Contact ignition system. Contact ignition system Adjustment of the distributor vaz 2106

Classic Zhiguli models will be in demand until a worthy replacement appears for them, both in terms of price and quality. The availability, endurance and maintainability of rear-wheel drive Fiat 124 clones are still confirmed by millions of kopecks, triples, sixes and sevens, which are in constant circulation on one sixth of the land. Prices for classic Zhiguli will no longer grow, and therefore a rear-wheel drive dinosaur with a carburetor can be bought for literally a hundred dollars. And it is an ideal choice for those who are just starting to learn how to turn nuts and steering wheels, as well as those who need an unpretentious au pair.

Contact ignition VAZ 2106

In the photo - VAZ 2106, which is an exact copy of the Fiat 124

Different ignition systems were installed on the car at different times, but the Fiat contact design is considered a classic. Its device is incredibly simple - an ignition coil, a distributor, a bundle of high-voltage wires and the right candles. This is all that is needed for the correct operation of the engine. On the first batches of sixes, until 1980, a R125-B distributor of the simplest design was installed without vacuum adjustment of the ignition timing. After installing a standard Ozone carburetor, it became possible to equip the distributor with a vacuum advance angle adjustment system.

Structurally, the distributors differ only in the presence of a vacuum membrane chamber, which is connected to the primary chamber of the carburetor. At a certain period, a distributor without a vacuum chamber was installed and it was structurally similar to the old one. Reel B117-a, sealed, filled with oil, with open magnetic conductors. In a word, there is practically nothing to break. It remains to check the condition of the elements of the system and you can begin to adjust.

How to check the contact ignition system

The method of checking the ignition system can come in handy when the engine stubbornly refuses to start. There can be many reasons for this, but you still need to start with the ignition.

Video tutorial on the VAZ ignition system: contact and non-contact

Checking the ignition system is carried out in the following sequence:

the tightness of the fit of the high-voltage wires on the cover of the distributor, on the caps of the candles and the central wire on the ignition coil is checked;
the contact is checked on the wire from the coil to the distributor and on the wires going to the coil;
after that, the presence of voltage on the coil is checked - with the ignition on, the voltage at terminal b + of the coil is checked with a tester or with a probe;
if everything is normal with the voltage, further along the circuit the presence of a spark is checked on the central wire of the distributor - it is removed from the central socket, the motor is turned by the starter and a spark is caught between the wire contact and ground;
the spark is checked on each of the high-voltage wires and on each of the candles, simultaneously viewing their condition.

Candles should be of a normal working color, without plaque, soot and oil, and the gap between the electrodes should be 1 mm. If there is no spark at the output of the distributor, the cause may be a broken cover of the distributor, a microcrack in it or a malfunction of the contact group, destruction of the slider. Every self-respecting owner of the six is \u200b\u200bmust have both a slider and a serviceable cover in stock. This will save your nerves on a rainy November evening when the engine refuses to start. The runner, in principle, can be tried to be repaired by checking the resistance and the condition of the contact, but no one did this even in the dense Soviet times.

Special attention should be paid to the state of the contact group. The gap between the contacts must correspond to the factory rating - 0.36-0.4 mm. The contacts must be clean, without traces of sparks. If we already got to the contacts, you can clean them with a zero file or polishing sandpaper. If everything sparks, rotates and shows signs of life, you can safely proceed to adjusting the ignition.

Properly set ignition will reveal the full potential of the VAZ 2106 engine and affect the stability of the engine at idle, in transient conditions, as well as ensure optimal fuel consumption and normal dynamics. There is a class of drivers who can drive for years with a broken ignition and mumble about how Fiat engines "do not run" or have high consumption. In most cases, incorrectly set contact ignition is to blame, since the public is used to dealing with electronic or non-contact ignition, where the adjustment procedure is generally carried out in one minute.

Just in case, let's decide and remember that the point of setting the ignition timing with your own hands is that the spark that jumps on the candle slips before the piston is at the top dead center of the compression stroke. Each motor has its own value, and for the VAZ 2106 it is 1 degree. 2101, for example, has 3 degrees. The advance is necessary so that the fuel burns out in the chamber completely and does not interfere with the movement of the piston. The ignition timing is adjusted according to a specific algorithm.

