Care paintwork auto

Caring for the body paintwork When caring for the body paintwork (LCP), first of all, the condition of its various chrome-plated parts and colors is checked. If deep scratches are found, they can be foci of subsequent corrosion. If rust is found, it must be dealt with immediately. It is removed from the chrome-plated surface and the protected area is varnished, which prevents its further spread. They remove rust with a special composition based on chemical reagents, as well as using chalk or tooth powder, applied to a soft, dry cloth. Depending on the location of corrosion, its size and the shape of the lesion focus, the movement of the rag can be circular or rectilinear with light pressure. Any violation Body paintwork leads to a weakening of its protective functions against corrosion, therefore, the area with new corrosion is immediately cleaned with an emery cloth and covered with enamel. Larger surfaces are primed and covered with paint and enamel. The paint restoration technology is shown below. Once a month, measures are taken to restore the gloss of the body surface and protect the paintwork from the external environment by applying a protective wax layer with polishing water, and every 3-4 months - with wax paste. If the paintwork has lost its original shine and has become matte, then the shine is restored by polishing. Polishing consists in smoothing surface irregularities (filling microcracks and pores, removing protrusions), creating a durable protective layer on the paintwork. During the operation of the car in the cold season and in conditions of high humidity (maritime climate), chrome parts are lubricated with technical vaseline or oil and the lubricant is renewed every 2-3 months. Immediately remove escaping fuel, oil, grease or brake fluid which can discolor the paint and damage the corrosion protection. Clean washed and dry paintwork panels are regularly treated with special agents to protect the surface from the influence of meteorological conditions using a water-repellent wax that fills the pores and cracks of the paintwork. Depending on the state of the paintwork, the coating of the car body is divided into new, weathered and old. With this in mind, the industry has established the production of various polishes. Each product has a passport-label with the technology of its application. Polishing is recommended outdoors, in the shade, at 20 degrees Celsius, while dust should not fall on the surface of the car. The polishing compound is quickly applied with a cotton swab in an even layer to the surface to be treated. It is best to polish the body in small areas, with an old (washed) terry cloth or polishing napkins, quick in a circular motion until the solvent has evaporated, until a shiny surface is obtained. Before polishing, it is necessary to wash the surface of the body, the new surface is washed especially thoroughly (up to a year of operation). After application, the polish is rubbed with a soft cloth, its components (wax, abrasive material, solvent) are mixed, and after surface treatment the body becomes renewed and shiny. It is recommended to start polishing with a coarser material (felt, felt or cloth), gradually moving to softer materials. The thickness and uniformity of the shiny film of the body paintwork depends on the quality of grinding the polish. The polishing process itself is very laborious and therefore it is recommended to use an electric drill with replaceable discs. To assess the quality of polishing, carry out the following experiment: apply water to the polished panel and, if the water does not roll off the panel coating after polishing, but spreads over a large area, then repeat the polishing process. When driving, resinous substances get onto the surface of the car body, which in a short time eaten into the paint, forming stubborn stains, which cannot be completely eliminated. Fresh stains are removed with a soft cloth soaked in refined gasoline (“B-70” brand). In the absence of such, you can use gasoline "A-95", kerosene or turpentine. After that, the treated surface is rinsed abundantly with running water. Very effective against resin stains is a remover bituminous spots... When using it, you can refuse the subsequent washing of the treated area. When driving, especially in spring and summer, a large number of insects break on the surface of the body. Remains of dead insects contain substances that can damage the color if not removed within a short time. If they have adhered to the surface of the body and cannot be washed off with a sponge and water, then they resort to using a warm soapy solution or detergent. There are also special insect cleaners available. Any splashes of building materials on the body are washed off with a warm solution of a neutral detergent. In this case, you must not rub the surface very hard so as not to damage the paintwork. Finally, the surface is rinsed with plenty of clean water.

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1. Car shampoos- dissolve in water and are used for car washing. May contain polishing additives that give the paintwork shine and short-term protection against environmental influences.

2. Shampoos-cleaners- in a concentrated form, they remove stubborn stains from insects, tar, etc. from paintwork, in a diluted form - they are used as a regular car shampoo.

3. Anhydrous washes- are used for local removal of contaminants (for example, bird droppings) from the body and trim parts of the car.
Polishes.

