All Toyota car models from 1983 to 1988 were equipped with 2-pin and single-pin diagnostic connectors combined into a single harness.
These connectors are located next to the wiper motor or next to the distributor. Fault codes were transmitted, when the ignition was turned on and the 2-pin connector was closed, in the form of a sequence of flashes from 1 to 11, a warning light on the instrument panel.
2. Models of Toyota cars produced in 1988-1996
In these cars, multi-pin connectors are beginning to be installed. You can see their varieties in the table below.
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Multi-pin diagnostic Toyota car connectors |
In our article, we will focus on the third type of connector, perhaps the most common connector in Toyota cars from the late 90s - early 2000s. Although the information below on reading self-diagnosis codes and decoding them is also suitable for other types of connectors.
2.1 Diagnostic connector Toyota 22-pin
2.2 Connector pinout
- pin-[ FP] Fuel pump voltage monitoring. Or a terminal for supplying voltage to the fuel pump, when checking the pressure in the fuel system
- pin-[ W] Used to read engine self-diagnosis codes (lamp circuit check engine)
- pin-[ E1] Weight. Used to read self-diagnosis codes
- pin-[ OX1] Monitoring the output voltage of the first lambda probe
- pin-[ AB] Erasing system trouble codes SRS
- pin-[ OP1 for reading immobilizer self-diagnosis codes)
- pin-[ CC0] Used to diagnose the first lambda probe. On some vehicles, this pin is used to monitor the output voltage of the exhaust gas temperature sensor.
- pin-[ TE1] Output for reading system fault codes EFI. Diagnostics: "Normal Mode". Used to read engine self-diagnosis codes (for reading self-diagnosis codes, close to contact E1)
- pin-[ TE2] Diagnostics: "Test mode". Used to read engine self-diagnosis codes (for reading self-diagnosis codes, close to contact E1)
- pin-[ CC2] Used to diagnose the second lambda probe
- pin-[ TC] Used to read the self-diagnosis codes of additional systems - ABS, Cruise Control, Traction Control System, Active Height Control, 4WS, SRS and others (for reading self-diagnosis codes, close to contact E1)
- pin-[ +B] Nutrition. +12V appears when the ignition is switched on (position "ON" ignition switch)
- pin-[ VF1] Contact, the voltage on which is the result of a computer analysis of the state and performance of the first lambda probe, as well as to indicate the mode in which the injection system is located. Sometimes the output voltage is brought to the contact CC0- 7 pin
- pin-[ VF2] Contact, the voltage on which is the result of a computer analysis of the state and speed of the second lambda probe, as well as to indicate the mode in which the injection system is located.
- pin-[ OX2] Monitoring the output voltage of the second lambda probe
- pin-[ TS] Used to read the self-diagnosis codes of the speed sensors ABS and Traction Control System(for reading self-diagnosis codes, close to contact E1)
- pin-[ TT] Used to read automatic transmission self-diagnosis codes (for reading self-diagnosis codes, close to contact E1)
- pin-[ OP4] Optional contact. On different car models, its purpose may vary
- pin-[ IG-] Switch output. Tachometer signal
- pin-[ OP2] Optional contact. On different car models, its purpose may vary (for example, K-line diagnostics)
- pin-[ OP3] Optional contact. On different car models, its purpose may vary (for example, L-line diagnostics)
- pin-[ WA]
- pin-[ W.B.]
2.3 Reading engine self-diagnosis codes "Normal Mode"
- Close the jumper terminals TE1 and E1 of the diagnostic connector.
- Turn the ignition on by setting the ignition switch to the "ON" position and read the trouble codes by flashing the "CHECK ENGINE" indicator.
- The fault code consists of two digits. The first digit is determined by the initial series of flashes, then after a pause of 1.5 seconds, the second series of flashes follows, which corresponds to the second digit of the code.
- If there are two or more fault codes, the smallest code will be displayed first, and then the remaining codes, in ascending order. There will be a 2.5 second pause between codes.
- After all codes have been displayed, there will be a pause of 4.5 seconds, and then all codes will repeat again.
Car TOYOTA 17-pin rectangular connector
Installed on some models before 1990, location: under the hood. Closed with a lid.
20-pin rectangular connector for Toyota diagnostics
FP Fuel pump voltage monitoring or output for supplying voltage to the fuel pump when checking the pressure in the fuel system
W Used to read engine self-diagnosis codes (Check Engine Lamp Circuit)
Ox1 Lambda probe output voltage control
TE Used to read engine self-diagnosis codes
Te1 Used to read engine self-diagnosis codes
Te2 Used to read engine self-diagnosis codes
CC2 Used to diagnose the second lambda probe
Tc Used to read self-diagnostic codes for additional systems - ABS, Traction Control, Hight Control Level Control System, etc.
