Brief characteristics 4 A Ge engines

Page dedicated to modification 4A - GE

In this article, I talk about the various improvements that will be needed to

in order to increase the power of the 4A - GE engine (from Toyota with a volume of 1600

cubes) from low 115 hp. up to 240 hp gradually with an increase of 10l.s. on

every stage, and maybe with a big increase!

To begin with, there are four types of 4A engines - GE -

Large bore (large valve bore) with TVIS

Small channel without TVIS

20 valve version

Version with mech. supercharger (supercharger)

To say that writing a page like this is difficult, it's nothing to say!

The number of deviations in power for all 4A-SAME in the world, this is the number

115 HP - 134 hp

This is the difference in horsepower between standard 4A-SAME in the world. The Air Flow Meter

(incoming air counter, hereinafter AFM) on the TVIS version issues

115 HP common to the US and other countries. air pressure sensor

intake manifold (The manifold Air Pressure Sensor = MAP) with TVIS version,

which is even more common, will produce 127 hp. These are most often

found in Japan, Australia and New Zealand. Both types of these kits

put on AE-82. AE-86 and other Corollas, and have a large intake

windows. 4A-ZHE Corolla AE-92 does not have TVIS, and therefore small intake

150 HP - 160 HP

Timing of the standard camshaft continues 240 degrees, from a standstill

into place, and this is typical of the modern two-shaft motor path. Pair

camshafts at 256 degrees and the aforementioned tweaks will give you from 140 hp.

150 HP this paragraph will give you approximately 150 hp. if all

correct, but if you need more, then of course you will need camshafts with

mark 264 degrees. This is the maximum size of the camshafts that you

can be used with the factory computer, as for proper operation

you will have to ignore the vacuum values ​​in the VP. collector. Version with sensor

AFM might be a little richer, but I don't have any information on that.

You can't get 160 hp. with a standard computer, and you also

will have to spend a few dollars on additional systems. I would

advised to take a programmable system than chips or any other

additives to a standard computer. because if you want more

horses later, then you will not be limited in your capabilities, unlike

150 HP -160 hp this is such a mark in which some

head work. Fortunately, there is not much to finish and if

You head is off, then you can effectively spend a little more time and

make dorobotki that will allow you to pull out of your engine up to 180-190

There are 4 areas on 4A - GE heads that need attention

The area above the valve seats, the combustion chamber, and the ports themselves

valves and valve seats themselves.

The area above the saddles is a bit too parallel and needs a little

narrowing to create a little Venturi effect.

The combustion chamber has numerous sharp edges that are necessary

smooth to prevent early ignition of the fuel, etc.

Inlet and outlet ports (holes) are quite normal in standard, but

they are not much big in the head with large walk-through windows and a little

160 HP - 170 hp

Now let's start shooting some serious power. You can forget about giving some

or emission regulations that may apply in your country J .

You will need camshafts at least 288 degrees, and you can already

start thinking about changing the bottom dead center (BDC in the future).

It also starts approaching the limit of the intake manifold, and this is already

the mark from which things become expensive.

All head work described in the preceding paragraph will include

to the sum of power for this paragraph, so as to improve 150

hp -160 hp you will need to increase the compression in the engine (cylinders

engine). There are two options _ grinding the head of the block or buying

new pistons. Standard pistons are quite normal for 160 hp. without

doubt, but after that I recommend using good non-standard

kits such as Wisco. You will need 10.5:1 compression. a c

using petrol with octane rating 96 compression increase possible

up to 11:1 without worrying too much about detonation!

Standard pins (piston pin) can be used up to 170 hp. but

then you should change them to the best you can get, for example

ARP or small block Chevy. (I mean, if you are going to change

them it will also be useful work.

You must also be prepared to rev the engine up to 8000 rpm. And maybe

8500 rpm

intake manifold little problem, but if you're smart enough, then

you can make a double (split collector) for a throttle for each in style

Weber, which will be much cheaper (for example, all work with materials

will cost 150 Australian dollars, but if you do the same work with

buying branded spare parts it will easily result in 1200 av. dollars!) And I

did this. kuvil cast plate about 8 mm thick. and

thick-walled pipe with a diameter of 52 mm. Then I cut out the flange for the base.

Weber and under the cylinders on the head. Then I cut four pipes of equal length

and partially crushed them so that they looked like inlet windows. And further

spent two days on grinding and sharpening so that all the details fit, and already

then welded it all up. Spent two hours smoothing seams from welding.

Then I ran a special machine to check the throughput

right angle between head and throttles.

190 HP - 200 hp

Pushed to the limit allowable size distribution shaft - 304 degrees. And you

you need 11:1 compression; 200 HP an approximate aisle for a head with small

After 200 hp 4A-Zhe is becoming an increasingly serious engine, and therefore

requires more and more attention to detail. From this point we start

spend everything more money for less results. But if you still

want extra horses you have to spend dollars:

The reason I jumped from 200hp up to 220 hp this is what i know

there are not many people who have done something like this from 4A-SAME, so

I don't have much information about them. I find that after the 180 mark

hp these are real racers who do their best to achieve

more than 200hp although it is a small jump. The reason why I

missed values ​​170 hp-180 hp -190 hp - 200 hp it is one and the same

differences between these marks. You do little here and there with compression

etc. It really doesn't take much work to jump from 170

hp up to 200 hp

So we need shafts with a marking of 310 degrees. and a rise of 0.360 / 9.1 mm.

You should also start thinking about where to get cup liners,

which have shims of at least 13 mm. it will be

preferable than 25 mm. washers that sit on the glass itself.

Because camshafts greater than 300 degrees. and valve lift 8 mm (approx.)

the edges of the washers that are installed above the glass will rarely touch

with a camshaft protrusion, while the cam will be thrown to the side, which

will instantly lead to the destruction of the glass and, more truthfully, a piece of the

heads in milliseconds! Sets of cup washers (gaskets)

can be bought both from the turbojet engine and in other sports stores, but this

will cost a lot of money!

Large seat valves are also expensive, but again I know the way to lower

price. I found out that the valves from 7M-ZhTE (Toyota Supra) look like a set of large

It is preferable to use a small crankshaft up to 220 hp. than

large, because larger bushings create more friction at the same time

large diameter (42 mm. vs. 40 mm.) has the best radial speed on

I would be happy to use standard cranks (with the above bolts

from) up to 220 hp but after that it would be better to install something like Carillo's,

Cunningham, or Crower connecting rods. They must be made in such a way that

weight was 10% less than standard to reduce reciprocating

Pistons from also passed their limit, and so it is better to take it high -

high-quality (and of course expensive) pistons for example. Mahle

Using a standard oil pump, we run the risk of overflowing grease in five

areas, and the solution to this problem may be, or the purchase of an expensive

unit from the turbojet engine, or simply adjust the 1GG pump. They cost enough

If I had a bag of money and a lot of free time, then I could

get 260 hp from 4A-SAME. More is better. I would make the piston stroke shorter and

bored sleeves to put the piston as much as possible, trying

store a volume of about 1600 cubes. Further I would install titanium connecting rods

upgraded or purchased pneumatic valve springs so that

spin the engine up to 15,000 rpm, or more if possible.

Or, I would just take a regular 4A-ZHE, reduce the compression to 7.5: 1 and put

turbine:.

Getting even more horses for less cost.

Okay, now seriously, the best way to get a wheezy turbo engine.

(4A-ZTE) will, just buy 4A-ZHE, sell the supercharger and manifold,

then, with the money received, a bearing turbine and RWD collectors from AE-86.

Buy bent pipes in any store exhaust systems, do

exhaust manifold for the turbine, and you can even try to leave

standard computer from 4A-ZhZE or, saving a lot of time and avoiding

problems, buy a programmable advanced computer.

Using my computer dyno program, I calculated that with enough

a low pressure of 16 psi will give you about 300 hp. You will also need

intercooler, they are quite common these days. I also put

camshafts are larger than standard - 260 degrees.

