Good day to you! If you are reading this article, it means that you, like me, were tortured by the oil zhor and the rumble of the chain on the 1ZZ-FE.
The compiler takes the liberty of adding words
Eugenio,77 [email protected] :if the oil is decreasing, then either it is leaking, or the engine is "eating" it.
Zhor oil is possible:
a) through the crankcase ventilation system to the air filter or to the manifold - excess pressure in the crankcase - see piston, then see crankcase ventilation, in principle they are closely interconnected
b) through valve stem seals (or worn bushing valve) - is determined in the following way: warm up the engine, smoothly unwind (at least 4 thousand), sharply throw gas and look into exhaust pipe, if after these manipulations the smoke intensified for a while - the caps are over (the increased vacuum sucked the oil through them). the same thing - a "traffic light test": drive on a warm engine, stop for a minute, then move off (more or less intensively) - if a bluish cloud flies out at the start, and then everything is normal - it’s time for the caps to rest.
c) through the rings - if it eats too much, if it starts to smoke with an increase in speed, if the compression has dropped (and when pouring oil into the cylinder through candle hole increases - just do not forget about the possible "oil compression".
d) a crack in the block - no comment.
I’ll make a reservation right away: I didn’t have a goal to overhaul the engine, so I only changed the rings. I did not measure anything, did not look at the gaps, did not change the caps. I was just curious to check the opinion that changing the rings solves the oil problem. It is for this purpose that I climbed into the engine. Most likely, I will definitely miss something in my story, I will make a mistake somewhere or I will call something not the way it is actually called :) Do not judge strictly, the material is large, and I am not a professional, you can’t follow everything ... Well, let's get started?
Jack up the right front, remove the wheel. Then, from below, we turn off everything that prevents getting close to the engine crankcase (protection, plastic mudguards, etc.) The compiler had to order 2 pistons 90189-06013 because he did not understand how they are removed. Ni and clips 90467-07164
We turn away drain plug, drain the oil. We drain the antifreeze from the block (there is a faucet on the back side, in the photo below) and from the radiator (drain plug at the bottom left).
I wound 3 turns of electrical tape around the tube and poured it into a clean container. About 2.5 liters drained.We unscrew 2 screws and 2 plastic plugs securing the decorative cover, remove it.
Disconnect 4 connectors from the spark plug coils.
We unscrew the 2 nuts securing the bar with the wiring.
We unscrew the 4 bolts securing the coils and remove them. We turn out the candles.
Disconnect the ventilation hoses from the valve cover.
Loosen the screws and nuts holding valve cover, we look to see if something else is screwed on, interfering - we turn it off :) We remove it ...
Editor's note: to reduce the chance of any debris getting into the engine, it is advisable to remove the cover just before disassembling the engine.
I advise you to unscrew the PCV valve, wash and evaluate the condition ...
It's time to unscrew the bolt on the crankshaft pulley. Tighten from the heart, prepare a good cap and a long collar ... The direction is counterclockwise. According to the book for unscrewing, a special device is used that stops the pulley (pictured below).
Of course, there was nowhere to take it, therefore, remembering the experience of the same bolt on the G8, I simply stopped the flywheel at the junction of the engine and gearbox. Look from below, there is such a plastic cap, remove it and insert something powerful between the teeth of the flywheel, well, like a large screwdriver. Make sure that it does not pop out during rotation, get out from under the car and go try to unscrew the pulley. From the first time, it is unlikely that it will be possible to fix the screwdriver so that it does not fall out ... It is optimal, of course, that there is an assistant ...
We unscrew the bolt, remove the pulley. The key remains on the shaft, do not lose it. However, she sat firmly with me and was clearly not going to fall out anywhere. We look around, evaluate the condition of the gland, whether oil is flowing from under it. If so, well, you'll have to change. It's easy, the main thing is accuracy. When you put the pulley in place, wipe it from sand and dirt and lubricate the seat in contact with the oil seal in a circle with engine oil.
Now let's deal with the fuel rail, it also needs to be removed. Unplug the injectors...
We pull it up, it snaps off. This will make it possible to rotate the fuel pipes relative to each other and take the ramp out of the working area. You can generally disconnect this connection and remove the ramp completely - I did not succeed: (Even with the help of a smart book ...
We unscrew the fixing bolts, pull the ramp up and remove it. ( Again, in order to prevent dirt from entering the combustion chambers, it is advisable to clean the surface of the head near the injectors from dirt (with compressed air or a brush).) It is impossible to predict where the injectors will remain, in the ramp or in the head, but most likely in the ramp. It is likely that there is pressure in the ramp and splashing around the gasoline cannot be avoided, prepare a rag or oilcloth and cover it at the time of removing the ramp, at least you will save yourself and the surrounding space from abundant irrigation with gasoline :)
Do not forget to remove the 2 plastic bushings on which the ramp was attached
The injectors on the ramp will look like this :)
Pay attention to the rubber o-ring at the bottom of the nozzle. If it is not there, it is likely that it remains in the head of the block. There are 4 such rings, one per nozzle :) Everything is strictly prescribed in the manual O-rings(and by the way, almost all the rubber bands that are in the engine) should not be reused. I don’t know, I don’t know, all my rings turned out to be soft and, in my opinion, quite suitable for further use. Look at the situation for yourself...