OP2 K-line diagnostics
B Power supply +12V
Vf1 Vf-feedback voltage - contact, the voltage on which is the result of the analysis of the state and speed of the lambda probe by the computer, as well as to indicate the mode in which the injection system is located. Sometimes the output voltage is output to the CCO
Vf2 Like Vf1, but for the second lambda probe
Ox2 Like Ox1, but for the second lambda probe
Ts Used to read ABS and Traction Control speed sensor self-diagnosis codes
Tt Used to read automatic transmission self-diagnosis codes
OP3 L-line diagnostics
TD Used to disable air suspension (LS400)
T Used to read engine self-diagnosis codes
OP1 Used to read immobilizer self-diagnosis codes
IG-Ground
Diagnostic connectors Toyota - 17-pin
Pin assignment for this jack
TE1 Used to read engine self-diagnosis codes
E1 Used to read engine self-diagnosis codes
W Used to read engine self-diagnosis codes
TOYOTA OBD-II Diagnostic Connector
2 J1850 Bus+
4 Body ground
5 Signal ground
6 CAN-High line, J-2284
7 K-line diagnostics (ISO 9141-2 and ISO/DIS 14230-4)
10 J1850 Tire -
13 TC - timing check
14 CAN-Low line, J-2284
15 L-line diagnostics (ISO 9141-2 and ISO/DIS 14230-4)
16 Power supply +12V from battery
Location in cars
Every car owner should know this:
The content of the article:
home Pinout of connectors Pinout of Toyota diagnostic connectors. Brands and years (approximately): part of the models up to the year. Assignment of the conclusions of the diagnostic connector.
© Toyota website May x. x. Vitz.
About the logo. The Toyota logo is a triple oval. The two internal ovals, arranged perpendicularly, symbolize the strong relationship between the client and the company. In addition, if you look closely and turn on your imagination a little, then in these ovals you can see the image of all six letters of the brand name T, O, Y, O, T, A.
Toyota Carina E 3S-GTE 4WD AIR[for myself] › Logbook › OBD and OBDII diagnostics. Diagnostic connector under the hood of most of our cars. Using the 3SGTE pinout as an example, I will show how I connected it, I'm sure that on others.
ISO Keyword Protocol Toyota alternator diode bridge. The OBD2 connector is used to connect the scanner to the ECU. In general, everything is as usual, since the Check-Engine is on, for a start, you need to connect the scanner and look at what the control unit is complaining about. Erasing codes should occur when the ignition is turned off.
OBD connectors. Pinout of ALL OBD Auto Diagnostic Connectors by brand - video on the site
Good day friends! I think that everyone had a question about diagnostics, someone goes to specialists in the hope that they will immediately be told why such an expense or why the car is dull during acceleration, or, to the extreme, why there is vibration at idle. But often this is a myth. Especially with OBD, firstly, reading the data of the so-called logs is not available to everyone, and not everyone can decipher what is hidden in all these graphs.
So, all Carina E and Toyota in general before g had an OBD diagnostic connector, with its help you can carry out self-diagnosis of the system and connect a PC to read logs with a homemade cord, and a special program for the development of which thanks to the esteemed developer with the nickname chem This is an invaluable contribution to the diagnosis of our Toyota!
Engine self-diagnosis, it would be more correct to say reading errors from the ECU. By closing contacts E1 - Te1. And turning on the ignition, follow the blinking of the Chekichan lamp. Reading ABS errors 3. If you have a cable for diagnostics, then Te2 - Te1 - E1 is used. Bridge the terminals "TC" and "E1" of the DLC1 connector. Remove the jumper from the "WA" and "WB" terminals.
After 4 seconds, read the code by the number of flashes of the ABS indicator. Remove the jumper from terminals "TC" and "E1". Install a jumper on the "WA" and "WB" pins. Resetting ABS Codes Turn on the ignition. Connect terminals "TC" and "E1" Depress the brake pedal eight or more times within three seconds.
The indicator should display the rate code and flash 2 times per second. Make sure the ABS indicator is off. This connector is very often neglected during swap, and if it is not on the motor braid, then it is not installed. But after replacing the engine, I like to start it with half a poke, and this is easier to do when there are no errors before starting and gasoline is pumped through the system.