300 HP - 400 hp (maybe more?)

To get more than 300 hp needs a little more work

something similar to dorobotki 4A-ZHE for 220 hp (see above). The same

forged crankshaft, non-serial connecting rods, low compression pistons (somewhere

7:1), big valves and washers for valve cups. Plus a turbine

collector. (I doubt factory manifolds will be good enough

so the above will have to be done by hand. It's not so much

difficult, how long will it take some time)

And again on the dyno test. So with a pressure of 20 psi, the engine produces 400 hp.

If you can make an engine capable of withstanding 30

psi you can jump over the 500 hp mark.

Doing more than this is possible, in my opinion, because turbocharged

Formula 1 engine. late 80s, with a volume of 1500 cubes

more than 1000 hp I don't think it's possible with the above

alterations based on 4A-SAME, but. J

4A-ZHE 20 valve engines

I have never worked with 20 valves, but by and large the engine

there is an engine. The only difference is that this engine has three

intake valves, so some of the usual rules don't work. Toyota

advertises them as 162 hp. (165 hp) for the first version and 167 hp. for the second

(latest) version. FWIW, the first version has silver valve lid and

AFM sensor, and on the second black and MAP sensor.

Toyota may be lying when they say a 20-valve valve puts out that much.

horses - judging by the measurements that I have ever heard

they give out 145hp. - 150 hp So I think the best way to raise

power of the standard 4A-ZHE (16 valve version) with 115 hp -134 hp before

150 HP - it's just to stick an engine with a 20 valve version. Exception

there will only be rear wheel drive cars like the AE-86. just needs to be done

hole in the fireproof partition (between the engine compartment and the passenger compartment) for

distributor (breaker-distributor) or.

As far as I can see, there is not much to do, except for grinding the intake

windows and multi-angle work with seats valves (seats)

great return, and again, all this up to 200 hp. will continue to change

insides into stronger and lighter knots. It turns out the same

a combination to increase power, but mainly with an increase in speed

145 HP -165 HP

The earliest 4A-ZhZE is equipped with 145 hp. and there are 3 options (on my

look) get more horses in the herd - just install more

later version, which already has 165 hp. or put a big gear

crankshaft (this will allow you to rotate the supercharger faster, at lower speeds,

and therefore get more air) anything from HKS or

Cusco. And the third option is the same as what you would do with the usual

165 HP - 185 HP

Again, the easiest way to go from 165 hp. up to 185 hp - it's simple

put in bigger camshafts and maybe a little grinding work

(stripping) constrictions in the intake and exhaust manifolds. At the end of this

power scale, I think that the intake manifold is too narrow, because.

the supercharger blows into one barrel, which then divides it into four

channel, one channel for each cylinder. The problem is that three of these

channels enter the head at an angle far from a straight line and therefore an acute angle

will create unwanted turbulence (FWIW, channel for the first

cylinder fits at a ridiculous angle.) If you spend a little time and

put enough effort into making a quality calector (or

it is possible to simply put a collector like from the rear-wheel drive AE-86),

which will easily give you an extra 20 hp.

Large camshafts at 264 degrees. make their huge contribution, but as with

The best 4A-JZE I have ever heard of was

something around 200 hp I believe that no issues on it were made

the above modifications. I think that the best way receive

more output power is to install a supercharger from 1ЖЖЗЕ, which, when

pumps 17 percent more air at the same speed than the standard

this also means that it has to spin slower to get

the same amount (as on standard) air at one speed. This

means that the engine will suffer a loss of power (failure) rather than

it would be with a smaller supercharger. The failure I'm talking about is

power that is not enough when the tachometer needle goes beyond the red

line. Then the power increases sharply, in accordance with the rpm

Engines 5А,4А,7А-FE
The most common and today the most widely repaired of Japanese engines is the engines of the (4,5,7) A-FE series. Even a novice mechanic, diagnostician knows about possible problems engines of this series. I will try to highlight (collect into a single whole) the problems of these engines. There are few of them, but they cause a lot of trouble to their owners.

Date from scanner:

On the scanner, you can see a short but capacious date, consisting of 16 parameters, by which you can really evaluate the operation of the main engine sensors.

Sensors
Oxygen sensor -

Many owners turn to diagnostics due to increased fuel consumption. One of the reasons is a banal break in the heater in the oxygen sensor. The error is fixed by the control unit code number 21. The heater can be checked with a conventional tester on the sensor contacts (R- 14 Ohm)

Fuel consumption increases due to the lack of correction during warm-up. You will not be able to restore the heater - only a replacement will help. The cost of a new sensor is high, and it makes no sense to install a used one (their operating time is large, so this is a lottery). In such a situation, less reliable universal NTK sensors can be installed as an alternative. The term of their work is short, and the quality leaves much to be desired, so such a replacement is a temporary measure, and it should be done with caution.

When the sensor sensitivity decreases, fuel consumption increases (by 1-3 liters). The performance of the sensor is checked by an oscilloscope on the block diagnostic connector, or directly on the sensor chip (number of switching).

Temperature sensor.
At wrong work The owner's sensor is waiting for a lot of problems. If the measuring element of the sensor breaks, the control unit replaces the sensor readings and fixes its value by 80 degrees and fixes error 22. The engine, with such a malfunction, will operate normally, but only while the engine is warm. As soon as the engine cools down, it will be problematic to start it without doping, due to the short opening time of the injectors. There are frequent cases when the resistance of the sensor changes randomly when the engine is running at H.X. - the revolutions will float

This defect is easy to fix on the scanner, observing the temperature reading. On a warm engine, it should be stable and not randomly change values ​​from 20 to 100 degrees

With such a defect in the sensor, a “black exhaust” is possible, unstable operation on H.X. and, as a result, increased consumption, as well as the inability to start "hot". Only after 10 minutes of sludge. If there is no complete confidence in the correct operation of the sensor, its readings can be replaced by including a 1 kΩ variable resistor or a constant 300 ohm resistor in its circuit for further verification. By changing the readings of the sensor, the change in speed at different temperatures is easily controlled.

Throttle position sensor

A lot of cars go through the process of assembly and disassembly. These are the so-called "constructors". When removing the engine field conditions and subsequent assembly, sensors suffer, on which the engine is often leaned. When the TPS sensor breaks, the engine stops throttling normally. The engine bogs down when revving. The machine switches incorrectly. Error 41 is fixed by the control unit. When replacing a new sensor, it must be adjusted so that the control unit correctly sees the sign of X.X., with the gas pedal fully released (throttle closed). In the absence of a sign of idling, adequate regulation of H.X. will not be carried out. and there will be no forced idling mode during engine braking, which again will entail increased fuel consumption. On engines 4A, 7A, the sensor does not require adjustment, it is installed without the possibility of rotation.
THROTTLE POSITION……0%
IDLE SIGNAL……………….ON

Sensor absolute pressure MAP

This sensor is the most reliable of all installed on Japanese cars. His resilience is simply amazing. But it also has a lot of problems, mainly due to improper assembly. Either the receiving “nipple” is broken, and then any passage of air is sealed with glue, or the tightness of the supply tube is violated.

With such a gap, fuel consumption increases, the level of CO in the exhaust increases sharply up to 3%. It is very easy to observe the operation of the sensor on the scanner. The line INTAKE MANIFOLD shows the vacuum in the intake manifold, which is measured by the MAP sensor. When the wiring is broken, the ECU registers error 31. At the same time, the opening time of the injectors sharply increases to 3.5-5ms. and stop the engine.