4. Polishes

Abrasive- contain particles that "peel off" the upper (micron) layer of the paintwork, oxidized from the harmful effects of the OS and allowing to smooth out small scratches, refresh and trim the color, remove dullness after an unsuccessful "garage painting". There are various degrees of "fineness" - from Hi Tech Rubbing Compound (the largest grain) to Color Back (the most gentle liquid polish with fine abrasive particles). For coatings "metallic" and "mother-of-pearl" use only special abrasives marked: "Metallic Finish Restorer" (restorer of surfaces "metallic") or similar, indicating that this product will not leave "scuffs" on the varnish layer.

ATTENTION! Do not use ordinary abrasive polishes on machines painted with metallic and mother-of-pearl paints in order to avoid the appearance of hard-to-remove haze on the lacquer (top) layer of the coating!

And one more general remark: do not get carried away unnecessarily with abrasive polishes and grab the jar when each new "hair" appears under rear bumper... Nevertheless, this is a mechanical effect on paintwork, which, in its effect from excessive use, is akin to tooth enamel whiteners - from too zealous "polishing" the enamel becomes thinner. If it is possible to do with local processing, it is not necessary to polish the entire machine. But if, nevertheless, an abrasive is necessary, then it is better to polish twice with a finer one, rather than once, but more coarse. This does not mean that abrasive polishes are harmful or dangerous, but when using them, you still need to know when to stop.

Color-rich- contain pigments of the main tone of the paint, suitable for the range of shades of the main tone. So, for example, white color-enriched polish is used for processing paintwork in bright white, "Safari", "White Night", "Jasmine" and other "white" colors. During processing, the pigments are "rubbed" into the microcracks of the paintwork, filling in small risks and scratches. Used for refreshing body color, retouching "hair" scratches from improper care for paintwork. They practically do not create a protective coating, are unstable without additional processing and require regular renewal (every 2 weeks, on average). Suitable for all types of coatings "metallic", "pearl", "matte".

Protective- with additives of teflon, urethane and other synthetic substances. In the process of processing, a polymerization reaction occurs with the upper layer of paintwork, which makes it possible to create a protective coating that is quite resistant to the effects of OS, which makes it easier to wash the car and contributes to less contamination of the paintwork. Subject to the processing technology and depending on the selected drug, they are protected for 1.5 - 3 months (taking into account climatic features season). Can be used alone or in a complex for the care of paintwork as a top layer. There are separate options for metallic coatings on sale, although, in principle, protective polishes are universal (unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer in the instructions). Some companies supply drugs that can create a protective coating for up to 4 years, but this is no longer just a polish, but a protective complex that is not available to everyone (about 1000 rubles per bottle).

ATTENTION!!! Protective polishes must not be applied to damaged paintwork: all chips and scratches must be repaired, otherwise corrosion may increase (unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer in the instructions). Do not use on heated paintwork to avoid streaks and stains.

Wax- colorless (as a rule) polishes with the addition of wax and / or special substances that make it possible to give the paintwork a glossy, "exhibition" look. Do not have a pronounced protective property, but give the paint a deep "wet" shine and help to hide "hair" scratches and concentric circles from improper care of the paintwork. They are very popular when preparing a car for sale, since they visually perfectly renew the coating. The processing resistance is not very high. A distinctive feature is that it is rather difficult to polish (due to the thick consistency of wax additives).

Top Sealers- preservatives of the top layer or "ionic shields" - a more concentrated version of the protective polish. It can be used both separately and in a complex for the care of paintwork as the last layer. They are highly resistant to external influences. Recommended in unfavorable climatic conditions, as well as when storing a car for a long time.

Express polishes - liquid products for fast processing using the "apply-wipe-drive" technology - to bring the machine into an acceptable form in a minimum time. Virtually no protective effect. Often available in aerosol form for ease of application, and can be used even on slightly dusty surfaces.

Polishing Pastes- thicker polishes. The main difference from liquid forms is that they allow you to apply a thicker layer, but it is more difficult to polish it. More suitable for older surfaces. Usually packaged in flat jars. Among polishing pastes there are color-enriched, protective, wax (usually called simply "wax" in stores). The method of application is the same as for liquid polishes.