Those who have a 3S-GTE know that it is very crowded under the hood, and without this box there are enough additional pendants for a fuel pump resistor, a fuel pump relay, an absorber electro-pneumatic valve, and all of them from the side where the wiring enters the passenger compartment. I got out of the situation in this way, it seems to me quite functional and at a minimum collective farm.
OBDII OBD2 many people are interested in this topic, and again very often they are neglected when swapping. In the best case, leaving one wire coming from the ECU, connecting it to ground, the ECU goes into self-diagnosis mode with a Chekichan lamp. And they can be understood, I myself neglected it, because the connector itself was not at hand. I’ll make a reservation right away that diagnostics via OBDII is possible only if the ECU supports it. Using the 3SGTE pinout as an example, I will show how I connected it, I'm sure that the contacts on other ECUs will be the same.
It is his alone that is enough for self-diagnosis. TAC - tachometer SIL - Data bus K-Line CG - Ground. But when installing the protection of the heater motor, the mounting holes were occupied. And I had to think of something. And it is strange that before that the idea did not occur to me to place it in the glove compartment, or rather behind the glove compartment. Directly on the stiffening pipe. Is it necessary to connect the TAC and TC pins in OBD2? It seems that people connect only 3 wires plus minus and sil and everything should show.
These wires are for displaying tachometer readings. And the vehicle for output to self-diagnosis. If so, then most likely the coil brain will not understand the distributor engine immediately, without modifications. And the connector itself can be "attached to the tape". That is, without replacing the torpedo wiring. Mitsubishi Lancer "Stealth F". Audi Q7 Antares Widebody R BMW X6 50i Reference. BMW 5 series project E34Coupe Fastback.
DIY OBD2 GM adapter
All Toyota drivers who at least once carefully examined the engine compartment saw, of course, a closed plastic box with the inscription diagnostic. It is located on the rear wall of the engine compartment - or closer to the wing, but is always easily accessible and noticeable. Pull the petal - the top cap will open.
We continue. The "+B" contact is the simplest. By connecting a multimeter or “tseshka” to it relative to the “mass”, we control the voltage in the on-board network. At idle, with a good battery and disconnected consumers (stove, air conditioner, headlights, dimensions, radio, power windows, etc.), a voltage of 14.7 V is acceptable. However, if you have measured 15 V and higher (with an accurate and serviceable device), here is cause for concern. It is possible that the regulator built into the generator is faulty, but this does not happen often.
Contact Fp allows you to check the voltage at the fuel pump. When you try to start the engine, 12-14 V should be displayed there. Close the + V and Fp contacts with the engine off and the pump will start. Which is sometimes useful when you need to measure the pressure in the fuel line. And as soon as there are doubts about the fuel pump, then do this: one listens in the gas tank area (usually under the rear seat cushion), and the other briefly closes the named contacts. At the moment of contact, the first one will hear a soft buzz, which allows us to hope that the fuel pump is working. If there is no buzzing, and you are sure of the condition of the wiring, the pump winding is likely to break. Measure the resistance at terminal Fp against ground (ignition off); units of ohms are normally expected. Too loud buzzing indicates the maximum wear of the pump rotor and the imminent death of the assembly.
Contacts E1, Te1, Te2 are designed for self-diagnosis - not a complicated procedure at all. As you know, when the ignition is turned on, the check engine light comes on on the dashboard, or the light with the image of the engine (which is the same thing). After starting the engine, the light must go out. If it continues to burn, it's time to diagnose. Why close the wire (a straightened paper clip) contacts E1 and Te1 and turn on the ignition without starting the engine. The light bulb will start flashing. Fast monotonous flashing with a constant frequency indicates that no failures were detected - everything is in order. If she beeps like in Morse code, say, 4 flashes - pause - flash - long pause - 4 flashes - pause - flash ... well, and so on, it's worse. This means that the computer is trying to tell you about the detection of a fault code "41", which indicates trouble with the throttle position sensor. However, some sensors (or rather, their malfunction) are not seen by the computer at close range, apparently due to the simplification of the system. So, I turn it off on my “Corolla-2” 1995 onwards. intake air temperature sensor connector (banal thermal resistance), then turn on the self-diagnosis mode. Logically, code 23 or 24 is expected, and the light bulb beeps quickly and monotonously; say, "all the way." But if you turn off the vacuum sensor in the intake manifold, then the light will flash - as it should with such a malfunction. True, and the engine starts to "fail" terribly. That is, get ready for the fact that self-diagnosis is not a panacea, but rather a way of self-soothing.
