Today Auto-Gurman.ru decided to tell you about such an important parameter as battery electrolyte level and get to know him better. Below we will talk about what the level of this substance should be, how to check it and top it up. We also give possible reasons for splashing electrolyte out of the battery. But first, let's get acquainted with the terminology.
Electrolyte: basic concept
Electrolytes are liquid or solid substances in which ions are present in a certain amount. Ions are able to move independently and conduct electricity. In a simpler and more understandable language, electrolytes are salts that are capable of conducting electric current due to the fact that they contain ions, which, in turn, are formed in the process of electrolytic dissociation.Electrolyte level
The electrolyte level is not constant and during operation it gradually drops, regardless of whether it is expensive or cheap. The rate of level reduction depends on the relay-regulator. If it does not work properly, then the water boils away quickly, and if everything is normal, then this happens much more slowly. For example, if the relay is faulty, then with an increase in the voltage at the battery terminals above 14.5 V, the electrolyte is able to boil away in just a couple of days, which leads to rapid battery wear and its complete replacement. It is possible to determine the increased voltage at the terminals both by heating the battery itself, and by splashes from boiling electrolyte. Also, at high voltage, air will come out of the filler holes, and plentifully.You can determine the electrolyte level in the battery by unscrewing the filler plugs and looking inside. At the point of contact of the electrolyte with the skirt, which goes down from the holes themselves and is located in each jar, a meniscus should be visible.
During battery charging, the electrolyte level increases. This reaction is the result of thermal expansion. Also, the cause is small bubbles of air and hydrogen that accumulate near the plates. It is for this reason that, after charging, the battery is allowed to cool completely to check the electrolyte level in order to obtain accurate readings.
An elevated electrolyte level will cause it to leak out of the holes in the plugs.
Checking the electrolyte level
Checking the electrolyte level requires some preparation. Firstly, as mentioned above, if the battery has just been disconnected from the charger, then it needs to stand for a while. Secondly, the work must be carried out in whole rubber gloves. Thirdly, there should be clean water nearby so that if electrolyte gets on your hands, you can quickly wash it off.Now the verification process itself.
Batteries in transparent cases are checked by visual inspection. On the side of such a battery there should be two marks (min and max), showing the permissible minimum and maximum electrolyte levels. The level norm is when the electrolyte is in the middle between two marks.
Most batteries do not have a completely transparent case, but there are still marks on it. In this case, to check, it is necessary to unscrew all the plugs and see that the electrolyte is at a distance of at least 1 cm above the surface of the plates, but does not exceed the maximum mark.
That is, in both cases, the electrolyte level in the battery is carried out visually, without the use of special tools. However, in order to obtain accurate data, it is necessary to arm yourself with a glass tube of at least 10 cm in length.
This tube is inserted all the way to the upper edge of the plates into the battery filler hole. As soon as it is inserted, its hole at the end must be closed with a finger. After that, the tube is taken out and the length of the electrolyte remaining in it is measured with a ruler. If the level is slightly more than 10 cm, then everything is in order. At indicators below 10 cm, the electrolyte should be topped up.
Adding electrolyte
For work, you can use ready-made electrolyte or cook it yourself.To prepare the electrolyte, you will need distilled water (1 liter) and sulfuric acid (0.36 liters). Distilled water can be replaced with settled water from melted snow or rain (settling should not be carried out in metal containers). Tap water is completely prohibited.
Pour all ingredients into a plastic container and mix thoroughly. Then close the container with a tight lid and leave the substance for a day. After 20-24 hours, the electrolyte is ready for use.
To fill the electrolyte into the battery, you need to unscrew the plug on the filler hole and put it on the vent fitting. Wear it tighter. After that, simply pour distilled water up to the very thread of the hole and screw the plug back. Charge the battery.
Upon completion of charging, it is necessary to measure the density of the electrolyte in the battery. For these purposes, you will need a special device - a hydrometer. But we would recommend calling in a specialized service, where you would be told the exact figures. After all, each battery has its own allowable density rate. And the prepared electrolyte is added only in case of low rates.