Immediately brief assembly instructions. The places for the lower o-rings in the head of the block will most likely be covered in dust and dirt, everything needs to be cleaned carefully. We remove the rings from the nozzles, carefully clean them from dirt / sand. We clean the injectors. Those who wish can wash them, there is material on this topic. Next, I would advise the lower rings to be lubricated with ordinary engine oil and immediately installed in the head of the block. We also lubricate the upper o-rings, put them on the nozzles, lubricate them again on top :) and install the nozzles in the ramp, as in the figure below. Then you will put the ramp assembly with the nozzles in place, into the head, at the same time controlling whether the nozzles fall into the o-rings and adjusting the direction as necessary.
Next, remove the intake manifold. Unscrew fastener. Next, rely on your intuition, because. a block is attached to the manifold on the right throttle valve, and it is almost impossible to describe in detail each wire and hose that fits there. Just see what's bothering you and disconnect.
The connectors are made according to the mind, it will not work to insert them into the wrong sockets. There is a gasket under the collector, it can not be reused (again according to the book). I installed a new one, it's cheap.
We continue ...
A good box wrench (tear off the edges like there is nothing to do ...) with an extension cord (because it's hard ...) slowly! compress the tensioner and remove the belt.
Loosen and remove the right engine mount. Before this procedure, the engine must be slightly jacked up from below in order to avoid its subsidence due to the removal of the support. I advise you to choose a place for installing the jack responsibly so that the jack does not interfere with the removal of the oil pan, and it is still possible to raise the engine to remove the screw securing the belt tensioner. More on that below...
We unscrew the nut (upper arrow) that secures the tensioner and the bolt (lower arrow) on which the entire tensioner structure is attached to the block. Here it will be necessary to raise the engine with a jack, because the bolt is long and it will not work to remove it without jacking it up. Remove tensioner assembly. Assess the condition of the bearing. There was almost no lubrication in mine, I had to fix this flaw :) Now it’s like new. We look carefully at the tensioner bushings, they may also need to be brought into a divine state. More on that towards the end...
We unscrew 3 bolts and remove what the right engine mount was attached to.
In order to reduce the load on the remaining engine mounts with the chain cover removed, I later returned this assembly to its place, simulating the thickness of the cover with nuts of a suitable width.
Unscrew 2 nuts and take out the chain tensioner
We unscrew 2 bolts and set aside the sensor so that it does not interfere :)
Minus 6 bolts - and the pump is in our hands :) Do not lose the sealing ring. Think about the prospects for its further use yourself. If anything - sealant - a good thing:) I don’t remember exactly, but 2 or 3 bolts - short compared to the rest! Be sure to note where they stood and when assembling, put only in their places! Long bolts I don’t recommend screwing into short holes at all, you won’t tighten it to the end and there is a very real chance of damaging the cover. Well, or the bolt will break, as happened with me ... Pulling out the fragment is a separate story ...
The compiler was too lazy to drain the antifreeze from the lower opening of the radiator, so when the pump was removed, about 0.5 liters of antifreeze spilled onto the floor.
We unscrew the bolt securing the power steering pump pulley (we stop the pulley with a screwdriver, in place) and two nuts securing the pump itself. You don't need to remove it at all, let it stay on the bolts.
We unscrew the 2 bolts securing the generator, pull it off and set it aside ...
In fact, the generator is easier to remove altogether. To do this, unscrew the common wire and disconnect the connector suitable for it.
We unscrew the 3 bolts securing the compressor, and, without connecting the hoses, carefully attach it to the lower radiator pipe.
We unscrew the remaining screws / nuts / studs around the perimeter of the cover and, prying it with a screwdriver, remove it. Pry gently without scratching the surface
We remove the star below. During the subsequent installation, be careful that the letter “F” on it should be facing you.
We unscrew the bolt and remove the left chain guide.
Prying off with screwdrivers (or just with your hands), pull the lower gear towards you. It is not necessary to remove it at all, the main thing is to pull it out to such a state that you can remove the chain. Pull out, remove the chain.
We unscrew 2 bolts, remove the right damper.
We turn off the bolt and remove the valve that controls the oil supply to the VVT clutch. Assess the condition, wash, clean. I want to note that it is removed (at least for me) very hard, be careful. Do not try to pull on the connector, it is easy to break.
A little lower, under the valve, you can unscrew the bolt and get the filter through which the oil enters the clutch. The recommendations are the same, wash, clean, according to the situation ...
We unscrew the bolts of the camshaft covers in the indicated order and remove the covers and shafts.
Treat this procedure carefully, each cover will subsequently need to be put in the place where it was and oriented in a certain direction. It is best to lay them out somewhere on the sidelines in exactly the sequence in which they stood on the engine. Under the shafts, valve adjusting cups will be found, a total of 16 pieces. We take it out and lay it out so that later we don’t confuse which valve comes from which glass.
The compiler, having measuring probes, determined the gaps between the pushers and valves. With a run of 105,000 km, the gaps were normal:Inlet 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.15 0.2 (norm 0.15-0.25)
Graduation is all 0.3 (the norm is 0.25-0.35).
We unscrew in the indicated sequence 10 bolts securing the head of the block. Here you will need good tool, because bolts are tight.
Since these bolts will have to be tightened "well", I purchased a large torque wrench. Its lever is enough to unscrew the bolts.
