Power steering wanted for a long time, the choice was between electric and power steering. I was not particularly in a hurry with this issue, and quietly collected information on these units. About email. amplifiers had information that they jammed while driving, and they are not cheap. But the hydraulic booster is a reliable thing, but the price of a new one at $ 1000 was not at all impressive, and it is very difficult to find a used one. And one day I had to ride on a new field with GUR, to be honest, I expected a little different. The steering wheel on it is certainly easy to turn, but it is too cottony, you just don’t feel the car while driving.
But as time went on, it was winter, the frosts were strong, and when the frost increased at night, the oil in the gearbox apparently froze and the steering wheel simply could not be turned! And then I just had to meet my friend, he had a UAZ and he boasted that he had recently installed a power steering from a BMW 7 series, I looked at the system, in principle it was not difficult to put it in any field - VAZ 21213 2121 21214. Over the next a few days without problems I managed to find a gearbox with a pump from a bmw e34 (the reliability of steering gearboxes of which is legendary), after some bargaining, I bought a gearbox and a pump for 100 USD.
Slowly began the installation of the system on the NIVA. In order for it to fit normally, it was necessary to deploy the bipod, and weld the Nivovsky shaft onto the shaft of the BMW gearbox, then the bipod sit down without problems! Since the bipod has become much longer than with stock, they made support for it. The pump stood up without problems, only a little fuel pump tube interfered, it had to be deployed a little.
It was not easy with the choice of fluid for the power steering, as it turned out, there are two types of it: ATP (red) and Pentazine (green) manufactured by BMW, the store said that if red was filled, then red should be poured. But having climbed a little on the forums, and FAKs it turned out that there are different types of ATFs, and if you fill in the wrong type that was filled in, then the pump fails, but if you fill in Pentazine, then no questions arise! Pentazine turned out to be a rare bird in our area, in stores they often offered some kind of green burda of unknown production. Igor (Gunther-E34) helped to get pentazine, for which many thanks to him!), although the price was not cheap (17 euros per liter), but it’s better not to save on this! At first I ordered 1 liter of liquid, I thought it would be enough, but some 150 grams were not enough, and I had to order another liter.
The day came when everything stood in its place, the liquid is filled, you can start! Launched, everything works just fine! Impressions while driving are just a delight! The car seemed to have been changed, the old sluggish cornfield became light and maneuverable, the steering wheel is not cotton like Nivah! In the zero zone, the steering wheel is a little heavier and sharper (there is an adjusting screw on the gearbox that can be used to adjust the severity of the steering wheel)!

As you know, the purpose of power steering, whether it is electric or hydraulic, is to provide more comfortable steering wheel rotation. Currently, almost all models of manufactured cars are equipped with power steering or EUR, and in those cars in which the manufacturer did not provide for their presence, you can install the amplifier yourself. In this article, we will analyze how to put a hydraulic booster on a Niva and whether it makes sense.

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The principle of operation of the EUR and GUR

Before you install the amplifier in the VAZ 2121 with your own hands, let's look at the principle of operation of the systems, let's start with the power steering. When the steering wheel is in the center position, it is fixed with centering springs. In this position, the liquid circulates through all elements of the system, provided that the distributor is correctly positioned. The power steering pump in this case operates in enhanced mode, due to the need to pump fluid through the system. And it always functions, regardless of whether the steering wheel turns or not.

When the steering wheel is turned, the spool moves, as a result of which the element blocks the drain lines, liquid begins to flow into one of the cylinders. At the same time, oil acts on the piston, as well as the rod under pressure, which leads to the rotation of the wheel, as well as the housing, in a certain direction. The spool overtakes the body of the device when it stops moving, which indicates that the driver has completed the turning maneuver. In this case, the spool returns to its original position, and then the hose is opened to drain the liquid.

As for the principle of operation of the EUR, the amplifier itself is mounted on the steering shaft of the vehicle. Its constituent parts are connected to each other by means of a torsion shaft, with an installed engine speed reading controller. When the driver turns the steering wheel, the torsion shaft twists, this fixes the torque sensor. In accordance with the information received from the controller of the moment, speed and engine speed, the control module determines the compensation force, as a result of which it sends a command to the amplifier electric motor.

The feasibility of installing EUR and power steering

Does it make sense to put an electric or hydraulic booster on your car? The only, but the most important thing that such an installation can give is to provide a more comfortable driving experience. But keep in mind that installing such a system is a rather complicated task, which not everyone can handle. At the same time, its cost is quite high, and if you cannot install the node yourself, you will also have to pay a substantial amount for installation. Therefore, it is necessary to decide whether it is profitable for you to install an amplifier from an economic point of view (the author of the video is Gennady Martynyuk).

