For ignition air-fuel mixture combustion of both carburetor and injection engines, required high voltage coil ignition VAZ. The emergence of fundamentally new engine power systems led to changes in ignition systems. Gone are things of the past, or as they were also called “distributors”. Instead, new devices appeared, such as the VAZ 2114 ignition module.

PRINCIPLE OF OPERATION OF THE MODULES

The module is an improved engine starting system. The principle of its operation is not very different from conventional systems. If in older systems the high-voltage voltage was generated by opening the contacts in the ignition distributor, then in the module the signals from the control unit serve as a pulse generator.

The control unit collects signals from sensors on the engine, generates a control pulse and sends it to the ignition module. In it, a high-voltage voltage is generated from the voltage of the on-board network and sent to the cylinder spark plug to ignite the air-fuel mixture.

MODULE DEVICE

In two coils, the main task of which is to generate high voltage. A two-channel electronic switch helps them in this. All these parts are contained in a housing made of durable plastic. The housing has a low-voltage connector for connecting the supply voltage and supplying control pulses. There are also connection leads that connect to the spark plugs.

The figure shows an electrical diagram of the VAZ 2114 starting system. As can be seen from the figure, it consists of:

1. Battery;
2. Ignition switch;
3. Relay that turns on the ignition;
4. Hall Sensor;
5. Semiconductor signal receiver from the sensor;
6. Electronic switch;
7. Ignition module.
8. High voltage terminals.

Also on electrical diagram the fuses of the power supply circuits of the electronic units are shown. Let's try to look at the device and operating principle of the ignition coil. As already noted, there are two of them in the block; they are identical in design. The ignition coil circuits of one and the other are also absolutely identical. The principle of operation of the ignition coil remains the same. Both consist of cores made of electrical steel. Two windings are wound on them. One of them is low-voltage, and the second produces high-voltage voltage to ignite the working mixture.

The ignition coil is made in such a way that one end of the low-voltage winding is connected to the supply voltage, and the other end of these windings is connected to a transistor generator. Each coil has its own transistor. The high-voltage leads are connected directly to the spark plugs; each winding supplies energy to two spark plugs. One of them outputs pulses to cylinders 1 and 4, and the second to cylinders 2 and 3.

The wires on the ignition module are arranged as follows. Contacts A and B receive control pulses from the electronic switch, pin D receives power from the machine’s on-board network. The terminal marked with the letter C is connected to the vehicle ground.

WHERE TO FIND THIS MODULE

It is hard to believe that the driver who undertakes to check or repair this device does not know where it is located. Well, for those who don’t know, we’ll tell you. It’s easy to find it, find at least one high voltage wire, and walk your hand along it from the spark plug to the plastic case that belongs to the module.

From the picture its location becomes clearer.

WHAT ARE THE FOLLOWING SIGNS OF MALFUNCTIONS?

When asked what are the signs of a malfunction in the VAZ 2114 ignition module, any driver will say without hesitation that there is no spark at the spark plugs. This is partially true, but there are a few more possible reasons failure of this device. You can see the following:

• The dynamics disappeared during acceleration, failures appeared in the engine operation when sharp pressing on the gas pedal to gain speed;
• A decrease in engine power has become noticeable; drivers say in such cases that the engine does not “pull”;
• Idling floats a lot;
• There is no spark on one of the pairs of spark plugs.

When signs of a malfunction of the ignition coil appear, the check should begin with the spark plugs, which do not work, then, last of all, the module is checked.

HOW TO CHECK THE SYSTEM FOR OPERATION

In any case, the check begins with the candles. To do this, they need to be removed from their nests. This is also easy to do. Remove the tips of the high-voltage wires from them and, using a wrench for turning out the spark plugs, remove them from their places.

Next comes their inspection, cleaning and testing. They must have a worker Brown color, in the absence of soot and soot. If their presence is observed, then there may be wear on the pistons and rings. In any case, check and, if necessary, set the gap between the electrodes. After this you can check their functionality

There are special probes for these purposes. “Craftsmen” manage to make such products themselves from a piezo lighter. If nothing like this is available, then check it on the engine. It’s good if there’s a car nearby with a known working system launch. This will make it possible to make an accurate diagnosis for candles. If they are in good condition, the search continues further.

