It's no secret that the reagents on the roads that I use in winter time, negatively affect the body of the car. If a foreign car the body is able to resist rust decades, the same cannot be said about Russian cars. Let's talk about what are ways to eliminate corrosion and subsequent protection of the car body from rust.

Water also contributes to the appearance of rust and this can be clearly seen in regions with a humid climate. For example, if anti-corrosion treatment was not carried out on a VAZ car, then moisture, together with road salt, can leave through rust. As soon as she appears a little, she begins to grow rapidly, so it is advised not to delay, but to immediately get rid of rust. The whole process is quite laborious and therefore some decide to simply hide the rust, which is fundamentally wrong.
A year later, corrosion will reappear and even more forces will be required to remove it.

Corrosion of the body can be of varying severity, and the more it is, the more measures will be directed to its elimination.

Video material:

Ways to remove rust on a car body

The easiest way to get rid of rust- rust converter. This substance converts rust into a no longer harmful compound, as a result, there will be no further growth of corrosion. There are a lot of cans with such a liquid, some write positive reviews and some don't believe in miracles.

Now consider an example when rust on a car body is not the first year and has small swellings or pits. The first step is to prepare the surface for work, thoroughly clean it of dirt.
remove rust, which has small swellings, should be removed with a metal brush attachment on a drill.

It is allowed to use the same rust destroyer at this stage. After that, it is good to process with emery cloth (grit from 80 to 100). It is important to make sure that there are no traces of rust at all, otherwise corrosion in this place will develop again. Next, degrease the surface, for example, with white spirit (acetone will not work, because it corrodes the paintwork of the body).

Final stage - anti-corrosion treatment(anti-rust). There are many such products on the market, and one of them can be epoxy primer. The composition of this product protects against rust well and creates good foundation for applying primer or paint. The disadvantages of such funds are the duration and toxicity. Thus, to obtain a high-quality result, at least 12 hours are required.

And the last one in my opinion The best way rust removal. It is a method based on electrochemical processes. Unlike liquid anticorrosives, this method requires ten times less time. Method based on an electrolytic solution of zinc salts on this moment considered the most reliable in the fight against corrosion. It is based on zinc, which settles on the metal and does not allow rust to reappear. Everyone has heard about galvanized body, which does not give in to rust ?

Such a set is called Zincor-Auto" which includes a degreasing and rust removal solution, as well as a solution for applying a protective coating.

When working with zinc preparations, you first need to remove rust from the selected area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe body, and then treat it with a cotton swab dipped in a solution, which is connected to the battery via wires. As a result of exposure to electricity, zinc particles settle on the body, and the treated area becomes gray color.

If the stores do not have similar metal corrosion control kits, then you can cover car body with zinc at home:

1. You will need a piece of zinc, soldering acid, a long wire, a clean rag, a source of 12-30V ( suitable battery vehicle).
2. Wrap a piece of zinc with a rag under which cotton wool is placed, a tampon is obtained.
3. We screw a self-tapping screw with a wire into a piece of zinc, which we connect in series through a 12v light bulb to the positive terminal of the battery.
4. We put on gloves and wet the working surface of the swab well with soldering acid.
5. We drive the swab over the surface of the body for 5-10 minutes until a gray coating is obtained.
6. We wash off the remaining acid from the metal and let it dry.

Such rust protection will never allow corrosion to form on the car body, even if the treated surface is not covered with paint and varnish afterwards!

In case when rust through, then the work to restore the body will take more than one day. After removing the rust, you need to restore the original shape of the car body section. Restoration can be done by welding new metal panels. At the end, we again apply epoxy primer.


But it is better not to bring the body to such a deplorable state.

Conclusion

Now you know that do-it-yourself rust control is not to mask corrosion, but to remove it and protect the body from subsequent occurrences. Remember that the first rust detection is a signal that you need to treat the body of the car with anticorrosion.

Every car owner has encountered such a phenomenon as the formation of rust on the body vehicle. You can remove red spots from the surface yourself using folk remedies. Very often you can hear the question: how to remove rust from a car body without damaging the paint? Unfortunately, this is not possible. After all, rust does not form on the surface. paintwork, but on metal.