Detailed installation guide for electric power steering on the Niva

The procedure for installing the EUR with your own hands is performed as follows:

1. First you need to disconnect the battery.
2. Then the plug is removed from the steering wheel, the fixing nut is unscrewed, the steering wheel itself is dismantled. You also need to unscrew the four screws with a screw and remove the plastic cover.
3. The fixing bolts are unscrewed and the instrument panel is dismantled. Disconnect the steering column switch plug, unscrew the bolt that secures it, and then dismantle the device.
4. Then the ignition switch wiring is disconnected, the device itself is removed, to do this, unscrew the two fixing screws and turn the key to position I.
5. The next step is to dismantle the steering column, for this you need to unscrew the steering shaft screw, as well as several mounting screws and nuts. Please note that Niva uses shear-head screws, so the best option would be to make notches with a chisel and unscrew them with pliers. Next, the column itself must be lowered down, and then dismantled.
6. After that, unscrew the nuts on the mounting blocks with fuses, remove them. Also remove the relay cover located under the instrument panel.
7. The salon and the engine compartment are separated from each other by a partition, it has an elastic plug, it must be removed. The EUR wire is pulled through the hole. Ensure that the routed wire does not come into contact with moving components .
8. Under the dashboard itself, to the left of the steering wheel, there is an 8-pin connector, two gray wires are connected to it. The yellow-blue from the EUR should be connected to this connector. Then, to the red block that comes from the tidy, you need to connect the orange wires, as well as the blue-pink colors from the electric amplifier. Here, behind the instrument panel, you can find a mass bolt, a minus should be connected to it.
9. An amplifier bracket is installed under the tidy, the wiring from the ignition switch should be threaded into it.
10. Further, an intermediate shaft should be installed on the splines of the amplifier itself, remember that a mass must be connected to it in advance. The shaft itself should be securely fixed on the steering gear shaft and attach the EUR to the bracket. The shaft must not be allowed to be pinched or too tight.
11. The assembly itself is fixed to the plate with two bolts and two studs, it is desirable to install nuts under them.
12. Next, the power and information connectors are connected to the amplifier.
13. In fact, this installation procedure can be considered complete. Now you need to reinstall the ignition switch, steering column switch. To install the steering column lining, it will need to be cut, for example, with a hacksaw. The steering wheel, dashboard is put in place. Then the wiring is pulled from the EUR to the battery.
    Please note that in the existing plug in the partition between the engine compartment and the passenger compartment, it will be necessary to increase the size of the hole. Perform a hardware health check and recheck all connections.

Installation Help Photo Gallery

Features of the installation of power steering

Briefly about the features of the power steering installation on the Niva:

1. First, the central nut of the steering wheel is unscrewed, after which it is dismantled. A puller may be required to loosen the nut. The cardan joint is also dismantled with the steering wheel.
2. Then loosen the fan strap.
3. After installing the hydraulic booster, you need to fill the system - for this, the cap of the expansion tank is unscrewed, oil is poured into the system to the desired level. After that, the steering wheel should be turned to the extreme positions several times with the engine turned off, this will get rid of the air lock in the system.
4. When bleeding the system, it is recommended to jack up the front of the car or disconnect the tie rod from the bipod. Next, the engine is started, the required amount of fluid is added to the system. If you notice that after adding the oil began to foam, this indicates that air has entered the power steering hoses. Then you will need to turn off the engine and wait a while until the bubbles stop emitting.
5. The procedure is carried out in an almost identical way to installing the EUR, only there are some nuances. Before starting the process, carefully read the service book that comes with the kit (the author of the video is Andrew Humm channel).

The nuances of adjusting the position of the steering wheel

As for the adjustment, it is usually performed if the driver is not satisfied with the position of the steering wheel in height. To adjust the EUR, you need to grind the edges of the shaft to the desired size or install a gasket between the mechanism housing and the plate.

Issue price

As for the price, it depends on the type of amplifier, as well as the store where the kit is bought. The cost of a set of EUR today averages about 27-32 thousand rubles. As for the hydraulic booster, on average, the installation kit will cost the buyer a price of 31 to 40 thousand rubles. You can assemble the power steering system from different parts from different cars, for example, install a column from Opel or Nissan, and a pump from BMW or other car models. But you have to tinker, because you will need to perform more than one alteration.

The lack of power steering is somehow very out of date. Especially in the future, the installation of wheels of non-standard size. Therefore, immediately after purchasing the car, it was decided to install power steering.
I did not consider the EUR because my steering gear (hereinafter referred to as RR) was all leaking oil, and had a lot of play, in general, to be replaced.

The next day I bought a PP, power steering pump from Mitsubishi Galant (80s)

Galant pump

On the same day in the evening I came across an article on the Internet on installing such a RR in 2121, in which there is a template for cutting a hole in the engine shield for this RR (since it is slightly larger than the native one). The template, by the way, is not life-size, so I had to draw it again.

Film Template

I cut it out with a small grinder and a drill. Use discs with a thickness of 0.8 or 1 mm, although they grind faster than thick ones, it is a pleasure to cut with them, they cut very quickly.

Bought the missing items:

1. Power steering belt 21214

2. Power steering pulley on the crankshaft (included is a ratchet nut and a spacer washer

3. Plastic tank power steering gas 31105.

4. High pressure hose (fortunately, the hose came up to both the rail and the pump, although it was a little long, but I didn’t have to choose.

5. 2 liters of oil for power steering (in the system, approximately, a liter, but I spilled half of one can while experimenting with power steering).

