Replacement of rear brake linings of Hyundai Accent (Tagaz). Brake system Hyundai Accent (Hyundai Accent) How to remove the pads on the accent

We are under renovation Hyundai car Accent (Hyundai Accent), with a 1.5 liter engine, produced in 2006, on which it will be necessary to replace the rear brake pads. We'll show you how to do it correctly with your own hands, in a garage.

We have drum brakes. Remove the rear wheels and raise the car. We remove the drum, we couldn’t unscrew its fastenings using the standard method, everything was soured and covered with corrosion, we had to use an impact screwdriver:

Using brake system cleaner in a bottle, we wash off the accumulated dirt under the drum. It cleans everything very well, and it evaporates almost instantly. Using a metal hook, remove the spring.

Holding your finger from behind, press with pliers and turn the locks on both sides:

It was not possible to do this properly with pliers. Next, for ease of work, we decided to remove the hub. Using a hammer and screwdriver, knock off the cover:

Use a 32mm socket to unscrew the hub fastenings:

We remove the pads from below, so as not to damage the boot, remove the remaining spring of the handbrake cable:

We begin to rearrange all the mechanisms from old brake pads to new ones, we have them from SANGSIN, article number in the catalog SA-046.

We install new pads on the car, to do this, we pull off the spring on the handbrake cable in the same way with round pliers, and insert it into the pad mechanism:

Video of replacing rear brake pads in Hyundai Accent:

Backup video on how to replace rear brake pads in a Hyundai Accent:

The service life of rear brake pads on a Hyundai Accent car is not regulated by the manufacturer and they are usually replaced when obvious signs wear. The main symptoms of pad wear: the thickness of the friction linings is less than permissible, there is a characteristic sound (grinding) when braking, the friction linings have fallen off the base, deep grooves and chips have appeared on the linings, and the working surfaces of the linings have become oily. The minimum permissible thickness of the friction linings of the rear brake pads is 1.5 mm.
On this car There are two types of brake drums installed, which differ in size, which should be noted Special attention, when purchasing a new set of pads. Also, in case of wear, the remaining rear parts should be replaced. brake mechanism: brake drums, cylinders, etc. To work, you will need a standard set of car enthusiast tools and a jack. The main difficulty of this procedure is to remove the stuck cast iron brake drum.
Do not use gasoline diesel fuel or other mineral solvents for cleaning parts. The pads must be changed simultaneously in both brake mechanisms. rear wheels. After replacing the rear pads, do not forget to adjust the handbrake.

Attention! This video is not official instructions and car repair manuals.


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DESIGN DESCRIPTION

The service brake system is hydraulic, dual-circuit (with diagonally separated circuits), with vacuum booster and sensor insufficient level fluid in the main reservoir brake cylinder. IN normal mode(when the system is working) both circuits work. If one of the circuits fails (depressurizes), the second provides braking of the car, although with less efficiency. Some cars are equipped with an anti-lock braking system (ABS). The brake pedal is a suspended type, equipped with a return spring. The brake signal switch is located above the pedal; its contacts close when the pedal is pressed. The free play of the brake pedal should be 3-8 mm.

To reduce the effort on the brake pedal, a vacuum booster is used that uses vacuum during intake manifold running engine. The vacuum booster is located between the pedal pusher and the main brake cylinder and is attached with four nuts to the front end guard in engine compartment. The vacuum amplifier is non-separable; if it fails, it is replaced. The brake master cylinder is attached to the vacuum booster housing with two studs. A reservoir is installed on top of the cylinder, from which brake fluid flows into the cylinder. The tank has maximum and minimum levels liquid, and a warning device with a float is mounted in the tank, closing the contacts when the liquid level drops. When equipped car ABS into the holes with right side the main brake cylinder, two pipe fittings are screwed in, supplying fluid to the hydraulic

logical ABS block, from which it is supplied through channels to the working cylinders.