If according to science, then we need the so-called “10 mm bi-hexagon wrench”, in real life it turned out to be an ordinary internal asterisk, in the photo there is a bolt head and a key for it:
Since I didn’t have this key in stock, there was especially nowhere to look / buy, and the importance of the tightening operation was beyond doubt, a knight’s move was made, and along with other junk required during this operation, a special one was ordered and purchased Toyota key, just for this purpose. Here he is:
Did you loosen the screws? Wonderful, just a little left :) Just a little before the end of the disassembly operation ...
Now is the time to work under the car. It is necessary to unscrew the 2 bolts securing the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold
and 3 bolts securing the exhaust manifold bracket. You can remove the cylinder head with it, but putting it on without it is much easier.
Then you need to unscrew the fasteners around the perimeter of the engine tray and remove it. Without a razor or knife, this procedure is difficult to do.
Remove immediately oil filter still change...
We unscrew the bottom 2 nuts and a bolt and remove the oil intake. Under it is a gasket, do not lose it. We evaluate the clogging of the mesh, mine ...
Well, actually, according to the disassembly, everything seems to be. You can try to pull off the block head ... Once again, let's look carefully to see if everything is disconnected from it and if nothing interferes, if we find something, we turn it off. The head is relatively not heavy, I took it off alone and did not experience any particular inconvenience in terms of its weight. If you doubt yourself, call an assistant ...
Diagnostics and repair of the cylinder head Toyota 1ZZ-FE
Initial repair and diagnostic operations:
Using a 10 hex wrench, unscrew the conical screw plug and remove the gasket.
Remove 16 valve lifters from the cylinder head.
Remove all valves from the cylinder head in the sequence described below.
Using a puller, compress the spring and remove the 2 valve spring cotters.
Remove the spring plates, internal valve springs and valves from the cylinder head.
Use pliers with thin jaws to remove 8 valve stem seals.
Via compressed air and magnetic rod, remove the 8 valve spring washers.
Using socket wrenches, remove 10 studs.
Checking the cylinder head of the Toyota 1ZZ-FE engine for deformation:
Using a precision straight edge and a feeler gauge, measure the amount of warping of the planes mating with the cylinder block and manifolds.
The maximum allowable amount of warping:
- from the side of the cylinder block - 0.05 mm;
- from the side of the intake manifold - 0.10 mm;
- from the side of the exhaust manifold - 0.10 mm.
If warpage exceeds the maximum allowable value, replace the cylinder head.
Checking the valve seats of the Toyota 1ZZ-FE engine:
Apply a thin coat of Prussian blue or white lead to the valve bevel.
Lightly press the valve against the seat. Do not rotate the valve.
Check the valve face and valve seat in the order described below.
If there is a continuous track around the entire circumference of the valve chamfer, the valve disc is not skewed. Otherwise, the valve must be replaced.
If there is a continuous trace of paste around the entire circumference valve seats, the axes of the guide sleeve, valve discs and seats are the same. Otherwise, the valve seat surface must be regrinded.
Make sure that the face of the valve mates with middle part valve seat surface, and the width of the contact zone corresponds to the nominal value.
Saddle repair intake valves:
Using a 45° cutter, bore the valve seat surface in the cylinder head slightly wider than the nominal valve seat contact width.
Make sure that the valve face mates with the middle part of the valve seat surface. Otherwise, re-boring the seat surface with a 45° cutter.
Machine the surface of the valve seat with a 30° or 60° cutter so that the contact area between the valve seat and the valve face is in the middle of the bevel.
If the contact area on the valve face is too high, use cutters with a cutting edge angle of 30° and 45° to machine the seat.
If the contact area on the valve face is too low, use cutters with a cutting edge angle of 60° and 45° to machine the seat.
Lappe the valve to the valve seat with grinding paste. The work is done manually.
Recheck the seat fit of the valve.
Checking the axial clearance of the camshaft of the Toyota 1ZZ-FE engine:
Install 2 camshafts.
Displacing camshaft in the axial direction, measure the axial clearance with an indicator.
Rated axial clearance: 0.040 - 0.095 mm. Maximum allowable axial clearance: 0.110 mm.
If the axial clearance exceeds the maximum allowable value, replace the cylinder head. If on the support necks camshaft damaged, replace the camshaft.
Measuring the oil clearance of the camshaft journals
Clean 9 bearing caps and camshaft journals.
Install the camshafts to the Toyota 1ZZ-FE cylinder head.
Lay collapsible plastic gauges axially on all camshaft journals.
Install 9 camshaft bearing caps.
Do not rotate camshafts. Remove 9 bearing caps.
Nominal oil clearance: 0.035–0.072 mm. Maximum allowable oil clearance: 0.10 mm.
After measurement, completely remove the remnants of the crushed plastic gauge.
If the oil clearance exceeds the maximum allowable value, replace the cylinder head or camshaft.
Checking Toyota 1ZZ-FE engine valve tappets:
Measure the diameter of the valve tappet with a micrometer.
Valve lifter diameter: 30.966–30.976 mm.
If the diameter is not correct, replace the valve tappet.
Using a bore gauge, measure the diameter of the valve lifter seat in the cylinder head.
Valve lifter seat diameter: 31.000 - 31.025 mm.
If the diameter is not correct, replace the cylinder head.
Subtract the measured valve lifter diameter from the valve lifter seat diameter.
Nominal oil clearance: 0.024–0.059 mm.
Maximum allowable oil clearance: 0.079 mm.
If the oil clearance exceeds the maximum allowable value, replace the valve tappet. If necessary, replace the cylinder head.