Started by installing the pulley.
I did not use a remote washer, since with it the power steering pulley is very far away from the main pulley. I don’t know if this is how it should be, or whether the 21214 main pulley has a different shape. In general, I threw out the washer, and the nut had to be modified, or rather, I had to cut the thread in it to the end, shorten it (by the width of the washer) and grind off the chamfer that should go into the washer.

The bracket was made from a plate 5 mm thick.

It was necessary to paint with something, and the cans are almost empty. in the end it turned out like this.

Installed, connected all the hoses, poured liquid, turned the wheel. The liquid has leaked. Poured more. Started - a fountain of 50 centimeters from the tank (an unpumped system leads to this result). Filled with more fluid, pumped thoroughly the entire system. Started ... and Hurray! everything is working! True, there are still some movements in the tank, in my opinion, this should not be so, this is not the case in the UAZ.

This manual describes the installation sequence of the power steering, the requirements for its installation and filling with hydraulic fluid, for vehicles of the VAZ-21213, 21214, 2131 type and their modifications, with injection and carburetor engines.

1. General requirements

Before starting installation work, check the hydraulic booster mounting kit in accordance with the attached list.
After installation, the hydraulic system hoses must be laid freely and with little kinks (with as large bending radii as possible).
Sealing copper washers must be soft, i.e. in the annealed state, if necessary, perform additional annealing by heating.
Before starting work, place the car on a horizontal, level ground and brake with a parking brake and additional blocks under the wheels.

2. Preparing the car for the installation of the hydraulic booster - removing the car components
2.1. Opening the hood, remove the "minus" terminal from the battery (tool: wrench 10)
2.2. Remove the spare wheel and spare wheel bracket (tool; socket 13, socket 10)
2.3. Remove the windshield washer reservoir by disconnecting the tubes and wires from the washer motors
2.4. For a car with an injection engine - remove the fuel filter on the left mudguard of the car by unscrewing its fastening nuts and moving it to the side without disconnecting the fuel lines (tool: socket wrench 10)
2.5. Remove the upper and lower steering shaft covers by unscrewing the fixing screws (tool: Phillips screwdriver)
2.6. Remove the wiring harness from the ignition switch, from the hazard warning switch, from the three-lever switch, from the brake light switch
2.7. Unscrew the bolt securing the lower end of the intermediate cardan shaft of the steering wheel (tool: socket wrench 13, wrench 13)
2.8. Remove the steering shaft bracket with the steering wheel and the intermediate cardan shaft by unscrewing the two nuts and two bolts of its fastening (socket wrench 13 with extension, chisel, hammer)
2.9. Remove the intermediate drive shaft. unscrewing the bolt securing its upper end (tool: socket wrench 13. wrench 13)
2.10. Remove the vacuum brake booster rod by removing the fastening bracket (tool: flat screwdriver, pliers)
2.11. Remove the main brake cylinder from the vacuum booster by unscrewing its fastening nuts and pulling it up and to the side without disconnecting the brake pipes (tool: ring wrench 17)
2.12. Remove the vacuum brake booster by unscrewing the four nuts of its fastening (tool: socket wrench 13 with extension)
2.13. Remove the clutch drive cylinder and its expansion tank by unscrewing the two nuts securing it and moving it to the side without disconnecting the supply hose from the tank (tool: socket wrench 13 with extension, socket wrench 10 with extension)
2.14. Remove pedal bracket
2.15. Press the ball pins of the middle and left tie rods out of the holes in the steering arm.
why to unpin and unscrew the nuts for fastening the rods (tool: pliers, socket wrench
22 with extension, puller)
2.16. Remove the steering mechanism with a bipod by unscrewing the nuts and removing the bots of its fastening to the side member
(tool: socket wrench 17 with extension, ring wrench 17)
2.17. Unscrew the nut of the steering mechanism bipod, having previously unbent the lock washer, and remove the bipod from the steering mechanism shaft with a puller, fixing the mechanism body in a vice through gaskets (tool: vice, socket wrench 30 with extension, puller)
2.18. For a car with an injection engine - remove the ignition module with bracket assembly by disconnecting the high voltage wires and the wiring harness block, and unscrewing the bracket fastening nuts (tool: socket wrench 13 with extension)
2.19. For a car with an injection engine - remove the adsorber with the bracket assembly from the left mudguard by unscrewing the bracket fastening nuts (tool: socket wrench 10)
2.20. Unscrew the left upper stud M6 from the front of the cylinder block for fastening the timing cover, having previously unscrewed the nut (tool: socket wrench 10, wrench 10)
2.21. Unscrew the bolt M8x45 for fastening the cylinder head on the front left (tool; socket wrench 13 with extension)

3. Modification of the body for the installation of a hydraulic booster
3.1. Enlarge by cutting the hole in the bulkhead using the supplied full size hole outline template in FIG.1. blunt sharp edges and burrs after cutting (tool: template according to FIG. 1. electric drill. drill D9 mm., electric jigsaw, chisel, hammer, flat file)

Note. In this article, clicking on the pictures in new windows opens their full-size versions.