Main stages

How do you remove rust from a car body with your own hands? This process can be divided into several main stages:

1. Vehicle wash. This allows you to remove all dust, stains and dirt.
2. Drying the car.
3. Removal of corrosion.
4. Processing of individual sections to protect the metal.
5. Puttying and sanding.
6. Coloring of treated areas.

Vehicle preparation

In order for the removal of rust from the car body with your own hands to be successful, you must carefully prepare everything damaged areas. The vehicle should be thoroughly washed. This can be done manually or by means of mechanization. In this case, it is recommended to use special sprayers. The body should be cleaned of dirt inside and out. It is also worth washing the luggage and engine compartment. This will allow you to carefully inspect the metal parts of the vehicle.

For best result You can use car shampoo. This tool allows you to remove not only dust and dirt, but also grease and salt. At the same time, car shampoo is able to protect the paintwork. The composition of such a drug does not contain toxic components, formaldehydes and phenols.

Body drying

Do-it-yourself rust removal from a car body is a process that requires careful preparation. After washing, the vehicle must be thoroughly dried. To do this, the body should be wiped several times with a sponge or cloth. This will remove any remaining moisture. Otherwise, stains may form as a result of natural drying.

After the car is ready, it is worth carefully inspecting it and identifying all damaged areas. Then it is recommended to install protective covers, which are designed to protect entire body parts from paint and chemicals.

Basic Rust Removal Methods

So, as Folk methods in this case may not help. Therefore, it is recommended to choose one of the traditional methods:

1. Chemical.
2. Mechanical.

You can remove rust from the car body with your own hands in the garage. The main thing is to decide in advance on the method and prepare everything you need.

Mechanical and do-it-yourself painting

To begin with, the area on which rust is present should be carefully rubbed with a metal brush or sandpaper. In this case, care should be taken, since the material that has undergone corrosion is easily destroyed. When processing the surface with sandpaper, you can resort to a wet or dry method. You can moisten the material with white spirit or kerosene. Grouting should be started with a coarse-grained sandpaper, and completed with a sandpaper with a finer structure. This allows you to achieve smooth surfaces.

You can also use a grinder to remove rust. Clean the damaged area until smooth. After processing, there should be no traces of rust on the metal.

If you choose a mechanical cleaning method, then you should use protective equipment: gloves and goggles.

Sandblasting method

This is another mechanical way to remove rust from the body. Sandblasting is considered the most effective and safe for metal. Cleaning of the material from rust is carried out thanks to a jet of air containing particles of sand. At home this method not available to everyone. After all, a sandblasting machine is required for work.

This method allows you to completely clean the damaged areas. When using a sandblaster, it is also recommended to protect your eyes and hands.

Chemical method

Chemical rust removal is carried out using various reagents. Such tools help prevent the development of corrosion in already damaged areas. At the moment, there is a fairly large range of rust converters. The list of the most popular includes:

1. Rust neutralizer with VSN-1 marking. After surface treatment, the rust gradually turns into a gray substance, which can be quickly and easily removed with a rag.
2. Orthophosphoric acid. This substance is not only sold in pure form, but also included in a variety of rust converters.
3. Zinc spray, for example "Zinkor-auto". This product allows not only to remove rust from the surface of the body, but also to create protective film.

Removing rust from a car body or special compounds is simple process. In this case, the surface is protected from further damage. As for rust, it is converted into a substance harmless to the metal.

Further processing

After stripping, the treated areas of the body must be degreased and covered with a layer. This is required only in cases where the metal is completely free of rust. If the material remains covered with the factory primer, then it is not necessary to apply another layer of primer. This tool allows you to protect the metal from corrosion, as well as provide better adhesion to the means that will be applied to the surface of the body. Primers are as follows:

Puttying and further painting

After the surface is prepared, it is worth applying a layer of putty. It also needs to be leveled and made smooth with a moisture-resistant skin. Putty can be applied in several layers. Each time its surface must be leveled with sandpaper. Each area must be level and smooth. After that, it is recommended to apply another coat of primer so that the paint adheres better to the treated areas.

