When the engine is running working system cooling maintains optimal temperature conditions. Malfunctions in the cooling system can lead to engine overheating. If you miss this moment, unpleasant consequences may arise: breakdown of the head gasket, warping of the head and, as a result, complex repairs engine. On dashboard Every car has a coolant temperature gauge. If the engine overheats, the gauge needle approaches the red zone. Unfortunately, we do not always pay attention to this device in time and realize that the engine is overheating only when we notice steam emerging from under the hood or even hear its whistle.

Checking the cooling system

At the first signs of overheating, if the temperature gauge needle has gone into the red zone, but no clouds of steam are escaping from under the hood, fully open the heater tap and air damper air flow control, turn on the heater motor at maximum speed.

Turn on alarm, depress the clutch pedal and, using the inertia of the car, try to carefully move to the edge of the roadway and stop as far to the right as possible at the curb, and if possible, outside the roadway. Let the engine run for a couple of minutes at normal speed. idle move with on full power heater

Warning

Do not stop the engine immediately! The only condition is to maintain the tightness of the cooling system. If the hose bursts or comes off, or another leak occurs other than fluid knocking out from under the expansion tank plug, the engine will have to be stopped immediately!

After stopping the overheated engine, local overheating of the coolant begins at the points of contact with the most heat-stressed engine parts and the formation of vapor locks. This phenomenon is called “heat stroke”.

Stop the engine. Please note that an overheated engine cannot stop immediately after turning off the ignition and continues to operate due to the so-called pseudo-ignition. Such work is harmful to the engine, so you should stop it forcibly, either by smoothly pressing the gas pedal to the floor, or by engaging any gear with the clutch depressed, and then pressing the brake and releasing the clutch.

EXECUTION ORDER 1. Open the hood and inspect the engine compartment. Warning Determine where the steam is coming from. 2. Never open the expansion tank cap right away. The liquid in the cooling system is under pressure; when the plug is opened, the pressure will drop sharply, the liquid will boil and its splashes can scald you. If you want to open the radiator cap on a hot engine, first place a thick thick rag on top and only then carefully turn the cap. When inspecting the engine, pay attention to the presence of coolant in 3. expansion tank , for the integrity of rubber hoses, radiator, thermostat. Look under the front floor mats in the car to see if there are any leaks or traces of coolant leaking from the radiator or heater tap. 4. Found a leak? No: see point 5 A broken hose can be temporarily repaired using duct tape. A leak in a radiator, thermostat or heater is quite difficult to eliminate on site, so in such a situation it is necessary to add water to the cooling system and carefully monitor the temperature gauge while driving, periodically restoring the level in the cooling system. Warnings Long-term use of water instead of antifreeze leads to the formation of scale in the engine cooling system, deterioration of its cooling and, as a result, a reduction in service life. Never top up cold water into an overheated engine. The engine must cool down 5. open hood for at least 30 minutes. 6. While the engine is still warm, turn on the ignition and make sure the cooling fan is spinning. Yes: see point 13 Check if the sensor that turns on the fan motor is working. To check, remove two wires from the terminals of the sensor installed in the radiator and connect them together. Turn on the ignition. 7. Bring the fluid level in the cooling system to normal, insulate the wire tips so that they do not short to ground. 8. The fan motor will run continuously. This is acceptable for some time, but as soon as possible, replace the sensor in the radiator with a working one, and the antifreeze diluted with water with a new one, since the freezing point of such a “cocktail” is much higher. If the fan does not turn on when the wires going to the sensor are shorted, then the reasons may be a blown fuse, faulty relay switching on or burnt-out electric motor. Replace fuse No. 5 ( mounting block type 2114–3722010–60) or No. 4 and 8 (mounting block type 17.3722). Fuse numbers can be checked by the markings on the cover of the mounting block. To check the result of the replacement, connect the two wires connected to the fan switch sensor and turn on the ignition. 9. Has the electric motor started working? 10. No: see point 10 No: see point 5 Bon Voyage! To test the electric motor, take two additional wires and supply power to it directly from the battery. Wires must be securely fastened and insulated. Fuse numbers can be checked by the markings on the cover of the mounting block. Do not allow wires to short circuit with each other! Pay attention to the polarity of the connection: the electric motor must rotate so that the fan forces air through the radiator onto the engine, and the directions of the generated air flow and the oncoming (path) flow coincide. No: see point 12 11. Contact a car service to check electrical wiring or replace the cooling fan relay. 13. 12. Contact a car service 14. to check electrical wiring or replace the cooling fan motor. The engine can overheat if the thermostat fails, which regulates the flow of fluid in the cooling system through or past the radiator (to speed up the warm-up of a cold engine). To check the thermostat, on a warm engine, check by touch the temperature of the upper and lower hoses connecting the engine to the radiator. If the lower radiator hose is cold, the thermostat is faulty and there is no circulation through the radiator. The expansion tank cap valve plays. It maintains an excess pressure in the system of at least 0.1 MPa (1.1 kgf/cm2). In this case, the boiling point of water rises to 120°C, and antifreeze to 130°C. Unfortunately, when the valve jams in the closed position due to overheating, a significant excess overpressure[more than 0.2 MPa (2 kgf/cm2)], which can lead to rupture of the expansion tank or failure of one of the hoses. Therefore, once a year, the expansion tank plug must be washed with running water, and the valve must be checked for non-sticking by pressing with a finger. If in doubt, replace the plug. Obviously, if you remove the expansion tank cap on an overheated engine and this action coincides with a “thermal shock”, boiling of the liquid and the formation of air pockets in the cooling system will be guaranteed. Once a year, wash the radiator cells with a water jet high pressure(at a special car wash), directing the jet first towards the oncoming air flow, and then in its direction to remove dirt, adhering insects and road debris from the surface of the radiator. In this case, the efficiency of the radiator is partially restored.