3.2. Make a groove in the bracket of the pedal block, marking it according to the sketch shown in FIG. 2, dull sharp edges and burrs after cutting (tool: caliper, electric circular saw, flat file)

3.3. Tint with a primer along the contour of the edge of the hole in the bulkhead and the groove on the pedal block mounting bracket (tool: brush. car primer)

4. Refinement of the engine for the installation of a hydraulic booster pump
4.1. Mark the center of the side hole on the cylinder block as shown in FIG. 3, installing the hydraulic booster pump mounting bracket on the block and fixing it with the M8x45x1.25 cylinder head mounting bolt and the M6x25 bolt supplied with the kit. After marking the center, remove the bracket. unscrewing the previously installed bolts: (tool socket wrench 13, socket wrench 17, hammer, center punch)

4.2. Make a threaded hole M8x1.25 with a depth of 12 mm in the cylinder block along the intended center, in accordance with the sketch according to FIG. 3. Remove chips (tool: electric drill, drill D6.5, tap M8x1.25, tap wrench)
4.3. For a car with an injection engine - Make a threaded hole M8x 1.25 with a depth of 12mm in the cylinder glare boss located in the center at the top left of the block, in accordance with the pattern according to FIG.4. Remove chips (tool: hammer, center punch, electric drill, drill D6.5; tap M8x1.25; tap collar)

4.4. The nut securing the engine crankshaft pulley is unscrewed, turning on the 4th gear in the gearbox and the handbrake (tool: socket wrench 38, knob)
4.5. For a vehicle with an injection engine - Modify the bracket for the ignition module. having previously unscrewed the coil block from the bracket, and then unbent and straightened its eye according to FIG. 4 (tool: socket wrench 10, bench vise, hammer)

5. Installing the bipod on the hydraulic booster
5.1. Cut off the front stop on the steering arm by 3 ... 5 mm according to the sketch in FIG. 5 (tool: circular electric saw)
5.2. Install the modified steering arm on the lower shaft of the power steering arm. by aligning the double tooth of the splined hole of the bipod with the mark in the form of a risk on the end of the shaft of the hydraulic booster bipod.

5.3. Install the lock washer and tighten the bipod mounting nut to a torque of 140 ... 160 Nm. Lock the nut by bending the tabs of the lock washer (14.16 kGm) (tool: socket head 32, torque wrench, chisel, hammer)

6. Installation of hydraulic booster with bipod assembly
6.1 Set the middle position of the power steering shaft relative to its extreme positions by rotating the shaft, while the mark on the end face of the power steering shaft must match the mark on its body.
6.2. Install the hydraulic booster on the body side member and fix it with three bolts and self-locking nuts from the kit. Tighten the nuts of the hydraulic booster mounting bolts to a torque of 35 ... 45 Nm (3.5 ... 4.5 kgf) (tool: cap wrench 17. socket head 17, torque wrench;
6.3. Seal the junction of the hydraulic booster housing and the car body using polyurethane foam or silicone.
6.4. Install the ball pins of the steering rods in the conical holes of the steering arm, tighten with castle nuts to a torque of 45 ... 55 Nm (4.5 ... 5.5 kGm), cotter (tool: socket head 22, torque wrench, pliers)
7. Installing the power steering pump and its drive
7.1. Install the pump drive pulley and spacer bushing from the kit, secure them with a special elongated nut with a torque of 110...120 Nm (11...12kGm). at the same time, the pump drive pulley and the sleeve are centered on the nut (tool: socket head 38, torque wrench,)
7.2. Install the hydraulic booster pump bracket according to Fig. 3, install and tighten the bolts with lock washers from the kit M6x25 bolt -6 ... 8 Nm (0.6 ... 0.8 kgf); bolt M8x20 -20 ... 25 Nm (2 ... 2.5 kgm). Using an M8x50 bolt, fix the cylinder head through the upper support platform of the bracket, placing a flat spacer 2 mm thick under it and tightening the bolt to a torque of 35 ... 38 Nm (3.5 ... 3.8 kGm) (tool: socket wrench 10. socket wrench 13 with extension)
7.3. Install the power steering pump on the fixed bracket according to FIG. 3, while not tightening the two M12x1.75x30 pump fastening bolts with flat washers.
7.4. Put the V-belt from the kit on the pump drive pulley on the crankshaft and on the pulley of the pump itself. Tension the belt by moving the pump in the grooves of the bracket and tighten the pump fastening bolts to 20...23 Nm (2...2.3 kgm). The deflection of the upper branch of the pump drive belt in the middle part should be 8. . 12 mm when exposed to a force of 100 N (10 kg), tighten the belt if necessary (tool: socket head 17. torque wrench, dynamometer, ruler, caliper)