After that, you can proceed to the choice of coverage. The shade of the paint must match. It is best to select the color in a car workshop. You can find out the coverage number in the vehicle passport. Staining of treated areas should be done with a spray gun. At the same time, at least three layers must be applied. Do not forget about protective equipment.

Properly carried out cleaning of the body from rust, as well as its painting, significantly increase the life of the vehicle.

All the time he is under the influence of the external environment, which very often affects him negatively. Moisture, the presence of chemicals on the roadway can lead to the appearance of corrosion spots, which very quickly develop into rust. If you do not take any measures, the car body will rot very quickly.

Causes of rust

Often, automakers in the factory carry out. But the same moisture and chem. reagents, and even stones flying off the wheels, destroy this layer over time. The wheel arches and the bottom are exposed to the greatest influence of harmful factors near the car body. The stones, which, when hit on the body, damage the paintwork, are able to provide the appearance of a corrosion center almost anywhere on the body.

Many motorists, having found a damaged paint layer, simply close it up or with special coloring pencils. As a result, over time, the applied layer begins to swell and peel off. The result of this is the ingress of moisture on unprotected metal, and simply by painting over the chipped area, the motorist provided excellent conditions for the appearance of rust.

Corrosion and rust must be dealt with. And self-deletion rust from the car body - the operation is quite possible. Many, without any problems, restore the body themselves, without contacting the service station, where body work usually have a high cost.

Having all the required materials and tools, as well as knowing the sequence of actions, you can successfully remove rust from the car body with your own hands.

Video: Rust on a car. Corrosion causes appearance

The initial stage, as always, is to determine the scope of work for the procurement the right amount tools and material. In this case, the car must be carefully inspected, Special attention you need to give the bottom, arches, as well as all the elements that are covered with plastic lining. You should also inspect the entire body for blisters or peeling of the paintwork. If there are any, most likely there is already a corrosion spot in this place.

One of the main operations for removing rust is cleaning the stain that has appeared. With minor corrosion spots, you can use sandpaper, but if the amount of work is large, a drill or an angle grinder can be an excellent helper. machine with special nozzles.

Required tools and materials for removing rust from a car body

So, in order to remove traces of rust from a car body, you will need:

1. Sandpaper;
2. Drill or grinder. machine (with the necessary nozzle);
3. rust converter;
4. Degreaser;
5. Putty;
6. Anticorrosive primer;
7. Dye;
8. Clean rags;
9. Scotch, paper;

Self troubleshooting process

With all this, you can start work. It is better to produce them in a garage with good lighting. But you can perform work on the street, the main thing is dry and warm weather.

Video: How to remove rust from a car body

Before starting work, remove all external elements from the car that may interfere with work, as well as thoroughly and dry it. If rust removal will be carried out on the bottom, the car is placed on a pit or overpass.

The first and one of the most important works, is trimming the bodywork. It is produced with sandpaper or fur. nozzle tools. As for sandpaper, it is better to use two types of it - coarse-grained and fine-grained. Moreover, coarse-grained paper should be taken at least 120, otherwise you can leave it on the body deep scratches, which will be difficult to close in the future.

Car body cleaning

The cleaning of a place with a rust stain should be such that the edges of the cleaned surface capture the areas adjacent to the stain. You need to remove rust until there is no trace of it left on the metal and its surface is shiny and clean.

With a significant damage to the body with rust, you can use cleaners - by special means, which exfoliate rust, and in the future it will be easier to remove it.

If cleaning is carried out at the place of swelling of the paint, then the layer of paint is first removed, and then it is already cleaned. After cleaning, the cleaned surfaces must be thoroughly wiped with a rag and treated with a degreaser.

The next stage of work will be the processing of cleaned and degreased surfaces with a converter. A transducer is a special tool by which a metal is formed on a metal surface. protective layer when interacting with iron oxide. If it is more clear, then at the chemical level, the converter, reacting with rust, turning it into a layer that will protect the metal from rust.