Knock sensor

The sensor is installed to register detonation knocks (explosions) and indirectly serves as a "corrector" of the ignition timing. The recording element of the sensor is a piezoelectric plate. In the event of a sensor malfunction, or a break in the wiring, at over 3.5-4 tons of revs, the ECU fixes error 52. Sluggishness is observed during acceleration. You can check the performance with an oscilloscope, or by measuring the resistance between the sensor output and the housing (if there is resistance, the sensor needs to be replaced).

crankshaft sensor
On 7A series engines, a crankshaft sensor is installed. A conventional inductive sensor is similar to the ABC sensor and is practically trouble-free in operation. But there are also confusions. With an interturn circuit inside the winding, the generation of pulses at a certain speed is disrupted. This manifests itself as a limitation of engine speed in the range of 3.5-4 tons of revolutions. A kind of cut-off, only on low revs. It is quite difficult to detect an interturn circuit. The oscilloscope does not show a decrease in the amplitude of the pulses or a change in frequency (during acceleration), and it is rather difficult for a tester to notice changes in Ohm's shares. If you experience symptoms of speed limit at 3-4 thousand, simply replace the sensor with a known good one. In addition, a lot of trouble causes damage to the master crown, which is damaged by negligent mechanics, performing work to replace front oil seal crankshaft or timing belt. Having broken the teeth of the crown, and restored them by welding, they achieve only a visible absence of damage. At the same time, the crankshaft position sensor ceases to adequately read information, the ignition timing begins to change randomly, which leads to a loss of power, precarious work engine and increased fuel consumption

Injectors (nozzles)

During many years of operation, the nozzles and needles of the injectors are covered with tar and gasoline dust. All this naturally interferes with the correct spray and reduces the performance of the nozzle. With severe pollution, a noticeable shaking of the engine is observed, fuel consumption increases. It is realistic to determine clogging by conducting a gas analysis; according to the readings of oxygen in the exhaust, one can judge the correctness of filling. A reading above one percent will indicate the need to flush the injectors (when correct installation timing and normal fuel pressure). Or by installing the injectors on the stand, and checking the performance in the tests. Nozzles are easily cleaned by Lavr, Vince, both on CIP machines and in ultrasound.

Idle valve, IACV

The valve is responsible for engine speed in all modes (warm-up, idling, load). During operation, the valve petal becomes dirty and the stem is wedged. Turnovers hang on warming up or on X.X. (due to the wedge). Tests for changes in speed in scanners during diagnostics for this motor are not provided. The performance of the valve can be assessed by changing the readings of the temperature sensor. Enter the engine in the "cold" mode. Or, having removed the winding from the valve, twist the valve magnet with your hands. Jamming and wedge will be felt immediately. If it is impossible to easily dismantle the valve winding (for example, on the GE series), you can check its operability by connecting to one of the control outputs and measuring the duty cycle of the pulses while simultaneously controlling the RPM. and changing the load on the engine. On a fully warmed-up engine, the duty cycle is approximately 40%, by changing the load (including electrical consumers), an adequate increase in speed in response to a change in duty cycle can be estimated. When the valve is mechanically jammed, a smooth increase in the duty cycle occurs, which does not entail a change in the speed of H.X. You can restore work by cleaning soot and dirt with a carburetor cleaner with the winding removed.

Further adjustment of the valve is to set the speed X.X. On a fully warmed up engine, by rotating the winding on the mounting bolts, tabular revolutions are achieved for of this type car (according to the tag on the hood). Having previously installed the jumper E1-TE1 in the diagnostic block. On the “younger” 4A, 7A engines, the valve has been changed. Instead of the usual two windings, a microcircuit was installed in the body of the valve winding. We changed the valve power supply and the color of the winding plastic (black). It is already pointless to measure the resistance of the windings at the terminals. The valve is supplied with power and a control signal of a rectangular shape with a variable duty cycle.

To make it impossible to remove the winding, they installed non-standard fasteners. But the wedge problem remained. Now, if you clean it with an ordinary cleaner, the grease is washed out of the bearings (the further result is predictable, the same wedge, but already because of the bearing). It is necessary to completely dismantle the valve from the throttle body and then carefully flush the stem with the petal.

Ignition system. Candles.

A very large percentage of cars come to the service with problems in the ignition system. When operating on low-quality gasoline, spark plugs are the first to suffer. They are covered with a red coating (ferrosis). There will be no high-quality sparking with such candles. The engine will work intermittently, with gaps, fuel consumption increases, the level of CO in the exhaust rises. Sandblasting is not able to clean such candles. Only chemistry (silit for a couple of hours) or replacement will help. Another problem is the increase in clearance (simple wear). Drying of the rubber lugs of high-voltage wires, water that got in when washing the motor, which all provoke the formation of a conductive path on the rubber lugs.

Because of them, sparking will not be inside the cylinder, but outside it.
With smooth throttling, the engine runs stably, and with a sharp one, it “crushes”.

In this situation, it is necessary to replace both the candles and the wires at the same time. But sometimes (in the field), if replacement is impossible, you can solve the problem with an ordinary knife and a piece of emery stone (fine fraction). With a knife we ​​cut off the conductive path in the wire, and with a stone we remove the strip from the ceramics of the candle. It should be noted that it is impossible to remove the rubber band from the wire, this will lead to the complete inoperability of the cylinder.

Another problem is related to the incorrect procedure for replacing candles. The wires are pulled out of the wells with force, tearing off the metal tip of the rein.

With such a wire, misfires and floating revolutions are observed. When diagnosing the ignition system, you should always check the performance of the ignition coil on the high-voltage arrester. The most simple check- With the engine running, look at the spark on the arrester.

If the spark disappears or becomes filamentous, this indicates an interturn circuit in the coil or a problem in high voltage wires. A wire break is checked with a resistance tester. Small wire 2-3k, then to increase the long 10-12k.

The closed coil resistance can also be checked with a tester. The resistance of the secondary winding of the broken coil will be less than 12 kΩ.
The next generation coils do not suffer from such ailments (4A.7A), their failure is minimal. Proper cooling and wire thickness eliminated this problem.
Another problem is the current oil seal in the distributor. Oil, falling on the sensors, corrodes the insulation. And when exposed high voltage the slider is oxidized (covered with a green coating). The coal turns sour. All this leads to disruption of sparking. In motion, chaotic shootings are observed (during intake manifold, into the muffler) and crushing.

« Subtle malfunctions
On modern engines 4A, 7A, the Japanese changed the firmware of the control unit (apparently for faster engine warm-up). The change is that the engine reaches idle speed only at 85 degrees. The design of the engine cooling system was also changed. Now a small cooling circle intensively passes through the head of the block (not through the pipe behind the engine, as it was before). Of course, the cooling of the head has become more efficient, and the engine as a whole has become more efficient. But in winter, with such cooling during movement, the temperature of the engine reaches a temperature of 75-80 degrees. And as a result, constant warm-up revolutions (1100-1300), increased fuel consumption and nervousness of the owners. You can deal with this problem either by insulating the engine more strongly, or by changing the resistance of the temperature sensor (by deceiving the computer).
Oil
Owners pour oil into the engine indiscriminately, without thinking about the consequences. Few understand that different types oils are not compatible and, when mixed, form an insoluble porridge (coke), which leads to complete destruction of the engine.

All this plasticine cannot be washed off with chemistry, it is cleaned only mechanically. It should be understood that if it is not known what type of old oil, then flushing should be used before changing. And more advice to the owners. Pay attention to the color of the oil dipstick handle. He is yellow. If the color of the oil in your engine is darker than the color of the pen, it's time to change instead of waiting for the virtual mileage recommended by the engine oil manufacturer.

Air filter
The most inexpensive and easily accessible element - air filter. Owners very often forget about replacing it, without thinking about the likely increase in fuel consumption. Often, due to a clogged filter, the combustion chamber is very heavily polluted with burnt oil deposits, valves and candles are heavily contaminated. When diagnosing, it can be erroneously assumed that the wear of the valve stem seals is to blame, but the root cause is a clogged air filter, which increases the vacuum in the intake manifold when contaminated. Of course, in this case, the caps will also have to be changed.