Causes of splashing electrolyte
We will conclude this article with a description of the possible causes of electrolyte splashing out of the battery.And so, the reasons may be as follows:
- Exceeding the permissible level of electrolyte;
- Damage to the battery case;
- Malfunction of the voltage regulator;
- Sulfation of battery plates (complete failure of the battery).
Auto-Gurman.ru sincerely hopes that from this article you have learned everything you wanted to know about the electrolyte level in the battery. Do not forget to check the battery in a timely manner and in which case always keep it ready.
The density of the electrolyte in the battery is a very important parameter for everyone, and every car owner should know: what density should be, how to check it, and most importantly, how to properly raise the density of the battery (acid specific gravity) in each of the cans with lead plates filled with H2SO4 solution.
In the article on the density of the battery electrolyte, you will learn:
Checking the density is one of the points in the process, which also includes checking the electrolyte level and measuring the battery voltage. in lead batteries density is measured in g/cm3. She is proportional to the concentration of the solution, a inversely dependent on temperature liquids (the higher the temperature, the lower the density).
By the density of the electrolyte, you can determine the condition of the battery. So that if the battery does not hold a charge, then you should check the condition of its fluid in every bank.
The density of the electrolyte affects the capacity of the battery and its service life.
It is checked with a densimeter (hydrometer) at a temperature of +25°C. If the temperature differs from the required one, the readings are corrected as shown in the table.
So, we figured out a little what it is and what needs to be done regularly. And what numbers to focus on, how much is good and how much is bad, what should be the density of the battery electrolyte?
What density should be in the battery
Maintaining an optimal electrolyte density is very important for a battery and it is worth knowing that the required values \u200b\u200bare dependent on the climatic zone. Therefore, the density of the battery must be set based on a combination of requirements and operating conditions. For example, in a temperate climate, the density of the electrolyte should be at the level 1.25-1.27 g/cm3±0.01 g/cm3. In the cold zone, with winters down to -30 degrees, 0.01 g / cm3 more, and in the hot subtropical - by 0.01 g/cm3 less. In those regions where the winter is especially severe(up to -50 ° C), so that the battery does not freeze, you have to increase density from 1.27 to 1.29 g/cm3.
Many car owners are wondering: “What should be the density of the electrolyte in the battery in winter, and what should be in summer, or is there no difference, and should the indicators be kept at the same level all year round?” Therefore, we will deal with the issue in more detail, and it will help to do this, battery electrolyte density table divided into climatic zones.
Point to be aware of - the lower the density of the electrolyte in a fully charged battery, the will last longer.
You also need to remember that, as a rule, the battery, being by car, charged no more than 80-90% its nominal capacity, so the density of the electrolyte will be slightly lower than when fully charged. So, the required value is chosen a little higher, from the one indicated in the density table, so that when the air temperature drops to the maximum level, the battery is guaranteed to remain operational and not freeze in the winter. But, regarding the summer season, increased density may threaten boiling.
The high density of the electrolyte leads to a decrease in battery life. The low density of the electrolyte in the battery leads to a decrease in voltage, making it difficult to start the engine.
The density table is compiled relative to the average monthly temperature in the month of January, so that climatic zones with cold air down to -30 ° C and moderate ones with temperatures not lower than -15 do not require a decrease or increase in acid concentration. All year round ( winter and summer) the density of the electrolyte in the battery should not be changed, but only check and make sure that it does not deviate from the nominal value, but in very cold areas, where the thermometer is often below -30 degrees (in the flesh up to -50), an adjustment is allowed.
The density of the electrolyte in the battery in winter
The density of the electrolyte in the battery in winter should be 1.27 (for regions with winter temperatures below -35, not less than 1.28 g/cm3). If the value is lower, then this leads to a decrease in the electromotive force and difficult starting of the engine in cold weather, up to freezing of the electrolyte.
