IN this photo the report shows in detail how with your own hands produce cleaning the VVT-i filter on Toyota Vitz engine 1NZ-FXE or how to rinse the VVT phase distribution system filter on Toyota Vitz. This filter can be either part or stand separately in the engine block. So, if you pointed out that the system filter is dirty, then of course you need to clean it and the machine will run as before.
System VVT-I(hereinafter referred to as VVTi) has long been installed on all modern engines, not only Toyota, but also other car brands. Its essence is to shift the valve timing so that throughout the entire speed range, the engine produces maximum power. At proper operation VVTI at the bottom and at the top the engine produces more power than the same engine with a disabled or faulty VVTI. This phase distribution system is very important, to the point that if it malfunctions, the brakes on some cars disappear, and some spontaneously accelerate.
An indirect way to determine the performance of the VVTI is to keep the engine running for Idling remove the connector from the VVTI valve; if the speed has not changed, it means that the VVTI is not working. If they have changed, it means it may be working.
This is what the filter looks like in normal condition.
A necessary tool.
Cleaning products that we will need. Grease remover Shumanit.
Or domestically produced.
To gain access to the filter, remove the housing air filter, we disconnect all the wires and tubes there (the wires to the VVTI valve, to the gas vapor recovery valve and the evaporation tube), so as not to interfere with unscrewing, we put them aside.
Using a hexagon, unscrew the filter. It is tightened very tightly, it is worth spraying with WD-40. After unscrewing, do not lose the washer-gasket, it is tricky there. It’s not a fact that it’s right to reuse it, but I don’t have another one, and the old one works properly.
Take out the filter. It is made in the form of a mesh in a plastic case, inserted into a metal bolt, and removed together. Sometimes (as they write) the mesh remains in the hole, then remove it from there with tweezers. This is how we had this filter (view from both sides).
As you can see, it is concretely coked.
How the VVT system works
In continuation of the article about, we will consider the remaining systems and components of the 4G15 and 4G18 engines.
CVVT
CVVT-Continuous valve timing control system.
How the VVT system works
The phase control system is designed to change the valve timing. The air sucked into the cylinders during engine operation has inertia, and after the end of the compression stroke continues to flow into the cylinder. If you delay the closing of the intake valve at this point, more air will enter the cylinder and its filling will be more efficient.
Accordingly, the longer the intake valve delay, the better the engine performance will be at high speed, when it is the speed and quantitative component of filling the cylinders that is important.
In contrast, closing the intake valve earlier improves low-speed performance.
Anticipation process
1. Lag chamber
2. Locking pin
3. Advance chamber
4. Rotor blade
5. Bracket
Under normal operating conditions oil pump creates pressure motor oil supplied to the CVVT solenoid valve. The control unit controls the VVT valve using pulse width modulation (PWM).
If the ECM needs to adjust the CVVT mechanism to maximum angle advance the opening of the intake valves, then solenoid valve the system opens 100%. At this moment, oil under pressure enters the advance chamber, the VVT rotor blades move in the direction opposite direction of rotation crankshaft , and remain in the maximum advance position.
At idle, the VVT mechanism remains at an angle of about 8°. And since the mechanical opening angle of the intake valve is 5°, when idling inlet valve actually opens at an angle of 13°.
Lag process
Similar to the advance process. Only at maximum delay does the solenoid valve open to 0%. At this moment, oil under pressure enters the retard chamber, the VVT rotor blades move in the direction of rotation of the crankshaft, and remain in the maximum retard position.
CVVT System Components
1. CVVT drive
2. Control valve-solenoid
3. Control valve filter
Logic of CVVT operation
CVVT is controlled by a command from the engine ECU to the solenoid valve. In this case, the control cycle also uses the PCV sensor and the camshaft position sensor.
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Flushing report oil filter VVT-i
For some reason unknown to me, the would-be moderators of the photo hosting site deleted the entire album.