There is nothing complicated about this, just follow the procedure and the nominal angles and gaps:

The spark plugs are unscrewed and the compression stroke is found in the 4th cylinder, since the adjustment is carried out precisely on the 4th cylinder. To do this, a plug is installed in place of the candle or the hole is covered with a finger, the engine is turned, and when the plug pops out, the compression stroke is found.
Align the long mark on the engine front cover with the mark on the crankshaft pulley. The long mark indicates the zero lead angle.
The distributor slider must be strictly perpendicular to the cylinder head.
The candle is connected to the wire of 4 cylinders and set to ground so that the presence of a spark can be seen.
Turn the crankshaft a quarter of a turn counterclockwise.
Turn on the ignition and crank the crankshaft until a spark appears on the candle.
Control the position of the crankshaft relative to the marks.

If necessary, adjust the lead angle by turning the distributor so that the spark slips between the long and middle marks.

After that, the ignition angle is checked on the go. On a warm six, they drive onto a flat stretch of road and accelerate to 40 km / h in fourth gear. At the same time, sharply press the accelerator pedal. With the ignition correctly set, the engine should detonate for a few seconds, then continue to accelerate. If the detonation does not stop, then the ignition is too early, if the engine does not detonate at all, there is no characteristic knock of the piston fingers, then the ignition is late. Ignition correction can be carried out with a stroboscope, but on the contact system you can get by with the method described above, or instead of a spark, focus on a control lamp connected to the break in the contacts on the ignition distributor.

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Repair of the ignition distributor VAZ 2106 consists in replacing worn parts with new ones, for this it is necessary to disassemble the distributor. For disassembly, we will need: two keys for “7”, for “10”, “13”, screwdrivers, a set of flat probes, special mandrels for pressing out and pressing in bearings, tweezers.

If everything is there, then you can proceed:

First of all, we unscrew the screws securing the rotor to the distribution plate and remove it.
After removing the rotor, mark all the springs and weights of the centrifugal ignition timing controller with a marker so that they are not mixed up during assembly. After marking, pry the springs with a screwdriver and remove them.

Next, you need to disconnect the wires of the condenser and the ignition coil, for this, holding the nut on the screw of the moving contact, you need to unscrew the wire fastening nut.
Disconnect the capacitor by unscrewing the screw securing it to the distributor housing.

Remove the contact group by unscrewing the two fastening screws. Next, remove the lock and insulating washers from the contact group. Prying off the insulating washer of the spring plate with a screwdriver, remove the moving contact from the axis.

Further, from the axis of the movable plate of the ignition distributor, it is necessary to remove the lock washer of the thrust of the vacuum advance regulator and pry the thrust with a screwdriver.
Having unscrewed the screws securing the vacuum advance regulator from the distributor housing, remove it.

Place the distributor on a vise and press out the pin of the oil slinger from the distributor shaft. We remove the clutch together with the washer and pull the roller out of the distributor housing.

We unscrew the screws securing the bearing retaining plates and remove them, after which we remove the movable plate assembly from the housing with the bearing. It is most convenient to remove the locking plates with washers with tweezers.

This completes the disassembly of the distributor. it is necessary to start after a visual inspection of all its parts and after the detection of various defects, replace worn parts with new ones.

Using a capacitance meter, check the capacitor, its capacitance should be 0.2-0.25 uF. If there is no device, then it is better to replace the old conder with a new one, they are not expensive in terms of money.
Check the condition of the distributor roller. On its surface there should be no traces of obvious development. If necessary, replace it with a new one.
Check the condition of the diaphragm at the vacuum advance angle regulator. To check, it is necessary to press the rod and plug the fitting, if the diaphragm is working, then it will keep the rod pressed.
Check the status of the contacts. Contacts should not have any signs of burning, the planes should be even, not oval. Clean the contacts with a needle file. The use of sandpaper is not allowed. After cleaning the contact surfaces, wash them with clean gasoline. If it was not possible to get rid of traces of burning, replace the contacts with new ones.
Also replace the bearing (sleeve) of the distributor housing if it has wear marks. To press out the press-in, use mandrels of a suitable diameter.

Assemble the ignition distributor in the reverse order of disassembly. After assembling the distributor, adjust the contact gap of the breakers (see.