If you do not process the converter, then it is quite possible that rust will soon appear in the place that was supposedly processed. After applying the converter, the surface is again treated with a degreaser.

Body surface restoration works

Do-it-yourself car body putty

The treated surfaces are covered with putty. If, after stripping, there are rather deep marks or holes on the metal after rust, then you will have to work with two types of putty. To seal deep marks and holes, you will need to use putty, which contains fiberglass. It should be noted that it is quite difficult to perfectly level the surface with this putty, but this is not necessary. It is needed to seal deep marks and in the future will be the basis for conventional automotive putty.

After the putty with fiberglass has dried, its surface is treated with coarse-grained sandpaper, after which the surface is cleaned and degreased.

Next, the usual putty is already applied. After it dries, the surface is leveled with fine-grained sandpaper. It is from a layer of ordinary putty that a flat surface of the body is formed. After paper treatment, the surface is cleaned and degreased.

Filled surfaces are treated with a primer. It is applied in 2-3 layers, be sure to give time for each layer to dry. After the last layer has dried, it is necessary to treat the surface with fine-grained paper, previously soaked in water - the so-called primer matting, after which degreasing is again required.

Car body primer

The last step is to paint the surface. Here it is important to choose the right paint color so that it resembles the "native" paint to the maximum. All surfaces that the paint will not fall on must be covered with adhesive tape and paper. The paint is applied in 3 layers, allowing each layer to dry. After that, all removed elements are installed on the car, all work is considered completed.

If rust removal was carried out on the bottom or wheel arches, after painting, you need to make an additional anti-corrosion treatment these surfaces. To do this, you can use special tools such as "Movil" and the like.

Corrosion can appear on any car sooner or later, and the sooner you start fighting it, the less the body will suffer. But how to get rid of rust so that it no longer appears on the affected area and at the same time the car returns to its attractive appearance? Step by step description the process of rust removal followed by we have prepared for you in the article.

1 Body preparation, or where to start?

Before removing pockets of rust from the body, it is necessary to wash it thoroughly so that the surface of the car is perfectly clean. The fact is that the affected areas are poorly visible on a dirty surface, moreover, without complying with this requirement, it is impossible to qualitatively perform the subsequent finishing and protection of the metal from corrosion.

If the corroded area is difficult to access due to other parts, they must be dismantled. It can be a bumper, molding, turn signal, emblem, etc. In addition, the surfaces around the rusted area must be pasted over with masking tape so as not to damage them during work and not to stain them with paint. This completes the preparatory steps.

2 Preparation of materials for body repair - a set of tools

To qualitatively and quickly get rid of rust on the car body at home, you need to prepare the following set of tools:

• an angle grinder or even an ordinary electric drill with a special nozzle in the form of a metal brush;
• sandpaper with abrasive P120, P600 and P1000;
• rust converter type "Tsinkar";
• degreaser;
• polyester resin for lamination and fiberglass.
• anticorrosive primer;
• putty with fiberglass;
• putty without filler (finish);
• dye.

I must say that there are repair kits for rust control on sale, such as Zinkor-Avto. They contain three components - rust converter, degreaser and anti-corrosion coating, usually made on the basis of zinc. Such kits allow you to eliminate small pockets of corrosion.

3 We remove corrosion with minimal loss of time and effort

As you know, there are two methods of combating corrosion:

• mechanical;
• chemical.

The greatest effect can be achieved if you deal with rust comprehensively. Therefore, further we will apply both methods at once.

Starting work with machining rusty places. To do this, it is better to use a grinder or an electric drill, since cleaning it yourself is quite difficult and long. Rust must be removed together with old paint and a layer of old primer, i.e. it is necessary to work until a clean shiny metal appears, not only on the rust-affected area, but also on the area around it, about a centimeter or two wide. When the surface is clean, go over the top with P600 sandpaper, sanding hard-to-reach places by hand if necessary.

If you do not have a power tool at hand, you will have to remove the paint manually. To do this, use sandpaper with grain P120. Then clean with P600 sandpaper. If the metal is rotten through, it is necessary to expand the hole to the "live" metal. Then treat the prepared surface with a rust converter. chemical agent will get rid of even microscopic traces of corrosion.

