is that the model does not move in jerks, but smoothly without delay, the gearbox was not easy to make, but I had a heap of details, the main thing is ingenuity.

The reducer was screwed to the bottom, it kept perfectly, but to attach the bottom to the frame I had to tinker.

Then I installed electronics, shock absorbers, battery. At first I installed the electronics rather weak and the regulator and the receiver were a single unit, but then I installed everything separately and the electronics were more powerful.

And finally, painting, installation of all the main components, decals, headlights, and more. I painted everything with regular plastic paint in 4 coats then painted the fenders brown and sanded the parts to give a shabby and worn look.

The body of the model and the color are completely original, I found the color on the Internet and the photo of the real car did everything according to the original. This color combination exists on a real car and was painted in this color at the factory.

Well, here are the final photos. I will add a video with the test a little later, and the model turned out to be very passable, the speed was 18 km / h, but I did it not for speed. In general, I am satisfied with my work, and it is up to you to evaluate it.

The machine is not large, the scale is 1x24 in size and there is the whole point of the idea, I wanted a mini trophy for myself.

The model is not afraid of moisture! Germetil himself simply varnished the electronics, very reliably, no moisture is terrible.

Servo machine micro park from the aircraft for 3.5 kg.

The battery lasts for 25 minutes of riding, but I will install more powerful electronics and a battery, because this one is not quite enough.

Even the bumpers are the same as on the original. And fastenings on them too. The drive on it is not 50-50%, but 60-40%.

In general, the Range Rover turned out in a rustic style, I didn’t even think that it would turn out to be so high-quality to paint because I really don’t know how to paint, although there’s nothing difficult!

I forgot to add for the sake of beauty, I also installed a roll cage and a full spare tire. Spare wheel and frame were included with the kit.

More about radio-controlled models:

Misha comments:

Tell me how the four-wheel drive is arranged, what is inside the bridge besides the transfer case? There must be a steering knuckle after all.

Greetings!

There are quite a lot of various radio-controlled (RC) equipment in the world, from very simple children's cars on the control panel to huge models of aircraft reaching the size of a car. In this article, I want to talk about a part of the RC world called car modeling, what classes of models are, what categories are divided into, where to start and so on.

Details under the cut. Beware, a lot of traffic.

Model types

Monsters (Monster Truck)

The most popular class of technology for entertainment.
It is a model with high ground clearance, huge wheels, high center of gravity, and therefore very unstable.
Able to overcome any type of surface, ideal for ski jumping, slides and just for fun in the country.

buggy

Usually all-wheel drive. Able to overcome any type of surface, while riding on densely packed soil will be the most optimal.
It is this class that is most widely represented in competitions.

Short Course

It is a pickup truck with a short base and rear wheel drive.
It has a great similarity (copy) with real cars. Designed for the same surface as the buggy, that is, rolled soil.

Truggy

Something between a buggy and a monster.
It is characterized by the presence of large widely spaced wheels and low ground clearance. Accordingly, in this class, you can perfectly overcome various obstacles, jumps, uneven ground, while handling is worse than that of a buggy, but better than that of a monster.
An excellent compromise.

Crawlers

It is characterized by huge ground clearance, the same huge suspension travel, low speed.
Designed exclusively for accurate and leisurely overcoming obstacles.

Drift

Exceptional road car.
Designed, as the name implies, for drifting on asphalt.

Rally (rally)

Along with crawlers, a rather rare class of car.
As a rule, all-wheel drive cars. Differ in copy. Designed for rolled soil.

Trophy

Differs in high copy number, full wire - often with continuous bridges, low speed, soft tenacious tires.
Designed to slowly overcome a variety of obstacles in the form of puddles, mud, swamps.
For popular models, a huge amount of tuning is sold in the form of canisters, wheels, bodies, etc. to create an exact copy of real trophy cars.

Scale Models

Models vary in scale from micro (1:18) to huge 1:5 or 1:4 up to 1 meter long.
Scale models from 1:18 to 1:12 are actually toys and do not participate in competitions, while they are not suitable as a gift for small children and are not intended for riding at home, as they are capable of speeds of 30-35 km / h.
The most interesting and popular scales are 1:10 and 1:8. It is in these classes that the main part of the competition and the greatest variety of models are held.
Models of scale 1:10 and 1:8 can reach 50 cm in length and are not intended for rides in yards and crowded places, since they can reach very high speeds (up to 117 km / h HPI Vorza), and coupled with a mass ( about 4-6 kg) can cause serious injury.
The largest 1:5 scale models have, in the vast majority, an internal combustion engine with a volume of 24-28 cm3 and actually repeat the design of real cars.