On a vehicle without ABS, pressure regulators are installed on the brake master cylinder. They are designed to limit the increase in fluid pressure in the hydraulic drives of the rear wheels after reaching a certain pressure in the master cylinder. This limits the braking torques of the rear wheels and reduces the likelihood of them locking ahead of the front wheels during heavy braking. Accurate testing of the pressure regulator is impossible without special equipment. Anti-lock braking system ensures stable vehicle control when braking by eliminating wheel locking. The ABS hydraulic unit, consisting of a modulator, a pump and a control unit, is attached to the bulkhead in the engine compartment under the vacuum brake booster. ABS operates depending on the signals from wheel speed sensors installed on the wheels. When the vehicle is braking, the ABS control unit detects the beginning of wheel locking and opens the corresponding solenoid valve modulator for pressure relief brake fluid in the channel. The valve opens and closes several times per second, so you can verify that the ABS is working by slightly shaking the brake pedal. If a malfunction occurs in ABS brake The system remains operational, but the wheels may lock. The corresponding fault code is written into the control unit memory, which is read using special equipment in service center. Brake mechanism front wheel- disc, single-piston, with a floating caliper and an acoustic wear indicator on the inner pad. The standard brake disc thickness should be 19.0 mm, the minimum is 17.0 mm. Maximum permissible end runoutThe brake disc gap is 0.05 mm. The thickness of the new brake pad lining is 9.0 mm, the minimum is 2.0 mm. When the thickness of the inner pad lining is less than 2.0 mm, the wear indicator begins to squeak, warning the driver about the need to replace the pads. The brake pads of the left and right wheels are replaced at the same time.

On a car with ABS, a wheel speed sensor (A) is installed in the hole in the steering knuckle, and a ring gear (B) is pressed onto the housing of the outer drive joint. Brake mechanism rear wheel- drum, with a two-piston wheel cylinder and two brake shoes, with automatic adjustment of the gap between the shoes and the drum. The standard thickness of the pad lining should be 4.8 mm, the minimum - 1.0 mm. The standard internal diameter of the brake drum is 180 mm, the maximum is 182 mm. The non-cylindricity of the working surface of the brake drum should not exceed 0.15 mm. The parking brake system is driven mechanically, by cable, to the rear wheels. It consists of a lever, a rod with an adjusting nut and two cables. The rear cable ends are connected to the drive levers parking brake installed on the rear pads. The lever, mounted between the front seats on the floor tunnel, is equipped with a mechanism for adjusting the tension of the cables. The front ends of the cables are connected to the equalizer of the tension mechanism. Full speed ahead after adjustment, the lever should correspond to a rise of 6-7 teeth along the sector.

REPLACING FRONT WHEEL BRAKE PADS

The brake pads of the front wheel mechanisms are not-_| need to be replaced only as a set - four pieces. Replacing the pads of only one brake mechanism can lead to the car pulling to the side when braking.

If the brake fluid level in the reservoir is at the “MAX” mark, use a medical syringe or a rubber bulb to pump out some of the liquid from the reservoir so that when the piston is recessed into the cylinder, the liquid does not flow out from under the reservoir cap. Remove the front wheel.

By inserting a screwdriver with a wide blade between the brake disc and the inner pad, we spread the brake pads and recess the piston into the cylinder.

Using the “12” socket we unscrew the caliper guide pin...

...and remove your finger.

We rotate the caliper around the upper guide pin and tie the caliper with a wire or cord to the front suspension spring.

We remove the outer one from the guide...

... and inner pads.

Remove the spring pad holders.

We clean the brake mechanism parts from dirt and corrosion, especially seats brake pads in the caliper and in the pad guide.

Install the pads in reverse order.

Both inner pads have acoustic wear indicators.

After replacing the pads on both front wheels, press the brake pedal several times to set the gaps between the pads and discs.

REPLACING REAR WHEEL BRAKE PADS

The brake pads of the rear wheel mechanisms must be replaced only at the same time - in a set of four pads. Replacing the pads of only one brake mechanism can lead to the car pulling to the side when braking.

If the brake fluid level in the reservoir is at the “MAX” mark, use a medical syringe or a rubber bulb to pump out some of the liquid from the reservoir so that when the piston is recessed into the cylinder, the liquid does not flow out from under the reservoir cap.

The parking brake lever must be lowered all the way (the car is unbraked* Remove the rear wheel.

The suspended part of the vehicle must be mounted on a reliable factory-made stand.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the brake drum mounting screw...

...and remove the drum.

If you have difficulty unscrewing the screw, you can use an impact screwdriver. If wear has caused a high lip on the drum running surface, it may be difficult to remove the drum. In this case, it is necessary to loosen the tension of the parking brake cable (see “Removing elements of the parking brake system,” page 124). You can remove the brake drum...

...turning it evenly and striking the end of the drum with a hammer through a wooden block.

Do not press the brake pedal after removing the brake drum, as the pistons may come out completely from the cylinders.

We clean and rinse all parts of the brake mechanism in solvent.

It is prohibited to use gasoline and diesel fuel to clean brake mechanisms.

Using a screwdriver...

...remove the upper tension spring.

Similarly, remove the tension spring.