5. Cleaners, reducers and polishes for other surfaces

Cleaners for plastic, vinyl and rubber in the car- cleanse, refresh the color and give a new look to the trim and trim parts - door upholstery, ceiling, dashboard, etc. Well dissolve plaque from tobacco smoke, traces of oil, resin. With regular use, they protect the cladding parts from cracking and premature aging. They cope well even with contamination "working off" on the engine and other elements engine compartment. Good result when removing traces of polish from glass edging, moldings and other body elements. Do not spoil Car paintwork.

Purifiers wheel rims - are used to care for the surfaces of discs, remove dirt from pads, tar, etc., allow to extend the life of the surface. Suitable for forged and alloy wheels, both polished and enameled.

Insect and resin surface cleaners- remove traces of insects and other stubborn dirt, dissolve bitumen, remove old stains.

Instrument panel polishes- gently cleanses and gives a new, shiny look to plastic parts, dashboard etc. Condition the surface, remove static charge and prevent further adhesion of dust. Usually available in aerosol form or in the form of impregnated sponges for cleaning surfaces. The intermediate version between polishes and cleaners also has a good cleaning effect, giving the surface a soft, silky shine. It is better not to use this tool on the steering wheel, handle parking brake and the gearshift lever, since the machined surface is rather slippery, and the hand can slip off at the most inopportune moment.

Engine cleaners- are subdivided into foam (subject to further washing with water, after dissolution of contaminants) and sprays (liquids) for cleaning the elements of the engine compartment. Effectively dissolves deposits of persistent dirt (waste oil, etc.). Before using, it is advisable to find out how the purchased composition affects the paintwork - the fact is that these funds are quite aggressive and may well spoil the paint and plastic elements(wires, covers, etc.).

Glass cleaners- formulations with ammonia (usually marked "With Ammonia") for cleaning glass. They remove dirt, plaque from tobacco smoke, etc. It is not recommended to wipe the paintwork with them, since the ammonia causes dullness of the paint.

Anti-rain- a special composition applied to the clean dry glass car, on side mirrors, etc. Improves visibility when driving in the rain, allows for some time to do without "wipers", for example, in the event of a breakdown. It makes sense to keep this preparation on hand if the reliability of the operation of the windshield wipers is in doubt (it does not replace the need to repair them.

Glass polishes- the ability to grind small scratches and abrasions by hand windshield clearly exaggerated. Perhaps using a sander can improve the result, but this is doubtful. Effective on new glasses, gives "crystal" transparency. A good effect is achieved when polishing headlamp glasses, sidelights - removes "turbidity".

Cleaners and polishes for black plastic and vinyl- used to update the look plastic bumpers and tires, tint, return a "new" look, give shine and protect against premature aging.

Chrome cleaners and polishes- removes dirt and corrosion stains from bumpers and other chrome-plated surfaces and protects against new stains by creating a protective film on the surface. By the way, you can wipe off not very old stains with WD-40 and not spend money on buying an expensive can.

Rust converters- for etching away corrosion spots and preparing the treated surface for touch-up. There are two main categories: for local application and for the treatment of large surfaces damaged by corrosion.

Attention!!! On external surfaces, use with caution, if possible, do not get on the paintwork, as black spots remain, which require considerable effort to remove. Before applying the converter, the surface should be lightly cleaned, since the "shell" (the bubble from which this nasty red spot on the side of the pet began) is under a looser, surface layer of rusty metal. For stripping, a small piece of fine skin (from the first numbers), fixed on a block or other holder of a suitable configuration, is suitable. After the treated area changes color from red to black (dark gray or some other - depending on the brand of the product), the surface should be rinsed from the residues of the product and tinted (primed, etc. - depending on the specific task ).

Repair (wax) pencils- are used for the cosmetic patching of scratches and small chips, a protective polish is very desirable over the applied pencil to extend the "service life". The pencil does not fit on "flat" chips, it has nothing to "catch" on when drawing. Places treated with a wax crayon require periodic refilling, since the result of the touch-up is not very durable.

Repair bottles (paint, varnish)- small bottles with acrylic paint (varnish) of instant air drying, used for touch-up of chips. A small brush is inserted into the cap of the bottle, which allows processing small chips and scratches. Before application, the surface must be rinsed, removed traces of corrosion and degreased (for example, with white spirit). They are selected according to the paint number, which coincides with the standard color numbering. However, before applying, it makes sense to check if the shade is suitable, on an inconspicuous place. Among the most common "touch-ups" are Dupli-Color (AGA) and MOTIP.