Fuel filter also deserves attention. If it is not replaced in time (15-20 thousand mileage), the pump starts to work with overload, the pressure drops, and as a result, it becomes necessary to replace the pump. Plastic parts pump impeller and check valve wear prematurely.

The pressure drops. It should be noted that the operation of the motor is possible at a pressure of up to 1.5 kg (with a standard 2.4-2.7 kg). At reduced pressure, there are constant shots into the intake manifold, the start is problematic (after). The draft is noticeably reduced. It is correct to check the pressure with a pressure gauge. (access to the filter is not difficult). In the field, you can use the "return filling test". If, when the engine is running, less than one liter flows out of the gasoline return hose in 30 seconds, it can be judged that the pressure is low. You can use an ammeter to indirectly determine the performance of the pump. If the current consumed by the pump is less than 4 amperes, then the pressure is squandered. You can measure the current on the diagnostic block

When using a modern tool, the process of replacing the filter takes no more than half an hour. Previously, this took a lot of time. Mechanics always hoped in case they were lucky and the bottom fitting did not rust. But often that is what happened. I had to rack my brains for a long time with which gas wrench to hook the rolled-up nut of the lower fitting. And sometimes the process of replacing the filter turned into a “movie show” with the removal of the tube leading to the filter.

Today, no one is afraid to make this change.

Control block
Before 1998 Year of release, control units did not have enough serious problems during operation.

The blocks had to be repaired only because of the “hard polarity reversal”. It is important to note that all conclusions of the control unit are signed. It is easy to find on the board the necessary sensor output for checking, or continuity of the wire. The parts are reliable and stable in operation at low temperatures.
In conclusion, I would like to dwell a little on gas distribution. Many “hands on” owners perform the belt replacement procedure on their own (although this is not correct, they cannot properly tighten the crankshaft pulley). Mechanics make a quality replacement within two hours (maximum). If the belt breaks, the valves do not meet the piston and there is no fatal destruction of the engine. Everything is calculated to the smallest detail.

We tried to talk about the most common problems on the engines of this series. The engine is very simple and reliable, and subject to very tough operation on “water-iron gasolines” and dusty roads of our great and mighty Motherland and the “maybe” mentality of the owners. Having endured all the bullying, to this day he continues to delight with his reliable and stable job, having won the status of the best Japanese engine.

All the best with your repairs.

"Reliable Japanese engines". Notes Automotive Diagnostics

4 (80%) 4 votes[s]

Toyota has produced many interesting models of motors. The 4A FE engine and other members of the 4A family occupy a worthy place in the Toyota powertrain lineup.

Engine history

In Russia and the world, Japanese cars from the Toyota concern are well-deservedly popular due to their reliability, excellent technical characteristics and relative affordability. A significant role in this recognition was played by Japanese engines - the heart of the concern's cars. During several years whole line The production of the Japanese automaker was equipped with a 4A FE engine, the technical characteristics of which look good to this day.

Appearance:

Its production began in 1987 and continued for more than 10 years - until 1998. The number 4 in the title stands for serial number engine in the "A"-series of Toyota power units. The series itself appeared even earlier, in 1977, when the company's engineers faced the challenge of creating an economical engine with acceptable technical performance. The development was intended for a B-class car (subcompact according to the American classification) Toyota Tercel.

The result of engineering research is four-cylinder engines power from 85 to 165 Horse power and volume from 1.4 to 1.8 liters. The units were equipped with a DOHC gas distribution mechanism, a cast-iron body and aluminum heads. Their heir was the 4th generation, considered in this article.

Interesting: The A-series is still produced at a joint venture between Tianjin FAW Xiali and Toyota: 8A-FE and 5A-FE engines are produced there.

Generation history:

• 1A - years of production 1978-80;
• 2A - from 1979 to 1989;
• 3A - from 1979 to 1989;
• 4A - from 1980 to 1998.

Specifications 4A-FE

Let's take a closer look at the engine markings:

• number 4 - indicates the number in the series, as mentioned above;
• A - engine series index, indicating that it was developed and began to be produced before 1990;
• F - speaks of technical details: four-cylinder, 16-valve unforced engine driven by one camshaft;
• E - indicates the presence of a multipoint fuel injection system.

In 1990, the power units in the series were upgraded to allow operation on low-octane gasolines. To this end, a special feed system for leaning the mixture - LeadBurn - was introduced into the design.

System illustration:

Let us now consider what characteristics the 4A FE engine has. Basic engine data:

Parameter	Meaning
Volume	1.6 l.
Developed power	110 HP
Engine weight	154 kg.
Engine compression ratio	9.5-10
Number of cylinders	4
Location	inline
Fuel supply	Injector
Ignition	Tramblernoe
Valves per cylinder	4
Building BC	cast iron
Cylinder head material	Aluminium alloy
Fuel	Unleaded gasoline 92, 95
Environmental Compliance	Euro 4
Consumption	7.9 l. - on the highway, 10.5 - in urban mode.

The manufacturer claims an engine resource of 300 thousand km, in fact, the owners of cars with it report 350 thousand, without major repairs.

Device Features

Design features of 4A FE:

• in-line cylinders, bored directly in the cylinder block itself without the use of liners;
• gas distribution - DOHC, with two overhead camshafts, control occurs through 16 valves;
• one camshaft is driven by a belt, the torque on the second comes from the first through a gear;
• injection phase air-fuel mixture regulated by the VVTi clutch, valve control uses a design without hydraulic compensators;
• ignition is distributed from one coil by a distributor (but there is a late modification of the LB, where there were two coils - one for a pair of cylinders);
• the model with the LB index, designed to work with low-octane fuel, has a power reduced to 105 forces and a reduced torque.

Interesting: if the timing belt breaks, the engine does not bend the valve, which adds to its reliability and attractiveness from the consumer.

Version history 4A-FE

Throughout the life cycle, the motor has gone through several stages of development:

Gen 1 (first generation) - from 1987 to 1993.

• Engine with electronic injection, power from 100 to 102 forces.

Gen 2 - rolled off assembly lines from 1993 to 1998.

• Power varied from 100 to 110 forces, the connecting rod and piston group was changed, injection was changed, the configuration of the intake manifold was changed. The cylinder head was also modified to work with the new camshafts, the valve cover received fins.

Gen 3 - produced in limited quantities from 1997 to 2001, exclusively for the Japanese market.

• This motor had a power increased to 115 “horses”, achieved by changing the geometry of the intake and exhaust manifolds.

Pros and cons of the 4A-FE engine

The main advantage of the 4A-FE is its successful design, in which, in the event of a timing belt break, the piston does not bend the valve, avoiding costly overhauls. Other benefits include:

• availability of spare parts and their availability;
• relatively low operating costs;
• good resource;
• the engine can be repaired and maintained independently, since the design is quite simple, and attachments does not interfere with access to various elements;
• VVTi clutch and crankshaft very reliable.

Interesting: when the production Toyota car Carina E started in the UK in 1994, the first 4A FE ICEs were equipped with a control unit from Bosh, which had the ability to flexibly configure. This became a lure for tuners, as the engine could be re-flashed to get more power from it while lowering emissions.

The main drawback is considered to be the LeadBurn system mentioned above. Despite the obvious efficiency (which led to the widespread use of LB in the Japanese car market), it is extremely sensitive to the quality of gasoline and in Russian conditions shows a serious power drawdown at medium speeds. The condition of other components is also important - armored wires, candles, the quality of engine oil is critical.

Among other shortcomings, we note the increased wear of the camshaft beds and the “non-floating” fit of the piston pin. This may lead to the need for a major overhaul, but this is relatively easy to do on your own.

Oil 4A FE

Permissible viscosity indicators:

• 5W-30;
• 10W-30;
• 15W-40;
• 20W-50.

Oil should be selected according to the season and air temperature.

Where was 4A FE installed?