Decreasing the density to 1.09 g/cm3 leads to freezing of the battery already at a temperature of -7°C.
When the density in the battery is lowered in winter, you should not immediately run for a correction solution in order to raise it, it is much better to take care of something else - a high-quality battery charge using a charger.
Half-hour trips from home to work and back do not allow the electrolyte to warm up, and therefore, it will be well charged, because the battery takes charge only after warming up. So the rarefaction increases from day to day, and as a result, the density also decreases.
It is highly undesirable to carry out independent manipulations with the electrolyte, only adjustment of the level with distilled water is allowed (for cars - 1.5 cm above the plates, and for trucks up to 3 cm).
For a new and serviceable battery, the normal interval for changing the density of the electrolyte (full discharge - full charge) is 0.15-0.16 g / cm3.
Remember that the operation of a discharged battery at sub-zero temperatures leads to freezing of the electrolyte and the destruction of lead plates!
According to the table of the dependence of the freezing point of the electrolyte on its density, you can find out the minus threshold of the thermometer column at which ice forms in your battery.
As you can see, when charged to 100%, the battery will freeze at -70 °C. At 40% charge, it freezes already at -25 ° C. 10% will not only make it impossible to start the engine on a frosty day, but will completely freeze in 10 degree frost.
When the density of the electrolyte is not known, the degree of discharge of the battery is checked with a load plug. The voltage difference in the cells of one battery should not exceed 0.2V.
If the battery is discharged by more than 50% in winter and more than 25% in summer, it must be recharged.
The density of the electrolyte in the battery in summer
In summer, the battery suffers from dehydration., therefore, given that increased density has a bad effect on lead plates, it is better if it is 0.02 g/cm3 below the required value(especially in the southern regions).
In summer, the temperature under the hood, where the battery is often located, is significantly increased. Such conditions contribute to the evaporation of water from the acid and the activity of electrochemical processes in the battery, providing high current output even at the minimum allowable electrolyte density (1.22 g/cm3 for a warm humid climate zone). So that, when the electrolyte level gradually drops, then its density increases, which accelerates the processes of corrosion destruction of electrodes. That is why it is so important to control the liquid level in the battery and, when it drops, add distilled water, and if this is not done, then overcharging and sulfation threaten.
Stably overestimated electrolyte density leads to a decrease in battery life.
If the driver or other reasons, you should try to return it to its working condition using a charger. But before charging the battery, they look at the level and, if necessary, top up with distilled water, which could evaporate during operation.
After some time, the density of the electrolyte in the battery, due to its constant dilution with distillate, decreases and falls below the required value. Then the operation of the battery becomes impossible, so that it becomes necessary to increase the density of the electrolyte in the battery. But in order to find out how much to increase, you need to know how to check this very density.
How to check battery density
To ensure the correct operation of the battery, electrolyte density should check every 15-20 thousand km run. The measurement of density in the battery is carried out using a device such as a densimeter. The device of this device consists of a glass tube, inside which is a hydrometer, and at the ends - a rubber tip on one side and a pear on the other. To check, you will need to: open the cork of the battery can, immerse it in the solution, and draw in a small amount of electrolyte with a pear. A floating hydrometer with a scale will show all the necessary information. We will consider in more detail how to correctly check the density of the battery a little lower, since there is also such a type of battery as maintenance-free, and the procedure is somewhat different in them - you will not need absolutely any devices.
The rarefaction of the battery is determined by the density of the electrolyte - the lower the density, the more discharged the battery.
Density indicator on a maintenance-free battery
The density of a maintenance-free battery is displayed by a color indicator in a special window. Green indicator testifies that Everything is okay(degree of charge within 65 - 100%) if the density has dropped and recharging required, then the indicator will black. When the window displays white or red bulb, then you need urgent topping up with distilled water. But, by the way, the exact information about the meaning of a particular color in the window is on the battery sticker.
Checking the density of the electrolyte, in order to determine the need for its adjustment, is carried out only with a fully charged battery.