From the first of June, true peto comes to our region. Trips to summer cottages, outings to nature, car travel. How many fascinating, entertaining and captivating things are! So I want to have a rest "for 100%" and not do anything, not counting rest. And yet, you still need to be distracted from the summer vacation in order to help your four-wheeled friend transfer the summer heat and annoying dust. He is also bothered by mosquitoes, flies and young kidneys. And he himself cannot cope with these failures, because at times you need to bother about the car body and its paintwork.

Before figuring out what you need to have at hand for caring for a car in the summer, let's figure out when it is better to do this difficult, troublesome, but exciting business. Exists Golden Rule- you can work with paintwork in the open air either before 11-00 in the morning, or after 16-00. This is due to the fact that direct sunlight, already disastrous for paintwork (LCP), is especially destructive in the daytime. A perfect place to work is a shady spot in the garden or in the shade of a house. Since it does not matter what kind of paintwork treatment with polishes or preservatives is carried out only after washing the car, you need to try so that the remains of the car shampoo do not damage the lawn. Believe me, your spouse, who has given him more than one month, will not forgive you for this.

We will leave the process of washing the car outside the scope of our article, we will create only two comments. 1st - hand washers highest pressure still better than a rag and a bucket of water. Especially if the sink has two attachments - a washing burr and a rinse aid. Second - make sure that there are no traces of shampoo left on the body after washing - the polish will lie unevenly on their polish and will not polish at all. Mixing with the rest of the shampoo, it will simply smear over the body.

So, the car is washed, wiped dry and ready to work with paintwork. Where do we start? With a selection of polishing materials. What are they? First, in terms of composition. Despite the abundance of polishes, a fairly close set of basic components comes into the composition of virtually all products: complex consistencies of waxes, silicones and silicone resins, often with the addition of insoluble dyes and pigments, created to enhance the initial body color.

According to the liking of the impact on the paintwork of the body, car polishes can be divided into three groups: wax, synthetic and abrasive. Wax polishes are the oldest method of adding color and shine to a car. The advantages of this type of polish are that they have a low price and give an amazing end result with a small investment of time and effort. As can be seen from the very name of the materials, all car polishes of this type have natural or natural waxes in their own composition. They have good water-repellent qualities, sufficient adhesion to the painted surface and resistance to decomposition under the influence of negative environmental influences, which, firstly, include road dust and a mixture of mist with exhaust gases.

The traditional representative of the materials of this group is the color polish with wax "Sonax" for all types of paintwork. An important advantage of aerosols based on natural waxes is that they are relatively cheap. An example is the aerosol DOCTOR WAX QUICK POLYMER WAX polish "Fast wax".

But with all the advantages, the film formed by such waxes on the body paintwork is short-lived and will withstand only until the first wash. Synthetic polishes, which are more complex in their own composition, are cleaning-restorative, silicone and polymer. The composition of cleaning-reduction polishes includes a composition of chemical compounds and fine abrasive substances that allow you to quickly return the color and shine to the car, simply remove oxidized paint, hard-to-remove stains and small scratches and abrasions from the surface of the body. The disadvantage of polishes of this group is the need to cover the car with a layer of protective polish in order to extend the life of the composition, otherwise, after a couple of weeks, the paintwork will fade and oxidize again.

Silicone polishes are similar in their properties to wax and in most cases are watery products in plastic containers with a spray. They return color and shine to the car in a very short time, and they are also lost quite rapidly.

Polymer polishes serve noticeably longer, providing adhesion to the paintwork at the molecular level. They are a better option for cars, as they have a number of protective parameters that prolong the effect of the product. Materials of this group protect the car body from road salt, burnout in the sun, negative effects of the external environment, have a long service life and withstand up to 3 car washes.

The means that provide polishes with these characteristics, first, include different Teflons. These are 100% synthetic materials that retain exceptional chemical resistance and provide high elasticity at large and low temperatures, guarantee the film a great durability. This is one of the important parameters of "summer" polishes, taking into account that when heated and cooled, the body, respectively, "grows" or "shrinks". If the coating is hard and not elastic, the applied layer of protection will crack rapidly. Protective polishes, which include Teflon, are a cheaper, but not the most durable method of protecting the body from summer misfortunes. Brand Turtle wax, which is very popular with our motorists, is represented in this group of products by dull polish with Teflon 6509.