To hell with them, download the entire file in Word format: Oil filter flushing report VVT.docTheoretical digression.
The VVT-I system (hereinafter referred to as VVTI) has been installed on all Toyota engines for a long time. Its essence is to shift the valve timing so that the engine produces maximum power throughout the entire speed range. With proper operation of the VVTI at the bottom and at the top, the engine produces more power than the same engine with the VVTI disconnected/faulty.
This VVTI is very important, to the point that when it malfunctions, the brakes on some cars disappear, and some spontaneously accelerate and try to crash into a wall.
For the Prius, with its Atkinson cycle, VVTI is of course extremely important. Also, VVTI works with constant engine starts/stops; its inadequate operation leads to the fact that the car stops stalling or jerks when stopping/starting.
The VVTI system consists of a VVTI valve, through which the on-board computer. controls the movement of oil in the VVTI system and the sprocket on intake camshaft, which directly changes the duration of the intake phase depending on the pressure and direction of oil movement in the VVTI system. There is a mesh filter in front of the VVTI valve so that any kind of valve does not jam. Between these elements - of course - thin oil channels. For details about VVTI, see the Avtodata website, well written, with graphs, diagrams and drawings)).
Using bad oil or an untimely change, dirt from the oil settles on the filter mesh, clogs it completely, oil stops flowing into the VVTI mechanism, it freezes in the middle position, like the car does not have a VVTI, and the Prius jerks when starting/stopping, consumption increases, dynamics decreases. There may also be deposits in the valve, jamming it in one position. They can be in the cavities of the VVTI star mechanism, limiting their movements and. thereby disrupting the valve timing. All this leads to the same shaking.
Please note that I am not claiming that this is the only reason for 1NZ-FXE’s St. Vitus’ dance, but one of many that probably deserves a separate FAQ-style article.
Now - what to do about it. Everything is as usual, dirty - clean, broken - replace.Practical part.
Cleaning the oil strainer.
This is what it looks like correct filter, we will strive for this result:Devices and materials.
To disassemble, we will need 10 keys/sockets and a 6 hexagon (purchased at Automag for 19 rubles). I also have a kind of bit holder handle, like a screwdriver, that also helped.To clean the varnish deposits on the mesh, I used this household chemical - Shumanit grease remover (Israel), it costs about 250 rubles per bottle, by the way, it’s a terribly effective thing, it removes carbon deposits from stoves in one go, your wife will thank you for it.
Instead of Schumanite, you can use this Russian remedy, also works well, and costs 5 times less.
Those who wish can, of course, wash with kerosene or carb cleaner, but KMK, their effectiveness is much lower.
Progress:
In a 1nz engine the filter is located on the left, below cylinder head covers, immediately below the VVT-i valve.To access the filter, remove the air filter housing, disconnect all the wires and tubes there (wires to the VVTI valve, to the gasoline vapor recovery valve and the evaporation tube), so as not to interfere with unscrewing, put them aside.
Unscrew the filter using a hexagon. It's tightened very tightly, it's worth spraying with VeDeshka. After unscrewing, do not lose the washer-gasket, it is tricky there. It’s not a fact that it’s right to reuse it, but I don’t have another one, and the old one works properly.
We take out the filter. It is made in the form of a mesh in a plastic case, inserted into a metal bolt, and removed together. Sometimes (as they write) the mesh remains in the hole, then remove it from there with tweezers. This is how I had this filter (view from both sides).
As you can see, the filter was very dirty, even water practically did not pass through it, which means that the VVTI mechanism practically did not work. By the way, an indirect way to determine the performance of the VVTI is to remove the connector from the VVTI valve with the engine running and idling; if the speed has not changed, it means that the VVTI is not working. If they have changed, it means it may be working .
In general, put the filter in a vessel and fill it with schumanite, leave for 20 minutes.Afterwards, wash off the eaten away dirt with water and see the result.