Engines

At the moment, car models have four types of engines:

• Electric commutator motor. Electric motors of a completely standard design with a coil, brushes. It is characterized by low power, often poor reliability and is generally not interesting. Applicable on low cost small and micro scale models. For 1:18 scale models, it can reach speeds of 25 km/h.
• Electric brushless (valve) motor (BC). It appeared in RC relatively recently, noticeably pushing aside traditional models with internal combustion engines, since it produces similar power and, unlike internal combustion engines, is much easier to operate.
• Glow carburetor engine. Used in models from 1:12 to 1:8 scale. Refueled with fuel containing from 16% to 30% nitromethane. A very moody engine that needs fine tuning of the carburetor. Highly not recommended for beginners or those who do not like to tinker with technology. The engine is small in volume (several cubic centimeters), but at the same time it allows you to remove several horsepower and reach 30,000 - 40,000 rpm.
• Gasoline internal combustion engines. Used in 1:5 scale models. Refuel with AI 92-95 gasoline. Engines are much less capricious than small displacement glow motors.

Prices

Prices for car models, unlike aircraft models, have their own clear framework. So prices for Chinese 1:18 models with brushed motors start at 3000 rubles (~80 usd). With a more powerful brushless motor, the price reaches 4500 rubles (~130usd). The price range for hobby models (not sports) of a more interesting scale (1:10, 1:8) varies from 10,000 rubles to 25,000 (300 - 700 usd). The most expensive are 1:5 scale models, prices can reach 40 - 70 thousand rubles (1200 - 2000 usd).

Complete sets (delivery options)

There are two types of delivery models:

• RTR - ready to run. This equipment means that the model is assembled and completely ready for races. But at the same time, it should be borne in mind that batteries, a charger, and so on may not be included in the kit. Usually they are included in the kit only for very budget devices. Also, if you buy a model with an internal combustion engine, you will definitely need to buy glow plugs, batteries, fuel, a thermometer, and so on.
• kit. Such a complete set means that for the final assembly of the model, in addition to batteries, chargers, etc., you will need an engine, equipment (remote control with receiver), wheels, an engine speed controller, and so on. Kits are designed for athletes and are not intended for beginners. Such kits are usually supplied in the maximum tuning and it is understood that the athlete already has all the additional body kit.

Hardware (appa)

One of the most important parts in the RC hobby is the equipment: remote control, receiver, telemetry. There are a large number of options on the market from very simple and budget options for 2-channel equipment for 15-20 bucks:

Up to a heaped 4-channel, with telemetry, a bunch of settings and other chips and a price of 600 usd:

The design of the car model on the example of my internal combustion engine truggy

General picture from the official site:

All wheel drive model. three differentials. Engine 4.6 cm3, 2.9 hp Two universal joints diverging from the center differential to the front and rear. The center differential has two disc brakes. The glow-type engine, which means that to start the engine, the spark plug must be heated with a special glow, and then the spark plug coil keeps the temperature itself.
Bottom deck:

The bottom deck is a 4.5 mm thick aluminum plate with holes for starting the motor using the starting table.
Front suspension design:

The design of the front suspension, in fact, is not much inferior to real cars in complexity and greatly surpasses them in terms of reliability, so falls from a height of 2 meters onto the ground with a dozen coups, as a rule, for a car model pass without any breakdowns.

Which model to buy?

The question is complex and, as in the case of computers, you must first decide on the budget and tasks. So for example, if you just want to drive models, jump from trampolines and just have fun, then your choice is a monster - for example HPI Savage. If you are interested in large machines of the 5th scale, then you can look towards the HPI Baja 5T. On a number of forums there are special topics for beginners dedicated to the choice of technology - links at the bottom of the article.