Do not use a coarser sandpaper than P120, as it will leave deep scratches on the surface that will have to be putty.

Shake the composition thoroughly before using it. Then, using a sprayer, brush or even a rag, apply the liquid so that the surface is thoroughly wetted. After that, stop working and wait until the composition is completely dry. Next, brush the surface with a wire brush to remove any unreacted transducer residue, as well as the converted sandpaper.

To obtain the greatest effect, the procedure must be repeated. At the end of the work, the treated area must be thoroughly rinsed with water and then wiped dry with a cloth. Be aware that this mandatory requirement which cannot be neglected.

Use this principle to treat all rusty spots on the surface of the car.

Most often, corrosion appears on the doors under the moldings, where dirt and moisture accumulate, as well as on the thresholds. So dismantle everything hinged parts in these areas, as rust can hide under them.

4 Restoring the damaged area

So, we successfully coped with the removal of rust. Now you need to get started right away. anti-corrosion treatment prepared area, otherwise after a few days new traces of corrosion will begin to appear on the surface. We begin work by wiping the metal with a degreaser. To do this, simply soak the rags in the liquid and then wipe the cleaned metal with them.

Next, you need to apply an anti-corrosion primer to the surface. It will not only protect the metal from corrosion, but also improve the adhesion between the base and the putty or paintwork material. The primer is applied with a sprayer or a conventional brush. After the first layer has dried, apply a second layer and then a third. For more information about the use of primer, read the instructions from the manufacturer. The fact is that different soils have their own nuances that must be taken into account when applying them. Thus, treat with a primer all places cleaned from corrosion.

Anti-corrosion primer allows you to stop the development of corrosion. Therefore, if necessary, after applying it, you can take a break in work, but you still should not tighten it too much.

After that, you need to close up the holes, if, of course, there are any. Use fiberglass putty to seal a small hole. Apply it with a spatula as you would a normal solid surface. Due to the rather thick consistency and the presence of fiberglass in the structure, it will not fall into the hole.

If the hole is larger, with a diameter of 2–3 cm, masking tape can be glued on the back of the metal. If the area of ​​the hole is large, i.e. more than 3-4 cm in diameter, it can be sealed with fiberglass, which is glued with polyester resin. To do this, pre-cut a patch of fiberglass so that it overlaps the undamaged metal by 5–10 centimeters. Then mix the resin with a hardener, usually the latter is added in an amount of 3% of the amount of resin.

Keep in mind that the "survivability" of the resin is about 10 minutes, after which it hardens and sets. Therefore, immediately after kneading, apply it with a brush on the prepared surface and attach a fiberglass patch to this area. Coat the surface of the patch with resin so that it is completely saturated with it. After the resin hardens, it must be sanded with sandpaper to remove any large irregularities.

If the damage to the body is minor, the surface can not even be putty, it is enough to apply several layers of primer, after which you can start painting.

Then apply a thin layer of finishing or universal putty to the surface, trying to smooth it as accurately as possible. After drying, clean the coating with sandpaper "zero". Next, the surface must be thoroughly cleaned of dust. To prevent spots from appearing under the paint and the paint itself to hold well, apply another coat of primer to the surface. After hardening, the primer must be sanded with sandpaper "zero", previously soaked in water.

After that, the prepared surface must be painted. To repair a small area, you can use paint in a spray can. If you need to touch up a very small area, you can use a repair pencil with paint or paint in small tubes, which is sold with a brush, like women's nail polish. On this, in fact, the repair of the car body is completed. The only thing is that you can apply varnish on top of the paint and then polish it.

We invite you to take a look at some of the useful tips rust removal:

• the best quality of mechanical corrosion removal can be achieved using a sandblaster, as it allows you to process even the smallest pores, but does not change the thickness of the metal;
• to eliminate rust chemically, you can use indelible converters that turn rust into a protective film suitable for applying finishing materials;
• if rust is removed manually, moisten the sandpaper in white spirit, which will slightly increase work efficiency;
• If you don't have a rust converter, make your own. To do this, add 15–20 grams of oxalic acid to two liters of water, as well as a little citric acid and baking soda. The resulting liquid must be treated with a corroded area and wait 3-5 minutes. Then the surface must be washed well;
• instead of a degreaser, you can use the usual detergent for dishes;
• when removing rust, peel off a piece of paint from the car and save it, it will allow you to accurately match the paint to the body color.