What can I say - this breakdown, so to speak, has been haunting me since my last car, then there was a six, oh, and it loved to warm up even with the heater on. Now I bought a 2004 Chevrolet Niva - again the same thing - it started to get warm. Fixed it, but not completely, one fan does not work. Change it again. That’s why I decided to make a cheat sheet here for novice drivers, so that they can immediately understand why their Shevik is overheating and how to fix it. And in general, which way to look)) Otherwise, driving and constantly looking at the temperature sensor is not particularly pleasant, right))

1. First and most importantly, the antifreeze/antifreeze has run out, and therefore there is simply nothing for the pump to run through the cooling system. It’s easy to check - look into the expansion tank; if there is no coolant or less than normal, you need to top it up. Or look for where the antifreeze goes. If it's not there, then it must leak out from somewhere.

• There are also several options here. The first is that it ended stupidly in time, because it also evaporates. Therefore, keep an eye on the coolant level.

• The second is that it flows through the pipes. We check for leaks, tighten the clamps, you can change all the pipes to be sure. If there is a leak, you will immediately notice dampness in engine compartment, and it will smell like evaporated antifreeze when you turn on the stove.

• Third, it leaks through the radiator; they also often fail. If the radiator is leaking, don’t skimp, buy a copper one right away - it’s many times cooler than an aluminum one. If you often drive off-road, then don’t hesitate, just install a copper one, because it’s easier than ever to boil in shit. And copper gives off heat much more coolly than aluminum.

• Fourth, the pump is covered and is leaking through it. I just had one, I had to buy a pump and send it to a service center. Pumps generally fly very often, so don’t be surprised.

2. Fans - they can also “crack”, and separately from each other. As you know, Sheviks have dual Carlsons, the right (passenger) one turns on earlier, on different cars in different ways, but around 93-97 degrees, I don’t remember exactly right now. The second one is the driver’s, it turns on later, when there is already serious overheating - about 110 degrees and threshes until it drops to 93. It turns out that it happens that when there is serious overheating, both propellers thresh. And if at, for example, 120 degrees you have 1 valve working, then the second one has died. By the way, it may very well be that the non-working one is simply clogged with dirt and has dried out. Turn it by hand (only when the car is not running, check).