But polymer polishes also have their drawbacks - first, the highest price and laboriousness of the process of polishing a car, which takes a lot of time and effort.

And, in the end, polishes, which are means based on abrasive substances, allowing you to grind the treated surface of the car. Abrasive polishes are designed to remove scratches, old stains and other abrasions of paintwork and are used exclusively in critical cases, when you need to quickly disguise any flaw or return the paintwork on an ancient car. The failure is that with all this the top layer of varnish is removed, therefore, after applying abrasive polishes, it is recommended to process the surface of the body protective equipment, otherwise, corrosion of the body can develop quite rapidly.

According to the mixture, car polishes are divided into watery, solid and creamy pastes, with all this, their main function is to give the surface of the body shine with the formation of a protective film on it due to the wax contained in the composition.

The most comfortable to use are watery polishes, but they are the least economical due to the fact that, like any water, they tend to spill. In addition, it is unrealistic to apply watery polishes to the car with a relatively thick layer. It is safer to choose a watery polish, which contains a huge amount of silicones, but you will have to pay a lot for this, because such polishes are quite expensive.

Like water-based polishes, spray polishes are quite comfortable due to the application method. But just as in the case of watery polishes, the car will only be able to shine if the highest concentration of silicones is included in the aerosol preparations. When choosing aerosol polishes, you need to pay attention to the composition of the polish and keep in mind that high-quality aerosol polishes at their own price are not inferior to good watery products.

A good mirror shine is assigned to a car body by hard polishes or pastes. And the shine, in turn, gives the color depth to the car through the application of a large layer of hard polish. But the hard pasta also has its own disadvantage. Hard polishes take a lot of time and effort to polish a car, making this job very labor intensive. Hard carnauba wax E-Z Wax Paste is a representative of the group of hard polishes that are usually used in car services or by very experienced motorists.

The best option is creamy polishes, which include high polymer silicones and waxes. They are comfortable to use, they are simply applied to the surface of the car body and do not spread. Creamy pastes give the car the deepest color and shine without taking a long time to polish. Willson polish-paste with a composition of natural (carnauba) and polymer (ASI) wax for light car enamels is supplied with, for example, a special applicator for ease of use. In addition, creamy polishes are distinguished by affordable prices.

Whichever type of car polish you choose for own car, it is worth keeping in mind that they not only restore and protect the paintwork color and eliminate small imperfections of the enamel. In addition, polishes have good anticorrosive properties, which makes it possible to protect small chips and deepest (to metal) damage to the enamel during processing. You see, the choice of car paint care products is very wide, and, as a result, depends on your desires, abilities and the age of your car.

A car of two or three years of age, as a rule, does not need the deepest polishing of the body, and it is quite enough to treat it with watery or aerosol compositions several times a season. A car that has served you for 10 years asks for a harsher approach. Creamy synthetic polishes will help to "heal" its paintwork and repair minor damage, especially if you use tinted polishes. Well, in the end, the veterans of our off-road. Cars over 20 years old (and we have a lot of them) need not just polishing, but also reliable protection body. After many years of operation, the car inevitably loses its outer gloss, the paintwork fades, the color loses its depth and small scratches and chips of the enamel appear. All this does not honor your car. But return the original view own car you can use specially made car polishes.

Creamy polishes, which include abrasive materials, allow you to remove the top "aged" layer of paintwork, repair imperfections and restore the color of the body. "Veteran" deserves an additional protective polishing... This adds a layer of protection over the paint. There are no restrictions on the number of protective polishes, in particular, you will need an epoxy-based polish here. This polishing creates a very strong, long-lasting protective film with a clearly pronounced water-repellent effect. The process of applying such a protective coating, in contrast to the usual procedure, includes not only washing the car and drying, but also degreasing the paintwork, applying and polishing the protective composition. Usually, all operations for applying the deepest protective polish are done by hand, but the effort is worth it to make your car look like new.

The deepest and highest quality polishing of the car body significantly extends the service life of the car. Polishing agents interact with the coating at the molecular level and form a layer of protection that repels water and dirt, protects against oxidation and chemical destruction of paint under the influence of the environment, as well as exposure to ultraviolet rays. Therefore, polishing the car body, the prices for which are very democratic, should become an indispensable procedure.