So, in order to be able to correctly check the density of the electrolyte in the battery, first of all we check the level and, if necessary, correct it. Then we charge the battery and only then proceed to the test, but not immediately, but after a couple of hours of rest, since immediately after charging or adding water there will be inaccurate data.
It should be remembered that the density directly depends on the air temperature, so refer to the correction table discussed above. Having taken the liquid from the battery can, hold the device at eye level - the hydrometer must be at rest, float in the liquid, without touching the walls. Measurement is made in each compartment, and all indicators are recorded.
Table for determining the battery charge by electrolyte density.
Temperature | |||
Discharged |
|||
The density of the electrolyte must be the same in all cells.
A strongly reduced density in one of the cells indicates the presence of defects in it (in particular, a short circuit between the plates). But if it is low in all cells, then this indicates a deep discharge, sulfation, or simply obsolescence. A density test, combined with a voltage measurement with and without load, will determine the exact cause of the malfunction.
If it is very high for you, then you shouldn’t be glad that the battery is in order either, perhaps it was boiling, because during electrolysis, when the electrolyte boils, the density of the battery becomes higher.
When you need to check the density of the electrolyte in order to determine the degree of charge of the battery, you can do this without removing the battery from under the hood of the car; you will need the device itself, a multimeter (for measuring voltage) and a table of the ratio of measurement data.
** cell difference should not exceed 0.02–0.03 g/cm3.
*** The voltage value is valid for batteries that have been at rest for at least 8 hours.
If necessary, density adjustments are made. It will be necessary to select a certain volume of electrolyte from the battery and add corrective (1.4 g / cm3) or distilled water, followed by 30 minutes of charging with rated current and holding for several hours to equalize the density in all compartments. Therefore, we will talk further on how to properly raise the density in the battery.
Do not forget that extreme care is required in handling the electrolyte, as it contains sulfuric acid.
How to increase the density in the battery
It is necessary to raise the density when it was necessary to repeatedly adjust the level with distillate or it is not enough for the winter operation of the battery, and even after repeated long-term recharge. A symptom of the need for such a procedure will be a reduction in the charge / discharge interval. In addition to correctly and fully charging the battery, there are a couple of ways to increase the density:
- add a more concentrated electrolyte (the so-called corrective);
- add acid.
How to properly check and increase the density in the battery.
To increase and adjust the density of the electrolyte in the battery, you will need:
1) hydrometer;
2) measuring cup;
3) a container for dilution of a new electrolyte;
4) pear enema;
5) corrective electrolyte or acid;
6) distilled water.
The essence of the procedure is as follows:
- A small amount of electrolyte is taken from the battery bank.
- Instead of the same amount, we add a corrective electrolyte, if it is necessary to increase the density, or distilled water (with a density of 1.00 g / cm3), if, on the contrary, its decrease is required;
- Next, the battery must be put on recharging in order to charge it with a rated current for half an hour - this will allow the liquid to mix;
- Having disconnected the battery from the device, it will be necessary to wait at least another hour / two, so that the density in all banks evens out, the temperature drops and all gas bubbles come out in order to eliminate the error in the control measurement;
- Re-check the density of the electrolyte and, if necessary, repeat the procedure for withdrawing and adding the required liquid (increase or decrease further), reducing the dilution step, and then measure it again.
The difference in electrolyte density between banks should not exceed 0.01 g/cm3. If this result could not be achieved, it is necessary to make an additional equalizing charge (the current is 2-3 times less than the nominal one).
To understand how to raise the density in the battery, or maybe vice versa - you need a decrease in the specifically measured battery compartment, it is desirable to know what is the nominal volume in it in cubic centimeters. For example, the volume of electrolyte in one can of a 55 Ah car battery, 6ST-55 is 633 cm3, and 6ST-45 is 500 cm3. The proportion of electrolyte composition is approximately as follows: sulfuric acid (40%); distilled water (60%). The table below will help you achieve the required electrolyte density in the battery:
electrolyte density formula
Please note that this table provides for the use of a correction electrolyte with a density of only 1.40 g / cm3, and if the liquid is of a different density, then an additional formula must be used.