Toyota 1ZZ-FE valve spring check:
Use a caliper to measure the total free length of the valve spring.
Free length: 43.40 mm.
If the free length does not correspond to the nominal value, valve spring should be replaced.
Measure the squareness of the valve spring using a square.
Maximum allowable deviation: 1.6 mm.
Maximum allowable angle (for reference): 2°
If the deviation exceeds the maximum allowable value, replace the valve spring.
On a special stand, measure the compression force of the valve spring at nominal length.
Force at nominal length: 158.6 - 175.4 N at 33.6 mm.
Maximum working force: 335.3 - 370.7 N at 24.1 mm.
If the force at the nominal length does not correspond to the prescribed value, the valve spring must be replaced.
Checking Toyota 1ZZ-FE valves:
Use a caliper to measure the overall length of the valve.
If the total length of the valve is less than the minimum allowable value, the valve must be replaced.
Measure the diameter of the valve stem with a micrometer.
If the diameter is not correct, replace the valve.
Use a caliper to measure the distance from the working chamfer to the edge of the Toyota 1ZZ-FE valve disc.
Nominal distance from the working chamfer to the edge of the valve disc: 1.0 mm.
Minimum allowable distance from the working chamfer to the valve disc: 0.7 mm.
If the distance is less than the minimum allowable value, the valve must be replaced.
Measure the inside diameter of the valve guide with a bore gauge.
Sleeve inner diameter: 5.510–5.530 mm.
If the diameter is not correct, replace the valve guide.
Subtract the measured valve stem diameter from the inside diameter of the valve guide.
If the oil clearance exceeds the maximum allowable value, replace the valve and valve guide.
Toyota 1ZZ-FE valve guide replacement:
Heat up the cylinder head to a temperature of 80-100°C.
Install the cylinder head on wooden blocks.
Using a drift, knock out the valve guide.
Using a bore gauge, measure the diameter of the valve guide seat in the cylinder head. Diameter: 10.285–10.306 mm.
If the diameter of the bushing seat in the cylinder head is greater than 10.306 mm, bore the seat to a diameter of 10.335–10.356 mm to install an oversized valve guide.
Heat the cylinder head again to a temperature of 80–100 °C.
Install the cylinder head on wooden blocks.
Using a drift, drive in the new valve guide to its nominal protrusion. Protrusion height: 8.7-9.1 mm.
With a 5.5 mm reamer, bore the valve guide to a size that provides nominal gap between the valve guide and valve stem.
Installing valve spring washers:
Install 8 valve spring washers into the cylinder head cover.
Lubricate the valve stem seals with engine oil.
Inlet valve stem seals painted in grey colour, and valve stem seals exhaust valves- in black.
Install new valve stem seals.
Valve installation Toyota engine 1ZZ-FE:
Install all valves in the cylinder head according to the procedure described.
Mount the cylinder head on wooden blocks.
Install the valves, internal valve springs and spring plates into the cylinder head.
Compress the spring and install 2 crackers of the valve spring plate on the valve stem.
With a barb 5 and a hammer, lightly hit the upper end of the valve stem so that the crackers take the correct position.
Lubricate 16 valve lifters with engine oil.
Install 16 valve lifters in the cylinder head.
Via end head 10 Screw in the conical screw plug with a new gasket.
Cylinder block, piston group and crankshaft engine Toyota 1ZZ-FE
Disassembly of the Toyota 1ZZ-FE cylinder block:
Remove the coolant drain valve assembly from the cylinder block.
Rotate the crankshaft and set the #1 cylinder piston to TDC on the compression stroke.
While shifting the connecting rod back and forth, use an indicator to measure the axial clearance in the connecting rods of cylinders No. 2 and No. 3.
Rated axial clearance: 0.160 - 0.342 mm. Maximum allowable axial clearance: 0.342 mm.
If the axial clearance exceeds the maximum allowable value, replace the connecting rod.
If necessary, replace the crankshaft. Turn the Toyota 1ZZ-FE crankshaft and set the #2 cylinder piston to TDC on the compression stroke.
Moving the connecting rod back and forth, measure the end play in the connecting rods of cylinders No. 1 and No. 4 with an indicator.
Measure the oil clearance in the connecting rods of cylinders #2 and #3. Turn out 4 bolts of fastening and remove 2 covers of rods.
Place a crushable plastic gauge along the crankpin.
Make sure the tabs on the connecting rod bearing caps are in the correct direction.
Mark the front side of each of the connecting rod cap bolts with paint. Tighten the cover bolts by 90°.
Make sure the crankshaft rotates smoothly. Turn out 4 bolts and remove 2 covers of rods.
Measure the collapsible plastic gauges at their widest point.
When replacing the bearing shell, select the number stamped on the connecting rod.
Bearing shells are supplied in 3 standard size classes, marked respectively with the numbers "1", "2" and "3".
Rotate the crankshaft and set the #2 cylinder piston to TDC on the compression stroke.
Measure the oil clearance in the connecting rods of cylinders #1 and #4. Turn out 4 bolts and remove 2 covers of rods.
Clean all connecting rod journals and connecting rod bearing shells.
Check for pits or scratches on the crankpins and bearing shells.
Lay a crumpled plastic caliber along the connecting rod journal of the crankshaft of the Toyota 1ZZ-FE engine.
Make sure the front marks on the connecting rod bearing caps are correctly positioned.