8. Installation of hydraulic hoses
8.1. Remove the transport plugs from the openings of the hydraulic booster, pump, hydraulic booster tank and hoses immediately before installing the hoses, while ensuring that dirt cannot enter the units and assemblies (tool: Phillips screwdriver)
8.2. Install the high-pressure hose, connecting it with one end to the pump inlet, and the other end to the high pressure inlet of the hydraulic booster through a hollow bolt M14x 1.5 and two copper gaskets D14 mm. Tighten the connections hermetically to a torque of 37 ... 40 Nm (3.7 ... 4 kGm) (tool: socket wrench 17 with extension, wrench 13)
8.3. After tightening the M14x1.5 hollow bolts, final tighten the nuts of the angled threaded ends of the hose, making sure that the hose does not bend or touch the car parts (tool: wrench 19. wrench 17)
8.4. Install the low pressure pipe D12 from the kit on the drain hole of the hydraulic booster through the hollow bolt M16x1.5 and two copper gaskets D16. Turn the installed tube on the hydraulic booster so as to put on the hose with the clamp. Tighten the connection hermetically to a torque of 37...40 Nm (3.7...4 kGm) (tool: socket wrench 19 with extension)
8.5. Install the D12 low pressure drain hose on the D12 low pressure pipe on the hydraulic booster. Tighten the hose with a screw clamp from the kit to a torque of 2Km (0.2kGm) (tool: socket wrench 6)
8.6. Install the low-pressure supply hose D16 on the inlet pump nozzle. Tighten the hose with a screw clamp from the kit to a torque of 2 Nm (0.2 kGm) (tool: flat screwdriver, socket wrench 6)

9. Installed previously removed components and assemblies and final assembly of power steering systems
9.1. Install and secure the modified pedal block mounting bracket in the reverse order of removal.
9.2. Install and secure the clutch actuator cylinder, brake master cylinder and brake booster in the reverse order of their removal.
9.3. Install the hydraulic booster oil reservoir mounting bracket so that the center of the bracket collar circle is located between the main brake cylinder and the side member according to FIG. , drill DZ mm, Phillips screwdriver)
9 4. Install the hydraulic booster reservoir in such a way that the reservoir branch pipes are parallel to the axis of the main brake cylinder, and tighten the bracket clamp with the M6x25 bolt to a torque of 4 Nm (0.4 kgm) (tool; socket wrench 10)
9.5. Connect the D12 low pressure drain hose coming from the hydraulic booster to the D12 branch pipe of the hydraulic booster reservoir. Tighten the hose with a screw clamp from the kit to a torque of 2 Nm (0.2 kGm), if necessary, adjust the length of the hose in place (tool: flat screwdriver, wrench 6)
9.6. Connect the D16 low pressure supply hose coming from the pump to the D16 branch pipe of the power steering reservoir. Tighten the hose with a screw clamp from the kit to a torque of 2 Nm (0.2 kGm), if necessary, adjust the length of the hose in place (tool: flat screwdriver, wrench 6)
9.7. Install the intermediate steering cardan shaft from the kit on the steering shaft of the previously removed steering shaft bracket, and tighten the locking bolt with nut and lock washer to 30...33 Nm (3...3.3 kgm). Attention - the locking bolt of the fork must pass through the annular groove of the splined shaft (tool: socket head 13. wrench 13, torque wrench)
9.8. Install and secure, without tightening, the steering shaft bracket with the steering wheel with bolts with lock washers from the kit, replacing the breakaway bolts. In doing so, turn the steering wheel shaft so that the steering wheel spokes are horizontal. It is necessary to monitor the preservation of the average position of the power steering shaft relative to its extreme positions, and the coincidence of the mark on the end face of the power steering shaft with the mark on its body. In this position, connect the lower yoke of the intermediate propeller shaft to the power steering shaft. Tighten the locking bolt with nut and lock washer to 30...33 Nm (3...3.3 kgm). Attention - the locking bolt of the fork must pass through the annular groove of the splined shaft (tool; socket wrench 10. socket wrench 13 with extension, wrench 13. torque wrench)
9.9. Install the steering wheel with the steering column and bracket in the axial direction so that there is a gap of 2 ... 3 mm between the plastic thrust washer and the column bearing housing. Tighten the M8 nuts for fastening the bracket to a torque of 27 ... 30 Nm (2.7 ... 3 kGm), tighten the M6 ​​bolts for fastening the bracket to a torque of 7 ... 8 Nm (0.7 ... 0.8 kGm) of the shaft. If necessary, cut the rubber floor mat as follows. so that it does not touch the rotating parts of the intermediate steering propeller shaft (tool: socket head 10 with extension, socket head 13 with extension, torque wrench, shoe knife)
9.10. Put the wiring harness pads on the ignition switch, on the alarm switch, on the three-lever switch, on the brake light switch
9.11. Install the upper and lower steering shaft covers by tightening the fixing screws (tool: Phillips screwdriver)
9.12. For a car with an injection engine, install the canister with bracket assembly at the bottom of the left mudguard in place as follows. so that it does not touch the pulleys on the crankshaft of the engine Drill holes with a diameter of 6.5 mm in place. Fasten the adsorber with M6x20 bolts from the kit and nuts for fastening the bracket with washers (tool: socket head 10, ring spanner 10, electric drill, drill D6.5 mm)
9.13. Modify the windshield washer reservoir in the lower corner on the engine side, after pouring liquid out of it. For refinement, it is necessary to heat the corner of the tank with warm air from a hair dryer and, by pressing a wooden bar, deform the corner inside the tank. Try on the tank, setting it in place, the corner of the tank should not touch the power steering pump pulley. If necessary, repeat the refinement (tool: electric hair dryer, wooden block)
9.14. Install the modified windshield washer reservoir by attaching the tubes and wires to the washer motors.
9.15. For a car with an injection engine, install the fuel filter on the left mudguard of the car, tighten its fastening nuts (tool: socket wrench 10)
9.16. For a car with an injection engine - install the ignition module with the bracket assembly, as shown in FIG. 4, and screw the M8x16 bolt with a lock washer from the kit into the threaded hole previously made in the cylinder block, tighten the bolt to a torque of 25 ... 30 Nm (2 .5...3 kGm). Connect the high voltage wires and the wiring harness block. Tie up the wiring harness if necessary (tool: socket wrench 13 with extension)