3. Check the thermostat and fuses. We heat the car up to 100 degrees, then turn it off and put our hand on the radiator. If it’s cold, it means the thermostat is moving in a small circle and the coolant is not reaching the radiator. If it’s hot, but the fans don’t turn on, it means the relay that is responsible for starting the Carlsons has failed. We change either one or the other. If the fuses are blown (for the fans they are located in the passenger's feet, if anything, such big red ones for 50 amps), then the valves will also not work and sooner or later on the road you will boil. Or turn on the heater to maximum to get there))

4. Alternator belt (it is also responsible for the pump and power steering) - if it is loose, the pump will pump weakly and the engine may also heat up. If the low battery light on the devices is on and does not charging in progress and the car immediately started to warm up - then this is again my case when. This means the pump has stopped pumping coolant and the engine suddenly boils.

When the engine is running, a properly functioning cooling system maintains optimal temperature conditions. Malfunctions in the cooling system can lead to engine overheating. If you miss this moment, unpleasant consequences may arise: breakdown of the head gasket, warping of the head and, as a result, complex engine repair. There is a coolant temperature gauge on the dashboard of any car. If the engine overheats, the gauge needle approaches the red zone. Unfortunately, we do not always pay attention to this device in time and realize that the engine is overheating only when we notice steam emerging from under the hood or even hear its whistle.

Checking the cooling system

GENERAL INFORMATION

At the first signs of overheating, if the temperature gauge needle has moved into the red zone, but no clouds of steam are escaping from under the hood, fully open the heater valve and the air flow control air damper, and turn on the heater electric motor at maximum speed.

Turn on the hazard lights, depress the clutch pedal and, using the inertia of the car, try to carefully move to the edge of the roadway and stop as far to the right as possible on the side of the road, and if possible, outside the roadway. Let the engine run for a couple of minutes at normal idle speed with the heater on full blast.

Warning

Do not stop the engine immediately! The only condition is to maintain the tightness of the cooling system. If the hose bursts or comes off, or another leak occurs other than fluid knocking out from under the expansion tank plug, the engine will have to be stopped immediately!

After stopping the overheated engine, local overheating of the coolant begins at the points of contact with the most heat-stressed engine parts and the formation of vapor locks. This phenomenon is called “heat stroke”.

Stop the engine. Please note that an overheated engine cannot stop immediately after turning off the ignition and continues to operate due to the so-called pseudo-ignition. Such work is harmful to the engine, so you should stop it forcibly, either by smoothly pressing the gas pedal to the floor, or by engaging any gear with the clutch depressed, and then pressing the brake and releasing the clutch.