All owners of domestically produced cars face the need to adjust the ignition. Especially when it comes to older vehicles. This material will help you find out how the VAZ 2106 car is and in what cases it may be required.

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When is ignition required?

There are several symptoms by which the car owner can determine that it is necessary to adjust and set the ignition breaker:

Inability to start the engine.
Increased fuel consumption. Of course, this may be due to the need to adjust the carburetor, but this also happens. For example, if the ignition is set later, then the dynamics of the car will be low, and in order to accelerate normally, the engine needs more air-fuel mixture.
The appearance of shots in the silencer. If the explosion follows, it will take a certain time for the gases to expand. In the event that the piston reaches BDC, the next exhaust stroke will be, which means that a certain part of the fuel will be transferred to the exhaust system. Accordingly, pops will appear as a result.
The power unit began to work more noisily. and correctly put 2106 will be needed in case of shaking and tripping of the motor. The piston going up makes the work of the power unit more rigid, while the explosion of the mixture will occur towards it.

Installing and adjusting the distributor

On a VAZ 2106 car, distributor repair is necessary if it does not work correctly, but if this element is working properly, in order to correctly set it, you first need to set the marks. The crankshaft rotates either with a ratchet or with a special wrench for a nut. On the cover of the power unit you can see the marks.

To correctly set the ignition, the marks must be correctly aligned:

The first meta set in the direction of travel is ten degrees ahead of the angle. This parameter is relevant to use for cars using 72 fuel.
The mark located in the middle is an advance of the angle by five degrees, which is optimal for cars that are used on 80 gasoline.
The last risk is a lead angle of 0 degrees. This means that the ignition of the combustible mixture will be carried out at the time when the piston is located at TDC. When setting labels, you need to take into account these nuances.

When you are done setting marks, you need to put the desired gap in the contacts. To do this, the runner of the distribution unit must be removed and the fixing bolt of the interrupting element must be unscrewed. It is recommended to clean the contacts with sandpaper in advance. In the open state, the gap on the contacts should be no more than 0.4 mm.

Before, it is necessary to unscrew the fastening of the distribution unit with a wrench, then it can be removed from the housing.

In order for the unit to be put in place to work correctly, consider the following nuances:

The adjustment was made according to the TDC mark on the 1st cylinder, so at the moment the spark should appear in it. To catch this moment, you need to install the cover of the VAZ 2106 distributor and mark the place where the high-voltage spark plug cable from the first cylinder enters. Then it is necessary to dismantle the cover, after which the external contact of the slider is installed opposite the risks.
After that, in order for the power unit to work in normal mode, it is necessary to draw a conditional line between its latches and place the mechanism in the installation site so that this line is parallel to the motor block. It should also be noted here that it is far from always possible to get into the slots right away, perhaps for this you need to scroll the case a little. In principle, this is not scary, since in the future the ignition will still need to be adjusted. You need to ensure that the mechanism can fully sit in the installation site, right up to the moment until it completely rests against the block. Having done this, the knot can be pulled into place (the author of the video is Andrey Gorinov).

Device malfunctions

Replacement and repair of the distributor on the domestic "six" is carried out in case of incorrect operation of the mechanism.

The following are the main symptoms of breakdowns that indicate possible malfunctions:

The vehicle jerks while driving. And these jerks are not typical for cars at all.
The motor generally does not start.
When you try to accelerate the car, the car can also twitch, and the acceleration process itself takes a lot of time, while the engine can detonate - the piston rings knock.
Increased fuel consumption.

As you can see, in general, the signs are similar to those that appear when the ignition is set incorrectly. Of course, if such symptoms appear, it is impossible to say for sure that the malfunction lies precisely in the distributor, however, attention should also be paid to the diagnosis of this node.

As for the breakdowns directly, which may force the car owner to repair or replace the mechanism, they are as follows:

Worn and burned out the slider of the node.
The problem lies in the cover itself - the contacts on it could burn out.
Hall sensor failure. The problem can be associated not only with a breakdown of the controller, but also with a bad contact on the controller plug.
Another reason that domestic drivers encounter quite often is the distributor bearing. He had a long operation, he could loosen up, but he could also just jam.
The presence of mechanical damage, including cracks on the cover.
Engine fluid enters the distribution unit, usually the problem is related to the tightness of the cover.