Key point: all fault codes are stored in the memory of the electronic unit until the battery is disconnected or the fuse that feeds the EFI unit is removed (usually it is indicated on the cover of the "plugs" box). Thus, when purchasing a car, it is harmless to conduct a self-diagnosis - you look, and some of the previous (perhaps long cured) sores will pop up.
They talk about a cunning buyer on the market in Rabochy: having found a suitable car, in a conversation with the owner, he carefully found out if he knew about the purpose of the diagnostic connector. If the seller didn't boom, the buyer offered to run a self-diagnosis and "finally make sure that everything is in order." In the process, the buyer, looking at the innocently blinking light bulb, made scary eyes, frantically got out of the car and allegedly was about to leave. The seller, of course, wanted to know what was the matter. And then our buyer, with the air of a connoisseur, declared: yes, your gas pump (switch, computer or whatever - according to the situation) is living its last days. Look, here is your code - and palmed off obscure tables. The demoralized seller readily dropped from the price - if only not to pull until the terrible day. And the buyer in the end reluctantly agreed. Not too honest, but elegant.
They also conduct a “driving”, or road test. Here it is necessary to close the contacts E1 and Te2 before turning on the ignition. Then start the engine, reset the daily mileage counter, and ride, ride, simulating increased loads, sharply changing speed, famously braking and turning - in general, “the worse, the better.” Thus, we provoke sensors and nodes to reveal imperceptible defects. When 15–20 km clicks on the counter, you need to stop, wait a couple of minutes, and close the contacts (without removing the first jumper) E1 and Te1 at idle. If trouble codes are not born, then thank God. Otherwise - see the table ... During the road test, you must be extremely careful and look at the road, and not at the light bulb. Jumpers after checking should be removed - first E1-Te1, then E1 and Te2.
Contact Ox1 - directly from the lambda probe (oxygen sensor). Since the output impedance of the sensor is large, there is nothing to do here without a special voltmeter. It is better to use the Vf1 output - a signal already processed by the electronic unit is taken there, and it is checked by a simple device. The method for monitoring the performance of an oxygen sensor is simple (see "Mysterious Lambda Probe", "Turbo", 2003, No. 6).
Take a closer look at whether there are metal contacts in the sockets Ox2, Vf2. Not? Well, fine. So you only have one single oxygen sensor. No troubles associated with the 2nd lambda probe threaten you. And if you still have 2 of them, then you probably have a very serious car, and with your means, you won’t bother with some kind of probes - that’s what the service is for.
The CCO (or CO2) contact allegedly also allows you to control the output voltage of oxygen sensors, but I do not know how to work with them. The Tc contact is designed to read self-diagnosis codes for additional vehicle devices. I don’t know if there is a service in the foreseeable vicinity where they know how to do it and know why, but contact Ts is not interesting for us and even more so.
The same with Ts: it serves to check the voltage deviations of the speed sensor. Did you know that this is in your car?
But the W contact is useful when the control light on the instrument panel has burned out (or has not gone out for some other reason). Then you need to plug a pointer voltmeter between + V and W and read the self-diagnosis codes by the vibrations of the arrow (as with a light bulb). But as they say, let there always be a light bulb! That is, a working lamp. And then, God forbid, something terrible will happen, but you don’t even know - the signal doesn’t blink!
And what is AB, Tt and Ort, it was not possible to unearth. Hopefully nothing vital.
The IG contact is useful in case of ignition failures. It gives out a sequence of pulses applied to the switch. It is clear that their frequency is exactly 4 times higher than the crankshaft speed. It is easy to connect an electronic frequency meter, oscilloscope or tachometer.
No one is trying to turn you into great diagnosticians. But you need to be able to perform the simplest diagnostic operations in your car. A dishonest serviceman does not hang noodles on your ears (like that buyer), and on occasion you casually throw to your neighbor in the garage: “Did you turn on self-diagnosis?”.
In conclusion, I will say that the named connectors are found on most of the average "Toyota" running around Siberia. But there are old models, and completely new ones. Everything is different there – according to international standards.