EXECUTION ORDER 1. Open the hood and inspect the engine compartment. Warning Determine where the steam is coming from. 2. When inspecting the engine, pay attention to the presence of coolant in the expansion tank, the integrity of the rubber hoses, radiator, and thermostat. 3. expansion tank , for the integrity of rubber hoses, radiator, thermostat. Look under the front floor mats in the car to see if there are any leaks or traces of coolant leaking from the radiator or heater tap. 4. Found a leak? Warnings A broken hose can be temporarily repaired using duct tape. A leak in a radiator, thermostat or heater is quite difficult to eliminate on site, so in such a situation it is necessary to add water to the cooling system and carefully monitor the temperature gauge while driving, periodically restoring the level in the cooling system. Never add cold water to an overheated engine. Allow the engine to cool with the hood open for at least 30 minutes. 5. open hood for at least 30 minutes. 6. While the engine is still warm, turn on the ignition and make sure the cooling fan is spinning. Yes: see point 13 Check if the sensor that turns on the fan motor is working. To check, remove two wires from the terminals of the sensor installed in the radiator and connect them together. Turn on the ignition. 7. Bring the fluid level in the cooling system to normal, insulate the wire tips so that they do not short to ground. 8. If the fan does not turn on when the wires going to the sensor are shorted, then the reasons may be a blown fuse, a faulty turn-on relay, or a burnt-out electric motor. Replace fuse No. 5 (mounting block type 2114–3722010–60) or fuse No. 4 and 8 (mounting block type 17.3722). mounting block type 2114–3722010–60) or No. 4 and 8 (mounting block type 17.3722). Fuse numbers can be checked by the markings on the cover of the mounting block. To check the result of the replacement, connect the two wires connected to the fan switch sensor and turn on the ignition. 9. Has the electric motor started working? 10. No: see point 10 Warnings Bon Voyage! To test the electric motor, take two additional wires and supply power to it directly from the battery. Wires must be securely fastened and insulated. Fuse numbers can be checked by the markings on the cover of the mounting block. Do not allow wires to short circuit with each other! 11 Contact a car service No: see point 12 11. Contact a car service to check electrical wiring or replace the cooling fan relay. 13. 12. Contact a car service 14. to check electrical wiring or replace the cooling fan motor. The valve of the expansion tank plug plays a major role in ensuring optimal temperature conditions. It maintains an excess pressure in the system of at least 0.1 MPa (1.1 kgf/cm2). In this case, the boiling point of water rises to 120°C, and antifreeze to 130°C. Unfortunately, when the valve jams in the closed position due to overheating, a significant excess of excess pressure occurs [more than 0.2 MPa (2 kgf/cm2)], which can lead to rupture of the expansion tank or failure of one of the hoses. Therefore, once a year, the expansion tank plug must be washed with running water, and the valve must be checked for non-sticking by pressing with a finger. If in doubt, replace the plug. Obviously, if you remove the expansion tank cap on an overheated engine and this action coincides with a “thermal shock”, boiling of the liquid and the formation of air pockets in the cooling system will be guaranteed. Once a year, wash the radiator cells with a high-pressure water jet (using a special washer), directing the stream first towards the incoming air flow, and then in its direction to remove dirt, adhering insects and road debris from the surface of the radiator. In this case, the efficiency of the radiator is partially restored.

Signs of all the causes of engine overheating and boiling? What to do if the engine boils? How to get home? On a VAZ Niva there are several main reasons for engine overheating. In order not to get into unpleasant situation on the road, it is very important to notice early signs of malfunctions in the cooling system at the initial stage of the problem. In this video, I tried to cover in detail all the main reasons for engine overheating and boiling. In addition, I made separate detailed videos for each part involved in engine cooling:
How to delete air lock VAZ NIVA. Correctly removing the airlock of a VAZ NIVA http://youtu.be/BVSJ8WbIhVA
Checking the VAZ NIVA thermostat without removing it. Choosing a VAZ NIVA thermostat http://youtu.be/1RFbpW3S6Tw
All signs of a broken cylinder head gaskets VAZ NIVA. At all stages of head gasket failure http://youtu.be/UUUvEQXUK1M
Signs of a pump malfunction. Choosing a VAZ pump. VAZ NIVA pump design. http://youtu.be/4aqFBj9vKfQ
All reasons for engine overheating and boiling. Eliminating the causes of VAZ NIVA engine overheating
http://youtu.be/0swgbqh-RkU
Details. Why the NIVA VAZ radiator cooling fans do not turn on http://youtu.be/Q-DS3xWdNXw

Comments

Alex Trofa

On the seven injection model, access to this sensor is very simple.... AND HERE....

Max Khrenov

Thanks for the video, Andrey. Please help with advice)) I finally bought a cornfield. Croc 2006 injector. The oil in the engine is less than the minimum, it's filled with semi-synthetic, but the manufacturer doesn't know which one. So what if I add more oil? I have a liter bottle at home (Magnum semi-synthetic). I’ll literally drive it for a week, and then I’ll completely change it. I’m just stressed out about money) I invested everything into repairs.