Many publications recommend checking for the presence of high voltage voltage at the terminals of the device. Doing this in a garage is problematic due to the lack of special measuring instrument. A conventional tester is used here, since it cannot measure several tens of kilovolts of high voltage. If you have experience as a radio amateur, you can assemble a voltage divider.

Checking for the presence of high voltage is dangerous due to a possible sensitive electric shock, so we will touch on other methods. Let's talk about how you can determine ignition coil malfunctions and check this system:

1. The most simple method The unit will be replaced with a working device. It is not always possible, since not all drivers carry this device with them in reserve;
2. They also advise, which has been tested many times, to move the device while the motor is running. If changes are noticeable, they indicate poor contact inside the device. Sometimes it's fixable;
3. Check with a tester or multimeter in mode. The resistance of the paired terminals of the coils, 1 and 4, as well as 2 and 3, is measured. It should be identical for both windings and equal to approximately 5.4 kOhm.

PREVENTION OF THE SYSTEM

With all high reliability electronic devices, breakdowns still happen. Sometimes they can be avoided if you carry out at least occasional inspection and maintenance of the elements of this system:

• Avoid confusion with high voltage wires if they are internal resistance increases greatly, this may damage the coils;
• Check the gap between the electrodes of the spark plugs, since too large a spark gap also negatively affects the device.

ABOUT THE POSSIBILITIES OF MODULE REPAIR

Most breakdowns of this device lead to its replacement, but sometimes it is possible to repair the ignition coil to return it to service. This is especially true in cases where moving or tapping changes the behavior of the motor. If you have the ability to use a soldering iron and a multimeter, you can try to get it back into operation.

You need to remove the metal back cover, under which the electrical parts of the module are filled. You need to try to carefully get rid of the silicone and its “insides” will be revealed to your eyes. Find broken or “bad” contacts and solder them.

The conductors in the block are aluminum, so special solder is needed to solder them.

After this, close the back cover and check its functionality. If the repair result is positive, you need to open it again and fill the inside with silicone.

If the result is negative, then the block must be replaced. True, owners with extensive amateur radio experience continue to “dig” further. You can try replacing electronic switches. Basically, these two elements become the culprits of engine starting system failures.

CHANGING THE IGNITION SYSTEM MODULE

When repairing the ignition module does not give positive results, all that remains is to look for and install new device. Most mechanics recommend choosing a “GM” device as a very reliable product. Its cost is different regions varies, but close to 2000 rubles. Replacing the ignition module can be done independently, there are no special features, and no special devices are needed. For work, prepare:

1. Ignition unit for replacement;
2. Key to "13";
3. Rags.

The work can easily be done in a garage or on level ground. Work order:

1. Open the hood engine compartment and disconnect the terminals battery. It is quite enough to remove the terminal only from the negative side.
2. After that we take it out high voltage wires from their installation locations. You need to remember where which wire was located. If you doubt your abilities, make marks. Wires cannot be swapped. Can I have a new one? spare part Destroy.
3. At the next stage, carefully disconnect the connector with wires from the module. Use the key set to “13”, which unscrews the three nuts securing the device to the motor.
4. When the nuts are removed, the device is removed from the engine.

Now they use rags to wipe the installation area and around it. Carefully inspect the new device and begin installing it. It is carried out in the reverse order to removal. Once again I would like to remind you of the importance of installing high-voltage wires in their places. If difficulties still arise, then take another look at the block. It shows the numbers of high-voltage wires.

Numbers – the order of arrangement of explosive wires in the module

It should be noted that on sale you can still find old-style ignition modules that do not have wire numbers marked on the high-voltage terminals. If you purchased just such a device, be careful when installing it.

Each of us knows that to ignite fuel-air mixture A spark is needed in the combustion chamber. The latter is formed precisely due to the operation of the ignition system. Its design is different cars has some differences, but its basic operating principle remains unchanged. And today we will talk about how to check the ignition module of the VAZ-2114, as well as how to replace it with your own hands.

Characteristic

This element of the car is a complex electrical device, the main purpose of which is to generate current and transfer it to the spark plug. In total, two types of modules are used on cars - with one coil for each spark plug (separate) or for two at once (block). The VAZ ignition module (2114 Lada) is of a block type. Such elements include a two-spark coil. The design of this part requires the following components:

• Low voltage terminals.
• High voltage output.
• Iron plate core.
• Primary and secondary windings.