Typically, the bodywork takes less than 1 hour, provided the vehicle is washed and dried. Agree, carving out this time in the summer cottage mode or on a road trip is not very difficult. But what pleasure you will experience, seeing your own reflection in the hood of your pet. The protective effect of polishing is felt more clearly within 1.5-3 months. Thus, for the entire summer season, you will have to take care of the car 2-3 times, which, you see, is not so much.

After treating the car with any type of car polish, it is recommended not to wash it with shampoo for 2-3 days. During this period of time, the protective film will firmly fix and protect the car from all summer misfortunes and adversities. With constant operation and constant washes, it is recommended to polish more than 4 times a year, but winter "procedures" need a warm, light and clean garage.

Many car owners have a question - how to properly care for the car's paintwork in order to preserve it for a long time. Old or poorly maintained paint is immediately noticeable, and the mirror-like depth of a fresh car paint, pleasing to the owner's eye, disappears quite quickly. In this article we will try to consider many aspects of this problem.

Weather and temperature influence

In the process of year-round use of the car, the effect of sudden changes in temperature constantly affects the paintwork of the car. When the temperature changes, the speed and degree of expansion of the metal of the car body and paint is significantly different. As a result, microcracks are formed on the multilayer coating. When microcracks appear, the coating loses its glossy shine, and dirt and water can clog in them, which aggravate the situation. In severe cases, cracks reach the body and allow moisture to pass through, which leads to the formation of corrosion on the body metal.

At the same time, due to the aging effect and external negative conditions, partial delamination of the coating occurs. This will cause the saturated color to fade and shine.

Naturally, these processes must be fought, but it will never be possible to stop completely. There are ways to help slow the process down significantly. There is nothing tricky in the method, you need regular and high-quality car body care. It is necessary to wash the car with high quality, delicate, and most importantly, regularly. If gloss is lost, restore it with polishing agents. All detected defects, for example: scratches, chips and cracks, must be urgently eliminated before corrosion appears in these places.

Regular car care and maintenance pure form is the main way to combat paint aging. On a freshly washed car, it is easy to notice the initial stages of varnish aging or defects that have appeared. You can take care of a car on your own, but you need to know exactly how, and for those who do not have time for this, they can contact a checked car wash with qualified employees, for example, in Surgut http://remont-avto86.ru/uslugi/avtomoyka -v-surgute / which is recommended by many clients.

Winter season

In winter, it is necessary to take a doubly responsible approach to the cleanliness of the car. Jae after not long trip, a mixture of snow sticks to the underside of the car. Dirt and technical salt (which is sprinkled on the road), as well as possible ingress of various resins, oils and other contaminants. Therefore, washing the car, and especially the bottom, in winter is necessary more often and more thoroughly.

It is recommended that you wash your car before putting it in a garage or parking lot. This is due to the fact that tar, tar or resin could get into all possible contamination, which actively eats into the paint and violate its integrity.

The most the right way wash the car, if you do not have special washing devices (such as Karcher) on the farm, wash it with a hose with cold water under low pressure, or you can use a bucket or watering can. Car wash should be started from the most polluted places, as a rule, these are wheels, wheel arches and the bottom, sometimes sills and the lower part of the doors. After that, it is better to start washing the car from top to bottom, so that dirty water does not stain the already washed areas.

If the contamination does not lend itself to some areas, it cannot be peeled off or scraped off with anything. This will damage the paint layer. In this case, it is better to soak the dirt well or use special products to remove difficult dirt.

Also, it is absolutely impossible to remove dust from the surface of a dry machine with a rag. Dust is a very hard abrasive that easily scratches the topmost layer of varnish. This will result in a large number of small scratches and loss of gloss. It is worth noting that washing a car with sea water will lead to a rapid aging of the coating, the same effect gives hot water, due to a sharp and uneven temperature drop, but to a lesser extent.

Any materials that absorb moisture well can be used to wipe and dry the car. Most often, they choose special suede napkins, but a piece of flannel will do just as well.

Before wiping the car "dry", it is advisable to moisten and survive the fabric, so excess moisture is absorbed more efficiently. After applying the fabric, it is advisable to wash the material and squeeze well. If you used suede, then it is not advisable to completely dry it, the fabric then coarsens and loses its properties. It would be better to close it in an airtight container where moisture will remain for a long time.