Apply a light coat of engine oil to the threads and under the connecting rod cap bolt heads.
Tighten the bolts in several stages to the prescribed torque. Tightening torque: 20 Nm.
Mark the front side of each of the connecting rod cap bolts with paint.
Tighten the cover bolts by 90°. Make sure the crankshaft rotates smoothly.
Turn out 4 bolts and remove 2 covers of rods.
Measure the collapsible plastic gauges at their widest point.
Nominal oil clearance: 0.028–0.060 mm. Maximum allowable oil clearance: 0.080 mm.
Dismantling of the connecting rod and piston group Toyota 1ZZ-FE:
Use a reamer to remove carbon from the top of the cylinder.
Push the piston, complete with connecting rod and upper bearing shell, up and out of the cylinder.
The connecting rod bearing shells, connecting rod and connecting rod cap are one set, so they should be put together.
When disassembling, the pistons and connecting rods should be folded so that they can be installed in the same places during subsequent assembly.
Remove the lower connecting rod bearing from the cover.
Remove the upper connecting rod bearing from the connecting rod.
Using a piston ring plier, remove the 2 compression rings.
Using your hands, remove the 2 sidewalls of the composite oil scraper ring.
Use a small screwdriver to remove the 2 circlips.
Heat the pistons to a temperature of 80–90 °C.
Using a plastic hammer and a brass rod, carefully knock out the piston pin and remove the connecting rod.
Piston pins are selected according to the size of the hole in the piston.
Lay out the pistons, pins, circlips, connecting rods and connecting rod bearing shells in such an order that they are installed in their original places during subsequent assembly.
Toyota 1ZZ-FE crankshaft removal operations:
Remove the 10 mounting bolts from the main bearing cap block.
In several stages, evenly, loosen and remove the 10 bearing cap assembly bolts in sequence.
Using a screwdriver at the indicated points between the cylinder block and the main bearing cap block, separate the main bearing cap block.
Remove the crankshaft from the cylinder block.
Using a screwdriver, shifting the Toyota 1ZZ-FE crankshaft in the axial direction, measure the axial clearance with a dial indicator.
Rated axial clearance: 0.04 - 0.24 mm.
Maximum allowable axial clearance: 0.30 mm.
If the axial clearance exceeds the maximum allowable value, measure the thickness of the thrust half rings.
If the thickness of the thrust half ring is not within specification, replace the thrust half ring.
Thrust half ring nominal thickness: 2.430–2.480 mm.
Take from the block of cylinders 2 persistent half rings.
Remove 5 main bearing shells from the cylinder block.
Using socket wrenches, remove 9 studs.
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A long time ago, in a galaxy far, far away, one of our regular customers decided to buy an SUV, but because he had limited budget, fluctuated between an almost new Chevrolet Niva and not a young RAV4.
And now, finally, it happened. A 2001 RAV4 with a 1.8 liter 1ZZ-FE engine and a tear-jerking story of a happy new owner drove by. Since the car was bought in the neighboring region, they pulled it up to the lift at the local service station, measured the compression, which turned out to be 11 in all pots, and rated it perfectly, they let it go home. But it was not there! On the way home, it turned out that the car was eating oil in buckets. The reason lies in the factory defect. On 1ZZ-FE engines until 2004, there were only two drainage holes in the groove of the piston oil scraper ring, with a run of 140,000 they coked and the rings lay. Later, four holes were made in the piston on each side, which solved the problem. Therefore, there is only one way out: we change the old pistons for new-type pistons, as well as rings and connecting rod bearings. Piston kit 13101-22180. On the selection of spare parts, it is well written in this article. By the way, the previous owner aggravated this situation, pouring the native oil L ... (well, you understand) - it’s necessary not to love the Japanese so much.
Description
Disconnect the negative battery terminal. We remove the ignition modules, the air filter with the housing. Drain antifreeze and oil. Disconnect the fuel line.
Disconnect the injector connectors and remove the fuel rail. O-rings will need to be replaced.
Disconnect all pipes coming from throttle assembly, unscrew the two nuts and three bolts for 12 intake manifold.
We remove the manifold together with the throttle. We disconnect all the electrics from the generator and starter, as well as from the air conditioning compressor and DD.
Just everything from the side of the box and remove the wiring harness, so as not to interfere.
Disconnect the intake pipe from the exhaust manifold.
In several passes, we first loosen and then unscrew the 19 bolts of the camshaft bearing caps, always in the indicated sequence.
We remove the bearing caps and carefully lay them in the same way as they were removed.
Remove the camshafts. The intake valve shaft is longer.
Similarly, in several passes, loosen and unscrew 10 cylinder head bolts. Required in the specified order. Neglecting the last rule, you risk at least taking the head for grinding, and at most acquiring another one.
We remove the washers with the bolts, as well as mark and remove the valve lifters. We remove the cylinder head.
And the old gasket.
We unscrew a lot of bolts and two nuts of the oil pan and remove it. It is sealed, so you have to tinker.
We unscrew the two bolts of each connecting rod cover and carefully, having loosened it, remove it. The liner must remain in the lid. If not, remove them from the crankshaft and put them back into the cover. We mark from which cylinder each cover. Do not confuse. The front of the bearing cap is marked with a low tide.
We push the piston with the connecting rods up.
We see the stuck oil scraper rings.
The rings were coked to such an extent that I picked them out with a knife, the drainage holes were clogged tightly.