The motor was equipped exclusively with Toyota cars:

• Carina - modifications of the 5th generation of 1988-1992 (sedan in the back of T170, before and after restyling), 6th generation of 1992-1996 in the back of T190;
• Celica - 5th generation coupe in 1989-1993 (T180 body);
• Corolla for European and US markets in various configurations from 1987 to 1997, for Japan - from 1989 to 2001;
• Corolla Ceres generation 1 - from 1992 to 1999;
• Corolla FX - generation 3 hatchback;
• Corolla Spacio - 1st generation minivan in the 110th body from 1997 to 2001;
• Corolla Levin - from 1991 to 2000, in E100 bodies;
• Corona - generations 9, 10 from 1987 to 1996, T190 and T170 bodies;
• Sprinter Trueno - from 1991 to 2000;
• Sprinter Marino - from 1992 to 1997;
• Sprinter - from 1989 to 2000, in different bodies;
• Premio sedan - from 1996 to 2001, T210 body;
• Caldina;
• Avensis;

Service

Rules for performing service procedures:

• replacement ICE oils- every 10 thousand km .;
• fuel filter replacement - every 40 thousand;
• air - after 20 thousand;
• candles must be replaced after 30 thousand, and need an annual check;
• valve adjustment, crankcase ventilation - after 30 thousand;
• replacement of antifreeze - 50 thousand;
• replacement of the exhaust manifold - after 100 thousand, if it burned out.

Faults

Typical problems:

• Knock from the engine.

Probably worn piston pins or valve adjustment required.

• The engine "eats" oil.

Oil scraper rings and caps are worn out, replacement is needed.

• The engine fires up and immediately shuts off.

There is a fuel system problem. You should check the distributor, injectors, fuel pump, replace the filter.

• Floating turnovers.

The idle air control and throttle should be checked, cleaned and replaced, if necessary, injectors and spark plugs,

• The motor vibrates.

The likely cause is clogged injectors or dirty spark plugs, should be checked and replaced if necessary.

Other engines in the series

4A

The basic model that replaced the 3A series. The engines created on its basis were equipped with SOHC- and DOHC-mechanisms, up to 20 valves, and the “plug” of output power was from 70 to 168 forces on a “charged” turbocharged GZE.

4A-GE

This is a 1.6-liter engine, structurally similar to the FE. The performance of the 4A GE engine is also largely identical. But there are also differences:

• GE has a larger angle between intake and exhaust valves - 50 degrees, unlike 22.3 for FE;
• 4A GE engine camshafts are rotated by a single timing belt.

Speaking about the technical characteristics of the 4A GE engine, one cannot mention the power: it is somewhat more powerful than the FE and develops up to 128 hp with equal volumes.

Interesting: a 20-valve 4A-GE was also produced, with an updated cylinder head and 5 valves per cylinder. He developed power up to 160 forces.

4A-FHE

This is an analogue of FE with a modified intake, camshafts and a number of additional settings. They gave the engine more performance.

This unit is a modification of the sixteen-valve GE, equipped with a mechanical air pressurization system. Produced by 4A-GZE in 1986-1995. The cylinder block and cylinder head have not changed, an air blower driven by a crankshaft has been added to the design. The first samples gave out a pressure of 0.6 bar, and the engine developed power up to 145 forces.

In addition to supercharging, the engineers reduced the compression ratio and introduced forged convex pistons into the design.

In 1990, the 4A GZE engine was updated and began to develop power up to 168-170 forces. The compression ratio has increased, the geometry of the intake manifold has changed. The supercharger gave out a pressure of 0.7 bar, and the MAP D-Jetronic DMRV was included in the engine design.

GZE is popular with tuners as it allows compressor and other modifications to be installed without major engine conversions.

4A-F

He was the carbureted predecessor of the FE and developed up to 95 forces.

4A GEU

The 4A-GEU engine, a subspecies of GE, developed power up to 130 hp. Motors with this marking were developed before 1988.

4A-ELU

An injector was introduced into this engine, which made it possible to increase power from the original 70 for 4A to 78 forces in the export version, and up to 100 in the Japanese version. The engine was also equipped with a catalytic converter.

Svyatoslav, Kyiv ( [email protected])

The phenomenon and repair of "diesel" noise on old (mileage 250-300 thousand km) 4A-FE engines.

"Diesel" noise occurs most often in throttle mode or engine braking mode. It is clearly audible from the passenger compartment at a speed of 1500-2500 rpm, as well as at open bonnet when releasing gas. Initially, it may seem that this noise, in frequency and in sound, resembles the sound of unregulated valve clearances, or a dangling camshaft. Because of this, those who want to eliminate it often start repairs from the cylinder head (adjusting valve clearances, lowering the yokes, checking whether the gear on the driven camshaft is cocked). Another suggested repair option is an oil change.

I tried all these options, but the noise remained unchanged, as a result of which I decided to replace the piston. Even when changing the oil at 290000, I filled in the Hado 10W40 semi-synthetic oil. And he managed to push 2 repair tubes, but the miracle did not happen. The last one left possible causes- backlash in a pair of finger-piston.

The mileage of my car (Toyota Carina E XL station wagon, 95 onwards; English assembly) was 290,200 km at the time of repair (according to the odometer), moreover, I can assume that on a station wagon with air conditioning, the 1.6 liter engine was somewhat overloaded in terms of compared to a conventional sedan or hatchback. That is, the time has come!

To replace the piston, you need the following:

- Faith in the best and hope for success!!!

- Tools and fixtures:

1. Socket wrench (head) for 10 (for a square of 1/2 and 1/4 inches), 12, 14, 15, 17.
2. Socket wrench (head) (sprocket for 12 rays) for 10 and 14 (for a 1/2 inch square (necessarily no smaller square!) And from high-quality steel !!!). (Required for cylinder head bolts and connecting rod bearing nuts).
3. A socket wrench (ratchet) for 1/2 and 1/4 inches.
4. Torque wrench (up to 35 N*m) (for tightening critical connections).
5. Socket wrench extension (100-150 mm)
6. Wrench for 10 (for unscrewing hard-to-reach fasteners).
7. Adjustable wrench for turning the camshafts.
8. Pliers (remove spring clamps from hoses)
9. Small metalwork vise (jaw size 50x15). (I clamped the head in them by 10 and unscrewed the long stud screws securing the valve cover, and also with their help pressed out and pressed the fingers into the pistons (see photo with a press)).
10. Press up to 3 tons (for repressing fingers and clamping the head by 10 in a vice)
11. To remove the pallet, several flat screwdrivers or knives.
12. Phillips screwdriver with a hex tip (for unscrewing the bolts of the RV yokes near candle wells).
13. Scraper plate (for cleaning the surfaces of the cylinder head, BC and pan from the remnants of sealant and gaskets).
14. Measuring tool: micrometer 70-90 mm (for measuring the diameter of pistons), bore gauge set to 81 mm (for measuring the geometry of cylinders), vernier caliper (for determining the position of the finger in the piston during pressing), a set of feelers (for controlling valve clearance and gaps in the locks of the rings with the pistons removed). You can also take a micrometer and a 20 mm bore gauge (for measuring the diameter and wear of the fingers).
15. Digital camera - for reporting and additional information when assembling! ;about))
16. A book with the dimensions of the CPG and the moments and methods for disassembling and assembling the engine.
17. Hat (so that the oil does not drip onto the hair when the pan is removed). Even if the pan has been removed for a long time, then a drop of oil that was going to drip all night will drip exactly when you are under the engine! Repeatedly checked by a bald spot !!!

- Materials:

1. Carburetor cleaner (large spray) - 1 pc.
2. Silicone sealant (oil-resistant) - 1 tube.
3. VD-40 (or other flavored kerosene for loosening the exhaust pipe bolts).
4. Litol-24 (for tightening the ski mounting bolts)
5. Cotton rags in unlimited quantities.
6. Several cardboard boxes for folding fasteners and camshaft yokes (PB).
7. Tanks for draining antifreeze and oil (5 liters each).
8. Tray (with dimensions 500x400) (substitute under the engine when removing the cylinder head).
9. Engine oil (according to the engine manual) in the required quantity.
10. Antifreeze in the required quantity.