Brands (manufacturers)

At the moment, there are a large number of manufacturers on the market. They can be divided into three categories:

• Purebred Chinese: Iron Track, Himoto, BSD Racing, VRX Racing, HSP. Favorably differ in price, while the reliability and reasonableness of the design may suffer. You can buy as the first model in order to understand whether you like it or not, to gain experience in repair and operation.
• RTR models from US, UK and Japan manufacturers: HPI, KYOSHO, Team Associated, HOTBODIES, Traxxas, Maverick, Team Losi. On average, "according to the hospital" they have greater reliability and reasonable design than the Chinese at a slightly higher price. In the case of manufacturers from the middle group, it is necessary to consider each model separately, since each brand has both high-quality successful models and not high-quality ones.
• Kits from Xrax, KYOSHO, Durango, Team Associated. Uncompromising models for athletes in full tuning. One whale alone can cost more than the same model in the RTR version, and do not forget that you need to buy an app, engine, wheels, speed controller, and so on. With an average cost of an RTR model of 20 thousand rubles (600 usd), a prepared version for competitions based on a whale can cost up to 60 - 70 thousand (2000 - 2300 usd).

Competitions

For fans of the RC hobby, competitions are held both at the regional level and all-Russian. Competitions usually have strict regulations and are generally divided into the following classes:

• Buggy 1:10 4wd electro
• Buggy 1:8 4wd electro
• Buggy 1:10 4wd nitro
• Buggy 1:8 4wd nitro
• Hobby unlim 1:8

It is necessary to make a reservation that the described classes are some convention and may vary from city to city, depending on the popularity of certain models.
If you decide that you want to participate in competitions, think carefully about whether you need it, because like any sport, RC racing requires a lot of time, money, knowledge and patience. As I mentioned above, preparing a new model from scratch for a whale-based competition can cost 60 - 70 thousand rubles. Used can be found for 25-35 thousand.

Nitro or electro

Before the advent of BC systems, internal combustion engines ruled the world of car modeling, since brushed motors have much less power. With the advent of brushless (valve) electric motors, the scales swung in the opposite direction, since electric motors with a power comparable to an internal combustion engine have a number of advantages, such as silence, reliability, no need to set up, run in, no need to start, maintenance is an order of magnitude easier and so on. At the same time, there is a disadvantage in the form of the need to charge the batteries and swelling the batteries at sub-zero temperatures.
From myself, I can say that when I was choosing a serious model, the choice was on the ICE version, which I later repeatedly regretted, since maintenance, tuning, etc. take a lot of time, but you can ride while there is fuel, and the frantic roar of the engine, coupled with a cloud of smoke does not leave indifferent any passer-by.

How to start?

In order to understand whether you like it or not, you will decide on the model and in general, I advise you to come and look at the competitions, rides. The people are usually responsive and sociable, they will help and prompt, because they themselves once started this way. It is also worth asking a question on the RC hobby forums.
In St. Petersburg, you can come and chat on the race track called "Under the Bridge":

Instruction

Self-assembly of the machine has several advantages. You will not only save money, but you will be able to make exactly the one you want. First of all, decide on the amount of money you are willing to spend. The range of spare parts and types is very large, the price range is also very large. When the amount is determined, then proceed to develop a small building plan. Decide which machine you want. You can do it simply on a wired control, or you can use a radio control, which will cost a little more.

Choose a chassis for your future machine. Now you can find a huge number of different chassis, and they are all interchangeable. When buying, pay attention to the quality of the parts. There should be no inclusions and notches on plastic parts. The front wheels should turn easily. Wheels are usually sold with the chassis. They also deserve a lot of attention. It is best to buy wheels with rubber, as plastic ones have very poor grip on the surface.

The next step is choosing a motor. This is the most important step as you choose the heart of your future car. The dynamics and technical characteristics of the future model will largely depend on it. There are two types of motors for models - electric and gasoline. Electric motors are unpretentious in maintenance and have a relatively low price. They are very economical, as they are powered by batteries that are easy to recharge. Gasoline engines have more power, but are more expensive and require careful maintenance. Yes, and special fuel has a significant price. If you are new to modeling, then feel free to choose an electric motor. You will save money and time.

Now you need to decide what type of control will be - wired or wireless. Wired control is cheaper, but the car will only ride within a radius equal to the length of the wire. The radio unit costs a little more, but allows you to drive a car at an antenna coverage distance. It is best to overpay a little and buy a radio unit. Also think about the body of your car. On the shelves of the store you can find cases of almost all modern car models. You can also make the case according to your own unique sketch.

Now you need to assemble all the components. Take the chassis and attach the motor and radio unit. Install the antenna. Along with the components, you should be sold assembly instructions, in which you can find in detail the connection diagram of the parts. Install batteries and antenna. Adjust the motor. When everything is in sync, attach the car body to the chassis. Now it remains only to decorate the machine to your taste.