Vitaly Budaev

in the block))))

Alexander Bondarenko

Andrey’s question is this: the clutch pedal squeaks, he applied some lithol to the rod and now it’s gone again. And tell me, idiot, why there is a piece of foam under the passenger’s feet? Thank you.

Hello Andrey. I have a question for you: how to clean antifreeze from a radiator. Those. I have been using antifreeze (red) for a long time and now I want to change it to green. Do you have a video about cleaning the radiator?! I have a 2012 Niva 3D injector. Thank you.

Andrey, please help me, I have a Nissan Maxima 2001, A33, VQ30DE engine, the radiator fan does not turn on, all the sensors have been changed, the thermostat too, the diagnostics show the lambda probe and the air mass flow sensor does not work, they said, maybe there are also some sensors that respond to the fan turning on when the engine It gets very hot, I turn on the stove, then the fans work, sorry for the mistakes, low bow to you!!

Beket Salmenov

Hello Andrey, thanks for the useful video, I wanted to ask, I have a Peterka injector, so I fill it with antifreeze and after a couple of days the level of antifreeze drops, so about 20 liters of antifreeze are gone, and now I fill it with water almost every day, I checked it’s not leaking anywhere what is the problem? and water is not safe in the motor?



"remove the hood and hide it in the forest" khkhkhkhkhkhkh:)

Tagaev Tagaev

Hello, where is this sensor on a VAZ 2110? I changed the thermal sensor but the antifreeze still boils and the fan works 95 99 somewhere. and changed the thermostat. no use.

Tagaev Tagaev

Marcel Valinurov

Hello! I changed the antifreeze in the shniva, the engine heats up to a temperature of 95-100 and begins to throw out the antifreeze from the tank, I pull out the pipe on the throttle assembly, the antifreeze leaves the tank???? What a.....???? Thanks in advance.

Hello! Here's a question about the pump. Today I disassembled the entire cooling system. Thermostat for release. But the pump crunches but there is practically no play. very very small. Could this crunching sound be due to a tightened timing belt? The crunching is not constant, it will crunch a little and then subside a little and then subside again. Machine 2107

Alexander Savelyev

You say touch the bottom of the radiator, if it is cold then the thermostat is at fault. The bottom of my radiator is hot, but the top is cold. It constantly heats up in a traffic jam, in 2 minutes it can rise to 100 degrees. It doesn't cool down that quickly, only thanks to the fans. I can't figure out what the problem is.

A new spare part is not always good...often the quality leaves much to be desired...on my 10k I changed 3 plugs on the expansion barrel and the 3rd one turned out to be working (and the cheapest one for 50 rubles)

I have a VAZ 2110 carb, it keeps 95 degrees in a straight line at any speed. But when going uphill, the needle goes to the red zone. The radiator is new, the fan turns on, the switch on sensor is 87-92, the pump is working, the thermostat is set to hollow (without internals), The expansion plug was changed 3 times, but still on climbs of 120 degrees. What could be wrong?

da super cool.

Lev Vorontsov

Hello, I have a problem: when the car overheats, it doesn’t pick up speed, I have to press the gas and vibration, what’s the problem?



)))))))))))))))))

Furman Vedili

Amur Khagazheev

When you open the oil cap, it’s white and cloudy. The oil is always normal. What could this be???on a gazelle?

Cuba Algabas

Hello, my problem is that I start to accelerate the car and jerk. and the speedometer does not rise above 80 on a 2007 car

Evgeniy Burmakin Tell me please. I've changed wheel bearings

, and apparently due to the fact that they are initially pressed tightly, the wheels spin rather hard (when suspended, of course). Question: - How to adjust them then now? As I understand it, you need to drive a little for the bearings to fit into place????? or are there other nuances??