It is a pity that such technologies are too high for us, and a rare service has a complete diagnostic technique. Little literature, special devices. Which is very strange - in view of the prevalence of Toyota cars in our country. Not otherwise, the Russian mentality. In the meantime, we grow up to Japan, or at least Europe, thousands of on-board computers will die under the powerful soldering irons of garage craftsmen, many coils (microcircuits, fuses ...) will die from checking “for a spark”, kilometers of wires will melt, because “the master took it a little” and “light bulb dull." And why do you need my teachings? Then, while conducting self-diagnosis, you should be extremely careful and remember the great principle: "Do no harm"!
| THE CODE | SYMBOL |
| 11 | No power to EFI unit |
| 12 | No signal from engine speed sensor |
| 13 | No signal from the engine speed sensor at speeds over 1000 rpm |
| 14 | No signal from the "minus" of the ignition coil |
| 16 | No signal to the automatic transmission control unit from the EFI unit itself |
| 21 | |
| 22 | Incorrect signal from the engine temperature sensor (THW) |
| 23 | |
| 24 | Incorrect signal from the intake air temperature sensor (THA) |
| 25 | Too lean mixture due to incorrect operation of the control valves |
| 26 | Too rich mixture due to incorrect operation of the control valves |
| 27 | Incorrect signal from the oxygen sensor |
| 28 | Incorrect signal from the oxygen sensor |
| 31 | Incorrect signal from the "counter" of the amount of intake air; if not, then from the vacuum sensor in the intake manifold |
| 32 | Incorrect signal from the “counter” of the amount of intake air |
| 35 | Incorrect signal from the atmospheric pressure compensation valve sensor |
| 41 | Incorrect signal from the throttle position sensor |
| 42 | Incorrect signal from the vehicle speed sensor |
| 43 | No start signal (STA) above 800 rpm |
| 51 | No “neutral” signal (or the air conditioner is on when checking) or no “IDL” signal |
| 52 | Wrong signal from the shock sensor |
| 53 | EFI block failure |
| 71 | Incorrect signal from the EGR valve sensor |
| 72 | Fuel cut signal |
1) Connector type #1 - 17-pin rectangular connector
Makes and years (approximately): some models before 1990
Typical location:
Appearance:
To diagnose Toyota vehicles with a similar connector, use
Typical location: under the hood. Usually covered with a lid.
Appearance:
FP- Voltage control on the fuel pump or output for supplying voltage to the fuel pump when checking the pressure in the fuel system
W(Check Engine Lamp Circuit)
E1- Used to read engine self-diagnosis codes
Ox- Monitoring the output voltage of the lambda probe
TE- Used to read engine self-diagnosis codes
Te1- Used to read engine self-diagnosis codes
Te2- Used to read engine self-diagnosis codes
CC2- Used to diagnose the second lambda probe
Tc- Used to read the self-diagnosis codes of additional systems - ABS, Traction Control, Hight Control Level Control System, etc.
OP2- K-line diagnostics
+B- Power supply +12V
Vf1- Vf-feedback voltage - contact, the voltage on which is the result of the computer's analysis of the state and
speed of the lambda probe, as well as to indicate the mode in which the injection system is located.
Sometimes the output voltage is brought to the CCO
Vf2- Similar to Vf1, but for the second lambda probe
Ox2- Similar to Ox1, but for the second lambda probe
Ts- Used to read ABS and Traction Control speed sensor self-diagnosis codes
Tt- Used to diagnose automatic transmission
OP3- L-line diagnostics
TD- Used to disable air suspension (LS400)
T- Used to read engine self-diagnosis codes
OP1- Used to read immobilizer self-diagnosis codes
IG- Weight
Video review of car connectors
Examples of the location of the connector on certain models of Toyota vehicles
- Toyota Land Cruiser (2000) Location: under the hood. The connector is covered with a cover labeled DIAGNOSE
- Toyota Carina (1996) Location: under the hood. Closed with a plastic lid
- Toyota Camry (1991-1996) Location: under the hood. Closed with a plastic lid
3) Connector type #3 - 17-pin semi-circular connector
Makes and years (approximately): some models after 1990
Typical location: under the hood. Usually covered with a lid.
Appearance:
Pin assignment of the diagnostic connector:
TE1 - Used to read engine self-diagnosis codes
E1 - Used to read engine self-diagnosis codes
W - Used to read engine self-diagnosis codes
4) Type of connector No. 4 - 16-pin OBD-II connector in the shape of a trapezoid in the cabin
Makes and years (approximately): some models after 1998
Typical location: in the cabin under the dashboard on the driver's side.
Appearance:
Pin assignment of the diagnostic connector:
2 - J1850 Bus+
4 - Body grounding
5 - Signal ground
6 - Line CAN-High, J-2284
7 - K-line diagnostics (ISO 9141-2 and ISO/DIS 14230-4)
10 - J1850 Tire -
13 – TC – Timing Check
14 - Line CAN-Low, J-2284
15 - L-line diagnostics (ISO 9141-2 and ISO/DIS 14230-4)
16 - Power supply + 12V from the battery