Using a screwdriver, we disconnect it from the regulator lever. top end its springs...

...and remove the spring.

Remove the spacer bar.

We remove the rear pad from the brake shield in the same way as the front...

Remove the regulator lever.


Holding support post front pads with reverse side brake shield, press the washer and turn it until the slot of the washer aligns with the shank of the strut.

... and disconnect the cable end from the parking brake lever.

Before installing the pads, it is necessary to reduce the length of the spacer bar by tightening the adjusting nut until it stops. Install new pads in reverse order. When installing the brake drum, pay attention...

Remove the washer with the spring...

...and a support stand.

...to ensure that the holes in the hub and the drum match.

After replacing the pads on both rear wheels, press the brake pedal several times to set the pistons to the working position.

Remove the front brake pad.

We check the fluid level in the tank and, if necessary, bring it up to normal.



REMOVAL OF THE BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER

We unscrew the reservoir cap and use a rubber bulb or syringe to pump out the brake fluid from it.

We place a rag under the tube fittings to collect the remaining leaking liquid.

Using a 12" socket with an extension, unscrew the two nuts securing the master brake cylinder to the vacuum booster...

Key "11" (for brake pipes) unscrew the two brake pipe fittings...

...and move them away from the cylinder.

... and remove the cylinder.

To remove the tank, pry it up with a screwdriver from below, overcoming the resistance of the rubber connecting bushings...

By pressing the latch...

... and remove the tank.

To replace the connecting sleeve...

...disconnect the wiring block of the low brake fluid level sensor.

...remove it from the brake cylinder body.

Similarly, remove the other connecting sleeve.

Install master cylinder in reverse order. After installation, we bleed the hydraulic brake drive system (see “Bleeding the hydraulic brake drive, replacing brake fluid,” p. 34).

ADJUSTING THE FREE TRAFFIC OF THE BRAKE PEDAL

The free play of the brake pedal should be 3-8 mm.

If freewheel The brake pedal does not correspond to the norm, we adjust it. To do this, in the cabin under the instrument panel (see photo below), disconnect the wire block 1 of the brake light switch 3 from the wiring harness block. We release the plastic wire holder 2. Using a 17mm wrench, unscrew the locknut 4 of the brake light switch.

By rotating the switch, we adjust its position relative to bracket 5. Tighten the locknut and again check the free play of the brake pedal.







REPLACING THE FRONT WHEEL BRAKE HOSE

For ease of operation, remove the front wheel from the side of the hose being replaced.

Using a rubber bulb or a medical syringe, pump out the brake fluid from the reservoir.

Using a 12mm socket, unscrew the bolt fitting of the brake hose tip.

Copper sealing washers are installed on both sides of the tip.

Using a screwdriver...

...remove the hose locking plate.

Use a 12mm socket to unscrew the bolt securing the hose holder...

... and remove the hose.

Install the hose in the reverse order, avoiding twisting. We bleed the hydraulic brake drive system (see “Bleeding the hydraulic brake drive, replacing brake fluid,” p. 34). We inspect the hose connections and, if necessary, tighten the tube fitting and bolt fitting.

REMOVAL OF THE FRONT WHEEL BRAKE MECHANISM

Remove the front wheel. Disconnect from the caliper brake hose(See “Replacing the front wheel brake hose”).

Using the “12” head, unscrew the caliper guide pin.

Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the two screws securing the brake disc...

Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the two bolts securing the cylinder to the brake shield.

Turn the caliper up and remove it from the guide pin.

If necessary, replace the o-ring and boot of the working cylinder piston, protective covers guide pins and caliper pin. To remove the brake disc, remove the caliper from the steering knuckle and, without disconnecting the hose from it, hang the caliper on a wire to the suspension spring. We remove the brake pads (see “Replacing the brake pads of the front wheels,” p. 117).

Using a 17mm wrench, unscrew the two bolts securing the pad guide...

... and remove it.

If it is difficult to remove the screws, you can use an impact screwdriver.

We install all the removed parts and components in the reverse order.

REPLACING THE REAR WHEEL BRAKE CYLINDER

We replace the working cylinder in case of loss of mobility of its pistons, wear or damage to the cylinder cuffs (liquid leakage from under the boot). Remove the rear wheel brake pads (see “Replacing the rear wheel brake pads”, p. 118). Using a rubber bulb or a medical syringe, pump out the brake fluid from the reservoir.

Remove the cylinder.

... and remove it.

Using a 11" wrench (for brake pipes), unscrew the brake pipe fitting.

The connection between the shield and the cylinder is sealed with a rubber ring.