Single-spark analogues have a slightly different design, which includes:

• Core.
• High voltage connections via spring contact.
• A candle.
• External terminal for low voltage.
• Secondary and primary winding.

Unlike single-spark coils, such coils are easier to install due to their special (block) design, which has a common body. Despite the fact that there are several such elements in the block, they all work as independent devices. This design makes it possible to use a shortened conductor that goes to the primary winding of the mechanism.

VAZ-2114 - malfunctions

ABOUT malfunction This system can be judged by the following characteristics. Firstly, failures in the vehicle when accelerating can indicate coil malfunctions. Secondly, this can manifest itself in a significant loss of machine power, as well as in “floating” idle speed engine. And thirdly, incorrect operation is indicated by non-working cylinders 1-4 or 2-3.

It should be noted that such symptoms very often occur due to a faulty mass air flow sensor, or therefore, first of all, we look at their performance, and only then we diagnose the ignition module.

VAZ-2114: where is this part located?

On cars of the Lada Samara-2 family, this element is located in the engine compartment.

The easiest way to detect it is to find one end that goes to the spark plugs, and the other goes to the ignition module itself.

How to diagnose the operation of the module?

Checking the ignition module (VAZ-2114 "Samara-2") for functionality is performed in the following sequence. First, we take out the negative one and then take out the electrical wiring from the coil mechanism. Next, unscrew all the screws and bolts that secure the element body. Further all work (as before) is carried out with the engine turned off. We disconnect the module assembly and use a multimeter to measure the total resistance level between the terminals of the contact connector. Then we compare the results with the tabular standards indicated in the operating manual. If the obtained data differs significantly from the table ones to a lesser extent, it means that a circuit has occurred in the machine and the coil has malfunctioned.

After establishing the continuity of the wires, you can begin diagnosing the secondary circuit of the internal combustion engine - measuring the resistance level between the ignition terminals. Based on the measurement results, we draw conclusions, and if the fault was hidden in the coil, then the module must be completely replaced. There are no other solutions to this problem.

How to replace the device yourself? Tools

First, we need to prepare a set of keys that we will use. During the work of removing and installing the ignition module, we will need two by 13 and 17 millimeters, as well as one open-end wrench by “10”. We will need the latter in order to remove the terminal from the battery. In addition, you should prepare a hexagon at “5”. Using the latter, we will release the ignition module from the holder during dismantling.

Part removal process

So, how is the ignition module of a VAZ 2114 Lada replaced? First you need to turn off the power on-board network car. To do this, as in the previous case, remove the negative terminal from the battery (if it has not already been removed before). Next you need to remove the decorative trim of the engine. This can be done by unscrewing the oil filler cap. It is worth noting that this operation is used only by owners of VAZs with a 1.6-liter engine. One and a half liter Samaras are not equipped with such an engine cover.

At the next stage, remove the block with wires and high-voltage wires from the module. Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the two engine crankcase mounting bolts, and with a 17mm wrench, unscrew the last fastening of the module. Further this part calmly extracted from engine compartment out. The module itself is released from the holder using a 5 mm hexagon.

Installation

Before you install new element into the car, you should connect the high-voltage wires in advance according to the module diagram. You also need to pay attention to the quality of the fasteners - excess oxidation and dirt are thoroughly cleaned at the ends at the joints.

Next, the ignition module of the VAZ 2114 Lada can be safely installed on staff position. The element is assembled in the reverse order. After the ignition module has been connected, the VAZ-2114 needs to be started and the functionality of the parts checked. If all of the above symptoms of malfunctions have disappeared, then you have done everything correctly.

Conclusion

So, we found out what an ignition module is and how to replace it yourself. Finally, we note that when connecting, it is important to ensure that the entire wiring circuit is connected correctly, since when the slightest mistake It will be impossible to guarantee the functionality of the parts of this system.

The ignition module is a fairly stable unit, and problems with it occur quite rarely.

Characteristic signs, by which you can understand that the device has failed are the following:

• Complete absence or “floating” speed power unit on ;
• Problems with the operation of the engine cylinders - only two out of four work: 1-4 or 2-3;
• Loss of traction when accelerating the car;
• The “CheckEngine” indicator lights up.

From this article you will learn how to start ignition at home, how it is repaired and replaced, and what tools are needed for this.

PURPOSE OF THE IGNITION MODULE VAZ 2114

The ignition module is complex electronic device, which performs the function of converting electricity coming from the generator into current (30 kW), and distributing it between the spark plugs.