On the VAZ 2106 car models, the ignition system remained unchanged until 1980. Then, in the design of the VAZ 21065, a non-contact-transistor ignition interrupter circuit was first implemented. However, almost on most model versions of the "six" a contact ignition system (KSZ) was installed. The electromechanical ignition system with the opening of the contacts of the distributor is considered traditional for the classic VAZ 2106. It provides for the opening of the contact group using the R-125B ignition distributor.

The invariance of the ignition system gives a lot of experience in its correct installation and adjustment. Photo: el-ab.ru

How the ignition system works on the VAZ 2106

The system consists of the following components:

ignition lock;
distributor;
coils;
high/low voltage wires;
4 candles.

Egnition lock VK347 in position "I" connects the battery to the ignition system, in key position "II" the engine starts from the starter.

Breaker-distributor (distributor)- connects the spark plugs to the coil in the order of operation of cylinders 1-3-4-2. Creates an advanced ignition moment (in the compression stage) of the fuel mixture in the combustion chamber. Initially, the R-125B with a mechanical octane corrector was installed on the VAZ model, but it had a small adjustment range.

Since 1986, they began to install a breaker equipped with a vacuum ignition timing controller model 30.3706.

Coil is a step-up 2-winding transformer that creates high-voltage pulses with a voltage of over 10 kV. Typically, a reel B 117-A is used, equipped with an open-ended magnetic circuit.

wires carry out the transmission of high-voltage / low-voltage voltage to the actuators and candle elements of the system.

Candles A17 DV or analogues create a spark (the gap between the electrodes is 0.5–0.6 mm) from the applied pulsed voltage in the combustion chamber.

Electric current flows through the circuit of the ignition system: positive (+) of the battery → ignition switch → coil → distributor → spark plugs.

When is Ignition Adjustment Required?

The correct ignition setting of the VAZ 2106 improves the ease of starting the car engine, the dynamics and the resource of the power unit. Without fail, it is carried out after:

overhaul of the engine or operations related to the partial disassembly of the engine;
reinstallation of the camshaft;
valve burnout;
replacement of cylinder block gaskets, chain / timing belt.

What happens if there is no regulation

Contactless ignition is one of the most popular ways to tune domestic cars. Photo: vaz-remzona.ru

In the case of ignition advance, a metallic overtone will appear during engine operation, the engine is unstable, idle speed “floats”, tractive effort drops, and fuel consumption is excessive.

With late ignition, the throttle response of the motor drops, the motor is coked with soot, as a result of which it quickly heats up. To accelerate the car, you need to press the gas pedal hard.

The consequence of incorrectly set ignition is premature wear of the cylinder-piston group, engine jamming from overheating and failure of vehicle components.

How to properly adjust the ignition on your own

Ignition adjustment can be done in a repair shop using a stroboscope or independently. Of the tools and equipment, you will need a crankshaft key, a key for “13”, a 12 V control light, which can be replaced with a voltmeter. First, unfasten the latches and remove the distributor cover. At the first stage of work:

Disconnect (-) battery terminal.
On an idle power unit, set the piston of the first cylinder to the position corresponding to the compression phase (spark jump) before the top dead center.
To do this, turn out the candle of the first cylinder and plug the hole in the cylinder head with your finger.
Turning the crankshaft with a key, we select the position in which the air will push the finger out of the hole.
We combine two marks: on the pulley and timing cover. The latter has a long (0°), medium (5°) and short (10°) risks, indicating a different ignition timing. It is necessary to combine the risk with the average timing mark, which means setting the ignition timing to 5 °.
Screw back the spark plug and connect the high voltage cable.

At the second stage of work, we determine the ignition moment:

Connect the (-) battery terminal.
With a wrench, loosen the nut on the “13” fastening of the distributor.
We connect with the help of crocodile clips one end of the control lamp is connected to the ground, the other is connected to the low-voltage wire of the bobbin.
We connect the central wire of the breaker to the ground.
Turn the ignition key to the "I" position, the control lamp will light up.
Very slowly turn the distributor housing clockwise until the bulb turns off.
Turn the distributor slider counterclockwise until the lamp turns on.
Having fixed the position of the mechanism with one hand, we twist the fixing nut of the distributor with the other hand.