For those who find such calculations very complicated, you can do everything a little easier by applying the golden section method:
We pump out most of the liquid from the battery can and pour it into a measuring cup to find out the volume, then add half that amount of electrolyte, shake it to mix. If you are still far from the required value, then add another fourth of the previously pumped out volume with electrolyte. So you should add, each time reducing the amount by half, until the goal is reached.
We strongly recommend that you take all precautions. The acidic environment is harmful not only when it comes into contact with the skin, but also in the respiratory tract. The procedure with electrolyte should be carried out exclusively in well-ventilated areas with extreme caution.
How to raise the density in the accumulator if it fell below 1.18
When the density of the electrolyte is less than 1.18 g/cm3, we cannot do with one electrolyte, we will have to add acid (1.8 g/cm3). The process is carried out according to the same scheme as in the case of adding an electrolyte, only we take a small dilution step, since the density is very high and you can skip the desired mark already from the first dilution.
When preparing all solutions, pour the acid into the water, and not vice versa.
If the electrolyte has acquired a brown (brown) color, then it will no longer survive frosts, since this is a signal for a gradual failure of the battery. A dark shade turning into black usually indicates that the active mass involved in the electrochemical reaction fell off the plates and got into the solution. Therefore, the surface area of the plates has decreased - it is impossible to restore the initial density of the electrolyte during the charging process. The battery is easy to change.
The average service life of modern batteries, subject to the rules of operation (to prevent deep discharges and overcharging, including through the fault of the voltage regulator), is 4-5 years. So it makes no sense to perform manipulations, such as: drilling the case, turning it over to drain all the liquid and completely replace it - this is complete “game” - if the plates have fallen, then nothing can be done. Keep an eye on the charge, check the density in time, properly maintain the car battery and you will be provided with the maximum lines of its work.
Taking care of their car, many car owners, including the fair sex, think about the same problem: what electrolyte level should be in a car battery? Since the level of the electrolytic solution is a variable value and directly affects the life of a car battery, the issue is really serious.
High electrolyte levels can oxidize the battery output terminals and damage engine components if it leaks. And the lack leads to drying and destruction of the internal plates, and then to the complete failure of the battery itself. That is why it is so important to control the level and density of the electrolytic solution in the battery.
Methods for checking the electrolyte level in a car battery
Let's start with the fact that the current electrolyte level can be found out on your own, it is determined visually during inspection. To do this, just unscrew the filler plugs and look inside. If the level is normal, then the plates will be immersed under a layer of liquid with a thickness of 12 to 15 mm.
We watch a useful video on how to check the electrolyte level in the battery:
Also on some car batteries there is a special scale that displays the permissible electrolyte level. It consists of two marks: Min and Max, it is within their limits that the current level of the solution should be. Next, you simply look at the electrolyte level in the banks individually and decide what to do next.
In order not by eye, but to accurately measure this level, special hollow glass tubes are used, the inner diameter of which is from 3 to 5 mm. Having unscrewed the battery plug, the tube is lowered all the way into one of the battery sections. Before removing it, pinch the upper opening of the glass tube with your finger so that the liquid that has accumulated in it remains inside.
The height of the liquid column formed inside the measuring tube will correspond to the electrolyte level in the battery. By measuring it, in this way, you can find out the current liquid level to the millimeter. This procedure is carried out for each of the battery cans individually.
How can the fluid level in a battery change?
Since the liquid level during operation of a car battery can steadily decrease, checking its condition should be systematic. Evaporation of water causes an increase in the concentration of sulfuric acid in the battery. How quickly this happens depends on several factors:
- Firstly, on the nature of driving a car and the totality of its operating conditions;
- Secondly, from the state of the electrical system of the car.