Here, perhaps, are all the main points, knowing which you can even perform at home quality repair body of your car.

Corrosion of the car at all times provided their owners with a lot of trouble. Car doors are especially vulnerable to rust. This part of the car body has several places where rust and destructive corrosion appear first. Protecting a car door from corrosion varies in methods that depend on the degree and nature of the damage.

Causes of corrosion damage to doors

In order to more consciously approach the issue of protecting car doors, you should familiarize yourself with the causes of corrosion on this body part. You should also understand the types of foci of rust. Depending on these factors, you need to plan the fight against car rot. This applies only to those vehicles for which refurbishment is still appropriate. In some cases, replacing the door will be the only way out of this situation, when it is no longer possible to stop corrosion.

The very process of rust removal and the subsequent protection of car doors also has many nuances and little things. The fight against door corrosion can be considered using the example of Matiz. This car has become popular in recent times, as has the refurbishment of its doors.

The first cause of rust is the poor protection of the metal part of the car. Quite a lot of motorists do not pay due attention to this issue and do not carry out timely processing of body parts. anti-corrosion materials. As a result, the operation of the Matiz ends with disastrous consequences and the costly replacement of entire parts. So the first thing to do to stop corrosion is to prevent it.

In addition to the negligence of the motorist, constant moisture attacks are carried out on the metal. Even metal protection eventually succumbs to water, with which the car comes into contact very often. This is especially true for operation in regions with natural high humidity. Moisture constantly accumulates inside the cracks and negatively affects the metal.

The third enemy is the salts and chemicals used road services to remove snow and ice from roads common use during the cold season. These substances accumulate inside between the adjacent parts of the car, clog in the doors and simply settle on their surface in the form of a plaque. If Matiz does not wash often in winter, then the chemistry successfully eats up the paint, and then the metal by spring.

Another factor that negatively affects the metal of a car is minor accidents and other damage to the surface of the doors. In places of damage, the protection of the paint layer is weakened, and this contributes to the acceleration of the destruction of the metal. This happens especially quickly from below and inside the doors of a car, where moisture and chemistry are the most.

Varieties of door corrosion

Corrosion of car doors can be divided into several types:

• Slight swelling of the paintwork. A relatively small bubble grows very quickly, and as a result, the owner discovers that his Matiz has a through hole in the door. Such phenomena are observed quite often, but it is very simple to remove such a defect.
• Slight rust forms and becomes visible when the paint layer is damaged. Just like in the previous case, this is a signal for immediate action, otherwise the consequence will be a through hole.
• Large pockets of corrosion with obvious traces of rusted metal. In such cases, pieces of a rusty part can be picked off even with a finger. At this stage, the rotting of the driver's car expects a serious or complete replacement doors. It is very difficult to remove such corrosion, since it is not always possible to see its real scale.

Depending on how much corrosion has spread through the door, the method of dealing with it should also be determined. Will it local repair or restorative, also depends on the place where rust has formed. Repairing a door is not easy. inside, as well as outside. And all because the door is the exact mechanism of the car, and if you make a mistake in the repair, then it simply will not close.

Methods for eliminating corrosion damage to doors

According to the methods of combating corrosion, several varieties can be distinguished. All of them have mixed opinions of experts and amateurs, but they have been successfully used for many years, and their effectiveness can only be judged by trying everything on your car.

The very first thing to do when corrosion occurs is to completely remove it. Even if it is not yet planned to paint the door, it is enough to treat the cleaned place with a primer and apply a protective substance to this area.

This is especially true on the inside of the door. Such localization of corrosion will not be noticeable, and your Matiz will be able to wait more opportunity for painting. A more difficult task is facing those who started restoration repairs with painting and other delights. This option requires much more time and money, but after its implementation, you can forget about door corrosion for quite a long time. This type of repair is the most common, so it is described below in more detail.