- Parts:

1. A set of pistons (usually offer standard size 80.93 mm), but just in case (not knowing the past of the car) I also took (with the condition of return) a repair size larger by 0.5 mm. - $75 (one set).
2. A set of rings (I also took the original in 2 sizes) - $ 65 (one set).
3. A set of engine gaskets (but you could get by with one gasket under the cylinder head) - $ 55.
4. Gasket an exhaust manifold/ downpipe - $3.

Before disassembling the engine, it is very useful to wash the entire engine compartment at the sink - there is no need for extra dirt!

I decided to disassemble to a minimum, because I was very limited in time. Judging by the set of engine gaskets, it was for a regular, not a lean 4A-FE engine. Therefore, I decided not to remove the intake manifold from the cylinder head (so as not to damage the gasket). And if so, then the exhaust manifold could be left on the cylinder head, undocking it from the exhaust pipe.

I will briefly describe the disassembly sequence:

At this point, in all instructions, the negative terminal of the battery is removed, but I deliberately decided not to remove it so as not to reset the computer's memory (for the purity of the experiment) ... and to listen to the radio during the repair; o)
1. Plentifully filled with VD-40 rusty bolts of the exhaust pipe.
2. I drained the oil and antifreeze by unscrewing the bottom plugs and caps on the filler necks.
3. I undocked the hoses of the vacuum systems, wires of temperature sensors, fan, throttle position, wires of the cold start system, lambda probe, high-voltage, spark plug wires, wires of HBO injectors and gas and gasoline supply hoses. In general, everything that fits the intake and exhaust manifold.

2. Removed the first yoke of the inlet RV and screwed in a temporary bolt through the spring-loaded gear.
3. Consistently loosened the bolts of the rest of the RV yokes (to unscrew the bolts - studs on which the valve cover is attached, I had to use a 10 head clamped in a vise (using a press)). The bolts located near the candle wells were unscrewed with a small 10 head with a Phillips screwdriver inserted into it (with a hexagonal sting and a spanner wrench worn on this hexagon).
4. Removed the inlet RV and checked whether the head fits 10 (asterisk) to the cylinder head bolts. Luckily, it fit perfectly. In addition to the sprocket itself, the outer diameter of the head is also important. It should not be more than 22.5 mm, otherwise it will not fit!
5. He removed the exhaust RV, first unscrewing the timing belt gear bolt and removing it (head by 14), then, sequentially loosening first the outer bolts of the yokes, then the central ones, removed the RV itself.
6. Removed the distributor by unscrewing the bolts of the distributor yoke and adjusting (head 12). Before removing the distributor, it is advisable to mark its position relative to the cylinder head.
7. Removed the bolts of the power steering bracket (head 12),
8. Timing belt cover (4 M6 bolts).
9. He removed the oil dipstick tube (M6 bolt) and took it out, also unscrewed the cooling pump pipe (head 12) (the oil dipstick tube is attached just to this flange).

3. Since access to the pallet was limited due to an incomprehensible aluminum trough connecting the gearbox to the cylinder block, I decided to remove it. I unscrewed 4 bolts, but the trough could not be removed because of the ski.

4. I thought about unscrewing the ski under the engine, but I could not unscrew the 2 front ski nuts. I think that before me this car was broken and instead of the studs with nuts there were bolts with M10 self-locking nuts. When trying to unscrew, the bolts turned, and I decided to leave them in place, unscrewing only back skiing. As a result, I unscrewed the main bolt of the front engine mount and 3 rear ski bolts.
5. As soon as I unscrewed the 3rd rear bolt of the ski, it bent back, and the aluminum trough fell out with a twist ... in my face. It hurt... :o/.
6. Next, I unscrewed the M6 ​​bolts and nuts securing the engine pan. And he tried to pull it off - and the pipes! I had to take all possible flat screwdrivers, knives, probes to tear off the pallet. As a result, having unbent the front sides of the pallet, I removed it.

Also I did not notice any connector Brown color system unknown to me, located somewhere above the starter, but it successfully undocked itself when removing the cylinder head.

For the rest, cylinder head removal passed successfully. I pulled it out myself. The weight in it is no more than 25 kg, but you have to be very careful not to demolish the protruding ones - the fan sensor and the lambda probe. It is advisable to number the adjusting washers (with an ordinary marker, after wiping them with a rag with a carb cleaner) - this is in case the washers fall out. He put the removed cylinder head on a clean cardboard - away from sand and dust.

Piston:

The piston was removed and installed alternately. To unscrew the connecting rod nuts, a 14-star head is required. The unscrewed connecting rod with the piston moves up with your fingers until it falls out of the cylinder block. In this case, it is very important not to confuse the drop-down connecting rod bearings !!!

I examined the dismantled assembly and measured it as much as possible. Piston changed before me. Moreover, their diameter in the control zone (25 mm from the top) was exactly the same as on the new pistons. The radial play in the piston-finger connection was not felt by the hand, but this is due to the oil. Axial movement along the finger is free. Judging by the soot on the upper part (up to the rings), some pistons were displaced along the axes of the fingers and rubbed against the cylinders by the surface (perpendicular to the axis of the fingers). Having measured the position of the fingers with a rod relative to the cylindrical part of the piston, he determined that some fingers were displaced along the axis up to 1 mm.

Further, when pressing new fingers, I controlled the position of the fingers in the piston (I chose the axial clearance in one direction and measured the distance from the end of the finger to the piston wall, then in the other direction). (I had to drive my fingers back and forth, but in the end I achieved an error of 0.5 mm). For this reason, I believe that landing a cold finger into a hot crank is only possible under ideal conditions, with a controlled finger stop. In my conditions it was impossible and I did not bother with landing "hot". Pressed, lubricated engine oil hole in the piston and connecting rod. Fortunately, on the fingers, the butt was filled with a smooth radius and did not shake either the connecting rod or the piston.

The old pins had noticeable wear in the piston boss areas (0.03 mm in relation to the central part of the pin). It was not possible to accurately measure the output on the piston bosses, but there was no particular ellipse there. All rings were movable in the piston grooves, and the oil channels (holes in the oil scraper ring area) were free of carbon deposits and dirt.

Before pressing in new pistons, I measured the geometry of the central and upper parts of the cylinders, as well as the new pistons. The goal is to fit larger pistons into more worn out cylinders. But the new pistons were almost identical in diameter. By weight, I did not control them.

One more important point when pressing - the correct position of the connecting rod relative to the piston. There is an influx on the connecting rod (above the crankshaft liner) - this is a special marker indicating the location of the connecting rod to the front of the crankshaft (alternator pulley), (there is the same influx on the lower beds of the connecting rod liners). On the piston - at the top - two deep cores - also to the front of the crankshaft.

I also checked the gaps in the locks of the rings. To do this, the compression ring (first old, then new) is inserted into the cylinder and lowered by the piston to a depth of 87 mm. The gap in the ring is measured with a feeler gauge. On the old ones there was a gap of 0.3 mm, on the new rings 0.25 mm, which indicates that I changed the rings in vain! The allowable gap, let me remind you, is 1.05 mm for ring No. 1. The following should be noted here: If I had guessed to mark the positions of the locks of the old rings relative to the pistons (when pulling out the old pistons), then the old rings could be safely put on the new pistons in the same position. Thus, it would be possible to save $65. And engine break-in time!

Next, piston rings must be installed on the pistons. Installed without adaptation - with fingers. First, the separator oil scraper ring, then the lower scraper of the oil scraper ring, then the upper one. Then the 2nd and 1st compression rings. The location of the locks of the rings - necessarily according to the book !!!