The unit produces a spark to two spark plugs, which are connected to the cylinders of the power unit, to spark plugs 1 and 4 of cylinders - an idle spark, to spark plugs 2 and 3 - a working one. The period of spark supply is calculated by the electronic on-board control of the fourteenth; it occurs when the ignition stroke of the fuel in the cylinder is on.

The device itself, for normal operation the module needs constant food power 12 Volt.

The unit consists of 2 high-voltage transformers, each of which is connected to blocks electronic control and VP (high voltage wires). The dimensions of the device are quite compact - 11 * 11.7 * 7 centimeters, it weighs 1.32 kilograms.

The cost of the device varies from 1500 to 3000 rubles. In the lowest price category products from Chinese OEM manufacturers are presented, the service life of which is unpredictable - they can either work for several hundred thousand kilometers without any breakdowns, or begin to act up just a few months after purchase.

Reviews from the owners of the fourteenth show that the most reliable and durable devices are from Bosch. A good option– BoschM7.9.7, which is also suitable for the VAZ 2115.

IGNITION MODULE CHECKING TECHNOLOGY

IN service centers and at service stations, the ignition module is checked using special device– an oscilloscope, but we offer you more simple technology, giving similar results.

Check using a regular tester (12 volt light bulb) and a multimeter - a device for checking ignition coils, which can be purchased at any auto shop for 300-500 rubles.

Before proceeding with the device itself, it is necessary to check the fuse and the wiring by which the unit is connected to the spark plugs and the generator.

The fuse is checked as follows:

1. Disconnect the power wire block;
2. We install one terminal of the multimeter on contact “A”, the second - on engine ground.

If the fuse is working properly, the tester will show a voltage of 12 V. If the voltage is too high or low, the fuse must be replaced.

The easiest way to check the power supply of the unit is with a control unit - we connect its wiring to contacts “A” and “B” and start the fourteenth. When the starter is turned on, the light should light up, otherwise it is necessary to look for problems in the circuit of contacts “A”, there is probably a break in it.

Checking the ignition module with a multimeter requires a device that can perform the functions of an ohmmeter. We put the tester in this mode work and connect the terminals to high voltage wires, going to the first and fourth cylinders, then we check the second and third in the same way. If the module is working properly, the tester will show a resistance of 5.2-5.5 Ohms.

It is worth noting that only the first VAZ 2114 1.5L is equipped with the module, while modern fourteenth ones are produced with. Essentially, this is the same module, in the body of which there is no switch (it has been moved, so checking the VAZ 2114 ignition coil is performed using a similar technology.

WE MAKE THE REPLACEMENT WITH OUR OWN HANDS

Ignition of the fourteenth is a dubious task, since once a device fails, it will continue to “delight” you in the future, so it is much easier to install a new, normally functioning unit. Moreover, it is impossible to do a complete repair of the unit with your own hands - you will need to go to a service station.

Removing the ignition module is carried out as follows:

1. Remove the “-” terminal from the battery;
2. Unscrew the tips of the spark plugs;
3. Disconnect the block from the LV module power wires;
4. We remove the high-voltage wires - you just need to remove them from the special connectors;
5. Unscrew the bolts that secure the bracket holding the unit on the crankcase of the fourteenth engine;
6. We dismantle the assembly together with the bracket;
7. Disconnect the device from the bracket.

To do everything yourself you will need 13 and 17 keys, a screwdriver and a set of hex keys. Knowing how to ignition, it will take 1-2 hours to identify faults and, if necessary, replace the unit.

In order to find out how to check the ignition module on the fourteenth, you need to understand in general what the ignition module affects and why its flawless operation is so important. It is clear that this unit is complex in its design, an interweaving of electrics and technology in the literal sense of the word. This device is designed to create a sufficiently high voltage current, which is then transmitted to the spark plugs. This current is the basis of ignition, thanks to difficult work module, the fuel burns, the engine starts running, the car starts moving. There are two types of such devices on VAZs: they come with coils through which current flows, separate for each spark plug, and there are one for a pair of spark plugs – block ones. On the fourteenth recent years They already set the block type. And such a coil, which distributes a spark to a couple of spark plugs at once, consists of the following parts:

• Low voltage terminals
• BB wires
• Core
• Winding – primary and secondary

Those coils that distribute a spark to all 4 spark plugs individually differ from block coils in that the explosive wires exit through a spring contact. However, block ones are easier to check, easier to remove and put back. By the way, the unit weighs about one and a half kilograms, and in size it is not that big - 11 by 11 by 7 cm.