Specialized detergents

To speed up and improve the quality of washing, you can use specialized car detergents(car shampoos). The active substances in the detergents help dissolve and soften dirt faster and completely. After that, they are easily removed with water. Any car detergent is suitable for washing the car body and does not harm the plastic and rubber parts of the car.

Today, there are many car shampoos that may contain additional additives to renew or protect the paintwork.

There are detergents with an anti-corrosion additive. These shampoos are suitable for the entire car care complex, not only for body washing. It can be used to clean the car interior and seat upholstery. Thanks to the anti-corrosion additive, the shampoo leaves an additional protective film on the coating and other metal parts, preventing premature aging and corrosion. After use, rinse with water.

There are detergents with a drying effect. The main feature of the car shampoo is in a special additive that, after application, forms an invisible coating, on which water does not collect. All moisture rolls off the treated surface, while remaining dry.

Concentrated shampoos are created mainly for use in car washes for mechanical use, such a shampoo is enough 1 g per 1 liter of water.

Car polishing shampoo is a car wash with the addition of special wax elements. After application, a glossy protective film is formed, which improves the appearance of the coating and at the same time protects against aging.

After using any detergent with active elements, it is necessary to rinse the car with plain water in large quantities, preferably several times. Due to the content active substances in the composition, the remains of car shampoo are able to soften varnish coating body and cause premature aging.

Car wash and cleaning

Also, an important point in car care is cleaning and cleaning the interior. The car interior is cramped closed space, which collects a large amount of dust and various dirt from feet and street clothes. It is very harmful for human health to breathe such a mixture. Therefore, we advise you to pay sufficient attention to cleaning the interior, a clean interior of the car is pleasant and useful.

It is necessary to clean the interior of the car in a comprehensive manner; first, remove all unnecessary from the seats and the floor of the car, as well as from the front panel. Then remove and wash the rugs well, and vacuum the entire interior - this will remove most of the accumulated dust. If the upholstery of doors and seats allows wet cleaning, then we wipe all the remaining elements with a damp cloth, while wiping everything dry with a previously prepared dry cloth.

If the car has fabric on the upholstery of doors or seats, then there are special products in aerosol cans for dry cleaning. Also, do not forget about the ceiling of the car, it also collects a fairly large amount of dirt.

Completion of the wash

It is advisable, after washing the car, to leave it on the street to dry all moisture in a ventilated area, especially after wet cleaning of the interior. In a poorly ventilated room, all accumulated moisture in joints, niches and crevices will remain there for a long time, which can lead to premature corrosion. Also, it is advisable to remove moisture from the external locks using a pump. It is especially important in the winter period of operation, or use special anti-freezing lubricants for locks.

After washing the car. Body defects are well manifested - cracks, chips, scratches and so on. We advise you to correct defects immediately, before corrosion begins to form in these places. For this, a special car pencil, specially matched to the color of your car and containing nitro enamel, is well suited. It is worth noting that sometimes car manufacturers equip cars with such an emergency kit.

Body polishing

Regular use of polishes will help extend or improve the paintwork on your car. Today presented wide choose from many manufacturers. Each tool has its own positive properties in operation and application.

The main task of conventional polishing products is to protect the treated surface from unwanted moisture and dust, as well as to maintain an attractive surface appearance. When used on paintwork, the polish penetrates deeply and fills all microcracks and scratches, and also covers the surface with a thin film, which protects the surface from an aggressive external environment.

The first sign that a polish is needed is when water gets on the car, it spreads rather than forming individual drops. Also, small scratches or faded discoloration visible in sunlight.

There are several types of polishing materials - these are wax polishes, possibly painted in the color of the car, and polishing materials containing abrasives of different fractions. As you might guess, wax polishing materials do not physically affect the paintwork of the car, they serve as a protective and decorative element that fills in cracks and scratches, and also creates a protective film with a deep reflection.

Polishing materials containing abrasive elements are used in more difficult cases. These funds physically "rub" all scratches, thanks to the extremely small "grains of sand". At the same time, restoring the integrity of the top layer of the coating. Which also brings back the brilliance and pristine depth of reflection.