10. Filling with oil of the hydraulic system of the hydraulic booster
10.1. Attention - it is forbidden to start the engine without oil in the hydraulic system of the hydraulic booster in order to avoid damage to the hydraulic booster pump.
10.2. Unscrew the cap of the hydraulic booster reservoir, fill in oil to the lower edge of the reservoir filler neck. For refueling, use ATF oil in accordance with the enclosed list of recommended oils.
The volume of oil for filling the hydraulic booster system is 1 liter
10.3 Hang the front wheels of the car on a jack or lift, having previously braked the rear wheels with a hand brake and blocks
10.4. Turn the wheels of the car from lock to lock several times. pouring oil into the tank
10.5. If necessary, remove the remaining air from the hydraulic booster system by unscrewing it with a wrench
special fitting on the hydraulic booster. Draining the liquid with bubbles, tighten the fitting (tool: ring wrench 8)
10.6. If necessary, repeat the pumping operation, adding fluid and turning the wheels from lock to lock until fluid flows out of the fitting without bubbles
10.7. Bring the oil level in the tank to the MAX mark on the dipstick of the tank plug, adding oil. Close the bottle cap tightly
10.8. Lower the front wheels of the car, put the “minus” terminal on the battery and tighten it with a bolt (tool: wrench 10)
10.9. Start the engine and check the operation of the hydraulic booster, make sure that there are no leaks from the system when turning the wheels to the extreme positions, If necessary, eliminate the detected leaks and repeat the procedure for filling and pumping the hydraulic booster
10.10. Install the spare wheel bracket and spare wheel (tool: socket wrench 13. socket wrench 10). Close the car hood.

11. Recommended brands of oils for refueling power steering
Attention: fill the hydraulic booster only with oils for automatic transmissions.
AGIP DEXRON II D-21103
ARAL OEL РЗ19 DEXRON D-20383
AVIA FLUID ATF 77 DEXRON D-20760
BP AUTRAN DX II D-20335
CALTEX TEXAMATIC FLUID DEXRON D-20139
CASTROL TQ DEXRON II D-20815
ESSO ATF DEXRON D-21065
ESSO ATF DEXRON D-21611
SHELL DEXRON II D-20137
TEXACO TEXAMATIC 9226 D-20112
VEEDOL ATF DEXRON II D-20816
PENTOSIN CHF IIS

Finally, I collected all the missing parts and installed the power steering from the Chevrolet Niva.
The fact that the steering wheel has become easier to spin is nothing to say! Now I don't know how I drove before.
Did a test drive today and it's great. Now, even with the rear lock turned on, the steering wheel can be turned with a finger.

I installed the power steering pump in the regular place of the generator. Since my tractor has long taken root at the top.
Well, now the nuances that I encountered.

Pump, steering machine, tank and pump bracket purchased

1) I had to make the pump bracket myself.
2) A pulley was purchased from GUR 21214 with a nut and a spacer.
3) Belt picked up, length 670mm
4) I cut a hole for the steering machine according to the template. I foamed too much, I didn’t have anther.
5) I cut the bipod so that the bolt does not interfere with the full turn of the steering wheel.
6) I ordered a high pressure hose, it was done in 10 minutes. Length 1.1 meters. Runs under engine protection. Ends 90 degrees.
7) Low pressure hoses
8) Kardanchik between the steering wheel and steering wheel. car came up with 21214 Niva with electric power, came up without any alterations.

Many people buy a power steering kit from Chevrolet Niva (2123)
To install the pump to the power steering bracket, you need such plates, I have not seen them for sale anywhere.
Made my own. Completely repeat factory.

Plates for fastening the power steering pump to the bracket.

Made with a margin.

Bracket GURA NIVA - work on the bugs

Somehow I noticed that when the internal combustion engine is running at idle, the generator, together with the bracket, suspiciously telepathizes. I muffled, pulled the gene, the bracket, the power steering pump, everything sits dead. I start the engine again - no change. I decided to stretch the bracket mount and then everything immediately fell into place, just touched the bolt with a key, half the bolt breaks off, I touch the next one of the same crap + the same thing happens with the belt tensioner bracket on the gene. Naturally, bummers remain in the block. Started taking it apart.

You can see the break in the cylinder head and block

The radiator was removed due to the fact that I thought I would have to drill out the chips, but to my surprise, even when they broke down, they got out by hand.