That's all you need to know before checking the ignition coil on a VAZ 2114. Of course, it would be good to also understand the system of standard problems that happen to the module: but, in fact, when the engine stalls or the car stalls at idle, this can be anything, including a module. Therefore, checking will never be superfluous.

Many people believe that the explosive wires and the module or any other part that depends on them are different things, and if the explosives fly, then nothing will happen to the module. The opinion is wrong. If the wires are not in order, then current will be generated and flow in the wrong configuration, which can lead to an inaccurate spark and burnout of the ignition module.

How to check?

Checking the VAZ 2114 ignition module begins with preparing the equipment. And the best diagnostician in this case would be a device for checking the ignition module such as an oscilloscope. Unfortunately, not every Russian driver has an idea of ​​what it is, not to mention the ability to use it. Therefore, we focus on the end consumer and use available means:

• 12-volt light bulb or control in common parlance
• Tester, it can be purchased for pennies at any spare parts store

Before touching the module itself, pay attention to its accompanying parts. We start with the wire block, it’s worth disconnecting it and checking the voltage. To do this, we fix the tester terminal on contact A, and throw the other one onto the ground of the sliders. Normal voltage equals 12 V. If it is not there, then the problem is clearly in the fuse. It's a different story with him. Next, along the wires: we throw the tester terminal onto contacts both A and B. We start, the starter starts, the control indicator should ideally blink. If this does not happen, then the problem is a break in the contact circuit A.

Now directly to the ignition module. There are several options for diagnosis:

1. One of the simplest types of diagnostics is to replace a non-working unit with a working one. Of course, for this you need a “donor”. We replaced it, looked at it, and drew conclusions. The only thing that can be an obstacle is that you need an identical unit, that is, a friend with the same car of the same year as yours. Because for 1.5 engines it is the module that is used, and for 1.6 engines only a coil is used. And remember about the working explosive wires, if they fly, then the module is bent because of them. Again, checking BB contacts is a different story.
2. You can do it differently - move the ignition unit. What does this mean: you need to shake the block with contacts, then hit the module and shake it. At this time, the engine itself must be running, because all these actions are necessary in order to see whether its operation will remain flawless when staggering. If not, then again take a closer look at the wiring.
3. Another way: put the tester in working condition ohmmeter. We measure the resistance on the explosive wires that go to cylinders 1 and 4. And then - to 2 and 3. The normal resistance is considered to be from 5.2 to 5.5 Ohms.

Important: the ignition module most often cannot be repaired. Or the repair isn't worth it. It's easier to buy a new one and install it.

You can buy an ignition module for a VAZ 2114 anywhere and anytime, the price is not that steep - from 2,000 to 4,000 thousand rubles, depending on the region and the quality of the unit (manufacturer, new or used). But, if you decide to get confused, then be sure to look at the information on how to check the serviceability of the ignition module.

If you still doubt own strength– the service doors are always open for you. Moreover, the ignition module itself can be of both domestic and foreign production. But, no matter how strange it may sound, a qualified mechanic will most likely use all of the above techniques for the process, because he knows how to check the ignition module on a VAZ 2114. With rare exceptions, you can find someone in the service who will use an oscilloscope. Therefore, ride it once and see how and what is being done. At least some benefit from the time and money spent - clear example for independent garage diagnostics.

The VAZ-2110 was installed at different times different engines, both carburetor and injection. However, regardless of the type of power system and the number of valves (8 or 16), all engines are assembled on the unit base of the old engine 21083 and 21093. The most progressive of these engines is the 16-valve 1.6-liter VAZ 21124 engine with a power of 89 horsepower. Today we will touch on the ignition module for 8-valve engines 2111 and 21114 (1.6 l), check its performance and find suitable replacement failed module.

Version of the module on the 8-valve VAZ-2110

The top ten was equipped with two 8-valve engines of different sizes - 1.5 (2111) and 1.6 liters (21114). The ignition modules for these engines are different.

• One and a half liter engine has a module with article number 2112-3705010,
• and the engine volume 1600 cubes equipped with module 2111-3705010.