Muhammad Zhetkergen

, and apparently due to the fact that they are initially pressed tightly, the wheels spin rather hard (when suspended, of course). Question: - How to adjust them then now? As I understand it, you need to drive a little for the bearings to fit into place????? or are there other nuances??

Hello Andrey, I recently bought a VAZ 2110 8k injector, drove about 150 km for the first day and then started to see a barrel boiling from the bark. Thanks in advance

Hello, can you help? Overheating problem. The car is boiling, the bottom of the radiator, the cold top is hot. You can feel the antifreeze bubbling in the upper hose. Steam comes from the hose to the expansion tank. The thermostat and radiator cap were replaced. I checked the thermostats in the pan and they open. Without a thermostat the problem goes away. The stove doesn't heat well, but it does heat. Would the car overheat if the gasket was broken without a thermostat? Can the pump give such symptoms? Extraneous noise I can't hear it from the pump. Thank you in advance. Honda Accord 1993 2.0 petrol.

Valery Ivanov

Thank you! Like!

Victor Shuisky

Andrey, your opinion is interesting. Today the top pipe of the stove burst on Urbana. I live in Sochi and work on the mountain. Every day I ride up the mountain on a bumpy 8 km. Tell me why the pipe at the top mounting point in front of the clamp could have ruptured. Niva Urban, the car has driven 11 thousand. I think that the pipe itself was not put on correctly, and when bumpy on a mountain road, the engine dangled relative to the body, thereby tearing the pipe. This is how you need to dress it so that the supply of the pipe is enough for the engine rolls? I hope I wrote it clearly))

Ilnar Ilnarov

Hello Andrei. You won't detailed video about the heater (if the faucet leaks... and what kind of faucet is it?) of the fields and how to lubricate the fan so that it does not squeal in the cold. For some, the stove fan whistles in the first year. My opinion is to push graphites there and don’t worry about it :) Well, about the main malfunctions of the heater, especially if it’s cold far from the city. What should I do? :) Thank you

Andrey, tell me if possible. Today I replaced the steel cap of the coolant reservoir expansion tank with a plastic one. I tightened the cap until it stops (it has a valve). I warmed up the engine before starting the fans, but before starting the fans something steamed in the radiator area. It felt like the pressure had nowhere to go. There was nothing boiling in the expansion tank. What could be the reason, I tightened the cap of the barrel expander too tightly? Is the cap valve faulty? Or is it the radiator cap? Thank you!

NewYorkFlame NewYorkFlame

what to do if the expansion tank is boiling?

Thanks for the video

Sergey Makhanko

Andrey, please tell me how your oil pressure light goes out. What worries me is that in my field, after starting the engine, the lamp goes out after 2 or 3 seconds. The oil is fresher. Maybe this is within the normal range for a Niva with 60 thousand mileage?

Grob Gromov

Andrey, tell me, I don’t know what to do. Passat 1.8 at speeds up to 110, temperature is normal 85 and 90, I start to tumble in, the engine starts to boil. What I did was change the thermostat 2 things. Today I cleaned the radiator by hiding the side covers and cleaned the outside. The fans work well; by the way, they work often. what other options? What I didn’t do, I didn’t touch the pump without a belt, there is play.

Oleg Kirilchuk

Hello, I have a VAZ 2123 Niva Chevrolet according to your instructions: (the fans are working, the thermostat is new and working) but the car is still boiling and the fans do not turn on. We cannot find the reason for the engine boiling.

Oksana Nasardinova

Hello Andrey, I have a Niva 2124, the left fan is not working, what could be causing it? Please tell me, I’m waiting for an answer?

Oksana Nasardinova

Andrei wanted to start the car this morning and it wouldn’t start. The starter turns perfectly as if there is no gas, and when you see the light (!) the icon is on

Zhenya Degtyarev

Thermal resistor is called.

Zhenya Degtyarev

Because of a plug, all the pipes on my Moskvich 412 started leaking