The most difficult type of door repair is the restoration of its geometry with partial metal inserts. The body geometry of the Matiz is quite simple, but it also has bends and other details. Before proceeding with such repairs, it is worth counting to weigh everything. Perhaps the degree of damage is so high that it will be easier to replace the damaged door. Fortunately, on the same Matiz body parts enough on the market.

Now in more detail about how to stop corrosion, how protection is applied to Matiz and how to prevent this process to the maximum in the future.

Preparing your door for corrosion

Before doing anything, it is necessary to assess the degree of damage and how to prepare the door for repair work. If there is rust only on the outside of the Matiz door, then all the work comes down to removing it to bare metal. This process can be carried out with special brushes for a drill or grinder. You will also need sandpaper of various grits.

If corrosion spreads from below or from the inside, then the door will also have to be disassembled. To do this, the entire trim and door controls are removed.

Removing corrosion from the inside looks similar to the above option. The only thing to consider is the protection of the interior from dust and sparks that will fly there during the rust removal process. When all the centers of corrosion are removed, you can proceed to the next stage - the restoration of geometry. The two methods for restoring the door geometry are briefly described below.

Metal inserts on damaged areas of the door

The hardest part about inserting pieces of metal is to keep the shape of those areas that have not been corroded. Very often, inexperienced welders can pull the metal with their efforts, as a result of which the overall shape of the door is violated. And this negatively affects both the appearance of the part and its functionality.

Equally important in the process of inserting metal patches is correct selection recovery material. It is best to cut pieces of metal from a similar part of another car.

Ideally, from the same Matiz model, which can no longer be restored. This will make it possible to choose the metal not only in terms of thickness and composition, but will also help to restore the shape of the door more accurately.

Applying putty to repaired areas

If the repair did without metal inserts, then the geometry will have to be restored with automotive putty. Here, too, some skills are needed, since it is rather difficult to accurately repeat the surface that was originally. After the metal inserts, you can’t do without putty either, because in any case there will be minor defects which will need to be corrected at this stage.

After applying the putty, wait until it dries properly, and after setting, you need to start grinding. At this stage, you need to gradually adjust the surface to the ideal one. This can sometimes be very difficult to achieve, and especially outside the door, where appearance plays very important role. After aligning the geometry, you can proceed to priming.

Priming of damaged areas

If the repair was local and small pockets of corrosion were removed, then priming should not be extended to a large area. Sometimes it is enough to apply a layer of primer with a brush and sand it a little with fine sandpaper. From the bottom of the door and from the inside, this is also more acceptable, especially if there is no spray gun.

When priming is carried out with an airbrush, you should first protect the remaining parts of the car that will not be painted. More simple option will give Matiz to specialists, because at specialized stations there is everything necessary for such a procedure, starting with equipment and ending with experienced personnel.

Painting

The same applies to painting work - if there is not enough experience in this matter, then it is better to entrust the work to professionals. It will be a lot cheaper than the inept painting that will have to be redone.

When painting, you should be guided by the same basic rules as when priming. An important point is the selection of paint and its proper preparation. No less significant is the quality equipment and experience of the master.

Prevention of corrosion of car doors

Very important process, in addition to restorative repairs, is the prevention of corrosion Matiz. No matter how well it was made body repair, subsequent protection - important factor, which affects the long service life of both doors and other parts of the car. Preventive work includes surface treatment with special means, which in our time are quite common and have an extensive range of varieties. This is both traditional autochemistry - Movil or pushsalo, and relatively new.

New types include various aerosols and means zincating by the method of electrolytic reaction. What exactly to use, it is impossible to give a definite answer. Each manufacturer praises its tool, and each user speaks differently about a particular tool.

Speaking of prevention. protective equipment it is necessary to apply not only when corrosion has already done its job, and it was necessary to carry out repairs. When buying a new car or equipment in normal condition from hands, you should immediately pay attention to surface treatment. This will help for many years to delay such body work, which is associated with the restoration of the results of the negative activity of corrosion.