While we are dealing with the piston, in the next box, specialist Seryoga is conjuring over the head. Having measured the plane, it pleases us with the fact that it is not necessary to give it for grinding.
But what happened to the valves and channels. There are no comments here.
Well, how can the youngest clean all this for me, but they say we have democracy. I cleaned, Seryoga changed the valve seals. It was evening.
Having received the assembled cylinder head, I went to collect the engine. Well, everything here is like in a book.
If the connecting rod bearings are scuffed, replace them.
We will not grind the crankshaft, since the client is already over the budget. For the money that a full capital costs, you can drag a 2005 contract soldier. On inserts with reverse side there is a marking, according to it we order new ones.
We knock out a finger from the old piston, having previously picked out the retaining ring. We sweep on the connecting rod in front, as well as the cylinder number.
Collecting a new one.
We put a retaining ring on one side of the piston.
We combine the marks in front of the piston and connecting rod. We lubricate the new piston pin with engine oil and, using the thumb of the right hand, press the piston into place.
Install the second retaining ring. All four in the same way.
Check gaps in new piston rings. We insert the rings in turn into the cylinder where they will subsequently work.
We push the piston to a depth of 110 mm.
We measure the gap.
The minimum gap for the first compression is 0.25 mm, for the second - 0.35 and for the oil scraper - 0.15 mm. If less you have to sharpen. Maximum 1.05 1.2 and 1.05mm respectively.
On some rings there are marks, they should look up. We put everything in its place, the first compression, the second, two oil scrapers and an expander.
Degrease the adjacent surfaces of the connecting rod and bearing. We put new liners in the connecting rod and cover. We do not lubricate with oil and make sure that nothing gets under the liners.
We unfold the rings with locks as shown schematically in the photo.
1 - lock of the first compression ring
2 - the lock of the lower scraper of the oil scraper ring
3 - lock of the second compression ring
4 — the lock of the top scraper of an oil scraper ring
Lubricate clean oil mandrel for rings, compress the rings and put the piston in the cylinder. Do not forget about the label "before".
Push the piston with the wooden handle of the hammer. Lubricate the crankshaft journals, as well as the liners, with clean oil. Putting the covers in place connecting rod bearings. Do not confuse numbers and direction. We tighten the bolts by hand. We tighten all the bolts with a torque of 20 N * m, after which we tighten another 90 degrees. We scroll the crankshaft, it should rotate easily without jamming. Install the oil pan and new head gasket.
We clean all the head bolts, as well as the holes in the block from oil and dirt. We put the cylinder head in place. We tighten the bolts in several passes, in a certain sequence, with a torque of 49 N * m and turn them 90 degrees.
Put the valve lifters in place. We lubricate everything with oil.
Camshafts, key on front side should look up.
We install the camshaft bearing caps in accordance with the direction and number. Intake I2 I3 I4 I5 and exhaust E2 E3 E4 E5. The arrow indicates the direction "before".
Tighten the bolts evenly in the sequence shown. After preliminary tightening of bolts No. 9, we twist all the rest in several passes. The tightening torque for bolts No. 9 is 23 N * m, the rest - 13 N * m.
Next, install the timing drive, Fill in good new oil and antifreeze. To remove the airlock, you can alternately remove the stove hoses, they are just at the very top. After the final assembly, without connecting the injector connectors, we scroll the engine with the starter, several approaches for five seconds. We connect the nozzles and, having squeezed the clutch, we start. I had two spark plugs before starting. After it starts up, doem to work on idling, turn off, check the antifreeze, top up. And so several times. After airlock eliminated, warm up until the cooling fan operates and turn off. Let cool, check the antifreeze and repeat two or three more times. After that, you can drive, but only the first 200 - 300 km we protect the engine, we try not to give more than 3000 revolutions and, most importantly, do not overheat. Further at will, but it is better to roll the first thousand calmly.
Video: "Toyota 1ZZ-FE Engine (Design Review)"
Good luck on the roads. No nail, no wand.
Note:
Thoroughly clean all parts before installation.
Before installation grease all rubbing surfaces of details with new engine oil.
Replace all gaskets, seals and valve stem seals with new ones.
1. Install the cylinder head on cylinder block,
(a) Install a new cylinder head gasket with the mark facing up.
b) Carefully lower the cylinder head onto the gasket.
2. Wrap bolts of fastening of a head of the block of cylinders.
Note:
- The block head bolts are tightened in two steps (6) and (d).
- If one of the bolts is damaged, replace it.
A) Before installing, apply some engine oil to the bolt threads and under
bolt heads.
b) Using a 10 mm Allen key, install and evenly tighten the 10 cylinder head bolts with washers in several stages in the sequence shown in the figure.
Tightening torque 29.4 Nm
If any of the bolts are not tightened to the specified torque, replace them.
c) Paint the edge of the bolt facing the front of the engine (side away from the PTO) as shown in the figure.
d) Tighten all bolts in the sequence noted above, tightening them by 90°,
and then another 90°.
e) Check that all bolt marks are rotated 180° from their original position.
f) Install the bolt that secures the coolant bypass pipe to the
cylinder head. Tightening torque 9 Nm
g) Connect the upper radiator hose to the fitting.
h) Connect the heater hose to the fitting
3. Install the camshafts,
A) Install the camshafts so that the valve cams
the first cylinder were located as shown in the figure.
b) Fit the camshaft bearing caps to: the appropriate
necks according to the numbers stamped on them, as shown in the figure; while the arrows on
bearing caps must face the front of the engine
(in the direction opposite to the power take-off)
c) Apply motor oil on threads and under bolt heads
d) Install and evenly tighten the 19 bearing cap bolts.