In the most difficult cases, polishing materials are used with an abrasive, but a mechanical method. Special polishing manual machines they perform the work much better. But this procedure it is advisable to entrust it to a specialist, since careless use can damage the top layer of varnish, which can only be restored in a paint shop

If you notice that the chrome parts of the car have started to fade, there are several ways to restore the factory shine. If corrosion on the parts does not appear, then you can try using a cloth soaked in kerosene. After wiping with kerosene, wipe the part with a dry soft cloth, this will renew the shine of the part. If corrosion has already begun to appear, then it is advisable to use a special cleaner for chrome-plated parts. The composition of the product contains many active substances that cleanse the surface, transform rust, and the wax contained in the composition clogs pores and scratches, betraying the shine of the part and protecting it from rusting.

Continuous maintenance of the paintwork is a work that always pays off, as matt, scratched paint surfaces significantly impair the appearance of the Fiesta. The new surface does not require much attention. Continuous washing and removal of stone impact marks, asphalt stains and insect residues are sufficient. Caring for the paintwork should be started immediately after washing the car. The sun, rain, salt on the roads, dirt and other negative environmental influences are doing their dirty work, so the paintwork constantly requires thorough cleaning.

Paint care product

Which vehicle to choose depends on the condition of your car. A new, well-preserved surface with a fairly soft polish. It evens out small irregularities in the paintwork resulting from bad weather and mechanical stress. In addition, modern polishes contain wax components that preserve the paintwork. For a new coating, the use of a strong cleaning agent leads to its damage - for an old one, which has many cracks, it is just right, since the result of its use will be brilliant.

Thorough paint care

First of all, the cleaning agent acts as a polish, its formulation contains relatively large particles of abrasive that removes stubborn dirt. Before you decide to repaint your time-worn car, try using a quality cleaner. As a rule, cleaning agents do not contain preservatives. Therefore, the prepared (cleaned) paintwork is coated with automotive wax in the second stage.

The harmful effects of the sun on paintwork

For new or reconditioned paintwork, it is recommended to preserve it two to three times a year. It maintains the shine and optimizes the protection of the coating for a long time. Most polishes and cleaners in bright sunlight are very corrosive to paintwork. Therefore, it is better to carry out work in the shade or in the garage, there chemical compounds have no chance of damaging the paintwork of your Fiesta.

SEQUENCE OF WORKS

1. Thoroughly wash and dry the vehicle.

2. In a relatively unobtrusive place, first check how the paintwork interacts with the polish.

Apply only a thin layer of the product, as too much cleaner will sand off more paint than needed. Better to clean the surface in several steps.

3. Apply polish or cleaner with cotton and synthetic wool (fist-sized swabs). Rub in the product in a circular motion with light pressure. Always treat only a small area.

4. Already after a short time of action, a dry white layer of the product forms, which is polished in a circular motion. If the paintwork is badly damaged, pay attention to the edges. Do not work on one spot for too long, otherwise you will sand the coating down to the primer.

5. Change or turn the cotton ball regularly, as the surface is clogged with polish or detergent particles.

6. At the end of the work, wipe the surface with a clean cotton rag to remove any remaining polish and cotton fibers.

Preservation of paintwork

1. Apply automotive wax to the cotton wool. The dimensions of the surface to be treated depend on the agent used.

Rice. 3.12. Applying the preservative with a cotton swab in a circular motion with light pressure on the surface area of ​​0.5 m 2

2. Apply the preservative with light pressure in a circular motion: even application increases the gloss of the car paintwork (fig. 3.12)

WARNING

Preservatives have a high solvent content, therefore ensure adequate ventilation in confined spaces.

Rice. 3.13. Rubbing a white layer of preservative with a cotton swab until a perfect shine is obtained

To make the coating transparent and without drips, rub the white layer of the product until it shines with large cotton swabs. When the polishing movement becomes difficult, turn or change the cotton swab (fig. 3.13).

3. The cotton wool should slide easily with low resistance on the surface. Therefore, turn the cotton swab more often and change it in time.

4. If streaks or cloudy spots remain on the coating after applying the preservative, the cause is contaminated paint particles from previous polishing. Treat these places with this polishing paste again.

Rice. 3.14. Re-processing the polished surface with a cotton rag to remove the layer of preservative and cotton wool

Finally, polish the surface again with a cotton rag. This will remove the remaining layer of preservative and, of course, cotton wool fibers (Fig. 3.14).

Rice. 3.15. Soft polishing of paintwork

If, when applied to a paintwork surface, the preservative rolls into droplets, the surface tension of the coating is too high. In this case, before preservation, try to treat this place with a soft polish (Fig. 3.15).