A module for a 1.5 liter engine costs about 1500-2100, and the second one is 500 rubles cheaper.

Which is better?

SOATE devices manufactured in Stary Oskol have proven themselves to be the most reliable ignition modules.

Module structure

The module consists of two ignition coils and two high-voltage switch switches.

Inside the module there is a board with radio components and ignition coils filled with compound.

The coil generates a high voltage pulse, and it is a simple transformer with two windings, primary (induction voltage about 500 V) and secondary (induction voltage at least 20 kV). All this is assembled in a single housing, on which there is a connector for signal wires (from the engine control unit) and four terminals for high-voltage wires.

Schematic diagram of the module.

The module operates on the principle of an idle spark - it distributes sparks in pairs to cylinders 1-4 and 2-3 according to impulses transmitted from the ECU.

Malfunctions of ignition modules on the VAZ-2110. DIY diagnostics

The main task of the module is to distribute a high-quality spark sufficient to ignite the working mixture.

If this does not happen, problems begin with the motor:

• power drop;
• high gasoline consumption;
• failures during acceleration;
• unstable idle speed;
• engine failure when starting.

Signs

• If one of the module coils completely fails, then two cylinders are not working . This is clearly visible even to the naked eye - the engine is feverish at idle, starting is difficult, sky-high fuel consumption, loss of dynamics.
• To exclude all other components of the ignition system, make sure that the spark plugs are in working order. To do this, unscrew them and check the spark on each of the spark plugs by cranking the engine with the starter and placing the spark plug with the high-voltage wire on the head so that the body (threaded part) of the spark plug touches the engine mass. If there is no spark or it is weak, replace the spark plug with one that is known to work.
• If this doesn't lead to anything, checking high voltage wires . Thus, we will exclude spark plugs, caps and high-voltage wires from the list of non-working elements. Next we will check the ignition module.

How to check the ignition module?

1. First of all, we carefully inspect the module body. There should be no chips, burns or cracks on its surface. A module with a damaged housing is replaced without any hassle.
2. If the spark is unstable only on cylinders 1-4 or 2-3, one of the module coils is probably damaged. In any case, we will conduct a comprehensive check of the device. For this we will need regular multimeter .

Multimeter for checking the ignition module.

Diagnostic procedure

The diagnostic procedure can be as follows:

1. Disconnect the connector with signal wires from the module.

   

   Remove the connector from the module by moving the lock slightly and pulling the wire.

2. Turn on the ignition and check the voltage at terminal 15 (central) of the control wire block. The rated voltage is 12 V. A drop or absence of voltage when the battery is charged indicates that the engine control unit does not supply power to the module. This means the reason lies in the ECU.

   

   We check the voltage between pin 15 and the block ground.

3. We remove the high-voltage wires, unscrew the module mounting bots and remove it.
4. We check the resistance of the primary windings of the coils - put the multimeter in resistance measurement mode and take readings from the rightmost and central terminals, then from the leftmost and central terminals. The nominal resistance of the primary windings is approximately 0.5 Ohm.

   

   Scheme for checking the primary windings.

5. We measure the resistance of the secondary windings between terminals 1-4 and 2-3 high-voltage wires. Nominal - 5.4 kOhm. If the readings do not correspond to the nominal value, the coil is not working correctly.

   

   Diagram for checking secondary windings.

6. Check the module for a short circuit. To do this, install one tester probe on the central pin 15, the second on the metal body. The device should show the absence of a short circuit (one or infinity). Otherwise, one of the coils has shorted to the housing.

   

   Scheme for checking the module for short circuit.

Errors

A module malfunction can also be determined using an error scanner. Error codes associated with the module are:

• R-3000, R-3001, R-3002, R-3003 and R-3004 - gaps in sparking, the module itself, spark plugs, high-voltage wires or the ECU may be to blame;
• R-0351- the coil of cylinders 1-4 does not work;
• R-0352- the coil of 2-3 cylinders does not work.

The scanner readings do not yet indicate problems with the module itself.

It is possible that the spark plugs are not working or the high-voltage wires are broken, but if we initially diagnosed them, then the fault lies entirely with the ignition module. In this case, we can repair it ourselves, or buy a new one, which is faster, easier and guarantees uninterrupted operation ignition systems. Good luck to everyone, strong spark and good roads!

Video on how to check the ignition module with a multimeter