With the pallet removed, it is still necessary to check the axial play of the crankshaft (I did not do this), it seemed visually that the play is very small ... (and permissible up to 0.3 mm). When removing - installing connecting rod assemblies, the crankshaft rotates manually by the generator pulley.

Assembly:

Before installing pistons with connecting rods, cylinders, piston pins and rings, connecting rod bearings, lubricate with fresh engine oil. When installing the lower beds of the connecting rods, it is necessary to check the position of the liners. They must stand in place (without displacement, otherwise jamming is possible). After installing all the connecting rods (tightening with a torque of 29 Nm, in several approaches), it is necessary to check the ease of rotation of the crankshaft. It should rotate by hand on the alternator pulley. Otherwise, it is necessary to look for and eliminate the skew in the liners.

Pallet and ski installation:

Cleaned of old sealant, the sump flange, like the surface on the cylinder block, is carefully degreased with a carb cleaner. Then a layer of sealant is applied to the pallet (see instructions) and the pallet is set aside for several minutes. Meanwhile, the oil receiver is installed. And behind it is a tray. First, 2 nuts are baited in the middle - then everything else and tightened by hand. Later (after 15-20 minutes) - with a key (head at 10).

You can immediately put the hose from the oil cooler on the pallet and install the ski and the bolt of the front engine mount (it is advisable to lubricate the bolts with Litol - to slow down the rusting of the threaded connection).

Cylinder head installation:

Before installing the cylinder head, it is necessary to carefully clean the planes of the cylinder head and BC with a scraper plate, as well as the mounting flange of the pump pipe (near the pump from the back of the cylinder head (the one where oil dipstick)). It is advisable to remove oil and antifreeze puddles from the threaded holes so as not to split when tightening the BC with bolts.

Put a new gasket under the cylinder head (I smeared it a little with silicone in areas close to the edges - according to the old memory of repeated repairs of the Moscow 412 engine). I smeared the pump nozzle with silicone (the one with the oil dipstick). Next, the cylinder head can be set! Here it is necessary to note one feature! All cylinder head bolts on the intake manifold mounting side are shorter than on the exhaust side !!! I tighten the installed head with bolts by hand (using a 10 sprocket head with an extension). Then I screw on the pump nozzle. When all the cylinder head bolts are baited, I start tightening (the sequence and method are as in the book), and then another control tightening of 80 Nm (this is just in case).

After cylinder head installations P-shafts are being installed. The contact planes of the yokes with the cylinder head are thoroughly cleaned of debris, and the threaded mounting holes are cleaned of oil. It is very important to put the yokes in their places (for this they are marked at the factory).

I determined the position of the crankshaft by the "0" mark on the timing belt cover and the notch on the alternator pulley. The position of the outlet RV is on the pin in the flange of the belt gear. If it is at the top, then the PB is in the TDC position of the 1st cylinder. Next, I put the RV oil seal in the place cleaned by the carb cleaner. I put the belt gear together with the belt and tightened it with a fixing bolt (14 head). Unfortunately, the timing belt could not be put in the old place (previously marked with a marker), but it was desirable to do so. Next, I installed the distributor, after removing the old sealant and oil with a carb cleaner, and applying a new sealant. The position of the distributor was set according to a pre-applied mark. By the way, as for the distributor, the photo shows burnt electrodes. This may be the cause of uneven operation, tripling, "weakness" of the engine, and the result is increased fuel consumption and a desire to change everything in the world (candles, explosive wires, lambda probe, car, etc.). It is eliminated in an elementary way - gently scraped off with a screwdriver. Similarly - on the opposite contact of the slider. I recommend cleaning every 20-30 t.km.

Next, the inlet RV is installed, be sure to align the necessary (!) Marks on the gears of the shafts. First, the central yokes of the inlet RV are installed, then, having removed the temporary bolt from the gear, the first yoke is placed. All fastening bolts are tightened to the required torque in the appropriate sequence (according to the book). Next, a plastic timing belt cover is installed (4 M6 bolts) and only then, carefully wiping the valve cover and cylinder head contact area with a rag with a carb cleaner and applying a new sealant - the valve cover itself. Here, in fact, are all the tricks. It remains to hang all the tubes, wires, tighten the power steering and generator belts, fill in antifreeze (before filling, I recommend wiping the neck of the radiator, creating a vacuum on it with your mouth (so to check the tightness)); fill with oil (do not forget to tighten drain plugs!). Install an aluminum trough, a ski (lubricating the bolts with salidol) and a front pipe with gaskets.

The launch was not instant - it was necessary to pump empty fuel tanks. The garage was filled with thick oily smoke - this is from piston lubrication. Further - the smoke becomes more burnt in smell - this is oil and dirt burning out from the exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe ... Further (if everything worked out) - we enjoy the absence of "diesel" noise !!! I think it will be useful when driving to observe a gentle mode - for engine break-in (at least 1000 km).

Engine Toyota 4A-FE (4A-GE, 4A-GZE) 1.6 l.

Toyota 4A engine specifications

Production	Kamigo Plant Shimoyama Plant Deeside Engine Plant North Plant Tianjin FAW Toyota Engine's Plant No. one
Engine brand	Toyota 4A
Release years	1982-2002
Block material	cast iron
Supply system	carburetor/injector
Type of	in-line
Number of cylinders	4
Valves per cylinder	4/2/5
Piston stroke, mm	77
Cylinder diameter, mm	81
Compression ratio	8 8.9 9 9.3 9.4 9.5 10.3 10.5 11 (see description)
Engine volume, cc	1587
Engine power, hp / rpm	78/5600 84/5600 90/4800 95/6000 100/5600 105/6000 110/6000 112/6600 115/5800 125/7200 128/7200 145/6400 160/7400 165/7600 170/6400 (see description)
Torque, Nm/rpm	117/2800 130/3600 130/3600 135/3600 136/3600 142/3200 142/4800 131/4800 145/4800 149/4800 149/4800 190/4400 162/5200 162/5600 206/4400 (see description)
Fuel	92-95
Environmental regulations	-
Engine weight, kg	154
Fuel consumption, l/100 km (for Celica GT) - town - track - mixed.	10.5 7.9 9.0
Oil consumption, g/1000 km	up to 1000
Engine oil	5W-30 10W-30 15W-40 20W-50
How much oil is in the engine	3.0-4A-FE 3.0 - 4A-GE (Corolla, Corolla Sprinter, Marin0, Ceres, Trueno, Levin) 3.2-4A-L/LC/F 3.3 - 4A-FE (Carina before 1994, Carina E) 3.7 - 4A-GE/GEL
Oil change is carried out, km	10000 (preferably 5000)
Operating temperature of the engine, hail.	-
Engine resource, thousand km - according to the plant - on practice	300 300+
tuning - potential - no loss of resource	300+ n.a.
The engine was installed	Toyota MR2 Toyota Corolla Ceres Toyota Corolla Levin Toyota Corolla Spacio Toyota Sprinter Toyota Sprinter Toyota Sprinter Toyota Sprinter Trueno Elfin Type 3 Clubman Chevrolet Nova GeoPrizm

Malfunctions and engine repairs 4A-FE (4A-GE, 4A-GZE)

In parallel with the well-known and popular engines of the S series, the low-volume A series was produced, and the 4A engine in various variations became one of the brightest and most popular engines of the series. Initially, it was a single-shaft carbureted low-power engine, which was nothing special.
As the 4A improved, first it received a 16 valve head, and later a 20 valve head, on evil camshafts, injection, a modified intake system, another piston, some versions were equipped with a mechanical supercharger. Consider the whole path of continuous improvements 4A.