And to the light:
As you can see, the result is already there, about 50% has been washed off. We repeat the procedure with schumanite for another 20-30 minutes. We rinse. The result is a 100% pure filter.
When viewed through the light, you can see that the mesh has been completely cleaned, inside and out.
Now you can dry it and install it in place. Tighten it as tightly as it was, check with the engine running to see if oil is leaking, you can check it again in a day. I was fine the first time. A week later - done control check, out of curiosity, if anything was jammed. Result - ideal condition(see first photo).
The valve also belongs to the VVTI, I could not remove it, it was firmly stuck there. Because a new one costs 1,500 rubles, and the old one seems to be working, so it was decided not to touch it for now. There is information on the Internet about how one car enthusiast had to break off an electromagnet from a valve, and use a special device welded from a screw to pick out the valve itself in order to replace it with a new one. They also write that fuel oil and tar can accumulate in the VVTI sprocket housing, limiting the range of valve timing adjustment. I'll go there some other time, when cylinder head gasket I'll buy it.
While I’m thinking about washing all the oil channels with Shell Helix Ultra Extra oil, they write that it actually cleans well. And with the help of slow flushes before changing the oil, on which you can drive 100-200 km (I saw one at Liqui Molly, Lavr).
Results:
VVTI earned. I didn’t notice a change in traction at the bottom, but at the top there was a noticeable increase in power by 10-15% (it felt like it). After 80 km/h the dynamics became better. The car began to drive at a speed of 90-100 km/h with a consumption of slightly less than 5 l/100 km. Previously it was more than 5 l/100km. It started stalling (otherwise it stopped completely before.) Well, unexpected by-effect– the shaking has stopped when starting and stopping when warm, it stalls and starts very smoothly. To be fair, it should be noted that it shakes quite occasionally, but I think this is due to spark plugs, coils, and dirty injectors. Everything has its time.I hope this creation will be useful to someone.
Sibirsky_Kot.
Flushing Filter Vvt-I, Photo report.
Washing the VVT-i filter, photo report.
VVT-i Oil Filter Flushing Report
For some reason unknown to me, the would-be photo hosting moderators deleted the entire album.
To hell with them, download the entire file in Word format: Oil filter flushing report VVT.doc
The VVT-I system (hereinafter referred to as VVTI) has been installed on all Toyota engines for a long time. Its essence is to shift the valve timing so that the engine produces maximum power throughout the entire speed range. With proper operation of the VVTI at the bottom and at the top, the engine produces more power than the same engine with the VVTI disconnected/faulty.
This IVTI is very important. to the point that when it malfunctions, the brakes on some cars disappear. and some spontaneously accelerate and strive to crash into the wall.
For the Prius, with its Atkinson cycle, VVTI is of course extremely important. Also, VVTI works with constant engine starts/stops; its inadequate operation leads to the fact that the car stops stalling or jerks when stopping/starting.
The VVTI system consists of a VVTI valve, through which the on-board computer. controls the movement of oil in the VVTI system and the sprocket on the intake camshaft, which directly changes the duration of the intake phase depending on the pressure and direction of oil movement in the VVTI system. There is a mesh filter in front of the VVTI valve so that any kind of valve does not jam. Between these elements there are, of course, thin oil channels. For details about VVTI, see the Avtodata website, well written, with graphs, diagrams and drawings)).
When using bad oil or untimely change, dirt from the oil settles on the filter mesh, clogs it completely, oil stops flowing into the VVTI mechanism, it freezes in the middle position, like the car does not have a VVTI, and the Prius jerks when starting/stopping, consumption increases, decreases dynamics. There may also be deposits in the valve, jamming it in one position. They can be in the cavities of the VVTI star mechanism, limiting their movements and. thereby disrupting the valve timing. All this leads to the same shaking.
Please note that I am not claiming that this is the only reason for 1NZ-FXE’s St. Vitus’ dance, but one of many that probably deserves a separate FAQ-style article.