After pre-tightening the bolts securing the bearing cover No. 1, tighten
the rest in several passes in the order shown in the figure.
Tightening torque for the camshaft journal bolts: N31 23 Nm
other 13 Nm
4. Install the camshaft sprocket and sprocket VVT systems
(cm. Timing chain section ")
(a) Apply some engine oil to the end of the intake camshaft.
b) Align the shaft pin with the VVT sprocket hole and install the sprocket.
c) Align the shaft pin with the sprocket hole and install the sprocket
d) Install the sprocket bolt.
e) Fix the shaft with a wrench on the hexagonal part and tighten the bolt.
Tightening torque 64 Nm
5. Check and, if necessary, adjust the clearance in the valve drive
(see section " Valve clearance adjustment ")
6. Install the cylinder head cover (see Timing chain section ").
7. Install the VVT valve
8. Install the oil filter cap
9. Install the positive crankcase ventilation valve.
10. Install the coolant temperature sensor
11. Install the camshaft position sensor
(See chapter "Ignition system")
12. Install the timing chain target cover (See Timing Chain section).
13. Install the intake manifold.
a) Install a new intake manifold gasket, intake manifold
and two brackets. Tighten the three bolts and two nuts evenly in several steps.
Tightening torque 30 Nm
b) Connect the brake booster vacuum hose.
c) Connect the evaporative emission hose.
14. Connect the engine wiring harness to the cylinder head.
(a) Secure the wire harness boot with the two clips on the intake manifold.
manifold and tighten the two bolts.
b) Connect the coolant temperature sensor connector,
c) Connect the camshaft position sensor connector,
d) Connect the VVT valve connector.
e) Connect the injector connectors.
f) Connect the two ground wires and tighten the two screws.
15. Install the throttle body (see chapter " fuel injection system ").
16. Connect the hoses of the forced crankcase ventilation system to the cover
cylinder heads.
17. Install the spark plugs (see chapter "Ignition system").
18. Install the ignition coils (see chapter "Ignition system")
19. Install the exhaust manifold,
a) Install a new gasket and exhaust manifold. evenly in several
tighten the three bolts and two nuts securing the exhaust manifold.
Tightening torque 27 Nm
b) Install the upper heat shield and tighten the four screws securing it.
Tightening torque 8 Nm
20. Install the exhaust manifold strut and evenly in several steps
tighten the three bolts of its fastening. Tightening torque 37 Nm
21. Connect the exhaust pipe to exhaust manifold.
A) Install a new gasket on the exhaust manifold.
b) Install two springs, tighten the two bolts securing the exhaust pipe to
exhaust manifold
Tightening torque 62 Nm
22. Connect the accelerator cable.
23. Install the air filter.
24. Install the alternator and alternator drive belt.
25. Fill with coolant
26. Start the engine and check for coolant leaks.
27. Check coolant and engine oil levels.
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Cylinder head of 1ZZ-FE engine of Toyota Corolla
Cylinder head of 1ZZ-FE engine of Toyota Corolla Fielder
Rice. 19. Removal and installation of the cylinder head of the ICE 1ZZ-FE car Toyota Corolla Fielder
1 - downpipe exhaust system, 2 - spring, 3, 18, 20 - gasket, 4 - cylinder head assembly, 5 - washer, b - camshaft No. 1, 7 - camshaft No. 2, 8 - camshaft cover No. 1, 9 - camshaft cover, 10 - cover air filter, 11 - throttle control cable, 12 - coolant bypass hose #2, 13 - radiator inlet hose, 14 - engine wiring harness, 15 - valve VVT-i systems, 16 - oil dipstick, 17, 19 - O-ring, 21 - intake manifold.
Rice. 20. Disassembly and assembly of the cylinder head of the ICE 1ZZ-FE car Toyota Corolla, Toyota Auris
1 - washer, 2 - crankcase ventilation and systems hose, 3 - cylinder head cover, 4, 21 - gasket, 5 - camshaft bearing cap, 6 - camshaft bearing cap No. 1, 7 - exhaust camshaft, 8 - camshaft sprocket, 9 -
intake camshaft, 10 - VVT system sprocket, 11 - pusher, 12 - crackers, 13 - valve spring plate, 14 - valve spring, 15 - valve stem seal, 16 - valve spring seat, 17 - valve guide, 18 - valve, 19 - heater hose, 20 - upper radiator hose, 22 - cylinder head, 23 - water pump, 24 - O-ring, 25 - position sensor crankshaft, 26 - timing chain damper, 27 - crankshaft position sensor rotor, 28 - crankshaft pulley, 29 - oil seal, 30 - timing chain tensioner mechanism, 31 - timing chain cover, 32 - timing chain tensioner, 33 - Timing chain, 34 - drive belt tensioner mounted units, 35 - bracket right support engine.
Work on removing the cylinder head of the ICE 1ZZ-FE car Toyota Corolla Fielder, Toyota Auris
Before starting work, remove the remaining fuel from the line.
Remove the timing chain.
Remove camshafts.
Evenly loosen and remove the 19 camshaft bearing cap bolts.
Remove the nine bearing caps, intake and exhaust shafts.