Toyota 4A engine modifications

1. 4A-C - the first carburetor version of the engine, 8 valves, 90 hp. Designed for North America. Produced from 1983 to 1986.
2. 4A-L - analogue for the European car market, compression ratio 9.3, power 84 hp
3. 4A-LC - analogue for the Australian market, power 78 hp It was in production from 1987 to 1988.
4. 4A-E - injection version, compression ratio 9, power 78 hp Years of production: 1981-1988.
5. 4A-ELU - analogue of 4A-E with a catalyst, compression ratio 9.3, power 100 hp. Produced from 1983 to 1988.
6. 4A-F - carburetor version with 16 valve head, compression ratio 9.5, power 95 hp. A similar version was produced with a reduced working volume of up to 1.5 liters - . Years of production: 1987 - 1990.
7. 4A-FE - analogue of 4A-F, instead of a carburetor, an injection fuel supply system is used, there are several generations this engine:
7.1 4A-FE Gen 1 - the first version with electronic fuel injection, power 100-102 hp Produced from 1987 to 1993.
7.2 4A-FE Gen 2 - the second option, the camshafts, the injection system were changed, the valve cover received fins, another ShPG, another inlet. Power 100-110 hp The motor was produced from the 93rd to the 98th year.
7.3. 4A-FE Gen 3 - last generation 4A-FE, similar to Gen2 with minor adjustments on the intake and in the intake manifold. Power increased to 115 hp It was produced for the Japanese market from 1997 to 2001, and since 2000, the 4A-FE has been replaced by a new one.
8. 4A-FHE - an improved version of 4A-FE, with different camshafts, different intake and injection, and more. Compression ratio 9.5, engine power 110 hp It was produced from 1990 to 1995 and was installed on the Toyota Carina and Toyota Sprinter Carib.
9. 4A-GE - traditional Toyota version increased power, developed with the participation Yamaha and already equipped port injection MPFI fuel. The GE series, like the FE, has gone through several restylings:
9.1 4A-GE Gen 1 "Big Port" - the first version, produced from 1983 to 1987. They have a modified cylinder head on higher shafts, a T-VIS intake manifold with adjustable geometry. The compression ratio is 9.4, the power is 124 hp, for countries with stringent environmental requirements, the power is 112 hp.
9.2 4A-GE Gen 2 - second version, compression ratio increased to 10, power increased to 125 hp The release began with the 87th, ended in 1989.
9.3 4A-GE Gen 3 "Red Top" / "Small port" - another modification, the intake channels were reduced (hence the name), the connecting rod and piston group was replaced, the compression ratio increased to 10.3, the power was 128 hp. Years of production: 1989-1992.
9.4 4A-GE Gen 4 20V "Silver Top" - the fourth generation, the main innovation here is the transition to a 20-valve cylinder head (3 for intake, 2 for exhaust) with top shafts, 4-throttle intake, a phase change system has appeared valve timing at the VVTi intake, the intake manifold has been changed, the compression ratio has been increased to 10.5, the power is 160 hp. at 7400 rpm. The engine was produced from 1991 to 1995.
9.5. 4A-GE Gen 5 20V "Black Top" - latest version evil aspirated, increased throttle valves, lightened pistons, flywheel, modified inlet and outlet channels, installed even more upper shafts, the compression ratio reached 11, the power rose to 165 hp. at 7800 rpm. The motor was produced from 1995 to 1998, mainly for the Japanese market.
10. 4A-GZE - an analogue of 4A-GE 16V with a compressor, below are all generations of this engine:
10.1 4A-GZE Gen 1 - compressor 4A-GE with a pressure of 0.6 bar, supercharger SC12. Forged pistons with a compression ratio of 8 were used, an intake manifold with variable geometry. Power output 140 hp, produced from the 86th to the 90th year.
10.2 4A-GZE Gen 2 - the intake has been changed, the compression ratio has been increased to 8.9, the pressure has been increased, now it is 0.7 bar, the power has risen to 170 hp. Engines were produced from 1990 to 1995.

Malfunctions and their causes

1. Big expense fuel, in most cases, the lambda probe is the culprit and the problem is solved by replacing it. When soot appears on candles, black smoke from exhaust pipe, vibration at idle, check the absolute pressure sensor.
2. Vibrations and high fuel consumption, most likely it's time for you to wash the nozzles.
3. Problems with speed, freezing, increased speed. Check the idle valve and clean the throttle, watch the throttle position sensor and everything will return to normal.
4. The 4A engine does not start, the speed fluctuates, here the reason is in the engine temperature sensor, check.
5. Swim speed. We clean the throttle valve block, KXX, check the candles, nozzles, crankcase ventilation valve.
6. The engine stalls, see fuel filter, fuel pump, distributor.
7. high consumption oils. In principle, a serious consumption is allowed by the plant (up to 1 liter per 1000 km), but if the situation is annoying, then replacing the rings and oil seals will save you.
8. Engine knock. Usually, piston pins knock, if the mileage is high and the valves have not been adjusted, then adjust the valve clearances, this procedure carried out every 100,000 km.

In addition, crankshaft oil seals are leaking, ignition problems are not uncommon, etc. All of the above occurs not so much because of design miscalculations, but because of the huge mileage and general old age of the 4A engine, in order to avoid all these problems, you must initially, when buying, look for the most lively engine. The resource of a good 4A is at least 300,000 km.
It is not recommended to buy lean burn versions of Lean Burn, which have lower power, some capriciousness and increased cost of consumables.
It is worth noting that all of the above is also typical for motors created on the basis of 4A - and.

Tuning engine Toyota 4A-GE (4A-FE, 4A-GZE)

Chip tuning. Atmo

The engines of the 4A series were born for tuning, it was on the basis of the 4A-GE that the well-known 4A-GE TRD was created, which produces 240 hp in the atmospheric version. and spinning up to 12000 rpm! But for successful tuning, you need to take the 4A-GE as a basis, and not the FE version. Tuning 4A-FE is a dead idea from the very beginning and replacing the cylinder head with a 4A-GE will not help here. If your hands are itching to modify exactly 4A-FE, then your choice is boost, buy a turbo kit, put on a standard piston, blow up to 0.5 bar, get your ~ 140 hp. and drive until it falls apart. In order to drive happily ever after, you need to change the crankshaft, the entire ShPG to a low degree, bring the cylinder head, install large valves, injectors, a pump, in other words, only the cylinder block will remain native. And only then to put the turbine and everything related, is it rational?
That is why a good 4AGE is always taken as the basis, everything is simpler here: for the first generations of GE, they take good shafts with a phase of 264, the pushers are standard, a direct-flow exhaust is installed and we get around 150 hp. Few?
We remove the T-VIS intake manifold, take shafts with a phase of 280+, with tuning springs and pushers, give the cylinder head for revision, for the Big Port, the refinement includes grinding the channels, finishing the combustion chambers, for the Small Port it also pre-boring the intake and exhaust channels with the installation of larger valves, spider 4-2-1, set to Abit or January 7.2, this will give up to 170 hp.
Further, a forged piston for a compression ratio of 11, phase 304 shafts, a 4-throttle intake, a 4-2-1 equal-length spider and a straight-through exhaust on a 63mm pipe, the power will rise to 210 hp.
We put a dry sump, change the oil pump to another one from 1G, the maximum shafts are phase 320, the power will reach 240 hp. and will spin at 10,000 rpm.
How will we refine the compressor 4A-GZE ... We will carry out work with the cylinder head (grinding channels and combustion chambers), shafts 264 phase, exhaust 63mm, tuning and about 20 horses we will write ourselves a plus. To bring the power up to 200 forces will allow the compressor SC14 or more productive.

Turbine on 4A-GE/GZE

When turbocharging 4AGE, you immediately need to lower the compression ratio, by installing pistons from 4AGZE, we take camshafts with phase 264, a turbo kit of your choice and at 1 bar we get pressure up to 300 hp. To get even higher power, as in an evil atmosphere, you need to finish the cylinder head, set the forged crankshaft and piston to a degree of ~ 7.5, a more efficient kit and blow 1.5+ bar, getting your 400+ hp.