Install the rear wheel brake cylinder in the reverse order. We bleed the hydraulic brake drive system (see “Bleeding the hydraulic brake drive, replacing brake fluid,” p. 34).

REPLACING THE REAR WHEEL BRAKE HOSE

Remove the rear wheel from the side of the hose being replaced. Using a rubber bulb or a medical syringe, pump out the brake fluid from the reservoir.






Using a 11" wrench (for brake pipes), unscrew the brake pipe fitting.

Using a screwdriver...

...remove the spring clip.

We remove the rear hose tip from the hole in the bracket.

Similarly, disconnect the front hose tip.

Install the hose in the reverse order, avoiding twisting. We bleed the hydraulic drive system (see “Bleeding the hydraulic brake drive, replacing brake fluid,” p. 34). We inspect the hose connections and, if necessary, tighten the tube fittings.

REPLACING WHEEL SPEED SENSORS

To replace the front wheel speed sensor, remove the fender liner (see “Removing the front fender liner”, p. 142).

By pressing the latch...

...disconnect the speed sensor wire block from the wiring harness block.

Using a 10mm socket with an extension, unscrew the bolt securing the speed sensor to steering knuckle…

... and remove the sensor from the hole in the steering knuckle.

Using the same tool, unscrew the bolt securing the bracket for the rubber holders of the sensor wires.

Remove the rubber holder for the sensor wires from the slot in the shock absorber strut bracket.

Using a screwdriver, we bend the clamps of the wire holder bracket...

...and remove the bracket.

Front wheel speed sensor

We install the sensor in the reverse order. To remove the rear wheel speed sensor, remove the wheel.

Removing the backrest rear seat with bracket (see “Removing the rear seat”, p. 145).

Trims located behind the back of the rear seat: 1 - hatch trim luggage compartment; 2 - shock absorber lining; 3 - lower trim of the rear pillar

Using a screwdriver, pry up the three fastening pistons and remove cover 1. Remove cover 2, removing the latches from the grooves of cover 3.

...disconnect the sensor wire block from the wiring harness block.

Using a screwdriver, push towards the wheel arch rubber cover wires.

Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the screw of the lower fastening of the lining 3...

Using a 10mm socket, unscrew the bolt securing the sensor to the rear suspension knuckle...

...and, removing its latches from the grooves...

... and remove the sensor from the hole in the fist.

...remove the cover.

By pressing the latch...

Using a 10mm socket with an extension, unscrew the bolt securing the bracket for the rubber holders of the sensor wires.

Using the same tool, unscrew the bolt securing the bracket for the rubber holder of the sensor wires located on the shock absorber strut.

Remove the speed sensor with wires.

Remove the brackets from the rubber holders.

Rear wheel speed sensor

We install the sensor in the reverse order.

REMOVAL OF PARKING BRAKE SYSTEM ELEMENTS

We remove the floor tunnel lining (see “Removing the floor tunnel lining”, p. 145). Move the parking brake lever to its lowest position. Disconnect the end of the parking brake cable from the rear brake shoe lever (see “Replacing the rear wheel brake pads,” p. 118).





Removing the brake pad with lever manual drive rear pads.

Use a screwdriver to pry up and remove the clamp securing the parking brake cable sheath to the brake shield.

Using a 12mm socket, unscrew one bolt securing the parking brake cable bracket to trailing arm pendants...

...and one bolt to the spar.

We release the cable from under the bracket on the underbody.

In the cabin, use a 12mm wrench to unscrew the adjusting nut...

...and release the end of the cable, leading it through the slot of the equalizer.

Remove the rear seat cushion (see “Removing the rear seat”, p. 145), disconnect the three plastic clips of the floor mat and fold back the mat.

Using a “12” socket, unscrew the two bolts of the bracket securing both parking brake cables to the floor.

We remove the tip of the cable sheath...

...from a bracket in the floor...

... and take it out through the hole in the underbody.

Similarly, we dismantle the other parking brake cable. To remove the parking brake lever, remove the floor tunnel lining (see “Removing the floor tunnel lining,” p. 145).

Disconnect the parking brake lever limit switch wire block.

Using a 12mm socket, unscrew the three bolts securing the lever to the floor...

...and remove the lever. We assemble and install the elements of the parking brake system in the reverse order. We adjust the parking brake (see “Adjusting the parking brake,” p. 35).