If these circumstances are not the most favorable (sudden temperature changes, long trips along the highway, etc.), the level of the electrolytic liquid can reach a critical mass after a month of operation. And if the battery case is damaged, the liquid can leak out within a few minutes after the breakdown.
Knowing what level of electrolyte should be in a car battery, it is possible not only to significantly increase the life of the battery itself with constant monitoring of the liquid level, but also in this way to detect problems in the car's electrical network in time. As an example, a malfunction in the starter may lead to boiling of the electrolyte in the battery and a decrease in its level.
Thus, if there are interruptions in the operation of the car's electronics, do not be too lazy to also check the electrolyte level in the battery in order to avoid unnecessary expenses for the purchase of a new car battery.
What to do if the electrolyte level is low or high, or the density of the battery is abnormal?
If during the inspection an excess of liquid in the battery is found, you should “arm yourself” with a conventional syringe or syringe. Using these devices, you need to remove the excess solution from the jar, thus bringing the level to the desired level.
Remember that checking the electrolyte level should be carried out after several hours of parking the car, since the liquid tends to expand when heated, which will not have the best effect on the accuracy of the obtained data on the level of the solution.
If a low electrolyte level is detected in the battery bank, distilled water should be carefully added through a special neck, the temperature of which should be between 15-25 ° C.
Remember that by adding water, you are thus lowering the density level. In order to measure this indicator, it is necessary to use a device specially designed for this - a hydrometer. It is a float in a container with a scale and a pear for suction of liquid.
Measurements are made by checking the density of the solution in each of the cans of the battery separately. The norm for the density of the battery fluid is in the range from 1.27 to 1.3 g / cm³ and in each bank it should be approximately the same.
With increased density, the electrolyte is diluted with distilled water using a syringe or syringe, otherwise a special automotive acid is used to increase the density of the battery solution. Bringing the electrolyte density to normal, it is necessary to remember about its level, which is regulated after the correction of the density indicator.
The electrolyte level decreases as the water boils away. That is, to restore the previous value, water should be added, moreover, distilled. Water is added to the filler neck to the lower end of its tube. After topping up, the battery must be charged. In a charged battery, the density of the electrolyte is checked, normally it is 1.27-1.29 g / cm 3. To check the density of the electrolyte, a device called a hydrometer is used. If you have added liquid to the battery, do not measure the density immediately, it will take 3-4 hours for the water to mix with the electrolyte. And when carrying out any measurements, it is important to be careful, because sulfuric acid is used as an electrolyte in the battery.
Here the rate is given when battery performance is especially important. When the density is above the specified level, the electrolyte is diluted with water. If the density is low, electrolyte is added.
It is also possible to measure the battery charge. This requires a device called a voltmeter. The battery must be disconnected from the on-board network. And if the car has just been in operation, it is better to postpone the measurements for an hour. Measurements must be made in a warm room. The charge level should be approximately 12.5 volts for a fully charged battery. To check the charge with a load, a special load plug is used.
Battery density measurement:
Pay attention to the color of the electrolyte. Normally, it should be transparent. A reddish or dark color indicates the destruction of the plates. Such a device should be disposed of as soon as possible, it cannot be repaired and restored.
Now, having learned the answers to a number of important questions regarding the operation of the battery, namely, what should be the electrolyte level, charge level and electrolyte density of the battery, the driver can avoid a number of problems. Timely diagnostics, identification and troubleshooting of the battery allow you to extend its service life, and also not be in an unexpected unpleasant situation.
If, after being diagnosed, malfunctions are identified and excluded, the car has difficulty starting, the starter and the vehicle's electrical wiring should be checked for a malfunction.
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Hello again! In previous issues, we have talked more than once about how to care for different types of batteries, including. It is these devices that generate the current necessary to start the engine and operate numerous devices. I propose to discuss how to check the battery in different ways: from folk to engineering.