Now - what to do about it. Everything is as usual, dirty - clean, broken - replace.
Cleaning the oil strainer.
This is what the correct filter looks like, and this is the result we will strive for:
Devices and materials.
To disassemble, we will need 10 keys/sockets and a 6 hexagon (purchased at Automag for 19 rubles). I also have a bit holder handle, like a screwdriver, that also helped.
To clean the varnish deposits on the mesh, I used this household chemical - Shumanit grease remover (Israel), it costs about 250 rubles per bottle, by the way, it’s a terribly effective thing, it removes carbon deposits from stoves in one go, your wife will thank you for it.
Instead of Schumanite, you can use this Russian product, it also works well, and costs 5 times less.
Those who wish can, of course, wash with kerosene or carb cleaner, but KMK, their effectiveness is much lower.
On a 1nz engine, the filter is located on the left, below the cylinder head cover, just below the VVT-i valve.
To access the filter, remove the air filter housing, disconnect all the wires and tubes there (wires to the VVTI valve, to the gasoline vapor recovery valve and the evaporation tube), so as not to interfere with unscrewing, put them aside.
Unscrew the filter using a hexagon. It's tightened very tightly, it's worth spraying with VeDeshka. After unscrewing, do not lose the washer-gasket, it is tricky there. It’s not a fact that it’s right to reuse it, but I don’t have another one, and the old one works properly.
We take out the filter. It is made in the form of a mesh in a plastic case, inserted into a metal bolt, and removed together. Sometimes (as they write) the mesh remains in the hole, then remove it from there with tweezers. This is how I had this filter (view from both sides).
As you can see, the filter was very dirty, even water practically did not pass through it, which means that the VVTI mechanism practically did not work. By the way, an indirect way to determine the performance of the VVTI is to remove the connector from the VVTI valve with the engine running and idling; if the speed has not changed, it means that the VVTI is not working. If they have changed, it means it may be working .
In general, put the filter in a vessel and fill it with schumanite, leave for 20 minutes.
Afterwards, wash off the eaten away dirt with water. look at the result.
As you can see, the result is already there, about 50% has been washed off. We repeat the procedure with schumanite for another 20-30 minutes. We rinse. The result is a 100% pure filter.
When viewed through the light, you can see that the mesh has been completely cleaned, inside and out.
Now you can dry it and put it back in place. Tighten it as tightly as it was, check with the engine running to see if oil is leaking, you can check it again in a day. I was fine the first time. A week later, I did a control check, out of curiosity, to see if anything had built up. The result is perfect condition (see first photo).
The valve also belongs to the VVTI, I could not remove it, it was firmly stuck there. Because a new one costs 1,500 rubles, and the old one seems to be working, so it was decided not to touch it for now. There is information on the Internet about how one car enthusiast had to break off an electromagnet from a valve, and use a special device welded from a screw to pick out the valve itself in order to replace it with a new one. They also write that fuel oil and tar can accumulate in the VVTI sprocket housing, limiting the range of valve timing adjustment. I'll go there some other time, when I buy a cylinder head gasket.
While I’m thinking about washing all the oil channels with Shell Helix Ultra Extra oil, they write that it actually cleans well. And with the help of slow flushes before changing the oil, on which you can drive 100-200 km (I saw one at Liqui Molly, Lavr).
VVTI earned. I didn’t notice a change in traction at the bottom, but at the top there was a noticeable increase in power by 10-15% (it felt like it). After 80 km/h the dynamics became better. The car began to drive at a speed of 90-100 km/h with a consumption of slightly less than 5 l/100 km. Previously it was more than 5 l/100km. It started stalling (or something else it stopped completely before.) Well, an unexpected side effect - the shaking stopped when starting and stopping when it was hot, it stalls and starts very smoothly. To be fair, it should be noted that it shakes quite occasionally, but... I think this is due to spark plugs, coils, dirty injectors. Everything has its time.
I hope this creation will be useful to someone.