Next, removing the bracket began to find out the cause of this failure. Upon detailed examination of all the details, it turned out that the native studs for fastening the front cover of the internal combustion engine (which I replaced with longer bolts when installing the bracket) were 6, the holes in the bracket were 8. Well, the material from which they were made played an important role these bolts.
To do this, we order adapter pins M6-M8 of the corresponding length from the turner. He carved them out of a drill rod, in short, you will break the hell.

Left: drill rod adapter studs. right: original factory stud

We install the bracket on new studs. And in order not to remember this trouble anymore, I decided to fix the bracket with another point that was provided, but was not fixed there. when installing the GUR, I was afraid to drill the block. This point is in the distributor area, here it is:

Drilled, tapped and bolted.

Now the bracket, as expected, is fixed at all 4 points.

Put everything back together, ran it, checked it - everything is fine. Hope it lasts a long time

http://www.niva-faq.msk.ru/tehnika/rulevoe/igur.htm, https://www.drive2.ru/l/1660949/, https://www.drive2.ru/l/1712351 /, https://www.drive2.ru/l/5100674/, https://www.drive2.ru/l/6352414/, https://www.drive2.ru/l/4230093/

The power steering did not appear on cars immediately, because the very first cars (and some modern cheap models in the basic configuration like ZAZ Chance) did not particularly need this element due to low speeds, low weight, small contact patch with the road (the first the tires were quite narrow). However, the automotive industry, including the truck industry, developed, and in the 30s of the last century, pneumatic power steering appeared on mining dump trucks. A little later, this idea "migrated" in the form of a hydraulic system to passenger cars. In the USA, the first power steering appeared on the Chrysler Crown Imperial model in 1951, and in Europe - in 1954 on a Citroen DS 19 car. The power steering on the Niva appeared decades later.

Working Principle of Hydraulic Control System

power steering for this model

How does power steering work? Its main element is a pump, which, using a belt from the crankshaft, sucks in oil and pumps it into the distributor. The latter, in turn, monitors the force applied to the steering wheel, and with the help of a torsion bar (follower) helps to turn the drive wheels. When driving in a straight line, the torsion bar does not twist, so the distributor channels are blocked and the oil is drained back into the tank.

Power steering most often benefits when parking and cornering, facilitating the work of the hands three times. It can also be said that the mechanism weakens the transmission of micro-shocks from the road surface to the steering. The mechanism is also useful in case of a sharp drop in tire pressure. The disadvantages of the power steering include the fact that it interferes with the "feel of the car", so the designers need to achieve a compromise between the information content and the stiffness of the steering wheel.

Foreign manufacturers are conducting a lot of research in order to make the hydraulic booster light at low speed and elastic at high speed. To do this, pressure modulators are installed in German hydraulic boosters from ZF, which, with increasing speed, limit the oil pressure in the working circuit. In addition, schemes with a power steering drive from an electric motor are acceptable, which makes it possible to change the pump performance in accordance with the rotations of the electric drive. Sometimes the gear ratio is also changed.

We put the amplifier on the Niva on our own

The power steering is not installed on all Niva cars in the basic configuration, so almost all Nivovods seek to improve their car with this useful unit. You can buy both a German and a Russian version, which is better to install in a workshop if you do not have significant experience in auto repair to do it yourself. The cost of parts is about 25-27 thousand rubles, for work at a service station they can take about 8-10 thousand rubles.

Assembled part

The general scheme for installing power steering on the domestic Niva is as follows:

This is how the preliminary preparation of the machine for the installation of the hydraulic booster is carried out. In addition, the body will have to be modified in terms of expanding the hole in the bulkhead and making a groove in the pedal block bracket (you will need a drill, a jigsaw, an electric saw, a file, a chisel, a hammer, a D9mm drill).

To put the power steering, you need to make some changes to the engine. To do this, a mounting bracket from the hydraulic booster pump is installed on the cylinder block, the marking of the center of the side hole is determined, a threaded hole is made with a depth of strictly 12 mm. Then the pulley fastening nut on the crankshaft is unscrewed (with 4th gear and handbrake engaged). For injection options, it is required to correct the module (ignition) bracket. To do this, the coil block is unscrewed from the bracket and its eye is unbent using a vice and a hammer in a certain way.

This article will be of interest to owners of Niva produced before 2007. After 2007, they began to install a power steering on the Niva from the factory, until 2007 they believed that it was not needed. Having driven a VAZ 21214M with power steering, now I can’t even imagine how you can drive without it, all the same, the steering wheel on the Niva is quite heavy. I decided to address the issue of the possibility of installing a power steering. I analyzed information on the Internet and came to the conclusion that there are 2 ways to solve this problem. The first is the installation of a hydraulic booster, the second is the installation of an electric booster.

Power steering.
Two types of power amplifiers can be installed on an old-style Niva. The first one is from Chevrolet-Niva with a ZF gearbox, and the second is Russian-made with a specially designed for Niva 2121-213. In the course of installation and observations, it can be said that the fundamental difference in these G / amplifiers is that in the latter, the gearbox housing is steel, not cast iron, and should better withstand shock loads (more often they are placed on cars prepared for “active off-road”), and so there is more bipod inversion, but so far there have been no complaints about any of the gur designs, as the installation firms claim.