Replacing the rear pads on an Accent is quite simple, but you need to know a few tricks and the sequence of work. On cars they are placed in front disc brakes, and behind the drums. The latter have significantly lower efficiency, but high efficiency is not needed there. Rear brakes take on about 30% of the load when braking, and also work when parking the car. But you still need to change the pads - for some, every 10 thousand km, and for others, every 100 thousand km. Everything is individual and depends on many parameters.

What spare parts are needed?

And now in more detail about how to replace the rear pads on a Hyundai Accent yourself. It will take a little time, but you will have to work hard, since disassembling the nodes can be difficult. First, it’s worth mentioning the original spare parts that you need to buy:

  1. The Sangsin pads themselves are a set with part number SA046.
  2. The numbers for the pad clearance adjusters are 5837025000 for the right side and 5835025000 for the left side.
  3. There are also two supply mechanisms, numbers 5836624000 and 5835624000 (right and left, respectively).
  4. TRW repair kit, part number SFK358.

Tools required for work

In addition, when replacing the rear brake pads on an Accent, you will need the following tools:

  1. Jack.
  2. Head on "21".
  3. Supports.
  4. A set of keys.
  5. Pliers.

Please note that drums may need to be replaced - this must be done visual inspection their condition. To save money, you can not bet original spare parts, and analogues are several times cheaper, but the quality is almost the same.

Removing the pads

When replacing rear pads on an Accent, be sure to remember the location of all the springs, otherwise the mechanism will not work correctly.

  1. Raise the car with a jack and place it on a support.
  2. Unscrew the wheel nuts.
  3. Remove the drum. If this cannot be done, then you need to screw two bolts into the holes located on it.
  4. Use pliers to remove all springs.
  5. Both pads have springs with washers; they keep the elements from moving. Press down on the washer and carefully rotate it to remove the stud.
  6. Now you can remove both pads. One can be dismantled without problems, the second has a handbrake cable installed.

To make replacing the rear pads on the Accent faster, it is recommended to loosen the handbrake cable. To do this, remove the decorative plastic covering the cable in the cabin, after which the nut is loosened.

Installing new pads and adjusting the handbrake

Installation of new elements is carried out in reverse order. It should be noted that the handbrake is adjusted automatically - just squeeze it a few times.

What nuances might there be when replacing the rear pads on an Accent? If you look closely, there is quite a lot:

  1. Often, a set of pads does not contain springs; you have to buy them separately. The first part of the article indicates the batch numbers of the products.
  2. Also, the plates that make adjustments often fail hand brake. It is best to install a new set, otherwise problems with setting up the mechanism will inevitably arise.
  3. The braking efficiency directly depends on the condition of the drums. If the excavation is large enough, it will be necessary to replace the elements and carry out their grooving and balancing.

If your car has beautiful wheel disks, then why spoil appearance drum brakes? It will be much better if you install disk ones. But in this case you will have to mount hydraulic drive handbrake Thanks to such legal tuning, the safety of the car and its appearance increase.

Today we will change the rear brake pads, brake drums, and also adjust the handbrake to . A video lesson will help us with this work.

The process of replacing brake pads and drums on a Hyundai Accent

1. In order to remove the drums, you first need to loosen the handbrake. It loosens under the plastic console. The plastic is attached with two screws. You can see the location in the picture below.

2. Using a key set to twelve, loosen the handbrake.

3. We dismantle the wheel.

4. Take a shaped screwdriver and unscrew the two screws.

5. Gently tap brake disk, and shoot.

6. We disassemble the brake mechanism and remove the tension springs. I advise you to take a couple of photos before disassembling. Then you can put everything back together without any problems.

8. Remove the pads by pulling them to the sides.

The left block contains the handbrake cable; the cable must be removed separately.

9. Let's start installing new pads.

The left block with the metal piece for the handbrake should be inside. I advise you to remember how you removed it and put it back, only with a new block.

10. Take pliers and install the handbrake cable into the left block.

11. Take the right block, install it, and fix it with a “soldier”.

12. We return to the left block and install the mechanism as shown in the photo below.

And the side that goes into the right block.

13. We secure the left block with a “soldier”.

16. We adjust the handbrake.

We tighten the handbrake and try to rotate the wheel. The cable must be tensioned so that the wheel rotates easily, but at the same time, when you tighten the handbrake, the car is stationary.

17. Tighten the plastic on the handbrake and the work is finished. Any questions write in the comments.

Be sure to change the pads on the same axis.

The handbrake adjustment should be made only after replacing the pads on both wheels.

Check the condition of the rubber bands on the brake pistons.

What rear pads should I put on a Hyundai Accent?

Number of original pads: 58305-25A00.

Number of original brake drums: 58411-25010.

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