Since without a car battery it is not possible to start the engine (you can, if you cheat), then it is simply necessary to monitor the condition of the battery. Therefore, we need to have knowledge of how to test its performance. Let's start with a visual inspection of the battery. It is necessary that its outer surface be clean and free of visible damage. The same applies to the condition of its terminals. Often, already at this stage, you can see if there are any problems with its performance. Oxidized and dirty terminals may indicate that the battery is overheating due to the short circuit of the sections inside it.
So, a visual assessment of the battery performance includes the following points:
- integrity and overall safety of the body of the product;
- the cleanliness of the terminals and the absence of streaks of white and green;
- the absence of large arrays of dust, dirt, traces of electrolyte leakage;
- tight fixation of the terminals with fasteners.
Why is it important to pay attention to this?
A dirty battery case or moisture on top of it will cause rapid self-discharge. The same applies to loose terminals. The resistance in such places increases, and the battery is not able to deliver the starting current of the previous value.
Accordingly, the engine starts with great difficulty, and the charge deteriorates during movement.
Using a multimeter to check
The most common and reliable way to check the battery for performance is to use a special tool for this. This is usually done with a multimeter. It sets the voltage at the terminals. It is better to do this after the car has stood overnight in the parking lot or in the garage.
The parameters of the device must be set to measure direct voltage. The wires should be set accordingly: red - to positive polarity, black - to COM.
The battery status is assessed as follows. If the instrument readings are at 12,6–12,9
A volt means the battery is fully charged. Slightly lower values in 12,1–12,3
will already indicate that the battery capacity is only 50% of the prescribed. If they are on the same level 11,5–11,8
Volts means your battery is dead. 
What does the level in banks say
The density of the electrolyte is another criterion that needs to be checked.
To check the density of the contents, you will need a hydrometer. This is a type of device, which is a special float. To take measurements, the jars are opened one by one and the device is immersed in them. Density firstly depends on the air temperature at which measurements are taken, and secondly on the climate in which the car will be operated. 
Please note that the density is indicated for a temperature of +15 gr. Celsius. For every 5 degrees of temperature change, we introduce an amendment of 0.01 g / cu. cm. That is, if the norm is 1.27 at +15, then the same battery at +25 degrees will show 1.29, and at -5 it will be 1.23 g / cu. cm.
Of course, this only applies to serviceable batteries. It is also necessary to conduct a periodic external inspection of the presence of electrolyte in the banks.
The level is checked with a glass tube, which is lowered into the jar to the plates, then the upper end is closed with a finger (as shown in the figure). 
The electrolyte level should be 10 - 15 mm higher. plate level.
If the electrolyte level is insufficient, distilled liquid must be added inside, but first make sure that the case does not have obvious damage through which leakage can occur.
But remember that the battery has, and trying to revive a very old battery is almost useless.
Other charge test methods
There is another way to check the condition of the battery - the so-called load plug. In fact, this is not a cutlery, but a device that combines the functions of a voltmeter and a device for measuring the load voltage. For measurements, polarity must be strictly observed. The duration of the measurement should not exceed 5 seconds.
When connecting the device to the terminals, sparking must occur. This is due to the fact that a load is created, approximately the same as at the time of starting the engine. Such a check should not be carried out too often, so as not to disable the battery prematurely. If the device shows a voltage of more than 10 volts, this indicates the health of the battery. 
In the case when it is not possible to measure the charge with a tester, you can check the serviceability in the "old-fashioned" way. If the external inspection has already been carried out, as described above, and the condition of the terminals has been checked, then we turn the key in the lock, but do not start the engine. Now you need to turn on all the lights in your car. We leave them on for 5 minutes and observe. If the brightness of the light has not changed during this time, then the battery is in good condition.
As you can see, dear motorists, there are many techniques and methods for checking the condition of a car battery at home or in a garage. A discharged battery should serve as a signal - it must, firstly, be charged, and, secondly, understand why this happened. And be sure to check the battery of your car before the upcoming long trip, and you can drive on a serviceable car at least for today. We will say goodbye today. See you on the pages of new publications. Till!