ZF hydraulic booster for Niva

Russian hydraulic booster for Niva

Russian power steering kit for Niva

True, it should be noted the difference in the installation of these structures. The hydraulic booster of Russian production is put harder. In the case of installation on a 2121 field, it is often necessary to change the vacuum booster and its bracket on the 214th or Sh / niva models, because otherwise Gur does not become.

Brief technical characteristics of the hydraulic booster ZF NIVA
Total steering speed 2.9
Gear ratio of the screw pair 14.5
Operating pressure 85…100 MPa
Volume flow 6 l/min
Maximum oil temperature 120 degrees C
The total volume of oil in the system is 1 liter
Oil tank volume 0.4 l

The hydraulic booster for the Niva costs between 27,000 and 31,000. The kit has everything you need for installation, including instructions.

If you are a techie, then I think you can easily figure out how to install it, in extreme cases, there are detailed instructions on the Internet with photos for installing it, but just in case, I copied the GUR installation procedure at the end of the article. If you do not want to strain with its installation, then in the service its installation costs about 5000 rubles.

Electric power steering.
The electric power steering is an original steering column consisting of: a steering column, an electric motor, a worm gear, a control unit. The electric power steering, in my opinion, is easier to install, and its cost ranges from 14,000 to 17,000 rubles .. Here's how it looks.

Electric power steering for Niva. Installation kit

After installation on the car, it visually looks something like this:

Electric booster after installation

Advantages over hydraulic booster (according to the manufacturer):
Manufacturability of installation - EURU is mounted on a car with one node without intrusion into the engine compartment.
Reliability - there are no components inherent in hydraulic boosters (hoses, pulleys, fluids).
Environmental friendliness.
Energy saving, lower fuel consumption from 5% to 8% - EURU works only when the steering wheel is rotated and mainly in parking and low-speed modes.
Informative - EURU provides an increase in effort on the steering wheel with an increase in vehicle speed.
Price - EURU costs 1.6 times cheaper than a hydraulic booster.

Main technical characteristics of EURU:
Supply voltage (nominal) -12V;
The maximum compensating moment is from 35 to 42 Nm (corresponding to a decrease in the force on the steering wheel from 22 kgf to 3.5 kgf);
Maximum current consumption-55A;
The mass of the electromechanism is 10.5 kg.

Practice has shown:
1. The steering wheel on a stationary machine can be easily rotated with one hand, on the field the force drops from 20 to 3.5 kgf.
2. In gentle high-speed turns, the force on the steering wheel increases clearly and unambiguously, adequately informing the driver about the position of the steered wheels.
3. In case of failure of the electric power steering, the steering wheel will become a little “heavier” than that of a conventional car.

If we compare the effort of electric and power steering, then I think that with electric power steering the steering wheel is even easier to turn. But he has his downsides. I assume that if you drive a Niva along a good ford, then getting the electric booster into the water is fraught with the fact that it can fail. Also, the minus of the electric amplifier is that it does not look very aesthetically in the cabin, in my opinion. But for all its disadvantages, it has very big advantages - this is the price and the fact that it creates a very good effort. Detailed instructions with photos for its installation are available on the Internet.

In my opinion, this article will be of interest to Nivovods who do not have a power steering, but who have a desire to install it. Good luck!

“First of all, we remove the steering wheel of the car. The steering wheel is removed complete with cardan joint. The fasteners of the latter will be used to install the power steering gear. Loosen the fan belt to install the power steering pump. Next, remove the fan, substitute a fan spacer under it and fix it to the hub. To fill the system, remove the oil tank cap, fill it with oil to a certain level. We turn the steering wheel from lock to lock, while the engine remains not running. Thus, we get rid of the air in the tank. When pumping, we hang out the front wheels or disconnect the tie rod from the bipod. Then we start the Niva engine, at the same time add oil to the tank. It is recommended to fill oil at a rate of at least 5.5 liters per minute, this will prevent air from entering the suction line. If the oil in the tank begins to foam, then this indicates that air has entered the system. Immediately turn off the power unit and let the oil settle for 20 minutes until bubbles stop appearing.
We inspect the hose connections with the units and, if damage is found, we change the hose fragment. We let the Niva motor run for 20 seconds and pump the power steering system, then we remove residual air from the RM, this is done by turning the steering wheel from lock to lock, and we do not linger in extreme positions, three times in each direction. Close the tank with a lid, tighten the lid nut by hand. During further operation, it is best not to hold the steering wheel in the extreme position for more than 5 seconds, otherwise the oil may overheat and, as a result, the power steering pump will fail. If, nevertheless, the power steering pump is out of order, as well as in case of damage to the hose or pump drive belt, when towing a Niva with an idle engine, you can use the PM only for a short time until the breakdown is repaired. Prolonged use of the steering gear with a faulty power steering can cause it to wear out prematurely. The power steering pump must be periodically inspected and serviced. The flow and safety valves are flushed if they are dirty. This is done as follows: unscrew the plug over the pump outlet, pull out the spring and the flow valve spool, at this time put the plug in place to prevent oil from escaping, flush the spool and safety valve. Assembly is carried out in the reverse order.