Evenly loosen and remove the 10 head mounting bolts. Remove 10 washers.
Insert a screwdriver between the cylinder head and the cylinder block and, using it as a lever, remove the cylinder head.
Cylinder head installation work Toyota Corolla Fielder, Toyota Auris
Replace all gaskets and seals with new ones.
Install the cylinder head to the cylinder block.
Install the new cylinder head gasket with the mark facing up.
Lower the cylinder head onto the gasket.
Wrap bolts of fastening of a head of the block of cylinders 1ZZ-FE.
Before installing, apply a light coat of engine oil to the threads and under the bolt heads.
Using a 10mm Allen key, install and evenly tighten the 10 cylinder head bolts with washers in several steps.
Paint the edge of the bolt facing the front of the engine (opposite the PTO side).
Tighten all bolts in the sequence noted above by turning them 90°.
Make sure all bolt marks are rotated 90° from their original position.
Connect the coolant bypass pipe. Tightening torque 9 Nm.
Install the camshafts Toyota Corolla Fielder, Toyota Auris so that the cams of the valves of the first cylinder are located in the desired direction.
Mount the camshaft bearing caps on the corresponding journals in accordance with the numbers stamped on them, while the arrows on the bearing caps must be directed towards the front of the engine (in the direction opposite to the power take-off).
Apply engine oil to the threads and back of the bolt heads.
Install and evenly tighten the 19 bearing cap bolts. After pre-tightening the #1 bearing cap bolts, tighten the remaining bolts in several passes.
Check and, if necessary, adjust the clearance in the valve drive. Install the drive chain.
Cylinder block of 1ZZ-FE engine of Toyota Corolla, Toyota Auris
Rice. 21. Parts of the cylinder block Toyota Corolla Fielder, Toyota Auris
1 - coolant bypass tube, 2, 7, 10 - gasket, 3 - guide oil dipstick and probe, 4 - O-ring, 5 - knock sensor, 6 - coolant supply pipe, 8 - thermostat, 9 - oil pump, 11 - engine coolant drain fitting.
Rice. 22. Disassembly and assembly of the engine block 1ZZ-FE
1 - connecting rod upper head bushing, 2 - connecting rod, 3 - connecting rod bearing shells, 4 - connecting rod cap, 5, 7 - thrust washers, 6 - crankshaft main bearing upper shell, 8 - crankshaft rear oil seal, 9 - lower bearing shell crankshaft, 10 - crankshaft, 11 - main bearing cap, 12 - bypass (bolt, 13 - oil filter, 14 - oil pan, 15, 17 - gasket, 16 - oil receiver, 18 - cylinder block, 19, 21 - locking ring, 20 - piston pin, 22 - piston, 23 - oil scraper ring expander, 24 - oil scraper ring scrapers, 25 -
compression ring No. 2, 26 - compression ring No. 1.
Operations for disassembling the cylinder block of a Toyota Corolla engine:
Remove the drive plate.
Install the engine on a stand for disassembly.
Remove the cylinder head 1ZZ-FE.
Remove the dipstick guide and dipstick.
Loosen the bolt and remove the dipstick guide and dipstick.
Remove the O-ring from the guide. Remove the thermostat.
Remove the bolt and two nuts, remove the coolant bypass pipe.
Using the special tool, remove the knock sensor.
Remove the coolant drain plug.
Remove oil pump. Remove the oil filter.
Remove the fitting. Remove 14 bolts and two nuts.
Insert tool blade between main bearing cap and oil pan.
Cut off the sealant and remove the oil pan.
Having unscrewed the bolt and two nuts, remove the oil receiver and gasket.
Operations for assembling a cylinder block of a Toyota Corolla, Toyota Auris engine:
Install a new gasket and oil receiver, tighten the two nuts and bolt.
Install the oil pan.
Using a blade and scraper, remove old sealant from the contact surfaces and sealant recesses.
Thoroughly clean all components before installation.
Using a non-residue solvent, clean surfaces before applying sealant.
Apply fresh sealant to the surface of the pan.
Tighten the 14 bolts and two oil pan nuts evenly in several steps.
Insert the oil filter bypass screw. Tightening torque 30 Nm.
Install the oil filter. Mount the oil pump.
Install the 1ZZ-FE engine coolant drain fitting.
Apply sealant to 2-3 threads of the fitting.
Close the fitting. Tightening torque 38 Nm.
After tightening the fitting to the required torque, turn it clockwise until the drain hole is at the bottom.
Install a knock sensor. Install the coolant bypass pipe with a new gasket, tighten the bolt and two nuts.
Install thermostat. Install the dipstick guide and dipstick.
Install a new O-ring on the dipstick guide.
Apply soapy water to the O-ring.
Connect the dipstick guide to the top of the oil pan.
Install the oil dipstick guide bolt.
Mount the cylinder head. Install sprockets and timing chain.
Remove the engine from the stand. Automatic models - Install the drive plate.
Lock the crankshaft with the special tool.
Install the front spacer, drive plate and rear plate to the engine crankshaft of Toyota Corolla Fielder, Toyota Auris.
Apply sealant to 2 to 3 threads of the bolt.
Insert and tighten eight bolts evenly in several passes.
Manual Transmission Models - Install the flywheel. Lock the crankshaft with the special tool.
Install eight flywheel bolts. Mark the bolt.
Tighten the bolts by 90°. Make sure all marks are rotated 90° from their original position.