If you prefer visual instructions, check out this video:

A quick way to tune the ignition "by ear" in emergency cases

In unforeseen circumstances, it may be necessary to adjust the ignition on the road. To do this, on a running internal combustion engine, set the suction (air damper of the carburetor) to approximately 2000 rpm. engine. Loosen the fastening of the distributor and rotate the body alternately in both directions. Listening to the sound of the engine, we select the optimal position of the distributor. The power unit must develop the maximum number of revolutions and work without "failures". In the found position, we fix the distributor.

Checking the ignition settings

Checking on the road will help identify adjustment flaws, for this you should:

during the trip, develop the car on the road up to 40-50 km / h and, switching to the 4th speed, sharply press the gas pedal to the floor;
there will be a ringing of "fingers" and a detonation will occur, which should occur within 2-3 seconds ;
if the detonation lasts longer (sometimes it does not stop after some time after the engine is turned off), it is necessary to delay the ignition, loosen the fastener and turn the distributor 1 ° clockwise;
in the absence of detonation and ringing of fingers, it is necessary to make the ignition earlier, it is necessary to turn the breaker housing 1 ° counterclockwise;
after bringing the breaker body to the optimal position, tighten the fixing nut.

Conclusion

If the adjustment range is not enough to set the required parameters of the ignition system, you should pay attention to the serviceability of the system components. KSZ remains operational, but there are interruptions or does not work correctly? It is necessary to check the serviceability of the following functional elements:

breaker contacts, which often burn or melt;
distributor movable plate bearing;
textolite block or bushing of the breaker lever, they wear out over time;
bobbin windings for interturn short circuit, open circuit or flashing to ground;
armored wires / tips of spark plugs.

Many people think that it is not advisable to repair or sort out a distributor on a VAZ 2106 - it’s easier to put a new one. This statement is not always true.

The resource of the distributor is 30-50 thousand km, so if it failed earlier, it makes sense to repair it, because, most likely, only a few parts have worn out. In addition, you can make a kind of prevention and significantly increase its service life.

The VAZ 2106 distributor is a rather complex mechanism, therefore, when working with it, it is advisable to mark all the details so that after assembly it will work normally. After you have removed the distributor, you need to snap off the brackets and remove the cover.

Under it is a rotor, which is attached with two screws. Unscrew them and remove the rotor. Beneath it, on the regulator's metal plate, are two opposing spring-loaded weights. Before removing them, mark one of them and the spring so as not to confuse during assembly.

Then you need to unscrew the screw that enters the case from the back near the vacuum regulator, and remove the capacitor fixed by it.

Under the regulator plate with weights there is a contact group fixed with two screws. Loosen the screws and remove it. The rod from the vacuum regulator is protected by a retainer that must be removed.

Now, having released the thrust, you can unscrew the bolts securing the vacuum booster to the distributor housing and disconnect it. In order to remove the shaft together with the base plate, you need to knock out the locking pin, which is located in the oil protection ring.

When the pin is knocked out, you can remove the ring and lock washer, and then remove the shaft itself. Now you can remove the bearing with the cage, which were under the base plate. In the previously removed contact group, you need to free the axis from two washers, and then remove the contact itself. The distributor has been disassembled and now you can begin to assess its condition.

First of all, you should pay attention to the condition of the shaft bearing and the presence of lubricant in it - if the bearing has signs of wear or there are signs of lubricant leakage on the cuffs, it must be replaced. Check the condition of the shaft, especially the place of its contact with the inner sleeve of the housing and the sleeve itself.

If there are visible signs of wear on the shaft or bushing (which is rare, but it happens), it is better to replace them together (if you replace only one part, then during the “lapping” process, the new one will begin to deform the old one). Look at all the terminals of the distributor and the contact group - they should not have the slightest trace of oxide.

If rust has appeared, you need to carefully clean it with sandpaper-zero, then rinse it in gasoline, dry it and wipe it with a dry cloth. Check the operation of the vacuum regulator - push in the rod and clamp the fitting with your hand. If the thrust does not come out - everything is in order.

All the main malfunctions are described above, but still pay attention to every detail - if something has signs of wear, it is better to replace it immediately so as not to do the same job twice.